3d Exploration

1. “The Drape & Contour Project” Draping on the stand

2. Example of draping using the bias. Pinning bias grain to centre front Slashing into the waist line to create diamond shapes

3. Showing that by using one piece of fabric on the bias you can drape it around the stand to create a dress. Drafting a diamond shape insert for the back. Folding the fabric to make a bust dart.

4. Example of draping on the stand by using a flat piece of calico. This will show you how to mark up draped fabric and transfer it to a paper pattern.

5. Using the bias grain on the cf Pleating the calico to create volume at the neck line.

6. Matching up the straight grain line when pleating. Creating shoulder darts.

7. Looking at the proportion, deciding what area to focus on.

8. marking on a seam line to help with visualizing how it would look before cutting it.

9. Folding the fabric to make a bust dart Pinning & marking on the side seam

10. Marking on the armhole Draw around the armhole on the stand then drop down to the required depth.

11. Creating a new seam Slash the fabric to make it lie flat against the stand, once marked cut away the excess fabric

12. Mark on important points centre back, neck line, waist line.

13. Taping on extra calico to get more length and achieving the right line

14. Cutting away the armhole

15. Marking on shoulder darts Finishing point open up dart & mark on wrong side shoulder point

16. Marking on the notches

17. Taking off stand, checking all information is marked on

18. Press flat and transfer to paper, this will be your master pattern.

19. Mark on all information

20. Draft off a pattern from the master. Straighten off seams, adding extra paper if needed.

21. Fold pleats and check the finishing line is straightened off.

22. Add on seam allowance and cut away excess paper.

23. Check that seams & notches match up

24. Make sure that all changes are traced back onto the master pattern

25. Cut out your 1st toile in calico, marking on all information including cf & cb points.

26. Make up toile, press and pin to stand

27. Make alterations by pinning out excess to create the fit you want. Draw on new seam lines if required, e.g. Yolk at the back.

28. Take out excess by slashing and taping,mark on all changes to calico as reference.

29. Use a tape measure to be accurate when marking on changes e.g. measuring distance to square off front.

30. Take toile off stand and press flat.

31. Make alterations to pattern by laying paper over toile and drawing on new lines.

32. Taking out excess from a curveDraw a straight line from edge of slash point to the far end and pivot to take out excess. Add on extra to the seam allowance to make a continuous line. Or deciding if a new seam would be more appropriate.

33. Copying what you have done on the toile and translating this to paper. Slashing the paper at the same point as the calico.

34. Draft all alterations back on to the master pattern. Mark new lines with a different colour so they stand out.

35. Don’t rub any lines out, all information must be kept on master pattern.

36. Draft off pattern number 2. Changing the grain line. New pattern piece.

37. Make up 2nd toile & pin to stand Making both sides of the toile rather than one half. This will help me to visualize it as a garment.

38. Looking closely at the changes made and the silhouette created.

39. More alterations……….. Look at the proportion of the garment. Make decisions as to if it is what you want to achieve.