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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd

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15 de Dec de 2014
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd
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Industrial attachment of urmi garments ltd

  1. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 1 URMI Group INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF URMI GROUP
  2. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 2 URMI Group CHAPTER – 1 COMPANY PROFILE Name of Company : Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. (Concern of Urmi Group) Address : GhargariaMasterBari,Kewa,sreepur,Gazipur,Bangladesh Head Office : 235/B,Tejgaon Industrial Area,Dhaka-1208,Bangladesh Phone : +88 02 8878584 Fax Number : +88 02 8878587 Website : www.urmigroup.net Concern of URMI Group:  Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.  Urmi Garments Ltd.  Attires Manufacturing Co. Ltd.
  3. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 3 URMI Group Inception of Urmi Group Dates back to n1984 when Urmi Garments Ltd. was set up. Today they are one of the leading manufacturers & exporters of knit garments in Bangladesh. Over the last Two Decades, by offering the best blend of quality, efficiency and productivity to their valued customers, they have been able to grow up from a 50 machines stitching unit to a composite textile having knitting, dyeing and finishing facilities of about 20 tons fabric and 70,000 pcs garments per day.
  4. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 4 URMI Group Strength of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.: Their Goal is to achieve zero tolerance in production by upgrading total quality management and proper production management. FTML srength Proffessional Management Team Latest Machinery & Technology Proactive Planning Competetive Pricing Focus on Continuous Improvement Dedicated & Competent Workforce
  5. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 5 URMI Group FACTORY INFORMATION: Factory Type : 100% Export Oriented Knit Composite Industry. Year of Establishment : 2004 Investor : Asif Ashraf Cell No. :0171-521090 Location : Gargaria Master Bari, Kewa, Sreepur, Gazipur Telephone : 9289539, 0171684935 E-mail:ftml@urmigroup.net, Annual Turnover : About Tk. 50, 00, 00,000 to 55, 00, 00,000 Certification & Awards : ISO 9001: 2000, WRAP,OekoTex& GOTS(Global Organic Textile Standard) Bank Name & Address: Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd. 75, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh. Telex:642525 IBANK BJ S.W.I.F.T. –IBBLBDDH102 Contact Person: Mr. Hafizur Rahman –Sr. General Manager, Cell no. - 01711-560980 Mr. RuhulKuddus –Deputy General Manager, Dyeing, Cell no.- 01713-013028 Mr. Moniruzzaman –Asst. General Manager, Knitting, Cell no. - 01712-106405
  6. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 6 URMI Group Capacity & Machineries Floor space: 320,000 Square Feet Knitting machine : 82 nos Knitting per day : 15,000 Kgs Dyeing machine : 27 nos Dyeing per day : 20,000 Kgs Finishing Per Day : 20,000 Kgs Stenter machine : 02 nos Open width compactor : 02 nos Tension free dryer : 01 nos Tubular compactor : 01 nos Slitting & squeezing machine: 03 nos Brushing machine : 02 nos Tumble dryer : 02 nos Fabric inspection machine : 06 nos Printing Unit Floor space : 26,000 square feet Carosol print machine : 04 nos Glass table : 16 nos with 400 feet Capacity : 25,000 pcs per day with multi color average size printing
  7. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 7 URMI Group Embroidery Unit Machines : 20 Head 04 nos,06 Head 01 nos Capacity : 3000 million stitches per day Main Production : Men’s, Ladies, Boy’s, Girls & Infant -Polo Shirt, T-Shirt, Tank Tops, Shorts, Trouser, Fleece Jacket, Vest etc Compliance & Certificates: Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. is extremely particular to meet all levels of compliances at national and international levels Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. use AZO free dyes and chemicals and are certified by OekoTex, WRAP GOLD Certificate, GOTS(Global Organic Textile Standard. In Fakhruddin Textile MillsLtd..all personnel are equipped with the necessary safety gear and trained to combat any accidents that may take place. As they are ISO 9001:2000 for its QMS certificate for manufacturing responsible textile manufacturing process.
  8. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 8 URMI Group Their Sporting skill in Textile production includes: All Kinds of S/J, Rib, Interlock, Pique, French Terry, Brushed Fleece, Drop Needle,different type of design etc. on : 100% Polyester,100% Cotton & Different blend of Cotton and Polyester. Cotton –Elastane. 100% Organic Cotton. Blend of Organic and normal Cotton. 100% Modal. 100% Viscos Viscos- Elastane Cotton-Modal Polyamide- Elastane T/C & CVC We are Impregnable in producing Special Fabrics like : Coolmax . Soil / Stain Release. Water Repellent Silpur Finish ( Anti Bacterial) UV Finish. 3X dry finish Polyjen
  9. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 9 URMI Group Process Flowchart: Stentering/Drying Yarn Special finish/ Brushing/Sueding / Print Slitting/Dewateri ng Dyeing Knitting Greige Batch preparation Turning/reversing Quality Check As per confirmation of lab dip Heat Setting Quality Check Physical Inspection Lab QC Finished Goods In line QC Compacting In line inspection Check point: Yarn count Slub / Strength / evenness 4-Point System Quality Check Shrinkage, Rubbing, Bursting, spirality, Fastness to wash, perspiration, pilling etc. Stentering/Drying
  10. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 10 URMI Group CHAPTER-2 MAN-POWER MANAGEMENT Manpower of Fakhruddin Textile Mills ltd.:
  11. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 11 URMI Group Unit Officer & Staff worker Total FTML Textile 260 940 1200 FTML Garments 575 3248 3823 Total 835 4188 5023 Professionals Working For: SL.no. Name of Education Persons 01 Masters 106 02 BBA/MBA 29 03 Industrial Engineering 06 04 B.Sc. In Textile Engineering 42 05 B.Sc. In Mechanical Engineering 02 06 B.Sc. In Electrical Engineering 03 07 B.Sc. In Computer Science and Engineering 03 08 CA (CC) 03 09 MBBS 02 10 PGDHRM 02 11 L.L.B 02 12 Diploma In Engineering 60 Total 260 ORGANOGRAM:
  12. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 12 URMI Group MD/Director AGM Work Study AGM Commercial Chief Operating Officer AGM Accounts & Finance AGM Admin.HR & Comp. DGM Commercial DGM Dyeing DGM Project Implementation AGM Cutting AGM Knitting Sr. AGM Accounts & Finance AGM Production AGM Merchandising AGM Quality DGM Merchandising DGM Production [Factory Manager] Textile Garments HR, Admin & Compliance Planning & Work study Store Merchandising Project Commercial Accounts & Finance Sr. GM Store Company Secretary Sr. GM
  13. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 13 URMI Group CHAPTER-3 RAW MATERIALS Raw Material Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric. Types of Raw Materials:
  14. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 14 URMI Group 1. Yarn 2. Grey Fabric 3. Dyes 4. Chemical Raw Materials Sources: Yarn: Some Factory Name of Yarn Suppliers,  Square Textile Mills  Padma Textile Mills  Mosharaf Textile Mills ltd.  Prime Composite Mills  Israq Textile Mills ltd.  Badsha Textile Mills ltd.  Shamsuddin Spinning  Tara Textile Mills ltd.  PHP Textile Mills ltd.  Numan Spinning Mills ltd. Different Yarn And Count for Knitting: SL/No Yarn Type Composition Yarn Count 01 Carded Yarn 100% Cotton 10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30, 32s, 34s, 02 Combed Yarn 100% Cotton 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s, 50s, 60s.
  15. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 15 URMI Group 03 G/M (Viscose %) 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40% 04 Spun Yarn 100% Polyester 36D, 70D, 72D, 75D, 05 PC Polyester + Cotton 24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s, 06 CVC Cotton + Polyester 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s 07 C/M Cotton 50% + Polyester 50% 26s, 28s, 30s, 08 Lycra Synthetic 20D, 40D, 70D, Grey Fabrics: Following types of grey fabrics are dyed-  Single jersey  Double jersey  Single jersey with lycra  Interlock  Single Lacoste  Double Lacoste  Rib  Lycra rib  1 x 1 rib & others  Collar & cuff  Polyester fabrics  Single Pique  Double Pique  Terry Fleece  Fleece Sources: The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. Chemicals: 01. Soda ash light 24. Mcropan DPE 02. Caustic Soda 25. Cibapon R 03. Common salt 26. Ctobalance NSR 04. Glauber Salt 27. Rucozen RES
  16. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 16 URMI Group 05. H2O2 28. TinofixFRd 06. Acetic Acid 29. Lily XXL powder 07. Oxalic Acid 30. RewanAcp 08. Bleaching Powder 31. Cibatex ECO 09. Hydrose 32. Invatex CRA 10. Leuphore BMB 33. Heptole EMG 11. Uvtex BHT 34. Cibafluide C 12. Uvtex BHV 35. Biovin 109 13. Uvtex BAM 36. Tinozym 44L 14. Syno White 4BK 37. Beizym ULBD 15. Uvtex BFE 38. Invatex PC 16. Albatex FFC 39. Invatex AC 17. CHTE nt. K50 40. Catalar BF 18. InvadineLun 19. Feloson NOF 20. Invadine DA Dyes: 01. Solazol Black sp GRI 21. Cibacron Blue FNR 02. Reactofix Red ME4BL 22. Cibacron Blue FGFN 03. Cottofix Red ME4BL 23. Cibacron Navy WB 04. Reactofix Orange ME2RL 24. Drimarin Yellow CL2RL 05. Reactofix N.ME2GL 25. Drimarin Red CL5B 06. Reactive Yellow H4GL 26. Drimarin Violet K2RL
  17. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 17 URMI Group 07. Reactive Deep Black N 27. Drimarin Navy CLB 08. Cottofix Black B 28. Drimarin Blue CT2R 09. Reactive Blue R(SP) 29. Bezaktrive Yellow S3R 10. Remazol Red RR 30. Bezaktrive Yellow SLF 11. Remazol Yellow RR 31. Bezaktrive Yellow V GL 12. Remazol Blue RR 32. Diss Yellow F5GL 13. Remazol Blue BB NEW 33. Diss Red BF 14. Remazol T. Blue G 34. Diss Blue FRL 15. Remazol B Yellow 3GL 35. Diss Navy 2GL 16. Remazol Red RGD 36. Diss Black EXNSF 17. Cibacron Red FN2BL 37. Terasil Black WNS 18. Cibacron Red FB 38. Terasil Red FB 19. Cibacron Red FN3G 39. Terasil Red WFS 20. Cibacron Red WB 40. Terasil Red W4BS Remarks: Fakhruddin Textile Mills Limited. uses best quality raw materials. It produces fabrics from best quality yarn. They uses the best quality dyes like REMAZOL, REACTRON, REACTIVE,TERACIL etc. During the time of using dyestuff they give importance upon the quality of dyes than the price of the dyes and chemicals.
  18. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 18 URMI Group CHAPTER-04 INVENTORY CONTROL AND UTILITY Store & inventory control: Frequency of Inventory Control:  Monthly inventory control  Annual inventory control Scope of Inventory Control:  Raw materials  Dyes store  Others chemicals store
  19. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 19 URMI Group  Grey fabrics  Finishing fabric  spare parts  General store  Capital equipment  Accessories  Stationary  Maintenance parts. Inventory system for raw materials:  Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head office.  Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received quantity is mentioned & noted down.  Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected.  Entry of data of goods in DATATEX.  Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group.  Department gives store requisition to warehouse.  As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down. Stages of grey fabric inventory control:  After knitting production  Grey inspection  Warehouse  Batch preparation  Dye house. Stages of finished fabric inventory control:  Finishing section  After final inspection  Warehouse.
  20. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 20 URMI Group Utility: SL MACHINE NAME BRAND ORIGIN QUANTITY (Nos) CAPACITY 01 GAS GENERATOR WAUKESHA U.S.A 02 750 KW 02 BOILER COCKRAN U.K 03 4500 KG 03 DIESEL GENERATOR DAIHATSU JAPAN 01 550 KW 04 COMPRESSOR COMP AIR GERMANY 01 5.5 m3/MIN 05 PUMP KSB INDIA 01 80-120 m3/Hr 06 BOOSTING PUMP KSB DPVF-65- 30 INDIA 06 65 m3/Hr Moreover Urmi Group have the following facilities for smooth operation: • Stand by Generator to run the full factory • Fire protection system • Sufficient volume of water reservoir at underground & overhead. • Quality electrical cable with circuit breakers • Separate toilets for male & female workers • Sufficient ventilation is provided by installing ceiling fans, exhaust fans, large windows • Factory premises is always kept neat & clean • We do not have any child labor • Doctor & Nurse are provided to take care of workers health • Canteen for workers • Day care center • Work study center
  21. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 21 URMI Group CHAPTER-05
  22. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 22 URMI Group MARKETING STRATEGY Marketing Strategy: Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer . If the marketing strategy is not so developed , it will be very hard to reach the goal . In case of garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor. In Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers , merchandiser & higher officials deal with the buyer . There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the year . The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to collect the orders . Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produce in this industry are exported to various country . Clients of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.: Buyer Country Lidl Germany S.Oliver Germany
  23. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 23 URMI Group Tchibo Germany Puma Germany Marks & Spencer UK H&M Sweden Ellos Sweden LaRedoute France Litex UK Vertbaudet France Auchen France Decathlon France Brylane USA Toray Japan Meters Bonwe China Ernesting’s Family Germany
  24. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 24 URMI Group Main Products: Polo Shirt, Sweat Shirt, Ladies rib tops, basic and fancy polo, T-Shirt,Tank-Tops, Sweat Tops and bottoms for all age range of male and female. CHAPTER-06 KNITTING SECTION
  25. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 25 URMI Group Knitting: Knitting is a process of manufacturing a fabric by inters looping of yarns. Knitting is the second most important method of fabric formation. It can be defined as a needle technique of fabric formation, in which, with the help of knitting needles, loops are formed to make a fabric or garment. Fabric can be formed by hand or machine knitting, but the basic principle remains exactly the same i.e. pulling a new loop through the old loop. In other words, Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. It is a fabrication process i.e. intermeshing series of loops of one or more yarns or from a set of yarns. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, a garment. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine .Different yarns and knitting needles may be used to achieve different end products by giving the final piece a different color, texture, weight, and/or integrity. Using needles of varying sharpness and thickness as well as different varieties of yarn can also change the effect. A
  26. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 26 URMI Group knitted fabric is the third major class of fabric, after woven and nonwoven fabrics. In knitting, the inter-lopping is carried out by needles (may be Latch or beard or compound needle etc), the needles are equipped on a cylinder and Needle butt moves between the grooves of cams to accomplish knitting cycle and producing the fabric. The shape of the needle cam grooves depends on the required knitting pattern. All over the world, the majority of knit fabrics are manufactured on circular knitting machines. The high performance level of these machines, the different materials and the range of yarn counts that they are able to process, the wide variety of designs and stitches are some of the reasons which have granted circular machines the market leadership in the knitting sector. Layout Of Knitting Section:
  27. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 27 URMI Group Knitting Machine Specification: M/C M/C Name or Country Year M/C Type Dia& No. of No. of
  28. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 28 URMI Group No. Brand Name of Origin of Manu. Gauge Feeder Needle 01 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 02 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*24 84 2464 03 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*24 84 2464 04 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 30*28 90 2639 05 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 30*28 90 2639 06 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 30*28 90 2639 07 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 32*28 96 2815 08 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 32*28 96 2815 09 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 32*28 96 2815 10 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 34*28 102 2991 11 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 34*28 102 2991 12 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 34*28 102 2991 13 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 36*24 108 2715 14 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 36*24 72 2715 15 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Double Jersey 36*18 72 2036 16 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 36*18 72 2036 17 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Double Jersey 36*18 72 2036 18 KEUMYONG M/C CO. LTD. KOREA 2007 Double Jersey 38*18 90 2149 19 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 40*18 80 2262 20 PAOLO ORIZIO ITALIA 2002 Double Jersey 30*18 60 1697 21 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 42*18 84 2376 22 KEUMYONG M/C CO. LTD. KOREA 2007 Double Jersey 42*18 84 2376 23 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Single Jersey 24*24 72 1810 24 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Single Jersey 24*24 72 1810 25 PAI LUNG M/C TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 26*24 78 1961
  29. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 29 URMI Group CO. LTD. 26 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Single Jersey 26*24 78 1961 27 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*24 84 2112 28 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*24 84 2112 29 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2003 Double Jersey 40*18 80 2262 30 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2003 Double Jersey 36*18 72 2036 31 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Double Jersey 32*18 64 1810 32 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 32*18 64 1810 33 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Double Jersey 30*18 60 1697 34 KEUMYONG M/C CO. LTD. KOREA 2007 Single Jersey 40*24 120 3016 35 KEUMYONG M/C CO. LTD. KOREA 2007 Single Jersey 40*24 120 3016 36 KEUMYONG M/C CO. LTD. KOREA 2007 Single Jersey 36*24 120 2715 37 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Single Jersey 36*24 108 2715 38 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2009 Single Jersey 34*24 102 2564 39 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 30*24 90 2262 40 PAOLO ORIZIO ITALIA 2002 Single Jersey 30*24 90 2262 41 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 30*24 90 2262 42 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 26*24 78 1961 43 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 30*24 90 2262 44 PAI LUNG M/C CO. LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 30*24 90 2262 45 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 32*24 96 2413 46 PAI LUNG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 32*24 96 2413 47 PAI LUNG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN 2004 Single Jersey 32*24 96 2413 48 KEUMYONG M/C CO. LTD. KOREA 2007 Single Jersey 34*24 102 2564 49 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 51 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464
  30. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 30 URMI Group 52 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 53 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 54 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 55 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 56 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 57 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 58 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 59 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 60 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 61 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 62 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 63 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 64 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 65 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 66 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 67 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 68 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 69 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 70 JIUNN LONG M/C CO.LTD. TAIWAN Single Jersey 28*28 84 2464 71 FUKAHARA CHINA Auto Stripe (Double Jersey) 72 FUKAHARA CHINA Auto Stripe (D/J) Process flow chart of knitting: Cone from spinning Creeling the cone
  31. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 31 URMI Group Yarn feed by different tensioner Adjust S/L, GSM, etc. by V.D.Q pulley Produce 0.5 m fabric, if fault found, it adjust After bulk production, cut the role Marking the role such as S/L, Diameter, GSM etc. Role inspection Gray Store Finishing/Dyeing Sequence of Yarn Feeding:
  32. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 32 URMI Group Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine: 1. Creel:Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Here yarn package are store and ready to feed in the machine. Creel Yarn Tube/Pipe Wheel Yarn Sensor Knot Catcher Positive Feeder Feeder Final Yarn Guide Needle
  33. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 33 URMI Group 2. Positive Feeders:Here number of yarn wounded on two positive feeder for smooth feeding of two yarn in the machine. 3. Feed Sensor:It is used in positive feeder to help the little display at the time of yarn breakage. At that time machine is stopped. 4. Final Yarn Guide:It controls the path of the yarn.
  34. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 34 URMI Group 5. Needle:Hooked metal part which is used to formation of loops. 6. Indicators:In any yarn breakage or any fault in the machine. Indicators are used to identify them. 7. Lubricants:The lubricator provides lubrication to needle, cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components.
  35. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 35 URMI Group 8. Fluff Blower:It removes the fiber, dust particle on the machine. 9. VDQ Pulley:It controls the stitch length as well as GSM of knit fabric. 10. Cam: Cams are knitting elements which cover rotary machine drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. 11. Cam Box:Where the cams are set horizontally.
  36. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 36 URMI Group 12. Cylinder:Needles are situated here. 13. Dial:Needles are situated here. It is used in double jersey knitting machine. 16. Needle Detector:This part detects the any type of faults of needles.
  37. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 37 URMI Group 17. Spreader:To control the width of the knitted fabric. 18. Taker-in:It is takedown the fabric in suitable tension. 19. Cloth Roller:Numbers of fabric layers are wound evenly. Other parts,
  38. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 38 URMI Group  Positive Feeder Belt  Knot Catcher  Top Gear Oil D/J  Yarn Tube/Pipe  Rotating Fan  Yarn Feeder Ring Ceramic  Yarn Feeder Ceramic  Lycra Guide/Wheel  Fabric Detector  Needle detector  Machine Gate  Take Down Side Gears  Fabric Roller Lock  Rubber Belt (Curling)  All Gear Greasing  All Type of Nut & Bolt Terms of Knitting: Course: Horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles in knitting cycle is called the course of the fabric. A course is a predominantly horizontal raw of needle loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle called course. (Loop length * No of loop). Wales: Vertical column of loops produced by same needle in knitting cycle is called the Wales of the fabric.
  39. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 39 URMI Group A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting cycles. i.e. The number of vertical columns of loop of knitted fabrics is called wale. Face loop: If the legs of new loop is passes over the old loop is called face loop. Back loop: If the legs of new loop is passes under the old loop is called face loop. Stitch density: The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a linear measurement of courses or Wales; it is the total number of needles loops in a square area measurement such as a square inch or three square centimeters. It is expressed as, Course per inch × Wales per inch. Stitch length: Length of one loop in the course direction express in mm. Number of needle: Machine diameter × Machine gauge × 3.1416. GSM: The weight of one square meter of fabric express in gram is known as GSM. Needle gauge: The needle gauge of a knitting machine is a measure expressed the no. of needle per unit of the needle bed or needle bar. As for example: 1. In case of circular weft knitting machine & Tricot warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per inch.] 2. In case of Raschel warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per two inch.]
  40. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 40 URMI Group Needle: There are three types of needle- 1. Bearded needle 2. Compound needle 3. Latch needle-  One butt needle.  Two butt needle.  Three butt needle.  Four butt needle. The most widely used needle is latch needle. Fig: Main parts of latch needle. Cam: Cam is called the specific path of the needles to produce a specific type of fabric.
  41. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 41 URMI Group There are three types of cam used in circular knitting machine: 1. Knit Cam. 2. Tuck Cam. 3. Miss Cam. Knit Cam: It moves the needle upward enough to clear the old loop and receive the new yarn. Tuck Cam: It moves the needle upward not enough to clear. The old loop but receive the new yarn. Miss cam: It does not move the needle upward. The needles neither clear the old loop nor receive the new yarn. Sinker: It is a thin metal plate with an individual or collective operation approximately at right angles at the hook side between adjacent needles.
  42. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 42 URMI Group Function of sinker: In circular knitting m/c sinker helps to form the loop by holding down the yarn Loop forming sequence of latch needle: Latch Opening: The needle goes upward and the sinker comes in action to hold down the loop. Then the old loop press down the latch and it gets open. Yarn Receiving:
  43. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 43 URMI Group The needle iscontinuous moving upward enough to receive the new yarn. The old loop remains on the open latch that is called tucking on the latch position. Clearing: The needle goes to its ultimate height to clear the old loop and the new yarn still within the reach of the needle. Landing: According to the path of cam, the needle starts moving downward. Being pushed by the old loop the latch gets closed and the new yarn is entrapped within the closed hook. Knock off: The needle continues moving downward. When it reaches at the down position, the old loop slides off from the back of the latch over the tip of the needle.This old loop then taken by the take up roller hangs from the new loop. Fabric Types: Single Jersey Rib Interlock
  44. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 44 URMI Group  Normal S/J  Fancy  Diagonal Fleece  Polar Fleece  Single Lacoste  Double Lacoste  High S/J  French Terry  Single Pique  Double Pique  (1*1) Rib  (1*2) Rib  Needle Drop Rib  Milano Rib  Flat back Rib  B-Waffle  FFL-Rib  Plain Interlock  Mesh  Net Mesh Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics: When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-  Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.  Finished G.S.M.  Yarn count  Types of yarn (combed or carded)  Diameter of the fabric.  Stitch length  Color depth Relationship between knitting parameter: 1. Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. 7. Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM Production Parameter:  Machine Diameter;  Machine rpm (revolution per minute);  No. of feeds or feeders in use;
  45. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 45 URMI Group  Machine Gauge;  Count of yarn. Responsibilities of a Production Officer :  Monitor and control shift wise production, plant utilization, waste generation etc. implement correct work methods and maintain all records related to production.  Responsible for systematic planning and execution of production programs.  Adequate control over process in order to achieve quality of product & better waste management.  Monitor shift wise production, utilization etc. and take corrective action for any shortfall.  Maintain all the procedure of his department and shall incorporate amendments as and when required in procedure.  Responsibilities for monitoring the performance of manpower under him and identification of training needs. Methods of increasing production: By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased – By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. By using machine of higher gauge:
  46. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 46 URMI Group The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased. By imposing other developments:  Using creel-feeding system  Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage  Using yarn feed control device  Using auto lint removal. Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change: a) Cam setting b) Set of needle c) Size of loop shape  If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase.  For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. Effect of stitch length on color depth: If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:
  47. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 47 URMI Group  Brought good quality yarn  Machines are oiled and greased accordingly  G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately  Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month  Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system Changing of GSM:  Major control by VDQ pulley  Minor control by stitch length adjustment  Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase Tension: Tension should be control for different yarns, because for tension variation yarns may be broke. Tension measured by Tension Meter. Yarn Tension (CN) Cotton (S/J) 4-5 Polyester (Single Jersey) 3.5-4 Double Jersey 2-2.5 CVC/Viscose 6-7 For Fleece Yarn: Yarn Tension (CN) Binding Cotton 3-4 Polyester 1 Knit 4-5 Tuck 8-10
  48. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 48 URMI Group Production Calculation: We took all the necessary data which is related to calculating production (kg/hr) while machine running. And here we show how to calculate different types of fabric production. Machine No-46: Single jersey (Plain): = 16.34 kg/hr = 130.73 kg/hr = 392.2 kg/day = 11765 kg/month or, 11.765 ton/month = 141.18 ton/year Machine No-20: (Double Jersey Rib)
  49. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 49 URMI Group = 7.12 kg/hr = 56.96 kg/shift = 5126.4 kg/month or, 5.13 ton/month = 61.52 ton/year Machine No-14: (Double Jersey Interlock) = 9.14 kg/hr = 73.13 kg/shift = 219.38 kg/day = 6.58 ton/month Relationship Between G.S.M, S/L & Count for different fabric: Single Jersey (Plain): G.S.M Count S/L (mm) 120 36/1 2.80 130 32/1 2.80 140 30/1 2.85 150 28/1 2.85 160 26/1 2.85/2.90 170 24/1 2.95
  50. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 50 URMI Group 175 24/1 2.90 180 24/1 2.85 200 20/1 3.10 210 20/1 3.05 220 20/1 3.00 Rib: G.S.M Count S/L (mm) 200 34/1, 20D 2.90/1.30 210 30/1 2.76 200 28/1 2.80 200 34/1, 75D 2.85/2.30 200/210 26/1 2.90 280 27/1 (CB) 2.90/1.18 Interlock: G.S.M Count S/L (mm) 190 36/1, 70D 1.65/1.15 Analysis of the Fabric: Design analysis:
  51. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 51 URMI Group
  52. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 52 URMI Group Fabric Consumption: Fabric Type = D-Fleece Fabric GSM = 340 S/L of 30 Ne Dyed cotton yarn = 4.70
  53. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 53 URMI Group S/L of 30 Ne Grey cotton yarn = 3.40 S/L of 10 Ne Dyed cotton yarn = 1.65 We know, Composition = S/L ÷ Ne Now, 4.7 ÷ 30 =0.15667 And, 3.4 ÷ 30 = 0.1133 And, 1.65 ÷ 10 = 0.165 Total = 0.434 Composition of 30 Ne Dyed yarn = (0.15667×100)÷0.434 = 36 Composition of 30 Ne Grey yarn = (0.1133×100)÷0.434 = 26 Composition of 10 Ne Dyed yarn =(0.165×100)÷0.434 = 38 So the composition are, 30 Ne Dyed cotton yarn : 30 Ne Grey cotton yarn : 10 Ne Dyed cotton yarn = 36:26:38 Sample analysis: Normal S/J:
  54. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 54 URMI Group Face Side Back Side Diagonal Fleece: Face Side Back Side Polar Fleece: Single Lacoste: Face Side Back Side
  55. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 55 URMI Group Face Side Back Side Double Lacoste: Face Side Back Side Single Pique: Face Side Back Side Double Pique:
  56. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 56 URMI Group Face Side Back Side Rib (1*1): Face Side Back Side B-Waffle: Face Side Back Side Full Feeder Lycra-Rib:
  57. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 57 URMI Group Face Side Back Side Flat back Rib: Face Side Back Side Milano Rib: Face Side Back Side Plain Interlock:
  58. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 58 URMI Group Face Side Back Side Mesh: Face Side Back Side Net Mesh: Face Side Back Side Quality Assurance System: 4 Point System:
  59. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 59 URMI Group Fault Points 0-3” 1 3”-6” 2 6”-9” 3 >9” 4 HOLE<1” 4 HOLE>1” 4 < 20 Point-A 20-30 Point-B Above- Rejected Knitted Fabric Faults:  Conta  Hole/Hole mark  Loop  Slub  Patta  Drop Stitch  Cloth Fall Out  Cotton Knit (Dust)  Soil Mark/ Oil Mark  Needle Mark  Barrieness  Neps  Miss Yarn  Lycra Missing  Black Spot  Rust stain  Pin hole  Grease stain  Fly Dust  Cloth fall- out  Other fault Calculation Related To Quality: Formula:
  60. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 60 URMI Group Example 01: Weight = 20 kg Points = 10 GSM = 180 Fabric Dia = 68 Now, = 70 yds = 7 Points = 7 So this is A Grade fabric. Example 02: Weight = 13.4 kg Points = 12 GSM = 160 Fabric Dia = 64 = 56 yds = 12 Points = 12 So this is A Grade fabric Quality Control M/C in Knitting Section:  Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : Uzu fabric inspection machine  Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.  Electric Balance for GSM check.  Compressor 2 pieces.
  61. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 61 URMI Group Faults & Remedies of knitting fabric: Hole Mark: Causes:  Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.  During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.  If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.  Badly knot or splicing.  Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies: 1.Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. 2.Use proper count of yarn. 3.Correctly set of yarn feeder. 4.Knot should be given properly. Needle Mark: Causes:  When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
  62. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 62 URMI Group  If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies:  Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. Sinker Mark: Causes:  When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.  If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies:  Sinker should be changed. Star Mark: Causes:  Yarn tension variation during production.  Buckling of the needle latch.  Low G.S.M fabric production. Remedies:  Maintain same Yarn tension during production.  Use good conditioned needles. Drop Stitches: Causes:  Defective needle.
  63. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 63 URMI Group  If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.  Take-down mechanism too loose.  Insufficient yarn tension.  Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies:  Needle should be straight & well.  Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.  Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.  Yarn tension should be properly. Oil Stain: Causes:  When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line. Remedies:  Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.  Well maintenance as well as proper oiling. Rust stain: Causes:  If any rust on the machine parts. Remedies:  If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.  Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling. Pin hole: Causes:  Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies:  Change the needle.
  64. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 64 URMI Group Grease stain: Causes:  Improper greasing  Excess greasing Remedies:  Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance Cloth fall- out: Causes: Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles. Remedies:  Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch. Barrieness:  A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s). Causes:  This fault comes from yarn fault.  If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.  Different luster, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.  During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
  65. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 65 URMI Group  In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver. Fly Dust: Causes:  In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production. Remedies:  Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.  By cleaning the floor continuously.  By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.  Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric. Yarn contamination: Causes:  If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,  If lot, count mixing occurs. Remedies:  By avoiding lot, count mixing.  Fault less spinning. Yarn Faults:  Naps.  Slubs.  Yarn count.  Thick/Thin place in yarn.  Hairiness.
  66. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 66 URMI Group Wastage: Held up for further inspection by quality manager and Assistant General Manager. If quality manager does not give any comment then he look up for AGM. And if AGM also does not give any comment then it send to dyeing section. Dyeing section can ok this problem then reject sample are considered as wastage or vice versa.
  67. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 67 URMI Group CHAPTER-07 DYEING AND FINISHING SECTION Layout Of Dyeing Section:
  68. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 68 URMI Group Machine’s Description:
  69. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 69 URMI Group Symbol Description 01 ICI Pilling and Snagging tester 02 Pilling Assessment Viewer 03 Crockmeter 04 Perspiration Tester 05 pH Meter 06 Count Testing Machine 07 Digital Reeling Twist Tester 08 Tumble Dryer (Accudry2) 09 Tumble Dryer(Electrolux) 10-11 Washing Machine 12 Rota Wash 13-15 Lab Dyeing Machine 16 Lab Dryer 17 Automatic Pipette Machine 18 Light Box Working Principle of Lab: Central Laboratory divided into two sections.
  70. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 70 URMI Group  Lab dip Development  Test  Fastness Test of fabric.  Water hardness measurement test. Steps of Lab Operation: Collect standard swatch / Panton from buyer Calculate recipe by CCM (Computer Colour Matching) system. No Calculate difference I,e ensure that produced recipe is close enough to target sample theoretically . Yes Produced sample. Yes Flow Chart of LAB DIP preparation: Yes Compare the target with produced sample. Yes Submit the sample for buyer approval. Yes Go to bulk production with correct recipe. Laboratory Equipment’s: SL/No Name of Equipment’s Model no./ Type Origin Unit Correction
  71. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 71 URMI Group 1 Spectrophotometer DATACOLOR / 650 USA 01 2 SDL “ECO” Infra-Red Lab Dyeing System d400IR/2 UK 03 3 Knit Shrinkage Tester Wascator from 71CLS LABWASHER- Extractor UK 01 4 Quick wash Plus Fabric system SDL-ATLAS UK 01 5 Rota Wash M 228 A UK 01 6 Standard Tumble Dryer 417 UK 02 7 Crock meter M238AA UK 01 8 Color Matching Cabinet G210A05 UK 01 9 Color Matching Cabinet Light Spectra LUX II DTM INDIA 01 10 Perspirometer M231 UK 01 11 Single End Yarn Strength Tester Y263 UK 01 12 Twist Tester Electronic Y220B UK 01 13 Yarn Examining machine 221 UK 01 14 ICI Pilling tester M227A UK 01 15 Digital PH /temp Meter G202 UK 01 16 Adventurer Electronic Balance G204/1A UK 01 17 Navigator Portable Electronic Balance G204VI UK 01 18 Fabric Yield Package System 236/1 UK 02 19 Wrap Reel Electronic Y219BM UK 01 20 Electrolux washing m/c Kit FOM -71 UK 02
  72. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 72 URMI Group 21 Electronic Sensor Dryer 471 UK 01 Laboratory dyeing procedure: There are four dyeing process are followed in FTML.They are given below-  Cotton Dyeing  Polyester Dyeing.  White Color Dyeing.  Turquoise color dyeing Preparation of Sample and Chemicals:  Liquor ratio 1:8  Making stock solution of dyestuff (0.25%,0.5%, 1%, 2%)  Making stock solution of chemicals. Soda ash = 20g/L, Glauber‟s salt = 20 g/L, Leveling agent = 1cc. Cotton Dyeing Procedure:  Add dyestuff, salt, leveling agent and alkali along with 5 gm sample fabric in a beaker.  Then raise the temperature to 600C.  After that run the machine for 60 min by grading 3/ min.  At last drop the temperature to 50. Wash Off:  Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out.  Soaping with detergent at 70ºC for 05 min.  Rinse with cold water and squeezing is done  Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade. Polyester Dyeing Procedure:  Add water, dyestuff, and salt, leveling and dispersing agent along with 5 gm sample fabric in a beaker at pH 4.5 in 400 C.  After that raise the temperature to 130. Then run the machine for 45 min.  At last drop the temperature to 60. Wash Off:  Rinse the sample with cold water until clear water come out.  Reduction clearing is done with 2 g/l caustic soda &hydrosol at 60-70 ºC for 10 min.  Soaping with detergent at 80ºC for 05 min.
  73. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 73 URMI Group  Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade. White Color Dyeing Procedure:  Add Water,OBA (4BK),leveling agent along with 5 gm sample fabric in a beaker.  After that raise the temperature to 90. Then run the machine for 45 min by grading 2/ min.  At last drop the temperature to 50. Wash Off:  Rinse the sample in running cold water.  Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade. Cotton Dyeing with turquoise color Procedure:  Add dyestuff, salt, leveling agent along with 5 gm sample fabric in a beaker at 600C.  Then raise the temperature to 800C by grading 30C/min and keep the temperature for 15 minutes.  Next cooling the temperature to 600C by 20C/min.  After that add alkali (soda ash+ Caustic Soda) by dosing and raise the temperature for 80 by grading 3/ min.  At last drop the temperature to 60. Wash Off:  Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out.  Soaping with detergent at 80ºC for 05 min.  Rinse with cold water and squeezing is done  Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade Description of Lab test Method: Color Fastness to crocking (AATCC 8): Standard Operating Procedure: Objective: To determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to other surface by rubbing. Apparatus & Materials:  Crockmeter  Crockmeter test cloth  White AATCC testile blotting paper  AATCC chromatic transference scale  Grey Scale for staining
  74. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 74 URMI Group Specimen Size : 50 cm x 130 cm Crock square Size: 5 cm x 5 cm Conditioning: Condition the specimen & crock square in conditioning atmosphere for 4 hrs. Procedure: For Dry Crocking: Place a test specimen on the base of the crock meter resting flat on the abrasive cloth with its long dimension in the direction of rubbing. Place specimen holder over specimen. Mount a white test cloth square on the finger. Use the special spiral wire clip to hold the test square in the place. Position the clip with loops upward. Lower the covered finger onto the test specimen. Beginning with the finger positioned at the front end, crank the meter handle 10 complete turns at the rate of one turn per seconds to slide the covered finger back and forth 20 times. Set and run the motorized tester for 10 complete turns. Remove the white test cloth square, For Wet Crocking: Wet out a crock square in the distilled water (Wet pick up s/b 65% ± 5%). Then continue the test as dry crocking. Air dry the specimen. Evaluation: Condition & evaluate the specimen using AATCC ref grey scale for color staining. Mass per Unit Area (Fabric Weight) (ASTM D3776): Standard Operating Procedure: Objectives: To measure weight per unit area of textile Specimen: 100cm2 Apparatus:  GSM cutter  Electronic Balance with an accuracy of 0.001 Condition:4hrs condition before test at 20±2 65±5 RH Procedure:  Randomly cut five specimen by GSM cutter  Take weight individually  Let the weight in M Calculation: GSM = M x 100 ( g/m2) = GSM x 0.029 (oz / yd2)
  75. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 75 URMI Group Take average of the five. Color Fastness to Laundering (AATCC 61,2A): Standard Operating Procedure: Objective: To evaluate the color fastness to laundering of textiles, which are expected to withstand frequent laundering. Apparatus & materials:  Launder meter sets  Canister (1200±50) ml  Stainless steel balls  Multifibre test fabric  1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent WOB.  Distilled water. Preparation:  Specimen Size : 2” x 6”  Multifibre Size: 2” x 4” Attach Multifibre (fused) & fabric face in shorter edge Solution: 1.5 g AATCC WOB detergent per 1 liter distilled water Procedure:  150 ml solution with 50 steel balls in a 1200 ml canister 45 minutes at 49  Adjust the laundering machine to temp. 49.  Preheat the solution in a 1200 ml canister with 50 steel balls for 2 minutes.  Then put the specimen onto the canister & run the machine for 45 minutes.  Empty the contents into beakers.  Rinse test specimen three times, in 3 separate beakers with distilled water at (40±3 for 1 min.  Dry the specimen in an air circulating oven in which the temperature dose not exceed 71 Evaluation: After 1 hour condition, assess the specimen for color change & staining using AATCC Ref Grey Scales. pH of Water Extract of Textiles (AATCC 81): Standard Operating Procedure: Objectives: To determine the pH of an aqueous extract of a textile material.
  76. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 76 URMI Group Apparatus:  Glass Beaker  pH meter  Electronic Balance  Buffer Solution (pH 4.0 - 7.0 & 10.0) Specimen:10 ± 0.1 gm specimen cut into small pieces Solution: 250 ml distilled water in 400 ml beaker. Procedure:  Boil 250 ml of distilled water at a moderate rate for 10 min.  Put the specimen; cover the beaker with a watch glass.  And boil for an additional 10 min.  Allow the covered beaker to cool to room temperature.  Remove the specimen with tweezers. Evaluation:Measure the pH of the extract using a calibrated pH meter Dimensional Stability to Washing (AATCC 135) Standard Operating Procedure: Objective: To determine the shrinkage & Elongation of a textile component, after a defined number of washing & drying cycles. Apparatus:  Template  Indelible Ink  Metal rule graduated in mm Condition: Prior to making condition specimen for 4 hours at conditioning atmosphere. Sample Preparation:  Place the template with one of its side parallel to the selvage & at least (150 ± 10) mm from selvage.  Trace a square of 10” x 10” with the four corner hole using their exterior sides.  Cut out all around the template so that you have a sample of 15” x 15” Procedure:  Measure with marking three length (L1, L2, L3) & width (W1, W2, W3) of the square securing each bench mark 5 inch apart from another.  Perform the number of washing & drying required by the applicant.  Condition for 4 hrs, flat without fold.  Measure after wash length (L‟1, L‟2, L‟3) & width (W‟1, W‟2, W‟3) Calculation:
  77. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 77 URMI Group Calculate shrinkage according to the formula: Shrinkage % = (After wash – Before wash) / before wash x 100 Color Fastness to water (AATCC 107): Standard Operating Procedure: Objective: To measure the resistance of water of dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile yarns or fabrics Specimen Size:  Specimen: 6 cm x 6 cm  Multifibre: 5 cm x 5 cm Attach multifibre and fabric face side in shorter edge. Solution: Fresh boiled, Distilled or deionized water. Procedure:  Immerse the test specimen in the test solution with occasional agitation approximately 15 minutes.  Remove the test specimen from the test solution and only pass between squeeze rolls to remove excess liquor (wet pick up 2.5 – 3.0)  Place the test specimen between glass or plastic plates and insert in the specimen unit of the perspiration tester.  Adjust the perspiration tester to produce a pressure of 4.5 kg on the test specimen.  Keep in oven at 38±1 (100±2for 18 hr.  Remove the tester from the oven.  Place the multifibre fabric and test fabric specimen separately on a wire screen in a conditioned atmosphere 21 ± 1(70 ± 2 ) and 65 ± 2 relative humidity overnight. Evaluation: After condition, Assess the specimen for color change & staining using AATCC Ref Gray Scales. Color Fastness to Perspiration (AATCC 15): Standard Operating Procedure: Objective: To determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effect of acid perspiration. Apparatus & Materials:
  78. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 78 URMI Group  Perspiration test kit  Oven  pH meter with an accuracy of 0.01  Electric Balance accurate to 0.001g  Multi-fibre  Gray Scales for color change & staining Sampling:  Specimen Size: 6 cm x 6 cm  Multifibre Size: 5 cm x 5 cm Attach multifibre& fabric face side in shorter edge Solution:  10±0.01g sodium chloride (NaCl)  1±0.01g lactic acid, USP 85 %  1±0.01g Sodium Phosphate, dibasic, anhydrous (Na2HPO4)  0.25±0.001 g l-histidine monohydrochloride (C6H9N3O2.HCL.H2O)  Fill the volumetric flask with distilled water to the 1 L mark  Test the pH of the solution with a pH meter.If it is not 4.3 ± 0.2 discard it. Procedure:  Place the test specimen in a petri dish (9cm dia x 2cm depth )& pour the test solution 1.5 cm deep . Soak it with squeezing for 30+2 mins.  Remove the test specimen from the test solution and only pass between squeeze rolls to remove excess liquor ( wet pick up 2.25±0.05)  Place the test specimen between glass or plastic plates and insert in the specimen unit of the perspiration tester.  Adjust the perspiration tester to produce a pressure of 4.5 kg on the test specimen.  Keep in oven at 38±1 (100±2) for 6 hr.  Remove the tester from the oven.  Place the multifibre fabric and test fabric specimens separately on a wire screen in a conditioned atmosphere 21±1 ( 70 ± 2 ) and 65± 2 relative humidity overnight Pilling Resistance Test (ASTM D3512) Standard Operating Procedure: Objective: To define the resistance to pilling or surface fussing of a textile material Apparatus:  Random Tumble Pilling Tester  Cork Liner  Cotton Sliver  Pilling Assessment Viewer
  79. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 79 URMI Group Specimen Size: 3 specimens each 105 mm square to be cut randomly along 45 degree angle with warp & weft yarn. Procedure:  Check the cork liner & door gasket. These should be clean and free from lint & dirt.  Each side of the cork liner should be discarded.  Open the chamber door, Place the specimen with 25 gm cotton sliver in the test chambers, and close the chamber door.  Switch ON the „Operate‟ switch.  Set timer 30 minutes.  Turn on the air injection switch. Air pressure should be 2 – 3 psi.  Press the start button to begin the test. After 30 minutes machine will stop automatically.  Then remove the specimen from the test chamber. Evaluation: Evaluate the three specimen in the pilling assessment viewer Batch preparation: After knitting, fabrics are taken to the grey store room and made ready for dyeing/finishing. Process of making them ready is called batching. Operations done in batching are: •Fabrics to be dyed are arranged according to the Order sheet, Dyeing shade, m/c capacity, m/c availability, type of fabric, priority of work. •Fabrics are turned towards the back side. •Fabrics that contain lycra, are slatted in slitter machine and send to stenter machine for heat setting at 190°C Flow Chart of Batch Preparation: The priority as per dyeing plan was made
  80. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 80 URMI Group One specific Batch card was taken. The Batch Card for own understanding was read Required quantity of body fabrics from ware-house was taken. Required no. of Rope maintaining equal weight was made. Take collar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight. The collar /cuff or Rib in each rope equally unsure equal weight was distributed The production report form was filled up. Purpose of Batch Section:  To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.  To turn out the tubular fabric in its grey stage and to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of friction during the time of dyeing.  To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-  Order sheet (Receive from buyer)  Dyeing shade (Color or white, light or Dark)  M/c available  Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC)  Emergency.  To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
  81. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 81 URMI Group  To keep records for every previous dyeing. Criteria of proper batching:  To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.  To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.  To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.  To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade. Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process : Amount ofdifferent Ingredients used in different stages of pretreatment: Ingredient Quantity Wetting agent 1.2 g/l Anti-creasing agent 1.0 g/l Sequestering agent 1.0 g/l Caustic 2.5 g/l Stabilizer 0.5 g/l Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2) 3.0 g/l NEUTRALIZATION
  82. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 82 URMI Group Dyeing: Acetic acid 1 g/l DYEING Leveling agent 2 g/l Dyes 10 g/l Salt 2 g/l Soda ash AFTER TREATMENT Acetic acid 1 g/l Soaping agent 1 g/l SOFTENING Acetic acid 0.5 g/l Softener 1 g/l
  83. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 83 URMI Group Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye. Process Flow chart of Dyeing: Fabric Receive From Inspection Section Batching Fabric Turning Sewing & Fabric Loading Pretreatment Dyeing After Treatment Unload DYEING MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
  84. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 84 URMI Group S L. N o. Brand Name Origin Model Year of Man u. Max. Worki ng Temp. °C Max. Workin g Press Capaci ty (Kg) Types of Fabric Dyeing 01 DILMENLER TURKIY E DM-EN- 729-3 2005 135 3 bar 15 All types of Fabric 02 DILMENLER TURKIY E DM-EN- 729-3 2005 135 3 bar 15 All types of Fabric 03 DILMENLER TURKIY E DIN-EN- 729-3 2004 135 3 bar 50 All types of Fabric 04 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo -Jetflow 2005 135 3 bar 175 All types of Fabric 05 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo -Jetflow 2004 135 3 bar 225 All types of Fabric 06 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo -Jetflow 2004 135 3 bar 450 All types of Fabric 07 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo -Jetflow 2004 135 3 bar 675 All types of Fabric 08 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo -Jetflow 2005 135 3 bar 350 All types of Fabric 09 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo 2005 135 2.5bar 1050 All types of Fabric
  85. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 85 URMI Group 10 Tong Geng Enterprise Co. LTD. TAIWA N TGRU-NUV- 6- 900 2006 98 - 900 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 11 Tong Geng Enterprise Co. LTD. TAIWA N TGRU-NUV- 4- 600 2006 98 - 600 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 12 Tong Geng Enterprise Co. LTD. TAIWA N TGRU-NUV- 8- 300 2006 100 - 300 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 13 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo 2007 135 2.5 bar 1400 All types of Fabric 14 J&X CHINA HF-8-50 2008 100 Unlimited 50 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 15 J&X CHINA HF-8-100 2008 100 - 100 All Cotton Fabric 16 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo 2008 135 2.5 bar 1050 All types of Fabric 17 THEN CHINA SYN1000 G2 2013 140 3 bar 1000 All types of Fabric 18 THEN CHINA SYN1200 G2 2012 140 3 bar 1000 All types of Fabric 19 GUANGDON G HESHAN HONGFA COMPLETE SOLUTIONS MACHINE LTD. CHINA WGR202 2010 135 3 bar 20 Tape, Belt etc. 20 DILMENLER TURKIY E DMS11 HT Jumbo 2010 135 2.5 bar 175 All types of Fabric 21 DILMENLER TURKIY DMS11 2010 135 2.5 bar 350 All types of
  86. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 86 URMI Group E HT Jumbo Fabric 22 EA (BD) PPM BANGL ADESH EA (BD) PPM-15 2010 100 Unlimited 15 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 23 EA (BD) PPM BANGL ADESH EA (BD) PPM-50 2010 100 Unlimited 50 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 24 THEN CHINA SYN1000 G2 2013 140 3 bar 1000 All types of Fabric 25 EA (BD) PPM BANGL ADESH EA (BD) PPM-15 2012 100 Unlimited 15 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 26 EA (BD) PPM BANGL ADESH EA (BD) PPM-15 2012 100 Unlimited 15 Without Polyester all types of Fabric 27 EA (BD) PPM BANGL ADESH EA (BD) PPM-25 2012 100 Unlimited 25 Without Polyester all types of Fabric Production parameters: Particulars PH Temperature Time Scouring bath 11.00 980C 40-50 min Enzyme bath 4.5-5.0 500-550C 50 min Dye bath 5.5-6.5 --- ---
  87. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 87 URMI Group Soaping bath 6.5-7.0 900C-980C 20 min Softening bath 6.0 400C-450C 20 min Fixing bath 5.5-6.0 450-500C 20 min Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process: Liquor ratio : 1:8 Scouring : 1: 8 Light and critical color : 1: 8 Normal and dark color : 1: 7 Turquoise Color : 1: 10 Soaping : 1: 8 Softening : 1:5 – 6 Pretreatment Process: Process Flow Chart for Demineralization (If necessary): Fabric load ↓ Water fill
  88. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 88 URMI Group ↓ Nearpon BWLF/ NOF + A. Acid (Run time10´) ↓At 60ºC Drain bath Process Flow Chart for Scouring & Bleaching Water fill ↓ Fabric Load ↓ Detergent/wetting agent + S.A + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject) at 500c ↓ At 600C Caustic (Linear dosing 5´) ↓At 700C H2O2 dosing 10 min ↓At 70ºC Then temp. raised to 1100C & run 30´ ↓ Cooling 800c ↓ Rinse 5 ‘ ↓ Drain& Fill Water ↓ Normal Hot 900c at 10 min ↓ Rinse 5’ (Sample check)
  89. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 89 URMI Group ↓ Water drain& Fill Water ↓ H2O2 Killer at 800C ↓20 min Acetic Acid (PH check – 4.5) ↓ Enzyme (Dosing for 10´) ↓Run 60´ at 55ºC Drain & Fill water ↓ Normal Hot at 800C ↓ Run 10´ Rinse 10’ ↓ Water drain Example of Recipe for Pretreatment (Approximately): Demineralizing:  Detergent(Nearpon BWLF/NOF)- 0.8 g/l Scouring & Bleaching:  Detergent (Nearpon BWLF/NOF) - 0.8 g/l  Ant creasing( Anticrease-D) – 0.5 g/l  Antifoaming ( Kappasol AF-200 ) - 0.1 g/l Enzyme wash
  90. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 90 URMI Group  Stabilizer (GEISTABS RS) – 0.5 g/l  Sequestering (Jinlov ECO DL/PS) – 0.5 g/l  Caustic soda ( caustic Soda L/C) – 2.0 g/l  Peroxide(Antiper R) -7.0 g/l Neutral:  Peroxide killer (Geiszyme PR)  Acetic acid– 1.0 g/l Enzyme:  Acetic acid L/C – 1.0 g/l  Enzyme(Bio Polish B6oon) – 1.5g/l Dyeing process: Dyeing process of Cotton: After Pretreatment Fill Water Cotton Leveling agent+S.A Color dosing (500CX 10´) (Run time: 10/15´)
  91. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 91 URMI Group Salt dosing (500C X 10´) (Run time: 20´) (Salt Sample Check) Soda dosing (500C X 40´), [PH: 6-7] (Run time: 20´) Color steam, 60-700C (20/min) (Run time: 60´) Sample check If Ok (Fixing & softening should be done) If not ok then it will take more time about 40´ or 60´& if remain light shade 1st acid wash then hot wash & if remain dark shade 1st hot wash then acid wash should be done. Rinsing wash (15´/20´) B.D& Fill water Acetic acid (400C) R.t:20´ Rinsing wash 10/15´ Drain & Fill Water Washing agent Hot wash for deep shade, 950C X 15/20´
  92. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 92 URMI Group For normal shade 900/800C X 10/15´ Cooling (Sample Check ) (If OK) Rinse-10‟ Drain & Fill water Fixing Agent (for deep shade, R.t:15´ X 400C) Rinsing wash 10/15´ Drain & Fill water Softening at 40/450 C X 20/25´ Final Sample check (if ok) Rinse 10‟ Unload Example of Recipe (Approximately): Dye bath: Dyestuff:  Levelling (Croscolor ADM) – 1.5 g/l Bezactive yellow S-Matrix 150: 0.7800%  Ant creasing (TFV) – 1.0g/l Bezactive Red S-Matrix 150 : 0.800%  Sequestering (Jinsoft ECO ECA) – 0.5 g/l Bezactive Blue S-Matrix 150 : 2.3400%  Glubersalt (G.salt) – 80 g/l  Soda ash – 20 g/l Aftertreatment:
  93. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 93 URMI Group  Acetic acid L/C– 1.0g/l  Washing agent (Avolan IS W) – 0.5 g/l  Fixing agent (Kappafix-GG 100) – 1.5%  Softener AWSP – 5% Common Dyeing Faults: 1. Uneven dyeing: Causes: - Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). - Improper color dosing - Using dyes of high fixation property - Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers - Lack of control on dyeing m/c Remedies: - By ensuring even pretreatment - By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers - Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals - Proper controlling of dyeing m/c 2. Batch to Batch Shade variation: Causes: - Fluctuation of Temperature - Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals - Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals - Dyes lot variation - Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio - Improper pretreatment Remedies - Use standard dyes and chemicals
  94. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 94 URMI Group - Maintain the same liquor ratio - Follow the standard pretreatment procedure - Maintain the same dyeing cycle - Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. - Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process. - The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily 3. Crease mark: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal - Due to high speed m/c running Remedies: - maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed - Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature - Reducing the m/c load - Higher liquor ratio 5. Dye spot: Causes: - Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath - Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath Remedies: - By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals - By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed 6. Softener Mark: Causes:
  95. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 95 URMI Group - Improper mixing of the Softener - Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener - Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies: - Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed - Proper Mixing of the softener before addition - Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Finishing: The objectives of finishing operations are to treating textile product in to a presentable form. Finishing process includes chemical and mechanical process. The extent of finishing process depends on the fabric quality and the requirements of the finishing product. Finishing process is employed for controlling fabric GSM, shrinkage, improving fabric appearance and to make more lusters. Objective of Finishing: - Improving the appearance like Luster, whiteness etc. - Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc. - Wearing qualities, no soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, comfort etc. - Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing etc. - Covering the faults on the original cloth. - Increasing the weight of the cloth.
  96. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 96 URMI Group Types of Finishing: Finishing is done in two ways- 1. Open Finish 2. Tube Finish a. The machines that are used for open line are given bellow – b. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow – Flow-chart of Finishing: Finishing Open Finish Tube Finish Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing StenteringDryin Inspection Compacting Delivery Inspection Delivery
  97. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 97 URMI Group Flow chart: For Peach finish/Brush: Slitting ↓ Stenter ↓ Sueding/Raising ↓ Stenter ↓ Compacting For Lycra: Slitting ↓ Heat Setting ↓ Sewing ↓ Drying ↓ Slitting ↓ Stenter ↓
  98. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 98 URMI Group Compacting List of Machine for Finishing: Sl. Brand Name Origin Manu. Year Model M/c Type Mx Speed/min 01 BIANCO Italy 2010 - Slitting m/c 90 02 BIANCO Italy 2006 - Rib & Tube Slitting m/c 80 03 BIANCO Italy 2004 M03575-017792 Slitting m/c 90 04 BRUCKNER Leon berg, Germany 2009 - Stenter - 05 SUN SUPER S South Korea 2004 IS-SST-60P(V1.1) Stenter 100 06 FAB-CON Port Washington N.Y - PAT.N.4.175.738 Rib & Tube Finish - 07 LAFER SPA Italy 2010 KSA500 - 08 FERRARO Italy 2004 Comptex/RA- 2800 Compacting - 09 DILMENLER Turkiye 2006 Dryer m/c - 10 TUMBLE DRYER - - Garments Drying - 11 LAFER ULTRA SOFT-L Italy - - peach m/c - 12 LAFER Italy - - One side Brush m/c - Process of Finishing: Rope Squeezing Machine: Functions of the machine:  De-twisting the fabric rope
  99. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 99 URMI Group  To remove the water from the fabric  To control the width of the fabric.  Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.  To remove the crease mark of the fabric Machine Set-up: M/C parameters Set up value Padder pressure 1 to 6 bar Speed 20 to 90 m/min Over Feed 10 to 20 % Fig: Rope Squeezing M/C Stenter machine: A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for Heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width. Functions of Stenter Machines: 1.Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric,Synthetic And Blended Fabric. 2.Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 3.Finishing chemical apply on the fabric by the stenter.
  100. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 100 URMI Group 4.Loop of the knit fabric is controlled. 5.Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 6.Spirality controlled by the stenter. 7.GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter 8.Fabric is dried by the stentering process. 9.Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled. 10.Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter. Components of Stenter Machine:  Paders  Weft straightner(Mahlo)  Burners  Heat recovery  Attraction rollers  Circulating fans  Exhaust fans  Winder  Clips  Pins  Cooling Drums Working Procedure of Stenter Machine: The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
  101. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 101 URMI Group 1. PC 210 c 2. Cotton 110-130 c After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c. Specification of a Bruckner Stenter Machine: Brand Name Bruckner Origin Germany Year of manufacture 2009 Speed range 15-30 m/min Temperature range 50-220C Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air, Steam Per chamber lenght 3 meter No. of chamber 8 Maximum fabrics width 102” Minimum fabric witdth 30” Steam pressure 2 bar Air pressure 10 bar Applied for Open tube fabric No. of ratamatic burner 16 No. of blower 32 M/C parts Burner,Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over feed roller, Suction fan, Chain arrangement
  102. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 102 URMI Group Fig: Bruckner Stenter Machine Specification of a SUN SUPER S Stenter Machine: Brand Name SUN SUPER S Origin South Korea Temperature range 50-220C Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air, Steam Per chamber lenght 3 meter No. of chamber 6 Applied for Open tube fabric No. of ratamatic burner 12 No. of blower 12 M/C parts Burner,Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over feed roller, Suction fan, Chain arrangement
  103. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 103 URMI Group Fig: SUN SUPER S Stenter Machine Example: Finishing Procedure for 100% cotton fabric: Temp : 180 Over feed : 5 Speed : 34 m/min Stretching : 10% Bypass system : N/a (Color & Silicon are used in chemical bath) Grey GSM : 160 Grey Dia : 48 After Finishing GSM : 140 Dia : 51 Finishing Procedure for 95% Viscose+5% lycra fabric: Temp : 160 Over feed : 39.3 Speed : 34 m/min Stretching : 4% Bypass system : N/a (Chemicals are used in chemical bath) Grey GSM : 220 Grey Dia : 70 After Finishing GSM : 196 Dia : 74 Finishing Procedure for 90% Polyester+10% lycra fabric: Temp : 140
  104. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 104 URMI Group Over feed : 20 Speed : 43 m/min Stretching : 2% Bypass system : N/a (Color & Silicon are used in chemical bath) Grey GSM : 120 Grey Dia : 62 After Finishing GSM : 118 Dia : 64 Heat set procedure for Lycra Polyester: Temp : 190 Over feed : 35 Speed : 30 m/min Stretching : 6% Bypass system : Without any water or chemical the fabric passing with the Roller/padder Grey GSM : 120 Grey Dia : 58 After Finishing GSM : 115 Dia : 60 Compactor: Function of the machine:  To control the GSM.(Increase & decrease)  To control the dia.
  105. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 105 URMI Group  To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease)  To smooth the fabrics surface Fig: Compactor m/c Machine Set-up: M/C parameters Set up value Temperature 120-130 ºC Compaction 2 to 10 % Speed 8 to 40 m/min Compactor 02: Function of the machine:  To control the GSM.(Increase)  To control the dia.  To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease)  To smooth the fabrics surfa
  106. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 106 URMI Group Fig: Compactor m/c Machine Set-up: M/C parameters Set up value Temperature 90 - 145 ºC Compaction 2 to 8 % Speed 8 to 40 m/min Over Feed 10 to 30 % Compaction measurement: Compaction measurement is doing for make a report of shrinkage for a fabric. How much increase or decrease in length or width of a fabric after finishing is measuring by compaction measurement.Fabrics have the tendency to shrink in washing, due to tensions introduced during the spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and in some finishing operations.This operation consists in applying chemical products or mechanical treatments(compacting, sanforizing and stentering machine) in order that the clothing hasthe minimum dimensional alterations after being manufactured. Compaction parameters for a fabric: Gray GSM Width Length After finishing: GSM Width Length Dryer: Functions: 1. To dry the fabric with help of steam 2. To control the shrinkage 3. To prepare for next subsequent process 4. To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension
  107. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 107 URMI Group Main parts of the machine: 1. Heating chamber (3) 2. Blower (3) 3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor 4. Folder 5. Exhaust fan Heating system:Gas fired. Utility: 1. Gas (to make fire) 2. Electricity (to rum the machine) 3. Compressed air (to spread the fire) Working principle of dryer: After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net .When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting line. The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.
  108. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 108 URMI Group Printing: To add value in color Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd has in-house Garments printing facility. Its printing section is well equipped with necessary equipment from film to screen development. Printing section has the ability to print Pigment, Silicon, Puff, Flock, Glitter, Metal stone and Rubber. Printing System: Hand screen printing Screen Printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing Automatic Rotary Screen Printing Flow chart of Printing section: Artwork from merchandiser ↓ Design input ↓ Design development ↓ Positive/film ↓ Print taken ↓ Requisition by merchandiser ↓ Panel (cutting fabric parts) ↓ Expose (frame adjusted)
  109. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 109 URMI Group ↓ Fila and frame adjusted ↓ Water spray ↓ Panel send to buyer ↓ Buyer approval ↓ Sale sample ↓ Counter sample ↓ P P production ↓ Accessories booking ↓ Requisition by merchandiser for fabric ↓ Fabric received and store ↓ Count the fabric ↓ Inspection the fabric ↓ Fabric adjusted ↓ Bulk production start
  110. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 110 URMI Group ↓ Hydro extractor from dryer ↓ Inspection ↓ Finishing ↓ Delivery Types of print:  Rubber print  Pigment print(Water base print)  Foil print  Discharge print  Puff print  Glitter print  Afsan print  High density print  Plastisol print  Crack print  Gel print  Sticker/transfer print  Reflective Design: Artwork receive from development
  111. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 111 URMI Group ↓ Detail design perform & analyze by Adobe Photoshop & illustrate ↓ Prepare individual film for different color by work express software ↓ Send to expose room Screen Preparation: Mesh fabric tight with frame Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air. Placed design paper under the mesh. Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min. Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying. Sequence of printing: Count garment parts
  112. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 112 URMI Group Screen preparation Printing paste preparation Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion Printing the garment part by using screen Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 c Inspection is done in qualify control department Process for Foil Printing: Add adhesive on the require design by screen Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C
  113. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 113 URMI Group Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec Garments Printing Chemicals: 1. White paste-i) Asublanc E-BT ii) Asublanc E-V 375 iii) Asulak E 961 2. Matt clear paste-i) Asulak E-BT ii) Asulak 250 iii) Asulak E-pu iv) Asulak E-po 3. Paste for m/c print : i) Asublance P ii) Asulak E-ns iii) Asulance E-ns 4.pigment paste: i) Asuprint E-BT ii) Asuprint E-NS 5.Binder: I) Asucryl EAP 50 NEW 6. Thickener: i) clear EPG AC 7.Discharse paste 8.Pearl paste
  114. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 114 URMI Group 9.Alternate of Flock print: Asulak E-peach Coat 10.Cross linking / Fixing agent 11. Radium paste 12.Foil paste 13.Glitter Binder 14.Reflective paste 15.Pritig softener 16.Table gum/Adhesive Common print defects:  Measuring fault  Print missing  Wrong color  Hand feel not correct  Color migration problem  Not properly attach  Dirty marks  Uneven print  Air bubble  Air hole  Shade variation Major causes of print defects:  Screen & print body are not in same axis  Irregular wash of screen frame  Wrong color recipe  Insufficient drying of previous color
  115. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 115 URMI Group  Inaccurate composition of fixture  Improper heat & pressure  Dirty environment Auto screen shot:  Faster production  High color combination  Immediate drying between two consequetive print Not suitable for:  Large & complete body print  High density, flock & multiple colour, discharge print. Manual screen shot:  Generally all types of print are performed  More time consuming  Drying performed by hand or auto dryer HEAT PRESS M/C:  GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print  Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique  Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure Drying:  Hand drying  Auto drying
  116. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 116 URMI Group It is performed to dry previous color temporally Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color Curing: Curing is the ultimate drying of print. Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print. Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.
  117. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 117 URMI Group CHAPTER-08 GARMENTS SECTION
  118. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 118 URMI Group Sequence of garments manufacturing process: Side operation Operation Method Design / Sketch Manual/Computerized Basic Block Manual/Computerized Working pattern Manual/Computerized Sample section Sample making Manual Basic manufacturing difference Manual Approved sample Manual Costing Manual Production pattern Manual/Computerized Marker making Manual/Computerized Cutting section Fabric spreading Manual/Computerized Cutting Manual/Computerized Numbering Manual Sorting & bundling Manual Sewing Manual Initial inspection Manual Finishing / Pressing Manual Final inspection Manual Packing Manual Cartooning Manual Send to buyer Manual Flow sequence of merchandising section:
  119. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 119 URMI Group Received PDF sheet Consumption Costing Negotiation with buyer Order received Purchase order sheet received L.C opening Purchase fabric & accessories Time and action setting Approval for bulk production Related work to production planning Start bulk production Inspection Handover to buyer nominated agents Work done by Merchandiser:  Sourcing  Pricing (CM,C&F,CIF,FOB)  Order follow up and execution  Arranging final inspection  Ensuring on time shipment. Order follow-up and execution: They do it during running the production. As a result if any fault occurring it rectified in the primary stage. Arranging final inspection: After completion the garment making merchandiser arrange final inspection date with quality department. Inspection is also depending on the wishes of buyer.
  120. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 120 URMI Group Ensuring on time shipment: Once the inspection is done and the goods found ok for shipment, then the goods handed over to the clearing and forwarding agent for on time shipment. Types of order:  FOB (Free on Board) Order.  FOA (Free on Air) Order.  C & F (Cost & Freight) Order.  CIF (Cost Insurance Freight) Order.  CIFC (Cost, Freight, Insurance and Commission) Order.  CMT (Cost of Making and Trimmings) Order.  CM (Cost of Making) Order.  TT (Telephone Transfer) Order.  Subcontract Order.  Exchange Order.  CMC (Cutting, Making and Cartoon) Order Cost Analysis: Costing: Costing of garment is a very necessary and important task. In this factory costing is carried out by the merchandising department. Firstly, merchandiser contacts with the buyer and collects order. Then he is provided a sample from sample section according to the buyer‟s specification. The sample also supplies the fabric consumption. Cost of the fabric is determined according to this consumption. Then he makes costing the other materials, accessories, trimmings etc. He adds then all the production cost, Transport cost, Commission (buying house, C&F agent) and profit. Costing of Garments: Fabric Cost + Accessories Cost
  121. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 121 URMI Group + Production Cost + Transport Cost + Commission + Profit Accessories:  Sewing thread and sew able item a. Thread b. Button c. Main label d. Size label e. Care label f. Velcro (Hook and loop fastener) g. lace  Finishing item: a. Price ticket b. Hang tag c. Poly bag d. Back board e. Neck board f. Collar inside g. Butter fly (Single, Double) h. Tag pin i. Tissue paper j. Draw string and stopper
  122. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 122 URMI Group Flow sequence of sample section is given below: Receive developed sheet from buyer Develop the sample Send the sample to buyer for approval Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary) Send pre-production sample to buyer Start bulk production Pattern making: After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they make sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern by own when buyer don not give any pattern. Marker making: Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric. The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize wastages. Objects of Marker making:  To reduce cost;  To improve the quality of the garments;  To reduce the cutting time;  To facilitate large scale production CUTTING SECTION
  123. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 123 URMI Group Sequence of spreading and cutting:   Automatic Cutting Machine STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE Cutting Section Quality Control: The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section. Quality Inspection for Marker:  Every parts Measurement check,  Calculate the total no. of parts of each Garments,  Marker length & width determined. Fabrics Roll spreading Inspection:  Roll number,  GSM,  Shade number,  No. of lays,  Ends of Bits Spreading Quality Control (Defects):  Table marking,  Ends, Inspection Marker making with the aid of CAD Spreading (Manual or Spreading m/c) Cutting(Manual or Computerized Received Pattern from Sample section Sorting and Numbering Inspection Pieces sent to Sewing Received Finished Fabric
  124. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 124 URMI Group  Splices or Joints,  Leaning,  Tension,  Counts,  Remnants,  Fabrics flaws,  Marker placing, During Cutting Quality Control:  Miss cut,  Matching plies,  Ragged Cutting,  Notches,  Pattern Check After Cutting  100% part Checking.  Numbering & Bundle Quality Control.  Reject Panel Replacement. SEWING SECTION Sewing: The process of joining fabric or seam is called Sewing. Elements of Sewing:  Sewing Thread,  Needle &  Sewing Machine Flow-Sequence of Sewing Section: Cutting fabric load in sewing section Line plan according to style or design Marking Matching according to bundle no. Sewing according to Garments design or style Quality inspection during sewing Quality inspection after sewing
  125. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 125 URMI Group Excess Thread cutting Remove dirt & dust from Gmts surface Quality Audit Send to next process. Sequence of garment production: Sewing sequence of Jacket: Contrast joint with the pocket by pressing. Pocket rolling Number matching with body & Pocket Pocket joint ZigZag top sin over Pocket Numbering & gathering back & front pants Solder joint Top sin on the solder joint line Collar make Chain stitching on collar marking line Collar Joint Collar over locked in joining line Numbering sleeve and body part Sleeve joins with body Zigzag top sin on Arm hole
  126. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 126 URMI Group Zipper piping Side sewing /body sewing by over lock ZigZagtopsin (side sewing line) Bottom hem tuck sewing Tuck bottom hem with body parts Arm hole tuck Botton hem top sin Zigzag Cuff making Cuff joint Cuff top sin ZigZag Zipper joint with body part Collar tape part joint with zipper side Collar taping part join with body part Zipper top sin Collar top sin Label joint with body part Quality Table (Arm hole point, sleeve hem, Bottom hem, Top sin, side seam, Thread cutting. Spot etc are inspected) SEWING SEQUENCE OF T-SHIRT: Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side) Solder stitching (By over lock m/c) Neck rib truck (By plain m/c) Neck rib sewing by plain m/c Neck rib joins with body pant
  127. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 127 URMI Group Neck top sin Solder to solder back tip Size label sewing Solder to solder back top sin Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts. Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point) Sleeve joint with the body part Side sewing and care label joint Bottom hem tuck (at the end side) Bottom hem sewing Arm bottom hem joint Inspection Sewing Defects:  Needle damage,  Skip stitches,  Thread Breakages,  Broken Stitches  Seam Grin  Seam Puckering  Pleated Seam  Wrong stitch density  Uneven stitch density  Staggered stitch  Improperly formed stitches Work-study department: This department evaluates, each apparel sewing line for planned output and actual output. If the actual output is less than the planned output than on the shop floor executive of this department do the case study and try to find out the reason and solution so that desire output must come out fromsewing line. Following are the main tools of these departments;
  128. INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP REPORT SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY 128 URMI Group 1. Line balancing: - Sewing line must be evaluated after learning curve for time and work balancing of each operator. If any unbalances observed because of the different level of efficiency of different operator than after evaluation a new plan must be made for smooth flow of work. 2. Method improvement: – For every sewing operation, plenty of method may be use. Therefore for any bottleneck operation a new better method must be find out for assisting or helping operator. 3. Trained and motivated employee: – For higher productivity this is an important tool and company should start policies and schemes for trained and motivated employee. For example „target with quality achieve incentive‟ etc. Line balancing: Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machine according to style and design of garment. It depends of that what type of garment we have to produce. The Objectives of Line Balancing: Line balancing is a main part of a mass production. These kinds of systems, regardless of being different in details, are workstations in a sequence. Row material is included in the line at the beginning or in the middle. Parts included in the system transfers from one workstation through the other and at the end leaves the system as a completed product. Transfer lines uses manpower very little when compared to assembly lines. The certain properties of Transfer lines are transfer and process of a product automatically through a line. Objectives that should be gained balancing an assembly line are as follows;  Regular material flow;  Maximum usage of man power and machine capacity;  Minimum process times;  Minimizing slack times;  Minimizing workstations;  Maximum outputs at the desired timed;  Agreed quality maintenance of the garments;  Reduce production costs. Importance of Line Balancing: The importance of line balancing could be summarized as follows –  Good line balancing increases the rate of production;  This is the pre-condition for smooth production;
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