1. Before starting the work, make a thorough inspection of
the piece after you have removed the old finish. You may
find holes, dents, cracks and other damage that were not
previously visible in the surface that will require repairs
before preparing for the new finish.
2. Some of the procedures for preparing the surface are
seldom used, but are included to give you full knowledge
of them. They are bleaching, scraping, sanding, staining,
and filling.The choice of those to be used for a single job
are determined by the type and condition of the wood,
after the old finish has been removed. Some are necessary
according to conditions and some are a matter of choice.
4. Bleaching is used today mostly to remove undesirable
stains. After the old finish has been removed, any
darkened or discolored spots that remain can be lightened
or entirely removed by the proper use of bleach. When
working with pine or maple, it is best to remove
discoloration and freshen up the surface.
6. There are four common bleaches used by home handymen
to lighten wood or remove undesirable stains. They are:
PREPARED BLEACH, The simplest method of getting a good
bleach is to buy a prepared bleach, which usually comes in
the form of two solutions that may be applied successively
or mixed together, according to directions on the
label.These bleaches are sold in some paint stores or
through mail order outlets. HOUSEHOLD
PRODUCTS, Sometimes a laundry bleach in which sodium
hypo-chlorite is the bleaching agent is effective for such
woods as walnut, maple, and gum. Household ammonia is
a good bleaching for all but dark woods,however,it is best
for spot work only. OXALIC ACID, This bleach works only
when a mild bleach is needed. It can be used successfully
for such open-grained woods as oak, chestnut, and
8. This two-solution bleach must be intermixed or applied in
successive steps. All contain strong chemicals so it's
important that you wear rubber gloves to protect your
hands. An apron or old clothing should also be worn since
these bleaches will attack most fabrics and follow the
label directions carefully. These are best for overall work.
They are difficult to control when spot bleaching. The
bleach can be applied with a brush or sponge and should
be allowed to dry on the surface until the desired effect is
reached. The instructions will tell you whether
neutralization or rinsing is required. After bleaching and
rinsing is completed, the piece should be allowed to stand
until completely dry. Then sand lightly with a very fine
sandpaper to remove raised grain. Be careful not to sand
more deeply than the bleach has penetrated.
10. Most household products are better for spot work. This is
how to use laundry bleach and ammonia as bleaching
agents. First,apply the product full strength over the spot
or surface of the wood. Next, wash the product off with
clear water after it has been on the surface about 15
minutes. Check to see if the desired color has been
attained. If not, repeat the treatment. When the right
color has been achieved, rinse the entire surface with
water. Let the furniture stand to dry for at least 48 hours.
12. Oxalic acid can be purchased at a drugstore or in some
paint stores. It comes in powder or crystal form. Start by
dissolving 1 ounce of powder or 2 ounces of crystals in a
pint of very hot water. Using a large brush, apply the
solution hot to the entire surface from which the finish
has been removed. Let the solution remain for 10 to 20
minutes and then wipe it off with a damp cloth. Repeat if
necessary to reach the color you are after. When the
proper result is reached, wash off with 1 part ammonia in
10 parts of water. This will neutralize the bleach and stop
it's further action.Then wash with clear water and let it
dry for at least 24 hours.
14. The smoothing of a wood surface is done with sandpaper
by first working with relatively coarse papers, followed by
those of finer grit. Steel wool is often used for final
smoothing.
16. The sanding of a wood surface is the least difficult of all
the procedures, yet it is one of the most important parts
of refinishing and must always be done thoroughly and
with great care. When sanding, remember these three
rules. First always sand with the grain of the wood--never
across the grain.Second, use straight strokes with an even
pressure, avoiding a twisting or circular motion, and
last, use a paper of as coarse a grit as the wood will stand
without scratching, then finer ones until the surface is as
smooth as the wood will become. After sanding with the
finest grit paper, use a steel wool pad for the final
smoothing. After using the steel wool, all dust must be
removed by wiping with a tack rag. This is a cloth that is
treated to attract and hold dust. It is usually available at
pant dealers that handle wood finishes.