Fabric weight calculation in GSM unit from Fabric Construction

1. Fabric Weight Calculation in
GSM (Woven Fabric)
From Fabric Construction
Taukir Kabir Tusar
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (BUTex)
Trainee – QA and Technical
Asmara International Limited

2. GSM calculation of fabric
Fabric is the basic raw material to produce any particular garments . Before going to bulk production , it
is quite essential to know and test the GSM of the supplied fabric by the supplier. This GSM can directly
be got through GSM cutter .
But the GSM can be theoretically evaluated via some calculations . We will discuss here that process.
What is GSM?
Fabric GSM means the weight of fabric in grams in per square meter area. So the higher the GSM , the
higher bulkier will be the fabric and vice versa , even they can be of same construction
Fabric Costruction
Fabric Construction is a term in which some fabric detailing are available such as EPI (Ends per inch –
warp) , PPI (Picks per inch – weft) , Warp count , Weft count and fabric width (in inches) . The formula
can be either of belows –
EPI x PPI EPI x PPI
x Fabric Width Or x Fabric Width
Warp Count X Weft Count Warp Count x Weft Count

3. Some Examples :
124x64 92x104 92x88
X48’’ = Poplin Fabric . x63 =Voile Fabric . x 54 = Cambric Fabric
40x40 80x80 60x60
All are cotton fabrics here
Calculation of GSM :
We wil calculate GSM for below one here –
Warp weight calculation :
Here , EPI = 92
So total number of ends = 92x39.37 (as we have to go to meter cause EPI is in inches
but GSM is in meter unit and 1 meter=39.37 inches )
= 3622.04
Length of each 1 meter yarn allowing the crimp % = 1m + 1m x 3% ( Let, warp crimp = 3%)
= 1m + 1m x 0.03
= 1m + 0.03 m
= 1.03 m
(this is necessary to find out 1 meter yarn length because when we take 1 meter in both warp and weft ,
it’s covered area will be 1mx1m =1m2
which is identical to GSM unit that is – Grmas per Square Meter)
So . total length of warp yarn = 3622.04x1.03 = 3730.71 m
Lx w
Now ,Warp Yarn Count , Newa
=
Wxl
( Here , L = Length found , w=1 lb = 453.6 gm , W= Weight
found/needed , l = 840x0.9144 meter)
[ As from the above formula , 453.6 gm means 1lb and 0 .9144 meter means 1 yd which came from the
definition of Ne where weight unit is fixed to 1lb and length unit to 840 yds as a constant in the formula]
# The number of hanks required of each having 840yds (1 hank) of yarn that can make 1 lb weight is
called the count (Ne) of that yarn
Lx w
Again, Warp Yarn Count , Newa
=
Wxl

4. 3730.71x453.6
=
Wx840x0.9144
1692250.06
W =
80x840x0.9144
= 27.54 gm
Weft weight calculation :
Here , PPI = 104
So total number of ends = 104x39.37 = 4094.48
Length of each 1 meter yarn allowing the crimp % = 1m + 1m x 5% ( Let, warp crimp = 5%)
= 1m + 1m x 0.05
= 1m + 0.05 m
= 1.05 m
So . total length of weft yarn = 4094.48x1.05 = 4299.21 m
Lx w
Now ,Weft Yarn Count , Newe
=
Wxl
4299.21 x453.6
=
Wx840x0.9144
1950121.66
W =
80x840x0.9144
= 31.74 gm
So the GSM of the fabric will be = 27.54 + 31.74 = 59.28
Here is a screenshot of a GSM calculator giving the same input and the result is correct !

5. Link to download the excel file :
http://www.mediafire.com/file/yaqah17i47iolhd/Fabric_Weight_Calculator_from_Construction_%28
_in_GSM_%26_oz-yd%5E2%29.xlsx