Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd

INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
1 URMI Group
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF
URMI GROUP

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CHAPTER – 1
COMPANY PROFILE
Name of Company : Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.
(Concern of Urmi Group)
Address : GhargariaMasterBari,Kewa,sreepur,Gazipur,Bangladesh
Head Office : 235/B,Tejgaon Industrial Area,Dhaka-1208,Bangladesh
Phone : +88 02 8878584
Fax Number : +88 02 8878587
Website : www.urmigroup.net
Concern of URMI Group:
 Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.
 Urmi Garments Ltd.
 Attires Manufacturing Co. Ltd.

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Inception of Urmi Group Dates back to n1984 when Urmi Garments Ltd. was set up. Today
they are one of the leading manufacturers & exporters of knit garments in Bangladesh. Over
the last Two Decades, by offering the best blend of quality, efficiency and productivity to
their valued customers, they have been able to grow up from a 50 machines stitching unit to a
composite textile having knitting, dyeing and finishing facilities of about 20 tons fabric and
70,000 pcs garments per day.

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Strength of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.:
Their Goal is to achieve zero tolerance in production by upgrading total quality
management and proper production management.
FTML srength
Proffessional
Management
Team
Latest
Machinery &
Technology
Proactive
Planning
Competetive
Pricing
Focus on
Continuous
Improvement
Dedicated &
Competent
Workforce

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FACTORY INFORMATION:
Factory Type : 100% Export Oriented Knit Composite
Industry.
Year of Establishment : 2004
Investor : Asif Ashraf
Cell No. :0171-521090
Location : Gargaria Master Bari, Kewa, Sreepur, Gazipur
Telephone : 9289539, 0171684935
E-mail:ftml@urmigroup.net,
Annual Turnover : About Tk. 50, 00, 00,000 to 55, 00, 00,000
Certification & Awards : ISO 9001: 2000, WRAP,OekoTex&
GOTS(Global Organic Textile Standard)
Bank Name & Address:
Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd.
75, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh.
Telex:642525 IBANK BJ
S.W.I.F.T. –IBBLBDDH102
Contact Person:
Mr. Hafizur Rahman –Sr. General Manager, Cell no. - 01711-560980
Mr. RuhulKuddus –Deputy General Manager, Dyeing, Cell no.- 01713-013028
Mr. Moniruzzaman –Asst. General Manager, Knitting, Cell no. - 01712-106405

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Capacity & Machineries
Floor space: 320,000 Square Feet
Knitting machine : 82 nos
Knitting per day : 15,000 Kgs
Dyeing machine : 27 nos
Dyeing per day : 20,000 Kgs
Finishing Per Day : 20,000 Kgs
Stenter machine : 02 nos
Open width compactor : 02 nos
Tension free dryer : 01 nos
Tubular compactor : 01 nos
Slitting & squeezing machine: 03 nos
Brushing machine : 02 nos
Tumble dryer : 02 nos
Fabric inspection machine : 06 nos
Printing Unit
Floor space : 26,000 square feet
Carosol print machine : 04 nos
Glass table : 16 nos with 400 feet
Capacity : 25,000 pcs per day with multi color average size printing

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Embroidery Unit
Machines : 20 Head 04 nos,06 Head 01 nos
Capacity : 3000 million stitches per day
Main Production : Men’s, Ladies, Boy’s, Girls & Infant -Polo Shirt,
T-Shirt, Tank Tops, Shorts, Trouser, Fleece Jacket, Vest etc
Compliance & Certificates:
Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. is extremely particular to meet all levels of compliances at
national and international levels
Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. use AZO free dyes and chemicals and are certified by
OekoTex, WRAP GOLD Certificate, GOTS(Global Organic Textile Standard.
In Fakhruddin Textile MillsLtd..all personnel are equipped with the necessary safety gear and
trained to combat any accidents that may take place.
As they are ISO 9001:2000 for its QMS certificate for manufacturing responsible textile
manufacturing process.

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Their Sporting skill in Textile production includes:
All Kinds of S/J, Rib, Interlock, Pique, French Terry,
Brushed Fleece, Drop Needle,different type of design etc. on :
100% Polyester,100% Cotton & Different blend of Cotton and Polyester.
Cotton –Elastane.
100% Organic Cotton.
Blend of Organic and normal Cotton.
100% Modal.
100% Viscos
Viscos- Elastane
Cotton-Modal
Polyamide- Elastane
T/C & CVC
We are Impregnable in producing Special Fabrics like :
Coolmax .
Soil / Stain Release.
Water Repellent
Silpur Finish ( Anti Bacterial)
UV Finish.
3X dry finish
Polyjen

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Process Flowchart:
Stentering/Drying
Yarn
Special finish/
Brushing/Sueding
/ Print
Slitting/Dewateri
ng
Dyeing
Knitting
Greige
Batch preparation
Turning/reversing
Quality Check
As per confirmation of lab dip
Heat Setting
Quality Check
Physical Inspection Lab QC
Finished Goods
In line QC
Compacting
In line inspection
Check point: Yarn count Slub / Strength /
evenness
4-Point System
Quality Check
Shrinkage,
Rubbing, Bursting,
spirality, Fastness
to wash,
perspiration, pilling
etc.
Stentering/Drying

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CHAPTER-2
MAN-POWER
MANAGEMENT
Manpower of Fakhruddin Textile Mills ltd.:

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Unit Officer & Staff worker Total
FTML Textile 260 940 1200
FTML Garments 575 3248 3823
Total 835 4188 5023
Professionals Working For:
SL.no. Name of Education Persons
01 Masters 106
02 BBA/MBA 29
03 Industrial Engineering 06
04 B.Sc. In Textile Engineering 42
05 B.Sc. In Mechanical Engineering 02
06 B.Sc. In Electrical Engineering 03
07 B.Sc. In Computer Science and Engineering 03
08 CA (CC) 03
09 MBBS 02
10 PGDHRM 02
11 L.L.B 02
12 Diploma In Engineering 60
Total 260
ORGANOGRAM:

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MD/Director
AGM
Work
Study
AGM
Commercial
Chief Operating Officer
AGM
Accounts &
Finance
AGM
Admin.HR &
Comp.
DGM
Commercial
DGM
Dyeing
DGM Project
Implementation
AGM
Cutting
AGM
Knitting
Sr. AGM
Accounts
& Finance
AGM
Production
AGM
Merchandising
AGM
Quality
DGM
Merchandising
DGM Production
[Factory Manager]
Textile
Garments
HR, Admin &
Compliance
Planning &
Work study
Store
Merchandising Project Commercial Accounts
& Finance
Sr. GM
Store Company
Secretary
Sr. GM

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CHAPTER-3
RAW MATERIALS
Raw Material
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital
role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
Types of Raw Materials:

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1. Yarn
2. Grey Fabric
3. Dyes
4. Chemical
Raw Materials Sources:
Yarn:
Some Factory Name of Yarn Suppliers,
 Square Textile Mills
 Padma Textile Mills
 Mosharaf Textile Mills ltd.
 Prime Composite Mills
 Israq Textile Mills ltd.
 Badsha Textile Mills ltd.
 Shamsuddin Spinning
 Tara Textile Mills ltd.
 PHP Textile Mills ltd.
 Numan Spinning Mills ltd.
Different Yarn And Count for Knitting:
SL/No
Yarn Type
Composition
Yarn Count
01 Carded Yarn 100% Cotton 10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30,
32s, 34s,
02 Combed Yarn 100% Cotton 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s,
50s, 60s.

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03 G/M (Viscose %) 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40%
04 Spun Yarn 100% Polyester 36D, 70D, 72D, 75D,
05 PC Polyester + Cotton 24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s,
06 CVC Cotton + Polyester 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s
07 C/M Cotton 50% + Polyester
50%
26s, 28s, 30s,
08 Lycra Synthetic 20D, 40D, 70D,
Grey Fabrics:
Following types of grey fabrics are dyed-
 Single jersey
 Double jersey
 Single jersey with lycra
 Interlock
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Rib
 Lycra rib
 1 x 1 rib & others
 Collar & cuff
 Polyester fabrics
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 Terry Fleece
 Fleece
Sources:
The required grey fabric is produce in the industry.
Chemicals:
01. Soda ash light 24. Mcropan DPE
02. Caustic Soda 25. Cibapon R
03. Common salt 26. Ctobalance NSR
04. Glauber Salt 27. Rucozen RES

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05. H2O2 28. TinofixFRd
06. Acetic Acid 29. Lily XXL powder
07. Oxalic Acid 30. RewanAcp
08. Bleaching Powder 31. Cibatex ECO
09. Hydrose 32. Invatex CRA
10. Leuphore BMB 33. Heptole EMG
11. Uvtex BHT 34. Cibafluide C
12. Uvtex BHV 35. Biovin 109
13. Uvtex BAM 36. Tinozym 44L
14. Syno White 4BK 37. Beizym ULBD
15. Uvtex BFE 38. Invatex PC
16. Albatex FFC 39. Invatex AC
17. CHTE nt. K50 40. Catalar BF
18. InvadineLun
19. Feloson NOF
20. Invadine DA
Dyes:
01. Solazol Black sp GRI 21. Cibacron Blue FNR
02. Reactofix Red ME4BL 22. Cibacron Blue FGFN
03. Cottofix Red ME4BL 23. Cibacron Navy WB
04. Reactofix Orange ME2RL 24. Drimarin Yellow CL2RL
05. Reactofix N.ME2GL 25. Drimarin Red CL5B
06. Reactive Yellow H4GL 26. Drimarin Violet K2RL

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07. Reactive Deep Black N 27. Drimarin Navy CLB
08. Cottofix Black B 28. Drimarin Blue CT2R
09. Reactive Blue R(SP) 29. Bezaktrive Yellow S3R
10. Remazol Red RR 30. Bezaktrive Yellow SLF
11. Remazol Yellow RR 31. Bezaktrive Yellow V GL
12. Remazol Blue RR 32. Diss Yellow F5GL
13. Remazol Blue BB NEW 33. Diss Red BF
14. Remazol T. Blue G 34. Diss Blue FRL
15. Remazol B Yellow 3GL 35. Diss Navy 2GL
16. Remazol Red RGD 36. Diss Black EXNSF
17. Cibacron Red FN2BL 37. Terasil Black WNS
18. Cibacron Red FB 38. Terasil Red FB
19. Cibacron Red FN3G 39. Terasil Red WFS
20. Cibacron Red WB 40. Terasil Red W4BS
Remarks:
Fakhruddin Textile Mills Limited. uses best quality raw materials. It produces fabrics from
best quality yarn. They uses the best quality dyes like REMAZOL, REACTRON,
REACTIVE,TERACIL etc. During the time of using dyestuff they give importance upon the
quality of dyes than the price of the dyes and chemicals.

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CHAPTER-04
INVENTORY CONTROL
AND UTILITY
Store & inventory control:
Frequency of Inventory Control:
 Monthly inventory control
 Annual inventory control
Scope of Inventory Control:
 Raw materials
 Dyes store
 Others chemicals store

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 Grey fabrics
 Finishing fabric
 spare parts
 General store
 Capital equipment
 Accessories
 Stationary
 Maintenance parts.
Inventory system for raw materials:
 Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head
office.
 Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received quantity is
mentioned & noted down.
 Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected.
 Entry of data of goods in DATATEX.
 Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group.
 Department gives store requisition to warehouse.
 As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down.
Stages of grey fabric inventory control:
 After knitting production
 Grey inspection
 Warehouse
 Batch preparation
 Dye house.
Stages of finished fabric inventory control:
 Finishing section
 After final inspection
 Warehouse.

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Utility:
SL MACHINE
NAME
BRAND ORIGIN QUANTITY
(Nos)
CAPACITY
01 GAS
GENERATOR
WAUKESHA U.S.A 02 750 KW
02 BOILER COCKRAN U.K 03 4500 KG
03 DIESEL
GENERATOR
DAIHATSU JAPAN 01 550 KW
04 COMPRESSOR COMP AIR GERMANY 01 5.5 m3/MIN
05 PUMP KSB INDIA 01 80-120 m3/Hr
06 BOOSTING
PUMP
KSB DPVF-65-
30
INDIA 06 65 m3/Hr
Moreover Urmi Group have the following facilities for smooth operation:
• Stand by Generator to run the full factory
• Fire protection system
• Sufficient volume of water reservoir at underground & overhead.
• Quality electrical cable with circuit breakers
• Separate toilets for male & female workers
• Sufficient ventilation is provided by installing ceiling fans, exhaust fans, large
windows
• Factory premises is always kept neat & clean
• We do not have any child labor
• Doctor & Nurse are provided to take care of workers health
• Canteen for workers
• Day care center
• Work study center

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CHAPTER-05

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MARKETING STRATEGY
Marketing Strategy:
Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer . If
the marketing strategy is not so developed , it will be very hard to reach the goal .
In case of garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor.
In Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers , merchandiser &
higher officials deal with the buyer . There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The
buyers give their orders continuously all over the year . The marketing officers & the
merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to collect the orders .
Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produce in
this industry are exported to various country .
Clients of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.:
Buyer Country
Lidl Germany
S.Oliver Germany

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Tchibo Germany
Puma Germany
Marks & Spencer UK
H&M Sweden
Ellos Sweden
LaRedoute France
Litex UK
Vertbaudet France
Auchen France
Decathlon France
Brylane USA
Toray Japan
Meters Bonwe China
Ernesting’s Family Germany

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Main Products:
Polo Shirt, Sweat Shirt, Ladies rib tops, basic and fancy polo, T-Shirt,Tank-Tops, Sweat
Tops and bottoms for all age range of male and female.
CHAPTER-06
KNITTING SECTION

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Knitting:
Knitting is a process of manufacturing a fabric by inters looping of
yarns. Knitting is the second most important method of fabric formation. It can be defined as
a needle technique of fabric formation, in which, with the help of knitting needles, loops are
formed to make a fabric or garment. Fabric can be formed by hand or machine knitting, but
the basic principle remains exactly the same i.e. pulling a new loop through the old loop.
In other words, Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into
cloth or other fine crafts. It is a fabrication process i.e. intermeshing series of loops of one or
more yarns or from a set of yarns. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops, called
stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active
stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process
eventually results in a final product, a garment. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine
.Different yarns and knitting needles may be used to achieve different end products by giving
the final piece a different color, texture, weight, and/or integrity. Using needles of varying
sharpness and thickness as well as different varieties of yarn can also change the effect. A

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knitted fabric is the third major class of fabric, after woven and nonwoven fabrics.
In knitting, the inter-lopping is carried out by needles (may be Latch or beard or
compound needle etc), the needles are equipped on a cylinder and Needle butt moves
between the grooves of cams to accomplish knitting cycle and producing the fabric. The
shape of the needle cam grooves depends on the required knitting pattern.
All over the world, the majority of knit fabrics are manufactured on circular knitting
machines. The high performance level of these machines, the different materials and the
range of yarn counts that they are able to process, the wide variety of designs and stitches are
some of the reasons which have granted circular machines the market leadership in the
knitting sector.
Layout Of Knitting Section:

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Knitting Machine Specification:
M/C M/C Name or Country Year M/C Type Dia& No. of No. of

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No. Brand Name of Origin of
Manu.
Gauge Feeder Needle
01 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464
02 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
03 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
04 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
05 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
06 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
07 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
08 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
09 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
10 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
11 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
12 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
13 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
14 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 36*24 72 2715
15 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
16 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
17 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
18 KEUMYONG M/C
CO. LTD.
KOREA 2007 Double Jersey 38*18 90 2149
19 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
20 PAOLO ORIZIO ITALIA 2002 Double Jersey 30*18 60 1697
21 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
22 KEUMYONG M/C
CO. LTD.
KOREA 2007 Double Jersey 42*18 84 2376
23 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
TAIWAN 2009 Single Jersey 24*24 72 1810
24 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
25 PAI LUNG M/C TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 26*24 78 1961

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CO. LTD.
26 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
27 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
28 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
29 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
30 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
31 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
32 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
33 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
34 KEUMYONG M/C
CO. LTD.
KOREA 2007 Single Jersey 40*24 120 3016
35 KEUMYONG M/C
CO. LTD.
36 KEUMYONG M/C
CO. LTD.
37 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
38 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
39 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
40 PAOLO ORIZIO ITALIA 2002 Single Jersey 30*24 90 2262
41 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
42 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
43 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
44 PAI LUNG M/C
CO. LTD.
45 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
46 PAI LUNG M/C
CO.LTD.
47 PAI LUNG M/C
CO.LTD.
48 KEUMYONG M/C
CO. LTD.
49 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
51 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.

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52 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
53 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
54 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
55 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
56 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
57 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
58 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
59 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
60 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
61 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
62 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
63 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
64 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
65 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
66 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
67 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
68 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
69 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
70 JIUNN LONG M/C
CO.LTD.
71 FUKAHARA CHINA Auto Stripe
(Double Jersey)
72 FUKAHARA CHINA Auto Stripe (D/J)
Process flow chart of knitting:
Cone from spinning
Creeling the cone

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Yarn feed by different tensioner
Adjust S/L, GSM, etc. by V.D.Q pulley
Produce 0.5 m fabric, if fault found, it adjust
After bulk production, cut the role
Marking the role such as S/L, Diameter, GSM etc.
Role inspection
Gray Store
Finishing/Dyeing
Sequence of Yarn Feeding:

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Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:
1. Creel:Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Here yarn package are store and ready to feed
in the machine.
Creel
Yarn Tube/Pipe
Wheel
Yarn Sensor
Knot Catcher
Positive Feeder
Feeder
Final Yarn Guide
Needle

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2. Positive Feeders:Here number of yarn wounded on two positive feeder for smooth
feeding of two yarn in the machine.
3. Feed Sensor:It is used in positive feeder to help the little display at the time of yarn
breakage. At that time machine is stopped.
4. Final Yarn Guide:It controls the path of the yarn.

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5. Needle:Hooked metal part which is used to formation of loops.
6. Indicators:In any yarn breakage or any fault in the machine. Indicators are used to
identify them.
7. Lubricants:The lubricator provides lubrication to needle, cam tracks, lifters and other
knitting machine components.

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8. Fluff Blower:It removes the fiber, dust particle on the machine.
9. VDQ Pulley:It controls the stitch length as well as GSM of knit fabric.
10. Cam: Cams are knitting elements which cover rotary machine drive into a suitable
reciprocating action for the needles and other elements.
11. Cam Box:Where the cams are set horizontally.

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12. Cylinder:Needles are situated here.
13. Dial:Needles are situated here. It is used in double jersey knitting machine.
16. Needle Detector:This part detects the any type of faults of needles.

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17. Spreader:To control the width of the knitted fabric.
18. Taker-in:It is takedown the fabric in suitable tension.
19. Cloth Roller:Numbers of fabric layers are wound evenly.
Other parts,

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 Positive Feeder Belt
 Knot Catcher
 Top Gear Oil D/J
 Yarn Tube/Pipe
 Rotating Fan
 Yarn Feeder Ring Ceramic
 Yarn Feeder Ceramic
 Lycra Guide/Wheel
 Fabric Detector
 Needle detector
 Machine Gate
 Take Down Side Gears
 Fabric Roller Lock
 Rubber Belt (Curling)
 All Gear Greasing
 All Type of Nut & Bolt
Terms of Knitting:
Course:
Horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles in knitting cycle is called the course of
the fabric. A course is a predominantly horizontal raw of needle loops produced by adjacent
needles during the same knitting cycle called course. (Loop length * No of loop).
Wales:
Vertical column of loops produced by same needle in knitting cycle is called the Wales of the
fabric.

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A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced
by the same needle knitting cycles. i.e. The number of vertical columns of loop of knitted
fabrics is called wale.
Face loop:
If the legs of new loop is passes over the old loop is called face loop.
Back loop:
If the legs of new loop is passes under the old loop is called face loop.
Stitch density:
The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a linear measurement of
courses or Wales; it is the total number of needles loops in a square area measurement such
as a square inch or three square centimeters.
It is expressed as,
Course per inch × Wales per inch.
Stitch length:
Length of one loop in the course direction express in mm.
Number of needle:
Machine diameter × Machine gauge × 3.1416.
GSM:
The weight of one square meter of fabric express in gram is known as GSM.
Needle gauge:
The needle gauge of a knitting machine is a measure expressed the no. of needle per unit of
the needle bed or needle bar. As for example:
1. In case of circular weft knitting machine & Tricot warp knitting machine. [Gauge,
N= Number of needle per inch.]
2. In case of Raschel warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per two
inch.]

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Needle:
There are three types of needle-
1. Bearded needle
2. Compound needle
3. Latch needle-
 One butt needle.
 Two butt needle.
 Three butt needle.
 Four butt needle.
The most widely used needle is latch needle.
Fig: Main parts of latch needle.
Cam:
Cam is called the specific path of the needles to produce a specific type of fabric.

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There are three types of cam used in circular knitting machine:
1. Knit Cam.
2. Tuck Cam.
3. Miss Cam.
Knit Cam:
It moves the needle upward enough to clear the old loop and receive the new yarn.
Tuck Cam:
It moves the needle upward not enough to clear. The old loop but receive the new yarn.
Miss cam:
It does not move the needle upward. The needles neither clear the old loop nor receive the
new yarn.
Sinker:
It is a thin metal plate with an individual or collective operation approximately at right angles
at the hook side between adjacent needles.

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Function of sinker:
In circular knitting m/c sinker helps to form the loop by holding down the yarn
Loop forming sequence of latch needle:
Latch Opening:
The needle goes upward and the sinker comes in action to hold down the loop. Then the old
loop press down the latch and it gets open.
Yarn Receiving:

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The needle iscontinuous moving upward enough to receive the new yarn. The old loop
remains on the open latch that is called tucking on the latch position.
Clearing:
The needle goes to its ultimate height to clear the old loop and the new yarn still within the
reach of the needle.
Landing:
According to the path of cam, the needle starts moving downward. Being pushed by the old
loop the latch gets closed and the new yarn is entrapped within the closed hook.
Knock off:
The needle continues moving downward. When it reaches at the down position, the old loop
slides off from the back of the latch over the tip of the needle.This old loop then taken by the
take up roller hangs from the new loop.
Fabric Types:
Single Jersey
Rib
Interlock

44 URMI Group
 Normal S/J
 Fancy
 Diagonal Fleece
 Polar Fleece
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 High S/J
 French Terry
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 (1*1) Rib
 (1*2) Rib
 Needle Drop Rib
 Milano Rib
 Flat back Rib
 B-Waffle
 FFL-Rib
 Plain Interlock
 Mesh
 Net Mesh
Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as
follows-
 Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
 Finished G.S.M.
 Yarn count
 Types of yarn (combed or carded)
 Diameter of the fabric.
 Stitch length
 Color depth
Relationship between knitting parameter:
1. Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM
Production Parameter:
 Machine Diameter;
 Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
 No. of feeds or feeders in use;

45 URMI Group
 Machine Gauge;
 Count of yarn.
Responsibilities of a Production Officer :
 Monitor and control shift wise production, plant utilization, waste generation etc.
implement correct work methods and maintain all records related to production.
 Responsible for systematic planning and execution of production programs.
 Adequate control over process in order to achieve quality of product & better waste
management.
 Monitor shift wise production, utilization etc. and take corrective action for any
shortfall.
 Maintain all the procedure of his department and shall incorporate amendments as and
when required in procedure.
 Responsibilities for monitoring the performance of manpower under him and
identification of training needs.
Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production
will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on
yarn because of this high speed.
By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the
number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
By using machine of higher gauge:

46 URMI Group
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine
of higher gauge production can be increased.
By imposing other developments:
 Using creel-feeding system
 Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities
of yarn damage
 Using yarn feed control device
 Using auto lint removal.
Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape
 If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per
inch increase.
 For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
Effect of stitch length on color depth:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of
fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is
adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller
Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:

47 URMI Group
 Brought good quality yarn
 Machines are oiled and greased accordingly
 G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately
 Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month
 Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system
Changing of GSM:
 Major control by VDQ pulley
 Minor control by stitch length adjustment
 Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of
the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the
G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will
increase
Tension:
Tension should be control for different yarns, because for tension variation yarns may be
broke. Tension measured by Tension Meter.
Yarn Tension (CN)
Cotton (S/J) 4-5
Polyester (Single Jersey) 3.5-4
Double Jersey 2-2.5
CVC/Viscose 6-7
For Fleece Yarn:
Yarn Tension (CN)
Binding Cotton 3-4
Polyester 1
Knit 4-5
Tuck 8-10

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Production Calculation:
We took all the necessary data which is related to calculating production (kg/hr) while
machine running. And here we show how to calculate different types of fabric production.
Machine No-46:
Single jersey (Plain):
= 16.34 kg/hr
= 130.73 kg/hr
= 392.2 kg/day
= 11765 kg/month or, 11.765 ton/month
= 141.18 ton/year
Machine No-20:
(Double Jersey Rib)

49 URMI Group
= 7.12 kg/hr
= 56.96 kg/shift
= 5126.4 kg/month or, 5.13 ton/month
= 61.52 ton/year
Machine No-14:
(Double Jersey Interlock)
= 9.14 kg/hr
= 73.13 kg/shift
= 219.38 kg/day
= 6.58 ton/month
Relationship Between G.S.M, S/L & Count for different fabric:
Single Jersey (Plain):
G.S.M Count S/L (mm)
120 36/1 2.80
130 32/1 2.80
140 30/1 2.85
150 28/1 2.85
160 26/1 2.85/2.90
170 24/1 2.95

50 URMI Group
175 24/1 2.90
180 24/1 2.85
200 20/1 3.10
210 20/1 3.05
220 20/1 3.00
Rib:
200 34/1, 20D 2.90/1.30
210 30/1 2.76
200 28/1 2.80
200 34/1, 75D 2.85/2.30
200/210 26/1 2.90
280 27/1 (CB) 2.90/1.18
Interlock:
190 36/1, 70D 1.65/1.15
Analysis of the Fabric:
Design analysis:

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52 URMI Group
Fabric Consumption:
Fabric Type = D-Fleece
Fabric GSM = 340
S/L of 30 Ne Dyed cotton yarn = 4.70

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S/L of 30 Ne Grey cotton yarn = 3.40
S/L of 10 Ne Dyed cotton yarn = 1.65
We know,
Composition = S/L ÷ Ne
Now, 4.7 ÷ 30 =0.15667
And, 3.4 ÷ 30 = 0.1133
And, 1.65 ÷ 10 = 0.165
Total = 0.434
Composition of 30 Ne Dyed yarn = (0.15667×100)÷0.434
= 36
Composition of 30 Ne Grey yarn = (0.1133×100)÷0.434
= 26
Composition of 10 Ne Dyed yarn =(0.165×100)÷0.434
= 38
So the composition are,
30 Ne Dyed cotton yarn : 30 Ne Grey cotton yarn : 10 Ne Dyed cotton yarn = 36:26:38
Sample analysis:
Normal S/J:

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Face Side Back Side
Diagonal Fleece:
Face Side Back Side
Polar Fleece:
Single Lacoste:
Face Side Back Side

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Face Side Back Side
Double Lacoste:
Face Side Back Side
Single Pique:
Face Side Back Side
Double Pique:

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Face Side Back Side
Rib (1*1):
Face Side Back Side
B-Waffle:
Face Side Back Side
Full Feeder Lycra-Rib:

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Face Side Back Side
Flat back Rib:
Face Side Back Side
Milano Rib:
Face Side Back Side
Plain Interlock:

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Face Side Back Side
Mesh:
Face Side Back Side
Net Mesh:
Face Side Back Side
Quality Assurance System:
4 Point System:

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Fault Points
0-3” 1
3”-6” 2
6”-9” 3
>9” 4
HOLE<1” 4
HOLE>1” 4
< 20 Point-A
20-30 Point-B
Above- Rejected
Knitted Fabric Faults:
 Conta
 Hole/Hole mark
 Loop
 Slub
 Patta
 Drop Stitch
 Cloth Fall Out
 Cotton Knit (Dust)
 Soil Mark/ Oil Mark
 Needle Mark
 Barrieness
 Neps
 Miss Yarn
 Lycra Missing
 Black Spot
 Rust stain
 Pin hole
 Grease stain
 Fly Dust
 Cloth fall- out
 Other fault
Calculation Related To Quality:
Formula:

60 URMI Group
Example 01:
Weight = 20 kg Points = 10
GSM = 180 Fabric Dia = 68
Now,
= 70 yds
= 7
Points = 7
So this is A Grade fabric.
Example 02:
Weight = 13.4 kg Points = 12
GSM = 160 Fabric Dia = 64
= 56 yds
= 12
Points = 12
So this is A Grade fabric
Quality Control M/C in Knitting Section:
 Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : Uzu fabric inspection machine
 Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
 Electric Balance for GSM check.
 Compressor 2 pieces.

61 URMI Group
Faults & Remedies of knitting fabric:
Hole Mark:
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and
density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
1.Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
2.Use proper count of yarn.
3.Correctly set of yarn feeder.
4.Knot should be given properly.
Needle Mark:
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.

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 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the
fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
Sinker Mark:
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop
as a result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
Star Mark:
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
Drop Stitches:
Causes:
 Defective needle.

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 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the
needle hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.
Oil Stain:
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a
line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Rust stain:
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Pin hole:
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.

64 URMI Group
Grease stain:
Causes:
 Improper greasing
 Excess greasing
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
Cloth fall- out:
Causes:
Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the
hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a
drop stitch.
Barrieness:
 A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width
wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different luster, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in
carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.

65 URMI Group
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Fly Dust:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from
yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or
attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
Yarn contamination:
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after
finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
Yarn Faults:
 Naps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness.

66 URMI Group
Wastage:
Held up for further inspection by quality manager and Assistant General Manager. If quality
manager does not give any comment then he look up for AGM. And if AGM also does not
give any comment then it send to dyeing section. Dyeing section can ok this problem then
reject sample are considered as wastage or vice versa.

67 URMI Group
CHAPTER-07
DYEING AND
FINISHING SECTION
Layout Of Dyeing Section:

68 URMI Group
Machine’s Description:

69 URMI Group
Symbol Description
01 ICI Pilling and Snagging tester
02 Pilling Assessment Viewer
03 Crockmeter
04 Perspiration Tester
05 pH Meter
06 Count Testing Machine
07 Digital Reeling Twist Tester
08 Tumble Dryer (Accudry2)
09 Tumble Dryer(Electrolux)
10-11 Washing Machine
12 Rota Wash
13-15 Lab Dyeing Machine
16 Lab Dryer
17 Automatic Pipette Machine
18 Light Box
Working Principle of Lab:
Central Laboratory divided into two sections.

70 URMI Group
 Lab dip Development
 Test
 Fastness Test of fabric.
 Water hardness measurement test.
Steps of Lab Operation:
Collect standard swatch / Panton from buyer
Calculate recipe by CCM (Computer Colour Matching) system.
No
Calculate difference I,e ensure that produced recipe is close enough to target sample
theoretically .
Yes
Produced sample.
Yes
Flow Chart of LAB DIP preparation:
Yes
Compare the target with produced sample.
Yes
Submit the sample for buyer approval.
Yes
Go to bulk production with correct recipe.
Laboratory Equipment’s:
SL/No Name of
Equipment’s
Model no./ Type Origin Unit
Correction

71 URMI Group
1 Spectrophotometer DATACOLOR / 650 USA 01
2 SDL “ECO” Infra-Red
Lab Dyeing System
d400IR/2 UK 03
3 Knit Shrinkage Tester Wascator from 71CLS
LABWASHER- Extractor
UK 01
4 Quick wash Plus Fabric
system
SDL-ATLAS UK 01
5 Rota Wash M 228 A UK 01
6 Standard Tumble Dryer 417 UK 02
7 Crock meter M238AA UK 01
8 Color Matching Cabinet G210A05 UK 01
9 Color Matching Cabinet Light Spectra LUX II DTM INDIA 01
10 Perspirometer M231 UK 01
11 Single End Yarn Strength
Tester
Y263 UK 01
12 Twist Tester Electronic Y220B UK 01
13 Yarn Examining machine 221 UK 01
14 ICI Pilling tester M227A UK 01
15 Digital PH /temp Meter G202 UK 01
16 Adventurer Electronic
Balance
G204/1A UK 01
17 Navigator Portable
Electronic Balance
G204VI UK 01
18 Fabric Yield Package
System
236/1 UK 02
19 Wrap Reel Electronic Y219BM UK 01
20 Electrolux washing m/c
Kit
FOM -71 UK 02

72 URMI Group
21 Electronic Sensor Dryer 471 UK 01
Laboratory dyeing procedure:
There are four dyeing process are followed in FTML.They are given below-
 Cotton Dyeing
 Polyester Dyeing.
 White Color Dyeing.
 Turquoise color dyeing
Preparation of Sample and Chemicals:
 Liquor ratio 1:8
 Making stock solution of dyestuff (0.25%,0.5%, 1%, 2%)
 Making stock solution of chemicals. Soda ash = 20g/L, Glauber‟s salt = 20 g/L,
Leveling agent = 1cc.
Cotton Dyeing Procedure:
 Add dyestuff, salt, leveling agent and alkali along with 5 gm sample fabric in a
beaker.
 Then raise the temperature to 600C.
 After that run the machine for 60 min by grading 3/ min.
 At last drop the temperature to 50.
Wash Off:
 Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out.
 Soaping with detergent at 70ºC for 05 min.
 Rinse with cold water and squeezing is done
 Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade.
Polyester Dyeing Procedure:
 Add water, dyestuff, and salt, leveling and dispersing agent along with 5 gm sample
fabric in a beaker at pH 4.5 in 400 C.
 After that raise the temperature to 130. Then run the machine for 45 min.
Wash Off:
 Rinse the sample with cold water until clear water come out.
 Reduction clearing is done with 2 g/l caustic soda &hydrosol at 60-70 ºC
for 10 min.

73 URMI Group
White Color Dyeing Procedure:
 Add Water,OBA (4BK),leveling agent along with 5 gm sample fabric in a beaker.
 After that raise the temperature to 90. Then run the machine for 45 min by grading 2/
min.
Wash Off:
 Rinse the sample in running cold water.
Cotton Dyeing with turquoise color Procedure:
 Add dyestuff, salt, leveling agent along with 5 gm sample fabric in a beaker at 600C.
 Then raise the temperature to 800C by grading 30C/min and keep the temperature for
15 minutes.
 Next cooling the temperature to 600C by 20C/min.
 After that add alkali (soda ash+ Caustic Soda) by dosing and raise the temperature for
80 by grading 3/ min.
Wash Off:
 Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out.
 Rinse with cold water and squeezing is done
 Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade
Description of Lab test Method:
Color Fastness to crocking (AATCC 8):
Standard Operating Procedure:
Objective:
To determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to
other surface by rubbing.
Apparatus & Materials:
 Crockmeter
 Crockmeter test cloth
 White AATCC testile blotting paper
 AATCC chromatic transference scale
 Grey Scale for staining

74 URMI Group
Specimen Size : 50 cm x 130 cm
Crock square Size: 5 cm x 5 cm
Conditioning:
Condition the specimen & crock square in conditioning atmosphere for 4 hrs.
Procedure:
For Dry Crocking:
Place a test specimen on the base of the crock meter resting flat on the abrasive cloth with its
long dimension in the direction of rubbing. Place specimen holder over specimen. Mount a
white test cloth square on the finger. Use the special spiral wire clip to hold the test square in
the place. Position the clip with loops upward. Lower the covered finger onto the test
specimen. Beginning with the finger positioned at the front end, crank the meter handle 10
complete turns at the rate of one turn per seconds to slide the covered finger back and forth
20 times. Set and run the motorized tester for 10 complete turns. Remove the white test cloth
square,
For Wet Crocking:
Wet out a crock square in the distilled water (Wet pick up s/b 65% ± 5%). Then continue the
test as dry crocking.
Air dry the specimen.
Evaluation:
Condition & evaluate the specimen using AATCC ref grey scale for color staining.
Mass per Unit Area (Fabric Weight) (ASTM D3776):
Objectives: To measure weight per unit area of textile
Specimen: 100cm2
Apparatus:
 GSM cutter
 Electronic Balance with an accuracy of 0.001
Condition:4hrs condition before test at 20±2 65±5 RH
Procedure:
 Randomly cut five specimen by GSM cutter
 Take weight individually
 Let the weight in M
Calculation:
GSM = M x 100 ( g/m2)
= GSM x 0.029 (oz / yd2)

75 URMI Group
Take average of the five.
Color Fastness to Laundering (AATCC 61,2A):
Objective:
To evaluate the color fastness to laundering of textiles, which are expected to withstand
frequent laundering.
Apparatus & materials:
 Launder meter sets
 Canister (1200±50) ml
 Stainless steel balls
 Multifibre test fabric
 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent WOB.
 Distilled water.
Preparation:
 Specimen Size : 2” x 6”
 Multifibre Size: 2” x 4”
Attach Multifibre (fused) & fabric face in shorter edge
Solution: 1.5 g AATCC WOB detergent per 1 liter distilled water
Procedure:
 150 ml solution with 50 steel balls in a 1200 ml canister 45 minutes at 49
 Adjust the laundering machine to temp. 49.
 Preheat the solution in a 1200 ml canister with 50 steel balls for 2 minutes.
 Then put the specimen onto the canister & run the machine for 45 minutes.
 Empty the contents into beakers.
 Rinse test specimen three times, in 3 separate beakers with distilled water at (40±3 for
1 min.
 Dry the specimen in an air circulating oven in which the temperature dose not exceed
71
Evaluation:
After 1 hour condition, assess the specimen for color change & staining using AATCC Ref
Grey Scales.
pH of Water Extract of Textiles (AATCC 81):
Objectives: To determine the pH of an aqueous extract of a textile material.

76 URMI Group
Apparatus:
 Glass Beaker
 pH meter
 Electronic Balance
 Buffer Solution (pH 4.0 - 7.0 & 10.0)
Specimen:10 ± 0.1 gm specimen cut into small pieces
Solution: 250 ml distilled water in 400 ml beaker.
Procedure:
 Boil 250 ml of distilled water at a moderate rate for 10 min.
 Put the specimen; cover the beaker with a watch glass.
 And boil for an additional 10 min.
 Allow the covered beaker to cool to room temperature.
 Remove the specimen with tweezers.
Evaluation:Measure the pH of the extract using a calibrated pH meter
Dimensional Stability to Washing (AATCC 135)
Objective:
To determine the shrinkage & Elongation of a textile component, after a defined number of
washing & drying cycles.
Apparatus:
 Template
 Indelible Ink
 Metal rule graduated in mm
Condition:
Prior to making condition specimen for 4 hours at conditioning atmosphere.
Sample Preparation:
 Place the template with one of its side parallel to the selvage & at least (150 ± 10) mm
from selvage.
 Trace a square of 10” x 10” with the four corner hole using their exterior sides.
 Cut out all around the template so that you have a sample of 15” x 15”
Procedure:
 Measure with marking three length (L1, L2, L3) & width (W1, W2, W3) of the square
securing each bench mark 5 inch apart from another.
 Perform the number of washing & drying required by the applicant.
 Condition for 4 hrs, flat without fold.
 Measure after wash length (L‟1, L‟2, L‟3) & width (W‟1, W‟2, W‟3)
Calculation:

77 URMI Group
Calculate shrinkage according to the formula:
Shrinkage % = (After wash – Before wash) / before wash x 100
Color Fastness to water (AATCC 107):
Objective:
To measure the resistance of water of dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile yarns or
fabrics
Specimen Size:
 Specimen: 6 cm x 6 cm
 Multifibre: 5 cm x 5 cm
Attach multifibre and fabric face side in shorter edge.
Solution: Fresh boiled, Distilled or deionized water.
Procedure:
 Immerse the test specimen in the test solution with occasional agitation approximately
15 minutes.
 Remove the test specimen from the test solution and only pass between squeeze rolls
to remove excess liquor (wet pick up 2.5 – 3.0)
 Place the test specimen between glass or plastic plates and insert in the specimen unit
of the perspiration tester.
 Adjust the perspiration tester to produce a pressure of 4.5 kg on the test specimen.
 Keep in oven at 38±1 (100±2for 18 hr.
 Remove the tester from the oven.
 Place the multifibre fabric and test fabric specimen separately on a wire screen in a
conditioned atmosphere 21 ± 1(70 ± 2 ) and 65 ± 2 relative humidity overnight.
Evaluation:
After condition, Assess the specimen for color change & staining using AATCC Ref Gray
Scales.
Color Fastness to Perspiration (AATCC 15):
Objective:
To determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effect of acid perspiration.
Apparatus & Materials:

78 URMI Group
 Perspiration test kit
 Oven
 pH meter with an accuracy of 0.01
 Electric Balance accurate to 0.001g
 Multi-fibre
 Gray Scales for color change & staining
Sampling:
 Specimen Size: 6 cm x 6 cm
 Multifibre Size: 5 cm x 5 cm
Attach multifibre& fabric face side in shorter edge
Solution:
 10±0.01g sodium chloride (NaCl)
 1±0.01g lactic acid, USP 85 %
 1±0.01g Sodium Phosphate, dibasic, anhydrous (Na2HPO4)
 0.25±0.001 g l-histidine monohydrochloride (C6H9N3O2.HCL.H2O)
 Fill the volumetric flask with distilled water to the 1 L mark
 Test the pH of the solution with a pH meter.If it is not 4.3 ± 0.2 discard it.
Procedure:
 Place the test specimen in a petri dish (9cm dia x 2cm depth )& pour the test solution
1.5 cm deep . Soak it with squeezing for 30+2 mins.
 Remove the test specimen from the test solution and only pass between squeeze rolls
to remove excess liquor ( wet pick up 2.25±0.05)
 Place the test specimen between glass or plastic plates and insert in the specimen unit
of the perspiration tester.
 Adjust the perspiration tester to produce a pressure of 4.5 kg on the test specimen.
 Keep in oven at 38±1 (100±2) for 6 hr.
 Remove the tester from the oven.
 Place the multifibre fabric and test fabric specimens separately on a wire screen in a
conditioned atmosphere 21±1 ( 70 ± 2 ) and 65± 2 relative humidity overnight
Pilling Resistance Test (ASTM D3512)
Objective: To define the resistance to pilling or surface fussing of a textile material
Apparatus:
 Random Tumble Pilling Tester
 Cork Liner
 Cotton Sliver
 Pilling Assessment Viewer

79 URMI Group
Specimen Size:
3 specimens each 105 mm square to be cut randomly along 45 degree angle with warp & weft
yarn.
Procedure:
 Check the cork liner & door gasket. These should be clean and free from lint & dirt.
 Each side of the cork liner should be discarded.
 Open the chamber door, Place the specimen with 25 gm cotton sliver in the test
chambers, and close the chamber door.
 Switch ON the „Operate‟ switch.
 Set timer 30 minutes.
 Turn on the air injection switch. Air pressure should be 2 – 3 psi.
 Press the start button to begin the test. After 30 minutes machine will stop
automatically.
 Then remove the specimen from the test chamber.
Evaluation: Evaluate the three specimen in the pilling assessment viewer
Batch preparation:
After knitting, fabrics are taken to the grey store room and made ready for dyeing/finishing.
Process of making them ready is called batching. Operations done in batching are:
•Fabrics to be dyed are arranged according to the Order sheet, Dyeing shade, m/c capacity,
m/c availability, type of fabric, priority of work.
•Fabrics are turned towards the back side.
•Fabrics that contain lycra, are slatted in slitter machine and send to stenter machine for heat
setting at 190°C
Flow Chart of Batch Preparation:
The priority as per dyeing plan was made

80 URMI Group
One specific Batch card was taken.
The Batch Card for own understanding was read
Required quantity of body fabrics from ware-house was taken.
Required no. of Rope maintaining equal weight was made.
Take collar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight.
The collar /cuff or Rib in each rope equally unsure equal weight was distributed
The production report form was filled up.
Purpose of Batch Section:
 To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.
 To turn out the tubular fabric in its grey stage and to safe the face side of the fabric
from any type of friction during the time of dyeing.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-
 Order sheet (Receive from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (Color or white, light or Dark)
 M/c available
 Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC)
 Emergency.
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

81 URMI Group
 To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Criteria of proper batching:
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process :
Amount ofdifferent Ingredients used in different
stages of pretreatment:
Ingredient Quantity
Wetting agent 1.2 g/l
Anti-creasing
agent
1.0 g/l
Sequestering
agent
1.0 g/l
Caustic 2.5 g/l
Stabilizer 0.5 g/l
Hydrogen per
oxide (H2O2)
3.0 g/l
NEUTRALIZATION

82 URMI Group
Dyeing:
Acetic acid 1 g/l
DYEING
Leveling agent 2 g/l
Dyes 10 g/l
Salt 2 g/l
Soda ash
AFTER
TREATMENT
Acetic acid 1 g/l
Soaping agent 1 g/l
SOFTENING
Acetic acid 0.5 g/l
Softener 1 g/l

83 URMI Group
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or
garment form by treatment with a dye.
Process Flow chart of Dyeing:
Fabric Receive From Inspection Section
Batching
Fabric Turning
Sewing & Fabric Loading
Pretreatment
Dyeing
After Treatment
Unload
DYEING MACHINE SPECIFICATION:

84 URMI Group
S
L.
N
o.
Brand
Name
Origin Model Year
of
Man
u.
Max.
Worki
ng
Temp.
°C
Max.
Workin
g
Press
Capaci
ty
(Kg)
Types of
Fabric
Dyeing
01 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DM-EN-
729-3
2005 135 3 bar 15 All types of
Fabric
02 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DM-EN-
729-3
Fabric
03 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DIN-EN-
729-3
Fabric
04 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
-Jetflow
Fabric
05 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
-Jetflow
Fabric
06 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
-Jetflow
Fabric
07 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
-Jetflow
Fabric
08 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
-Jetflow
Fabric
09 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
2005 135 2.5bar 1050 All types of
Fabric

85 URMI Group
10 Tong Geng
Enterprise Co.
LTD.
TAIWA
N
TGRU-NUV-
6-
900
2006 98 - 900 Without
Polyester all
types of Fabric
11 Tong Geng
Enterprise Co.
LTD.
TAIWA
N
TGRU-NUV-
4-
600
2006 98 - 600 Without
Polyester all
types of Fabric
12 Tong Geng
Enterprise Co.
LTD.
TAIWA
N
TGRU-NUV-
8-
300
2006 100 - 300 Without
Polyester all
types of Fabric
13 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
2007 135 2.5 bar 1400 All types of
Fabric
14 J&X CHINA HF-8-50 2008 100 Unlimited 50 Without
Polyester all
types of Fabric
15 J&X CHINA HF-8-100 2008 100 - 100 All Cotton
Fabric
16 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
2008 135 2.5 bar 1050 All types of
Fabric
17 THEN CHINA SYN1000
G2
Fabric
G2
Fabric
19 GUANGDON
G
HESHAN
HONGFA
COMPLETE
SOLUTIONS
MACHINE
LTD.
CHINA WGR202 2010 135 3 bar 20 Tape, Belt etc.
20 DILMENLER TURKIY
E
DMS11
HT Jumbo
2010 135 2.5 bar 175 All types of
Fabric
21 DILMENLER TURKIY DMS11 2010 135 2.5 bar 350 All types of

86 URMI Group
E HT Jumbo Fabric
22 EA (BD) PPM BANGL
ADESH
EA (BD)
PPM-15
2010 100 Unlimited 15 Without
Polyester all
types of Fabric
ADESH
EA (BD)
PPM-50
Polyester all
types of Fabric
G2
Fabric
ADESH
EA (BD)
PPM-15
Polyester all
types of Fabric
ADESH
EA (BD)
PPM-15
Polyester all
types of Fabric
ADESH
EA (BD)
PPM-25
Polyester all
types of Fabric
Production parameters:
Particulars PH Temperature Time
Scouring bath 11.00 980C 40-50 min
Enzyme bath 4.5-5.0 500-550C 50 min
Dye bath 5.5-6.5 --- ---

87 URMI Group
Soaping bath 6.5-7.0 900C-980C 20 min
Softening bath 6.0 400C-450C 20 min
Fixing bath 5.5-6.0 450-500C 20 min
Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process:
Liquor ratio : 1:8
Scouring : 1: 8
Light and critical color : 1: 8
Normal and dark color : 1: 7
Turquoise Color : 1: 10
Soaping : 1: 8
Softening : 1:5 – 6
Pretreatment Process:
Process Flow Chart for Demineralization (If necessary):
Fabric load
↓
Water fill

88 URMI Group
↓
Nearpon BWLF/ NOF + A. Acid (Run time10´)
↓At 60ºC
Drain bath
Process Flow Chart for Scouring & Bleaching
Water fill
↓
Fabric Load
↓
Detergent/wetting agent + S.A + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject) at 500c
↓ At 600C
Caustic (Linear dosing 5´)
↓At 700C
H2O2 dosing 10 min
↓At 70ºC
Then temp. raised to 1100C & run 30´
↓
Cooling 800c
↓
Rinse 5 ‘
↓
Drain& Fill Water
↓
Normal Hot 900c at 10 min
↓
Rinse 5’ (Sample check)

89 URMI Group
↓
Water drain& Fill Water
↓
H2O2 Killer at 800C
↓20 min
Acetic Acid (PH check – 4.5)
↓
Enzyme (Dosing for 10´)
↓Run 60´ at 55ºC
Drain & Fill water
↓
Normal Hot at 800C
↓ Run 10´
Rinse 10’
↓
Water drain
Example of Recipe for Pretreatment (Approximately):
Demineralizing:
 Detergent(Nearpon BWLF/NOF)- 0.8 g/l
Scouring & Bleaching:
 Detergent (Nearpon BWLF/NOF) - 0.8 g/l
 Ant creasing( Anticrease-D) – 0.5 g/l
 Antifoaming ( Kappasol AF-200 ) - 0.1 g/l
Enzyme wash

90 URMI Group
 Stabilizer (GEISTABS RS) – 0.5 g/l
 Sequestering (Jinlov ECO DL/PS) – 0.5 g/l
 Caustic soda ( caustic Soda L/C) – 2.0 g/l
 Peroxide(Antiper R) -7.0 g/l
Neutral:
 Peroxide killer (Geiszyme PR)
 Acetic acid– 1.0 g/l
Enzyme:
 Acetic acid L/C – 1.0 g/l
 Enzyme(Bio Polish B6oon) – 1.5g/l
Dyeing process:
Dyeing process of Cotton:
After Pretreatment Fill Water
Cotton Leveling agent+S.A
Color dosing (500CX 10´)
(Run time: 10/15´)

91 URMI Group
Salt dosing (500C X 10´)
(Run time: 20´)
(Salt Sample Check)
Soda dosing (500C X 40´), [PH: 6-7]
(Run time: 20´)
Color steam, 60-700C (20/min)
(Run time: 60´)
Sample check
If Ok (Fixing & softening should be done)
If not ok then it will take more time about 40´ or 60´& if remain light shade 1st acid wash
then hot wash & if remain dark shade 1st hot wash then acid wash should be done.
Rinsing wash (15´/20´)
B.D& Fill water
Acetic acid (400C)
R.t:20´
Rinsing wash 10/15´
Drain & Fill Water
Washing agent
Hot wash for deep shade, 950C X 15/20´

92 URMI Group
For normal shade 900/800C X 10/15´
Cooling (Sample Check )
(If OK)
Rinse-10‟
Drain & Fill water
Fixing Agent (for deep shade, R.t:15´ X 400C)
Rinsing wash 10/15´
Drain & Fill water
Softening at 40/450 C X 20/25´
Final Sample check (if ok)
Rinse 10‟
Unload
Example of Recipe (Approximately):
Dye bath: Dyestuff:
 Levelling (Croscolor ADM) – 1.5 g/l Bezactive yellow S-Matrix 150:
0.7800%
 Ant creasing (TFV) – 1.0g/l Bezactive Red S-Matrix 150 :
0.800%
 Sequestering (Jinsoft ECO ECA) – 0.5 g/l Bezactive Blue S-Matrix 150 :
2.3400%
 Glubersalt (G.salt) – 80 g/l
 Soda ash – 20 g/l
Aftertreatment:

93 URMI Group
 Acetic acid L/C– 1.0g/l
 Washing agent (Avolan IS W) – 0.5 g/l
 Fixing agent (Kappafix-GG 100) – 1.5%
 Softener AWSP – 5%
Common Dyeing Faults:
1. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing
- Using dyes of high fixation property
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:
Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals
- Dyes lot variation
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio
- Improper pretreatment
Remedies
- Use standard dyes and chemicals

94 URMI Group
- Maintain the same liquor ratio
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature
in the process.
- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily
3. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
- Higher liquor ratio
5. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the
large un-dissolved particles are removed
6. Softener Mark:
Causes:

95 URMI Group
- Improper mixing of the Softener
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition
- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Finishing:
The objectives of finishing operations are to treating textile product in to a presentable form.
Finishing process includes chemical and mechanical process. The extent of finishing process
depends on the fabric quality and the requirements of the finishing product. Finishing process
is employed for controlling fabric GSM, shrinkage, improving fabric appearance and to make
more lusters.
Objective of Finishing:
- Improving the appearance like Luster, whiteness etc.
- Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness,
fullness, etc.
- Wearing qualities, no soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, comfort etc.
- Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing etc.
- Covering the faults on the original cloth.
- Increasing the weight of the cloth.

96 URMI Group
Types of Finishing:
Finishing is done in two ways-
1. Open Finish
2. Tube Finish
a. The machines that are used for open line are given bellow –
b. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –
Flow-chart of Finishing:
Finishing
Open Finish Tube Finish
Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing
StenteringDryin
Inspection Compacting
Delivery Inspection
Delivery

97 URMI Group
Flow chart:
For Peach finish/Brush:
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓
Sueding/Raising
↓
Stenter
↓
Compacting
For Lycra:
Slitting
↓
Heat Setting
↓
Sewing
↓
Drying
↓
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓

98 URMI Group
Compacting
List of Machine for Finishing:
Sl. Brand Name Origin Manu.
Year
Model M/c Type Mx
Speed/min
01 BIANCO Italy 2010 - Slitting m/c 90
02 BIANCO Italy 2006 - Rib & Tube
Slitting m/c
80
03 BIANCO Italy 2004 M03575-017792 Slitting m/c 90
04 BRUCKNER Leon berg,
Germany
2009 - Stenter -
05 SUN SUPER
S
South Korea 2004 IS-SST-60P(V1.1) Stenter 100
06 FAB-CON Port Washington
N.Y
- PAT.N.4.175.738 Rib & Tube
Finish
-
07 LAFER SPA Italy 2010 KSA500 -
08 FERRARO Italy 2004 Comptex/RA-
2800
Compacting -
09 DILMENLER Turkiye 2006 Dryer m/c -
10 TUMBLE
DRYER
- - Garments
Drying
-
11 LAFER
ULTRA
SOFT-L
Italy - - peach m/c -
12 LAFER Italy - - One side
Brush m/c
-
Process of Finishing:
Rope Squeezing Machine:
Functions of the machine:
 De-twisting the fabric rope

99 URMI Group
 To remove the water from the fabric
 To control the width of the fabric.
 Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.
 To remove the crease mark of the fabric
Machine Set-up:
M/C parameters Set up value
Padder pressure 1 to 6 bar
Speed 20 to 90 m/min
Over Feed 10 to 20 %
Fig: Rope Squeezing M/C
Stenter machine:
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter
machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for Heat
setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted.
The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform
width.
Functions of Stenter Machines:
1.Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric,Synthetic And Blended Fabric.
2.Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3.Finishing chemical apply on the fabric by the stenter.

100 URMI Group
4.Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
5.Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
6.Spirality controlled by the stenter.
7.GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter
8.Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
9.Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
10.Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
Components of Stenter Machine:
 Paders
 Weft straightner(Mahlo)
 Burners
 Heat recovery
 Attraction rollers
 Circulating fans
 Exhaust fans
 Winder
 Clips
 Pins
 Cooling Drums
Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the padders
where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is corrected.The fabric is
entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also
weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a
disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are
greater than the clips.these clips and pins are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10
chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to
separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and
exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch
the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of the
machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.temperature is
adjusted that according to the fabric as for,

101 URMI Group
1. PC 210 c
2. Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.
Specification of a Bruckner Stenter Machine:
Brand Name Bruckner
Origin Germany
Year of
manufacture
2009
Speed range 15-30 m/min
Temperature range 50-220C
Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air,
Steam
Per chamber lenght 3 meter
No. of chamber 8
Maximum fabrics
width
102”
Minimum fabric
witdth
30”
Steam pressure 2 bar
Air pressure 10 bar
Applied for Open tube fabric
No. of ratamatic
burner
16
No. of blower 32
M/C parts Burner,Nozzle, Exhaust air fan,
Over feed roller, Suction fan,
Chain arrangement

102 URMI Group
Fig: Bruckner Stenter Machine
Specification of a SUN SUPER S Stenter Machine:
Brand Name SUN SUPER S
Origin South Korea
Temperature range 50-220C
Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air,
Steam
Per chamber lenght 3 meter
No. of chamber 6
Applied for Open tube fabric
No. of ratamatic burner 12
No. of blower 12
M/C parts Burner,Nozzle, Exhaust air fan,
Over feed roller, Suction fan,
Chain arrangement

103 URMI Group
Fig: SUN SUPER S Stenter Machine
Example:
Finishing Procedure for 100% cotton fabric:
Temp : 180
Over feed : 5
Speed : 34 m/min
Stretching : 10%
Bypass system : N/a (Color & Silicon are used in chemical bath)
Grey GSM : 160
Grey Dia : 48
After Finishing
GSM : 140
Dia : 51
Finishing Procedure for 95% Viscose+5% lycra fabric:
Temp : 160
Over feed : 39.3
Speed : 34 m/min
Stretching : 4%
Bypass system : N/a (Chemicals are used in chemical bath)
Grey GSM : 220
Grey Dia : 70
After Finishing
GSM : 196
Dia : 74
Finishing Procedure for 90% Polyester+10% lycra fabric:
Temp : 140

104 URMI Group
Over feed : 20
Speed : 43 m/min
Stretching : 2%
Bypass system : N/a (Color & Silicon are used in chemical bath)
Grey GSM : 120
Grey Dia : 62
After Finishing
GSM : 118
Dia : 64
Heat set procedure for Lycra Polyester:
Temp : 190
Over feed : 35
Speed : 30 m/min
Stretching : 6%
Bypass system : Without any water or chemical the fabric passing with the
Roller/padder
Grey GSM : 120
Grey Dia : 58
After Finishing
GSM : 115
Dia : 60
Compactor:
Function of the machine:
 To control the GSM.(Increase & decrease)
 To control the dia.

105 URMI Group
 To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease)
 To smooth the fabrics surface
Fig: Compactor m/c
Machine Set-up:
Temperature 120-130 ºC
Compaction 2 to 10 %
Speed 8 to 40 m/min
Compactor 02:
Function of the machine:
 To control the GSM.(Increase)
 To control the dia.
 To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease)
 To smooth the fabrics surfa

106 URMI Group
Fig: Compactor m/c
Machine Set-up:
Temperature 90 - 145 ºC
Compaction 2 to 8 %
Speed 8 to 40 m/min
Over Feed 10 to 30 %
Compaction measurement:
Compaction measurement is doing for make a report of shrinkage for a fabric. How much
increase or decrease in length or width of a fabric after finishing is measuring by compaction
measurement.Fabrics have the tendency to shrink in washing, due to tensions introduced
during the spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and in some finishing operations.This
operation consists in applying chemical products or mechanical treatments(compacting,
sanforizing and stentering machine) in order that the clothing hasthe minimum dimensional
alterations after being manufactured.
Compaction parameters for a fabric:
Gray GSM
Width
Length
After finishing:
GSM
Width
Length
Dryer:
Functions:
1. To dry the fabric with help of steam
2. To control the shrinkage
3. To prepare for next subsequent process
4. To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension

107 URMI Group
Main parts of the machine:
1. Heating chamber (3)
2. Blower (3)
3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor
4. Folder
5. Exhaust fan
Heating system:Gas fired.
Utility:
1. Gas (to make fire)
2. Electricity (to rum the machine)
3. Compressed air (to spread the fire)
Working principle of dryer:
After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. This machine contains two chambers.
Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and
filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through
the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor
net .When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it.
There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the
ducting line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If
the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also
low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480
m/min.

108 URMI Group
Printing:
To add value in color Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd has in-house Garments printing facility.
Its printing section is well equipped with necessary equipment from film to screen
development. Printing section has the ability to print Pigment, Silicon, Puff, Flock, Glitter,
Metal stone and Rubber.
Printing System:
Hand screen printing
Screen Printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing
Automatic Rotary Screen Printing
Flow chart of Printing section:
Artwork from merchandiser
↓
Design input
↓
Design development
↓
Positive/film
↓
Print taken
↓
Requisition by merchandiser
↓
Panel (cutting fabric parts)
↓
Expose (frame adjusted)

109 URMI Group
↓
Fila and frame adjusted
↓
Water spray
↓
Panel send to buyer
↓
Buyer approval
↓
Sale sample
↓
Counter sample
↓
P P production
↓
Accessories booking
↓
Requisition by merchandiser for fabric
↓
Fabric received and store
↓
Count the fabric
↓
Inspection the fabric
↓
Fabric adjusted
↓
Bulk production start

110 URMI Group
↓
Hydro extractor from dryer
↓
Inspection
↓
Finishing
↓
Delivery
Types of print:
 Rubber print
 Pigment print(Water base print)
 Foil print
 Discharge print
 Puff print
 Glitter print
 Afsan print
 High density print
 Plastisol print
 Crack print
 Gel print
 Sticker/transfer print
 Reflective
Design:
Artwork receive from development

111 URMI Group
↓
Detail design perform & analyze by Adobe Photoshop & illustrate
↓
Prepare individual film for different color by work express software
↓
Send to expose room
Screen Preparation:
Mesh fabric tight with frame
Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.
Placed design paper under the mesh.
Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.
Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.
Sequence of printing:
Count garment parts

112 URMI Group
Screen preparation
Printing paste preparation
Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion
Printing the garment part by using screen
Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow
Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 c
Inspection is done in qualify control department
Process for Foil Printing:
Add adhesive on the require design by screen
Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C

113 URMI Group
Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec
Garments Printing Chemicals:
1. White paste-i)
Asublanc E-BT
ii) Asublanc E-V 375
iii) Asulak E 961
2. Matt clear paste-i)
Asulak E-BT
ii) Asulak 250
iii) Asulak E-pu
iv) Asulak E-po
3. Paste for m/c print :
i) Asublance P
ii) Asulak E-ns
iii) Asulance E-ns
4.pigment paste:
i) Asuprint E-BT
ii) Asuprint E-NS
5.Binder:
I) Asucryl EAP 50 NEW
6. Thickener:
i) clear EPG AC
7.Discharse paste
8.Pearl paste

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9.Alternate of Flock print: Asulak E-peach Coat
10.Cross linking / Fixing agent
11. Radium paste
12.Foil paste
13.Glitter Binder
14.Reflective paste
15.Pritig softener
16.Table gum/Adhesive
Common print defects:
 Measuring fault
 Print missing
 Wrong color
 Hand feel not correct
 Color migration problem
 Not properly attach
 Dirty marks
 Uneven print
 Air bubble
 Air hole
 Shade variation
Major causes of print defects:
 Screen & print body are not in same axis
 Irregular wash of screen frame
 Wrong color recipe
 Insufficient drying of previous color

115 URMI Group
 Inaccurate composition of fixture
 Improper heat & pressure
 Dirty environment
Auto screen shot:
 Faster production
 High color combination
 Immediate drying between two consequetive print
Not suitable for:
 Large & complete body print
 High density, flock & multiple colour, discharge print.
Manual screen shot:
 Generally all types of print are performed
 More time consuming
 Drying performed by hand or auto dryer
HEAT PRESS M/C:
 GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print
 Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique
 Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure
Drying:
 Hand drying
 Auto drying

116 URMI Group
It is performed to dry previous color temporally
Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color
Curing:
Curing is the ultimate drying of print. Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print.
Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.

117 URMI Group
CHAPTER-08
GARMENTS SECTION

118 URMI Group
Sequence of garments manufacturing process:
Side operation Operation Method
Design / Sketch Manual/Computerized
Basic Block Manual/Computerized
Working pattern Manual/Computerized
Sample section Sample making Manual
Basic manufacturing difference Manual
Approved sample Manual
Costing Manual
Production pattern Manual/Computerized
Marker making Manual/Computerized
Cutting section Fabric spreading Manual/Computerized
Cutting Manual/Computerized
Numbering Manual
Sorting & bundling Manual
Sewing Manual
Initial inspection Manual
Finishing / Pressing Manual
Final inspection Manual
Packing Manual
Cartooning Manual
Send to buyer Manual
Flow sequence of merchandising section:

119 URMI Group
Received PDF sheet
Consumption
Costing
Negotiation with buyer
Order received
Purchase order sheet received
L.C opening
Purchase fabric & accessories
Time and action setting
Approval for bulk production
Related work to production planning
Start bulk production
Inspection
Handover to buyer nominated agents
Work done by Merchandiser:
 Sourcing
 Pricing (CM,C&F,CIF,FOB)
 Order follow up and execution
 Arranging final inspection
 Ensuring on time shipment.
Order follow-up and execution:
They do it during running the production. As a result if any fault occurring it rectified in the
primary stage.
Arranging final inspection:
After completion the garment making merchandiser arrange final inspection date with quality
department. Inspection is also depending on the wishes of buyer.

120 URMI Group
Ensuring on time shipment:
Once the inspection is done and the goods found ok for shipment, then the goods handed over
to the clearing and forwarding agent for on time shipment.
Types of order:
 FOB (Free on Board) Order.
 FOA (Free on Air) Order.
 C & F (Cost & Freight) Order.
 CIF (Cost Insurance Freight) Order.
 CIFC (Cost, Freight, Insurance and Commission) Order.
 CMT (Cost of Making and Trimmings) Order.
 CM (Cost of Making) Order.
 TT (Telephone Transfer) Order.
 Subcontract Order.
 Exchange Order.
 CMC (Cutting, Making and Cartoon) Order
Cost Analysis:
Costing:
Costing of garment is a very necessary and important task. In this factory costing is carried
out by the merchandising department. Firstly, merchandiser contacts with the buyer and
collects order. Then he is provided a sample from sample section according to the buyer‟s
specification. The sample also supplies the fabric consumption. Cost of the fabric is
determined according to this consumption. Then he makes costing the other materials,
accessories, trimmings etc. He adds then all the production cost, Transport cost, Commission
(buying house, C&F agent) and profit.
Costing of Garments:
Fabric Cost
+
Accessories Cost

121 URMI Group
+
Production Cost
+
Transport Cost
+
Commission
+
Profit
Accessories:
 Sewing thread and sew able item
a. Thread
b. Button
c. Main label
d. Size label
e. Care label
f. Velcro (Hook and loop fastener)
g. lace
 Finishing item:
a. Price ticket
b. Hang tag
c. Poly bag
d. Back board
e. Neck board
f. Collar inside
g. Butter fly (Single, Double)
h. Tag pin
i. Tissue paper
j. Draw string and stopper

122 URMI Group
Flow sequence of sample section is given below:
Receive developed sheet from buyer
Develop the sample
Send the sample to buyer for approval
Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary)
Send pre-production sample to buyer
Start bulk production
Pattern making:
After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they make
sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern by own when
buyer don not give any pattern.
Marker making:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just
before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to
the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width
of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric. The pattern pieces should
be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize wastages.
Objects of Marker making:
 To reduce cost;
 To improve the quality of the garments;
 To reduce the cutting time;
 To facilitate large scale production
CUTTING SECTION

123 URMI Group
Sequence of spreading and cutting:


Automatic Cutting Machine
STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
Cutting Section Quality Control:
The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section.
Quality Inspection for Marker:
 Every parts Measurement check,
 Calculate the total no. of parts of each Garments,
 Marker length & width determined.
Fabrics Roll spreading Inspection:
 Roll number,
 GSM,
 Shade number,
 No. of lays,
 Ends of Bits
Spreading Quality Control (Defects):
 Table marking,
 Ends,
Inspection
Marker making with the aid of CAD
Spreading (Manual or Spreading m/c)
Cutting(Manual or
Computerized
Received
Pattern from
Sample
section
Sorting and Numbering
Inspection
Pieces sent to Sewing
Received Finished Fabric

124 URMI Group
 Splices or Joints,
 Leaning,
 Tension,
 Counts,
 Remnants,
 Fabrics flaws,
 Marker placing,
During Cutting Quality Control:
 Miss cut,
 Matching plies,
 Ragged Cutting,
 Notches,
 Pattern Check
After Cutting
 100% part Checking.
 Numbering & Bundle Quality Control.
 Reject Panel Replacement.
SEWING SECTION
Sewing:
The process of joining fabric or seam is called Sewing.
Elements of Sewing:
 Sewing Thread,
 Needle &
 Sewing Machine
Flow-Sequence of Sewing Section:
Cutting fabric load in sewing section
Line plan according to style or design
Marking
Matching according to bundle no.
Sewing according to Garments design or style
Quality inspection during sewing
Quality inspection after sewing

125 URMI Group
Excess Thread cutting
Remove dirt & dust from Gmts surface
Quality Audit
Send to next process.
Sequence of garment production:
Sewing sequence of Jacket:
Contrast joint with the pocket by pressing.
Pocket rolling
Number matching with body & Pocket
Pocket joint
ZigZag top sin over Pocket
Numbering & gathering back & front pants
Solder joint
Top sin on the solder joint line
Collar make
Chain stitching on collar marking line
Collar Joint
Collar over locked in joining line
Numbering sleeve and body part
Sleeve joins with body
Zigzag top sin on Arm hole

126 URMI Group
Zipper piping
Side sewing /body sewing by over lock
ZigZagtopsin (side sewing line)
Bottom hem tuck sewing
Tuck bottom hem with body parts
Arm hole tuck
Botton hem top sin Zigzag
Cuff making
Cuff joint
Cuff top sin ZigZag
Zipper joint with body part
Collar tape part joint with zipper side
Collar taping part join with body part
Zipper top sin
Collar top sin
Label joint with body part
Quality Table
(Arm hole point, sleeve hem, Bottom hem, Top sin, side seam, Thread cutting. Spot etc are
inspected)
SEWING SEQUENCE OF T-SHIRT:
Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side)
Solder stitching (By over lock m/c)
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
Neck rib joins with body pant

127 URMI Group
Neck top sin
Solder to solder back tip
Size label sewing
Solder to solder back top sin
Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts.
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
Sleeve joint with the body part
Side sewing and care label joint
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
Bottom hem sewing
Arm bottom hem joint
Inspection
Sewing Defects:
 Needle damage,
 Skip stitches,
 Thread Breakages,
 Broken Stitches
 Seam Grin
 Seam Puckering
 Pleated Seam
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stitch density
 Staggered stitch
 Improperly formed stitches
Work-study department:
This department evaluates, each apparel sewing line for planned output and actual output. If
the actual output is less than the planned output than on the shop floor executive of this
department do the case study and try to find out the reason and solution so that desire output
must come out fromsewing line. Following are the main tools of these departments;

128 URMI Group
1. Line balancing: - Sewing line must be evaluated after learning curve for time and
work balancing of each operator. If any unbalances observed because of the different
level of efficiency of different operator than after evaluation a new plan must be made
for smooth flow of work.
2. Method improvement: – For every sewing operation, plenty of method may be use.
Therefore for any bottleneck operation a new better method must be find out for
assisting or helping operator.
3. Trained and motivated employee: – For higher productivity this is an important tool
and company should start policies and schemes for trained and motivated employee.
For example „target with quality achieve incentive‟ etc.
Line balancing:
Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machine according to style and design of garment.
It depends of that what type of garment we have to produce.
The Objectives of Line Balancing:
Line balancing is a main part of a mass production. These kinds of systems, regardless of
being different in details, are workstations in a sequence. Row material is included in the line
at the beginning or in the middle. Parts included in the system transfers from one workstation
through the other and at the end leaves the system as a completed product. Transfer lines uses
manpower very little when compared to assembly lines. The certain properties of Transfer
lines are transfer and process of a product automatically through a line.
Objectives that should be gained balancing an assembly line are as follows;
 Regular material flow;
 Maximum usage of man power and machine capacity;
 Minimum process times;
 Minimizing slack times;
 Minimizing workstations;
 Maximum outputs at the desired timed;
 Agreed quality maintenance of the garments;
 Reduce production costs.
Importance of Line Balancing:
The importance of line balancing could be summarized as follows –
 Good line balancing increases the rate of production;
 This is the pre-condition for smooth production;

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