[NOTE: Slides not synchronised to audio - download the slides as PDF and click through while you listen to the audio! Email me if you know a better solution...] Why does rye bite your ass off? Are grain neutral spirits really neutral? What happens when you add botanicals to grain spirits? Or a flavour? Or stick them in a barrel? Join Irishman Philip Duff for a rollicking mega-tasting ride through the history, flavours, laws and practises of grain based spirits, from genever in the Low Countries to English gin to whiskey, liqueurs and the most international spirit around, vodka.

1. Going Against The Grain:
Grains, Distilling & Grain Spirits
by
Philip Duff
25 February, 2012

2. Going Against The Grain
What?

3. Going Against The Grain
What?
– Grasses (Family Graminae)

4. Going Against The Grain
What?
– Grasses (Family Graminae)
– Cereals (Types of Grasses)

5. Going Against The Grain
What?
– Grasses (Family Graminae)
– Cereals (Types of Grasses)
- Grains (fruits of Cereals)

6. Global Grain Production
900
Going Against The Grain 2007
800
700
What?
600
500 Metric tons (millions)
400
300
200
100
0
Corn (Maize) Rice Wheat Barley Sorghum Millet Oats Rye Triticale Buckwheat

7. Going Against The Grain
What?
– Hull / husk (barley, Oats)
– Bran (Pericarp & Aleurone)
- Endosperm
- Germ

8. Going Against The Grain
What?
Corn (Maize)
– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago

9. Going Against The Grain
What?
Corn (Maize)
– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago
– Colombus brought to Europe

10. Going Against The Grain
What?
Corn (Maize)
– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago
– Colombus brought to Europe
- Most widely cultivated grain

11. Going Against The Grain
What?
Corn (Maize)
– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago
– Colombus brought to Europe
- Most widely cultivated grain
- US Subsidies: Feed, HFCS, Ethanol

12. Going Against The Grain
What?
Corn (Maize)
– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago
– Colombus brought to Europe
- Most widely cultivated grain
- US Subsidies: Feed, HFCS, Ethanol
- American Whiskey!

13. Going Against The Grain
What?
Corn (Maize)
– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago
– Colombus brought to Europe
- Most widely cultivated grain
- US Subsidies: Feed, HFCS, Ethanol
- American Whiskey!
- Nixtamalization!

14. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago

15. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago
– Diploid: Einkorn

16. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago
– Diploid: Einkorn
- Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro)

17. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago
– Diploid: Einkorn
- Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro)
Durum (Pastas, 1 Un-hulled Wheat)
st

18. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago
– Diploid: Einkorn
- Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro)
Durum (Pastas, 1 Un-hulled Wheat)
st
- Hexaploid: Modern Bread Wheats

19. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago
– Diploid: Einkorn
- Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro)
Durum (Pastas, 1 Un-hulled Wheat)
st
- Hexaploid: Modern Bread Wheats
- Winter Wheat: Less/No Pesticides

20. Going Against The Grain
What?
Wheat
– Near east,12-14,000 yrs ago

21. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia

22. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich

23. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt

24. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum –
(barley)

25. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge -
(barley) (barley)

26. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé –
(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)

27. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat
(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)
- Spain:

28. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat
(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)
- Spain: Orgeat –

29. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat
(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)
- Spain: Orgeat – Horchata (tiger/chufa nuts)

30. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat
(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)
- Spain: Orgeat – Horchata (tiger/chufa nuts)
- Tisanes, Robinsons' Barley water

31. Going Against The Grain
What?
Barley
– SW Asia
– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich
- 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt
- France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat
(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)
- Spain: Orgeat – Horchata (tiger/chufa nuts)
- Tisanes, Robinsons' Barley water

32. Going Against The Grain
What?
Other Grains
– Oats: Irish, Genever, Etc.
– Millet, Fonio, Sorghum
- Triticale: Rye/Wheat cross (1800s)
- Non-Cereals: Amaranth (Herb)
Quinoa (Beet/spinach)
Buckwheat (Rhubarb/Sorrel)

33. Going Against The Grain
What?
Breakfast!
– The Kelloggs, 1906

34. Going Against The Grain
What?
Breakfast!
– The Kelloggs, 1906

35. Going Against The Grain
What?
Breakfast!
– The Kelloggs, 1906

36. Going Against The Grain
What?
Breakfast!
– The Kelloggs, 1906

37. Going Against The Grain
How?
Distilling
Step 1: Ferment Beer - Cereal
Yeast
Water
Optional: Flavourings
900AD: Hops

38. Going Against The Grain
How?
Distilling
Step 1: Ferment Beer
Step 2: Distill Beer (To Concentrate The Alcohol)
Cook It or Freeze It
Remove The Flaws
Enjoy!

39. Going Against The Grain
How?
Distilling
The Pot Still

40. Going Against The Grain
How?
Distilling
What Affects Flavour? Type Grain(s) & How Malted
Type yeast & Length Ferment
Duration & Alc.% Distillation
Type & Extent Filtering
Time (if any) & Type Barrel(s)

41. Going Against The Grain
When?
The Evolution of Spirits

42. Going Against The Grain
When?
589, St. Colombanus,
Ireland
“serve about the ale which is
bruised from the juice of
wheat and barley”

43. Going Against The Grain
When?
1169, The Normans,
Ireland
Vintners!
Aqua vite (water of the vine)
vs
Aqua Vitae (water of life)
=uisce beatha (idem)

44. Going Against The Grain
When?
1269, Der Naturen Bloeme,
Holland
“He who has cramps
Cook juniper in wine
It's good against the pain"

45. Going Against The Grain
When?
1494,
Scotland
“Eight bolls of malt to
Friar John Cor
wherewith to make
aqua vitae"

46. Going Against The Grain
When?
1495, The Sloane Manuscripts
Holland
“Making Burned Wine”
Lees-distilled wine
With Botanicals

47. Going Against The Grain
When?
1556, Ireland
Act of Parliament:
“The consumption of graine in
making of aqua vitae, and that
it is not Profitable to be daily
drunk and used is now universally
through the realm of Ireland”

48. Going Against The Grain
When?
1582, A Guide To Distilling,
Holland (& Europe)
[distilled grain spirit]...
“in aroma and taste is
Almost the same as brandy-wine”
and is
“not only named brandywine but also
drunk and paid for as brandywine”

49. Going Against The Grain
When?
1640, First Distillery,
USA

50. Going Against The Grain
When?
1689 - 1751
England
The Gin Craze
&
The Gin-Ocracy

51. Going Against The Grain
When?
1689 - 1751
England
The Gin Craze
&
The Gin-Ocracy

52. Going Against The Grain
When?
1689 - 1751
England
The Gin Craze
&
The Gin-Ocracy

53. Going Against The Grain
When?
1689 - 1751
England
The Gin Craze
&
The Gin-Ocracy

54. Going Against The Grain
When?
1750
Ireland
Dr. Johnson, Lexicographer
Whiskey is:
“Particularly distinguished for it's
pleasant and mild spirit...
It is a compounded, distilled spirit,
being drawn on aromatiks”.

55. Going Against The Grain
When?
1779 - 1823
Ireland
Shallow-Still Output
&
The Rectifiers

56. Going Against The Grain
When?
1830
Ireland
Aenaes Coffey Invents
The Continual Still
(1848:
Corn Laws Repealed)

57. Going Against The Grain
How?
Distilling
The Pot Still

58. Going Against The Grain
How?
Distilling
The Coffey/
Patent/
Continual
Still

59. Going Against The Grain
When?
1853
Scotland
Andrew Usher invents
Blended Whisky

60. Going Against The Grain
When?
1860
France
Phylloxera

61. Going Against The Grain
When?
1877
Scotland
The Distiller's
Company Limited (DCL)

62. Going Against The Grain
When?
1894
Russia
Mendeleev
“Pure” Vodka
(state subsidised also)

63. Going Against The Grain
When?
1920
America
Prohibition

64. Going Against The Grain
When?
1860s Russia
&
1940s USA
The Smirnovs

65. Going Against The Grain
When?
1860s Russia
&
1940s USA
The Smirnovs

66. Going Against The Grain
When?
1963
Scotland
Single Malt Sold
Outside Scotland
For the First Time

67. Going Against The Grain
When?
1965
America
Singles Bars

68. Going Against The Grain
When?
1967?
America
Bond,
Russia
And the Rise
of
Vodka

69. Going Against The Grain
When?
1979
America
Vodka
As A
Fashion
Brand
(And Modern Flavoured Vodkas)

70. Going Against The Grain
When?
1997
USA
Super Premium
Goes Bananas

71. Going Against The Grain
When?
2008
The European Union
EU 110 / 2008

72. Going Against The Grain
When?
2008
Scotland, USA
The Return
Of the
White Dog

73. Going Against The Grain
When?
2011
Globally
Half The World's
Best-selling spirits
Are grain based

74. Going Against The Grain
When?
2011
Globally
Half The World's
Best-selling spirits
Are grain based

75. Going Against The Grain
When?

76. Going Against The Grain
When?

77. Going Against The Grain
Thank you for your attention!
More?
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philip @ liquidsolutions . org
@philipduff