1. OZON INTERNATIONAL | SUMMER 2010
ISSN 17923085
01>
te aser
9 7 7 1792 308001 THE CREATIVE CHAOS ISSUE
EUR 7€ , GBP 5£ , USD 12$ , CAD 11$ ,
AUD 9$, NZ 11$ , JPN 1050¥

2. INDEX
EDITORIAL...6/ BACKSTAGE...8/
UNFORGETTABLE...10/ OOPS, I DID IT AGAIN...11/
QUADRON...12/ THE MIXTAPE CLUB...13/ FREY
MUDD...14/ ALEX OLSON...15/ ALEXANDRA
VERSCHUEREN...16/ APICHATPONG
WEERASETHAKUL...18/ NEW ART SCENE...20/
CHAOS...22/ IT MIGHT SEEM LIKE A
CRUSH...24/ AUREL SCHMIDT...34/ LINDER
STERLING...36/ BUCHAREST BIENNALE...40/
BERLIN BIENNALE...42/ ROBB YOUNG...44/
FELDER FELDER...46/ KATIE EARY...48/ STEED
LORD...50/ FILEP MOTWARY...52/ OOPS, I DID IT
AGAIN...54/ GOT LOST IN THE GAME...64/ I AM
NOT THAT INNOCENT...74/ ORDER IS THE NEW
CHAOS...82/ NEW ART FOR THE PEOPLE...90/
YATZER...92/ AGGELIKI PAPOULIA...94/
DIGITARIA...96/ CACAO ROCKS...98/
BEAUTY...100/ NEW SEASON PREVIEWS...102/
P.L.US...104
OZON Digital Director Contributors Distribution
International Issue Aris Karatarakis | web@ozonweb.com Manolis Kranakis, Natasha Papachristou, Simos Michalopoulos | distribution@ozonweb.com
biannual publication International Coordinator Dafni Anesti, Maria Antelman, Manos Nomikos, Artville, Address
Publisher Janosch Boesche | international@ozonweb.com Vagelis Kamarakis,Yorgos Stamkopoulos, Alexandra Contempo Publications,
Yorgos Kelefis Fashion Department Petsetakis, Spilios Gianakopoulos, Janosch Boesche, 50-52 Valtetsiou St.,
Editor in Chief Marianthi Chatzikidi | fashion@ozonweb.com Oliver Arlt, Matthew Zorpas, George Nikas, Andreas 10681 Athens, Greece
Danai Dragonea | info@ozonweb.com Beauty Editor Dimopoulos, Helena Papadopoulos, Melisanthi Spei, T: +30 210 3634009,
Creative Art Director Maria Papadopoulou, London Panayiotis Fetsis, Lindsay West F: +30 210 3634008,
Panos Papanagiotou | art@ozonweb.com OZONWEB Content Manager Photographers E: info@ozonweb.com,
Advertising Director Vania Micha Jolijn Snijders, Costas Avgoulis, Cristina Capucci www.ozonweb.com
Efi Lymperopoulou | sales@ozonweb.com Editorial Intern Nikolas Ventourakis, Marios Kalamaris, Anouk Morgan, twitter.com/ozonmagazine
Marketing Director & Communications Kiriaki - Domenika Chandra Quentin de Briey, Ascari Luca, Jovanka Savic, Krzysiek myspace.com/ozonmagazine
Kika Kyriakakou | ad@ozonweb.com Fashion Interns Kozanowski, Nuria Rius, Jolijn Snijders, Yiorgos facebook.com/ozonmag
Direct Market Eftihia Kourousi / Eleni Malami Kaplanidis, Vicky Churchill
Simos Michalopoulos | simos@ozonweb.com Editorial Consultant English Adaptation ISSN: 17923085
Finance Manager Spyros Vlachos Pandora Giamalidou This magazine cannot be republished
Vasilis Sourtis or reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
COVER CREDITS PhotograPhy JoliJn SniJderS | Model Cole Mohr

4. 4
CHAOS
A USER’S GUIDE by Lindsay West
IT’S 00.17AM.
THIS ARTICLE IS DUE IN NINE HOURS TIME.
SEVEN, IF YOU TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE UK-GREECE TIME DIVIDE.
SEVEN HOURS.
SEVEN HOURS, LEVELING OUT AT ABOUT FOUR HUNDRED AND
TWENTY MINUTES OF PRIME WRITING TIME.
LESS, IF YOU ALSO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE SEVENTEEN MINUTES
I’M ROUNDING UP, AND THAT THE ARTICLE IS DUE AT NINE, NOT NINE
SEVENTEEN.
LESS TOO, IF YOU FACTOR IN SLEEP.
FOUR HUNDRED AND TWENTY NINE MINUTES, AND ALL I HAVE IS
A WHOLE HEAP OF SCRIBBLED NOTHING, ASSEMBLED ON A WHITE
BOARD AND A FLURRY OF POST- IT NOTES IN A VARIETY OF NEON
SHADES.
AND NOW IT’S 00.23.
THIS IS THE GAME.

5. 5
Millions before me have rolled these loaded dice and an infinite number after, in every field of innovation, composition, and creation, will pull up a chair at this same untidy table
and put all their cash on the promise of a brand new number coming up.
Musicians, artists, writers, inventors; the makers of things. These are the people who know that the quest to build something out of nothing is a journey not for the faint of heart or
the short of patience. It can be a lonely path to tread, when all you have is your weapon of choice – a blinking cursor, a lump of clay, a set of paints – and a whole universe stretching
out before you, filled with nothing but possibility and potential, for both success and failure.
Yes, for the creative person, the starting line is a place where all the words, subjects, brushstrokes, melodies, and answers in the world sit on the bench, primed and ready, just waiting
to be picked for the team. But who to choose? Which idea is the medal winner, the one that will take off and fly as soon as the starting pistol fires; and which is the out-of-shape
also-ran, the one that will run out of steam in the first lap? For, when they’re sitting on the sidelines together, untested and static, with every one of their relations (they rarely travel
alone); the sight of all of your creative ideas assembled can be a little overwhelming.
With this sort of agony seemingly in-built as standard, it’s little wonder therefore, that the creative person has, over the years, developed something of a reputation for chaos as an
immovable personality trait. The hapless artist who can’t clear their desk, or pay their taxes on time, but who can channel an idea and make a canvas sing: this is the picture postcard
of the chaotic creative.
And even if you’re allergic to oil paints and without the propensity for rampant alcoholism; anyone who has ever sat in front of a blank sheet of paper, charged with the task of filling
it up with something that does not yet exist, has surely caught a glimpse of it. This is the creator’s conundrum: somewhere amid the din is the symphony, but the challenge lies in
quietening down the clamour long enough to hear it.
Which leads me to the below: some words of comfort for those who seek to trawl through the creative mess, foraging for that hidden treasure. You see, my friends, when it comes
to creativity, chaos is not so much a given as a necessity in the quest for the new; it’s just a matter of knowing how to use it.
THE FIRST RULE OF CHAOS THEORY IS: THERE IS NO CHAOS
Time to break out the first of our big name guests: on the subject of creating his masterpieces, Michaelangelo is quoted as observing that, beneath every block of stone, lies a
sculpture. The sculptor’s task is merely to free it – to prune back the unneeded layers, and reveal something new.
That is to say, that song you can’t write, that flash of inspiration, and the breakthrough you’re looking for? It’s all there, underneath the chaos, the research, the distractions and
the procrastination, just waiting to get out. Physicists working with chaos theory maintain that perspective is the key to perceiving order, that there’s eventual order within apparent
randomness, and that chaos always moves towards pattern in the end. I’d like to posit this as proof that although, to the untrained eye, the debris on your desktop, the dishes in
your sink, and the screwed up paper in the bin might look like a grand old mess, it’s all process. A period of storm before the calm that will follow once the damn thing’s done…
REPEAT THE CHORUS AND THE VERSE WILL COME
Literature and art abounds with tales of gloriously well-trained practitioners who kept punishing, productive schedules and created great things. Reports of Vladimir Nabokov plotting
out his novels on catalogued index cards before beginning are widespread, but such precision is not exactly the norm in terms of creative experience. But chaos theory is also about
repetition leading eventually to a shift, so an element of ritual has a habit of creeping in to the process. Meaning both that those seven cups of coffee bought from the same store
before 9am, and those carefully mapped out index cards, may just be working towards the same end. The theory goes that if you go with the flow and follow your own process, in
whatever form it takes, and when you’ve repeated the chorus enough, a verse with brand new lyrics will appear.
THE STARTING STARTS BEFORE THE STARTING
All those notes, all those staring-at-the-wall hours, and all those YouTube procrastination trips? No, they didn’t amount to much in the way of finished product, but if you’re in the
throws of creative chaos, your brain is logging all the information as it goes. With the recon done, it’s now time for…
TIPPING OUT THE LEGO BOX
Radiohead, in discussing their newest, as yet unreleased album, told a newspaper that, in searching for their new sound, they metaphorically “got the big Lego box out…tipped it
out on the floor, and…were thinking, what next?” Once the pre-starting is through, and it’s time to start the real starting, tipping out the mental Lego box of all its findings is the
next step. It’s imperative to look the chaos in the eye, survey your properties on Post-Its, and swim through the mental toffee, in order to find something new. Leave nothing out,
look at it every thought you have in whatever form it comes, and the path will appear.
IT’S TORTURE.
Ever tried to make your own mosaic from scratch? It begins with smashing up a bunch of tiles – lovely, neat, intact tiles that were perfectly happy being square. But the creative
hand that wields the hammer is the one that says there’s another picture to be seen; if you can just stand the noise and the mess it takes to get to it. Order is a maintaining force,
chaos is innovative, and as old man Picasso said, the first step towards creation is destruction; and most often, destruction ain’t pretty. Destruction is discomfort, and it only begins to
feel better once the birth is over. Popular culture is littered with examples of creative people for whom the chaos of creation is quite simply torture. Dame Judi Dench has legendary,
agonizing stagefright, and Nick Cave has cited songwriting as “the most difficult thing I have to do,” and his creative, professional life as “the place I’m the most frightened.” The
real pros are the people who have made their peace with the fact that birth is a violent process, and breeding ideas is bound to hurt. So why do it? Quite simply, as well as being
torture…
IT’S MAGIC
The moment where the vague, far-away blur slowly floats or suddenly screeches into view and a shape appears; the point at which the night sky becomes a mass of constellations?
That’s the magic. Chaos theory tells us that just as being lost is a relative thing – as easily solved as simply turning the right corner – there’s shapes to be seen if you treat the creative
process like a Magic Eye poster: relax, give it time, stare into the mess, and the sailboat will appear. This is why we do it: this is the privilege. Making something out of nothing,
something new, something that didn’t exist when you started. Like newborn babies, when it’s sitting there in front of you – all perfect, new, and complete – if you’re lucky, you’ll
figure it’s worth the agony.

6. A chaotic afternoon in
Paris some days before
the menswear shows…
By JoliJn SniJderS
Featuring Cole Mohr

8. 8
AUREL SCHMIDT
WHAT RHYMES WITH CHAOS?
interview danai Alaska · Photography Mat Moravec
{ aurelschmidt.com }
aurel schMidt Master oF the universe FlexMaster 3000 aurel schMidt selF Portrait with various addictions and Fears oF ageing
AUREL SCHMIDT IS A 28-YEAR-OLD SELF-TAUGHT ARTIST WHO MOVED TO NEW YORK FROM CANADA IN 2005 AND
MADE HER BREAK THROUGH WHEN TWO OF HER PIECES WERE ACQUIRED BY COLLECTOR DAKIS IOANNOU. SINCE
THEN SHE INSISTS IN TRANSLATING INTO ART ALL THOSE THINGS THAT IN THE SURFACE MAKE US FEEL BAD BUT IN
REALITY IT’S HARD TO DO WITHOUT: CIGARETTE BUTTS STAINED WITH RED LIPSTICK, BEER BOTTLE CAPS, CONDOMS,
DONUTS COVERED IN COLOURFUL ICING, OVERSIZED SMILEY MALE GENITALIA. OVERDOSE WILL TEAR US APART, IN
AN ENDLESS BATTLEFIELD WHERE EVERYTHING SEEMS ABOUT TO EXPLODE. HER PARTICIPATION IN 2010 WHITNEY
BIENNIAL WAS WITH MASTER OF THE UNIVERSE: FLEXMASTER 3000, A PORTRAIT OF THE MINOTAUR BEAUTIFULLY
DECONSTRUCTED WITH EMPTY BEER CANS, MODERN ELECTRONIC DEVICES AND CIGARETTES RUNNING THROUGH
ITS VEINS. EVERY TIME I LOOK AT THIS PIECE I HOLD MYSELF FROM SCREAMING: “HEY YOU PUNKS, GET OUT OF THIS
NICE BODY!”, BUT THEN AGAIN MAYBE AUREL’S WORK IS NOT SUPPOSED TO PUT US SAFELY INTO BED MAKING US
FEEL AT EASE AND MAYBE THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT WE LIKE ABOUT IT.

9. I am
ME
Others are
THEM
When I was a teenager
I WAS THE SAME AS NOW
At 27 I feel
THE BEST I HAVE EVER FELT
My work is
ABOUT ME
Right now I am inspired by
JOHN UPDIKE
I live out of
AN APARTMENT
I am in the middle of
A ROOM
I trust people who are
LIKE ME
love mistakes mostly because
YOU DON’T USUALLY MAKE THEM MORE THAN THREE OR FOUR
TIMES
I’m in awe every time
I LOOK AT THE SKY
I find beauty in
EVERYTHING
A book from my childhood I read again and again is
THE BERENSTAIN BEARS LEARN ABOUT STRANGERS
I always wear
THE SAME GLASSES
I find the human condition
BEAUTIFUL
To be female is
ALL I KNOW
The art of the moment is
IN THE MOMENT
The phrase “creative chaos” reminds me of
NEW AGE HIPPIES
New York is the place that
I LOVE
I am currently working on
LOBSTER DRAWINGS
During summer I plan to
EAT LOBSTER

10. 10
FELDER FELDER
FOLIE A DEUX
interview eleni Malami · Photography nikolas Ventourakis
{ felderfelder.com }
FELDER FELDER ARE AN INSEPARABLE DUET. THE TWIN SISTERS FROM GERMANY MOVED TO LONDON EIGHT YEARS AGO WITH AN AIM: TO
CREATE SOMETHING SUCCESSFUL. AND SO THEY QUICKLY DID; EVEN BEFORE GRADUATING FROM CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS THEY STARTED
VISIONING THEIR OWN FASCINATING LABEL AND SOON AFTER, THEIR NAME WAS ONE OF THE MOST PROMISING IN LONDON FASHION WEEK.
COLLABORATIONS WITH SELFRIDGES AND NOBU FOLLOWED, DEMONSTRATING THEIR VALUE AND RECOGNITION. HAVING HAD THE EXPERIENCE
OF PROFESSIONAL MODELLING, THEY EFFORTLESSLY ACCOMPLISHED AN ULTRA FEMININE FIGURE WITH DESIRABLE CLOTHING FOR THE MODERN
GIRL; LEATHER, FRILLS, FUR AND OUTSTANDING DETAILS FOR A SUPERB OUTFIT. THE GIRLS HAVE DECIDED TO PRESENT THEIR FIRST PRE-COLLECTION
THIS JULY, WHILE WE OBSERVE THEIR CONSTANT EVOLUTION AND AWAIT THEIR SHOWS ON EVERY SEASON.
HOW WAS THE TRANSITION FROM MODELLINg TO DESIgNINg? DID THIS ExPERIENCE WHAT ARE YOuR FuTuRE PLANS? WHAT SHALL WE ExPECT FROM YOu FOR NExT
HELP YOu IN BECOMINg QuICkLY INCORPORATED? Through modeling we had the SPRINg/SuMMER? The mood is going to be a bit brighter. The Felder Felder spring
chance to work with some amazing people - Mario Testino shot us for Italian Vogue , we summer girl likes to be exciting and glamorous without any effort, which has to translate
modeled for Diesel and Robert Cary-Williams to name but a few. At the same time we in the collection. Furthermore, we are presenting our first pre-collection for S/S in July,
had the chance to get an inside view into the industry, which certainly gave us a clearer which will include funky festival outfits and some cool party dresses - watch this space!
view of what to expect from it.
HOW WAS THE COLLABORATION WITH NOBu? WAS IT CHALLENgINg DESIgNINg
IS IT EASY WORkINg TOgETHER COMPLEMENTINg EACH OTHER OR DO YOu PREFER VERY SIMPLE gARMENTS - uNIFORMS? Nobu is such an amazing and glamorous place,
SEPARATE TASkS? We do enjoy both, actually. We always work together on research that it was a very exciting challenge. It didn’t feel like designing a uniform collection.
and collection planning for example, but divide tasks when it comes to technical and
production aspects. DO YOu AIM TO OPEN YOuR OWN STORE OR YOu BELIEVE IS WISER STOCkINg
LuxuRIOuS BOuTIQuES? Somewhere down the line it would be a dream to open a
HOW IMPORTANT IS LONDON FOR YOuR PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL EVOLuTION? store. For now, we are happy selling to our fantastic stockists and we are launching our
London is a really important part of both, our professional and personal evolution. We e-commerce site in the next couple of weeks, which we are very excited about.
love the creative energy in London and all these amazing talented people who are never
tired of collaborating and working on projects, which is quite special in London! We LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORk AND MILAN. FOuR FASHION WEEkS IN FOuR CITIES. WHY
are still working with people we went to Central St. Martins with, as well. DO YOu BELIEVE THAT YOu FIT BETTER IN THE LONDON SCENE? London is unique in its
support for new and upcoming brands. It would have been very hard to get where we
YOu MANAgED TO CREATE A DISTINCTIVE FASHION VISION WHICH WAS RAPIDLY are right now in any other city, I think.
ESTABLISHED IN THE LONDON SCENE. WHAT IS THIS SPECIAL “SOMETHINg” THAT
MAkES A FELDER FELDER gIRL uNIQuE? It is her ability to show a variety of personality, IN THE LAST DECADE FASHION IS EVOLVINg QuICkLY. EVERY YEAR NEW NAMES
as our clothes always mix contrasts (which maybe stems from us being twins). The APPEAR MAkINg THEIR OWN LINES. DO YOu FEEL THREATENED OR YOu ENJOY THE
Felder Felder girl can show her strong, self-confident side without loosing her girly and COMPETITION THAT kEEPS THE LEVEL HIgH? We love it, because that is what London
feminine side either, which is quite unique. is known for and keeps the interest of the international buyers and press. Furthermore,
we are all so different that it doesn’t feel threatening at all. We are proud of the success
YOu CREATE A VERY STRONg AND FEMININE FIguRE WHILE RETAININg A gIRLY HINT. of our other designer friends.
WHO OR WHAT IS YOuR MuSE? Our mother is a big muse, as she captures all aspects
of our Felder Felder girl/woman - strong, fearless, elegant, glamorous, funny and girly… DO YOu FEEL THAT FASHION IS CHAOTIC? CAN CHAOS LEAD TO A CREATIVE
super woman to cut it short - for the collections we mostly combine two stories and ExPLOSION? It certainly can - as long as you can manage to turn it into a business at one
merge them into one, to keep the contrasting spirit alive. point, it is absolutely fine as well....
YOuR WINTER COLLECTION WAS MAINLY BLACk WITH LEATHER ELEMENTS; WHAT ATTITuDE WOuLD YOu SuggEST TO THIS CRISIS THAT THE WORLD IS gOINg
EMBELLISHED WITH DETAILED FRILLINg. WHERE DID YOu gET YOuR INSPIRATION THROugH? DO YOu THINk THAT THE PACE OF FASHION BuSINESS IS gOINg TO STAY
FROM AND WHAT WAS THE STORY BEHIND? The A/W10 collection was inspired by dark THE SAME? Don’t get involved too much - crises come and go... important is that you
story tellers like Bram Stoker and Tim Burton and their genius vision to bring something stay true to yourself and only do what you enjoy and treat others the way that you
very romantic into a very dark scenario... would like to be treated.
CORSET BASED FIguRES AND ELABORATED DETAILS OF FRILLINg AND LEATHER APPEAR
TO BE PERMANENT IN YOuR COLLECTIONS. WHY DO YOu THINk THAT A WOMAN
WOuLD gO FOR SuCH gARMENTS? Try it on and you will know better, we prefer to let
the clothes speak for themselves.

12. 12
toP MArY WAnTS A PUrPle dreSS (M.w.a.P.d) | Panty stylist’s own
PhotograPhy YiorGoS KAPlAnidiS
styling MAriAnThi ChATZiKidi
MaKeuP MAirY FAKinoU
coordiation eFTihiA KoUroUSi
PhotograPher’s assistant AnGeloS TSAMPArdoUKAS
Model JilliAn KellY (ace Models)

14. PhotograPhy CoSTAS AVGoUliS (d-tales)
styling MAriAnThi ChATZiKidi
hair & MaKeuP STellA MAVrodi (d-tales)
PhotograPher’s assistant dAMiAnoS KArTAS (d-tales)
stylist’s assistant MeliSSAnThi SPei
coordination eFTihiA KoUroUSi
Models: nATAliA BoniFACCi (ace Models), MihAil (vn Models), PAVel (vn Models)
Pavel wears toP diGiTAriA | toP worn as a hat AdidAS oriGinAlS BY JereMY SCoTT

16. PhotograPhy nUriA riUS
styling CArliToS TrUJillo
hair & MaKe uP JAMeS hUrUnUi de KASTeel + AGenT PArA MAC Y AVedA (le salon)
Model AnnA neMeTh (elite Model ManageMent)
PhotograPhy assistant GherArdo niTriCi
stylist assistant iVonA iVon
shorts CheAP MondAY (shoP&trade) | shirt lee | sunglasses AdriAn MUSTelin | necKerchieF stylist’s own

18. 18
PhotograPhy niKolAS VenToUrAKiS
hair & MaKe - uP STellA MAVrodi (d - tales)
Models MArleen de KorT (action ManageMent) · idA SKePPAr (ace Models)

19. 19

20. NEW
ART
FOR
THE
PEOPLE

21. A design expert, an actress, a fashion
designer and an artist.
There is a new generation of creative people
that is emerging in Athens. They are young,
active and have something to say and, by
all means, you’d better listen because these
people are going through a crisis.
INTERVIEWS WITH:
> YATZER
> AGGELIKI PAPOULIA
> DIGITARIA
> CACAO ROCKS
PORTRAITS BY:
> NIKOLAS VENTOURAKIS

22. THIS IS JUST A SMALL PREVIEW OF OUR INTERNATIONAL ISSUE.
PLEASE VISIT WWW.OZONWEB.COM FOR UPDATES ON CURRENT
PROJECTS AND FUTURE ISSUES.