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Steps for the preservation of specimens (vertebrates) for scientific study
1. Euthanizing. Specimens should be euthanized undamaged and
relaxed.
2. Injection and slitting. Liquid preservatives introduced into the body
cavity, limbs and tail by hypodermic injection or through slits.
3. Fixing. While the specimens are still relaxed, they should be arranged
in trays in the proper position.
4. Labeling. Each specimen should be accompanied by certain data,
either attached directly or entered in a notebook with a number
corresponding to a numbered tag tied to the specimen.
5. Storage. After specimens have been fixed in the proper position, they
should be stored in liquid preservative for at least several days, after
which they may be allowed to remain in the liquid, or transferred to
plastic bags for temporary storage.
Euthanizing:
•Reptiles require different euthanizing techniques than amphibians.
•Reptiles of any size are best euthanized by hypodermic injection with
dilute Pentobarbital Sodium.
•Its commercial name is "Nembutal" and it is sold at some drugstores for
veterinary use at a strength of one gram per cc. There are two types of
Nembutal, a clear, thin liquid, and a dark brown, syrupy liquid (elixir). The
clear type is preferable.
•Nembutal must be diluted with water before using.
•Dilutions should be one part Nembutal to nine parts water.
•Small snakes and lizards require only a few drops of this solution; large
lizards and snakes (over two or three feet long), about one cc. or more.
•Injection should be made either into or near the heart for rapid action.
•Reptiles can also be killed by immersion in warm water (110°F)
•Injection of preservative directly into the heart may be used as an
alternative method of euthanizing reptiles, but is generally less satisfactory
than the above methods because death is slower and specimens often
become contorted.
•Method of euthanizing amphibians is by Chlorobutanol (Hydrous)
•About 10% solution of ethyl alcohol is also an effective killing agent
Preserving Solutions
Formalin:
•Formalin should be used for injecting and fixing specimens.
•Formalin is the commercial name of a solution of formaldehyde gas (CH20) in water.
•It is available at drugstores and chemical supply houses in the United States (38% to 40%).
•Latin American countries, formalin under the name "Formol" or "Formolina".
•Formalin must be diluted with water before it is used as a preservative.
•A strength of 10% formalin is best for most purposes.
•IOriginal strength is 40% mixed at a ratio of nine parts water to one part formalin.
The advantages of formalin over other preservatives are:
•inexpensive,
•available
•small bulk of concentrated stock solution may be diluted as needed
•specimens almost never decay in it.
Its principal disadvantages are:
•it has a very irritating odor,
•it is very poisonous and may cause skin irritation or rash,
•it has a tendency to make specimens become brittle if the solution is too strong
•fade out certain colors rapidly
•must be stored in rustproof containers.
Alcohol.
•It is usually sold at a strength of 95%.
•For injection and fixing it should be used at full strength.
•For storage of reptiles it should be used in the proportion of 3:1 alcohol to
water.
•Alcohol stored in open containers loses its strength rapidly due to
evaporation.
•Strength may be tested with an alcoholometer.
•Specimens fixed in alcohol should be carefully watched for signs of rotting.
•Alcoholic beverages, shaving lotions and Bay Rum contain ethyl alcohol.
•Liquor which is 100 proof is only 50% ethyl alcohol.
•Preparation:
•If specimens are to be made permanently immune to decomposition,
•it is necessary that liquid preservative be introduced into the body cavity,
limbs and tail within as short a time
•This may be accomplished either by injection (with a hypodermic syringe) or
by making deep cuts with a sharp scalpel, razor blade or scissors.
•The most satisfactory way is by injection.
•Ten or twenty cc. syringe with a needle lock and several needles (gauges 18 to
26) will serve to inject most specimens.
Frogs and Toads:
•Injection should be made through the belly, directly into the
body cavity.
•If the body is puffed with air, it should be deflated by gently
squeezing with the fingers.
•Very small frogs require only a few drops of preservative; frogs
two or three inches long only a few cc.
•Introduce only enough preservative required to specimen look
natural it should not look bloated.
•It is not necessary to inject the legs of any but the largest
frogs.
•If equipment for injection is not available, a single slit may be
made in the abdomen, to one side of the midline.
•The slit should be deep enough to allow free access of the
preservative into the body cavity.
Salamanders.
•Most salamanders do not require
injection or slitting.
•If your specimens look "caved in" a
small amount of preservative may be
injected into the body cavity, or a
single slit made in the abdomen to
permit preservative.
Tadpoles.
•Tadpoles and small salamander larvae
should always be preserved in 10%
formalin, never in alcohol.
•Simply drop the tadpoles into formalin
while they are still alive.
•Be sure there is enough preservative to
cover them and avoid overcrowding.
•After 24 hours all the liquid should be
drained off and replaced with fresh
formalin.
•Lizards.
•Injection should be made through the belly directly in body
cavity.
•Care should be taken not to use too much, or the body will
become unnaturally distended.
•A series of slits should be made in the underside of the tail with
a sharp scalpel or razor blade.
•The slits should be from 1/8 to 1/4 inch long and about 1/4
inch apart, and should extend from the base of the tail to the
tip.
•Very large lizards must be injected or slit in the thicker portions
of the limbs and neck. If space does not permit preservation of
very large lizards whole, they may be skinned out, except for the
head. To skin a large lizard, make a cut down the belly from the
neck to the base of the tail. Work the skin loose from the body,
pulling the skin of the arms and legs inside out as far as the
wrists and ankles. Do not attempt to skin out the head, hands,
feet or tail.
•Snakes.
•Make a series of injections 1-2 inch through the belly into the body cavity.
•Begin just behind the head and continue the injections to the anus.
•If a syringe is not available, a series of slits must be made in the belly.
•For most snakes the slits should be about an inch apart and an inch long
•Very large snakes may be skinned out, leaving the head and tail attached. To
skin a snake make a single, long cut in the belly, just to one side of the
midline, beginning about an inch behind the head and continuing to about
an inch in front of the anus.
•Do not cut through the anal plate. Work the skin loose from the body, but
do not attempt to remove the skin from the head or tail.
•Sever the body an inch behind the head and an inch in front of the anus,
and (after recording the stomach contents, number of eggs, embryos, etc.)
discard the carcass.
•Put a strip of cloth on the inner side of the skin and roll it up, beginning at
the head. Tie the roll with a piece of string and put it directly into
preservative.
•Alligators and Crocodiles.
•Small individuals may be preserved
just as lizards.
•Larger individuals should be skinned
out with the head attached, rolled up
and placed directly into preservative.
•Turtles.
•Preservative should be injected into the
body cavity just in front of each of the four
limbs, between the carapace and plastron.
•Use a long needle and continue injections
until the head and limbs are forced out of
the shell.
•If a syringe is not available, make deep cuts
into the body cavity just in front of each leg.
•Limbs, neck and tail should be injected or
slit, as in large lizards.
•Labels and Records:
•Specimens for which there are no data are of little or no scientific value.
•Certain information.
•This information may either be printed on a label which is attached to the specimen
or may be recorded in a notebook.
•If a notebook is used the data should be identified by a number; a tag bearing the
same number should be attached to the specimen.
•The most important datum is the locality at which the collection was made.
•This should include the distance from and direction to the center or city limits (state
which) of the nearest city or town which can be easily found on a map.
•The name of the county and state, or of corresponding political units of foreign
countries, should be included. Altitude may be of extreme importance and, if not
readily ascertainable from maps of the area, it should be recorded. With the
availability of inexpensive Global Positioning System (GPS).
•This precise data is desired by those researchers engaged in mapping ranges of
amphibians and reptiles with GIS mapping programs.
•The date of collection.
•The month should be written out or a clear abbreviation used. Do not use numbers
separated by dashes, such as "8-5-56".
•The name of the collector should be recorded.
•Specimens should be injected (or slit)
and tagged as soon as possible after
they are dead and fixing should
immediately follow.
•Individuals may be placed close
together on the tray but should not
touch each other.
•The tray should be covered to prevent
evaporation. Most amphibians will
harden in a few hours, reptiles in 10 or
12 hours.
•Large lizards, frogs and turtles may
take a little longer, but the paper should
be checked at least twice a day to be
sure it is not drying out.
•Snakes.
•Small snakes may be coiled flat in the tray if
the coil does not exceed three and one half
inches in its outside diameter.
•The head should be inside. Larger snakes
should be coiled in a jar and covered with
preservative.
•If the snake has been injected it may be
coiled with the belly down, tail at the
bottom and head on top.
•If slits are used, it should be coiled with the
belly up, head on the bottom and tail on
top.
•Tall, narrow bottles should be avoided;
quart and pint sizes are best.
•Snakes too large to coil in a gallon jar
should be skinned.
•Lizards.
•Place the lizard belly down, with
arms, legs and tail extended.
•If the tail is very long it may be bent
around the side of the body.
•Limbless lizards may be coiled like
snakes
•Turtles.
•Most important in fixing turtles is
that the head and neck be extended
and the mouth propped open with a
bit of wood or cork.
•The limbs should also be extended if
possible.
•Salamanders.
•Belly down, arms, legs and tail
extended.
•A salamander tail will often twitch
back and forth long after the animal
seems to be dead.
•Ten or fifteen minutes after they
have been laid out check to be sure
the tail is still straight.
•Large specimens, 10 or more inches
in length, may be coiled like snakes.
•Frogs and Toads.
•Place the frog belly down, arms and legs
extended.
•The fingers and toes should be separated
and extended, especially if they are webbed.
•The inner margin of the forelimb from the
elbow to the tip of the fourth finger should
form a straight line.
•The sole of the foot may be up or down,
whichever seems most natural (down in tree
frogs and up in most other frogs and toads).
•Storage: After the specimens have been injected or slit, tagged, and fixed, they
should be put directly into preservative. If they are to be transferred later to plastic
bags for temporary storage or to be shipped they should first be allowed to remain
completely immersed in preservative for at least 48 hours if formalin is used, or a week
if alcohol is used.
•Specimens should be loosely packed and completely covered with liquid. Containers
must be periodically checked for evaporation and refilled if necessary. At the first sign
of decomposition the affected specimen should be removed and thrown away, or deep
cuts made into the body cavity and placed alone in a large container with plenty of
fresh preservative. A green spot on the abdomen of a snake or lizard indicates a rotten
gall bladder which should be cut out. Any specimen that floats in the preservative
contains air or other gases and is not properly preserved. It should be squeezed or slit
to permit the gases to escape and the preservative to enter.
•When traveling in the field, it is often impossible to carry along a large number of
glass jars for storage. If specimens are well preserved and have been immersed in
preservative for several days, it is safe to store them in plastic bags for a period of
several months. Plastic bags are inexpensive and sold in various sizes. Whirl-Pak Bags
are ideal for field collections, as they are made of heavy-duty polyethylene and are
leakproof when properly closed. Specimens should be wrapped loosely in cheesecloth.
An easy method is to cut a strip of cloth, lay it flat on a table and arrange the
specimens in a row on the cloth with an inch or two between them.
•Shipping:
•If your collection has been stored in plastic bags, simply fill up the
container in which the bags are stored with wads of cloth or cotton
so the bags will not knock about in transit, fasten the lid down tightly,
and put the container in a wooden or heavy cardboard box for
shipment.
•If plastic bags are not available, wrap the specimens loosely in
cheesecloth and pack them carefully in a water-tight metal or plastic
(polyethylene) container.
•If the bundles do not fill up the container, fill it up with wads of cloth
or cotton.
•Never use paper, leaves or wood chips. Pour in enough preservative
to soak the cloth.
•No free liquid is necessary if the specimens are well preserved. Small
bottles with tight screw caps containing tadpoles, salamander larvae
or other delicate specimens should be wrapped with cloth to prevent
breakage, and placed among the bundles of wrapped specimens
•Preservatives and Fixatives
•Formalin
•where its use will not harm the specimen,
is a better preservative than alcohol.
•It penetrates more rapidly and internal
organs remain in better condition.
Commercial formalin (40%) should be
diluted with ten volumes of water to a 4%
solution. 2% formalin with seawater is an
excellent quick preservative for small
specimens.
•Alcohol as used in zoology is generally 95% ethyl alcohol (white spirits)
which may be diluted with distilled water to strengths of 70% and 80%.
At least 70% is required for safe storage of material. Alcohol is a valuable
preservative for crustacean, polychaeta and echinoderms with
corrodible bristles or hard-parts. A teaspoonful of glycerin in a quart of
alcohol helps to preserve natural colors and to keep integuments
flexible. Alcohol in jars containing preserved specimens should be
changed at intervals—once or twice a year—and evaporation should be
guarded against. One of the most important fixatives for the general
collector of invertebrates is BOUIN'S FLUID, which is excellent for
general structural and histological work, and for preservation of animals
for dissection. Fixation time is at least 12 hours for a specimen of bulk,
correspondingly longer for larger material. There is not much danger of
over-fixing. Afterwards specimens should be washed in 70% alcohol, to
remove excess picric acid, and stored in 70-80% alcohol. Formula for
Bouin's: 75 parts saturated aqueous picric acid; 25 parts 40% formalin; 5
parts glacial acetic acid.
•Field Record Sheets
•During field work, the collector will use his/her note-book for “on the spot”
observations. On returning home, one should—even at some inconvenience—sort
over and roughly classify the specimens, discarding unwanted material at once.
Sketches and colour records must now be completed while the animals are still alive.
The field sheets should then be filled in, before exact details are forgotten. The
amount to be recorded will vary greatly from group to group, according to the amount
known, or to the collector's interest in the material. The sheets provide for ample
detail, but it is tedious to repeat exhaustive information on each sheet. If too much
detail is aimed at, the collector, after a day in the field, will probably not write up his
sheets at all. Each bottle or tube of specimens should be identified by a reference
number corresponding to the serial sheet number. Specimens are thus numbered
simply in order of collecting and writing up. An abbreviation for the name of the class
can be usefully added to the sheet below the serial number, e.g. (CTEN — GASTR —
CRUST —). The sheets may then be filed in serial order, and, if necessary, as the
collection grows, cross-indexed in taxonomic and ecological categories. Details
of locality, type of environment, ecological association should be specified, with date
and collector's name. Space is left for details of novelty or special interest, but with
well-investigated species, this will not necessarily be filled. Reference should be given
to any life drawing, colour record, slide or other preparation made from living
material. After identification the specific name can be added in the space provided,
together with a note referring to taxonomic or general literature. A brief summary of
diagnostic features can often be added with advantage.
•Storage of the Collection
•As the collection grows, the greatest need will be for an
orderly storage system, with facilities for quick reference
to any container, to filed field notes and any other
information.
•It may be desired to have the collection visible for
permanent display, and with mollusc shells or dried
material a set of flat cabinet drawers is best for storage.
•Most invertebrates, however, will be kept in bottles,
and sets of tubes or jars can be massed together in a
small space by placing them in deep cardboard boxes,
conspicuously labelled with serial box numbers, and
either the ecological to taxonomic classification of the
material contained, e.g., either low tide.
• Field record sheets should be kept in readily accessible
files, again either in ecological or taxonomic order.
•Containers
•A tidy-minded collector will probably prefer several uniform sizes of tubes
and jars. These pack more economically into limited space and are fairly
cheap in quantity. Jars should be wide-mouthed, and of clear glass, thick
enough to withstand knocks. Bakelite or other non-corrodable tops are
preferable to metal caps. Alternatively, wide mouthed bottles may be
stoppered with firm, good quality corks.
•Preserving jars with rubber washer lids are ideal for larger specimens,
while for the bulkiest material, metal drums of two or four gallons capacity
are useful. For normal use, jars of 6in. × 3in. and 4in. × 2in. are most
serviceable. Specimen tubes are most useful in the 4in. × lin. size. For
larger polychaetes, 6in. × 1in. tubes are available, while the smallest
material, such as minute shells and crustacea, can be put into 2in. × ½in. or
2in. × ¾in. phials. Small lengths of glass tubing, cut with a file and sealed
by heat, or with cotton plugs are often used for tiny shells, and small
rubber-stopper serum tubes are especially useful for delicate material.
Specimens as a rule may be put straight into the container, although soft-
bodied nudibranchs and coelenterates should be protected from distortion
by placing them on a layer of cotton wool.
•Labeling
•The bulk of the information about a specimen should be entered on
the record sheet. It is not usually convenient to
label material exhaustively in situ. Labels attached to the container
should include the habitat, locality and date, and the collector's
initial, with perhaps a condensation of any other information to
which it is desired to refer without turning up the field sheet. Most
important, there should be a reference number to the written field
record. Alternatively specimen labels can be placed in the
preservative within the container. They should then be written on
stiffish, non-absorbent white card, either in pencil (not “indelible”
pencil) or in indian ink. Ink labels should be allowed to dry, then
steeped for a few minutes in a 3% solution of acetic acid, which
effectively sets the ink and prevents “running” when placed in
preservative. An example of a completed label is shown. Note that
the accurate identification of the specimen is not important at this
stage. Often it may not be possible immediately; and the name will
have to be entered on the field sheet at a later date. Sometimes
identification by a specialist will be needed, while in a few cases the
collector may have the thrill of bringing home a yet undescribed
species.
•TREATMENT OF SPECIAL GROUPS
•COELENTERATES are difficult to preserve adequately. The pelagic SCYPHOZOA,
SIPHONOPHORA and CTENOPHORA are often singularly beautiful in form and colour.
The collector must be prepared for work in the field, with note-book and colour
sketches. Afterwards the best that can be done is preservation in 70% alcohol or 5%
formalin usually a poor best! Smaller hydrozoans such as Obelia and Sertularia are
easier to deal with, while the less well protected Hydra can be quickly fixed in
Bouin's warm, not hot. Among the sea-anemones, important taxonomic features are
the handsome colour patterns, arrangement of tentacles, and of mesenteries, and
microscopic structure of nematocysts. The first two features should be observed in
the expanded living animal; the last two require careful fixation, after narcotisation,
during which the epithelia should not be allowed to deteriorate.
•In the PLATYHELMINTHES (Flatworms) and NEMERTEA (Proboscis worms) final
identification often depends upon microscopic examination of sections. Careful
fixing is essential for critical study of internal structures. On collecting alive, a colour
record and accurate measurements should always be made, with a scale drawing
recording accurately any periodic changes of form. In planarians and nemerteans
lens details of eye arrangement are important. The best fixation is by pipetting warm
Bouin's Fluid over the animal, from tail forward, so as to cause a minimum of
contraction. Storage for several days in Bouin's will not harm the tissues. 70-80%
alcohol is useful for temporary storage, also as an alternative fixative. Animals may
be dehydrated, cleared and bulk-stained for internal study of whole mounts. For the
systematist's purposes, it is a good plan to bring a few specimens up to paraffin fairly
rapidly, orient and embed in blocks. Paraffin is, perhaps, the best long-term
preserving and storage medium of all.
•Identification
•Most zoologists will have a working familiarity with one or more
groups, and in many cases the collector himself will have specialist
knowledge of his material. A field zoologist can usefully aspire to an
acquaintance with a whole fauna as far as the family or generic
level. In practice, however, there will always remain a large number
of animals which must be sent to a specialist, usually a professional
zoologist, for identification. Sponges, amphipods, polychaetes, and
planktonic crustacea are likely to remain specialist's groups.
Taxonomists are busy people. This should be remembered in
sending specimens, which should be carefully sorted, separated as
far as possible into distinct forms, securely packed and sufficiently
stamped. Good specimens only should be sent; mutilated
fragments, except with rare species, are troublesome and of little
interest. The specialist will often be interested in the collector's field
observations; where necessary, send record sheets and colour
notes. Taxonomists are human, and will often covet specimens of
rarer material sent in. Show your appreciation by supplying
duplicates.
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Steps for the preservation of animals invertebrates and vertebrates

  • 1.
  • 2. Steps for the preservation of specimens (vertebrates) for scientific study 1. Euthanizing. Specimens should be euthanized undamaged and relaxed. 2. Injection and slitting. Liquid preservatives introduced into the body cavity, limbs and tail by hypodermic injection or through slits. 3. Fixing. While the specimens are still relaxed, they should be arranged in trays in the proper position. 4. Labeling. Each specimen should be accompanied by certain data, either attached directly or entered in a notebook with a number corresponding to a numbered tag tied to the specimen. 5. Storage. After specimens have been fixed in the proper position, they should be stored in liquid preservative for at least several days, after which they may be allowed to remain in the liquid, or transferred to plastic bags for temporary storage.
  • 3.
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • 6.
  • 7. Euthanizing: •Reptiles require different euthanizing techniques than amphibians. •Reptiles of any size are best euthanized by hypodermic injection with dilute Pentobarbital Sodium. •Its commercial name is "Nembutal" and it is sold at some drugstores for veterinary use at a strength of one gram per cc. There are two types of Nembutal, a clear, thin liquid, and a dark brown, syrupy liquid (elixir). The clear type is preferable. •Nembutal must be diluted with water before using. •Dilutions should be one part Nembutal to nine parts water. •Small snakes and lizards require only a few drops of this solution; large lizards and snakes (over two or three feet long), about one cc. or more. •Injection should be made either into or near the heart for rapid action. •Reptiles can also be killed by immersion in warm water (110°F) •Injection of preservative directly into the heart may be used as an alternative method of euthanizing reptiles, but is generally less satisfactory than the above methods because death is slower and specimens often become contorted. •Method of euthanizing amphibians is by Chlorobutanol (Hydrous) •About 10% solution of ethyl alcohol is also an effective killing agent
  • 8. Preserving Solutions Formalin: •Formalin should be used for injecting and fixing specimens. •Formalin is the commercial name of a solution of formaldehyde gas (CH20) in water. •It is available at drugstores and chemical supply houses in the United States (38% to 40%). •Latin American countries, formalin under the name "Formol" or "Formolina". •Formalin must be diluted with water before it is used as a preservative. •A strength of 10% formalin is best for most purposes. •IOriginal strength is 40% mixed at a ratio of nine parts water to one part formalin. The advantages of formalin over other preservatives are: •inexpensive, •available •small bulk of concentrated stock solution may be diluted as needed •specimens almost never decay in it. Its principal disadvantages are: •it has a very irritating odor, •it is very poisonous and may cause skin irritation or rash, •it has a tendency to make specimens become brittle if the solution is too strong •fade out certain colors rapidly •must be stored in rustproof containers.
  • 9. Alcohol. •It is usually sold at a strength of 95%. •For injection and fixing it should be used at full strength. •For storage of reptiles it should be used in the proportion of 3:1 alcohol to water. •Alcohol stored in open containers loses its strength rapidly due to evaporation. •Strength may be tested with an alcoholometer. •Specimens fixed in alcohol should be carefully watched for signs of rotting. •Alcoholic beverages, shaving lotions and Bay Rum contain ethyl alcohol. •Liquor which is 100 proof is only 50% ethyl alcohol. •Preparation: •If specimens are to be made permanently immune to decomposition, •it is necessary that liquid preservative be introduced into the body cavity, limbs and tail within as short a time •This may be accomplished either by injection (with a hypodermic syringe) or by making deep cuts with a sharp scalpel, razor blade or scissors. •The most satisfactory way is by injection. •Ten or twenty cc. syringe with a needle lock and several needles (gauges 18 to 26) will serve to inject most specimens.
  • 10. Frogs and Toads: •Injection should be made through the belly, directly into the body cavity. •If the body is puffed with air, it should be deflated by gently squeezing with the fingers. •Very small frogs require only a few drops of preservative; frogs two or three inches long only a few cc. •Introduce only enough preservative required to specimen look natural it should not look bloated. •It is not necessary to inject the legs of any but the largest frogs. •If equipment for injection is not available, a single slit may be made in the abdomen, to one side of the midline. •The slit should be deep enough to allow free access of the preservative into the body cavity.
  • 11.
  • 12. Salamanders. •Most salamanders do not require injection or slitting. •If your specimens look "caved in" a small amount of preservative may be injected into the body cavity, or a single slit made in the abdomen to permit preservative.
  • 13.
  • 14. Tadpoles. •Tadpoles and small salamander larvae should always be preserved in 10% formalin, never in alcohol. •Simply drop the tadpoles into formalin while they are still alive. •Be sure there is enough preservative to cover them and avoid overcrowding. •After 24 hours all the liquid should be drained off and replaced with fresh formalin.
  • 15.
  • 16. •Lizards. •Injection should be made through the belly directly in body cavity. •Care should be taken not to use too much, or the body will become unnaturally distended. •A series of slits should be made in the underside of the tail with a sharp scalpel or razor blade. •The slits should be from 1/8 to 1/4 inch long and about 1/4 inch apart, and should extend from the base of the tail to the tip. •Very large lizards must be injected or slit in the thicker portions of the limbs and neck. If space does not permit preservation of very large lizards whole, they may be skinned out, except for the head. To skin a large lizard, make a cut down the belly from the neck to the base of the tail. Work the skin loose from the body, pulling the skin of the arms and legs inside out as far as the wrists and ankles. Do not attempt to skin out the head, hands, feet or tail.
  • 17.
  • 18. •Snakes. •Make a series of injections 1-2 inch through the belly into the body cavity. •Begin just behind the head and continue the injections to the anus. •If a syringe is not available, a series of slits must be made in the belly. •For most snakes the slits should be about an inch apart and an inch long •Very large snakes may be skinned out, leaving the head and tail attached. To skin a snake make a single, long cut in the belly, just to one side of the midline, beginning about an inch behind the head and continuing to about an inch in front of the anus. •Do not cut through the anal plate. Work the skin loose from the body, but do not attempt to remove the skin from the head or tail. •Sever the body an inch behind the head and an inch in front of the anus, and (after recording the stomach contents, number of eggs, embryos, etc.) discard the carcass. •Put a strip of cloth on the inner side of the skin and roll it up, beginning at the head. Tie the roll with a piece of string and put it directly into preservative.
  • 19.
  • 20. •Alligators and Crocodiles. •Small individuals may be preserved just as lizards. •Larger individuals should be skinned out with the head attached, rolled up and placed directly into preservative.
  • 21.
  • 22. •Turtles. •Preservative should be injected into the body cavity just in front of each of the four limbs, between the carapace and plastron. •Use a long needle and continue injections until the head and limbs are forced out of the shell. •If a syringe is not available, make deep cuts into the body cavity just in front of each leg. •Limbs, neck and tail should be injected or slit, as in large lizards.
  • 23.
  • 24. •Labels and Records: •Specimens for which there are no data are of little or no scientific value. •Certain information. •This information may either be printed on a label which is attached to the specimen or may be recorded in a notebook. •If a notebook is used the data should be identified by a number; a tag bearing the same number should be attached to the specimen. •The most important datum is the locality at which the collection was made. •This should include the distance from and direction to the center or city limits (state which) of the nearest city or town which can be easily found on a map. •The name of the county and state, or of corresponding political units of foreign countries, should be included. Altitude may be of extreme importance and, if not readily ascertainable from maps of the area, it should be recorded. With the availability of inexpensive Global Positioning System (GPS). •This precise data is desired by those researchers engaged in mapping ranges of amphibians and reptiles with GIS mapping programs. •The date of collection. •The month should be written out or a clear abbreviation used. Do not use numbers separated by dashes, such as "8-5-56". •The name of the collector should be recorded.
  • 25.
  • 26.
  • 27. •Specimens should be injected (or slit) and tagged as soon as possible after they are dead and fixing should immediately follow. •Individuals may be placed close together on the tray but should not touch each other. •The tray should be covered to prevent evaporation. Most amphibians will harden in a few hours, reptiles in 10 or 12 hours. •Large lizards, frogs and turtles may take a little longer, but the paper should be checked at least twice a day to be sure it is not drying out.
  • 28. •Snakes. •Small snakes may be coiled flat in the tray if the coil does not exceed three and one half inches in its outside diameter. •The head should be inside. Larger snakes should be coiled in a jar and covered with preservative. •If the snake has been injected it may be coiled with the belly down, tail at the bottom and head on top. •If slits are used, it should be coiled with the belly up, head on the bottom and tail on top. •Tall, narrow bottles should be avoided; quart and pint sizes are best. •Snakes too large to coil in a gallon jar should be skinned.
  • 29. •Lizards. •Place the lizard belly down, with arms, legs and tail extended. •If the tail is very long it may be bent around the side of the body. •Limbless lizards may be coiled like snakes
  • 30. •Turtles. •Most important in fixing turtles is that the head and neck be extended and the mouth propped open with a bit of wood or cork. •The limbs should also be extended if possible.
  • 31. •Salamanders. •Belly down, arms, legs and tail extended. •A salamander tail will often twitch back and forth long after the animal seems to be dead. •Ten or fifteen minutes after they have been laid out check to be sure the tail is still straight. •Large specimens, 10 or more inches in length, may be coiled like snakes.
  • 32. •Frogs and Toads. •Place the frog belly down, arms and legs extended. •The fingers and toes should be separated and extended, especially if they are webbed. •The inner margin of the forelimb from the elbow to the tip of the fourth finger should form a straight line. •The sole of the foot may be up or down, whichever seems most natural (down in tree frogs and up in most other frogs and toads).
  • 33. •Storage: After the specimens have been injected or slit, tagged, and fixed, they should be put directly into preservative. If they are to be transferred later to plastic bags for temporary storage or to be shipped they should first be allowed to remain completely immersed in preservative for at least 48 hours if formalin is used, or a week if alcohol is used. •Specimens should be loosely packed and completely covered with liquid. Containers must be periodically checked for evaporation and refilled if necessary. At the first sign of decomposition the affected specimen should be removed and thrown away, or deep cuts made into the body cavity and placed alone in a large container with plenty of fresh preservative. A green spot on the abdomen of a snake or lizard indicates a rotten gall bladder which should be cut out. Any specimen that floats in the preservative contains air or other gases and is not properly preserved. It should be squeezed or slit to permit the gases to escape and the preservative to enter. •When traveling in the field, it is often impossible to carry along a large number of glass jars for storage. If specimens are well preserved and have been immersed in preservative for several days, it is safe to store them in plastic bags for a period of several months. Plastic bags are inexpensive and sold in various sizes. Whirl-Pak Bags are ideal for field collections, as they are made of heavy-duty polyethylene and are leakproof when properly closed. Specimens should be wrapped loosely in cheesecloth. An easy method is to cut a strip of cloth, lay it flat on a table and arrange the specimens in a row on the cloth with an inch or two between them.
  • 34.
  • 35. •Shipping: •If your collection has been stored in plastic bags, simply fill up the container in which the bags are stored with wads of cloth or cotton so the bags will not knock about in transit, fasten the lid down tightly, and put the container in a wooden or heavy cardboard box for shipment. •If plastic bags are not available, wrap the specimens loosely in cheesecloth and pack them carefully in a water-tight metal or plastic (polyethylene) container. •If the bundles do not fill up the container, fill it up with wads of cloth or cotton. •Never use paper, leaves or wood chips. Pour in enough preservative to soak the cloth. •No free liquid is necessary if the specimens are well preserved. Small bottles with tight screw caps containing tadpoles, salamander larvae or other delicate specimens should be wrapped with cloth to prevent breakage, and placed among the bundles of wrapped specimens
  • 36.
  • 37. •Preservatives and Fixatives •Formalin •where its use will not harm the specimen, is a better preservative than alcohol. •It penetrates more rapidly and internal organs remain in better condition. Commercial formalin (40%) should be diluted with ten volumes of water to a 4% solution. 2% formalin with seawater is an excellent quick preservative for small specimens.
  • 38. •Alcohol as used in zoology is generally 95% ethyl alcohol (white spirits) which may be diluted with distilled water to strengths of 70% and 80%. At least 70% is required for safe storage of material. Alcohol is a valuable preservative for crustacean, polychaeta and echinoderms with corrodible bristles or hard-parts. A teaspoonful of glycerin in a quart of alcohol helps to preserve natural colors and to keep integuments flexible. Alcohol in jars containing preserved specimens should be changed at intervals—once or twice a year—and evaporation should be guarded against. One of the most important fixatives for the general collector of invertebrates is BOUIN'S FLUID, which is excellent for general structural and histological work, and for preservation of animals for dissection. Fixation time is at least 12 hours for a specimen of bulk, correspondingly longer for larger material. There is not much danger of over-fixing. Afterwards specimens should be washed in 70% alcohol, to remove excess picric acid, and stored in 70-80% alcohol. Formula for Bouin's: 75 parts saturated aqueous picric acid; 25 parts 40% formalin; 5 parts glacial acetic acid.
  • 39. •Field Record Sheets •During field work, the collector will use his/her note-book for “on the spot” observations. On returning home, one should—even at some inconvenience—sort over and roughly classify the specimens, discarding unwanted material at once. Sketches and colour records must now be completed while the animals are still alive. The field sheets should then be filled in, before exact details are forgotten. The amount to be recorded will vary greatly from group to group, according to the amount known, or to the collector's interest in the material. The sheets provide for ample detail, but it is tedious to repeat exhaustive information on each sheet. If too much detail is aimed at, the collector, after a day in the field, will probably not write up his sheets at all. Each bottle or tube of specimens should be identified by a reference number corresponding to the serial sheet number. Specimens are thus numbered simply in order of collecting and writing up. An abbreviation for the name of the class can be usefully added to the sheet below the serial number, e.g. (CTEN — GASTR — CRUST —). The sheets may then be filed in serial order, and, if necessary, as the collection grows, cross-indexed in taxonomic and ecological categories. Details of locality, type of environment, ecological association should be specified, with date and collector's name. Space is left for details of novelty or special interest, but with well-investigated species, this will not necessarily be filled. Reference should be given to any life drawing, colour record, slide or other preparation made from living material. After identification the specific name can be added in the space provided, together with a note referring to taxonomic or general literature. A brief summary of diagnostic features can often be added with advantage.
  • 40. •Storage of the Collection •As the collection grows, the greatest need will be for an orderly storage system, with facilities for quick reference to any container, to filed field notes and any other information. •It may be desired to have the collection visible for permanent display, and with mollusc shells or dried material a set of flat cabinet drawers is best for storage. •Most invertebrates, however, will be kept in bottles, and sets of tubes or jars can be massed together in a small space by placing them in deep cardboard boxes, conspicuously labelled with serial box numbers, and either the ecological to taxonomic classification of the material contained, e.g., either low tide. • Field record sheets should be kept in readily accessible files, again either in ecological or taxonomic order.
  • 41. •Containers •A tidy-minded collector will probably prefer several uniform sizes of tubes and jars. These pack more economically into limited space and are fairly cheap in quantity. Jars should be wide-mouthed, and of clear glass, thick enough to withstand knocks. Bakelite or other non-corrodable tops are preferable to metal caps. Alternatively, wide mouthed bottles may be stoppered with firm, good quality corks. •Preserving jars with rubber washer lids are ideal for larger specimens, while for the bulkiest material, metal drums of two or four gallons capacity are useful. For normal use, jars of 6in. × 3in. and 4in. × 2in. are most serviceable. Specimen tubes are most useful in the 4in. × lin. size. For larger polychaetes, 6in. × 1in. tubes are available, while the smallest material, such as minute shells and crustacea, can be put into 2in. × ½in. or 2in. × ¾in. phials. Small lengths of glass tubing, cut with a file and sealed by heat, or with cotton plugs are often used for tiny shells, and small rubber-stopper serum tubes are especially useful for delicate material. Specimens as a rule may be put straight into the container, although soft- bodied nudibranchs and coelenterates should be protected from distortion by placing them on a layer of cotton wool.
  • 42. •Labeling •The bulk of the information about a specimen should be entered on the record sheet. It is not usually convenient to label material exhaustively in situ. Labels attached to the container should include the habitat, locality and date, and the collector's initial, with perhaps a condensation of any other information to which it is desired to refer without turning up the field sheet. Most important, there should be a reference number to the written field record. Alternatively specimen labels can be placed in the preservative within the container. They should then be written on stiffish, non-absorbent white card, either in pencil (not “indelible” pencil) or in indian ink. Ink labels should be allowed to dry, then steeped for a few minutes in a 3% solution of acetic acid, which effectively sets the ink and prevents “running” when placed in preservative. An example of a completed label is shown. Note that the accurate identification of the specimen is not important at this stage. Often it may not be possible immediately; and the name will have to be entered on the field sheet at a later date. Sometimes identification by a specialist will be needed, while in a few cases the collector may have the thrill of bringing home a yet undescribed species.
  • 43. •TREATMENT OF SPECIAL GROUPS •COELENTERATES are difficult to preserve adequately. The pelagic SCYPHOZOA, SIPHONOPHORA and CTENOPHORA are often singularly beautiful in form and colour. The collector must be prepared for work in the field, with note-book and colour sketches. Afterwards the best that can be done is preservation in 70% alcohol or 5% formalin usually a poor best! Smaller hydrozoans such as Obelia and Sertularia are easier to deal with, while the less well protected Hydra can be quickly fixed in Bouin's warm, not hot. Among the sea-anemones, important taxonomic features are the handsome colour patterns, arrangement of tentacles, and of mesenteries, and microscopic structure of nematocysts. The first two features should be observed in the expanded living animal; the last two require careful fixation, after narcotisation, during which the epithelia should not be allowed to deteriorate. •In the PLATYHELMINTHES (Flatworms) and NEMERTEA (Proboscis worms) final identification often depends upon microscopic examination of sections. Careful fixing is essential for critical study of internal structures. On collecting alive, a colour record and accurate measurements should always be made, with a scale drawing recording accurately any periodic changes of form. In planarians and nemerteans lens details of eye arrangement are important. The best fixation is by pipetting warm Bouin's Fluid over the animal, from tail forward, so as to cause a minimum of contraction. Storage for several days in Bouin's will not harm the tissues. 70-80% alcohol is useful for temporary storage, also as an alternative fixative. Animals may be dehydrated, cleared and bulk-stained for internal study of whole mounts. For the systematist's purposes, it is a good plan to bring a few specimens up to paraffin fairly rapidly, orient and embed in blocks. Paraffin is, perhaps, the best long-term preserving and storage medium of all.
  • 44.
  • 45. •Identification •Most zoologists will have a working familiarity with one or more groups, and in many cases the collector himself will have specialist knowledge of his material. A field zoologist can usefully aspire to an acquaintance with a whole fauna as far as the family or generic level. In practice, however, there will always remain a large number of animals which must be sent to a specialist, usually a professional zoologist, for identification. Sponges, amphipods, polychaetes, and planktonic crustacea are likely to remain specialist's groups. Taxonomists are busy people. This should be remembered in sending specimens, which should be carefully sorted, separated as far as possible into distinct forms, securely packed and sufficiently stamped. Good specimens only should be sent; mutilated fragments, except with rare species, are troublesome and of little interest. The specialist will often be interested in the collector's field observations; where necessary, send record sheets and colour notes. Taxonomists are human, and will often covet specimens of rarer material sent in. Show your appreciation by supplying duplicates.