This document provides information on denim washing processes. It discusses the types of denim washes including enzyme wash, stone wash, bleach wash, and acid wash. It also describes the purpose of washing denim garments, which is to remove sizing, soften the fabric, modify appearance, and create different finishes and effects. The document outlines the chemical washes used such as bleach wash, which uses a strong oxidizing bleaching agent like sodium hypochlorite. It also lists the types of machines commonly used in washing plants.
4. Enzyme & bleach are used in denim apparel washing .Acid enzyme & neutral enzyme both
are used in denim apparel .Enzyme is more suitable than bleach for environment on the
other hand bleach are suitable for production but it’s a hazardous in environment .So
enzyme is more popular.
INTRODUCTION
Depending on garments construction different types of washing process can be done.
1.Twill/Canvas/Knitted/Corduroy - Normal wash, Pigment wash, Caustic ,Si wash
2.Denim/Jeans/Gabardine - Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Bleach wash , Acid wash
3.Grey fabric- Super white wash
5. Washing:
It is a technology by which outlook, size and fashion of garments are changed or
modified is called garment washing. Washing is mainly applied on denim garments and
any other casual garments.
Purpose of washing:
To remove sizing materials and to soften the garment.
To modify the appearance to make fashion.
To create different effects and finishes.
To create vintage look and used effect.
6. Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and
to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not
washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the
fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially
distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by
the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates
what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.
DENIM WASHING
7.
8. What is denim ?
Denim is a twill-weave woven & 100% cotton fabric that uses different colors for the
warp and weft. One color is predominant on the fabric surface. Denim wears well and
resists snags and tears. It is available in different weights and is usually made of cotton,
although hemp denim is also available. Denim is commonly used for jeans and work
clothes, as well as for casings for organic futons and pillows.
Characteristics of Denim Fabric
It is for long wearing.
It is hard wearing.
It is very strong and durable.
It resists snags and tears
It creases easily.
Denim fabric process :-
Desizing → Enzyme → Caustic → bleaching → Hypo → Softening → Hydro extractor→
Dryer m/c → Garments Delivery.
DENIM
9. Denim are dye by indiga dye:
IndigoBackground
Indigo, or indigotin, is a dyestuff originally extracted from the varieties of the indigo
and woad plants. Indigo was known throughout the ancient world for its ability to
color fabrics a deep blue. Egyptian artifacts suggest that indigo was employed as early
as 1600 B.C. and it has been found in Africa, India, Indonesia, and China.
The dye imparts a brilliant blue hue to fabric. In the dying process, cotton and linen
threads are usually soaked and dried 15-20 times. By comparison, silk threads must
be died over 40 times. After dying, the yarn may be sun dried to deepen the color.
Indigo is unique in its ability to impart surface color while only partially penetrating
fibers. When yarn died with indigo is untwisted, it can be seen that the inner layers
remain uncolored. The dye also fades to give a characteristic wom look and for this
reason it is commonly used to color denim. Originally extracted from plants, today
indigo is synthetically produced on an industrial scale. It is most commonly sold as
either a 100% powder or as a 20% solution
DENIM
10. Garments receive from sewing
Scraping
Tearing
Whickering
P.P spray
Curing/Tearing
Washing
Drying Hot + cold
Checking
Disposes
Production sequence of Washing
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
11. GARMENT WASHING:
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, out look comfort ability &
fashion of the garments is called garment washing.
Since 1978, garments pre washing has become more and more popular. It began with
denim jeans for the following reasons,
1. Before garments pre washing was done on jeans, consumers had to wash them at
home before wearing them because before washing they were too stiff, too long
and too big to wear.
2. After pre washing, the consumers do not have to worry about the fit after they
wash them as pre washing has taken away almost all the shrinkage and made the
jeans stable.
3. After pre washing the denim color looks more lively particular with the
pronounced washed look left on the double needled seams.
DENIM GARMENT WASHING:
12. Mechanical washes
1. Stone wash
2. Micro-sanding
Chemical washes
1. Denim bleaching
2. Enzyme wash
3. Acid wash
DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES
13. TYPES OF WET WASH PROCESS:
1. Normal wash/ garments wash/ rinse wash.
2. Pigment wash.
3. Caustic wash.
4. Silicon wash.
5. Stone wash.
6. Enzyme wash.
7. Stone Enzyme wash.
8. Acid wash.
9. Bleach wash.
10. Tinting wash
TYPES OF DRY WASH PROCESS:
1. Sand Blasting.
2. Hands scraping.
3. Over all wrinkles.
4. Permanent wrinkle.
5. Grinding &Destroy.
6. Broken & tagging.
7. P P Spray & P P Sponging.
8. Etc.
TYPES OF DENIM WASHES
15. TYPES OF CHEMICAL USE IN WASHING PLANT:
1. Enzyme 2. Detergent
3. Acetic Acid 4. Anti-stain
5.Bleaching powder 6.Sodium hyposulfite
7. Caustic Soda 8. Soda Ash
9. Sodium Bicarbonate 10. potassium Permanganate
11. cationic/nonionic Flax softener 12. Micro Emulsion Silicon
13. Salt (sodium chloride) 14. Buffer
15. Hydrogen peroxide 16. Stabilizer
17. Fixing 18. Catanizer
19. Optical Brightener 20. Resin
21. Sodium Metabisulphite 22. Desizing agent
16. Desizing Agent : DesizingHts, D-Peast
Anti Back Stain Agent : Antistain – Lp-30
Fastness Improvers For Dyeing : Albafix®
Levelling Agents For Dyeing : Albatex®
Fastness Improvers For Dyeing : Albafix®
Enzyme : G Enzyme S89, G Enzyme – Sl, InnozymeNpe S89
Salt : G/Salt.
Alkali : Naso4
Ph Control : Using Buffer & Acid
Bleaching Agent : Sodium Hypochlorite Naocl; 15% Cl2 Available
Calcium Hypochlorite.
Neutralizing Agent : Hydro Peroxide, Bisulphate OrThiosulphate.
Softener : Innosoft 1070
Some Washing Chemical List
17. 1. Bleach fast Indigo
Value addition to denim
Retains indigo on certain parts
Kind of resist effect
Chemical applied by brush, cured at 150ºC Ex. Indigofix AXN
2. Anti-depositing agent
Prevents “back staining” of fabric by loose indigo during washing
Improves contrast in denim
Used in stone wash step
3. Dye stuffs with softener
To carry dyeing and softening in one step
Soft and supple hand
Saves time, money and energy as added to final rinse
Gives used and worn out effect
Function of Chemicals used on denims
18. 4. Anti creasing agent
Provides fabric to fabric lubrication
Prevents formation of crack marks and streaks
Minimizes abrasion and gives strength
5. Wrinkle formation
Creating smooth and permanent wrinkle
Cross linking concept Ex. DMDHEU
White pigment
Can be applied by brush, spray or screen
Then cured at 150ºC
Washed and treated with softener
6. White pigment
Can be applied by brush, spray or screen
Then cured at 150ºC
Washed and treated with softener.
Function of Chemicals used on denims
20. Process:
Garments received from sewing room / section is subjected to following process:
1. Batching,
2. Desizeing,
3. Enzyme/stone wash treatment,
4. Decolonization, (Bleach wash or Acid wash)
5. Finishing
A Typical Denim Garments Washing
21. Desizing:
1. Batching: Garments are often turned inside out first; this is a very time-
consuming labor oriented task. Garments are weighted in a suitable wt.
as per m/c capacity.
Desizing: Mainly it is done to remove the water insoluble starch from the
fabric of garments as well as it gives a degree of absorbency & soft handfeel
to the garments. There are three methods of desizing.
1. Enzymatic Desizing
2. Oxidative Desizing
3. Mechanical Desizing
22. Enzymatic Desizing:
Here amylase enzyme is used widely and this is the most popular method of
removing starch. Amylase breaks down the long water insoluble starch
molecular chain into water-soluble smaller sections (sugar), which can be
washed away very easily. During removal of starch it also removes some
indigo from the fabric, which is also a great advantage for Denim wash as this
produces frosty effect.
In case of size binder components, PVA, sizing waxes lubricants, which are not
cleaved by enzyme or impossible to remove by enzymes, are removed by hot
wash with detergent. But this detergent should be compatible with enzyme.
Enzymatic Desizing
23. Chemicals Name Dose % WOG Purpose
Amylase Enzyme 1-3%; As recommended Breaks down the longer starch
molecular chin into smaller section &
this is soluble in water
Surfactant As recommended 0.2-
1.0%
Wash off the sizing
Compatible with enzyme & others.
Fixing agent As recommended 0.5-
2.0%
Fixing the dyes & reduce Wash-off of
dyes.
Temperature &
Time
As recommended 140 F-
150 F & 40-60 min
Smaller section of starch, Wax binder
converted to Water soluble
components
L: R 1:5-1:10
PH 6-8 It helps to prevent back staining.
Recipe & Purpose Of Chemicals:
After drain a hot wash 50C for 5-3 min required for cleaning the desize chemicals. Here it is
very important to introduce hot water because introduction of cold water re-solidify the fat
and wax.
Enzymatic Desizing
24. Reaction Of Alpha Amylase With Starch:
O
O
OH
CH3
OH
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
O
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
O
OH
OH
OH
Alpha-amylase enzyme attacks the starch only at the alpha 1-4 linkage,
producing water-soluble dextrine i.e. soluble sugars. The progress like as:
Starch → dextrine → maltose → glucose (water-soluble)
Enzymatic Desizing
25. Oxidative Desizing: This method is considered as faster than biological process & this
can also cleaves PVA sizes, which are not broken by amylase enzyme. As many denim
fabric manufacturers apply size with a combination of starch and PVA this process
gives us an advantages over biological or enzymatic desizing in case of removal of
PVA.
O
O
OH
CH3
OH
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
O
OH
CH3
OH
O
OH
CH2OH
OH
Oxidative Desizing
26. Recipe & Purpose Of Chemicals
Chemicals Name Dose % WOG Purpose
Non-ionic/Anionic
Surfactant
As recommended 0.5-1.0% Wash off of the size ingredients
Hydrogen per
oxide 35%
2-4% It cleaves the starch & make it water
soluble.
Alkali
(Soda,NaOH)
0.5-1.0% Maintain PH 9-11, Increase of sulpher
dyed garments PH should be below 10.5.
Stabilizer 0.6-1.5% To stable H2O2
Fixing agent As recommended 0.5-2.0% Fixing the dyes & reduce Wash-off of
dyes.
Temperature &
Time
As recommended
140 F-150 F & 10-30 min
Broken starch, wax, Binders converted to
water soluble with the help of temp &
time.
L: R 1:5-1:10
After drainage a hot wash or hot rinse required for removing the desize chemicals. A neutralizing
(with acid) process is required which depends on the type and requirement of next process.
Oxidative Desizing
27. Denim bleach In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium
hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition.
Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach
liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach
with short treatment time. Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they
should be adequately antichlored or after washed with peroxide to minimize
yellowing. Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity.
DENIM BLEACH
28. WHAT IS BLEACH:
A bleach is a chemical that removes colors or whitens, often via oxidation. Common
chemical bleaches include household chlorine bleach, a solution of approximately 3–
6% sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), and oxygen bleach, which contains hydrogen
peroxide or a peroxide-releasing compound such as sodium perborate, sodium
percarbonate, sodium persulfate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, or urea peroxide
together with catalysts and activators, e.g. tetraacetylethylenediamine and/or sodium
nonanoyloxybenzenesulfonate. To bleach something is to apply bleach, sometimes as
a preliminary step in the process of dyeing. Bleaching powder is calcium hypochlorite.
Many bleaches have strong bactericidal properties, and are used for disinfecting and
sterilizing. Most bleaches are hazardous if ingested or inhaled, and should be used
with care.
DENIM BLEACH
29. This way be considered as a preparatory process of mercerizing ,dyeing, or printing
.therefore proper bleaching should be carried out other wish the subsequent process
would be fault.
Objective:
1. To remove the size material from the garments.
2. To remove the starch present on the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. Especially develop the “Bio-polishing’’ affect cotton/Denim.
6. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
7. Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth
surface.
DENIM BLEACH
BLEACHING WASHING
31. MECHANISM OF BLEACH ACTION:
Color in most dyes and pigments is produced by molecules, such as beta carotene,
which contain chromophores. Chemical bleaches work in one of two ways
•An oxidizing bleach works by breaking the chemical bonds that make up the
chromophore. This changes the molecule into a different substance that either does
not contain a chromophore, or contains a chromophore that does not absorb visible
light.
A reducing bleach works by converting double bonds in the chromophore into single
bonds. This eliminates the ability of the chromophore to absorb visible light.
Mechanism of bleach action:
33. WHAT IS ENZYME:
Enzymes are proteins Bio catalyze.Its has huge life cell .The cell is the basic structural
and functional unit of all known living organisms. It is the smallest unit of life that is
classified as a living thing, and is often called the building block of life.Some
organisms, such as most bacteria, are unicellular (consist of a single cell). Other
organisms, such as humans, are multicellular. (Humans have an estimated 100 trillion
or 1014 cells; a typical cell size is 10 µm; a typical cell mass is 1 nanogram.) The
largest known cell is an unfertilized ostrich egg cell.In enzymatic reactions, the
molecules at the beginning of the process are called substrates, and the enzyme
converts them into different molecules, called the products. Almost all processes in a
biological cell need enzymes to occur at significant rates. Since enzymes are selective
for their substrates and speed up only a few reactions from among many possibilities,
the set of enzymes made in a cell determines which metabolic pathways occur in that
cell.
ENZYME WASH
34. ENZYME WASH
OBJECTIVE:
1. To remove the size material from the garments.
2. To remove the starch present on the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. Especially develop the “Bio-polishing’’ affect cotton/Denim.
6. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
7. Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth
surface.
Types of Enzyme:
Mainly two types of Enzyme:
1. Acid Enzyme (a. Powder b. Liquid form.)
2. Neutral Enzyme (a. Powder b. Liquid form.)
After enzyme washing we get thise change:
Color
Gsm decrease
Softener
Strength
35. ENZYME WASH
It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic enzymes that eat
away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the enzymes can
be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment
includes final rinsing and softening cycle. The effects produced by the cellulose enzyme are
–
Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable
Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
Faded garment with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color contrast in
proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulose enzymes.
Garment load size of the machine is 35-40 jeans per machine and it cannot be overloaded.
ENZYME WASH
36. ACID WASH
It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of
sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a
non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. In this wash the color contrast of the denim
fabric can be enhanced by optical brightening. The advantage of this process is that it
saves water as addition of water is not required.
ACID WASH
39. Stone wash:
In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing
machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look.
Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones
multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.
Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the
surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of
the yarn.
STONE WASH:
40. LIMITATIONS OF STONE WASHING:
Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome of a load of
jeans is never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much
abrasion.
The process is non-selective.
Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machines get abraded.
This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and increases
production costs.
Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the garment
grayish in color and rough too
Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash
Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts
MICRO-SANDING
There are 3 ways for this technique:
Sandblasting
Machine sanding
Hand sanding or hand brushing
STONE WASH:
41. Sand blasting
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular,
powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto
specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/
abraded/used look.
It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.
It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.
44. Rinse wash
1. Chemically bleaching jeans so that the color fades away
2. Breaks down the fibers of jeans and creates white streaks or spots on denim
3. Gives a unique rugged look, also called snow wash
4. Earlier involved the use of pumice stone
5. Presently process involves spraying chemical and removing it immediately
6. Come in colors like blue, black, green, brown, grey etc.
Cellulose wash
1. This is done to achieve a wash down appearance without the use of stones or with
reduced quantities of stones.
2. Cellulose enzymes are selective only to the cellulose and will not degrade starch.
3. Under certain conditions, their ability to react with cellulose (cotton) will result in
surface fiber removal (weight loss).
4. This will give the garments a washed appearance and soft hand.
Ozone fading
1. By using this technique, the garment can be bleached.
2. Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in
water.
3. Denim garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed
chamber.
4. In the presence of UV light, there is an interaction between the hydrocarbons,
oxides of nitrogen and oxygen that causes release of ozone.
5. Indigo dyestuff tends to fade or turn yellow due to ozone reaction.
45. Flat finish
It is a special process done to impart fabric with an even wash down effect and very
clean surface. Originally liquid ammonia was used, but now use mercerization plus
calendering processes to achieve the flat surface. Mercerization swells up the cotton
fibers and allows the calendering to press flat the surface. They consider this as an
imitation process to the use of ammonia, which is toxic and not allowed in commercial
use in most countries
Over dye
1. Dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of color
2. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look
3. Also can be applied with spray gun or paintbrush for local coloring
Sun-washing
1. A very light shade by bleaching and stoning
2. Looks as if the sun faded the fabric
Super dark stone
1. Commercial term for an extra dark indigo color
2. Results from a double-dyeing technique
46. Snow wash denim
Denim treated with a variation of acid wash that imparts bright white highlights.
Quick wash denim
1. Aims at minimizing wash cycle time
2. Results in more economical washes and solving many other washing problems
faced by
launderes during fashion wash cycles
1. The yarns are ring dyed using indigo giving 25 to 30% less fixed dye to obtain a
given shade
2. During wash cycle,indigo dye can be removed quickly,giving washed look
47. Other mechanical washing
1. Whiskering
2. Shot gun denim
3. Water jet fading
4. Super stone wash
5. Ice wash
6. Thermo denim
7. Laser technology finish
48. Water jet fading
1. Hydrojet treatment is used for enhancing the surface finish, texture, durability of
denim garment.
2. Hydroject treatment involves exposing one or both surfaces of the garment
through hydrojet nozzles.
3. The degree of color washout, clarity of patterns, and softness of the resulting fabric
are related to the type of dye in the fabric and the amount and manner of fluid
impact energy applied to the fabric.
4. As this process is not involved with any chemical, it is pollution free.
Laser technology
1. It is a computer controlled process for denim fading.
2. This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots, images,
text or even pictures.
3. It is water free fading of denim.
4. Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim.
5. Also called spray painting in denims.
6. •This technique has relatively high cost.
49. Super stone wash
It is type of wash treatment of denim garments in which the denim garments is subjected
to prolonged stonewash treatment for more than six hours. Soda ash and soap are used for
hard wash. Steam is used up to 60-800C for one hour to finish the washing process. It is
followed by acetic acid wash treatment and then the garments are neutralized and rinsed.
Ice wash
1. Ice washing in denim fabrics is done to remove more than half the dye during
washing
Thermo-denim
1. Also called double denim. A lightweight fabric (either plain, fancy or colored) is
glued to the denim. The glue comes off after washing and the trousers look like
they've been lined
Vintage
1. Applies heavy stonewashing or a cellulose enzyme wash, with or without bleach
2. Gives an old and worn look
50. DRY WASHING SECTION
Dry wash: Dry wash is mainly done by mechanically or by hand. Different process of dry
wash is described below-
52. Scraping: Removing color from the surface of denim is called scraping.
Features:
• This process is done before wet washing of the garment.
• Fabric is scrapped with different tools in order to get an used effect.
• All scraping processes are done manually, so it is difficult to achieve consistent
finishes every time.
Types:
1. Sand blasting: Compressed air guns shoot sand forcibly onto desired area of jeans
to create abrasion.
2. Hand sand: Abrasion of the fabric surface is done with sand paper. This process is
done by hand.
3. Hand sand all over: Scraping is done all over the garment by sandpaper.
4. Laser scraping: Laser machine is used to get the effect. This process is very
expensive.
5. Central crease mark: Jeans is folded and then scraping is done by ironing with
temperature and pressure or by sand paper.
6. Crimping: Fabric is crimped then ironed with high temperature and pressure to
create crease marks.
7. Pocket mark: scraping is done to make the inside pocket visible
8. Side seam hand sand: Hand sand is applied on the side seam of the garment.
Scraping:
53. Spraying:
2) Spraying: Chemical is sprayed onto jeans by a spray gun. It is done for discoloration.
Types:
Spray PP (Potassium Permanganate): PP sprayed onto desired areas of jeans and PP
oxidizes indigo color. This can be done before or after wet washing. There are two
steps involved in this process.
Step 1: PP is sprayed onto jeans and dried then pink color appears.
Step 2: Neutralization is done after spraying to get final effect. Normally sodium
meta bisulphate is used as neutralizer.
Bleach Spray: Bleach solution is sprayed or rubbed onto desired areas of jeans.
Neutralization is done immediately after spraying. It provides more yellowish tone
than PP spray
Spray pigment color: Pigment color is sprayed on the upper parts to get a vintage and
muddy look. Jeans must be cured in order to fix the pigment and to have permanent
effect on jeans.
54. Resin color spray: A mixed solution of resin and pigment color is sprayed onto the garment.
It provides unique color and touch that dyeing can not give.
Resin dip: Full garment is dipped into a resin solution to produce coating effect on garment.
Resin color dip: Full garment is dipped into a resin solution mixed with pigment color. The
aim of resin color dip is to produce coating effect and unique color on garment.
Spraying:
55. Whiskers: This is also known as “Cats Whiskers” or “Moustaches”. These worn out
lines or effects generated by different methods are done mainly on hip and thigh
areas of jeans.
Types:
Whiskers: This is called “normal whiskers”. Effect is achieved with sand paper or sand
blasting.
Process:
1. This is done mainly with the help of sharp edge emery paper rolled on fine
wood stick or pasted on plastic material.
2. Before starting execution placements and pattern must be marked on
garments. Stencils can also be used for design.
PP spray whiskers or Pigment spray whiskers: Effect is achieved by spraying
potassium permanganate or pigment color. Usually done on top of sand paper
whiskers (normal whiskers) to highlight them. Shape or design can be achieved by
placing a stencil on jeans.
Whiskers:
56. Whiskers creases: Fabric is folded in many places and then scrapped o the surface.
3D Resin Whiskers: Resin is added after normal or PP spray whiskers to make the
effect permanent.
Process: Resin is sprayed all over or on local area of the garment with a spray gun.
Then whiskers are designed by folding the fabric. To get a permanent effect, garment
must be put into oven and dry at high temperature for 30 minutes.
Whiskers:
57. Tacking: Tacking is done by swift tag
machine. Garment is folded three, four or
five times and tacked or locked through
folds. Then the garment is washed and
dried. Permanent fold appears after removal
of tag pin. The inner of the fold is dark due
to less exposure of rubbing and chemicals.
Faded effect come on the folded parts.
Most favorite areas are waistband, bottom
hem, back pocket, back yoke and front
pocket corners.
Tacking:
58. Spots:
Types:
PP spot and bleach spot: Spots are created with PP (Potassium Permanganate) or
bleach solution. Process depends on the type of fabric.
Color spot: Spots are created with pigment color. Oven process (curing is needed
to fix permanently the pigment on the garment).
Silicon spot: Spots are created with silicon. It creates dirty or wet effect on the
garment.
SPOTS:
59. Rubbing: Rubbing is usually done in combination with spraying. This process
allows us to give more contrast and highlight some part of the garment, specially
on waistband or on top of tacking effect.
Rubbing:
Types:
Rub pigment: A sponge or piece of fabric is soaked
into the solution then rubbed on the garment.
Rub PP (Potassium Permanganate): Rubbing PP
gives more contrast effect than PP spray. Normally
PP is rubbed to highlight tacking effect.
Rub bleach: A sponge is soaked into bleach solution
then rubbed on the garment.
60. Damages: In order to achieve favorite vintage look, many damaging processes are
used.
Types:
Grinding: Mainly used on edges of the garment such as pocket edges and pocket
hems. This is done by running the edges against abrasion surface or stone to
achieve worn out effect. Normally pen type of stone tools are used for small
production. For large production, fixed grinding machines are used. In this
machine the operator rub the edges to rotating stone wheel to get the effect.
Damages:
Abrasion: This is done on desired areas of jeans by
pen type of stone tools. If the tool is driven warp wise,
weft will be visible. On the other hand if the tool is
driven weft wise, warp will be visible. As there is no
color contrast, it will not be as clearly visible as weft.
61. Hole: A hole is created on the garment with
cutter or other tools.
Scratching: Garment is scratched with sharp
tool. Scratching is normally done warp wise or
horizontally.
Needle effect/ cuts: Effect is created by
cutting the warp yarn by knife, so that weft
yarn becomes visible. Needle is also used to
tear out fiber warp wise.
Damages:
62. WET WASHING SECTION
Wet Wash: Wet wash is normally done by using different types of chemicals.
Different process of wet wash is described below-
64. Wash in hot water with detergent and softener
Rinse in plain water
Drying in tumble until it is 100% dry
Sodium can be added if we want more washed look. Depending on the type of fabric and
our desired washing effect we should adjust
The temperature of water
The amount of detergent or sodium
The length of time of wash
Effects:
Hot water, detergent or sodium will dissolve starch
Softener makes the fiber soft
Tumble drying makes the fabric more fluffy
Use: Casual shirts, pants (non denim), jacket.
Normal wash/ Garment wash:
WET WASHING SECTION
65. Silicon Wash:
Silicon wash is normally done on twill, denim, canvas etc.
Silicon wash provides high and durable softness, elastic and slippery handle.
It also helps ant pilling effects and dimensional stability.
Process:
1st Step: De sizing.
2nd Step: Washing with silicon
Recipe:
M: L = 1:8
Acetic acid = 0.6g/l
Softener = 1g/l
Silicon = 0.5g/l
Temperature = 40ºc
Time = 15-20 minutes
3rd Step: Hydro extracting to remove excess water.
4th Step: Drying in tumble dryer.
WET WASHING SECTION
Silicon Wash:
66. Over dye/Tinting:
• This is being done mostly on denim garments to give them another look.
Process:
• First denim garments are washed with stones so that the double needle seams,
pocket flaps and those areas exposed the most get washed down to light blue color
or white.
• Then dye is put into the tumble to dye the garment into the color we want. In this
process a coating of new color will come on the garment particularly where it has
been washed down to a light shade to create a different look.
• Normally reactive dye should be used for better color fixation.
WET WASHING SECTION
Over dye/Tinting:
67. Caustic Wash:
• This is applied to the garment made of pigment printed fabric.
• In case of fabric printing, we do caustic wash (i.e scouring) at first to clean up
fabric surface from greases and impurities then we do printing on fabric.
Conversely if we apply caustic wash in garment, we do pigment printing with
binder on fabric at first then we make garments with this fabric and then we wash
the garments with caustic and hot water. At this time about 30% of the printing
will be washed away together with the foreign materials, leaving about 70% of the
printing on the fabric making the design or stripe nice and soft.
• Special color fading effect is produced as well.
WET WASHING SECTION
Caustic Wash:
81. Throughout the decades, denim continued to gain a wider market. By the 1970s,
women were wearing denim as often as men, and denim skirts and dresses could be
found in numerous styles. In the 80s, designer jeans were the rage, and a style once
associated with the working class was updated for affluent yuppies. Though denim is
still considered a casual material, it is not usually worn for more formal occasions, it is
not unusual to see people sporting jeans at high end night clubs, and many designer
denim garments cost in the hundreds of US Dollars (USD). An American Fabrics
magazine predicted back in 1969 that denim would become a fashion statement for
many occasions when it said, "What has happened to denim in the last decade is
really a capsule of what happened to America. It has climbed the ladder of taste."
CONCLUSION: -
83. 1. Yarn Manufacturing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808
2. Fabric Manufacturing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605
3. Garments Manufacturing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-
Technology/472364799463126
3. Wet processing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404
4. Fashion-Design-and-Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and-
Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts
My Facebook Textile related Pages
http://www.textilelab.blogspot.com (Visit My Blog for more Info )