2. Wood Joints
Advantages
• − Give strength
• − Long lasting
• − Decorative
• − Resist forces well
Disadvantages
• − Time-consuming
• − Require skill – difficult to make
• − Special tools needed
3. Butt Joint
• One of the most simple joints,
this is simply putting the ends
of two pieces together.
• It joins the end grain of one
piece to the long grain of
another and the two pieces
are glued together.
• These joints typically only use
glue to hold the
together, so they are
pieces
fairly
weak and can be broken just
using your hands.
4. Biscuit Joint
• A reinforced version of the
butt joint.
• This joint uses a “biscuit” to
connect the two pieces.
• A biscuit is an oval-shaped
piece usually made with
compressed wood and is
placed in corresponding
mortises.
• Glue is then used to secure
the pieces
5. Bridle Joint
• This joint is similar to a mortise
and tenon, but with more open
holes in the wood.
• The end of one piece of wood
is cut into a tenon shape and
the other piece of wood is cut
into a mortise, so that the two
pieces that can be fitted
together to form a corner.
• This joint can be used to create
legs or to help create frame
pieces when it’s being shaped.
• This is a strong joint with good
durability.
6. Dado (Joinery)
• A dado is nothing more than
a square-grooved slot on
one board where another
board will fit.
• Similar to tongue and groove
joinery
• This is a commonly-used
wood joint for connecting
plywood.
7. Dovetail Joint
• A form of box joint where
the fingers are locked
together by diagonal cuts.
• The strongest method for
joining two pieces of wood
with the grain going in the
same direction.
8. Finger Joint
• Similar to the dovetail joint
• The finger joint also has a
series of pins along an edge
that are interlocked together
using glue.
• The difference is that the
finger joint pins are straight
instead of angled.
• This joint isn’t as strong as
the dovetail, but it is fairly
easy to make.
9. Lap Wood Joint
• The lap wood joint combines
two pieces of wood by
cutting away half the
thickness of the pieces.
• This joint is typically used
when the two pieces have
the same thickness.
• The portion of
away will fit
wood cut
into the
corresponding cutout on the
other piece.
10. Mortise and
Tenon
• One of the strongest
• The mortise and tenon is
used to attach two pieces of
wood at a 90-degree angle.
• The mortise part of the joint
is a hole or cavity cut into
one piece of wood.
• The tenon is typically around
⅓ the thickness of the piece
of wood.
11. Pocket Hole
• A strong joint that uses a
pocket hole that is cut into
one piece of
another pilot
wood
hole
with
that
allows a screw to be driven
into the adjoining piece of
wood.
12. Rabbet Joint
• The rabbet joint is simple and
straightforward.
• A cut is made into the end of a
piece of wood to create a
“step.”
• This joint is in a variety of
woodworking projects.
13. Tongue and
Groove
• Joining two boards square to
one another along a long
edge, one can simply butt the
joint together and hold it with
fasteners.
• The tongue and groove joint is
much stronger
• Provides
surface
more adjoining
areas, which is
particularly useful.
14. MITERED
BUTTJOINT
• A mitered butt joint is similar in strength to a
basic butt joint but slightly more complex and
visually pleasing. This joint consists of angled
boards joined at the ends to form a compound
angle, such as two boards cut at 45 degrees
joined to form a 90-degree angle.
• While this joint is weak like a basic butt joint,
the miters hide the end grain of both boards,
which is of visual value. Because of its ability
to hide the end grain and yield a more
attractive appearance, mitered butt joints are
often seen in finished work such as joining
trim pieces in a corner.
15. SLIDING
DOVETAIL
• A sliding dovetail can be thought of
as a combination between a dovetail
and a dado joint. This joint features a
three-sided channel much like a dado
with a tapered shape like a dovetail.
This design offers immensely more
strength and locking qualities over a
standard dado and can be used
similarly.
