Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

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ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.
Tetlabo, Rupgonj, Narayangonj

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Abstract
The aim of industrial practice is to make us familiar with any kind of industry, the whole
process going on the industry, its environment and also with the management system of
the industry. As a student ofTextile Engineering Department, the target of should be
to know the production process, management system, marketing, production planning,
quality assurance, compliance, mechanical-electrical department etc. It is because of the
fact that to run any industry not only production department is obvious but also the
capability of managing the whole system is an obvious matter. It is also a responsibility
of an engineer is to develop the ongoing process into a better system to cope with the
present competition. Thus a diversified challenge emerges in front of the manufacturer
and other organizations. With a view to overcome this consequence a new generation of
engineering graduates with leadership skills and management capabilities altogether
are in demand.
We the students of Textile Engineering Department were sent to different industries
and assigned to different tasks. We were assigned toACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. This
report is a presentation of our experience in the Woven dyeing production.

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Acknowledgement
All praises to Almighty Allah alone, the Most merciful and the most compassionate and
His Holy prophet “ Muhammad “ (Peace be Upon Him) the most perfect and exalted one
among and of ever born on the earth, who is forever touch of guidance and knowledge
for the humanity.
I would like to thank Prof. SAYED FAKRUL HASAN MURAD, Dean & Head of the
department of Textile Engineering, SOUTHEAST University whose directions have
taken me to my destination. I am also grateful to Dr. A.B.M. FAYSAL, professor,
department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University for his scholastic guidance,
constructive criticism, painstaking help constant inspiration and advice from the very
beginning till the completion of this work.
I also want to express my gratitude and appreciation to Md. Anwar Hossain, Assistant
professor, Wet Processing Technology, SOUTHEAST University, for his encouragement,
valuable suggestion, and guidance and decision which able to help to do this Industrial
attachment successfully.
This internship report is not the result of individual effort. It is a result of wonderful
team-work.
We are really thankful on Md. Abdullahel , Lab Manager and Mohammad Saiful Azam,
Assistant manager(production),Mr. Md. Johrul Kabir, General Manager of Admin &
HR, of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. who gave us the approval for making of that regard.
We are also really thankful on Mr. Tariq Raja, manager of pre production processes Mr.
Niyaz, manager of weaving, Mr. Ramjan, general Manager of weaving at ACS Textiles
Bangladesh Ltd. to help us for getting information about our internship.
We are thankful to all those who supported us and provide us great help for completion
of this task. We have tried our level best to prepare this event with high level of
accuracy but no one claim to perfect other than Almighty Allah.

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Table of contents
Chapter Topics Page No.
Introduction to ACS
Textiles(Bangladesh) Ltd
Summery 06
Company profile 13
Buyers 18
Organism of manpower 23
Layout of Woven Dyeing 24
Production planning &
sequence operation
Sequence of operation 26
Introduction & Basic procedure of
planning & control
27
Preparation Unit
Singeing &Desizing 30
Scouring & Bleaching 37
Mercerizing 44
Dyeing section
Reactive Dyeing 49
Disperse Dyeing 52
Pigment Dyeing 62
Finishing Section 71
Quality control 90
Maintenance 102
Store & inventory control 115
Utilities 120
Conclusion 125

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Chapter-
One
INTRODUCTION TO ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

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Executive summary
This report is the result of two months internship. During the internship it was required
to study the organization, department of the organization and critically relate the
theoretical aspects of the Textile to the practical situation.
ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. operates throughout the world with over 6000employees
as part of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. team. ACS collection has a wide selection of
quality 100% cotton, CVC, Cot ton-polyester, competent professional staff, a team
of talented merchandisers, excellent supplies & support services, and state-of-the-art
technology is the driving force behind ACS’s phenomenal growth in the past years. ACS
has expanded its operations to include the Internet, and has taken advantage of the
variety of international trade facilitated by the Web. Now ACS is state-of-the-art
client/server technology for its market information processes to coordinate its network
of global buyers and agents around the world. Environmental Organizational and the
individual challenges which are to face by the department of “ACS Textiles Bangladesh
Ltd.”. The motive of joining the ACS is to have an exposure of textile sector and
potential to avail a sound and promising career. There are no formal union in ACS
Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

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Methodology of internship
Every research program should follow some basic form of procedures. However mainly
this report is written on the basis of experience gathered during the period of
Internship. We carefully observed the various activities of different department,
especially fabric section of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. A qualitative research is used
to conduct this study.
In order to make the report more meaningful and presentable two sources of data and
information have been used widely. Both primary and secondary data have been used to
prepare the report

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Initial Conversation
Industrial attachment is the first step to professional life of student, especially of
technical Side. It’s an indispensable part of study a practically running processing
technology of an industrial unit for a student .In our university , processing machines
are not in continuous running condition, so it would only provide demonstration of
mechanical features & processing technology of the material in accomplishment of the
theory there of but not of the situational variables to achieve practical knowledge. So
two months industrial attachment program in a dyeing mill was arranged for us.
Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial
attachment program minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge
and make me accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete
two month long industrial training in ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd., which is a 100%
export, oriented Weaving Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric and Yarn
dyeing-finishing units in addition to facilitate weaving & woven fabric manufacturing.
The rationale behind the existing structure and future expansion of ACS Textiles
Bangladesh Ltd. is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing
process.
Despite Bangladesh’s lack of indigenous cotton production capacity.ACS Textiles
Bangladesh Ltd. has leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage and export
competitiveness to the Maximum.
Objectives of Internship

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Objective:
The objective of the report is to learn about the overall activities of different
departments in
ACS Textiles Ltd. A primary textile industry Academic knowledge is not perfect without
practical knowledge.
Specific Objectives:
This intern paper has been prepared for fulfilling the following specific objectives:
 To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding fabric manufacturing as well
as others.
 To define and evaluate the performance of fabric manufacturing Department as
well as others.
 To observe the effectiveness of fabric manufacturing as well as others.
 To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization.
 To interchange opinions of the officials regarding their organization.
 To know the economic condition of Bangladesh through ACS Textiles Ltd. of
Bangladesh.
 To identify the difference between theory (what we have learned from the text)
and practice (what is really happened).
 To compare the improvement of the present condition of the ACS Textiles Ltd.
with the previous years.
 To mention the problems that the ACS Textiles Ltd. face in the process of
production and delivery of garments & give some suggestions.
 To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the ACS
Textiles Ltd.

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ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. symbolizes trust and quality in Home Textile
Products manufacturing across Bangladesh. A 100% British investment, ACS takes
pride in its state-of-the-art composite manufacturing facility with weaving, dying,
printing, finishing and packing services which are one of the largest of its kind in
Bangladesh.
ACS Textiles is a quality conscious company. Based on sound policies to ensure the
finest quality of the products, the manufacturing processes are compliant with ISO
9001: 2008 standards producing top quality bedding and linen sheets ranging from 200
- 400 thread count percale sheets to satin sheets and duvets, Egyptian and organic
cotton and yarn dyed fabric. A recent addition to our products is a wide range of towels
for all kinds of use.
ACS Textiles BD Ltd. has come a long way since its establishment in 2004 and, over the
years has built a global reputation of excellence matched by only a few others in the
textile industry.
The manufacturing facility employs over 6000 people and averages about 30,000 pieces
of superior quality textile products per day. These high quality ACS Textile products
have found their market in European countries such as Italy and France and in
Scandinavian Europe namely Sweden, Holland, Denmark and Norway. 2008 saw ACS
expanding its export clientele to include Australia and North America as well.
Our excellence is recognized not only by our customers but also by official authorities
for quality standards – Okeo-Tex standard 100 certification further endorses our
unswerving commitment to quality.
Name Of The Industry:ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

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Type of the industry: A foreign invested 100% export oriented home
textiles manufacturer.
Company’s Logo:
Company’s Motto:
“Make continuous effort to offer our customers quality products and effective services
and realize our principle of customer first, service is ultimate.”
Mission Statement:
Our Mission is to be the market leader of home linen (bed linen and towels), by the year
2015. To provide a healthy, safe and competitive work environment for our employees
and reward them justly for their efforts
ACS as we see:
Established in 2004 gc and located 16 kilometers from the centre of Dhaka city and on
the main road to Dhaka – Shylethighway.ACS represents the aspiration of about
153,546,896 inhabitants in Bangladesh country. The factory is a magnificent landmark
in the middle of beautiful valley surrounded by lake, and is only 20kms. That is one of
half hour drive away from Dhaka airport.
Corporate structure:
ACS Textile Bangladesh Ltd. Is an industry with an investment of 50 million US dollars
and registered with British high commission as 100% British Investment Company. All
members of the board of directors are British citizen having the separate business in the
name of pin mill textile, a company of last 50 years with turnover of 10 million GBP.
Corporate culture:

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Continuous improvement is an integral part of our corporate culture. Nurturing and
effectively integrating “ People, Management and Development” is the key focus where
corporate culture gives empowerment of employees in taking initiative, involving in
decision making, interacting for collective bargaining, self- enhancement opportunities
and bringing in changes essential to meet business strategy. The management is
strongly committed to social compliance issues. Our policies strictly prohibit child labor,
forced labor, and monetary penalties as a form of disciplinary action. We believe in
social accountability and thus ACS is involved in development projects in Bangladesh.
Quality Control:
ACS maintains stringent quality control practices and conducts computerized testing
processes to determine strength of yarn, density of cloth and fastness of colors. Quality
control processes are set up at every stage of production with the strictest of standards
to adhere to; ensuring all production is of the highest quality.
The quality control personnel conduct pre-inspection of goods at different stages to
maintain international standards and to screen out defective products at the onset.
The policy that ACS Textiles (BD) Ltd. follows is:
o Provide consistent quality products and services with on time delivery to achieve
and enhance customer satisfaction.
o Provide a safe & conducive working environment to employees and encourage
their involvement in the never ending effort to improve quality of our products
and services.
o Minimize environmental impact through prevention of pollution, solid & liquid
waste management and conversation of natural resources.
o Promoting awareness and importance of Quality & Environment among our
employees, the community and our suppliers.
o Ensure continual improvement and compliance with customer & relevant
environmental legislation regulations.

Company Profile:
Name : ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.
Address : Tetlabo, Rupgonj, Narayanganj,
Bangladesh
Tel:
+880-2-7452039, +880-2-7452040,
+880-2-7450724, +880-2-7450725
Fax:
880-2-7450786
E-mail : info@acstextiles.com
Web : www.acstextiles.com
Legal status of company : Limited company
Year of establishment : 2004, 13th April
Sponsor
Banks : Southeast Bank
Dilkusha commercial area
Dhaka-1000
Dutch Bangla Bank
Mothijhil commercial area
Dhaka-1000
Bank Al-Falah Ltd.
Rajuk Avenue
Mothijhil commercial area
Dhaka-1000
Insurance
:American Life Insurance Company
ALICO Building, 18-20 motijhil C/A
P.O. Box 9, Dhaka-1000,Bangladesh
Tel: +880-2-9561791, +880-2-7160025
Fax: +880-2-9558682
E-mail: american.life@alicobd.com
Total land area
:5,50,000 square fetes
Production capacity
:1,05,000 meters per day

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Total employees
:Approx. 6000
Total consumer
:Above 60
Annual capacity
:31,00000 meters
Standard certification program
:BSCI global standard (for client: V&D
&lidi)
BRC global standard- consumer product
Certificate no. GB08/75996
Control union certification (GOTS & OE)
Certificate no.C810124GOTS-01.2008
Certificate no.C8 10124OE-01.2008
OEKO-TEX standard 100
Test no.07KA.56878
ISO certification (in the pipeline)
SA-8000 certification (in the pipeline)

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Membership
:Bangladesh Textile Mills
Association(BTMA)
Membership no. 0002-0179-0401
Export Promotion Bureau (EPB)
Enrolment no. TM12
Narayanganj Chamber Of Commerce &
Industry
Registration no. 465 of book 5
Foreign Investors chamber of commerce &
Industry
Registration no. 122 of book 2
Valid Licenses and Certificates
: Factory license
Fire license
Boiler license
Trade license
Export license
Import license
Environmental clearance license
Income tax certificates
Group insurance certificate
Acid using license
Factory achievement
:
National Export Trophy 2008-2009

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Product Mix:
Fabrics
a. In Tappet loom.
i. Plain.
ii. Twill.
iii. Sateen.
iv. Some combination weaves
which are possible in tappet.
v. Oxford. (Warp rib and weft
rib).
vi. Queen’s Oxford.
vii. Matt.
viii. Double cloth
b. In Dobby loom:
i. Various types of weave.
ii. Diamond.
iii. Diaper.
iv. Herring bone.
v. Honey comb.
vi. The designs which are
possible in 16 healed frames.
Different Department:
A. Administration.
B. Human Resource and Development Dept.

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C. Weaving Preparatory& Design
D. Lab
E. Weaving.
F. R & D(Research & Development)
G. Woven finishing.
H. Dyeing
I. Printing
J. Terry Towel
K. Stitching
L. Packaging
M. Store.
N. Planning Dept.
O. Utility Dept.
P. Procurement & Purchasing
Q. Marketing
R. QA Dept.
S. Inspection Dept.
T. Mechanical Dept.
U. Electrical Dept.

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Buyers
Buyers Name Logo
M & S
SAINSBURY’S
TESCO
DUNELM
HOUSE OF FRASER
JOHN LEWIS
LA REDOUTE
3 SUISSES

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CASINO
DESCAMPS
OLIVIER
M
FRANCOISE
BLANCHEPORTE
PRINCESS
HOIE

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KID
EE CORTE INGEES
V & D
VESPO
HEMA
WALLACE COTTON
HEMTEX
LEXINGTON

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NITORI
SODAHL
LIDL
ADAIRS
BED BATHN’ TABLE
WALMART
GIANT TIGER

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Organogram of manpower
Shift system
Per shift is 8hrs
1st shift : 6:00 A.M – 2:00 P.M (shift A)
2nd shift : 2:00 P.M – 10:00P.M(shift B)
3rd shift : 10.00 P.M – 6:00 A.M (shift C)
General shift : 9:00 A.M – 6:00 P.M

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LAY OUT OF WOVEN DYEING
Final Inspection Yarn Dyeing
Singeing M/C
Bleaching M/C
Mercerizing M/C
Chemical pad Steam
Pad dry
Pad dry Thermosol
Stenter M/C
Stenter M/C
CalenderM/C
Shrinkage M/C
Jigger M/C
Quality
Control
Color
Kitchen
Finish
Chemical
Preparation
Chemical
Caustic
Recovery
Wet Dye Store
Chem.
Store
Dry Chem.
Store
Training
Peaching

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Chapter-
Two
PRODUCTION PLANNING & SEQUENCE
OPERATION

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Sequence of operation:
Weaving
Grey fabric inspection
Singeing
Mercerizing
Scouring/Bleaching
Dyeing
Stentering
Sanforizing
Emerizing
Calendaring
Final Inspection
Packing
Delivery to garments industry

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Introduction and Basic Procedure of Planning and
Control:
A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within
the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable, “Planning”
gives a scheduled task and ‘Control’ completes it successfully. But production planning
and control is not an easy task. So BEXIMCO has a self-sufficient and high-performance
department called “Production Planning & Control”. Its Basic working procedure is as
follows-
1. Taking orders from marketing division.
2. Analyzing the orders.
3. Planning for weaving the fabric.
4. Planning for dyeing the fabric.
5. Planning for finishing the fabric.
6. Cost analysis & load time.
It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order.
Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the white
goods. Then some steps are omitted from the planning procedure.
1. Taking orders from marketing division:
BEXIMCOmarking division supplies Fabric Orders to the BTL Planning and control
division by a special format.
2. Analyzing the orders:
This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of
orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which
M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans for
required quantity of fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for delivery),
RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance.
3. Planning for weaving:
This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weaving the
fabric for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives

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delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning
mills by a specific schedule.
4. Planning for dyeing the fabric:
Production planning for dyeing is called ‘Batch Plan’. According to the batch no.
and color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand
this section gives some ‘T’. Cards. ‘T’ card are serialized according to the priority of
delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly
the dark shades, so that faulty shades can be converted to dark color later.
5. Planning for finishing the fabric:
Finishingschedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the
finishing section with the process rout card. Finished data is written to the rout card
and is informed to the planning section.
However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finishing all the
works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials to
the garment factory in the lead time. Thus it plays a very important role in the success of
the company.

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Chapter-
Three
PREPARATION UNIT

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Singeing and Desizing
Singeing:
Singeing is a process for removing hairy/projectile fiber from the fabric surface.
Desizing:
Desizing is a process for removing sizing material from the fabric by chemical
treatment.
Cold Bleach:
It is a process to remove dirt, dust, husk, leaf from the fabric and transfer it into
permanent white by chemical treatment in cold condition.
Process Requirement:
Equipment Used:
OSTHOFF singing and Desizing machine.
Key Accessories:
Fork lifter, wooden plate, sewing machine, A-frame or batchers etc. are the key
accessories for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed fabric (PC-015)
In addition to the aforesaid tools mixing tank, reserve tank, pH meter polythine
paper, rotation station, hand gloves, eye protecting glass, clip/finger clip etc are some
additional tools/ accessories used for the following fabric process-
 For all cotton color fabric.
 For all cotton color peace finish fabric.
 Singing and Desizing for yarn dyed fabric and PC / CVC fabric.
 Singing and cold bleach for PC / CVC fabric.
 Only Desizing for PC / CVC / yarn dyed peach finish fabric.
 Singing and cold bleach for Bull-Twill (Heavy fabric).
Material and Chemical used:

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Steam, compressed air, water, natural gas, Desizing agent, wetting agent, sequestering
agent and dearating.
Singeing, Desizing and Cold Bleach recipe:
Fabric Name Chemical/material used Composition
1. All cotton
color fabric
2. All cotton
color peach
finish fabric
(for only
desizing)
3. Yarn dyed and
PC / CVC
fabric
Desizing agent
Dearating agent
Wetting agent
Sequestering Agent
Follow the bulk recipe by
fabric type
Natural gas for burner,
steam, compressed air,
water
N/A
4. White cotton
fabric and
special yarn
dyed fabric
(for only
singing).
compressed air, water
N/A
5. PC / CVC
fabric (for
singeing and
cold bleach)
H2O2,NaOH,Stabilizer
Wetting agent / Detergent
Sequestering Agent
Dearating agent
fabric type
compressed air, water
N/A
6. PC / CVC yarn
dyed peach
finish fabric
(only for
desizing)
Desizing agent
Dearating agent
Wetting agent
Sequestering Agent
fabric type
steam, compressed air,
water
N/A
7. Bull-Twill i.e.
heavy fabric
(for singeing,
desizing, cold
bleach)
H2O2,NaOH,Stabilizer
Wetting agent
Sequestering Agent
Dearating agent
Desizing agent
fabric type

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Fig: Singeing &desizingmachine.
 Production Procedure:
 Machine set-up for production:
Machine set-up for singing and desizing for all cotton color fabric:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Machine set value
M/C-2
Temperature (70-80)°C (70-85)°C (70-85)°C
pH or Litmus paper 6.5-7 6.5 6.5
Burner position 1, 2, 3 3rd -
Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L (1000-1200)L
Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000L 1000L
Flame intensity (1-20) m.bar 11-13 m.bar 11-15 m.bar
Pressure (1.3-1.5) bar (1.2-2) bar (2-2.5) bar
Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face
Burner 1 or 2 2 2
A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely

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Machine set-up for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC-015)
fabric:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Machine set value
M/C-2
Burner position 1, 2, 3 3rd -
Flame intensity (1-20) m.bar (14-18) m.bar -
Pressure (1.5-2) bar (1.8-2) bar (1.5-2) bar
Burner 1 or 2 2 2
Machine set-up for desizing for all cotton color peach fabric:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Machine set value
M/C-2
Temperature (65-80)°C (65-80)°C (65-80)°C
pH or Litmus paper (6-7.5) 6.5 6.5
Reserve chemical (1000-2000) L 1000 L 1000 L
Pressure (1.5-2) bar (1.8-2) bar (1.5-2) bar
Machine set-up for singing desizing for yarn dyed fabric and PC / CVC fabric:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Machine set value
M/C-2
Temperature (65-85)°C (65-85)°C (65-85)°C
pH or Litmus paper 6-7.5 6.5 6.5
Burner position 1, 2, 3 2nd=PC
3rd=yarn dyed
-
Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000 L 1000 L
Flame intensity (1-20) m.bar (14-16) m.bar (11-15) m.bar
Pressure (1.5-2) bar (1.8-2) bar 2 bar
Burner 1 or 2 2 2
Machine set-up for singing and cold bleach for PC / CVC fabric:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Machine set value
M/C-2
Burner position 1, 2, 3 2nd position -

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Flame intensity (13-16) m.bar (13-16) m.bar (11-15) m.bar
Pressure (1.3-1.5) bar (1.8-2) bar 2 bar
Burner 1 or 2 2 2
Machine set-up for desizing for PC / CVC yarn dyed peace finish fabric:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Machine set value
M/C-2
Temperature (65-85)°C (65-85)°C (65-85)°C
pH or Litmus paper 6-7.5 6.5 6.5
Speed, Flame
intensity, Burner
position, Padder
pressure
Reference are given in parameter set table
Machine set-up for singing and cold bleach for Bull-twill:
Machine set-up
parameter
Actual parameter
range
Machine set value
M/C-1
Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L
Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000 L
Fabric position Face or Bake Face
A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely
Speed, Flame
intensity, Burner
position, Padder
pressure
Reference are given in parameter set
table
Parameter set table: Some important parameter for various fabric-
Quality Paramete
r range
P.C
&
C.V.
C
Bull-
Twil
l
T.C
Pocketing/Voi
l
Ligh
t
Mediu
m
Heav
y
Yarn
Dye
d
Speed 60-120 100 70 70 70- 70 70 90-

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(m/min
)
80 110
Flame
Intensit
y
(m.bar)
1-20 13 16 16 16 15 15 13
Burner
Position
1,2,3
position
2 3 3 3 3 3 2
Padder
Pressur
e (bar)
1.3-2.5 2-
1.9
2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9
Check list before production:
Operator must check the following before starting production of the fabric named
bellow:
o All cotton colored fabric = Singing &Desizing.
o All cotton colored peach finish fabric = Desizing.
o Yarn dyed & P.C/C.V.C fabric = Singing &Desizing.
o P.C/C.V.C fabric = Singing & Cold bleach.
o P.C/C.V.C / yarn dyed peach finish fabric = Desizing.
o Bull-Twill / Heavy fabric = Singing & Cold bleach.
o White cotton fabric & Special yarn dyed (PC-015) fabric = Singing
(Without Chemical)
Item to be checked:
o Machine parameters are set.
o Manpower is available.
o Chemicals are available.
o All accessories are available.
o Fabric Stitch with tape fabric is done.
o Sewing thread (cone) is available.

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Operation Procedure:
The sewing man stitches the fabric with tape fabric. He must be careful in stitching the
face side of fabric will the face side of the same fabric.
Operator turns the machine (OSTHOFF SENGE) on and set the machine at desired
speed given bellow :
Type of fabric Machine speed (m/min)
Cotton colored 60-80
Cotton white 70-80
Yarn dyed 100-120
P.C/C.V.C 100
Bull-Twill 60
Processing continues until a frame or a batcher is complete. After completion of the
batcher the operator stop the machine and warps the batcher with polythene paper and
set it into the rotation station for at least 6-8 hours. In case of singing and cold bleach of
P.C / C.V.C fabric the polythene paper warped batcher is set into the rotation station for
24 hours. But in case of only singing of white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC-
015) fabric the batcher need not to set into the rotation station. In the rotation station
the batcher rotates and the chemicals distributed equally in the fabric.
The quality of the product depends on various parameters like the machine speed,
temperature, pressure, flame intensity, chemical level burner position and pH value etc.
The operator must check the above parameter carefully during processing to avoid any
defect.
Product quality check:
During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH
meter or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defect like projectile
hairy fiber by paralelly looking at fabric, fabric position, crease on the fabric, fabric
sewing and any other abnormalitic that can be detect by naked eye.
Q.C sample test:
Quality control department follow the pickup percent test method to verify the
quality during the process. This is done once in a month or after every maintenance. But
in case of only singing of white cotton fabric and yarn dyed fabric (PC-015) fabric it is
not need.

P a g e | 37
Scouring and Bleaching
Scouring:
Removing wax and oil by chemical treatment.
Bleaching:
Removing of natural nitrogenous coloring compound, dirt, dust, broken parts of seed or
leaf and whitening of fabric by chemical treatment.
Washing:
Removing size chemical and spot of fabric and increasing absorbency.
Equipment Used:
GOOLER scouring and bleaching machine.
Key Accessories:
Mixing tank, reverse tank, conical flax, pipette, burette, acid, Potassium permanganate ,
Phenolphthalein, eye protecting and hand gloves, sewing machine, boume meter, handle
for carrying batch/A frame fork lift.
Material / chemical used:
Water , steam, compressed air, NaOH, H2O2, stabilizer, wetting agent, detergent,
sequestering agent, and deatering agent.
A chemical solution is prepared for fabric processing as per recipe provided below:
Amount of chemicals:
Fabric (GSM)
weight
(Gm/m2)
Chemicals Chemical
composition
(ml/kg of fabric)
Without conveyer
Chemical
composition
(ml/kg of fabric)
With conveyer

P a g e | 38
Light fabric
(100-110)
H2O2 (50%)
NaOH (40˚BE)
Stabilizer
Detergent/wetting
Sequestering agent
Deatering agent
40-50
30-40
6-8
4-5
1-2
1-3
35-45
25-35
5-6
4-8
1-2
1-2
Medium fabric
(130-260)
H2O2 (50%)
NaOH (40˚BE)
Stabilizer
Detergent/wetting
Sequestering agent
Deatering agent
40-45
40-45
6-7
4-8
1-2
1
40-45
30-35
8-10
7-8
1-2
1.5
Heavy fabric H2O2 (50%)
NaOH (40˚BE)
Stabilizer
Detergent/wetting
Sequestering agent
Deatering agent
40-45
40-45
6-7
4-6
1-2
1
40-45
30-35
8-10
8-10
1-2
1.5
Scouring recipe for PC/ CVC:
Chemical Chemical composition(ml/kg of fabric)
Light fabric
NaoH (40BE)
Detergent / wetting agent
60-80
2-3

P a g e | 39
Heavy fabric
NaoH (40BE)
Detergent / wetting agent
80-90
3
After cold bleach recipe for all white fabric:
Chemical Chemical composition
(ml/kg of fabric) with conveyor
Light fabric
H2O2 (50%)
NaOH (40˚BE)
Stabilizer
Detergent/wetting
Sequestering agent
Deatering agent
15-25
15-20
5-6
3-4
1-2
0.5
Medium / heavy fabric
H2O2 (50%)
NaOH (40˚BE)
Stabilizer
Detergent/wetting
Sequestering agent
Deatering agent
20-25
15-20
6-7
3-4
1-2
1.5
Washing recipe:
Washing is done with hot water only detergent (2/3) gm/kg of fabric. May be used for
medium and heavy color fabric. Machine speed is mentioned in the speed table.
Titration:
Titration is the process for identifying the amount of chemical present in the solution.
The test chemical reagent 0.1 N HCL , 25% H2SO4, 0.1 N K2MNO4, are prepared by the
QC group.

P a g e | 40
Titration procedure for NaOH:
Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank into a chemical flask.
Then add 25 ml of water with the solution and stir for few seconds. Next add 1-2 drops
of reagent onto the sample solution, this will turn the solution into light pink color.
Then the chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1N HCL acid
next HCL added to the sample solution and drop at a time until the light pink color
disappears. The no of 0.1 N HCL drops required is the reading that is used to calculate
the amount of NaOH present in the mixing tank.
Titration procedure for H2O2
Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank to a chemical flask.
Then add 10 ml of 25% H2SO4 and 15 ml of water with the solution and stir it for few
seconds. Then the chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1 N
K2MNO4 next 0.1 N K2MNO4 is added to the sample solution one drop at a time until the
solution turn into light pink color. The no of 0.1 N K2MNO4 drops required in the
reading that is used to calculate the amount of H2O2 present in the mixing tank.
100% H2O2gm per 1 liter of solution is present in the mixing tank= 3.4 % reading.
Fig: Scouring & Bleaching Machine.

P a g e | 41
Fig: Flow diagram of Bleaching Machine.
Machine Set-up:
Describe bellow the machine set-up for scouring and bleaching process-
Machine speed set up
Fabric type With conveyer
m/min
Without
conveyer
m/min
Scour and bleach
Light/white
Light/color
Medium/white
Medium/color
Heavy/white
Heavy/color
70-80
60-70
60-70
60-65
50-55
45
N/A
60
N/A
45-50
N/A
30
Scour only
Light/white
Light/color
Medium/white
Medium/color
N/A
60-70
60-70
60-65
N/A
90-95
N/A
45-50

P a g e | 42
Heavy/white
Heavy/color
50-55
30-35
N/A
30-35
Bleach for white only
Light/white
Light/color
Medium/white
Medium/color
Heavy/white
Heavy/color
80-90
N/A
70-80
N/A
40-50
N/A
N/A
90-95
N/A
45-50
N/A
30-35
Washing for yarn dyed
Light and medium
N/A
90-100
Washing for solid dyed
Medium
heavy
N/A
N/A
70-90
50
Other parameters set up
Machine set up
parameters
Actual value / range Machine set value
Steaming time of conveyer
dwell time for all fabrics
18-25 min
Scour & bleach 22min
Re – bleach- 26 min
Scour- 20 min
Temperature for washing
Temp for steamer
90-95˚ C
102-106˚ C
90˚ C
104˚ C

P a g e | 43
Pressure for padder
Pressure for quizzer
Compensator pressure
Doctor blade position
Fabric position
Chemical level
Water level
Dosing pump
1.5-5 bar
2/3 bar
1.5/5 bar
1/2/3
Face/back
N/A
N/A
N/A
2-3 bar
2.25-2.5 bar
2-3 bar
2
Face
Up to level indicator
Above the roller
Based on the recipe PLC
is programmed.
Item to be selected:
 Machine parameter section are set
 Manpower is available.
 Chemicals are available.
 All accessories are available.
 Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done.
 Sewing thread are available.
The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine
speed pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these
parameters in every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through
the pump.
Production quality check:
or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the
fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be
detected by naked eye.
Quality control sample test:
QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the
process. The other test that the QC department does fpr the mercerizing process is size

P a g e | 44
test, width test, fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every
thousand meters.
Mercerizing
Mercerizing:
Mercerizing is a process for increasing dye absorbency, strength and lusture of the
fabric by chemical treatment.
Process requirement:
Equipment used:
The GOLLER Mercerizing range machine.
Key accessories:
The necessary tools or accessories used for the mercerizing process are given bellow
Sewing machine, sewing thread, cylinder, Baum meter, A-frame, handles for
carriage, mixing tank, reserve tank, hand gloves, eye protecting gloves, clip/finger clip
etc.
The following fabrics go through the mercerizing process-
 All cotton fabric.
 TC / CVC fabric.
 Bull-Twill fabric.
Materials / Chemicals used:
The materials and chemicals used for the GOLLER mercerizing range machine for all
cotton fabric TC or CVC fabric and Bull-Twill fabric are described bellow-
Chemicals / Material used Composition
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) (28±2)º Be (Baume´)
267 gm/l (see note)
Mercerizing Oil (Mercirol QW2F) 3-4 gm/l
Green acid / Nurta acid (32%) 3-4 % of total water
Wetting agent 1-1.5 gm/l
Compressed air As required
Steam, water As required
Note: Density and concentration of NaOH at (25-40 ºC)

P a g e | 45
Baume (°Be) gmNaOH 100% (per 1 L NaOH
solution)
20 166.7
24 213.7
28 267.4
30 296.8
38 441.0
40 484.1
Fig: Mercerizing Machine.
Production Procedure:
Machine Set-up:
Describe bellow the machine set-up for mercerizing process-
Machine set up
parameter
Actual parameter range Machine set value
Temperature of washing
chamber
(90-95)°C 90°C
Temperature of NaOH
chamber
(18-45) °C (40±5) °C
Fabric position Face or back Face
Reserve chemical caustic 3-8 6.5-7
Reserve acid ( for all
cotton
(6000-8000) L (4000-6000) L
TC or CVC fabric (200-300) kg 200 kg

P a g e | 46
Pressure Squeezer of
impregnation 1 & 2
(2-4) bar (2-3.5) bar for all cotton
TC/CVC
3 bar for Bull-Twill
Tension (% of fabric) 0-2 2-3 for all cotton & TC
fabric
Padder pressure of
washing
(1.5-5) bar (2-4) bar
Compensator Pressure (1.5-5) bar (2-4) bar
Item to be selected:
 Machine parameter section are set
 Manpower is available.
 Chemicals are available.
 All accessories are available.
 Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done.
 Sewing thread is available.
Operator turns the machine (GOLLER Mercerizing range machine) on and set the
machine at the desired speed given bellow. Processing continues until a frame or a
batcher is complete or there arise any problem e.g. electrical, mechanical or utility.
Type of fabric Machine Speed (m/min)
All cotton fabric 40-50
(108×58/20×20), (128×60/20×16) 50
(130×70/30×30), (133×72/40×40) 50-55
TC or CVC fabric 50-55
Bull-Twill fabric 35-40

P a g e | 47
Recovery
chamber
300kg
NaOH
700 l
water
Mixing
tank
(NaOH
solution +
Mercirol
QW)
Mixing tank
(cooling
chamber
temperature
bellow
20°C)
Fig: Chemical flow of mercerizing machine.
The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine
speed pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these
parameters in every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through
the pump.
or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the
fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be
detected by naked eye.
Quality control sample test:
QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the
process. The other test that the QC department does for the mercerizing process is size
test, width test, fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every
thousand meters.
IMP 1 IMP 2

P a g e | 48
Chapter-
Four
DYEING SECTION

P a g e | 49
Reactive Dyeing
(CPB Process)
Solid dyeing with reactive dyes (Cold Pad Batch or CPB
process):
Solid dyeing with reactive dye by CPB process is a batch process in which the
fixation of dyes is carried out at low temperature (i.e. 25-28 °C) in the pressure of highly
alkaline medium and by providing execs time (i.e. more than 8 hours).
In CPB process the most important future is dyeing liquor and alkali solution
which is prepared separately in separate tank than it is pumped by a dosing pump into
the padding through with a color alkali ratio of 4:1. Fabric is impregnate with the liquor
relatively at a high speed and squeeze by means of padding mangle to remove the
surplus liquor and to live the dyeing liquor onto the fabric surface. After padding the
fabric is winded on the A-frame in wet form and on completion of one batch. It is
wrapped with the water proof material in order to prevent evaporation and stored for
more than 12 hours. Finally it is washed in normal way.
For storage batching stationed may be used where it should rotate at a rate of 5 to 7
revelation per minute.
Impregnate with dye and alkali squeeze of surplus dyeing liquor
Store wet
Wash off
Equipment:
Monforts-Pad-Batch
Key accessories:

P a g e | 50
A-frames, Jack for A-frame, over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine, scissors,
mixer, bucket.
Material / Chemical used:
The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with reactive dye (CPB process) are
describe bellow-
Fabric, reactive dyes, reduction inheritor, urea, alkali and additional chemicals and
axillaries for e.g. water softening agent, wetting agent, reduction inheritor (if require)
etc.
Sample of guide recipe:
 Reactive dyes - a gm/l
 Reduction inhibitor - b gm/l
 Urea - c gm/l
 Alkali-1 - d gm/l
 Alkali-2 - e gm/l
Machine Set-up:
Describe bellow the machine setup for the solid dyed CPB process with reactive dyes-
Check List Set-up Range Set Value
Level of dyeing bath (300-800) mm ws As per requirement
Process selector
knob/switch
Pad batch/ continues Pad batch
Padder pressure (center) (20-50) daN/cm (30-35) daN/cm
Speed m/min (0-120) m/min ≤ 40 m/min
Parameter / Item Value / Checking
Machine setup According to GLM of fabric
Fabric availability According to the program schedule and
rout card having the test status ok
Preparation of dyeing liquor Checking the preparation and also the
shifting of the liquor to the delivery tank
Tap fabric Availability
Batcher for winding of dyed fabric Availability
Accessories / necessities / utilities Availability
Man power Availability

P a g e | 51
Machine Clean condition
Valves position Related valves are totally opened
Trial procedure:
After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to collect
and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in
preparation of dyeing liquor.
In trial normally (5-10) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade before
starting production. Trial result can be checked by drawing sample of (6ʺ×4ʺ)
approximately and by giving it after treatment as follows:
 Warping the fabric on a glass rod.
 Covering it by polythene paper to make it air tight.
 Witting for 16 min.
 Opening the polythene paper and hanging it on a beaker having a small quality of
water at a temperature of (53-60) °C in such a way that it should not touch the
surface of water.
 Placing the beaker in microwave woven for 4 min at a time of not more than
80°C.
 Washing or soaping the fabric in pilot plant.
 Ironing and condition of fabric.
This can be compared with the ALD by using data color system. Based on the result
production officer is etherized to make necessary change in recipe in order to obtain the
least deviation during bulk production. (i.e. ΔE ≥ 1.0).
Note:
In case of repeated orders and short quantities production officer has the
authority to start the bulk production based on the result of the previous run.
Preparation of dyeing liquor:
 Weigh out accurately the dyes and chemical as per recipe given by
production officer.
 Pour the dye into the stock color tank having some amount of water &
water softening agent (If applicable) slowly and gradually and allowed it to
stiffer for about 5-10 min. for pastel and light shade it is advisable to
dissolved separately in a bucket or beaker before adding in the tank.
 Extra care must be taken in dissolving that the dye having least g/l should
be dissolved first and then in ascending order.
 Add reduction inhibitor into the mixer which must be pre dissolved in hot
water before addition.

P a g e | 52
 Urea may be added directly into the stock tank or mixer along with the
dyes but it depends on the amount.
 Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately ¼th of
total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shade).
 Additional chemical and auxiliaries (e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent,
sequestering agent etc.) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per
instructed by responsible officer
Preparation of alkali:
o Weigh out accurately the alkali as per recipe given.
o Dissolved the alkali in a bucket or mixer under constant stirring until the
un dissolved particles disappears. If two type of alkali are used than it
should be dissolved separately.
o Transfer the alkali solution in baby tank and finally level the solution as
per require
Disperse Dyeing
(PDB Process)
Solid dyeing with disperse dyes (Pad Dry Bake or PDB
process):
Solid dyeing with disperse dye by PDB process is a process in which the fixation of
dyes is carried out by means of using relatively high temperature dry air in process of
alkali along with the dyeing liquor after padding and drying operation.
In PDB process the fabric (in open with form) is impregnated with the dyeing
liquor in process of alkali along with the dyes. The fabric is then squeezed by means of
padding mangles to remove the surplus liquor and to level the dyeing into the surface of
the fabric which after passing through airing zone is subjected for drying.
Initially it dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the sufficient
amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric. Complete drying is
carried out in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air. Final fixation is carried out at
relatively high temperature in curing thermex (i.e. 150°C-170°C).
Impregnate with dye and squeezing of surplus liquor
Partial dyeing of fabric in IR section

P a g e | 53
Complete drying of fabric in hot flue
Fixation of dye by means of relatively very high temperature with dry air
Equipment:
Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Range (P-Th 1) and (P-Th 2)
Key accessories:
mixer, bucket.
The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with disperse dye (PDB process)
are describe bellow-
Fabric, disperse dyes, antimigrating agent, dispersing agent, leveling agent, water
softening agent (if required), acid other axillaries e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent,
etc.
o Disperse dyes - a gm/l
o Dispersing agent - b gm/l
o Antimigrating agent - c gm/l
o Acid - d gm/l
Machine Set-up:
Describe bellow the machine setup for the solid dyed PDB process with reactive dyes-
Check List Set-up Range Set Value
Level of dyeing bath (0-500) % for P-Th 1
manual for P-Th 2
As per requirement
Process selector knob or
switch
Pad batch/ continues Continues
Speed variable knob VTG- (0-100) % velocity%, As per requirement

P a g e | 54
1 meterage%
Speed variable knob VTG-
2
(0-100) % velocity%,
meterage%
As per requirement
IR section 1: Speed (0-100) m/min% As per requirement
Intensity (in %) (20-100) P% As per described in
parameter sheet
IR section 2: Speed (0-100) m/min% As per described in
parameter sheet
Intensity (in %) (20-100) P% As per described in
parameter sheet
Padder pressure (center
bar)
(0-4) bar As per described in
parameter sheet
Speed m/min (0-120) m/min As per described in
parameter sheet
Temperature of thermex
no-1
(0-250)°C As per described in
parameter sheet
no-2
parameter sheet
no-3
parameter sheet
Blower fan setting for
thermex no-3
Low / High As per described in
parameter sheet
Position of main damper
thermex no-1
(0-6) division 3/3
thermex no-2
(0-6) division 3/3
thermex no-3
(0-6) division 6/6
Position of exhaust
damper thermex no-1
(0-6) division 3/3
Position of exhaust
damper thermex no-2
(0-6) division 6/6
Position of exhaust
damper thermex no3
(0-6) division As per requirement
Position of air flow knob
of thermex no-1
±8 division 0
of thermex no-2
±8 division 0
of thermex no-3
±8 division 0
Pneumatic pressure of
guiders
(0-10) bar Should be as minimum as
possible
Pneumatic pressure of
compensator
(0-6) bar Should be adjusted during
running as per
requirement
Position of compensator Load / Relive Should be adjusted during
running as per
requirement

P a g e | 55
Gas pressure for IR
section
(0-40) m/bar Minimum 30 m/bar
Gas pressure for burners (0-250) m/bar Minimum 50 m/bar
Position of p/v gear box
for traction device &
windows
(0-6) division Should be adjusted during
running
Air pressure (0-10) bar (4-6)bar
Parameter / Item Value / Checking
Machine setup According to GLM of fabric
Fabric availability According to the program schedule and
rout card having the test status ok
Preparation of dyeing liquor Checking the preparation and also the
shifting of the liquor to the delivery tank
Tap fabric Availability
Batcher for winding of dyed fabric Availability
Accessories / necessities / utilities Availability
Man power Availability
Machine Clean condition
Valves position Related valves are totally opened
o Weigh out accurately the dye and chemical as per recipe given.
o Add dispersing and leveling agent and water softening agent (if
applicable) into the mixer having some amount of water at room
temperature at constant stirring.
o Poor the dye into the mixer slowly and gradually allowed it to stir for
about 5-10 minute for pastels and light shade. It is advisable to dissolve
the dye separately in a bucket or beaker before adding into the mixer.
Extra care must be taking in dissolving that the dyes having least g/l
should be dissolving first and than in ascending order.
o Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately 1/4th
of total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shades).
o Add the antimigrating agent (advantageous if pre dissolved) into the
mixer or directly into the stock tank under constant stirring.
o Add the acid if required.
o Additional chemical and auxiliaries (for e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming
agent, sequestering agent etc) may also be added before leveling of liquor
as per instructed by responsible officer.
Operation procedure for bulk production:

P a g e | 56
o Thread up the machine according to the requirement under proper
tension by using a tap fabric.
o Set the parameter according to the parameter chart as per requirement.
o Switch on the exhaust fan, circulation fan or blower and burner of
thermex respectively.
o Switch on the exhaust fan, blower and lognition of IR-section respectively.
o Switch on all section drives through which the fabric is threaded up.
o Switch on the padder pressure.
o Switch on to keep the padding trough in up position.
o Switch on the level controller of padding trough.
o Check all parameters have reached to the setting values.
o Switch on the Monfort Pad Thermosol Dyeing Range for production and
sets the machine at desired speed.
Product Quality Checked:
Cosmetic defect:
During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots, coloring
spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other abnormalitic
that can be detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention that’s defect in
the process rout card.
Shade checking:
During the production the operator draws a sample after each (500-1000) at
the stitching joints (Expect for peach fabric at least 2-3 meter away from the stitching
joint) and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed bellow:
Types of dyes Process After treatment
Disperse dye PDB process After carbonization on
pilot plant
Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD)
after the after treatment process. This can be done either by using spectrophotometer
or physically with naked eyes as per customer required illumination.
Carbonization:
Carbonization is a process in which one component of blended fabric (normally
cotton part) is dissolved by using a solvent in order to check the individual property of
other component.
In practice a small washes wet piece of blended is dipped in a solution of sulfuric
acid having a concentration of (80:20) and temperature ≥ 15°c is used to dissolve the
cotton portion of PC / CVC blended fabric which is helped in studding the actual shade

P a g e | 57
of polyester portion after completion of polyester dyeing with disperse dyes or one bath
(Disperse / Reactive) dyeing.
Listing (Shade variation):
1. Production operator take 20 cm dyed fabric after first 200 meter and then after
every 500 meter.
2. Mention left side and right side properly.
3. Divided into 5 parts and give number 1 to 5 from left to right.
1 2 3 4 5
4. Stitch as per number wise.
1 3 5 2 4
5. Production office check if their exist any shade variation and take the following
corrective measure where necessary:
The padder has a facility to vary the pickup either by applying and reducing the
pressure at three different position i.e. left, center and right.
During production the side should be compare with center if found darker than it
could be controlled by increasing the pressure of the relative side and vice versa.
QC sample test:
Shade check, listing, wash fastness, water fastness and rubbing test are done by QC.
One Bath Dyeing Process
One bath solid dyeing process (Disperse/Reactive):
Solid dyeing of T/C with Disperse / Reactive dyes by Pad-Dry-Brake process is a process
in which the fixation of both dye is carried out by means of using reactively high
temperature dry air after padding and drying process.
In one bath solid dyeing process of T/C fabric with Disperse / Reactive dyes the
fabric (in open with form) is impregnated with the dyeing liquor in presence of alkali
and dispersing agent along with the dyes. The fabric is then squeezed by means of

P a g e | 58
padding mangle to remove the surplus liquor and to level the dyeing liquor into the
surface of the fabric which after passing through the airing zone is subjected for drying.
Initially it is dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the
sufficient amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric.
Complete drying is carried in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air.
Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing thermex
Equipment:
Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Range.
Key accessories:
A-frames, Jack for A-frame, Over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine,
scissors, mixer, bucket.
The material and chemical used for one bath solid dyeing process are describe
bellow-
Fabric, disperse dyes, reactive dyes, reduction inheritor, antimigrating agent, urea,
alkali, dispersing agent, leveling agent, wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering
agent etc.
o Disperse dyes - a gm/l

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o Reactive dyes - b gm/l
o Wetting agent - c gm/l
o Antimigrating agent - d gm/l
o Urea - e gm/l
o Alkali - f gm/l
o Salt - g gm/l
o Dispersing agent - h gm/l
Trial procedure:
After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to collect
and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in
First of all a 10 meters trial is conducted after adjusting it confirmation is done. In
confirmation normally (50-300) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade after
trialing effect (change in shade comes during running). An additional washed tap may
also be used along with the actual fabric in order to get the actual result after trialing.
At the completion of a trial operator is responsible to do the CPS (After treatment)
either in pilot plant or on pad steam dyeing machine, production officer compare the
trial result with the ALD in shade continuity card in data color system by using
particular type of illumination (As per the requirement of customer) based on the
result. Production officer is authorized to make necessaries change in recipe in order to
obtain the lest distribution during bulk production.
Note:
 In case of repeated orders and short quantities production officer has the
authority to start the bulk production based on the result of the previous
run.
 Polyester dyeing with disperse dye also need to trial as the bulk
production result is almost same as per bulk verification result.
o Weigh out accurately the dye and chemical as per recipe given.
o Add dispersing and leveling agent and water softening agent (if applicable)
into the mixer having some amount of water at room temperature at
constant stirring.
o Poor the disperse dyes into the color tank slowly and gradually allowed it
to stir for about 5-10 minute for pastels and light shade. It is advisable to
dissolve the dye separately in a bucket or beaker before adding into the

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mixer. Extra care must be taking in dissolving that the dyes having least g/l
should be dissolving first and then in ascending order.
o Add reactive dyes either directly or after dissolving in a bucket to the
mixer under constant stirring.
o Add urea either directly into the stock tank or into the mixer along with
the dyes depend upon the amount.
o Add the migrating inhibitor or anti migrating agent either directly into the
stock tank or into the mixer (Advantageous if pre dissolved).
o Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately 1/4th
of total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shades).
o Add pre dissolved in last before level the liquor.
o Additional chemical and auxiliaries (for e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming
agent, sequestering agent etc) may also be added before leveling of liquor
as per instructed by responsible officer.
Cosmetic defect:
During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots,
coloring spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other
abnormalitic that can be detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention
that’s defect in the process rout card.
Shade checking:
joint) and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed below:

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Disperse / Reactive dyes RTN (i.e. PDB process) After soaping on pilot
plant
Disperse / Reactive dyes PDB – CPS process After CPS and
carbonization on pilot
plan
Carbonization:
Carbonization is a process in which one component of blended fabric (normally cotton
part) is dissolved by using a solvent in order to check the individual property of other
component.
In practice a small washes wet piece of blended is dipped in a solution of sulfuric
acid having a concentration of (80:20) and temperature ≥ 15°c is used to dissolve the
cotton portion of PC / CVC blended fabric which is helped in studding the actual shade
of polyester portion after completion of polyester dyeing with disperse dyes or one bath
(Disperse / Reactive) dyeing.
Listing:
every 500 meter.
1 2 3 4 5
1 3 5 2 4

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Pigment Dyeing
Solid dyeing with pigment dyeing:
Solid dyeing of cotton and blended fabric with pigment is a surface phenomenon in
which the pigment are bond the fiber in the presence of an adhesive known as binder,
usually fixation is carried out by means of using high temperature dry air after padding
and drying operation.
In dyeing of cotton fabric with pigment the fabric (in open width form) is
impregnated with the dyeing liquor in presence of binder along with the pigment. This
is then squeeze by means of padding mangles to remove the surplus liquor and to level
the dyeing liquor onto the surface of the fabric, which after passing through the airing
zone is subjected for drying.
Initially fabric is dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the
maximum amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric.
Complete drying is carried out in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air
Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing thermex (i.e.
150°C-170°C).
Equipment:
Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Range (P-Th 1) and (P-Th 2)

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Key accessories:
A-frames, Jack for A-frame, Over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine, scissors,
mixer, bucket.
The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with pigment are describe bellow-
Fabric, pigment, binder, antimigrating agent, wetting agent, antifoaming agent etc.
o Pigment - a gm/l
o Binder - b gm/l
o Antimigrating agent - c gm/l
o Wetting agent - d gm/l
o Anti Striking agent - e gm/l
o Antifoaming agent - f gm/l
Trial procedure:
After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to
collect and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in
First of all a 10 meters trial is conducted after adjusting it confirmation is done. In
confirmation normally (50-300) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade after
trialing effect (change in shade comes during running). An additional washed tap may
also be used along with the actual fabric in order to get the actual result after trialing.
At the completion of a trial operator is responsible to do the CPS (After treatment)
either in pilot plant or on pad steam dyeing machine, production officer compare the
trial result with the ALD in shade continuity card in data color system by using
particular type of illumination (As per the requirement of customer) based on the
result. Production officer is authorized to make necessaries change in recipe in order to
obtain the lest distribution during bulk production.
Note:
o In case of repeated orders and short quantities production officer has the
authority to start the bulk production based on the result of the previous
run.

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o For darker shade normally double padding process is used due to heavy
gm/l of pigments so checking of shade is not required during single
padding operation which is normally less than half of total gm/l.
Production officer should be careful during double padding process about
shade and list. Operation procedure for double padding process will be
the same as the single padding process.
o Weigh out accurately the dyes and chemical as per recipe given by
production officer.
o Pour the pigment into the color tank by using bottom cloth having same
amount of water at room temperature under constant stirring.
o Add the antimigrating agent (advantageous if pre dissolved) into the
mixer or directly into the stock tank under constant stirring.
o Then add binder by filtering into color tank at constant stirring.
o Additional chemical and auxiliaries (e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent,
sequestering agent etc.) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per
instructed by responsible officer
Cosmetic defect: During production operator responsible to check the
cosmetic defect like spots, coloring spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled
selvedge or any other abnormalitic that can be detected with naked eyes and also
responsible to mention that’s defect in the process rout card.

P a g e | 65
Shade checking:
joint) and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed below:
Pigment PDB process Directly (no need of after treatment
except in double padding process)
Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD) after the
after treatment process. This can be done either by using spectrophotometer or
physically with naked eyes as per customer required illumination.
For darker shade normally double padding process is used due to heavy gm/l of
pigments so checking of shade is not required during single padding operation which is
normally less than half of total gm/l. Production officer should be careful during double
padding process about shade and list. Operation procedure for double padding process
will be the same as the single padding process.
Listing:
every 500 meter.
1 2 3 4 5
1 3 5 2 4
The padder has a facility to vary the pick up either by applying and reducing the
QC sample test:Quality control does shade check and listing test during
operation. QC also checks the parameter.

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Dyeing Process in Pad-Steam
Machine
Key accessories:
mixer, bucket
The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with chemical pad-steam process
are describe bellow-
Steam, compressed air, gas, detergent reducing agent, alkali, acid, ionic or non
ionic salt, reduction inhibitor etc.
Fig: Chemical pad steam machine.

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Operation procedure:
Preparation of chemical:
Recipe:
o Gluberies salt 250 g/l
o Reduction inhibitor 5-10 g/l
o Caustic soda 6-10 g/l
o Soda ash 10-20 g/l
1. Weigh out the chemical as per recipe given by production officer.
2. Add Gluberies salt in stock tank gradually having ½ of liquor of total
requirement at (40-30) °C under constant stirring.
3. Add the pre dissolved reduction inhibitor, caustic flask and soda ash (if
required) separately.
4. Make up the level up to desire amount.
5. Stir well for about 15-20 min before use.
Preparation of chemical for R/C & striping process:
Recipe:
o Sodium hydrosulfite (30-50) g/l
o Caustic flasks (15-25) g/l
2. Add pre dissolved caustic flask in stock tank having at least ½ of water of total
requirement at room temperature.
3. Add sodium hydrosulfite directly but gradually in stock tank under constant
stirring at room temperature.
4. Make up the level up to desired amount.
Preparation of chemical for washing and Definishing:
Recipe:
Chemical For washing tank For stock tank
Detergent (1-3) g/l (5-15) g/l
Soda ash (if require) (5-10) g/l (25-50) g/l

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2. Detergent and soda ash can be dissolved very easily in sufficient amount if water at
normal temperature because of excellent solubility.
3.
Preparation of chemical for vat development process:
Recipe:
o Sodium hydrosulfite 50 g/l
o Caustic flask 25 g/l
o Glubers salt 13 g/l
o Dispersing agent 3 g/l
2. Add the glubers salt and dispersing agent in stock tank gradually having ½ of
liquor of total requirement under constant stirring.
3. Add the pieces of ice or use chilled water in order to keep the temperature of
liquor less than 15 °C.
4. Add the pre dissolved dispersing agent and caustic flask in stock tank separately.
5. Make up the level up to desired amount.
6. Add sodium hydrosulfite into the stock tank just before stirring it into the
delivery tank.
For washing section recipe:
For washing tank For washing tank
For
W/A-
2
Hydrogen
peroxide
3 g/l 15 g/l
Acidic acid 5 g/l 25 g/l
for
W/A-
4
Detergent 2 g/l 10 g/l
Soda ash 5 g/l 25 g/l
o Thread up the machine as per process requirement.
o Stitch the first end of fabric with trial of tap fabric.
o Switch on the entire sector switch for main drive through which the fabric is
threaded up.
o Switch on the entire sector switches for torque motors of each main drive.
o Set the parameter of the machine ad per process requirement.
o Checked all the parameters reached to their setting value.
o Press the shutdown switch in order to keep the padder in their squeezing
position and wait till a green indication appears at panel for “Ready”.
o Switch on the Goller-pad-steam dyeing range for production and set the machine
at desired speed.

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Cosmetic defect:
During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots, coloring
spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other abnormalitic
that can be detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention that’s defect in
the process rout card.
Shade checking:
During the production the operator draws a sample after each (500-1000) at the
stitching joints (Expect for peach fabric at least 2-3 meter away from the stitching joint)
and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement.
Listing:
every 500 meter.
1 2 3 4 5
1 3 5 2 4
QC sample test: Quality control does shade check and listing test during
operation. QC also checks the parameter.

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Chapter-
Five
FINISHING SECTION

P a g e | 71
FINISHING IN STENTER MACHINE
Finishing:
A fabric finishing process is a process for providing specific quality to the fabric that is
required by the customer .i.e. (soft, wrinkle free etc ).
Refinishing and topping:
Refinishing and topping is a repetitive finishing process to cotton fabric, TC fabric and
yarn dyed fabric. To minimize the dyeing as per customer swatch and if necessary
some pigment dyes are used for the purpose.
Equipment:
MONFORTS STENTER MACHINE I & II.
Key accessories:
Two electronic measuring balance, two breakers, pH paper (3-12), sewing
machine, pinning brush.
Materials and chemicals used:
The materials and chemicals used in the stenter machine for the TC fabric, 100%
cotton, and twill fabric finishing as well as re-finishing process are described below. A
sequence of chemical pouring is used in the wrinkle free finished fabric to avoid
unwanted chemical reaction.
Name of the fabric Chemicals and materials used (the chemical
sequence no is given in the left of wrinkle free
finished fabric)
1) White fabric (soft) Cotton OBA (optical brightening agent)
Polyester cotton OBA
Softener
Tinting agent
2) White fabric
(wrinkle free and
Easy care)
l. Softener
ll. cotton OBA
lll. Polyester cotton OBA
lV. pH adjusted with CH3COOH.
V. resin depends on fabric weight .i.e 110 g/l is
recognized as light ( 110-300) g/l is medium fabric
and
(330-500) g/l is heavy fabric.

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Vl. Wetting agent (when chemical absorbency is
poor)
Vll. Tinting agent.
Vlll. Additives.
lX. Catalyst (20-30)% of resin
3) Colored fabric
(soft)
Softener
Dye fixer (it is used according to color fastness)
pH adjusted with acetic acid
Anti foam for 100% cotton and twill fabric
(for deep shade)
4) Colored fabric
(Wrinkle free)
L Softener
ll. Resin
lll. Wetting agent (when chemical absorbency is
poor)
lV. pH adjusted with acetic acid
V. Dye fixer
Vll. Catalyst 25-30% or resin
5) Yarn dyed (soft) Softener
Acetic acid for pH adjustment
OBA as per requirement
6) Yarn dyed
(ultra soft)
Softener
Acetic acid for pH adjustment
OBA as per requirement
7) Yarn dyed (wrinkle
free & easy care)
l. Softener/Catalyst
ll. Additive
lll. Resin
lV. Wetting agent
V. OBA (if required)
Vl. pH adjusted with acetic acid
Vll. Catalyst 25-33% or resin
8) Colored fabric
(hard finish &
shiny finish)
Softening agent
Wetting agent
Additive
Resin
Catalyst
Acetic acid
OBA
9) Water repellent Hydrophobic agent
Stiffing agent
Softener
Acetic acid
Safety:
o During production never touch any rotating or movable part or machine.
o Never mix two or more chemical in their concentration.
o Follow all the safety instructions mentioned form in the machine.

P a g e | 73
o Before entering into thermex keep the blower and burner “off “.
o Always use the fiber clips to avoid selvedge folding.
o Do not touch pins bar/clip bar.
o Do not open the window of the gas burner during production.
Operation procedure for white fabric finishing (Soft)
The pilot plant (fabric) provides customer approved swatch with recipe of the
white fabric to the finishing department where as preparation department provides
the bleached fabric. The finishing procedure begin with the calculation of solution a
amount for a particular fabric the formula as below :
 Solution amount = fabric weight (kg) X fabric length (m) X pick up % +
through content + 3% wastage
HERE
Pick up % = 60% - 70% ( for white fabric)
= 50% - 55% ( for colored fabric)
Through content is 80 L solution required in the through wastage is 3% of
solution.
The trial process fast start with same fabric of 1 m and required chemical solution.
Chemical are measured by using balance and takes in the bucket separately. Then
tinting agent is measure and taken into a breaker to dilute with hot water. Other
chemical are dilute with hot water on normal water based upon the reference of
the chemical literature book of the chemical company.
Mixing tank is filled up with 50% of water to the required solution level (
100L) and the chemical are poured separately into the tank through a piece of
filter cloth. A sequence is maintained for chemical pouring into the mixing tank for
the wrinkle free finished fabric so the fabric is not damaged by the chemical
solution. Then the solution is measured to ensure the 100 L level by using a still
rolled and water is added if necessary. Chemical are stirred for five minutes by the
fan in the mixing tank and then sets to the upper tank.
The upper tank sets the solution to the trough machine which has a value at the
level of 80 L the value close automatically. At that specific level and opens when
the solution level goes lower than 80 L.
The operation fixes the one m of sample fabric on the pins on the endless chain at
the feed side starts the machine to develop it. When the trial fabric is developed it
is usually impacted with the approved sample for the parameters ( softness,
hardness, stiffness, shade match etc ) ordered by customer. Then a piece of fabric

P a g e | 74
( Max “14 X 14” ) is cut from the trial fabric to scan the shade in the data color of
pilot plant (Lab ). The shade scan is necessary to fixed out any deviation in the
fabric and also to take corrective action to overcome these fault / deviation.
If the trial fabric matches with the customer approved sample then trial ends and
production department decide to go for bulk production. After every 1000 m. 1 m
sample is sent to the QC for QC tests. If the trial does not match then the recipe,
temperature or the machine speed is adjusted from the reference of parameter
register, and the shade scanning report and the same trial process repeat until it
match with the customer approved sample. For the bulk production chemical
solution is prepared from the formula mentioned above and poured in the mixing
tank of one bath at a time capacity of each bath is 400 L.
 Operation procedure for white fabric finishing (Soft)
The operation procedure of white fabric (wrinkle free ) finishing is
same as white fabric soft finishing process. Except the chemical
composition. Some new chemical (Resin, Catalyst, Wetting Agent,
Acetic Acid and Additives ) are added here.
 Operation procedure for colored fabric finishing (Soft)
Planning department provides the customer approved swatch and
the dyeing department the fabric to the finishing department then
a recipe is prepared base on the reference of the chemical
literature book of the chemical company , program register and
data color of pilot plant (Lab).
The process starts from the calculation of solution amount and is
same as white fabric (soft) finishing process. The only difference
here is the pick up % which is (47-50) % and the chemical stirring
in the mixing tank which is (2-3) minute.
Operation procedure for colored fabric finishing (wrinkle free)
The operation procedure of colored fabric wrinkle free finishing is
same as colored fabric soft finishing process except the chemical
composition.
Some new chemical (Resin, Catalyst, Wetting agent and Acetic
Acid) are added here.

P a g e | 75
In case of TC fabric, 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator checks the shade in
naked eyes in the stenter machine. If any deviation is found then he informs the
responsible shift officer who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If the
officer then the departmental head production is informed and finally he give the
decision. Shade checking is not applicable for the sanforizing process.
Fault check:
The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e. Double yarn, Warp and Weft missing,
yarn contamination etc.) , spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark, Bend mark,
Chemical spot, Dropping mark, Listing, Torn and Hole, Fabric structure etc.).
During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about
300-500 m of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not
recorded on the process route card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:
o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur
from previous process.
o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to
machine faults or the faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness
of machine parameters and chemical composition).
o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the
chemical pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics
not correct and hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.
For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the proper
sequence (reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for wrinkle free
finished fabric).
Width check:
measure fabric with by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required
finished width that is mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn
dyed width checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width.
QC sample test:
1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to the
QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC sample
test. QC department does the physical test , chemical test and analysis the test and notes
the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During scanning of twill fabric data

P a g e | 76
color the sample must be set vertically warp wise. Refer to specification for details of
the methods of sample scanning.
Sanforizig:
Sanforizing is a mechanical treatment of fabric (sample given cotton and CVC) in the
sanforizing for shrinkage of soft fabric (sample given cotton and CVC fabric etc) and
transforming the fabric into soft, glossy and smooth fabric for end use.
Equipment:
MONFORTS SANFORIZING MACHINE
Key accessories:
The necessaries tools/accessories used for the sanforizing machine are as follows
:
Sewing machine, measuring tape, white papers.

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Fig:Sanforizing Machine.
Material/chemical used:
N/A
Safety measure:
Fig: Process flow diagram of sanforizing machine.

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Production procedure
Operation staff
 In charge finishing
 Assistant manager
 Textile technologist
 Production officer
 Finishing operator
 Assistant finishing operator
 Helpers
 Learners
Machine set up:
Described below with the machine set up for cotton and CVC fabric is:
Check list Set up range Set value
Steam pressure for damping roller (0-5) bar 2.5 bar
Water pressure for spraying before
damping roller
(0-5) bar 4.5 bar
Over feed (0-10) bar 5% as required loose
Rubber belt pressure (0-18) bar 8-12 bar
Rate of water spraying on rubber belt As required
Steam pressure for rubber belt (0-3) bar 0-2 bar less than two
Rubber belt tension (0-10) bar Depends on belt
thickness
Air pressure for felt belt (0-6) bar 4.5 bar
Steam pressure for felt belt (0-3) bar 2-3 bar
Pressure for winding batcher (0-10) bar 0-4 bar
o After completion of the checklist before starting the sanforizing process
(for the cotton and CVC) the operator gets approval from the production
officer.
o The operator sets the feed side batcher and check the shrinkage of the
fabric by a special type of scale and the fabric is guided up to the damper.
The fabric process through the friction and heat of the rubber belt region
and also through the felt calendar region of the sanforizing machine.
o The empty batcher is set to the rare end of the rotation station.
o During the process the operator stop the machine to check the shrinkage
of the fabric at the rare end. If the shrinkage setting is all right then the
bulk production continuous and if there is any deviation in the shrinkage
setting then the setting pressure and roller pressure are adjusted.

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o For wrinkle free fabric the shrinkage is controlled by resin finishing and
then passed through the calendar region for getting soft, glossy and
smooth finishes quality as a final product.
o The quality of the fabric depends on various parameters discussed in the
checklist. The operator must check these parameters carefully during the
process to avoid any defects.
In case of TC fabric , 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator check the shade in
naked eyes in the sanforizing machine. If any deviation is found then he inform the
responsible shift officer who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If the
officer then the departmental head production is informed and finally he give the
Fault check:
The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e. Double yarn, Warp and Weft
missing, yarn contamination etc.) , spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark,
Bend mark, Chemical spot, Dropping mark, Listing, Torn and Hole, Fabric structure
etc.).
During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about
300-500 m of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not
recorded on the process route card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:
o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur from
previous process.
o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to machine
faults or the faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness of machine
parameters and chemical composition).
o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the chemical
pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and
hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.
For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the proper
sequence (reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for wrinkle free
finished fabric).
Width check:
Measure fabric by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished
width that is mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width
checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width.

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 Design the fabric bow check for yarn dyed fabric-
In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjust the machine
for checking stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric
 QC sample test-
1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to
the QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the
QC sample test. QC department does the physical test , chemical test and analysis
the test and notes the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During
scanning of twill fabric data color machine the sample must be set vertically
warpwise. Refer to specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.
Heat setting and stretching process in stenter machine
Heat setting and stretching:
Heat setting is a mechanical process before dying of TC+CVC fabric to give
dimensional stability and shrinkage control. Whereas stretching is also a
mechanical process before dying of all cotton fabric to remove crease marks and to
get required width for next process.
Equipment:
MONFORTS STENTER MACHINE
Key accessories:
The necessaries tools/accessories used for the stenter machine are as follows
:
Sewing machine, measuring tape, white papers.
Material and chemical used:
Sometimes wetting agent (.e.g. mixture of surface active compound) are used as
chemical for the heat setting and stretching process.
Safety measure:

P a g e | 81
o Before entering into thermex keep the blower and burner “off “.
o Always use the fiber clips to avoid selvedge folding.
o Do not touch pins bar/clip bar.
o Do not open the window of the gas burner during production.
Fig: Heat settings in Stenter Machine.
Production procedure:
Operation staff
o In charge finishing
o Assistant manager
o Textile technologist
o Production officer
o Finishing operator
o Assistant finishing operator
o Helpers
o Learners
Machine setup:
Described below is the machine set up for the stenter machine for TC fabric, Twill
fabric, 100% cotton fabric, cotton poplin and other light fabric finishing, re-finishing
process for white and colored fabric.
Checklist Set-up range Set value
Mangle pressure (2-6) bar Depends on pick up

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Temperature setting (60-250)°C According to the shade
(reference are taken from
production register)
Temperature (for re-finishing)
(150-180)°C According to the shade
(reference are taken from
production register
Over feed (0-18)% As required
solid dyed fabric
Low and high High
yarn dyed fabric
Low and high High
Exhaust fan setting Auto /manual Manual
Width of machine chain
setting
(70-80)cm 1. Described with (+8)cm
in case of pin
2. Described with (+6)cm
in case of clip
Pleva setting parameter
for TC”g” for cotton “O”
(4.5-5.5) % As required
Fabric pneumatic dyed
bar pressure
(0-2) bar 0.5 bar
Machine pins/clips N/A Pins (for light fabric)
Clips (for heavy fabric)
Burner gas pressure 20 ml (fixed) 20 ml
Machine speed (7-120) m/min m/min
light shade - 40-100
dark shade - 40-100
light/soft finished fabric
- 40-100
Twill fabric - 40-70
Wrinkle free fabric – 20-25
Bianco Program no (1-10) Depends on fabric structure
Checklist before production:
Parameters / Items Value / checking
Machine setup a) Threading of machine as per process
requirement.
b) Parameters set up should be as per
process requirement.
Fabric availability According to program schedule and the route
card having test status “OK”
Preparation of chemicals Checking of preparation and also the shifting of
liquor to the delivery tanks.
Tape fabric Availability
Batches for winding Availability
Accessories, necessities and
utilities
Availability
Machine Clean condition.

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Manpower Availability
1) For heat setting
First fabric passes through various tension roller , draw guide roller, through (fill
water), padder, bianco, pinning shoes, pins and brushes. The fabric are entered
into drying and thermosol unit by pins track. Pins track transfers fabric in
delivery unit and wrapped on batcher. Mainly heat setting occurs in the area of
thermosoling unit. To get better heat setting moreover heat applied on fabric. In
case of poor absorbency some wetting agent are in through.
2) For stretching
First fabric passes through various draw rollers, tension rollers, guide rollers,
trough(fill water), padder , bianco. Then fabric are entire into drying chamber by
clips track. Clips truck carries the fabric in delivery unit and wrapped on batcher.
Fabric are stretched by clips both warp and weft way. Drying chamber used for
dryed fabric. In case of poor absorbency some wetting agent are used in through
with mixing water.
Preparation of chemical for heat setting and stretching (if required):
Only (1-2) g/l wetting is added in 400 l solution in the mixing tank of the
machine.
In case of TC fabric , 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator check the shade in
naked eyes in the stenter machine. If any deviation is found then he inform the
responsible shift officer who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If
the officer then the departmental head production is informed and finally he give the
Fault check:
The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e. Double yarn, Warp and Weft missing,
yarn contamination etc.) , spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark, Bend mark,
Chemical spot, Dropping mark, Listing, Torn and Hole, Fabric structure etc.).
During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about 300-
500 m of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on
the process route card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:

P a g e | 84
o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur from
previous process.
o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to machine
faults or the faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness of machine
parameters and chemical composition).
o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the chemical
pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and
hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.
o For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the
proper sequence (reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for
wrinkle free finished fabric).
o width check
measure fabric with by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished
width that is mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width
checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width
o Design and fabric bow check
In the delivery side the operator check the design and bow, adjust the machine for
checking the stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric.
o Pin setting check (for TC and yarn dyed fabric)
Checks all the delivery side if the schedule of fabric is set in pins correctly.
o Clips checking (for 100% cotton and twill fabric)
Check the feeding side .i.e. setting of fabric on the clips
QC sample check:
1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to
the QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC
sample test. QC department does the physical test , chemical test and analysis the
test and notes the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During scanning of
twill fabric datacolor machine the sample must be set vertically warp wise. Refer to
specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.

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