1. FS10211: FASHION HISTORY 2
TEXT: CHAPTER 11: THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD: 1790–1820
LATE 18TH CENTURY (1790S)
• During French Reign of Terror • MEN: What did they dress like?
• Les lncroyables (M) (“incredible – Long disheveled hair (no powdered
ones”) wigs)
– English style, “anglophiles” – No triorne hats (more nondescript)
– Adapt the riding coat (tailored)
• Les Mervielleuse (W) (“marvelous • English were better tailors than the
ones”) French due to wool (heavier
– Neoclassical style material) vs. silk
– Breeches
– No more shoes, preferred boots
• +5 bonus points (Midterm) (clunky, square-toed)
– Find the connection for John • Not the streamline riding boot
Galliano’s Dior 84 inspiration of the • Tassel on the front “hessian”
Les Incroyables – “Pumps”—flat shoes for men
• Tuxedo pump
• James Madison is the 1st – Oversized carvats (not lacey)—
president to wear long pants tied/wrapped around the neck
higher
– Dolly Madison (wife) was inspired
by Josefine (Napoleon’s wife) – Walking stick “cane” (curved)

3. JOHN GALLIANO, “LES INCROYABLES” COLLECTION
http://designmuseum.org/desig http://www.fashioncollections.org/f
n/john-galliano ashion-designers/john-galliano/
• John Galliano has created the • His graduating collection was history
most spectacular fashion making. ‘Les Incroyables’, was inspired
by the French revolution, but as the
shows of our time. Since his world would all grow to know and love
1984 degree collection, Les about the fabulous designer, it had the
Incroyables, which ‘Galliano’ twist. This collection featured
never before seen details such as
metamorphosed his London upside down military jackets. This
art school into a French collection impressed so many and he
Revolutionary street scene, he was immediately put on the list of
young designers to watch and to watch
has transported his privileged out for. Joan Burstein, owner of
audiences to more exotic and Browns, loved this debut collection so
sartorially blessed places than much she purchased it in its entirety
they could possibly have and displayed it in the window of her
prestigious London boutique.
imagined or experienced.

4. JOHN GALLIANO, “LES INCROYABLES” COLLECTION
HTTP://FASHIONFIFTHAVENUE.BLOGSPOT.COM/2009/04/FASHION-IN-FLASHBACK-JOHN-GALLIANOS.HTML
• While it is common knowledge that Les Incroyables was John Galliano's graduation collection(shown in
July 1984), what is less known is the continued influence that the Incroyables had on all his subsequent
collections and more so on his next one namely "Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals".An
understanding of this collection cannot be made without dissecting the Incroyables, who they were, what
they stood for and why they were important to fashion.
• The French revolution and subsequent Reign of Terror that followed i.e a period from 1789 to 1799, led to
renunciation of all forms of elaborate and luxurious dressing, for fear of being executed as a sympathiser of
aristocracy.The men of the period clothed themselves in long jackets and leather boots(the style borrowed
from Britain) and the women in simple robes like long flowing tunics and gowns similar to one worn by
ancient Greeks.
• "Les Incroyables(theIncredibles) et les Merveilleuses(the Marvelous Women)" were a collective group of
young people known for their outlandish ways of dressing, who rose to prominence during the period of
the French Revolution after the Reign of Terror , their exaggerated and luxurious styles in response to the
sober sadness that the terror had spread.They were also called "muscadins" due to the enormous
quantities of musk perfume that they wore.It wasn't certain whether in dressing the way they did, they
mocked the royalty for their opulence or the bourgeois for their simplicity!! This is the exact disparity that
John Galliano had brought out in his "Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals", playfully dressing up his
modern Incroyables in what he thought the Afghans(or the East) would wear to mock the West!!
• The Incroyables dressed themselves in a cartoon version of the English country suit comprising of skin tight
pants, extremely short vests topped with a coat made so long its wide flared tails reached the ankles. The
coat sleeves were long enough to completely cover the hands and the lapels too were very large. The front
of the coat was cut to look uneven when buttoned and the back was bunched in folds. The coat's collar
stood up high at the back behind the head, and a huge cravat, or neck covering, was wrapped so high
around the neck that it covered the chin and mouth. The Incroyables powdered their hair, which was either
dressed in multiple braids or cut raggedly(like the guillotined victims), hanging long and shaggy on the
sides of their heads, in a style called "dog's ears" and cropped short at the back.

5. JOHN GALLIANO, “LES INCROYABLES” COLLECTION
HTTP://FASHIONFIFTHAVENUE.BLOGSPOT.COM/2009/04/FASHION-IN-FLASHBACK-JOHN-GALLIANOS.HTML

6. JOHN GALLIANO, “LES INCROYABLES” COLLECTION
HTTP://FASHIONFIFTHAVENUE.BLOGSPOT.COM/2009/04/FASHION-IN-FLASHBACK-JOHN-GALLIANOS.HTML

7. Women: How did they dress?
Late 18th Century
• Robe en chimise • Victim Bulls—people that
– Sheer muslin, requires no survived the revolution
corset, possible sash under – Chokers—red ribbon to
bosom commemorate the dead
– “empire” waistline • Empress of Fashion—
– Bare-legged and no heeled Josefine (Napoleon’s wife)
shoe
– Before: Marie Antoinette
• Wore sandals (Roman-
Greek inspired)
– Naturally curly hair, not
colored
– Jockey hats tied under the
chin

11. 1800-1820 Fashions
Empire(French) & Regency (English)
• Regency Period
– The in between time of newly
appointed king
• Men
– No more wigs, natural hair
– Bicorne hat (crescent)
• 2-cornered hat
• Usually by miitary
– Top hat
– Tailored cutaway
• Close to the body—with tails
– Trousers
– Pantaloon (fitting)
• Stirrup under instep of foot

12. Early 19th Century (Women)
• Simplified and streamline • Wet down muslin dresses
– Similar silhouettes – Clings to body and shows
• French—white muslin figure, exhibitionism
• English—delicate floral muslin – Resembled folds of statues
• Flat heelless sandals (Neoclassical style)
• Color of shawl – Caused sickness of upper
respiratory infections (“The Muslin
– Had basic motifs and patterns Disease”)
(paisley)
• Indian inspired • Accessories
– And the way the bow was tied – Loved to carry things around
• Little pouch “reticule” (handbag)
• Favorite fabric: Cashmere – Turbans/turban hats
– From Kashmir – Bonnets
– Goats are the main source until – Parasols
Napoleon got into war (difficult
trade) – Ostrich plumes
– Scotland—mountainous—goats— – Fan and gloves
copied paisley motif – Large muffs

13. Regency Period
• Fashion icon of the time: • “Beau” Brummell
“Beau” Brummell – Gloves “The Glover”
– The ultimate dandy – Carvat
– Witty and sarcastic – Black coat with bottle green
– Streamline fashion pantaloons/trousers
– Modern day “Metrosexual” – Navy jacket (cutaway) with
– Friends with the Prince and red waistcoat
attended parties to help men – No to wild colors
dress – Best tailors in London—he
– Hygiene—take milk baths hung out with the prince
• Lord Spencer • Men wore a sort-of corset
– Women adapted “the – “Man corset”
Spencer” (high-waisted
jacket)

14. “Beau” Brummell

15. MOVIE: THE YOUNG VICTORIA
HTTP://WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/WATCH?V=TTDNDRYOEHM

16. MOVIE: THE YOUNG VICTORIA
HTTP://WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/WATCH?V=TTDNDRYOEHM