Cosmetics biological aspects

Prepared By: Dolly Sadrani
Department of Pharmaceutics
IInd Sem M.Pharma
1

Cosmetics – Biological aspects
 Structure of skin
 Functions of Skin
 Skin relating problem like,
Dry skin
Acne
Pigmentation
Prickly heat
Wrinkles
Body odor
 Structure of hair
 Hair growth cycle
 Problem associated with Hair
 Questions
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Skin:
 Skin is the largest organ of the body, accounting
for about 15% of the total adult body weight.
3

Layers of Skin:
 Epidermis :
Outer layer that is s barrier to infection
“superficial” Made up of stratified squamous
epithelial cells.
 Dermis:
Middle layer that contains nerves, Hair roots,
Sweat and oil glands and blood vessels.
 Hypodermis:
Fat, blood vessels and connective tissue that
help to maintain body temperature.
5

Epidermis:
 Epidermis divided in to different regions:
1. Stratum corneum
2. Stratum lucidum
3. Stratum granulosum
4. Stratum spinosum
5. Stratum basal
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Epidermis:
1. Stratum corneum:-consist of 25 to 30 layers of
flatened dead keratinocytes. Which makes it
water repellent.
2. Stratum Lucidum: Smooth, translucent layer
of the epidermis. This thin layer of cell is found
only in the thick skin of the palms and soles.
Stratum Lucidum is responsible for the
capability of the skin to stretch. It also contain
protein which is responsible for degeneration of
skin cells.
3. Stratum granulosum:- consist of 3 to 5 layers
& under goes apoptosis. It contains granules
know as keratohyalin. These granules release
lipid rich secretion, which acts as the water
repellent.
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4. Stratum spinosum:- contain 8 to 10 layers of
cells & it is closely arranged.
5. Stratum basal:-consist of single layer of
cubical or columnar keratinocytes.
Dermis:
 Dermis lies between the epidermis and
subcutaneous layer and contains many type of
sensory receptor for touch, pressure, vibration,
pain, temperature etc.
 The type of cells located in the dermis are:
Fibroblasts, Mast cells, Histocytes.
 Hair follicles, nerves , lymphatic vessels and
sweat glands. 9

Hypodermis:
 Deep to skin and also known as subcutaneous
tissue.
 Consist of loose connective tissue with collagen
and elastic fibers.
 Main type of cells in hypodermis are : Fibroblast,
Adipose tissue, Macrophages.
 Functions as: Energy source and Insulation.
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Functions of Skin:
 It performs many vital functions, including
protection against external physical, chemical,
as well as prevention of excess water loss from
the body and a role in thermoregulation.
 Protection: against pathogens. Langerhans
cells in the skin are part of the immune system.
 Storage: Stores lipid (fat) and water.
 Sensation: nerve ending detect temperature,
pressure, vibration, touch and injury.
 Control water loss: the skin prevent water
from escaping by evaporation.
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 Water resistance: it prevents nutrients from
being washed from the skin.
 Thermoregulation: by producing sweat and
dilating blood vessels, the skin helps keep
the body cool. “Goosebumps” and blood
vessel constriction, help us retain heat.
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Dry Skin:
 Dry skin has a low level of sebum and can be
prone to sensitivity.
 which refers to rough, flaky, or scaly skin that is
less flexible than normal and dry to feel.
 The dry skin is the common problem in all age
groups, but more in elderly individuals.
 The water content of the stratum corneum play
important role for maintaining the normal
appearance and texture of skin.
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 It usually feels ‘tight”.
 Uncomfortable after washing.
 Chapping and cracking are signs of dehydrated
skin.
 It looks dull, mainly on the cheeks and around
the eyes.
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Causes:
 Poor diet, nutritional deficiencies, and especially
deficiencies of vitamin A and the vitamin B can
also contribute to dry skin.
 Dry skin is not a sign of skin diseases, but is
simply caused by harsh soaps, itchy clothing,
exposure to sun, cold environment, chemicals
and long hot showers.
 The oil glands do not produce enough lubrication
to the skin which leads to dry skin.
 Medications you take and even medical
conditions such as diabetes, hypothyroidism,
malnutrition can also cause severe dry skin.
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How to Care for Dry Skin:
 Skip long hot shower.
 Use a gentle cleanser or shower gel with
moisturizer.
 Go for soap free or mild soap cleansers instead
of harsh cleanser.
 Moisturize while skin is moist, moisturizer
increases the water content of the outer layers
of skin and gives it a soft look.
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Diet Recommendation for
Dry Skin:
 Fatty fish like trout contain high amount of
omega-3 fatty acid which help to retain moisture
and strengthen your skin.
 vitamin E is one of the most important anti-
oxidant for skin.
 Water rich low sugar fruits and vegetables are
great way to hydrate and protect skin from
dryness.
 Drink plenty of water every day to keep your
skin hydrated.
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 Green tea loaded with skin nourishing
antioxidants, it has anti- inflammatory
properties that heal damaged skin.
 Eat items such as vegetables, Eggs, fishes,
Nuts like almonds, Asparagus that are high
in sulphur, which help keep your skin soft
and shiny.
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 Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that
occurs when oil and dead skin cells blocks the
pore opening which causing sebum to build up
in side the pores.
 Acne is affected by two major factors: heredity
and hormones.
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Stages of acne formation:
 Clogged pores: cells lining pores shed and mix
with excess sebum production by sebaceous
glands forming a plug which leads to clogged
pores.
 Bacteria : accumulation sebum and dead cells
attach with bacteria naturally found in skin,
which feeds on oil and multiplication occur
inside pore.
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Treatment of Acne:
 Use cleansers for oily skin toners also help
to remove excess sebum.
 Avoid using fatty skin care and cosmetic
products; use non comedogenic
products(designed and proven not to clog
the follicles).
 Do not use harsh products or over clean
acne-prone skin as this can lead to
inflammation.
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 Mild and moderate cases of acne can be
treated by trained salon and spa etc.
 Use anti-androgen, anti-biotic like
tetracycline, cotrimoxazole to stop growth
of bacteria and reduce inflammation.
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 Pigmentation means colouring.
 Skin pigmentation disorders affect the colour of
skin.
 Skin gets its colour from pigment called
melanin.
 It occur due to the deposition of the melanin,
which is produce by specialized cells called
melanocytes with in melanosomes and
transferred to keratinocytes.
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 Melasma: tan or dark skin discoloration.
Melasma is thought to be caused by sun
exposure, genetic predisposition, hormone
change and skin irritation.
 Lentigo: A condition marked by small brown
patches on the skin, typically in elderly people.
 Latrogenic hyperpigmentation: due to
excessive production of melanin.
 Post acneic hyperpigmentation: Inflammatory
disorder of the skin. Observed in darken skin
types.
 Vitiligo: A condition in which the pigment is
lost from areas of the skin, causing whitish
patches.
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Treatment:
 Topical prescription medication such as 4%
hydroquinone are often use to treat
hyperpigmentation.
 Aloe Vera contain aloin, a natural depigmenting
compound.
 Gentle cryotherapy use to treat variety of
lesions.(in very low temp.)
 OTC brightening product that contain licorice
root, pine tree, vitamin E, vitamin C.
 Drugs used to treat pigmentation :
corticosteroids, azelaic acid, Trichloro acetic
acid Retinoic acid, Glycolic acid.
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Cryotherapy / Cold therapy:
39

 Heat rash is the generic group name for a
number of skin problems that arise or worsen
because of heat exposure.
 Common names for heat rash include prickly
heat, sweat retention syndrome (SRS) and "sun”
allergy.
 This disorder occurs all year round in the
tropics, and elsewhere in the summer months
when the weather is hot and humid.
 It is most commonly seen from March to
September especially in visitors from cooler
climates.
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Causes of Prickly Heat:
 Heat rash is caused by a blockage of the sweat
glands, especially after repeated episodes of
sweating, leading to inflammation when sweat
escapes into adjacent tissue.
 This causes the itching and prickling sensations
that most people seek treatment for as well as
the red rash, which may be extensive.
42

Treatment Advice:
 Remain in a cool environment e.g. air
conditioning, or close to a fan, and allow for
adequate ventilation of the skin.
 Take cool showers or baths, several times a
day, and always after exercise or heat
exposure.
 Always dry the skin with a tissue, do not rub
vigorously.
 Use cool packs on affected areas.
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 Wrinkles are lines and furrow that form in your
skin.
 These are especially noticeable around your
mouth, neck, hands, and eyes.
Causes:
Smoking: Smoking can accelerate the normal
aging process of your skin, contributing to
wrinkles.
 This may be due to changes in the blood supply
to your skin.
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Repeated facial expressions: Facial movements
and expressions, such as squinting or smiling,
lead to fine lines and wrinkles.
 Each time you use a facial muscle, a groove
forms beneath the surface of the skin.
 And as skin ages, it loses its flexibility and is no
longer able to spring back in place.
 These grooves then become permanent features
on your face.
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Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light: Ultraviolet
radiation, which speeds the natural aging
process, is the primary cause of early wrinkling.
 Exposure to UV light breaks down your skin's
connective tissue; collagen and elastin fibers,
which lie in the deeper layer of skin (dermis).
Age: As you get older, your skin naturally
becomes less elastic and more fragile.
 Decreased production of natural oils dries your
skin and makes it appear more wrinkled.
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Treatment:
Topical retinoids: Derived from vitamin A,
retinoids - such as tretinoin (Renova, Retin-A)
and tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac) that you apply
to your skin may reduce fine wrinkles, splotches
and skin roughness.
 Because retinoids can make your skin burn more
easily, you'll need to use a broad-spectrum
sunscreen and wear protective clothing daily.
 Retinoids may cause redness, dryness, itching,
and a burning sensation.
50

Nonprescription wrinkle creams: The
effectiveness of antiwrinkle creams depends in
part on the active ingredients.
 Retinol, antioxidants and some peptides may
result in slight to modest improvements in
wrinkles.
Rhytidectomy: is a type of cosmetic surgery
procedure used to give a more youthful facial
appearance.
51

Body odor:
 Body odor is the unpleasant smell of our bodies
can give off when bacteria that live on the skin
break down sweat in to acid.
 Body odor caused by the combination of sweat
and bacteria normally found in skin.
53

Causes:
 Emotional Factors: Anxiety, stress,
embarrassment, etc
 Underlying Medical Conditions: A large no. of
medical conditions and prescription drugs can
cause excessive sweating.
 Hereditary Predisposition: Its very common
for excessive sweating to run in the family.
54

Prevention:
 A large concentration of apocrine glands is
present in the armpits, making that area
susceptible to the rapid development of body
odor.
 The following steps may help control armpit
odor:
- Keep the armpits clean: Wash them regularly
using antibacterial soap, and the number of
bacteria will be kept low, resulting in less body
odor.
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- Hair: When armpits have hair, it slows down the
evaporation of sweat, giving the bacteria more
time to break it down into smelly substances.
- Deodorant or antiperspirant: Deodorants make
the skin more acidic, making it more difficult for
bacteria to thrive. An antiperspirant blocks the
sweating action of the glands, resulting in less
sweating.
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Treatment:
 Wash daily with warm water: Have a shower or
bath at least once a day. Remember that warm
water helps kill off bacteria that are present on
your skin. If the weather is exceptionally hot,
consider bathing more often than once a day.
 Clothing: Natural fibers allow your skin to
breathe, resulting in better evaporation of sweat.
Natural-made fibers include wool, silk or cotton.
57

 Aluminium chloride: This substance is usually
the main active ingredient in antiperspirants.
 Avoid spicy foods: Curry, garlic, and other
spicy foods have the potential to make some
people's sweat more pungent. Some experts
believe a diet high in red meat may also raise
the risk of developing more rapid body odor.
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Hair:
 Hair is a simple structure that is made up of
strong structural protein named as Kerotin.
 Hair is acts as a barrier to foreign particles.
 It’s an important part of appearance.
 Hair is the only body structure that can
completely renew itself without scarring.
 Hair is made up of two separate structures:
Hair follicle: which exist below the skin
Hair Shaft: which is the hair that we can see.
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Before hair growth can begin, a hair follicle must
be first created;
 The germinating layer of the epidermis starts
growing down into the dermis, and forms the
outside of each hair follicle.
 The dermis then grows upwards into the base of
the follicle to form the dermal papilla.
 This allows blood vessels to enter the papilla
and provide nutrients for the hair shaft to grow.
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 The bottom part of the follicle enlarges into an
area of actively growing cells. This is called the
hair bulb.
 At the base of the hair bulb, the germinating
layer merges into the outer root sheath (which
forms the inner wall of the follicles)
 The outer root sheath then forms the germinal
matrix (hair root) which surrounds the dermal
papilla.
 The germinal matrix grows the inner root sheath
(this is the white bit at the end of a hair if it’s
pulled out)
61

 Hair shaft cells are similar at first. But as they
move up through the follicle, they begin to
change shape, and a protein called keratin
develops inside the cells.
 Three different types of hair cell then form. By
the time these cells are a third of the way up the
follicle, they have dried and fully hardened
(keratinised).
 A sebaceous gland lies within each follicle. This
produces an oily substance called sebum from a
duct that opens up into the hair follicle about
halfway down from the skin surface.
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 The follicle also has a bulge directly below
the sebaceous gland in the outer root sheath
at the attachment point of the arrector pili
muscle.
 The bulge produces stem cells that
regenerate the follicle during the next hair
growth cycle.
 When the arrector pili muscle contract, they
make your hair stand on end (this is what
causes goosebumps).
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 There are mainly 3 glands are involve in hair.
The epidermis is known as hair shaft.
 The hair shaft is comprised of three layers:
cuticle, cortex and medulla.
• The innermost layer (known as the medulla)
only present in large thick hairs
• The middle layer ( known as the cortex) which
gives the hair its strength, texture and colour.
• The outermost layer ( known as the cuticle) a
thin and colourless layer that is defensively to
prevent damage to the hair’s inner structure and
to control water content of hair fibre.
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 The dermal papilla contains the blood supply
and nerves that produce nutrient for the hair.
 These vital nutrients are needs in order for hair
to grow.
 The dermal papilla is shaped similar to a cone
and sits inside the hair bulb.
 The oil glands of the skin are called sebaceous
glands.
 These glands are connected to the hair follicle
and secret sebum, an oily substance that
lubricates the hair.
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Hair Growth Cycle:
 Hair growth cycle comprises of 4 phases.
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1) Anagen phase (Growing phase):
 The growing phase last 2-7 years and determine
the length of hair.
 Hair grows around half an inch a month and
faster in summer than winter. The anagen phase
last and average of 3-5 years, a full length hair
averages 18-30 inches.
 The anagen phase is generally longer in Asian
and last as much as 7 years with hair being able
to grow to one meter.
68

2) Catagen ( Transition phase):
 This is the transitional phase that last about
10 days.
 The hair folecule shrink and detouches from
the dermal capillla.
70

3) Talogen phase (Resting phase):
 This is the resting phase which are less around 3
month.
 Around 10- 15 % of hair are in this phase.
 The old hair is resting, a new hair begins the
growth phase.
 Lastly hair enters the alogen phase, hair is
release and false out.
71

 The follicle that remain inactive for 3 months
the whole process is repeated.
 During the talogen phase the follicle remains
dorement for 1- 4 months.
 Each hair follicle is independent and grows
through the growth cycle at different times,
otherwise all hair will fall out at once.
 1-50 % of the hair are in this phase growth at
any event time.
72

 At some point the follicle begin to grow again,
softening the anchor point and hair base will
break free from the root and the hair will be
shed.
 Within 2 weeks new hair shaft will begin to
emerge once the talogen phase is complete.
4) Exogen phase:
 This is the part of resting phase where the old
hair falls and new hair continuous to grow.
 The thickness, texture and shape of the hair is
determine in this stage.
73

 The following factors create an interruption of
the normal cycle causing excessive hair loss:
- Stress
- Change in diet
- Drugs
- Illness
- Post pregnancy
75

Problem associated with Hair:
Dandruff: Dandruff, scaly particles that cling to
the root of the hair, can be caused by a poor diet,
an infection, or even a sluggish metabolism.
Hair loss: Although historically discussed as a
problem among men, hair loss or thinning hair is
also common among women.
 For most men, it may be male pattern balding.
Female hair loss is often caused by stress,
medication, changing hormone and even
menopause.
 Additionally, many hair styling products
(Chemicals / excessive heat) can contribute to
hair loss.
76

Dry hair: Shampooing too often causes dry hair.
Although squeaky - clean hair is a good thing,
many overdo it by washing once, sometimes
twice, per day.
 That will strip away all of the hair’s natural oils.
Spit ends: Over- brushing hair, excessive
perming, too much heat and lack of good
conditioner cause split ends.
Oily or greasy hair: oily hair is caused when the
scalp produces too much of a natural oil called
sebum.
 sebum is produce by sebaceous glands which
can sometimes overtime, resulting in excessive
amounts of oil.
77

Frizzy hairs: frizzy hairs occurs when the hair’s
moisture level falls below normal levels and it
can also be hereditary.
Dull hair: There are many causes of dull-looking
hair- chemical or heat-styling damage and
environmental soils.
Heat damaged hair: use your curling iron or flat
iron too much and your hair become damaged.
Colour damaged hair: when you colour your
hair, chemicals are used to open your shaft,
leaving your hair extremely porous and prone to
brittleness and breakage.
78

Questions:
1. Draw and explain labeled structure of skin.
2. Explain structure of hair and hair growth cycle
with diagram.
3. Explain functions and disorder of skin.
4. Discuss the problems associated with hairs.
79

Thank you
For
Your
Attention!
80

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