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SEWING THREADS
IN
APPAREL INDUSTRY
Presented by : Sandip Mukherjee

2. 1) History of sewing thread
2) Characteristics of sewing
thread
3) Types of sewing thread
4) Types of core-spun thread
5) Embroidery thread
6) Filament thread
7) Sewing problem
CONTENTS

3. •Sewing thread is first textile material
•25000 years ago sewing threads were made by rubbing and twisting the
long fur fibers pulled from animal skin.
•After that linen fibre was used as sewing thread.
•Soon silk thread also found their way into sewing operation.
•After this cotton thread also become very popular in almost every field.
•NOW THIS IS THE ERA OF PET/COTTON SEWING THREAD.
HISTORY OF SEWING THREAD

4. Sewability of sewing thread i.e. ability of thread
to produce a seam with min. no. of breakages &
least damage to fabric during sewing.
Thread performance in seam is the ability of
thread
to produce desired functional serviceability in a
desired seam.
Tensile strength of seam
SEI = ------------------------------------------ x 100
Fabric tensile strength
BASIC REQUIREMENT OF
SEWING THREAD

5. Characteristics of SewingCharacteristics of Sewing
ThreadThread
Tensile strengthTensile strength
Initial modulusInitial modulus
Abrasion resistanceAbrasion resistance
Frictional propertiesFrictional properties
Resistance to high tempResistance to high temp
Evenness with negligible faultsEvenness with negligible faults
ElongationElongation
ShrinkageShrinkage
Balanced structureBalanced structure

6. Types of sewing threadTypes of sewing thread
 Spun threadSpun thread
 Core spun threadCore spun thread
 Continuous filament threadContinuous filament thread
 Embroidery threadEmbroidery thread
 Technical threadTechnical thread

7. Types of spun threadTypes of spun thread
 Cotton threadCotton thread
 Linen threadLinen thread
 Silk threadSilk thread
 Spun synthetic threadSpun synthetic thread
 Spun blended sewing threadSpun blended sewing thread

8. Types of Core- spun ThreadsTypes of Core- spun Threads
 Polyester/cotton core spun ThreadPolyester/cotton core spun Thread
 Polyester/polyester core spun ThreadPolyester/polyester core spun Thread

9. Polyester/cotton core spunPolyester/cotton core spun
ThreadThread
Single core spun is produced by spinning aSingle core spun is produced by spinning a
sheath of cotton around a core of highsheath of cotton around a core of high
tenacity continuous polyester filaments.tenacity continuous polyester filaments.

10. Why PET/Cotton core spunWhy PET/Cotton core spun
thread ???thread ???
 Combines good sewability characteristic of cotton fibre & higherCombines good sewability characteristic of cotton fibre & higher
strength of continuous PET.strength of continuous PET.
 Superior strength to thread size ratio.Superior strength to thread size ratio.
 Finer thread gives fine seam appearance with excellent threadFiner thread gives fine seam appearance with excellent thread
 Cotton sheath makes thread resistant to heat even at higher temp.Cotton sheath makes thread resistant to heat even at higher temp.
 Being cotton wrapped PET/Cotton core spun thread facilitatesBeing cotton wrapped PET/Cotton core spun thread facilitates
excellent needle heat resistance during high-speed sewing.excellent needle heat resistance during high-speed sewing.
 Excellent stretchExcellent stretch
 Controlled elongation due to cotton sheath facilitates superiorControlled elongation due to cotton sheath facilitates superior
performance of thread during high-speed sewing operationsperformance of thread during high-speed sewing operations
resulting in minimum chances of seam slippage and skippedresulting in minimum chances of seam slippage and skipped
stitches.stitches.

11. Major characteristics ofMajor characteristics of
core spun threadscore spun threads
Ticket No.Ticket No. Avg. StrengthAvg. Strength
(grams)(grams)
Elongation (%)Elongation (%)
3636 45004500 16-2116-21
5050 29002900 16-2116-21
7575 19001900 14-2014-20

12. CONTINUOUS FILAMENTSCONTINUOUS FILAMENTS
THREADTHREAD
Manufacturing methods of continuousManufacturing methods of continuous
filaments yarnsfilaments yarns
Wet spinningWet spinning
Dry spinningDry spinning
Melt spinningMelt spinning

13. Types of filament threadsTypes of filament threads
Monofilaments threadsMonofilaments threads
Multi-filament threadsMulti-filament threads
Textured threadsTextured threads

14. ADVANTAGES of CONTINUOUSADVANTAGES of CONTINUOUS
MONOFILAMENTS THREADSMONOFILAMENTS THREADS
 Being transparent seam is invisible.Being transparent seam is invisible.
 Reduce downtime of rethreadingReduce downtime of rethreading
 Cost effectiveCost effective
 No need to maintain huge stock of threadNo need to maintain huge stock of thread

15. EMBROIDERY THREADEMBROIDERY THREAD
USE OF EMBROIDERY THREAD :-USE OF EMBROIDERY THREAD :-
 sarees & other ladies & gents dresssarees & other ladies & gents dress
 Woven garmentsWoven garments
 Knitted garmentsKnitted garments
 Leather goodsLeather goods
 LogoLogo

16. EMBROIDERY THREAD ISEMBROIDERY THREAD IS
AVAILABLE FORAVAILABLE FOR
 Hand embroideryHand embroidery
 Single head machineSingle head machine
 Multi head computerized embroideryMulti head computerized embroidery
machinemachine
 High speed multineedle computerizedHigh speed multineedle computerized
embroidery machineembroidery machine

17. TYPES OF EMBROIDERYTYPES OF EMBROIDERY
THREADTHREAD
 Cotton embroidery threadCotton embroidery thread
 Continuous filament threadContinuous filament thread
 Spun synthetic threadSpun synthetic thread
 Rayon embroidery threadRayon embroidery thread
 Metallic embroidery threadMetallic embroidery thread

18. SEWING PROBLEMSSEWING PROBLEMS
SOME OF THE COMMON SEWINGSOME OF THE COMMON SEWING
PROBLEMS ARE:-PROBLEMS ARE:-
 Needle thread breakageNeedle thread breakage
CAUSECAUSE
Excessive tension in needle threadExcessive tension in needle thread
REMEDYREMEDY
Use stronger thread or proper tensionUse stronger thread or proper tension

19. Unbalanced stitchingUnbalanced stitching
CAUSECAUSE
Differential fabric feedDifferential fabric feed
REMEDYREMEDY
Improve fabric feed mechanismImprove fabric feed mechanism

20. Staggered stitchingStaggered stitching
CAUSECAUSE
Vibration in needleVibration in needle
REMEDYREMEDY
Change appropriate needleChange appropriate needle

21. Skipped stitchesSkipped stitches
CAUSE
Failure of needle to enter in loopFailure of needle to enter in loop
REMEDY
Check needle alignment & timings

22. Bobbin thread breakageBobbin thread breakage
CAUSE
Sharp edges of bobbin case
REMEDY
Polish edges smoothly

23. SEWING DAMAGESEWING DAMAGE
 Sewing damage refers to damage toSewing damage refers to damage to
fabric caused by the sewing needles offabric caused by the sewing needles of
high-speed industrial machines.high-speed industrial machines.

24. Comparison of Sewing Threads type
Spun :
• Lower strength than filament
• Most Versatile – adaptable to a wide variety of machine adjustment
condition
• Less likely than filament thread to cause seam pucker
• Least costly
Filament :
• Higher strength than spun; permits use of finer thread without sacrifice of
seam strength
• Produces neatest seams, but careful machine adjustments necessary
• Greater possibility of seam pucker than with spun thread
• Less costly than core spun, but more costly than spun thread; textured
filament threads would be good for knits because they have additional
stretchability.

25. Core Spun :
• Combines the best features of filament & spun threads
• Especially useful in seaming durable press garment.
( Residual resins present in permanent press garments are absorbed by
the thread, causing strength loss and abrasion-resistance loss in the
cotton cover of the thread. The polyester core is unaffected by the resin,
thus providing continuing seam integrity.)
• Same seam puckering tendency as spun thread
• Most costly.

26. Thread Finishes and their uses
Type – Soft
Description – Natural cotton thread without finishes that appear somewhat
fuzzy. Small amount of lubricant sometimes added to improve sewability.
Sewing Properties & uses – Excellent sewability, lowest cost
Type – Mercerized
Description – Treated cotton thread that is stronger, more lustrous, more
stable (less stretch) than soft cotton thread. The finish reduces the thread
loop strength.
Sewing Properties & uses – Increased tensile strength, lustrous
appearance and brighter shades provide for better seams than soft threads
& costly.

27. Type – Glace
Description – Highly polished cotton thread that is difficult to unravel. The
polish and finish are usually obtained with waxes and starches.
Sewing Properties & uses – Strongest cotton thread. Rarely used in
apparel. Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, canvas goods, and
similar applications.
Type – Bonded
Description – Threads of manufactured fibres, both filament & spun. Waxes
& resins produce high polish, eliminate fuzz, bond together filament & plied
yarn, & impart smooth protective coating.
Sewing Properties & uses – Increased strength & sewability compared to
same thread unbonded. Apparel usage largely in heavyweight and coated
fabric sewing. Mainly used for manufacture of shoes, luggage, tents, and
other heavy duty appliance.

28. THANKS