Tourist magazine -the premier publication for informed traveler - will help you feed your passion for travel and authentic cultural experiences. Tourist magazine strives to bring you the best finds in arts and culture, the outdoors, and travel adventure. Our editors and contributors live in different parts of the world and deliver the most fascinating stories and trip ideas.
Beginners Guide to TikTok for Search - Rachel Pearson - We are Tilt __ Bright...
Tourist magazine March/April Issue
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5. TOURIST
MARCH-APRIL 2011
Bath 8 Historical Treasure of England.
Text by Lucy Weaver. Photographs by Colin Hawkins
Puerto Rico 14 Enchanted Island.
Text and photographs by Edita Klinkel
Eric Meola 18 Masterpieces of Photographer Eric Meola.
Text by Lesya Hoover
Amish 24 Culture, Beliefs and Lifestyle.
Text by Aleksandra Chervinski.
Photography by Bill Coleman - internationally acknowledged
photographer of the Amish
Colorado 30 A state of Springs and Sunshine
Text and photography by Natalia Fodemski
Excerpt: 32 A True Tale of Faith, Greed and Forgery in the Holy Land
Unholy Business By Nina Burleigh - an award-winning author and journalist
PHOTO BY ERIC MEOLA: SHEETS
9. NOuRISHEd BY NATuRAL HOT SPRINGS,
BATH OFFERS A uNIQuE EXPERIENCE WITH
STuNNING ARCHITECTuRE, GREAT SHOPPING
ANd ICONIC ATTRACTIONS.
10. Сцена из жизни индейцев в парке “Источник молодости“
Бат - один из красивейших городов Англии. Он естественных термальных водах.
окружен живописными окрестностями, холмами Минеральные источники наряду с великолепной
и зелеными долинами, покрытыми пышной архитектурой и прекрасными музеями обеспечиваеют
растительностью, и знаменит своими целебными притягательность этого города для туристов, которые
горячими источниками и древнеримскими термами приезжают сюда со всего мира. По инициативе ЮНЕСКО
(собственно, и само название переводится с английского город Бат, который принимает посетителей уже более
как “баня”). Расположен он в 160 километрах к западу от двух тысяч лет, был занесен в список памятников
Лондона (полтора часа на поезде от вокзала Паддингтон). мирового культурного наследия человечества. В
Приезжайте в Бат и откройте для себя этот уникальный городе Бат имеется большое количество прекрасно
город, который является одним из самых значительных сохранившихся памятников архитектуры среди них
мировых архитектурных шедевров. необходимо выделить наиболее примечательные:
Интересно, что Бат – это единственный из римских Королевский полумесяц (Royal Crescent - жилая улица
городов в Англии, который строился не как крепость, а из 30 домов в форме полумесяца), Цирк ( the Circus) и
как центр отдыха. Рядом с термальными источниками знаменитый мост Палтни-Бридж, построенный в 1773
располагался древний кельтский храм речной богине году.
Сулис (Сулис-Минерва в римской интерпретации), что, В центре города рядом со старинным аббатством
по мнению римлян, придавало воде особую целебную находится знаменитый музей - Римские бани. В месте,
силу, поэтому первоначально город назывался Аква где находится единственный в Великобритании горячий
Сулис. источник, римляне, большие любители лечебных вод,
Но Бат вовсе не похож на музей, это полный построили великолепный замок и банный комплекс,
жизни современный город, в котором по последнему который в настоящее время отреставрирован и представлен
слову техники возведен оздоровительный курорт в своем первоначальном виде. Вода постоянно наполняет
с минеральными источниками - единственное в просторный открытый бассейн, ядро комплекса. Вы
Великобритании место, где можно расслабиться в можете прогуляться здесь по тем самым мостовым, по
11. TEXT LUCY WEAVER
PHOTOGRAPHS BY COLIN HAWKINS
Dip into Bath
and you’ll discover one of the world’s
architectural masterpieces. Nestled in a
sheltered valley and surrounded by lush
countryside, Bath is nourished by natural
hot springs – the same thermal spa harnessed
by the Romans.
F
ar from a museum piece, Bath is a vibrant, still flows with natural hot water. See the water’s source and
modern city, boasting a stunning 21st century walk where Romans walked on the ancient stone pavements
spa complex – the only place in the UK where around the steaming pool. The extensive ruins and treasures
you can relax in natural thermal waters. The from the spring are beautifully preserved and presented using
baths, together with the city’s fabulous architecture and ex- the best of modern interpretation. Above the Museum you
cellent museums, ensure Bath retains its appeal to visitors can taste the waters, take a meal and enjoy being serenaded
across the world. with live classical music in the 18th century Pump Room.
The golden city of Bath has been welcoming visitors for Head across the road and you’ll discover the 21st cen-
over 2,000 years. Designated by UNESCO as a World Heri- tury answer to the Roman Baths: the Thermae Bath Spa.
tage Site, Bath presents some of the finest architectural sights Here, you can bathe in the mineral-rich waters as the Romans
in Europe and when visiting the city architectural highlights and Celts once did thousands of years ago, in a modern spa
such as the Royal Crescent, the Circus and Pulteney Bridge complex. The Spa’s piece-de-resistance is its roof-top pool
are not to be missed. – open all year round – with stunning views of the surround-
At the heart of the city next to Bath Abbey is the Ro- ing cityscape. The Spa is affordable and accessible at just
man Baths Museum. Around Britain’s only hot spring, the £24 for a two-hour session. Pre-bookable treatments are also
Romans built a magnificent temple and bathing complex that available including the Spa’s relaxing signature treatment,
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12.
13. Watsu – the perfect way to unwind! Bath is also a celebrated shopping centre, with a reputa-
Bath has a wide variety of museums and galleries cover- tion that goes back to Georgian times. Set within a com-
ing all kinds of subjects that you wouldn’t expect including pact and accessible city centre Bath’s range of specialist and
the Fashion Museum, the American Museum in Britain and well-known stores leaves shoppers spoilt for choice. The city
the Museum of East Asian Art. There are also lots of attrac- has a high proportion of independent shops with an excel-
tions dedicated to Bath’s history – look out for the Build- lent choice of boutique, gift and homeware shops. You’ll
ing of Bath Collection which tells the story of how Bath was also find all the usual brand and high street names and the
designed and built, No. 1 Royal Crescent showing how a new SouthGate shopping area is a great place to shop till you
townhouse would have looked in its Georgian heyday and drop!
the Jane Austen Centre which celebrates Bath’s most famous And if all this leaves you feeling hungry or thirsty there is
resident. a mouthwatering selection of restaurants, pubs and tea shops
Yet Bath is not buried in the past! Festivals, theatre and on every street. Try a local delicacy, the Sally Lunn Bun,
vibrant street entertainment bring life and excitement to this at the oldest house in Bath, still made to the original secret
beautiful city. Theatre and festivals will also appeal to in- recipe, or enjoy afternoon tea in the elegant Pump Room.
ternational visitors, so the language barrier is not a problem! To make the most of Bath, there are guided walking
The well-reputed International Music Festival showcases top tours, open top bus tours and even balloon flights for a unique
musicians from around the globe and the Bath Christmas view of the city and surrounding countryside!
Market is a delight to behold as well as a great place to shop For further information visit the official tourism web-
in the cold, winter months. There is a year-round programme site: www.visitbath.co.uk or contact Bath Tourist Informa-
of festivals and events so if you’re visiting the city, check tion Centre for expert advice on +44 844 847 5257.
out www.visitbath.co.uk to make sure that you don’t miss
anything!
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15. THE ISLANd OF PuERTO RICO SEEMS TO SHOW VISITORS
THE MANY FACES OF EdEN: OVER 250 MILES OF BEACHES,
BEAuTIFuL dRY FORESTS, LuSH TROPICAL JuNGLES ANd
TOWERING MOuNTAINS. IT’S WORTH THE TRIP JuST TO
SEE PuERTO RICO, BuT THERE IS PLENTY TO dO AS WELL.
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16. TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDITA KLINKEL
Puerto Ricans call their country Enchanted Island,
and it is a good description of this corner of paradise. Its
warm climate all year round, sunny beaches, and wild sub-
tropical nature are a dream for any traveler.
P
laya de los Piñones is a famous beach area cook’s experienced hands. Our meals of traditional Cuban
in San Juan that you have to visit to consider and Puerto Rican food would not be complete without flan. I
your trip complete. You can pig out at one of even took a picture of it to remember the recipe: eggs, con-
the numerous fast-food places lining the beach, densed milk, vanilla – and don’t forget the caramel topping
making it easy for hungry vacationers to indulge in sinful before you shove it in the oven!
pleasures – oil-fried plantain pastries of many flavors (alca- Do you know what the main feature of the houses in San
purias), cod fried in dough (bacalao), and other local deli- Juan (the capital) is that you will not see in most places? The
cacies that only Puerto Ricans—and increasing numbers of bars on the windows. These are part of the landscape and
visitors to their beautiful home country—can relate to. very decorative. Every house has different bar designs. Each
Our hosts in San Juan were a Cuban family who moved pattern is distinct and matches the style of the house as if it
to Puerto Rico several years ago. Every morning, we came were trying to stand out at any cost. But the main purpose of
down for a tiny cup of Café Cubano, sometimes followed the bars is still very practical – it is the simplest protection
by a Cuban sandwich, a true masterpiece put together by the against robberies, too common in that part of the island.
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17. When I saw different patterns on And what a journey that was – through a true jungle,
the barred windows, my immediate re-
action was to make a collection of pic- climbing and squeezing between the rocks, sometimes on
tures reflecting the genuine art of the all fours, then continuing through lush greenery.
bar design, but it got me in the trouble.
I was told off and threatened several
times, and police were summoned on me, until it finally Lechonera is another local attraction. It is a restaurant
dawned on me – the inhabitants of the neighborhood didn’t serving smoked pig on a pit. We drove to the mountain area
see the bars as art but as a basic security measure. My pic- in Guavate to try the best meat ever, as our local hosts had
ture-taking was considered a threat to their security systems. promised. And the promise was fulfilled! The meat was
Of course, when we started talking on a friendlier note, the carved in front of our eyes with a machete and immediately
locals realized they were overdoing it a bit and told me the
history and origin of the intricate patterns. All of that hap-
pened later, after I proved that I was si, soy una turista de
America and not a criminal accomplice.
We had the pleasure of being invited to visit a gorgeous
mountain villa located in the central part of the island in Villa
Alba. There we were given Fourtrax ATVs, which the own-
ers used to drive on mountain terrain to reach their mountain
river. The vehicles took us as far as the trunk of a tree lying
across the road. It was too big of an obstacle for the small
vehicle to conquer, so we had to continue on foot.
served, still steaming, with several local side dishes–yellow
rice, boiled yucca, and local beer.
After dinner was party time. Puerto Ricans know how
to party! In a small mountain village, we saw rows of open
dance floors crammed with people enjoying themselves and
having fun. Couples of different ages were dancing their
heads off, following energetic Latin music rhythms. Music
competing between one dance floor and another created a
festive and uplifting mood for the crowds hanging around
and watching the dancers.
The trip to Puerto Rico was a short detour into the coun-
But the destination was worth the effort – we arrived at try of small and big wonders, its amazing nature and happy
a concealed waterfall, falling into a calm pool at the bottom. people leaving colorful memories of enjoyable culture.
We had to crawl under the hanging rock to finally jump into
the crystal clear but oh-how-cold water!
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19. Eric Meola
... Eric attempts to highlight the mysteriousness and the preciousness
of those last people in our world who believe in a sense of wonder, in
magic, mysticism, and the beauty of life.
- Robert Marthaller
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20. Eric Meola has gone to India and photographed every inch of it. He has brought back a vision of color un-
matched anywhere on earth. When a master of color photography meets India’s festival of colors, we have
the ultimate magical mystery tour! - Pete Turner
Eric Meola’s India is a stellar collection of images and a must-have for the coffee table. It offers the reader a
rare view of Indian culture filled with emotion, vibrant color and history. With this book, Eric has outdone him-
self. He has once again produced a book with images that are truly memorable. Eric brings back a collection
of images that most photographers would have missed even if they were standing next to him. The composi-
tion, color, and graphic appeal are a testament to one of America’s best photographers. This is a must-have
book. - Seth Resnick
Eric recalled : “When I went to Burma on this personal assignment right after shooting a big campaign for John-
nie Walker Scotch, I went through a sort of spiritual transformation. I came across this little boy getting his head
shaved in the ceremony called Becoming Buddha at the Schwe Dagon Pagoda in downtown Rangoon and it
was one of the most incredible things that I have ever seen in my life. Photographing him, getting that image,
changed me both spiritually and the way I, as a photographer, saw things visually.
I’m not sure that I can really explain how this all happened, but from that point on I just was empowered to walk
into those situations and make images. Nothing intimidated me, I didn’t try to steal the images, I didn’t try to force
my way into these situations. I was very aware of the personal space of the people that I was photographing, the
culture where I was, and the religion. I respected that, and yet somehow I had been given this key to walk into
these situations and make these images. It just was all transforming, and it started with being able to photograph
that little boy in Burma.”
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23. When I look at Eric Meola’s photographs, the energy of his images makes me believe in the
inevitable: “Beauty will save the world.”
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24. AMISH
Culture, Beliefs and Lifestyle
TEXT BY ALEKSANdRA CHERVINSKI
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL COLEMAN
internationally acknowledged photographer of the Amish.
www.amishphoto.com
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25. THERE IS A GROuP OF MORE THAN 200,000
PEOPLE IN THE uNITEd STATES WHOSE WAY
OF LIFE IS NOT SO dIFFERENT FROM THAT
OF THEIR ANCESTORS.
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26. T
These unique people are called Amish. Being deeply re-
hey live completely ligious people, the Amish are descendents of Swiss and Ger-
man Anabaptists who immigrated to the States in the early
off the land, use horse- eighteenth century. They believe in family values and the
drawn buggies instead of cars, Bible, and they live by the laws of their ancestors separately
from the rest of the world. The simple and peaceful lifestyle
and do not accept those basic of the Amish people is the subject of interest and curiosity.
Those who are unfamiliar with the Amish may wonder how
electric-powered appliances they manage to survive in what seem to be such harsh condi-
tions of hard manual labour and seclusion. But the truth is
that we take for granted (TV, radio, telephones etc.) They
that the Amish not only survive but thrive. Since 1960, the
prefer hard manual labour and simple living to nearly all
population of Amish people in Pennsylvania has tripled.
modern conveniences.
The Amish are born farmers. They grow all their own
The simplicity of these people is wide-ranging, includ-
food; they make butter, bread, and cheese; and they sell their
ing their clothes: men wear black suits and black hats with
products at the farmer’s markets of nearby cities.
beards (no mustache); women’s wardrobes consist of plain
The Amish use only manual labour, whether it’s plough-
dresses, usually dark grey or dark violet and made of thin
ing, harvesting, milking their cows, or cutting their grass. The
cloth similar to wool, which are worn with aprons (married
Amish also handcraft quilts and wood furniture. Homemade
women have black aprons while single women usually wear
chests, chairs, beds, and rocking chairs are integral parts of
white ones). Suits and dresses are made without a single but-
their homes.
ton, which are considered luxury items.
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27. Despite their separation from the rest of the world, inside fear if he or she decides to stay in the outside world. More
their communities the Amish are very close and are ready to than 80 percent of young people go back to the Amish com-
help one another when needed. A good example is barn rais- munity.
ing. Neighbors usually work for free, just helping their fellow Church rules called “Ordnung” have to be followed by
community members. all members. These rules touch upon most aspects of every-
It is typical for an Amish family to have many children. day life.The Amish are not allowed to serve in the Army, to
Their kids do not attend American public schools; they have be photographed, to drive cars and fly airplanes, or to own
their own one-room schools, where the children receive an computers, TV sets, radio, watches, or even wedding bands.
eight-year education. The Amish pay federal taxes but do not The Amish are allowed to marry only within their church.
pay Social Security taxes, which means they do not receive This is part of an unwritten moral code that has been passed
these benefits; the Amish take care of their seniors and sick on from generation to generation.
people themselves. The Amish follow Biblical commandments and laws
Young Amish people have the freedom to leave their very strictly. Among the main principles followed by the
church or to be baptized and stay in the Amish community. Amish are forgiveness and nonviolence. Is it easy to forgive
Parents let their teenagers live in the city for several years a person who badly hurt you? Of course not. Sometimes it’s
and make their own decision on whether they want to be- almost impossible. But the Amish have a different opinion.
come members of the Amish church. During that time, young October 2, 2006: There was no sign of trouble on that
Amish can try everything modern life has to offer. beautiful fall day. One could hear only birds signing in the
Shunning, or rejection by the family and the loss of fam- sky and the sounds of the buggies riding from time to time
ily blessings, is something every young Amish person has to on the village road. Everything seemed peaceful and quiet in
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28. Lancaster County, Pennsylvania – the Amish country. for only twenty minutes. Charles Roberts had raged against
Suddenly that silence was interrupted by shots fired in- God since the death of his infant daughter and wanted to get
side the small wooden Amish school. When policemen en- even.
tered the schoolhouse, they saw a terrible scene: ten girls On the morning of October 2nd, Charles Roberts said
from six to thirteen years old had been shot by Charles Rob- goodbye to his wife and two small children and went to the
erts, who was also dead; he had killed himself after commit- Amish school, West Nickel Mines School. He ordered teach-
ting this horrendous crime. Five of the ten victims of violence ers and boys to leave the school, tied up ten girls, and started
did not survive. to speak. He apologized for what he was about to do to the
School shootings are not unusual phenomena in the girls, but he said, “I’m angry at God, and I need to punish
American society, where violence is a fact of everyday life. some Christian girls to get even with Him. I’m going to make
Yet in the peaceful Amish community it became an unparal- you pay for my daughter.” Two sisters, Marian and Barbie
leled event, which affected everybody. This incident signi- Fisher, requested that they be shot so that the others might
fied the clash of two civilizations. To be more specific, the be spared.
modern civilization, which Amish try so hard to avoid, pen- At approximately 11:07 a.m., Roberts opened fire. Af-
etrated and struck something dearest to their hearts – their ter some time, the shooting abruptly stopped: Roberts had
children. committed suicide. Five of the ten victims of violence didn’t
Thirty-two-year-old milk truck driver Charles Roberts survive.
lived with his family in Nickel Mines Community. He was The whole country was touched by what had happened
not Amish but often served several Amish farms in that area, to the girls, by this terrible act of violence. But even more
where they started calling him “quiet milkman.” He had a shocking was the act of grace and forgiveness on behalf of
wife and three children. Charles was angry with God. Nine the Amish community toward the killer’s family.
years prior to the shooting, his wife, Amy, gave birth to their The act of violence brought great suffering to the Amish
first child, a girl they named Elise. But the child survived people but didn’t cause any wrath. There was pain but no
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30. A State of Springs and Sunshine
THE BEST OF COLORADO
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIA FODEMSKI
Located in Southwestern united States, Colorado
is a state unique for its rectangular shape and immensely varied
landscape of mountains, plains, mesas, canyons, rivers and plateaus.
T
he first thing that comes to mind on hear- Now this state has a population of almost 5.4 million peo-
ing about Colorado is the Rocky Mountains, ple. Almost half of the population resides in the state capital,
which cover more than sixty percent of the Denver, and its suburbs. Denver is a typical American mega-
state’s territory. These mountains have ex- polis with museums, stadiums, theatres, skyscrapers, and en-
ceptionally clean air and water, and delight tertainment centers. It is home to one of the largest aquatic
the curious explorer with clear skies, wildflowers and an over- parks in the USA, and also enclosed huge aquarium, which
all rich flora and fauna. has the rarest kinds of fish from all corners of the planet. The
The development and expansion of Colorado had begun second half of Colorado’s population is scattered between
some 140 years ago, influenced greatly by the region’s sunny Colorado Springs, Boulder, Fort Collins, Aspen, Pueblo,
dry climate, hot springs, mineral underground waters with Grand Junction, Estes Park, Trinidad, and dozen of smaller
healing properties and, most importantly, significant gold and towns.
silver deposits. Included in the names of many towns of Colorado is the
In the mid nineteenth century thousands of people came word «springs». There are such names as Colorado Springs,
to the almost uninhabited Wild West with the one purpose of Idaho Springs, Glenwood Springs, Manitou Springs, Pagosa
getting rich. However, overlooking gold, silver and many other Springs. Tourists often ask where are the springs themselves?
precious materials, Colorado’s land gave its people some- In Colorado Springs case you’d have to go to the small town
thing that no money could buy — good health and a cure for of Manitou Springs. Here you will find the source of these
tuberculosis. Almost 75% of sick people, who came south- healing waters. The springs were used by local Indian tribes
west, were able to recover and proceed with living a normal such as the Ute, Cheyenne, Arapaho and Kiowa long before
life. Nature itself made them patriots of the Coloradan soil. the white settlers came to the region. The word «manitou»
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31. had a meaning among native peoples of North America of the while time. More than 300,000 people go rafting down the
spiritual healing bubbling water. Therefore the area of Mani- fast Arkansas River every year! That is one popular extreme
tou Springs was considered sacred among the Indians. Tribal sport, supported by those who like water and want to receive
fights and wars were prohibited on this territory. In Manitou a healthy portion of adrenaline rush.
Springs you can feel the true atmosphere of the
«Wild West», the sort that we experience through
films and literature about the times of the Gold Rush Another sacred Indian territory is Garden
and the Western expansion. of the Gods in Colorado Springs. This is a
City of Colorado Springs is located sixty one
miles south of Denver, the geographical center of park created by nature and well known for its
Colorado. The median height of the town is 6100
feet above sea level. At the end of the nineteenth
red and white rocks of unusual shape.
century this town was nicknamed Little London
because of many English patients who had come
seeking a cure from lung diseases. Many of those people Colorado is a red state if you look at it from an airplane.
settled down in Colorado Springs. You don’t have to be an experienced rock-climber to get to the
Modern life in Colorado began in 1871 when General Wil- top of Pikes Peak: all tourists have this unique opportunity. It
liam Jackson Palmer founded a town near the picturesque can be done by car, by train, by bicycle and even on foot. You
mountain of Pikes Peak with the intention of creating a high can even run to the top if in excellent physical condition. Since
quality resort community. Today we can be sure that Palm- 1966 a marathon takes place each year in late summer. Pikes
er’s dream of creating a «Pearl of American West» has come Peak is the second (after Mount Fuji in Japan) most visited
true. mountain in the world with breathtaking panoramic views of
On average Colorado gets 320 sunny days a year, which the town and the seemingly endless snowcapped range of
is one of the main conditions for a good vacation. Sunny the Rocky Mountains. At the foot of the mountain there is
weather allows a variety of outdoor activities: excursions, hik- a unique Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. At Cheyenne Mountain,
ing, mountain skiing, bicycling, rock climbing, fishing, golf, where you’ll learn about wildlife in memorable ways, you can
swimming in open mineral pools, bird-watching, photography, feed a giraffe or closely observe grizzly bears or mountain li-
etc. Just rafting along the winding rivers makes it a worth- ons. However, all visitors of Colorado Springs can tell you that
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32. wild animals such as deer, foxes, coyotes, and even bears feet above the Arkansas River. Another wonder of Colorado,
and bobcats sometimes walk in the middle of the town and the Cave of the Winds is said to be the dwelling place of the
are an integral part of its landscape. Great Spirit of the Wind according to Native American leg-
end. Whether you believe the legend or not, the cave with
Trip to the Royal Gorge Bridge, the highest suspension its stalactites and stalagmites offers an unforgettable geologi-
bridge in the world, should be marked in the plans of any Col- cal spectacle, displaying rock formations hundreds of millions
orado visitor. This bridge looms at a height of more than 1,000 years old.
If you want to learn more about Colorado and plan
to see this marvelous sunny state, please visit the site of
Colorado Personal Tour Guide:
the
www.costourguide.com.
We know and love Colorado, and we’ll be happy to
show it to you!
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34. FAUNA GOLDEN DART FROG
GOLdEN POISON FROG
Most Poisonous Animal on Earth
The most poisonous animal is not a snake or a spider. It’s a beautiful
little frog called Phyllobates Terribilis (the terrible), the Golden Poison Frog
or the Golden Dart Frog. The golden frog is so toxic that even touching it
can be dangerous. Terribilis holds the poison Batrachotoxin. A single frog
contains enough poison to kill 20,000 mice or 10 people. It is probably the most
poisonous animal on Earth.
Phyllobates Terribilis is endemic to the Pacific coast of Colombia. The frog’s
toxic skin secretions are used by the Embera Indians of the Choco region. The
frog is the main source of the poison in the darts used by the natives to hunt
their food.
Phyllobates terribilis is harmless when raised away from its natural food
source. They need a warm, humid environment as they come from one of the
world’s most humid rainforests.
PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA
34 TOURIST | MARCH-APRIL 2011 WWW.TOURISTLIVING.COM
35.
36. BOOKS UNHOLY BUSINESS
UNHOLY BUSINESS:
A TRUE TALE OF FAITH, GREED AND FORGERY IN THE HOLY LAND
by Nina Burleigh
an award-winning author and journalist
“Skillfully constructed as a series of narrative vignettes, Unholy
Business is indeed reminiscent of a good, if rather dark film
Burleigh has a marvelous talent for thumbnail character sketches
and many of her protagonists seem to leap off the page... Burleigh...
narrates the case of the James ossuary in detail and with a zestful
sense of adventure...” – Associated Press
Excerpt: ‘Unholy Business’
Chapter One: The Billionaire’s Table Spring 2002
“That’s the stuff that dreams are made of.”Humphrey Bogart as Sam Spade in The Maltese Falcon
A
t sunset, the collector and his lucky guests
can’t help but notice the primal kaleidoscope
in the heavens above the Mediterranean Sea.
Three walls of floor-to-ceiling penthouse glass
front the westward horizon, and every afternoon, shades of
vermillion and violet, pink and indigo streak the sky and sea.
Anyone witnessing the celestial display from this vantage
point feels enriched, but the old man who owns the view, Sh-
lomo Moussaieff, is in fact one of the world’s richest men.
People tell two versions of how Moussaieff made his
billions, with a twist depending on whether the teller likes
or dislikes the old man. The nice version is that for four de-
cades, he sold pricy jewelry to oil sheiks from a tiny shop on
the first floor of London’s glittery Hilton Hotel, and then also
knew the prostitutes they employed. The sheiks paid the
girls in jewelry because they deemed it more honorable to
give their “girlfriends” presents than to pay them hard cash.
After these transactions, the unsentimental ladies rode the
mirrored and gilt elevators downstairs and sold the jewelry
back to Moussaieff, at prices far lower than what the sheiks
had paid. Then Moussaieff sold the pieces again at full value.
The nastier version of the story, told by men who think the
old man has crossed them, is that the jeweler sold the sheiks
precious jewelry and then the escorts stole the baubles and
brought them back to the shop.
Nina Burleigh At eighty-five, Moussaieff’s labyrinthine life story is
Photo Credit: Louise Hitchcock
36 TOURIST | MARCH-APRIL 2011 WWW.TOURISTLIVING.COM
37. made up of a thousand and one equally fantastic and un- pre-Canaanite pagan cult figurines, intact tile friezes taken
verifiable tales. As he tells it, an abusive rabbi father kicked from Roman baths in Israel. But these artifacts are only a
him onto the streets of 1920s Jerusalem when he was a small sampling of the six hundred thousand Bible-era relics
boy of twelve, so he slept in dank, ancient tombs on the he has collected over the years and which he stores in ware-
Old City’s edge with home- houses in Geneva and in
less Arab urchins, plucking his London townhouse. Al-
his first Roman-era coins most all of them, he read-
out of that hallowed dirt. He ily admits, were removed
passed his teenage years illegally from countries of
lice ridden and deprived, origin.
sometimes sleeping rough Moussaeiff’s collec-
in a synagogue where he tion, quirks and financial
overheard and memorized might are well understood
the Talmud, sometimes in among the antiquities
an Arabic reform school traders in Israel. On most
memorizing the Koran, nights when Moussaieff
sometimes in a Christian is in Tel Aviv, a revolving
hospital. After fighting in cast of dealers and col-
Europe in World War II, lectors drop in to sell, buy
he was briefly jailed by or simply sip Diet Coke,
the Allies for attempting to enjoy the sunset over the
smuggle valuable Judaica sea and watch the old man
from synagogues the Nazis in action. His guests may
somehow hadn’t plundered. also include socialites, pol-
In London a few years later, iticians and scholars, at-
he began amassing enor- tracted by the money, col-
mous wealth through inti- lection and mystique of one
macy with the world’s rich- of Israel’s most intriguing
est Arab potentates. A stint characters. A dyslexic who
in the Israeli secret service can barely read, he is by
fits in somewhere. What is turns profane and refined.
certain is that by the 1980s, He tells filthy jokes, veers
he had created a colossal between Hebrew and Ara-
fortune from a jewelry busi- bic as the mood suits him,
ness that landed him in the slyly calls men and women
cosmopolitan upper ech- habibi — the Arabic word
elon. One of his daughters for sweetie — and will
is married to the president recite, eyes half-closed,
of Iceland. bits of Holy Land arcana
These days, the old he has photographically
man spends less time mak- memorized from the Bible
ing money and more time and Koran. He can wax at
disbursing it to enlarge his vast collection of biblical antiq- length on the characters whose heads are commemorated
uities. He doesn’t care what people say about him, either. on tarnished bits of Roman coins or the significance of clay
His only interest in life now, besides smoking and flirting, figurines representing pre-Canaan gods and goddesses.
S
is, he says, “proving the Bible true” — an odd pursuit for an
avowedly unreligious man, but an offshoot of an early obses- hlomo Moussaieff (born 1922) is an Israeli millionaire
sion with finding God. He believes completely in the historical of Bukharian Jewish descent who has lived in London
since the early 1960s. He is the son of Rehavia Mous-
reality of biblical characters, but Yahweh remains beyond his
saieff, and grandson of Shlomo Moussaieff of Bukhara. He made
reach. The antiquities inside the Tel Aviv apartment would most of his fortune by selling precious jewelry to international royalty
keep a team of museum curators busy for decades. Among and high society, especially Saudis and Persian Gulf Arab States.
them are a pair of three-foot-high iron lions from what was He speaks Arabic fluently. The average price of a necklace in his
supposedly Queen of Sheba’s palace in Yemen, chunks of store, located in the Hilton hotel in London’s Mayfair district, is over
long-demolished Syrian Jewish temples on the walls, whole a million dollars.
slabs of Assyrian cuneiform from Iraq, vitrines packed with -From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
WWW.TOURISTLIVING.COM TOURIST | MARCH-APRIL 2011 37
38. CONTESTS AND GIVEA WAYS
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