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Bangladesh University of Textiles
Presentation on
Fashion City Tokyo
Shah Md. Maruf Hasan
Lecturer (Apparel Engineering)
Bangladesh University of
Textiles
Md. Shahjalal
Lecturer (Textile Engineering)
Northern University
Bangladesh
Farhana Yeasmin Mumu
Asst. Merchandiser
Renaissance Group
Introduction
The fashion and culture research institute "ACROSS" stood on the streets of
Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku on August 9, 1980. Since then, every first
Saturday at the same time, we have been observing each city, people,
fashion, and measure the number of passersby and fashion trend items,
interview carefully. Our concept is the “street fashion marketing”, it is based
on an approach called “cultural studies” from the academia back ground.
And, its method of the observation we named “Teiten Kansoku (Fixed point
observation)”. This is a documentary with a realistic image of Tokyo's 37
years of young people.
Japanese Fashion Through the Eras:
From Heian to Heisei
Pre 1600: Kimono Edo: 1603-1868
Meiji: 1868-1912 Taisho: 1912-1926
Showa: 1926-1989 Heisei: 1989-2019
1980 - 1989
The 1970s was the first time that young
people embraced a sense of communal
solidarity as a generation and joined
together in opposition to adults. The
decade marked the start of street fashion in
Japan, and the latter half of the 1970s was
a time when young people renounced the
values of earlier generations and took a
confrontational stance towards them,
advocating new styles
Yokohama Trad Style/Hama Tora
1980
The elegance fashion that started in Kobe
in the latter half of the 1970s comes into
vogue in the 1980s as a more casual style,
particularly in the Yokohama area. This
becomes a widespread trend after being
featured as hamatora (Yokohama
traditional) in JJ magazine.
Yokohama Trad Style/Hama Tora (1980) ACROSS
Japanese Preppy 1981
As joshi daisei (college girl) fashion takes
Japan by storm, trad fashion derived from
elite school uniforms becomes popular
among male university students, featuring
blazers and cardigans adorned with
emblems, button-down shirts, and loafers.
It becomes widespread as Preppy fashion.
Fig. Japanese Preppy 1 (1981)
Crow Tribe/Karasu zoku 1982
The karasu-zoku (crow tribe) style, in which women
dress all in black from head to toe, comes into
fashion. The heyday of the DC brand (DC stands for
“designer” and “character”) arrives. Rei Kawakubo
and Yohji Yamamoto debut their Paris collections,
and publications by Magazine House, such as anan
and POPEYE, become very popular.
Fig.Crow Tribe/Karasu zoku (1982) ACROSS
New Wave 1983
Music and fashion shift to new wave. With the
end of the punk boom, music and fashion move
into the new wave era. Fashion that expresses
the essence of music becomes popular.
New Wave (1983) ACROSS
Olive Girl by Pinkhouse 1984
At an early stage in the trend, otome
(maiden/young lady) fashion was a hit
in1984, characterized by voluminous clothes
with details like large collars, frills, and
ribbons, and red, pink, and white colors.
Olive Girl by Pinkhouse (1984) by Isao Kaneko ACROSS
Character Fashion / Chekkers 1985
The 1980s is the heyday for ‘idols.’
Beginning with the Seiko-chan cut,
based on the hairstyle of pop star Seiko
Matsuda, it becomes all the rage for
teenagers to imitate the hairstyles and
fashions of singers and entertainers.
Character Fashion / Chekkers (1985) ACROSS
Olive Girl 1986
Around this time, Olive magazine becomes
the teenage fashion bible, Parisienne fashion
and lifestyle are admired, and the scope of
fashion broadens to incorporate things like
handmade and second hand clothing, lifestyle
goods and accessories.
Olive Girl (1986) ACROSS
One-length cut & body conscious one piece
1987
As a reaction to the DC brand boom,
many women adopt a style with a sexy
appeal boasting one-length haircuts and
body-conscious clothing.
One-length cut & body conscious one piece (1987) ACROSS
JJ sophis 1988
In the latter half of the 1980s, the
joshi daisei fashion nurtured by JJ
magazine evolves into an adult
women’s fashion. Popular brands
include Junko Shimada, MOGA,
Zelda, Ingeborg, Chanel, and Louis
Vuitton.
JJ sophis (1988) ACROSS
Shibuya casual style 2 (1990) ACROSS
The era shifts from asking what to wear to
asking how to wear it. Simple styles with
shirts and denim are favored, together
with brand bags and scarves to add a high-
quality touch. The idea that fashion is
about coordinating becomes widespread
on the street.
Shibuya casual style 2 (1990) ACROSS
Fashion style 1990 - 1999
Around 1990, Shibuya Casual comes into
fashion mainly among high school students
in the Shibuya area and college students
based on the influence of the Yamanote
fashion, which began as a Japanese
interpretation of BCBG.
Fashion style1990 - 1999
Paragal 1992
The paragal (paradise girl) trend appears, a precursor
to the future kogyaru boom, adopting LA-style resort
casual styles as an expression of femininity. JJ
magazine coins the term paragal to suggest that
“every day is paradise.
Paragal 1992
Femmi 01 1994
Partially influenced by club music, 1970s-
style fashions become popular. The number of
second hand clothing stores rises throughout
Japan, and an increasing number of young
people get hooked on accessories like
newsboy hats, berets, round-toe odeko shoes,
and scarves.
Femmi o1 1994
Urahara 1995
In 1993, due to the opening of the select shop
NOWHERE by GOODENOUGH (Hiroshi
Fujiwara), A Bathing Ape (Nigo), and
UNDERCOVER (Jun Takahashi) in the quiet,
residential backstreets of Harajuku, many young
men begin to call this neighborhood “Ura-
Harajuku
Urahara 1995
Shinoler kawaii 1996
Tomoe Shinohara, a celebrity
sporting bright colors, details, and a
high-strung personality, whose debut
album is produced by Denki Groove
member Takkyu Ishino, becomes a
smash hit among teenagers.
Ganguro gal 1999
The ganguro gal style spreads from
Shibuya to regional areas. Some
kogyaru evolve into ganguro gals.
A style incorporating wigs, false
eyelashes, and tanned skin spreads
out from Shibuya’s Center Gai
shopping street to regional Japan.
Fashion 2000 - 2009
The changes in the 2000s, when street fashion is marked by trends bolstered by groups
transcending generational barriers. The GAP and Uniqlo open in central Tokyo,
clearing the way for clothes that are cheap but still reasonably fashionable, which
results in a change to the baseline for clothes to be considered adequate or acceptable.
Unisex Kawaii 2000
In 2000, the number of girls dressing in a
unisex fashion increases suddenly, a
subcategory of the kogyaru style, which
could be described as ura harajuku kei
joshi (backstreet Harajuku style girls),
wearing skinny jeans and the same kinds
of T-shirts as their boyfriends. The first
issue of the magazine, mini, comes out,
and a boys kawaii trend takes off.
Sports mix Kawaiii 2002
A casual, unisex fashion retaining
feminine hairstyles and makeup goes
mainstream.
Select_kei 2004
The Jinnan area of Shibuya, where a
series of select shops, mixed-brand
boutiques, opened around the year
2000, becomes a hotspot and a popular
place for young couples to stroll
around.
Hahako 2005
Mothers and daughters go shopping together.
Trends become age-independent. Around this
time, there’s a sudden increase in hahako
shopping, in which mothers and daughters
happily go shopping for casual clothes at
fashion complexes like Shibuya Parco and
Lumine.
Dior homme 2006
Hedi Slimane becoming creative director for Dior
Homme starting from 2001 A/W is big news for
men who like fashion. Coupled with the
popularity of TUNE magazine, which launched in
2004 (publication suspended in 2015), the
number of slim, stylish men in Harajuku rises
sharply.
BB2 / 40s 2007
The Shibuya Casual generation enters
their thirties, with an increasing
number getting married and having
children. The popular fashion is the
simple, joshitsu na futsu (high-quality
normal), creating new standards that
prioritize material and texture.
Fast fashion 2008
With fast fashion retailers such as H&M and
TOP SHOP opening in Japan, it becomes easy
for anyone to acquire trending fashions, and the
number of visibly ‘fashionable’ people grows.
Mori girl & boy 2009
Unconventional fashions that spread through
social networks and street photography
appear. Social networks become
commonplace, turning street photography
into community media. Chain reactions
occur among people with distinctive tastes,
and audacious styles spread, particularly
among trend-sensitive vocational school
students.
Bike trend 2010
Since the 2000s, the Shibuya area of Tokyo experiences an
expansion of people, stores, and flow of information
towards the northwest part of the area, such as Tomigaya,
Kamiyama-cho, and Uehara. Cycling is the device that
facilitates this expansion, evolving from a hobby and health
trend into a lifestyle, and influencing fashion as well.
Cosplay 2012
The shinjinrui junior generation (younger new breed
generation) born in the 1990s brings a cosplay approach to
fashion, and takes over the leading role in street style. With
cosplay style becoming common, people are changing
their hairstyles and makeup, as well as their fashion, on a
daily basis.
City boy 2013
Abandoning the previous mainstream approach of describing
how to be appealing in the eyes of others, the editorial
approach changes to emphasizing one’s own perspective—
studying everything from the background and quality of
items to dressing and comfort, and learning for yourself
instead of learning from adults (older generations).
Japanologist 2014
The term “inbound” comes into frequent usage to
describe visitors to Japan since more than 10 million
people visit the country in 2013, and the nation sees
an increasing number of exchange students and
foreigners staying long-term or visiting frequently.
Super mix 2015
The 2010s are now producing even more
mixing of styles, becoming a time when
trends can’t be bundled together and
expressed as a coherent concept with a
single name. This contrasts with the earlier
periods, when the names of trends
symbolized a relationship between fashion
and lifestyle.
Retro, classic 2016
The Millennium generation, born in the
first decade of the twenty-first century,
comes to play the main role in street
fashion, and an increasing number of
young people admire fashions and
designs from the Showa Era (1926–
1989), now considered vintage. Fashion
with retro colors and motifs comes into
vogue.
FASHION WORLD TOKYO 2020
FASHION WORLD TOKYO is Japan's largest fashion trade show which
consists of 6 specialised show, held twice a year. Not only as the best
gateway to the Japanese market, FASHION WORLD TOKYO is also
growing to serve as a new Asian hub for the fashion.
Special Highlight on Sustainable product
“Sustainable”, it is sure that this strong key word is getting more attention in
the fashion industry”
Designers' Gate
50 Japanese emerging designers will showcase their latest fashion products.
Unique and sophisticated products from fashion wear to fashion accessories!
High Functional Textiles/Fabrics
Made in Japan Fair
“Made in Japan” is well-known as its quality with Japanese craftsmanship
and uniqueness”
Hiroko Koshino
Japan (1937-Present)
Hiroko Koshino
• Hiroko Koshino is the founder and inspirational core of women's ready to wear clothing.
• Being a top fashion designer for over 60 years, the designer says, "people in the fashion
world always look ahead, and I would like to be an unpretentious fashion designer,
expressing what I feel from the heart.
• Won Nippon Designers Club's best designer award, while studying at the Bunka Fashion
College, Tokyo-1957
• Opened an haute couture atelier in Shinsaibashi, Osaka.-1964
• Appointed as the honorary director of KOBE FASHION MUSEUM.-2018
• Held an exhibition titled “A Touch of BAUHAUS” at White Box in New York.
References
https://www.tokyoweekender.com/2019/05/japanese-fashion-eras-heian-heisei/
https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/tokyo-street-fashion-and-culture
https://patch.com/california/los-angeles/history-womens-fashion?fbclid
http://www.laalmanac.com/economy/ec703.php?fbclid
https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/usa/california/articles/15-la-fashion-
designers-you-should-know/
https://www.fashion-tokyo.jp/en-gb.html
https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/usa/california/articles/15-la-fashion-
designers-you-should-know/

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  • 1. Bangladesh University of Textiles Presentation on Fashion City Tokyo
  • 2. Shah Md. Maruf Hasan Lecturer (Apparel Engineering) Bangladesh University of Textiles Md. Shahjalal Lecturer (Textile Engineering) Northern University Bangladesh Farhana Yeasmin Mumu Asst. Merchandiser Renaissance Group
  • 3. Introduction The fashion and culture research institute "ACROSS" stood on the streets of Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku on August 9, 1980. Since then, every first Saturday at the same time, we have been observing each city, people, fashion, and measure the number of passersby and fashion trend items, interview carefully. Our concept is the “street fashion marketing”, it is based on an approach called “cultural studies” from the academia back ground. And, its method of the observation we named “Teiten Kansoku (Fixed point observation)”. This is a documentary with a realistic image of Tokyo's 37 years of young people.
  • 4.
  • 5. Japanese Fashion Through the Eras: From Heian to Heisei Pre 1600: Kimono Edo: 1603-1868
  • 8. 1980 - 1989 The 1970s was the first time that young people embraced a sense of communal solidarity as a generation and joined together in opposition to adults. The decade marked the start of street fashion in Japan, and the latter half of the 1970s was a time when young people renounced the values of earlier generations and took a confrontational stance towards them, advocating new styles
  • 9. Yokohama Trad Style/Hama Tora 1980 The elegance fashion that started in Kobe in the latter half of the 1970s comes into vogue in the 1980s as a more casual style, particularly in the Yokohama area. This becomes a widespread trend after being featured as hamatora (Yokohama traditional) in JJ magazine. Yokohama Trad Style/Hama Tora (1980) ACROSS
  • 10. Japanese Preppy 1981 As joshi daisei (college girl) fashion takes Japan by storm, trad fashion derived from elite school uniforms becomes popular among male university students, featuring blazers and cardigans adorned with emblems, button-down shirts, and loafers. It becomes widespread as Preppy fashion. Fig. Japanese Preppy 1 (1981)
  • 11. Crow Tribe/Karasu zoku 1982 The karasu-zoku (crow tribe) style, in which women dress all in black from head to toe, comes into fashion. The heyday of the DC brand (DC stands for “designer” and “character”) arrives. Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto debut their Paris collections, and publications by Magazine House, such as anan and POPEYE, become very popular. Fig.Crow Tribe/Karasu zoku (1982) ACROSS
  • 12. New Wave 1983 Music and fashion shift to new wave. With the end of the punk boom, music and fashion move into the new wave era. Fashion that expresses the essence of music becomes popular. New Wave (1983) ACROSS
  • 13. Olive Girl by Pinkhouse 1984 At an early stage in the trend, otome (maiden/young lady) fashion was a hit in1984, characterized by voluminous clothes with details like large collars, frills, and ribbons, and red, pink, and white colors. Olive Girl by Pinkhouse (1984) by Isao Kaneko ACROSS
  • 14. Character Fashion / Chekkers 1985 The 1980s is the heyday for ‘idols.’ Beginning with the Seiko-chan cut, based on the hairstyle of pop star Seiko Matsuda, it becomes all the rage for teenagers to imitate the hairstyles and fashions of singers and entertainers. Character Fashion / Chekkers (1985) ACROSS
  • 15. Olive Girl 1986 Around this time, Olive magazine becomes the teenage fashion bible, Parisienne fashion and lifestyle are admired, and the scope of fashion broadens to incorporate things like handmade and second hand clothing, lifestyle goods and accessories. Olive Girl (1986) ACROSS
  • 16. One-length cut & body conscious one piece 1987 As a reaction to the DC brand boom, many women adopt a style with a sexy appeal boasting one-length haircuts and body-conscious clothing. One-length cut & body conscious one piece (1987) ACROSS
  • 17. JJ sophis 1988 In the latter half of the 1980s, the joshi daisei fashion nurtured by JJ magazine evolves into an adult women’s fashion. Popular brands include Junko Shimada, MOGA, Zelda, Ingeborg, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton. JJ sophis (1988) ACROSS
  • 18. Shibuya casual style 2 (1990) ACROSS The era shifts from asking what to wear to asking how to wear it. Simple styles with shirts and denim are favored, together with brand bags and scarves to add a high- quality touch. The idea that fashion is about coordinating becomes widespread on the street. Shibuya casual style 2 (1990) ACROSS
  • 19. Fashion style 1990 - 1999 Around 1990, Shibuya Casual comes into fashion mainly among high school students in the Shibuya area and college students based on the influence of the Yamanote fashion, which began as a Japanese interpretation of BCBG. Fashion style1990 - 1999
  • 20. Paragal 1992 The paragal (paradise girl) trend appears, a precursor to the future kogyaru boom, adopting LA-style resort casual styles as an expression of femininity. JJ magazine coins the term paragal to suggest that “every day is paradise. Paragal 1992
  • 21. Femmi 01 1994 Partially influenced by club music, 1970s- style fashions become popular. The number of second hand clothing stores rises throughout Japan, and an increasing number of young people get hooked on accessories like newsboy hats, berets, round-toe odeko shoes, and scarves. Femmi o1 1994
  • 22. Urahara 1995 In 1993, due to the opening of the select shop NOWHERE by GOODENOUGH (Hiroshi Fujiwara), A Bathing Ape (Nigo), and UNDERCOVER (Jun Takahashi) in the quiet, residential backstreets of Harajuku, many young men begin to call this neighborhood “Ura- Harajuku Urahara 1995
  • 23. Shinoler kawaii 1996 Tomoe Shinohara, a celebrity sporting bright colors, details, and a high-strung personality, whose debut album is produced by Denki Groove member Takkyu Ishino, becomes a smash hit among teenagers.
  • 24. Ganguro gal 1999 The ganguro gal style spreads from Shibuya to regional areas. Some kogyaru evolve into ganguro gals. A style incorporating wigs, false eyelashes, and tanned skin spreads out from Shibuya’s Center Gai shopping street to regional Japan.
  • 25. Fashion 2000 - 2009 The changes in the 2000s, when street fashion is marked by trends bolstered by groups transcending generational barriers. The GAP and Uniqlo open in central Tokyo, clearing the way for clothes that are cheap but still reasonably fashionable, which results in a change to the baseline for clothes to be considered adequate or acceptable.
  • 26. Unisex Kawaii 2000 In 2000, the number of girls dressing in a unisex fashion increases suddenly, a subcategory of the kogyaru style, which could be described as ura harajuku kei joshi (backstreet Harajuku style girls), wearing skinny jeans and the same kinds of T-shirts as their boyfriends. The first issue of the magazine, mini, comes out, and a boys kawaii trend takes off.
  • 27. Sports mix Kawaiii 2002 A casual, unisex fashion retaining feminine hairstyles and makeup goes mainstream.
  • 28. Select_kei 2004 The Jinnan area of Shibuya, where a series of select shops, mixed-brand boutiques, opened around the year 2000, becomes a hotspot and a popular place for young couples to stroll around.
  • 29. Hahako 2005 Mothers and daughters go shopping together. Trends become age-independent. Around this time, there’s a sudden increase in hahako shopping, in which mothers and daughters happily go shopping for casual clothes at fashion complexes like Shibuya Parco and Lumine.
  • 30. Dior homme 2006 Hedi Slimane becoming creative director for Dior Homme starting from 2001 A/W is big news for men who like fashion. Coupled with the popularity of TUNE magazine, which launched in 2004 (publication suspended in 2015), the number of slim, stylish men in Harajuku rises sharply.
  • 31. BB2 / 40s 2007 The Shibuya Casual generation enters their thirties, with an increasing number getting married and having children. The popular fashion is the simple, joshitsu na futsu (high-quality normal), creating new standards that prioritize material and texture.
  • 32. Fast fashion 2008 With fast fashion retailers such as H&M and TOP SHOP opening in Japan, it becomes easy for anyone to acquire trending fashions, and the number of visibly ‘fashionable’ people grows.
  • 33. Mori girl & boy 2009 Unconventional fashions that spread through social networks and street photography appear. Social networks become commonplace, turning street photography into community media. Chain reactions occur among people with distinctive tastes, and audacious styles spread, particularly among trend-sensitive vocational school students.
  • 34. Bike trend 2010 Since the 2000s, the Shibuya area of Tokyo experiences an expansion of people, stores, and flow of information towards the northwest part of the area, such as Tomigaya, Kamiyama-cho, and Uehara. Cycling is the device that facilitates this expansion, evolving from a hobby and health trend into a lifestyle, and influencing fashion as well.
  • 35. Cosplay 2012 The shinjinrui junior generation (younger new breed generation) born in the 1990s brings a cosplay approach to fashion, and takes over the leading role in street style. With cosplay style becoming common, people are changing their hairstyles and makeup, as well as their fashion, on a daily basis.
  • 36. City boy 2013 Abandoning the previous mainstream approach of describing how to be appealing in the eyes of others, the editorial approach changes to emphasizing one’s own perspective— studying everything from the background and quality of items to dressing and comfort, and learning for yourself instead of learning from adults (older generations).
  • 37. Japanologist 2014 The term “inbound” comes into frequent usage to describe visitors to Japan since more than 10 million people visit the country in 2013, and the nation sees an increasing number of exchange students and foreigners staying long-term or visiting frequently.
  • 38. Super mix 2015 The 2010s are now producing even more mixing of styles, becoming a time when trends can’t be bundled together and expressed as a coherent concept with a single name. This contrasts with the earlier periods, when the names of trends symbolized a relationship between fashion and lifestyle.
  • 39. Retro, classic 2016 The Millennium generation, born in the first decade of the twenty-first century, comes to play the main role in street fashion, and an increasing number of young people admire fashions and designs from the Showa Era (1926– 1989), now considered vintage. Fashion with retro colors and motifs comes into vogue.
  • 40. FASHION WORLD TOKYO 2020 FASHION WORLD TOKYO is Japan's largest fashion trade show which consists of 6 specialised show, held twice a year. Not only as the best gateway to the Japanese market, FASHION WORLD TOKYO is also growing to serve as a new Asian hub for the fashion.
  • 41. Special Highlight on Sustainable product “Sustainable”, it is sure that this strong key word is getting more attention in the fashion industry”
  • 42. Designers' Gate 50 Japanese emerging designers will showcase their latest fashion products. Unique and sophisticated products from fashion wear to fashion accessories!
  • 44. Made in Japan Fair “Made in Japan” is well-known as its quality with Japanese craftsmanship and uniqueness”
  • 46. Hiroko Koshino • Hiroko Koshino is the founder and inspirational core of women's ready to wear clothing. • Being a top fashion designer for over 60 years, the designer says, "people in the fashion world always look ahead, and I would like to be an unpretentious fashion designer, expressing what I feel from the heart. • Won Nippon Designers Club's best designer award, while studying at the Bunka Fashion College, Tokyo-1957 • Opened an haute couture atelier in Shinsaibashi, Osaka.-1964 • Appointed as the honorary director of KOBE FASHION MUSEUM.-2018 • Held an exhibition titled “A Touch of BAUHAUS” at White Box in New York.