3. Marker and Marker planning
Marker:
• It is a long thin paper which contains all
necessary pattern pieces for different
sizes for a particular style of garments
The length also depends on-
• Number of garments to be produced from
a spread lay
• Length of cutting table
• Production planning etc.
Purpose of Marker Making
• For optimum utilization of fabric
• Reduction of fabric wastage
• Speeding up the production process
• Get maximum number of pattern pieces from one lay of fabric
4. Spreading
• Spreading – The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables
in preparation for cutting each piece of garment
• Types of Fabric spreading:
i. Flat Spreading
ii. Stepped Spreading
• Precautions needed while spreading fabric:
i. Alignment of plies
ii. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws
iii. Correct ply direction
iv. Correct ply tension
v. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease
7. Manual Spreading Machines
Advantages:
• Easy to operate
• Low investment
• Suitable for small scale garment industries
Limitations:
• Speed limitation
• Skilled labor required to operate
• Chances of improper selvedge alignment
• Small roll size
Operating procedure:
• Fabric is carefully pulled out with help of hands
• Then, fabric is spread and cut to appropriate
requirements
• Process is continued to form layers
8. Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines
Operating Procedure:
• Same as Manual Spreader
• Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be
controlled by buttons
Advantages:
• Fast and economical
• Proper selvedge alignment
• Ease to operate with electronic clutch
Limitations:
• Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual
• Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses
• Small roll size
9. Fully Automatic Spreading Machines
• Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls
• Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back
lay
• Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
• Automatic cutting device at the end of a run
• Automatic tensioning device to control fabric
tension
• Automatic lay height sensing elevator
• Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying
• Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min
Features:
10. Cutting
• Cutting – It is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric
for making garments
• Types of Fabric cutting machines:
i. Manual, e.g. scissors, cutters
ii. Semi-automatic, e.g. Round knife cutter, band knife cutter, etc.
iii. Fully computerized, e.g. Laser, water jet, etc.
• Precautions needed while spreading fabric:
i. Safety first, gloves, eye covers, clothing etc.
ii. Stability of fabric layers
iii. Care of cutting blades and machine
iv. Selecting correct type of cutting equipment for a cut
v. Precautions for heating of blades
11. Scissors
Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies
Advantages:
• Almost all types of cloths are cut by scissors
• Very cheap
Limitations and disadvantages:
• Cannot be used for mass production
• Cannot cut more than 2-3 piles of fabrics
• Low speed
• Impossible to work continuously for long hours
Manual Cutting Equipment
Laser guided scissors
Electric Scissors
Decorative Edge scissors
12. Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment
Advantages
• Comparatively cheap
• Production speed is very good
• Rough work can be easily done by hands
Disadvantages
• Faulty knife could damage fabric layer
• Knife required to change
• Weight of the motor creates knife deflection
which may be creates faulty pieces
Straight knife Round knife Band knife Notcher machine
13. Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment
Advantages
• Cutting defects are less
• Less labor cost
• Suitable for very large scale of production
• No need of marker paper
Disadvantages
• Very expensive machines
• Very high on maintenance
• Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric
(water-jet, laser)
• Not suitable for synthetic fabric(laser cutting)
Computerized cutting
machine
Laser cutting machine Water-jet fabric cutting Plasma cutting machine