Unit 3 Herbal Cosmetics

1. By-
Prof. Mrs. P. N. Chougule
Assistant Professor & HOD Pharmacognosy
department.
Ashokrao Mane College of Pharmacy, Peth-
Vadgaon.
UNIT-III 10 Hours
Herbal Cosmetics

2. Content-
 Herbal Cosmetics
 Sources and description of raw materials of herbal
origin used via, fixed oils, waxes, gums, colours,
perfumes, protective agents, bleaching agents,
antioxidants in products such as skin care, hair care
and oral hygiene products.
 Herbal excipients:
 Herbal Excipients – Significance of substances of
natural origin as excipients – colorants, sweeteners,
binders, diluents, viscosity builders, disintegrates,
flavors & perfumes.
 Herbal formulations :
 Conventional herbal formulations like syrups,
mixtures and tablets and Novel dosage forms like

3. Herbal Cosmetic
 According to Drug and cosmetic act, Cosmetics are
defined as an articles intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise
applied to the human body or any part of body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or
altering the appearance.
 They does not come under the preview of Drug
license.
 Cosmeceuticals is the fastest growing segment of the
personal care products, these are cosmetic products
which contain biologically active principles or
ingredients of the plant origin.
 There is an increased demand for the use of natural

4.  Herbal cosmetics are known as natural cosmetics.
Herbal cosmetics are formulated by using different
cosmetic constituents to form the base in which one or
more ingredients of natural origin are used.
 Many Plants are mainly used for development of new
drug products for cosmetic formulation. In herbal
cosmetics the herbs are used in the crude or extracts
forms.
 Herbs includes crude plant materials like leaves,
flowers, fruit, seeds, stem, wood, bark, root, rhizome
or other plant parts, which may be entire, fragmented
or powdered. Herbal materials also included fresh
juices, gums, fixed oils, essential oils, resins and dry
powders of herbs.
 Herbal cosmetics are formulated by using various
acceptable cosmetic ingredients form the base in
which one or more herbal ingredients are used to

5.  Herbs do not produce immediate cures. They
provide a away to make the body in proper tune with
nature. An enormous number of cosmetics and
toiletry formulations have been designed and
developed which are based upon herbs.
 The demand of herbal medicines is increasing
quickly due to their skin easiness and lack of side
effects.
 The natural ingredients in the herbs also provides
nutrients and minerals to body. The term
Cosmeceuticals was first developed by Raymond
Reed member of U.S. society of Cosmetics Chemist
in 1961.
 The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek
word “Kosmtikos” which means having the power, to

6. Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics
over Synthetic cosmetics-
 Natural in nature
 Safe to use
 Compatible with body
 Variety of product
 Affordable and Non expensive
 Not need to tested on animals
 No side effects

7. Classification of Cosmetics-
1. Skin Care Products
2. Hair Care Products
3. Oral Care Products

8. Cosmetics For Skin Care-
 Creams
 Lubricating or emollient
cream – night cream
 Skin protective and hand
cream
 Vanishing cream –
Foundation cream
 Liquid cream
 Miscellaneous cream
 Cosmetic Lotion
 Hand Lotion
 Skin toning Lotion- Skin
Fresheners
 Astringent Lotion
•Bleaching Lotion
•Medicated Lotion
•After shaving Lotion
•Deodorants
•Sunscreen
•Sunburn external medicines
•Make- up preparations
•Varieties of face powders
•Toilet powders
•Lipstick
•Mascara
•Eye shadow. Eyebrow pencil
etc.

9.  Some of important examples of raw materials of
herbal origin used in skin care products are-
 Coconut oil- it is obtained from the dried kernel of the
fruit or seed of coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera,
family- Arecaceae, which contains about 60- 65% of
the oil. Coconut oil contains a high amount of
glycerides of lower chain fatty acids. The melting point
of coconut oil is low i.e. 24 to 25ᵒC and can be used
in cooking and baking. Coconut oil is used as a skin
moisturizer and softener.
 Sunflower oil- it is the non-volatile oil extracted from
sunflower seeds obtained from Helianthus annuus,
family- Asteraceae. It contains lecithin, tocopherols,
carotenoids and waxes.
 Olive oil- This oil is a fixed oil extracted from the fruits
of Olea europaea, family- Oleaceae. It is used as skin
and hair conditioner in cosmetics like Lotions,

10.  Aloevera- Aloevera is a herbal plant species of Aloe
barbadensis, belonging to Liliaceae family. It is an
ingredient in many cosmetics as it heals, moistures,
and soft skin. Aloevera contains amino acids like
leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides that provides
cleansing action, vatamins A,C, E, B, choline, B12, B7
and provide anti-oxidant activity.
 Carrot- It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota,
belonging to family Apiaceae. It is rich in Vitamin A.
Carrot seed oil is used as anti-aging, revitalizing and
rejuvenating agent.
 Ginkgo- The leaves and nuts of the Ginkgo biloba,
family- Ginkgoaceae, it has been used as an anti-
oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. Also has
significant anti-fungal, anti-biotic effect.

11.  Neem- Neem belongs to family- Meliaceae and
species- Azadirachta indica, it has antifungal, anti-
bacterial and pain relieving properties.
 Green tea- it is obtained from the plant Camelia
sinensis, which inhibits two- stage chemical
carcinogenesis.
 Calendula- Calendula officinalis have a remarkable
anti-oxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity and
wound healing activity.
 Turmeric- It is a deep yellow to orange powder that
comes from the underground stems Curcuma longa
of the family- Zingiberaceae. It is used as antiseptic,
analgesics, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-
malarial and insect-repellent.
 Avocado- the avocado oil has a rare vitamin D,
which can nourish the skin. The oil can penetrate

12.  Almond- the almond oil is one of the safest oil that
can be used in cosmetic products, as it causes less
acidic reactions than any other oils. The oil has been
used for skin protection against the dry and hot
climate conditions. It whitens the skin and used in
fairness creams.
 Sandalwood- Sandalwood is used to freshen and
refresh dull skin. Sandalwood paste is used to heal
skin problems and provide glow to the skin.
Sandalwood is also used in face packs and scrubs.
 Saffron- Saffron helps in cleansing of skin. It is used
in cosmetics in production of fairness creams,
cleansers and skin-blemish lotion.

13. Cosmetics for hair care products-
 It included various preparations like-
 Hair preparation
 Shampoos
 Rinses and conditioners
 Oily scalp hair tonics
 Hair dressings
 Fixatives
 Bleaches
 Depilatories etc.

14.  Some important examples of raw materials of herbal
origin used in Hair care products are-
 Amla-It is obtained from the plant Emblica officinalis,
family- Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in vitamin C,
tannins, minerals such as phosphorus, Iron and
Calcium which provides nutrition to hair and also
causes darkening of hair.
 Almond oil- the almond oil is obtained from Prunus
dulcis. The almond oil contains about 78% of fat. It
cantains very small amount super- unsaturated
Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It stimulates thicker
hair growth and prevents premature graying of hair.
 Shikakai- it is obtained from the plant Acacia
concinna, family- Leguminosae. The fruits of this
plants are used for washing hairs, for improving hair
growth and also as an expectorant, emetic and
purgative.

15.  Henna- henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis,
family- Lythraceae. Which contains a dye molecule known
as Lawsone, which when processed produces henna
powder. It is used in coloring of hairs and also has anti-
dandruff properties.
 Neem- Neem is commonly used in the treatment of
dandruff as it produces anti-fungal and anti-bacterial
effects.
 Brahmi- Centella asiatica, family- Umbelliferae. Is a herb
which contains essential oils, sterols, flavonol, glycosides
and triterpenoid saponins. Brahmi oil is used in hair care
formulations. It delays graying of hairs.
 Bhringraj- Bhringraj species Eclipta alba, family-
Asteraceae, is an annual or perennial plant found in moist
places throughout India. Bhringraj mainly contains
alkaloids (Ecliptine), glycosides (β- amyrin), triterpenic
acid and steroids (ecalbasaponins). Brahmi oil is very
good as hair tonic and used in hair formulation for healthy,

16.  Gurhal- Gurhal species Hibiscus rosa sinensis, Family-
Malvaceae is a popular Indian garden plant. It contains
beta- sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, cholesterol,
ergosterol, flavonoids and flavonoid, glycosides, lipids,
citric and oxalic acids. Hibiscus petals stimulates thicker
hair growth and prevent premature graying, hair loss and
scalp disorders. Petals extract acts as a natural hair
conditioner and used in hair washes.
 Basil oil- The basil oil species Ocimum sanctum, family-
Labiatae is obtained from leaves & flowering tops of
Ocimum sanctum by steam distillation method. The basil
oil contain 1, 8 cineol, linolool, methyl chavicol, eugenol,
and methyl cinnamate. Basil oil stimulates and promotes
hairs.
 Jojoba oil- Jojoba oil species Simmondsia chinensis,
Family- Simmondiaceae is obtained from seeds of
Simmondsia chinensis by cold pressed method. The

17.  Methi- Methi species Trigonella foenum, family-
Fabaceae is obtained from dried ripe seeds of
Trigonella foenumgraecum methi contains essential
amino acids, protein, starch, sugars, mucilage,
minerals, volatile oil, fixed oil, vitamins and enzymes.
Methi is used for hair care agent.
 Rose oil- Rose species Rosa damascena, family-
Rosaceae is obtained from fresh petals of Rosa
damascena by hydro-steam distillation technique.
Rose oil contains citronellol, geraniol, linalool,
camphene, eugenol and pinene. Rose oil is used in
hair care products.
 Sage oil- Sage oil species Salvia officinalis, family-
Labiatae is obtained from dried leaves of Salvia
officinalis by steam distillation technique. The sage oil
contains α- pinene, cineole, linalyl acetate, borneol
and camphor. The sage oil is used as an anti

18. Cosmetics for Oral Care product-
 Bad oral health leads to various diseases like
dental caries, inflammation or gingivitis, thrush,
bad breath, soreness and tooth ache are
conditions that plague the mouth.
 Herbs will improve , relieve and eliminate these
problems.
 Some herbal cosmetics included various
preparations like-
 1. Dentifrices and mouth washes
 2. Tooth pastes
 3. Cosmetics for teeth and mouth washes
 4. General cosmetics

19.  Some of the important examples of raw materials of herbal
origin used in Oral care products are-
 Clove- Eugenia caryophyllus, Myrtaceae is consists of
essential oils, eugenol, isoeugenol, eugenol acetate, β-
caryophylline. It has analgesic, antibacterial, antiviral, anti-
inflammatory, antioxidants properties. Essential oil is
obtained from clove used as a breath freshener. It has
been used to relieve tooth ache, in periodontitis (gum
infections which damages jawbone), and as an anesthetic
and also to treat bleeding gums. Clove gel is used as an
alternative to benzocaine for topical anesthesia by
dentists. It is present in tinctures, lozenges and
mouthwash.
 Tea tree oil- it has antiseptic, antifungal, non-irritant
properties and also used as a mild solvent. The major
active component is terpinene-4-ol. Tea tree oil has been
used to destroy micro-organism in the mouth before dental

20.  German chamomile- it has anti-inflammatory,
analgesic, antimicrobial, antispasmodic and sedative
properties. Chamomile is generally taken as a tea or a
liquid extract. It is used in gingivitis, periodontal
disease and in ulcers as a mouth wash.
 Coconut water- Cocos nucifera, it is used as root
canal irrigant as it has antiviral, antifungal and
antimicrobial properties and also used as a storage
media for avulsed tooth.
 Green tea- Camelia sinensis, green tea contains
polyphenol like catechin (C), epicatechin (EC),
gallocatechin (GC), epigallocatechin (EGC),
epicatechin gallate (ECG). It has anti-inflammatory,
antibacterial and antiviral properties. It is used in the
treatment of periodontal disease.
 Tulsi- Ocimum sanctum, it has antihelminthic,
analgesic, antipyretic, immune stimulatory, antiulcer,

21.  Triphala- triphala is a powder combination of amalaki,
haritaki and bibhitaki. It contains ascorbic acid,
thiamin, riboflavin and niacin. It is antioxidant,
antimicrobial. It is used in dental caries, bleeding and
ulcerated gums. Triphala has free radical scavenging
property so helps in the protection of gum cells from
free radicals produced by the microorganisms.
 Garlic- Allium sativum, when held in mouth for 5
minutes it sterilizes the oral cavity, as it has strong
antibacterial activity.
 Aloe- it has strong immune modulating and healing
properties. It is analgesic, antibacterial, antiviral,
antifungal, antioxidant immune modulating, antiseptic,
anti-inflammatory. Aloe vera is used in the sites of
periodontal surgery, toothpick injuries, chemical burns,

22.  Neem- Azadirachta indica, the twigs are used as a
toothbrush, the bark for healing gum disease, the oil
for soap, and the leaves for medicine. Neem is used in
preventing and healing gum diseases and other dental
problems.
 Turmeric- turmeric contains volatile oil which is
composed of a number of monoterpenes and
sesquiterpenes, including zingiberene, curcumin, α
and β- turmerone. It is anticarcinogenic, antioxidant,
antibacterial and used in dental caries, oral problems,
gingivitis, halitosis(bad breath), pits and fissure
dental plaque detection system. Massaging the aching
with roasted, ground turmeric eliminates pain and
 Grape seed extracts- grape seed extracts contains
proanthocynidine which are potent antioxidants and
anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and immune-
effects. It has re-mineralizing effects on artificial root

23. Herbal Excipients-
 Excipients can be defined as non active ingredients
that are mixed with therapeutically active
compounds to form medicines. The ingredients
which is not an active compound is regarded as
excipients.
 Excipients are substances which are used as a
medium for giving a medicament. These substances
helps in the processing of the drug delivery system
during its manufacturing, protects, support or
enhance stability, bioavailability or patient
acceptability, assist in product identification, or
enhance any other attribute of the overall safety,
effectiveness and delivery of the drug during storage

24. WHO defines
 Excipient as the substance other than active
ingredients which have been appropriated
evaluated for safety and or included in a drug
delivery system.
 To aid in processing if drug delivery system
during its manufacture.
 To protect, support and enhance stability,
bioavailability or patient acceptability.
 To assist in product identification.
 To enhance any other attribute of the overall
safety and effectiveness of the drug during
storage or use.

28. Herbal Formulation
 Herbal formulations means a dosage form
consisting of one or more herbs or processed herbs
in specified quantities to provide specific nutritional,
cosmetics benefits, meant for the use to diagnose,
treat, mitigate diseases of human beings or
animals, alter the structure or physiology of human
beings or animals.
 Herbal formulation contains an active substance or
herbal substance or herbal preparations or herbal
substances in combination with one or more herbal
preparations. Herbal formulations are obtained by
subjecting herbal substances to treatments such as
extraction, distillation, expression, fractionation,

29. Types of Herbal formulations
 Herbal syrup-
 These preparations are formulated by the
Incorporation of sugar with vegetable infusions,
decoctions, Express juices, fermented liquors,
simple water solution are called as herbal syrups.
 honey and unrefined sugar are effective
preservatives and can be combined with infusions
or decoctions to make syrups they have
additional benefit of having soothing action and
therefore make a perfect vehicle for cough
mixtures as well as relieving sore throats with
their sweet taste syrups can be used to mask
taste of unpalatable herbs and are therefore
greatly appreciated by children's.

30.  Herbal mixtures-
 These are the preparations made by adding more
number of powder drugs with the different
quantities selected randomly to express the
pharmacological activity the difference
formulations can be made by changing the
quantities of drugs being added.
 After addition of number of drugs these herbal
mixtures sometimes can be subjected for
extraction processes such formulations should be
subjected for all standardization procedures to
check quality and quantity of phytoconstituents.

31.  Herbal tablets
 These are solid dosage forms of powdered herbs
herbal extracts are their constituent prepared by
molding or compression.
 Certain additives are also added to the
Medicaments in the formulation of tablets, tablets
are usually circular in shape and may be flat or
biconvex.

32. Phytosomes
 Novel dosage form- Phytosomes
 The Phytosomes have a marked lipophilic character and
improved topical absorption of complex molecules which
show improve the specific activity in the skin functions
such as hydration collagen structure enzyme balance.
 Phytosome process the phosphotidylcholine and the
plant components actually form a 1:1 or a 2:1 molecular
complex depending on the substances involving
chemical bonds.
 Topical absorption of biologically active
Phytoconstituents provides local application at the site of
requirement the Phytosomes process intensifies herbal
compounds by improving absorption increasing
bioavailability and enhancing delivery of drug to the
tissues.

33.  By combining the emulsifying action of the
phospholipids with the standardized of botanical
extract the Phytosomes from provide dramatically
enhance the bioavailability and Delivers faster and
improved absorption through the skin.
 Therefore application of natural molecules in the
form of Phytosomes improves its absorption
nourishment of the skin and act as functional
cosmetics.
 Functional cosmetic are topical Cosmetic
Pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance
beauty through ingredients that provide additional
health related function or benefits.
 The duel application of Phytosomes as a topical
pharmaceutical agent and cosmetics with
improved efficiency and safety results in proper
utilization of Herbals and cost effective functional

34.  Benefits of Phytosomes as a functional cosmetics-
 Phytosomes enhance is the absorption of herbal
constants and enhance viability because the drug is in
complex form with the phospholipids.
 Dose requirement is reduced due to improved
absorption of chief constituent.
 Entrapment efficiency is high and more ever
predetermined because drug itself in conjugation with
lipids forming vesicle.
 Shows better stability profile because chemical bonds
are formed between fast Phosphotidylcholine molecule
and Phytoconstituents.
 Commercial Phytosomes as a functional Cosmetic-
 Ginkgo biloba terpenes Phytosome was shown to be e
effective on soothing Individual contact reaction two

36.  Advantages of Phytosomes-
 Phytosome produces a little cell where the valuable
components of herbal extract are protected from
destruction by digestive secretions and gut bacteria.
 It assures proper delivery of drug to the respective tissue.
 The nutrition safety of the herbal extracts need not be
compromise the by conveying the herbal drug as means
of Phytosomes.
 Dose requirement has been reduced by the maximum
absorption of chief constituent.
 Marked enhancement in the bioavailability of drug occurs.
 Entrapment efficiency is high and more or predetermined
because drug itself is in conjugation with lipids in forming
vesicles.
 There is no problem in in drug Entrapment while
formulating Phytosomes.
 Phytosomes are also superior to liposome's in skin care

37. Thank you…