Acne is a dermatological problem affected by an estimated 65 million people worldwide. This presentation is based on the changes on the skin in relation to the problem 'acne'.

1. Structure of skin relating to
the problem: ACNE
COSMETICS & COSMECEUTICALS
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
PRESENTED BY,
ANIT JOJI GEORGE
M. PHARM
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS

2. INTRODUCTION
 Skin is the largest organ of the body. It’s not
uniformly thick at all parts of the body.
 Skin diseases are common in clinical practice, more
so in the warm and humid topical countries. This
includes dry skin, acne, pigmentation, prickly heat,
wrinkles, body odor etc.
 Skin forms a barrier between the organism and its
external environment. The skin, the target tissue of
drug treatment, is also a route of drug administration.
It can act as a drug reservoir and is also a site for drug
metabolism.
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS

3. STRUCTURE OF SKIN
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
Layers of Skin
 Epidermis
 Dermis
 Subcutaneous tissue

4. STRUCTURE OF SKIN
• Epidermis is the outer layer of the skin, formed by stratified epithelium. It
does not have blood vessels. Nutrition is provided to the epidermis by the
capillaries of dermis. It is formed by five layers:
 Stratum corneum
 Stratum lucidum
 Stratum granulosum
 Stratum spinosum
 Stratum germinativum
• Dermis is the inner layer of the skin. It is a connective tissue layer, made of
dense and stout collagen fiber, fibroblasts and histiocytes. Collagen fibers
exhibit elastic property and are capable of storing or holding water.
• Subcutaneous tissue is a fibro-fatty layer with varying quantities of
adipose tissues in different regions of the body. This layer provides
physical and thermal protection to the deeper structures of the body.
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS

5. ACNE
Acne vulgaris: chronic inflammatory disease of the
pilosebaceous unit (comprising the hair follicle, hair
shaft and sebaceous gland) and is among the most
common dermatological conditions worldwide, with
an estimated 650 million people affected.
Acne neonatorum: those happen in male newborns,
due to the temporary effect of androgens, presentin
mother’s blood.
Acne cosmetica: type of acne that is generated by the
use of certain cosmetic materials, and these type of
materials are known to be ‘comedogenic’.
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS

6. ACNE VULGARIS
• Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit
(comprising the hair follicle, hair shaft and sebaceous gland) and is among
the most common dermatological conditions worldwide, with an estimated
650 million people affected.
• Pathophysiological features of Acne
 Increased sebum production by the sebaceous glands.
 Hyperkeratinisation and excessive desquamation of epithelial cells from the
walls of the hair follicle, leading to blockade of the follicular openings.
 Formation of comedone, a fleshy , hyper-keratotic plug blocking the
opening of the pilo-sebaceous follicle (’Black’ and ‘White’ heads).
 Proliferation of locally present Propionibacterium acnes and a few
Staphylococci. These bacteria split the sebaceous fat to form irritant fatty
acids.
 Local inflammation
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS

7. ACNE VULGARIS
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
Clinical presentation of acne vulgaris. Acne
lesions, including comedones (white arrows),
papule (yellow arrow) and pustule (black arrow)
on the facial skin.
Causes
of Acne
vulgaris
Systemic
and local
hormone
imbalance
Genetics
Alterations
in the free
fatty acid
compositio
n of sebum.
Smoking
Diet
Modern
lifestyle

8. ACNE VULGARIS
Acne Formation
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
Schematic representation of the skin containing a
sebaceous unit comprising the hair follicle and the
sebaceous gland, which is responsible for sebum
production.
Acne formation starts when sebum and keratinous
material shed from the skin clog up a pore and
trigger bacterial colonization, leading to a closed or
whitehead comedone .

9. ACNE VULGARIS
Acne Formation
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
As the whitehead comedone continues to expand,
owing to more accumulation of sebum and
keratinous material, the follicular orifice opens and
forms an open or blackhead comedone.
The black colour is the result of oxidized lipids
and the skin pigment melanin. More distension of
the comedone results in follicular rupture and
inflammatory lesions such as papules.

10. ACNE VULGARIS
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
Acne Formation
Or it can be pustules (part e) and nodules or cysts (part f). Nodular acne is
sometimes inaccurately referred to as ‘cystic’ or ‘nodulocystic’ acne. An acne
cyst is not a true cyst as true cysts are lined by epithelium.

11. ACNE VULGARIS
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS

12. TREATMENT OF ACNE
 Use cleansers for oily skin toners helps to remove excess sebum.
 Avoid using fatty skin care and cosmetic products; use non-comedogenic
products.
 Do not use harsh skin products over acne-prone skin, as this may lead to
inflammation.
 Mild and moderate cases of acne can be treated by trained salon and spa.
 Use anti-androgen, antibiotic (tetracycline, cotrimoxazole) to stop growth of
bacteria and reduce inflammation.
 Drug used in the treatment of Acne
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS
 Cleansers: Soaps (gentle)
 Comedolytics: Local Tretinoin, Adapalene
 Exfoliants(peeling agents): Salicylic acid
 Hormones: Estrogen
 Antibacterial drugs:
Local: Erythromycin, Clindamycin, Azelaic acid, Benzoyl peroxide
Systemic: Tetracyclines, Erythromycin, Minocycline, Cotrimoxazole

13. REFERENCES
1. K. Sembulingam, Prema Sembulingam; Essentials of Medical Physiology;
6th edition.
2. R.S.Satoskar, Nirmala N. Rege, S.D.Bhandarkar; Pharmacology and
Pharmacotherapeutics;24th edition/2015.
3. Diane Thiboutot, James Q. Del Rosso; Acne Vulgaris and the Epidermal
Barrier; Skin structure and function: Translation of research to patient
care.
4. Sara Moradi Tuchayi, Evgenia Makrantonaki, Ruta Ganceviciene, Clio
Dessinioti, Steven R. Feldman,Christos C. Zouboulis; Acne Vulgaris;
2015.
COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS

14. COSMETICS-BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS