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Technical Fabrics
Definition of Technical Fabrics
Fabrics manufactured primarily for their technical
 performance and functional properties rather than
 their aesthetic or decorative characteristics
Methods for producing fabrics
Weaving
Knitting
Lace making
Net making
Felting               A 3-D Fabric

Tufting
Non-woven processes
Woven Fabric Specifications
• Fabric construction
   – Warp count x weft count/ ends per inch x picks per
     inch
• Fabric area density / GSM
• Cover factor
• Type of weave
• Crimp
• Fabric width
• Thickness
Fabric area density
• The loom state cloth area density depends on the
  weaving specification, that is, yarns, thread spacing
  and weave, and on any additives, such as size, which
  are used to improve the weaving process.
• Finished cloth area density is frequently altered by
  chemical treatments .
• The area density of the fabric can be varied by
  changing the linear density or count of the yarns used
  and by altering the thread spacing, which affects the
  area covered by the yarns in relation to the total area.
Cloth cover factor
Cloth cover factor = warp cover factor + weft cover factor
Cover factor in SI units =


Cover factor formula by Pierce =
Area density and cover factor
Low area density fabrics of open construction include
 bandages

Light area density fabrics high cover factor fabrics
 include medical filter fabrics

Heavy open cloths include Geotextiles fabrics


Heavy closely woven fabrics include cotton awnings.
Plain weave
90% technical fabrics have plain weave
Price: 13.40 euro / sq.m.
           Areal weight: 165 g / sq.m.
           Weaving style: Plain
           Width: 0.91 or 1.27 meters                           ARAMID FABRIC
           Warp: aramid fiber Kevlar 49, 5.1 ends(threads) / cm
           Weft: aramid fiber Kevlar 49, 5.1 ends / cm
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF ARAMID FIBER USED
Tensile strength (MPa): 2900
Elongation at break (%): 2.5
Price: 21.68 euro / sq.m.
                                             CARBON FABRIC
           Areal weight: 205 g / sq.m.
           Weaving style: Plain
           Width: 1.27 meters
           Warp: carbon fiber,
           Weft: carbon fiber,
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF CARBON FIBER USED
Tensile strength (MPa): 4900
Elongation at break (%): 2.1
Point paper diagram of a plain weave fabric.
Warp-faced plain fabrics

• Generally have a much higher
  warp cover factor than weft
  cover factor.
• If warp and weft yarns of similar
  linear density are used, a typical
  warp faced plain may have twice
  as many warp ends as picks.
Weft-faced plain fabrics

Produced by using much higher weft cover factors
 than warp cover factors

Weft-faced plains are little used because they are
 more difficult to weave.
Rib fabrics

• The simplest modifications of plain
  weave fabrics.

• Produced by lifting two or more warp
  threads and/or two or more picks at the
  same time.

• It results in larger warp and/or weft
  covered surface areas than in a plain
  weave fabric.
Matt fabrics (or hopsack)
• The simplest of the matt weaves is a 2/2
  where two warp ends are lifted over
  two picks

• Matt weave fabrics can be woven with
  higher cover factors and have fewer
  intersections.

• In close constructions they may have
  better abrasion and better filtration
  properties and greater resistance to
  water penetration.

• In more open constructions matt
  fabrics have a greater tear resistance
  and bursting strength.
Twill fabrics
A twill is a weave that repeats on three or more ends
 and picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of a
 fabric.

Such lines generally run from selvedge to selvedge.


The direction of the diagonal lines on the surface of
 the cloth are generally described as a fabric is viewed
 along the warp direction.
When the diagonal lines are running
upwards to the right they are ‘Z twill’ or ‘twill
right’ and when they run in the opposite
direction they are ‘S twill’ or ‘twill left’

3 x 3 Twill weaves.
(a)2/1 Twill with Z twill line,
(b)2/1 twill with S twill line,
(c)1/2 twill with Z twill line,
(d)1/2 twill with S twill line,
(e)four repeats of (a) (2/1 twill with a Z twist line).
Twill fabrics
• For any construction twills will have longer floats, fewer
  intersections and a more open construction than a plain
  weave fabric with the same cloth particulars.

• Broken twills, waved twills, herringbone twills are
  extensively used for suiting and dress fabrics.

• The smallest repeat of a twill weave consists of 3 ends x 3
  picks.
Satins and sateens in Britain
Satin                             Sateen

• A satin is a warp-faced weave   • A sateen, frequently referred
                                    to as a ‘weft sateen’, is a weft-
• Satins normally have a much       faced weave .
  greater number of ends than     • Sateens are generally woven
  picks per centimeter.             with a much higher number
                                    of picks than ends.
• To avoid confusion a satin is
  frequently described as a
  ‘warp satin’.
Use of Satins and Sateens
Satins and sateens are widely used in uniforms,
 industrial and protective clothing
Triaxial weaves
• Two sets of warp yarns are generally inserted at 60° to
 the weft
Triaxial weaves
The tear resistance, bursting resistance of Triaxial
 fabrics is greatly superior to that of standard fabrics

They have a wide range of technical applications
 including sailcloths, tyre fabrics, balloon fabrics.
Crimp
Classification of Weaving Machines
• Single-phase weaving machines
   – Machines with shuttles (looms):
    •   Hand operated (hand looms)
    •   Non-automatic power looms (weft supply in shuttle changed
        by hand)
    •   Automatic weaving machines
  – Shuttle less weaving machines:
    • Projectile                     In single phase machines, one weft thread is laid
    • Rapier                         across the full width of the warp sheet followed
                                     by the beat-up and the formation of the next shed
    • Jet machines                   in preparation for the insertion of the next pick.
       – air (with or without relay nozzles)

       – liquid (generally water)                 In multiphase machines, several
                                                     phases of the working cycle take place
• Multiphase weaving machines                        at any instant so that several picks are
                                                     being inserted simultaneously.
Shedding Mechanisms
Crank
Cam or tappet
Dobbies
Jacquards
Weft Insertion Mechanisms
Shuttle
Projectile
Rapier
Air jet
Water jet
Projectile looms…
• They are used not only for weaving a vast range of
 standard fabrics but also for heavy industrial fabrics
 of up to 8m wide, for
  – sailcloth,
  – conveyor belts,
  – tyre cord fabrics,
  – awnings,
  – Geotextiles,
  – airbags and
  – a wide range of filter fabrics of varying area density and
    porosity.
L680W series high-efficiency fibre glass rapier
cross weaving machine


Suitable for the weaving of various gridding
cloth used in civil engineering, hydraulic
construction, building materials, chemical
engineering ann transportation areas
OMNI plus 800 air jet weaving
machine
• Gauze
   – Gauze is a lightweight, open-texture fabric produced in
     plain weave, used for bandages, food wrapping etc.
• Parachute
   – Parachute is industrial, heavy-filament, rib stop cloths
     made of fine nylon fibre
• Tyre cord
   – Tire cord is a fabric used to reinforce the tires of
     vehicles
OMNI plus 800 air jet weaving
machine
• Umbrella cloth
   – Umbrella cloth is usually made with a cotton warp and
     rayon or nylon filling, which is then treated to make it
     water repellent.
• Camping tent cloth
   – Camping tent cloth is a fabric used for the outer
    covering of tents for recreational camping.
OptiMax rapier weaving
machine
Conveyer belt
  Conveyor belt is a continuously moving strip or surface
    for transporting a load of objects from one place to
    another.

Filter cloth
  Filter cloths are mainly made up of monofilaments
    and/or multifilament's.
Woven either on
rapier or air-jet technology
• Sail cloth
   – Sail cloth is any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric,
     usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon etc.
     that is used for sails and apparel.
• Seat fabrics
   – Seat fabrics are used to cover seats in the transport
     industry (automotive, aviation, etc.)
• Air bags
   – Airbag is a heavy denier nylon fabric for personal
     protection in various forms of transportation.
   – Most airbag fabrics are woven with rapier weaving
     technology.
Technical Fabrics

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Technical Fabrics

  • 2. Definition of Technical Fabrics Fabrics manufactured primarily for their technical performance and functional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics
  • 3. Methods for producing fabrics Weaving Knitting Lace making Net making Felting A 3-D Fabric Tufting Non-woven processes
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • 6. Woven Fabric Specifications • Fabric construction – Warp count x weft count/ ends per inch x picks per inch • Fabric area density / GSM • Cover factor • Type of weave • Crimp • Fabric width • Thickness
  • 7. Fabric area density • The loom state cloth area density depends on the weaving specification, that is, yarns, thread spacing and weave, and on any additives, such as size, which are used to improve the weaving process. • Finished cloth area density is frequently altered by chemical treatments . • The area density of the fabric can be varied by changing the linear density or count of the yarns used and by altering the thread spacing, which affects the area covered by the yarns in relation to the total area.
  • 8. Cloth cover factor Cloth cover factor = warp cover factor + weft cover factor Cover factor in SI units = Cover factor formula by Pierce =
  • 9. Area density and cover factor Low area density fabrics of open construction include bandages Light area density fabrics high cover factor fabrics include medical filter fabrics Heavy open cloths include Geotextiles fabrics Heavy closely woven fabrics include cotton awnings.
  • 10. Plain weave 90% technical fabrics have plain weave
  • 11. Price: 13.40 euro / sq.m. Areal weight: 165 g / sq.m. Weaving style: Plain Width: 0.91 or 1.27 meters ARAMID FABRIC Warp: aramid fiber Kevlar 49, 5.1 ends(threads) / cm Weft: aramid fiber Kevlar 49, 5.1 ends / cm MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF ARAMID FIBER USED Tensile strength (MPa): 2900 Elongation at break (%): 2.5
  • 12. Price: 21.68 euro / sq.m. CARBON FABRIC Areal weight: 205 g / sq.m. Weaving style: Plain Width: 1.27 meters Warp: carbon fiber, Weft: carbon fiber, MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF CARBON FIBER USED Tensile strength (MPa): 4900 Elongation at break (%): 2.1
  • 13. Point paper diagram of a plain weave fabric.
  • 14. Warp-faced plain fabrics • Generally have a much higher warp cover factor than weft cover factor. • If warp and weft yarns of similar linear density are used, a typical warp faced plain may have twice as many warp ends as picks.
  • 15. Weft-faced plain fabrics Produced by using much higher weft cover factors than warp cover factors Weft-faced plains are little used because they are more difficult to weave.
  • 16. Rib fabrics • The simplest modifications of plain weave fabrics. • Produced by lifting two or more warp threads and/or two or more picks at the same time. • It results in larger warp and/or weft covered surface areas than in a plain weave fabric.
  • 17. Matt fabrics (or hopsack) • The simplest of the matt weaves is a 2/2 where two warp ends are lifted over two picks • Matt weave fabrics can be woven with higher cover factors and have fewer intersections. • In close constructions they may have better abrasion and better filtration properties and greater resistance to water penetration. • In more open constructions matt fabrics have a greater tear resistance and bursting strength.
  • 18. Twill fabrics A twill is a weave that repeats on three or more ends and picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of a fabric. Such lines generally run from selvedge to selvedge. The direction of the diagonal lines on the surface of the cloth are generally described as a fabric is viewed along the warp direction.
  • 19. When the diagonal lines are running upwards to the right they are ‘Z twill’ or ‘twill right’ and when they run in the opposite direction they are ‘S twill’ or ‘twill left’ 3 x 3 Twill weaves. (a)2/1 Twill with Z twill line, (b)2/1 twill with S twill line, (c)1/2 twill with Z twill line, (d)1/2 twill with S twill line, (e)four repeats of (a) (2/1 twill with a Z twist line).
  • 20.
  • 21.
  • 22. Twill fabrics • For any construction twills will have longer floats, fewer intersections and a more open construction than a plain weave fabric with the same cloth particulars. • Broken twills, waved twills, herringbone twills are extensively used for suiting and dress fabrics. • The smallest repeat of a twill weave consists of 3 ends x 3 picks.
  • 23. Satins and sateens in Britain Satin Sateen • A satin is a warp-faced weave • A sateen, frequently referred to as a ‘weft sateen’, is a weft- • Satins normally have a much faced weave . greater number of ends than • Sateens are generally woven picks per centimeter. with a much higher number of picks than ends. • To avoid confusion a satin is frequently described as a ‘warp satin’.
  • 24.
  • 25. Use of Satins and Sateens Satins and sateens are widely used in uniforms, industrial and protective clothing
  • 26.
  • 27. Triaxial weaves • Two sets of warp yarns are generally inserted at 60° to the weft
  • 28. Triaxial weaves The tear resistance, bursting resistance of Triaxial fabrics is greatly superior to that of standard fabrics They have a wide range of technical applications including sailcloths, tyre fabrics, balloon fabrics.
  • 29. Crimp
  • 30. Classification of Weaving Machines • Single-phase weaving machines – Machines with shuttles (looms): • Hand operated (hand looms) • Non-automatic power looms (weft supply in shuttle changed by hand) • Automatic weaving machines – Shuttle less weaving machines: • Projectile In single phase machines, one weft thread is laid • Rapier across the full width of the warp sheet followed by the beat-up and the formation of the next shed • Jet machines in preparation for the insertion of the next pick. – air (with or without relay nozzles) – liquid (generally water) In multiphase machines, several phases of the working cycle take place • Multiphase weaving machines at any instant so that several picks are being inserted simultaneously.
  • 31. Shedding Mechanisms Crank Cam or tappet Dobbies Jacquards
  • 33. Projectile looms… • They are used not only for weaving a vast range of standard fabrics but also for heavy industrial fabrics of up to 8m wide, for – sailcloth, – conveyor belts, – tyre cord fabrics, – awnings, – Geotextiles, – airbags and – a wide range of filter fabrics of varying area density and porosity.
  • 34. L680W series high-efficiency fibre glass rapier cross weaving machine Suitable for the weaving of various gridding cloth used in civil engineering, hydraulic construction, building materials, chemical engineering ann transportation areas
  • 35. OMNI plus 800 air jet weaving machine • Gauze – Gauze is a lightweight, open-texture fabric produced in plain weave, used for bandages, food wrapping etc. • Parachute – Parachute is industrial, heavy-filament, rib stop cloths made of fine nylon fibre • Tyre cord – Tire cord is a fabric used to reinforce the tires of vehicles
  • 36. OMNI plus 800 air jet weaving machine • Umbrella cloth – Umbrella cloth is usually made with a cotton warp and rayon or nylon filling, which is then treated to make it water repellent. • Camping tent cloth – Camping tent cloth is a fabric used for the outer covering of tents for recreational camping.
  • 37. OptiMax rapier weaving machine Conveyer belt Conveyor belt is a continuously moving strip or surface for transporting a load of objects from one place to another. Filter cloth Filter cloths are mainly made up of monofilaments and/or multifilament's.
  • 38. Woven either on rapier or air-jet technology • Sail cloth – Sail cloth is any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon etc. that is used for sails and apparel. • Seat fabrics – Seat fabrics are used to cover seats in the transport industry (automotive, aviation, etc.) • Air bags – Airbag is a heavy denier nylon fabric for personal protection in various forms of transportation. – Most airbag fabrics are woven with rapier weaving technology.