1. Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. c. 1870 - 1900 THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND THE NINETIES C H A P T E R F O U R T E E N Check for updates on the web now!

2. From 1870 to 1890 was named after the bustle , the predominant feature of women’s dresses. The Bustle Period

4. At the same time, the influx of immigrants provided workers and consumers for the clothing industry.

5. Department stores and mail order catalogs provided new ways of selling clothing.

7. An alternative for underwear became available, the combination, which combined drawers and chemise into one garment.

8. The new element was the bustle, a structure to support a skirt with a full back. Visit Farthingales for a discussion on bustle shape 1869 -1875 1873 1876 1886

9. In the twenty years that bustles were in fashion, three different shapes of bustles were worn.

10. The earliest bustles, c. 1870-1878, created by manipulating the full skirt in a waterfall-like effect, often with a train.

11. Called a sheath or cuirass bodice, the second bustle type, c. 1878-1883, dropped fullness to below the back of the knees.

12. The final bustle type, c. 1883 – 1890, was rigid and shelf-like and rarely had a train. Click image to Enlarge X

13. With the fullness concentrated at the back, outdoor garments had to be cut to accommodate the skirt.

14. About 1990 the bustle lost its prominence, the only reminder was a small group of pleats at the back of the skirt. The Nineties

15. As back fullness diminished sleeves grew larger, skirts more circular and an hour-glass shape silhouette came into fashion. Click image to rotate 360°

16. Even two piece “tailor-made” suits for women had the popular leg-of-mutton sleeves.

17. Now the outdoor garments had to accommodate the large sleeves.

18. Women began working in factories and offices in ever larger numbers.

19. The availability of ready-made blouses called shirtwaists made a shirtwaist and skirt the ideal dress for work.

20. Throughout the 19 th Century women had begun to take part in more sports. A craze for bicycling in the 1890’s contributed to the return of bloomers for women.

21. The Aesthetic Movement in the arts encouraged a rejection of the current bustle fashions in favor of what its proponents called a “Medieval” look.

22. Art Nouveau design motifs appeared in jewelry, as patterns in textiles, and were reflected in the s-shape curves of garments at the turn of the Century…

23. Hair and Headdress c. 1880’s c. 1890’s c. 1880’s c. 1870’s c. 1899 - 1900 French Floral Toque c.1890 Gray Velvet Toque 1880's Black Straw Bonnet

24. Footwear

25. Additional Accessories Gloves Capelet Mourning Brooch Parasol Watch Glasses Fan

26. While the rapid changes in women’s clothing styles were readily apparent, changes in men’s clothing from 1870 to 1900 were more subtle.

27. Men, too could wear combinations or union suits.

28. Men could choose from more types of jackets. Generally the type of jacket worn was related to the formality of the occasion.

29. An innovation in evening wear was the tuxedo, made with a sack jacket and first worn in the 1880’s.

30. For golf and other sports activities, knickers were worn.

31. The basic styles, such as the Chesterfield and frock coats, changed little, but lengths varied. More exotic styles included the Inverness and the Ulster .

32. Hair and Headdress Derby Top Hats Fedora Straw Boater

33. Footwear Oxfords Tennis Shoes Balmorals Congress Boot Bicycle balmorals

34. Additional Accessories Collars Ties and Ascots Gloves Pince Nez Walking Sticks

35. Bustles appeared in the dresses of young girls as well as adult women.

36. Little boys still wore skirts, then graduated to any of several types of suits.

37. The popularity of a children’s book, Little Lord Fauntleroy, led mothers to dress their sons in costumes similar to those of the book’s hero.

38. Throughout Victoria’s reign emphasis on propriety and custom was strong. Emphasis on a strict code for mourning dress was one example. As the century ended, Victoria’s reign was coming to end, and so were the strict customs that regulated the mourning dress that would be put on at her death.

39. For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http:// www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http:// www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http:// www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org /collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http:// char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http:// digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html 19th Century Shoes http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm

40. For Further Study Veblen’s Theory Of The Leisure Classes http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/pembfun/vebleis7.html Bustles http://www.fashion-era.com/bustles.htm#Bustles Art Nouveau http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/a/artnouveau.html http://www.artelino.com/articles/art_nouveau.asp Aesthetic Dress http://www.gbacg.org/aesthetic_dress_inspirations.htm http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style08a/objects/object5_1.html Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 . New York: Theater Arts Books. Waugh, N. 1994. The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930 . New York: Theater Arts Books.

41. Image Credits Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ]. Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ]. Various images, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ]. Various dress images, courtesy of [ www.antique-fashion.com ]. Image of 1890's Butterick Pattern. Ladies' nine gored flare skirt, in round, clearing or shorter length, courtesy of, [ http:// www.vintagemartini.com ]. Various Hat Images, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ]. Image of Wolf Cutting Equipment, courtesy of [ http:// www.moah.org/exhibits/archives/stitches/tech.html ]. Image of Woman with bustle, by Hall, [ http:// mywebpages.comcast.net/saretzky ]. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ]. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library;