history of fashion

1. Survey of Apparel design
- - Shweta Iyer
- -College of fashion Design
and Merchandising

2. 
1900-1910
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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3.  Pinched in
waistlines with tight
fit
 Image 1:
 French Ball Gown - circa
1905 - rich silk dress with
rhinestones designed by
Gustave Beer who
designed elegant dresses.
 One pc dresses with
lace/chiffon
 Image 2:
 Jacques Doucet trained
gown (back) of blue silk
taffeta and chiffon with
handmade lace and silk
ribbon, c. 1900-1905
1900-1910-Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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4.  Leg-o-mutton
sleeves
 Image 1:
 The Metropolitan
Museum of Art,
NYC, New York,
USA.
 Gibson girl look of
1890s
 Image 2:
 Floor length skirts
and shirt waist
blouses
 Accessories:Hats,
Handbags and gloves
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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5.  Upper class men wore
frock coats for formal
wear and suits for less
formal wear
 Image 1:Victoria and
Albert Museum- Woollen
beaver cloth trimmed with
silk velvet Straight cut but
loose fitting
 Laced up boots and spats(
fabric coverings)
 Casual wear knickers
,blazers of tweed/flannel,
hats and shoes
 Image 2:Tweed sporting
outfit
1900-1910-Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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6. 
 Girls in frilly dresses,
boys in suits, stiff ties and
hats
 Image 1: Pink wool
gabardine, black velvet
lace and trim
1900-1910 Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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7.  Paul Poiret
 Between 1903 and world
war 1,Designed loose
fitting clothing for women
but also skirts which were
narrow at hem
 Image 1:Paul Poiret at
work
 Image 2:Paul Poiret, Silk
faille dinner dress
Influential designers-
Paul Poiret
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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8. 
 Mme
Paquin(French)-
first famous
couture
designer-
evening wear
with lavish fur
 Image 1:Mme
Paquin
 Image 2:Wollen
dress
Mme Paquin
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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9. 
 Jeanne Lanvin-
couture with
youthful and
Britanny look
 Wedding gowns
and metallic
embroidered
garments
 Image 1:Jeanne
Lanvin
 Image 2:silk,
metallic thread,
glass, plastic
dress
Jeanne Lanvin
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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10. 
1911-1920
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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11. 
 Mix of fashionable
and functional
 Le Miraret set trend
in 1912 by Poiret
 Image 1:Poiret’s famous
lampshade dress.
 Hobble skirts with slit
revealed legs
 Shoes and hosiery
important fashion elements
 Coats which matched dress
underneath
 Parasols and small
handbags
 Later on sense of
practicality came
1911-1920 Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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12. 
 Natural shoulder
look, devoid of
heavy padding and
narrow lapels
 Straight trousers
1911-1920 Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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13. 
 Fancy, impractical
 Image 1:Frills and laces
1911-1920 Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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14.  Spanish designer Fortuny-designs
worn by wealthy women-
 most famous of his designs-Delphos
gown- narrow, irregular, vertical
pleats permanently set in silk
 Image 1:
 Gold silk 1920s Fortuny gown. The
iconic "Delphos" dress. Empire waist
column gown with jewel neck.
 These dresses were made of silk so
light that glass beads hand-blown in
Italy were placed down the sides to
weight it down.
Designers who influenced
Fashion-Fortuny
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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15.  Nina Ricci-graceful
elegant fashion
 Image 1:Nina with her
model
 Madeleine Vionnet-bias
cut and cowl/halter
necklines eliminating
need of fastenings
 Image 2:Vionnet
handkerchief dresses and
cowl neck
 "WHEN A WOMAN
SMILES, HER DRESS
MUST SMILE WITH
HER."
Nina Ricci and Vionnet
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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16. 
1920s
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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17.  Optism descended with end of
World War 1
 Shorter skirts, flappers and knee
length hemlines, long torso
silhouettes with ruffled flounces
 Image 1:young women who
loved flappers
 Layers of chains adorning
necklines, Close fitting hats called
cloches-short hairstyles, Beadings
and fringes
 Fabric: Silk dresses with straight
woolen clothes
 Sportswear introduced and
women wore knickers,culottes
and blazers
 Image 2:First time culottes
1920s-Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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18.  Bell bottomed
and flared
trousers,
 Image 1&2:
jacket waistlines
were reduced,
shoulders
softened
 Image
3:Knickers and
polo shirts
introduced
1920s-Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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19. 
 Children's clothing
echo adult styles
 Girls wore shorter,
less restrictive
silhouettes, donned
baggy tweed pants,
full length pants or
knickers
1920s-Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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20.  Jean Patou French designer -
flapper dress in 1925 with
shorter skirts and dropped
waistlines/uneven hems
 Image 1: Patou and Image 2:Deco
beaded evening dress, late 1920s .
 The use of primary geometric forms
is characteristic of Art Deco, which
reached its apogee in the mid 1920s.
 According to the Victoria & Albert
Museum, Art Deco style was "the most
glamorous and popular style of the
twentieth century
Designers who influenced
fashion-Jean Patou
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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21.  Captain Edward Molyneux-coutoure house in
Pariz,Monte Carlo and London
 Image 1:Cream georgette sewn all over; skirt has
fringe of matching stripes.
 The aesthetics in fashion reflected somewhat the
hard-edged elements of art movements,
 with abstract and geometric designs lending
shape and sexuality to body forms that would
otherwise appear unfeminine and sterile.
 The gowns of the twenties – basically unshaped
rectangles – were embellished with beading,
fringes, ruffles and all manner of embroidery
design to accent each motion of the androgynous
body.
Designers who influenced fashion-
Captain Edward
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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22.  Gabrielle Coco Chanel-
"Dress shabbily and they
remember the dress; dress
impeccably and they
remember the woman."
 Pants replaced suits and
skirts
 Fabric: brocades, velvets,
satins used,
 Image 1:little black dress
worn by Coco Chanel,
 tweed suits embellished with
pockets and trims
 Image 2: Fireworks-evening
dress by Chanel
 Downton Abbey Fashion
Designers who influenced fashion-
Coco Chanel
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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23. 
1930s
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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24.  Period of Economic depression
 Short hemlines dropped to mid calf and till
floor in evening wear
 Image 1:A gold lamé gown and bolero worn by Linda
Darnell for her debut film role in Hotel for Women (20th
Century, 1939).
 The gown has hand smocking embellishment, short puffed
sleeves, a set-in waistband, ivory silk lining to skirt, a
graduated hemline,
 The long-sleeve bolero is embellished with hand smocking
embellishment, padded shoulders, and hand finishing to
interior.
 Image 2:
 Bias cut popularized by Vionnet, strapless
necklines
 Suits with padded shoulders and shorter jackets
 Colors: Black,grey,green,brown
 Fabrics: Crepes,jerseys,satins,soft wool
1930s-Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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25. 
 Shoulders broadened
and padded,Trousers
loose,straight,pleated
and cuffed
 Suits were double
breasted with wide
lapels
 Image 1:double
breasted suit –blue
twill
1930s-Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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26. 
 Both men and women-
tweed suits, navy blazers
with white pleated skirts
,shorter cotton dresses
and pants
 Men and women
embraced leisure wear
 Knit sport shirts and
slacks with contrast color
sport coats
1930s-Introduction of
Spectator Sports wear
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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27. 
 Simple and
practical designs
1930s-Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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28.  Mainbocher-appeal
highest social circles with
Duchess of Windsor
wedding dress in 1936
 Jean Desses-for flowing
chiffon evening gowns
with Greek ancestry
 Madame Gres-draping
with chiffon and silk
jersey
Designers who influenced fashion-
Mainbocher, Jean Desses, Madame
Gres
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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29.  Elsa Schiaparelli-used broad
padded shoulders and Avant
garde sweaters, zippers on
pockets
 Image 1:Evening ensemble
consisting of embroidered silk
velvet jacket and skirt,
designed by Schiaparelli,
Victoria and Albert Museum
 Vera Maxwell-Weekend
Wardrobe in 1935 –collar less
tweed and grey flannel jacket
with tennis skirt or cuffed
trousers
 Image 2:Maxwell tweed
Designers who influenced fashion-Elsa,
Vera
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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30. 
1940s
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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31.  Ongoing war against
Germany,Italy and Japan and
American women started working
in factories
 Padded shoulders and shorter
skirts
 American designers-Bonnie
Cashin and Claire Mc Cardell-
sportswear and separates
 The NEW LOOK-Christian Dior
rounded shoulders, full bust
lines, tiny waists and full skirts
 Image 1:princess coat
 Bikini made debut
 Image 2:Floral bikini
 Fabric: civilian use of fabric got
limited
1940s -Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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32. 
 Single breasted
style, lapels were
narrower
 Image 1:Single
breasted jacket with
narrow lapel.
 Contrasting sport
coats and trousers
1940s -Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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33.  Girls: Image 1:
 Carefree styles -puffed
sleeves and flared
skirts
 Jeans for riding
bicycles
 Oversize sweaters
called sloppy joes
 Boys: T-shirts, sport
shirts, Military styles-
Image 2
1940s - Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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34.  Image 1:Adrian-RTW-
tailored suits with large
square shoulder pads
 Bonnie Cashin-comfort
clothing for weekend and
travel-wool jersey,
knit,leather,suede,tweed,ho
ods and toggle closures on
coats and jackets-toga and
kimono
 Image 2:Bonnie Cashin
Striped Knit Dress and
Sweater 1970s
 Claire Mc Cardell-casual
wear, American Look-large
pockets, topstitch
Designers who influenced fashion-
Adrian,Bonnie Cashin,Claire Mc Cardell
Shweta Iyer-Survey of
Apparel Design-Fashion
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35.  Norman Norell-
sequined gowns,
sportswear sweaters,
jumpsuits and
pantsuits
 Image 1:Mermaid
sea-green dress
 Christian Dior-A-
Line and Y-Line
 Balenciaga-master
tailor and
dressmaker
 Image 2: Dorian
Leigh wearing a
Balenciaga evening
dress on the cover of
Harper's Bazaar
Designers who influenced fashion-
Norman Norell,Balenciaga
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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36. 
1950s
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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37.  Elvis Presley popularity soared
 Hemlines short to long
 Tailored and coutoure wear
 Full skirted, strapless evening wear
 Sportswear including slacks, pedal
pushers,shorts,halters
 Image 1:
 Beatnik Look
 Leotards and tapered pants topped
by hooded knit and overshirt
 Image 2:Aqua blue leotard bodysuit
 Unisex fashion
 Fabrics: Newly developed fibers
1950s-Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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38. 
 Charcoal gray suits
with narrow lapels and
natural shoulders with
Ivy League Label
 Image 1:Bda
 Narrow pants
 Standard white shirts
plus pink shirts
 Madras checks for sport
coats and shorts
 Leather jackets and rock
n’ roll idols
1950s -Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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39. 
 Teenage girls full
skirts and over
stiffened
crinolines
 Image 1:Crinoline
petticoat
 Saddled shoes
and white bucks
1950s-Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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40. 
 Hubert de Givenchy-
peasant blouse and
elegant evening wear
and
 Image 1:Givenchy
suit
 Charles James-
batwing styles,
asymmetrical shapes
 Image 2:batwing style
Designers who influenced fashion-
Hubert de Givenchy and Charles James
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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41. 
1960s
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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42. 
 Mod styles-tailored youth fashion with
competition from rockers-leather and
crash helmets
 Miniskirts
 New fashion capital as London
 Jaqueline Kennedy in Chanel suit and
pillbox hat
 Image 1:Jaqueline in Chanel suit
 Empire waistlines-A-line or straight cut
shapes
 Pantsuits
 Denim and jeans for men and women
 Introduction to two-piece bathing suits
1960 s-Women
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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43.  Long hair lengths,
exaggerated jacket
lapels-
 Image 1:Beautiful mid-
length, mid-weight jacket
with exaggerated
folding/draping lapels
incorporated into the
sleeves (causing no
restriction to arm
movement,
 flared
pants,boots,jewelery
1960 s-Men
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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44. 
 Jeans,ragged t-
shirts,army
boots,ponchos,long hair
into “youth culture”-
anti-fashion expression
 Image 1:Hippie look
1960 s-Children
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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45. 
 Mary Quant using denim, vinyl,
colored flannels with tights, mini
skirts
 Image 1:Magazine advert
 Image 2:Mary Quant
Designers who influenced Mary
Quant
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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46.  Courreges-Go go boots
 YVS- Ballgowns to
pantsuits, First RTW by
name of Rive Gauche wider
appeal than coutoure
 Image1:Advert for Rive
Gauche
 Pierre Cardin-Image 2:nude
look in 1966,metal body
jewellery and (inset) Image
3: astronaut suits and
helmets
 Anne Klein-Junior clothing
category-skirts, blazers,
jersey dresses, pants,
sweaters
 Image 4:Dress and coat set
for Junior
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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Designers who influenced
Courreges,YVS,Pierre Cardin,
Anne Klein

47. 
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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1970s

48.  Midi and maxi skirts
introduced
 Image 1:Midi skirts with retro
look
 Short skirts or pants
 Image 2:Hot pants of 1970s
 Minis, hot pants and platform
shoes become rage
 Adults middle aged wore-flare
legged trousers
 Granny clothing
 Punk rock introduction
 Image 3:Rock bands like
Ramones, AC-DC, Sex pistols
 Unisex clothing
 Fabrics:for evening pants,with
sheer silks,jerseys,tunic with
pants
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
48
1970s-Women

49.  Peacock look,
 Image 1:Man in peacock suit
 Broad upturned padded
shoulders, fitted waistline, long
jacket, flared pants
 Image 2: Men of 1970s
 Denim garments
 Layered look as part of fashion
innovation
 Functional and stylish
 Fabric: knits
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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1970s-Men

50.  Flaunting of
labels and
designer
jeans started
 Image
1:Wrangler
Jeans Ad and
h.i.s jeans ad
 Casual wear
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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1970s-Teens

51.  Zhanda Rhodes-
inspired by new music
 Image 1:Inspired by
curtain
 Giorgio Armani-
unconstructed blazer
in Italian fabrics
 Image 2: Armani in
Harpers Bazaar
 In US,CK-designer
jeans
 Image 3:Brooke
Shields in CK jeans
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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Designers who influenced Zandra
Rhodes, Giorgio Armani,Calvin
Klein

52.  Betsey Johnson-T-shirts,
vinyl dresses with paste
ons, spandex knits,
tight pants
 Image 1:Betsey Johson
suite designed by
herself
 Norma Kamali-
parachute nylon for
jumpsuits and
sweatshirt material
from gymnasiums for
RTW styles
 Image 2:Jackets
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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Designers who influenced Betsey
Johnson, Norma Kamali

53. 
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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1980s

54.  Beginning of MTV
 Natural fibers awareness with
environment
 Pouf skirts in Paris couture
 Image 3:Pouf skirts
 Warm up suits and sneakers
 Levis jeans, shirts and sweater
 Image 1:First ad of Levis
 Power suit-unisex
 Image 2:women dressing for
business
 Skirts of all lengths
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
54
1980s-Women and Men

55. 
 Madonna inspired bustier
 Image 1:Madonna herself
 Lycra spandex
 Torn jeans
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
55
1980s-Teen

56. 
 NAFTA AND GATT Act
 Platform shoes by Doc Martens
 Grunge look
 Image 1: Ramones
 Hip hop style –baggy pants and
t-shirt
 Look of retro
 Kelly bag worn by Grace Kelly
 Dress down Fridays
 Image 2:Friday Outfit
 Wear khakis and button-down
shirts
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
56
Designers who influenced- Donna
Karan, Perry Ellis, Christian Lacroix

57.  Anna Sui who designs
imaginative and adventurous
clothing for younger market
 Image1: Anna Sui and her
Romantica collection
 John Galliano specializes in
bias cut evening wear and
selected as Givenchy’s
replacement.
 Joseph Abboud:Menswear
blend with European styling
and American practicality.
 Tom Ford’s Gucci collection
premiered
 Image 3:Tom Ford inset
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
57
Designers who influenced- Anna Sui, John Galliano,
Joseph Abboud, Herve Leger, Gucci

58. 
 Sentencing of Saddam Hussein
 Trends taken from Moulin
Rouge and Pearl Harbor which
focused on military look
 Value operations in labels like
Target-Mizrahi label, H& M-
Karl Lagerfeld and Stella
McCartney lines.
 Image 1:Target label
 Image 2:H &M
 Image 3:Stella Mc Cartney
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
58
2000 s

59.  Golds, sequins and shiny
decorations by Commes des
Garcons
 Image 1:dresses of Commes des
Garcons,
 Jason Wu
 Image 2:Jason Wu,
 Diane Von Furstenburg, Image
3:Dots of Diane Von
 Moschino and Dolce and
Gabanna.
 Casual wear booties,faux fur, lace
accessories, wrap cardigans,
capes and ponchos,midi lengths,
bow blouses, skinny jeans and
leather sportswear. Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
59
2010 s

60.  Lines by ethnic minority
celebrities such as Beyoncé
 Image 1:Hymns from Weekend
with Coldplay, Jennifer Lopez,
Sean Diddy Combs and Russel
Simmons made successful
debuts
 Classic garments with fresh
fabrics and colours.
 Image 2: Beyoncé inset
 Leggings, grunge look, denim
vest became fashionable.
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
60

61. 
 To take any one of the fashion designers of the
century and make their time line from origin till
present era
 Submission Date: 18-11-16
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
61
SUBMISSION

62. 
 The world of Fashion-5th edition
 Jay diamond and Ellen Diamond
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
62
BOOK REFERENCE

63. 
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
63
HIGHLIGHTS

64. 
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
64
HIGHLIGHTS PLUS
TERMINOLOGIES

65.  Wiscosinhistory.org
 Business of fashion.org
 Victoria Albert hall museum
 bigskythinkbigblog.com
 coletterie.com
 http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/106487
 http://www.thecultureconcept.com/the-designer-files-by-jo-bayley-lanvin
 toffsworld.com
 www.thinglink.com
 http://www.thedebrief.co.uk/style/fashion/here-s-why-culottes-are-the-most-feminist-item-of-clothing-to-add-to-
your-wardrobe-20140917752
 http://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-style-mens-pants-and-trousers/
 www.thepeoplehistory.com
 http://artquill.blogspot.in/2013_11_01_archive.html
 http://glamourdaze.com/2012/10/downton-abbey-what-1920s-fashions-to-look-out-for.html
 www.julienlive.com
 www.etsy.com
 http://goddesssaintnoblewomannun.blogspot.in/2013/06/june-3-2013-part-i.html
 https://www.1stdibs.com
 The miniskirt revolution-wordpress.com
 Superseventiestumblr.com
 www.sydnestyle.com
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Shweta Iyer-Survey of Apparel Design-
Fashion Eras
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