Fabric finishing involves any operations after weaving or knitting to improve a fabric's appearance and usefulness. There are two main categories of finishes: chemical and mechanical. Chemical finishes include resin finishes for wrinkle resistance, softeners, soil release finishes, and flame retardants. Mechanical finishes include heatsetting, raising the fabric surface, shearing, calendering, and sanforizing. The document provides details on the types and purposes of various chemical and mechanical fabric finishing processes.

1. Fabric Finishing
Definition
Any operation (otherthan preparation and coloring)that improves the
appearance and/or usefulness of fabric afterit leaves the loom or
knittingmachine.
Terms Used to Categorize Finishes
Chemical
Mechanical
Wet
Dry
Durable
Non-durable

2. Chemical Finishes
Resin Finishes (’PermanentPress’?
k Used on cotton or rayon
B. Keeps fabric smooth afterwashing and drying with little or no
ironing needed
C. Improves shrinkage control
D. Reduces fabric strength
E. May have odor problem
F. All resins contain formaldehyde
II. So-fieners
k Generally used with resins to improve the way the fabric feels
B. May cause fastnessproblems
C. May cause yellowing or odor problems
I& Soil Release Finishes
A. Used extensivelyon carpets and upholstery fabrics
B. Also used on apparel fabrics, especially those
containing polyester
C. Very durableif applied at the finishingplant; little durability
if applied by the consumer

3. I
A. Three main types:
1. Wax finish
2. Siliconefinish
3. Fluorhefinish
-V. FZame Retardant
k Very important finish,especiallyfor children’ssleepwear
B. Canbe accomplishedby using special fibertypes orby applying
special chemical finishes
16-4 FabticFlninshing

4. Mechanical Finishing
Heatsetting
A. Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing
polyester, nylon, or triacetate
B. Not effective on cotton or rayon
C. May be performed in fabric form or garment form
D. May cause shadevariation from side-to-sideif done prior to
dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing
Raising
k Twomaintypes
1. Napping
a. Using wire-covered rolls to "digout"individual fiber ends
to the surface
2. Sueding
a. Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.)
to produce shorterpile surface -does cause an apparent
shade change
b. Special type of raised surface fabricis corduroy
III.Shearing
A. Use of rotary blade(s)to trim raised surfaces, particularly
napped fabrics,to a uniform height
B. This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also
reduces the pilling tendency
C. Specialtypes of blades and conveyerbelts can produce pattern
-- effectson the surface

5. Other Mechanical Finishes
k Calendering
B. Decating
C. Sanforizing("CompressiveShrinkage")

7. 1.
REFERENCE BOOK LIST FOR TEXTILES
Joseph’s Introductory Textile Science - Sixth Edition, Peyton Hudson, Anne
Clapp, and Dianne Kness; Harcourt, Brace and Jovanovich, 1993. Available
from NCSU Bookstores (919-515-2161). Approximately $48 hardbound.
2. Dictionaw of Fiber & Textile Technology ,Hoechst Celanese 1978.Available
from Hoechst Celanese (704-554-3081). Approximately $7 softbound.
3. Weaving: Conversion of Yarn to Fabric, P. R. Lord and M. H. Mohammed;
Merrow Technical Library, 1973. Availablefrom NCSU Bookstores (919-
515-2161). Approximately $40 softbound.
4. Knitting- Technology, David Spencer;Pergammon Press, 1991. Available from
NCSU Bookstores (919-515-2161). Approximately$40 softbound.
5. The Dyeing of Cellulosic Fibres, Cliff Preston, Dyers’ Company Publications
Trust, 1986. Available from AATCC (919-549-8141). Approximately $50
softbound.
6. Basics of Dyeing and Finishing; Includes Dyeing Primer, 1993.Available from
AATCC (919-549-8141). Approximately $45 softbound.
7. Guide to Apparel Manufacturing,Peyton Hudson, 1989. Available from
1/93
--
NCSU Bookstores (919-515-2161). Approximately $48 softbound.