"Natural Cosmetics: organic natural inspired by Nature" è il titolo della presentazione di Fabrizio Piva, amministratore delegato CCPB, durante il Convegno sul futuro della cosmesi bio di BioFach/Vivaness 2013

1. NATURAL COSMETICS: ORGANIC NATURAL
INSPIRED BY NATURE
Fabrizio Piva – CCPB srl Bologna - ITALY
Tel. 0039 051 6089811 e mail: fpiva@ccpb.it
NUERNBERG – BIOFACH – Shanghai Room – 15 February 2013

2. CCPB - SHORT INTRODUCTION
BOLOGNA1988
BOLOGNA 2004
ORGANIC CERTIFICATION IN COMPLIANCE WITH EC REG. 834/07.
ORGANIC CERTIFICATION IN COMPLIANCE WITH NOP, COR, JAS.
ORGANIC CERTIFICATION IN EQUIVALENCE WITH EC REG 834/07 FOR
CROATIA AND CHINA.
ORGANIC INSPECTION FOR BIOSUISSE, AB, SOIL ASSOCIATION, KRAV,
BIOSIEGEL, NATURLAND, ETC
COSMETIC AND NATURAL CERTIFICATION (CCPB STANDARD AND
NATRUE).
TEXTILE CERTIFICATION IN COMPLIANCE WITH GOTS AND OE.
PRODUCT AND PROCESS CERTIFICATION (IPM, GLOBALGAP, ISO
22005, QS AND EPD).

3. CCPB - SHORT INTRODUCTION
- WE CERTIFY, IN THE ORGANIC FOOD SECTOR, ABOUT 3,900 COMPANIES,
OF WHICH ABOUT 1,000 ARE PROCESSORS AND DISTRIBUTORS (25% OF THE
ITALIAN PROCESSING COMPANIES INVOLVED IN THE ORGANIC).
- IN THE OTHER CERTIFICATION SCHEMES, CHARACTERIZED BY THE
SUSTAINABILITY, WE CERTIFY ABOUT 500 COMPANIES.
- IN THE COSMETIC CERTIFICATION (ORGANIC AND NATURAL) WE CERTIFY
ABOUT 40 COMPANIES FOR 1.400 PRODUCTS
-
- WE STARTED 6 YEARS AGO WITH TWO OUR STANDARD (ORGANIC AND
NATURAL) AND 4 YEARS AGO WE ACHIEVED, AS FIRST ITALIAN CB, THE
RECOGNITION BY NATRUE.

4. WHY THE STANDARDS ?
- ABOUT 8 YEARS AGO WE’VE STARTED TO BUILD A STANDARD FOR THE
NATURAL AND ORGANIC COSMETICS AS A REFLECTION OF SECTOR AND OF
CONSUMER DEMAND.
- THE CONSUMER WANTS TO FIND A COSMETIC CONCEPTUALLY SIMILAR TO AN
ORGANIC FOOD.
- IN THAT PERIOD THERE WERE SOME CB STANDARDS AND THERE WAS AN
INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THE OBJECTIVE TO HARMONIZE SOME
STANDARD. BUT THAT EXPERIENCE WAS CLOSED.
- THEN WE CREATED AN EXPERT GROUP AND WE STARTED TO DISCUSS AND
REFLECT IN ORDER TO GET TO THE PREDISPOSITION OF TWO STANDARDS
WITH TWO SPECIFIC LOGOS.
- THE CHALLENGE TO CREATE A BRIDGE BETWEEN THE COSMETIC SECTOR
AND THE NATURE (AGRICULTURE OR WILD COLLECTION) TROUGH THE GREEN
CHEMISTRY.

5. WHY THE STANDARDS?
IT IS TWO COSMETIC CLASSIC CERTIFICATION STANDARDS WITH
- MINIMAL REQUIREMENTS ABOUT THE PROCESS;
- MINIMAL CONTENT OF NATURAL AND DERIVED NATURAL INGREDIENTS (95%)
INCLUDED THE ADDED WATER;
- DEFINITION OF THE NATURAL AND NEARLY NATURAL CONCEPT;
- POSITIVE LIST OF THE PHISICAL AND CHEMICAL PROCESSES ADMITTED IN
ORDER TO CONSIDERATE THE INGREDIENTS NEARLY NATURAL OR OF
NATURAL ORIGIN;
- POSITIVE LIST OF THE ADMITTED PRESERVATIVES AND SINTHETIC ADDITIVES;
- MINIMAL PERCENTAGE OF ORGANIC INGREDIENTS ON THE TOTAL OF THE
NATURAL INGREDIENTS (95% FOR ORGANIC AND 70% FOR “PRODUCT WITH
ORGANIC INGREDIENTS);
- MINIMAL ORGANIC INGREDIENTS PERCENTAGE OF THE TOTAL INGREDINETS;
- MINIMAL REQUIREMENTS FOR THE LABELLING OF THE CERTIFIED PRODUCTS
FOR THE TRANSPARENCY TO THE MARKET AND CONSUMER (NAME OF THE CB,
REFERENCE TO STANDARD, CERTIFICATION CODE FOR EACH CERTIFIED
PRODUCT, INDICATION WITH AN ASTERISK OR ANALOGUE OF ANY ORGANIC
INGREDIENT AND STATEMENT OF THE TOTAL % OF ORGANIC INGREDIENTS.

6. TOO MANY STANDARDS ?
- EVERY CB IN EACH COUNTRY HAS SET UP HIS STANDARD WITH DIFFERENT
OR SIMILAR CONCEPT, BUT IN ANY CASE DIFFERENT RULES, DIFFERENT
LOGOS, DIFFERENT LABELING AND DIFFERENT REQUIREMENTS;
- THIS HAS LED TO THE “BABEL OF LANGUAGES” WITH BARRIERS AND
DIFFICULTIES REGARDING THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SECTOR;
- FOR THESE REASONS, 4 YEARS AGO WE’VE DECIDED TO ASK THE
RECOGNITION TO NATRUE; IN MY OPINION THE ONLY ONE INTERNATIONAL
STANDARD WITH ITS LOGO. AN EXPERIENCE THAT COMES DIRECTLY FROM
THE EXPERIENCE OF THE PRODUCTION SYSTEM AND NOT FROM THE CB’s;
- FURTHERMORE, THIS STANDARD IS OPEN. IT’S POSSIBLE TO CERTIFY IN
COMPLIANCHE WITH IT AND IN THE SAME TIME THE CB CAN CERTIFY ALSO
ACCORDING TO OTHER COSMETIC STANDARDS.

7. TOO MANY STANDARDS ? TOO MANY DIFFICULTIES
- THE PRESENCE OF TOO MANY STANDARDS HAS CREATED BARRIERS TO
THE MARKET AND TO THE EXCHANGE OF THE INGREDIENTS OR RAW
MATERIALS. SOME COMPANIES, TO THE PRESENCE OF THESE DIFFICULTIES
HAVE NOT INVESTED ON THE FIELD OF THE ORGANIC SECTOR;
- THE EXISTING STANDARDS ARE VOLOUNTEERS AND SOME COMPANIES
HAVE DECIDED TO SELL ORGANIC/NATURAL PRODUCTS WITHOUT THE
CERTIFICATION. BOTH SMALL AND GREAT ENTERPRISES, BUT IN PARTICULAR
SOME GREAT COMPANIES THAT HAVE A RECOGNIZED AND CREDIBLE NAME
AND REPUTATION WITHOUT A CERTIFICATION LOGO;
- IN MANY CASES THE PRODUCTION SYSTEM HAS NOT INVOLVED IN THE
IMPLEMENTATION OF THE STANDARDS AND THIS WORK HAS BEEN DONE
ONLY BY THE CB’s;
- THIS SITUATION WITH TOO MANY STANDARDS HAS CREATED A LOT OF
CONFUSION ON THE MARKET AND AT THE LEVEL OF THE CONSUMER
BECAUSE WE CALL THE COSMETIC “ORGANIC” IN THE PRESENCE OF EACH
OTHER STANDARD VERY DIVERSIFIED;
- IN SOME CASES THE LEVEL OF THE STANDARD IS VERY “LOW” AND IT IS
POSSIBLE TO FIND IN A FORMULA THE 0,001% OF ORGANIC INGREDIENTS.

8. CONCLUSIONS AND PERSPECTIVES
- THE MARKET IS ICREASING AND WANTS MORE TRANSPARENCY AND
CLARITY;
- IF WE WANT TO CREATE THE CONDITIONS FOR A GREATER CLARITY WE’LL
HAVE TO DEVELOP A PUBLIC STANDARD, AT THE EUROPEAN LEVEL,
WHERE THE THRESHOLD, BEYOND WHICH IS POSSIBLE TO CALL THE
PRODUCT ORGANIC, IS THE SAME FOR ALL;
- THE STANDARD SHOULD ADDRESS ALL STAGES OF COSMETIC’S
PRODUCTION, INCLUDED THE LABELLING;
- IT COULD BE AID A LOGO LINKED TO THE ORGANIC LEGISLATION;
- THE CERTIFICATION ACTIVITY MUST AFFECT THE WHOLE CHAIN, ALSO THE
SUPPLIERS OF THE RAW MATERIALS OR “FIRST” INGREDIENTS; NOW IN
MANY CASES THE ELIGIBILITY OF SOME INGREDIENTS IS DECIDED ONLY ON
THE BASIS OF THE ASSESSMENT DOCUMENTATION;
- THE CONTROL AND CERTIFICATION ACTIVITY MUST BE IN COMPLIANCE
WITH THE ISO 65 (NOW ISO 17065)

9. THANK YOU FOR THE
ATTENTION
NUERNBERG - BIOFACH – Shanghai Room - 15 FEBRUARY 2013