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W H A T I S K V E I K ?
L A R S M A R I U S G A R S H O L , N O R S K K O R N Ø L F E S T I V A L , 2 0 1 7 - 0 9 -
2 4
B I O L O G Y 1 0 1
Y E A S T S A R E F U N G I
• Humans and yeasts are eukaryotes
• Bacteria is something totally different
All life
Bacteria ArchaeaEukaryotes
Animals PlantsFungi
K I N D S O F Y E A S T S
Saccharomycetales
sugar fungi
Saccharomycetales
CandidaNakazawaea
? Saccharomycetaceae
Brettanomyces/
Dekkera
PichiaSaccharomyces
budding fungi
Nakazawaea
holstii
Brettanomyces
clausenii
Saccharomyces
cerevisiae
Saccharomyces
eubayanus
Saccharomyces
paradoxus
Saccharomyces
pastorianus
S A C C H A R O M Y C E S C E R E V I S I A E
• Porter
• IPA
• Kölsch
• Trippel
• Dubbel
• Hefeweizen
• Gose
• Bitter
• Altbier
• Saison
• Sahti
• Mild
• Stout
• Witbier
S A C C H A R O M Y C E S
P A S T O R I A N U S
• Bock
• Pilsner
• Helles
• Dunkel
• Baltisk porter
• Vienna
• Kellerbier
• American Lager
• Schwarzbier
• Rauchbier
T E M P E R A T U R E S
0° 20° 40°10° 30°
S A C C H A R O M Y C E S P A S T O R I A N U S
S A C C H A R O M Y C E S C E R E V I S I A E
L A C T O B A C I L L U S
Lager fermentation
H I S T O R Y
F A R M H O U S E Y E A S T
B R E W E R I E S
S H A R I N G O F Y E A S T
• There was always a surplus of yeast
- brewing produced more yeast than people needed
• Farmhouse brewers borrowed from each other
• Commercial brewers did the same
• In 18th century Copenhagen, brewers were required to
give yeast to bakeries for free
L O U I S
P A S T E U R
• Proved that yeast was
alive
• Invented methods to get
rid of bacteria
• Introduced brewers to
microbiology methods
E M I L C H R .
H A N S E N
• Invented method to purify
yeast
• Invented an apparatus to
grow yeast safely
• Introduced the purified,
non-reused yeast
• Took over completely
within the 19th century
E X T I N C T I O N
1935
1940
1980
1975
1950
1990
1970
1950
F A R M H O U S E Y E A S T N O W
F A M I L Y T R E E O F Y E A S T
Domestication and Divergence of Saccharomyces cerevisiae Beer Yeasts, Gallone et al., 2016, Cell 166, 1397–1410 September 8, 2016 http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cell.2016.08.020
R E U S E O F Y E A S T
• Gallone et al thinks reuse of yeast began late 16th
century
• Common ancestor of Beer 1 started diverging then
- Beer 2 likewise
• They claim this coincides with a shift to larger
breweries
T E C H N O L O G Y
• A piece of wood is enough
• Or a ring of straw
• And some knowledge
S I M P L E L O G I C
• Beer was usually brewed for feasts
- Christmas sacrifice, Christmas, childbirth, betrothal, freeing of
a slave, guilds, …
• With spontaneous fermentation result uncertain
- how could this be acceptable for an important feast?
- would the farmers gamble precious grain for a process that’s
so uncertain?
Anna Wecker, 1616
kveik
gjær
jal/est/jet/nøre/kakoemne
gjest(er)
barm
gong
I B E R I A O G G A L L I A
7 7 E . K R
Plinius den eldre, Naturalis Historia, bok 23, kapittel 12
Beer in Greco-Roman Antiquity, Max Nelson, PhD thesis, University of British Columbia, 2001.
E V O L U T I O N
H A N S E N : B E F O R E A N D A F T E R
Lab yeast1883
Kveik
S P O N T A N E O U S
F E R M E N T A T I O N
B A C T E R I A I N L A M B I C
The Microbial Diversity of Traditional
Spontaneously Fermented Lambic Beer,
Spitaels et al, PlosONE, April 18, 2014,
DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0095384.
Y E A S T I N L A M B I C
S A C C H A R O M Y C E S C E R E V I S I A E
• Grows fast
• Lowers pH in the wort
• Produces alcohol
• Consumes the oxygen
• Consumes the simple sugars
D O M E S T I C A T I O N
C H A N G E S I N B R E W E R ’ S Y E A S T
• Better at consuming maltotriose
• Can’t handle drying
• Higher alcohol tolerance
• Doesn’t make 4-vinyl-guaiacol (phenol)
• Flocculates better
E V O L U T I O N I N P R A C T I C E
• Maltotriose
• Alcohol tolerance
• Flocculation
P O F + A N D P O F -
• Wild yeasts are POF+, brewer’s yeast usually POF-
• Yeast does not need 4-vinyl-guaiacol
- makes it to get rid of harmful acids
• These acids exist in nature, but there’s little of them in beer
• Two genes responsible: PAD1 og FDC1
- Gallone et al found that these were disabled by “nonsense mutations”
• These mutations don’t give any benefits for surviving in wort
- humans have actively selected POF- yeasts
W H A T C A N L I V E I N B E E R ?
• Mold
• Bacteria
• Yeast
- rare yeast types
- Brettanomyces
- Saccharomyces
• Saccharomyces cerevisiae
• Wild yeast
• Domesticated yeast
• Saccharomyces pastorianus
• Saccharomyces paradoxus
• …
K V E I K
Ål
Stordal
Sykkylven
Bleie
Granvin
Lærdal
Stranda
Hornindal
A N A L Y S I S B Y
• National Collection of Yeast Cultures (NCYC)
- Norwich, UK
- commercial company
- started by British breweries
- purpose: to preserve yeast cultures
• Escarpment Labs
- Guelph, Canada
- commercial vendor of yeast
K V E I K S
# Name Species POF
1 sigmund Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
3 Stranda Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
4 Muri Hybrid +
5 Raftevold Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
6 Lærdal Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
7 Granvin Saccharomyces cerevisiae & Pichia -
8 Sykkylven Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
9 Ebbegarden Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
10 Framgarden Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
11 Lida Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
12 Nupen Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
13 Årset Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
14 Eitrheim Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
T H E M U R I M Y S T E R Y
• Last brew at Muri farm in Olden was in 1991
- kveik dried and left in a farm storehouse
• Retrieved in 2014 by Bjarne Muri
- went through many rounds of washing before he got it to grow
• Gave it to Bryggselv
- sold commercially by White Labs as WLP 6788
T R I P L E H Y B R I D
• Only kveik that’s another species
• Only kveik that’s POF+
• Makes sulphur aroma - have to mature the beer for months
• Was the yeast dead? Did Bjarne Muri grow something from the air?
• Saccharomyces eubayanus never found in Europe
2003
2007
2005
# 3 5 W O L L S Æ T E R
• From Hellesylt
- revived after 30 years by William Holden
- and by DeWayne Schaaf
• Results from the two attempts seem different
- looks like the yeast was dead
- and they probably grew something else
• Not 100% certain yet
S T R A I N S
• The kveiks contain more
than one strain
• Usually the strains are
very similar
• But not always …
M I X E S
• Sunnmøre and Nordfjord have a tradition for mixing
kveiks
• This is visible in analysis
• Many more strains
• Often large variation
S T R A I N S
# Name Strains Source
1 Sigmund 3
NCYC
2 Rivenes 7 NCYC
3 Stranda 1 NCYC
4 Muri 2 NCYC
5 Raftevold 8 NCYC
8 Sykkylven 10 NCYC
1
6
Simonaitis 5 NCYC
? ? 2 NCYC
? ? 6 NCYC
3
9
Marina 2 Escarpment
F E R M E N T A T I O N
T E M P E R A T U R E S
fermentation temperature in Celsius
number of
kveiks
Anna Wecker, 1616
F E R M E N T A T I O N
T E M P E R A T U R E S
number of
sources
fermentation temperature in Celsius
W H Y S O H O T ?
• During cooling temperature falls slower the lower you
get
- with old-fashioned methods and 150 liters this was slow
• Brewers were impatient
• The longer they waited, the greater the risk of infection
• The warmer you could ferment, the better
D R Y I N G
• Brewer’s yeast usually cannot be dried
• It loses this ability because it’s not needed
• Brewers keep it wet between brews
• But kveik can be dried - why?
B R E W S P E R Y E A R
A L C O H O L S T R E N G T H
kg malts
pr litre of
beer
latitude
M A L T U S A G E
kg malt
per year
latitude
F L O C C U L A T I O N
• Sigmund harvests from the bottom
- kveik flocculates very, very quickly
• Terje Raftevold harvests from the top
- kveik gathers like porridge on top of the wort
• Eitrheim family harvests wherever
- the kveik flocculates, but stick a spoon in it and it whirls up
F E R M E N T A T I O N T I M E
fermentation time in hours
brewers
G R O W T H S P E E D
• Saccharomyces cerevisiae 80 minutes
• Lactobacillus 25 minutes to several hundred
• The yeast usually grows faster than the bacteria
- the beer usually doesn’t sour before after a week
- at that time the yeast has already finished
• Harvesting the yeast early reduces the chances of infection
F E R M E N T A T I O N S P E E D
Data from Øyvind Løkling, Tilt Brewometer, Nøgne Ø Porter, fermented with #6 Lærdal
A T H E O R Y
• Several yeasts researchers say the different strains
need each other
- some might produce vitamins that the others need
• But pure cultures will also grow
• From Richard Preiss’s results it looks like the single
strains grow more slowly
- because the need the vitamins?
• Pure speculation so far
H O W T O B R E W W I T H K V E I K
• Use same temperature as the owner
• Short fermentation time
• Harvest the yeast the same way as the owner
• How to get the most flavour
- underpitch (compared with normal yeast)
- lots of oxygen!
L I T H U A N I A
raw ale
keptinis
E X I S T I N G Y E A S T
J O V A R U A L U S
T H E Y E A S T S
# Name Species POF
16 Simonaitis Saccharomyces cerevisiae +
X ? Saccharomyces cerevisiae + ?
X ? Saccharomyces cerevisiae ?
X ? Saccharomyces cerevisiae ?
X ? Nakazawaea holstii ?
X ? Brettanomyces + ?
K E E P I N G T H E Y E A S T
• Aldona Udriene, Jovaru Alus
- kept the yeast in a jar, buried in the ground
• Julius Simonaitis
- keeps the yeast in a jar in the well
• Lithuanians would brew when the barrel was empty
• Yeast probably can’t be dried
L I T H U A N I A N Y E A S T
• Doesn’t seem to be related to the Norwegian ones
• Handles high temperatures
• Much greater species variation
• Less tradition for sharing the yeast in Lithuania
- is that why?
R U S S I A
C H U V A S H I A
K S H A U S H I
T H E Y E A S T S
• #39 Marina
- pitched at 39
- both Saccharomyces and non-Saccharomyces
• #40 Rima
- contains mould, bacteria, and yeast
- both Saccharomyces and non-Saccharomyces
- makes good beer
C O N C L U S I O N
“ K V E I K ”
• What should it mean?
- Farmhouse yeast?
- Norwegian farmhouse yeast?
- Farmhouse yeast from western Norway?
• Where does “gong” from Hallingdal fit?
K V E I K
• Definitely domesticated yeast, not wild
• In many ways a super-yeast
- high alcohol tolerance
- very fast fermentation
- extreme temperature tolerance
- can be dried
- new flavours
- easy to use
F A R M H O U S E Y E A S T
• It seems farmhouse yeasts all over Europe were
temperature tolerant
• They also don’t seem to be related
• Most modern yeasts descend from just 2 strains
• Is the modern yeast a deviant? And the kveik normal?
– J U S T I N A M A R A L ,
M A I N I A C A L B R E W I N G C O M P A N Y ,
U S
“I can't say enough good things about Kveik. They
are beasts.”
Questions?

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Kveik - what is it?

  • 1. W H A T I S K V E I K ? L A R S M A R I U S G A R S H O L , N O R S K K O R N Ø L F E S T I V A L , 2 0 1 7 - 0 9 - 2 4
  • 2. B I O L O G Y 1 0 1
  • 3. Y E A S T S A R E F U N G I • Humans and yeasts are eukaryotes • Bacteria is something totally different All life Bacteria ArchaeaEukaryotes Animals PlantsFungi
  • 4. K I N D S O F Y E A S T S Saccharomycetales sugar fungi Saccharomycetales CandidaNakazawaea ? Saccharomycetaceae Brettanomyces/ Dekkera PichiaSaccharomyces budding fungi Nakazawaea holstii Brettanomyces clausenii Saccharomyces cerevisiae Saccharomyces eubayanus Saccharomyces paradoxus Saccharomyces pastorianus
  • 5. S A C C H A R O M Y C E S C E R E V I S I A E • Porter • IPA • Kölsch • Trippel • Dubbel • Hefeweizen • Gose • Bitter • Altbier • Saison • Sahti • Mild • Stout • Witbier
  • 6. S A C C H A R O M Y C E S P A S T O R I A N U S • Bock • Pilsner • Helles • Dunkel • Baltisk porter • Vienna • Kellerbier • American Lager • Schwarzbier • Rauchbier
  • 7. T E M P E R A T U R E S 0° 20° 40°10° 30° S A C C H A R O M Y C E S P A S T O R I A N U S S A C C H A R O M Y C E S C E R E V I S I A E L A C T O B A C I L L U S Lager fermentation
  • 8. H I S T O R Y
  • 9. F A R M H O U S E Y E A S T
  • 10. B R E W E R I E S
  • 11. S H A R I N G O F Y E A S T • There was always a surplus of yeast - brewing produced more yeast than people needed • Farmhouse brewers borrowed from each other • Commercial brewers did the same • In 18th century Copenhagen, brewers were required to give yeast to bakeries for free
  • 12. L O U I S P A S T E U R • Proved that yeast was alive • Invented methods to get rid of bacteria • Introduced brewers to microbiology methods
  • 13. E M I L C H R . H A N S E N • Invented method to purify yeast • Invented an apparatus to grow yeast safely • Introduced the purified, non-reused yeast • Took over completely within the 19th century
  • 14. E X T I N C T I O N 1935 1940 1980 1975 1950 1990 1970 1950
  • 15. F A R M H O U S E Y E A S T N O W
  • 16. F A M I L Y T R E E O F Y E A S T Domestication and Divergence of Saccharomyces cerevisiae Beer Yeasts, Gallone et al., 2016, Cell 166, 1397–1410 September 8, 2016 http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cell.2016.08.020
  • 17. R E U S E O F Y E A S T • Gallone et al thinks reuse of yeast began late 16th century • Common ancestor of Beer 1 started diverging then - Beer 2 likewise • They claim this coincides with a shift to larger breweries
  • 18. T E C H N O L O G Y • A piece of wood is enough • Or a ring of straw • And some knowledge
  • 19. S I M P L E L O G I C • Beer was usually brewed for feasts - Christmas sacrifice, Christmas, childbirth, betrothal, freeing of a slave, guilds, … • With spontaneous fermentation result uncertain - how could this be acceptable for an important feast? - would the farmers gamble precious grain for a process that’s so uncertain?
  • 21.
  • 23. I B E R I A O G G A L L I A 7 7 E . K R Plinius den eldre, Naturalis Historia, bok 23, kapittel 12
  • 24. Beer in Greco-Roman Antiquity, Max Nelson, PhD thesis, University of British Columbia, 2001.
  • 25. E V O L U T I O N
  • 26. H A N S E N : B E F O R E A N D A F T E R Lab yeast1883 Kveik
  • 27.
  • 28. S P O N T A N E O U S F E R M E N T A T I O N
  • 29. B A C T E R I A I N L A M B I C The Microbial Diversity of Traditional Spontaneously Fermented Lambic Beer, Spitaels et al, PlosONE, April 18, 2014, DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0095384.
  • 30. Y E A S T I N L A M B I C
  • 31. S A C C H A R O M Y C E S C E R E V I S I A E • Grows fast • Lowers pH in the wort • Produces alcohol • Consumes the oxygen • Consumes the simple sugars
  • 32. D O M E S T I C A T I O N
  • 33. C H A N G E S I N B R E W E R ’ S Y E A S T • Better at consuming maltotriose • Can’t handle drying • Higher alcohol tolerance • Doesn’t make 4-vinyl-guaiacol (phenol) • Flocculates better
  • 34. E V O L U T I O N I N P R A C T I C E • Maltotriose • Alcohol tolerance • Flocculation
  • 35. P O F + A N D P O F - • Wild yeasts are POF+, brewer’s yeast usually POF- • Yeast does not need 4-vinyl-guaiacol - makes it to get rid of harmful acids • These acids exist in nature, but there’s little of them in beer • Two genes responsible: PAD1 og FDC1 - Gallone et al found that these were disabled by “nonsense mutations” • These mutations don’t give any benefits for surviving in wort - humans have actively selected POF- yeasts
  • 36. W H A T C A N L I V E I N B E E R ? • Mold • Bacteria • Yeast - rare yeast types - Brettanomyces - Saccharomyces • Saccharomyces cerevisiae • Wild yeast • Domesticated yeast • Saccharomyces pastorianus • Saccharomyces paradoxus • …
  • 37. K V E I K
  • 39. A N A L Y S I S B Y • National Collection of Yeast Cultures (NCYC) - Norwich, UK - commercial company - started by British breweries - purpose: to preserve yeast cultures • Escarpment Labs - Guelph, Canada - commercial vendor of yeast
  • 40. K V E I K S # Name Species POF 1 sigmund Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 3 Stranda Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 4 Muri Hybrid + 5 Raftevold Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 6 Lærdal Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 7 Granvin Saccharomyces cerevisiae & Pichia - 8 Sykkylven Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 9 Ebbegarden Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 10 Framgarden Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 11 Lida Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 12 Nupen Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 13 Årset Saccharomyces cerevisiae - 14 Eitrheim Saccharomyces cerevisiae -
  • 41. T H E M U R I M Y S T E R Y • Last brew at Muri farm in Olden was in 1991 - kveik dried and left in a farm storehouse • Retrieved in 2014 by Bjarne Muri - went through many rounds of washing before he got it to grow • Gave it to Bryggselv - sold commercially by White Labs as WLP 6788
  • 42. T R I P L E H Y B R I D • Only kveik that’s another species • Only kveik that’s POF+ • Makes sulphur aroma - have to mature the beer for months • Was the yeast dead? Did Bjarne Muri grow something from the air? • Saccharomyces eubayanus never found in Europe
  • 44. # 3 5 W O L L S Æ T E R • From Hellesylt - revived after 30 years by William Holden - and by DeWayne Schaaf • Results from the two attempts seem different - looks like the yeast was dead - and they probably grew something else • Not 100% certain yet
  • 45. S T R A I N S • The kveiks contain more than one strain • Usually the strains are very similar • But not always …
  • 46. M I X E S • Sunnmøre and Nordfjord have a tradition for mixing kveiks • This is visible in analysis • Many more strains • Often large variation
  • 47. S T R A I N S # Name Strains Source 1 Sigmund 3 NCYC 2 Rivenes 7 NCYC 3 Stranda 1 NCYC 4 Muri 2 NCYC 5 Raftevold 8 NCYC 8 Sykkylven 10 NCYC 1 6 Simonaitis 5 NCYC ? ? 2 NCYC ? ? 6 NCYC 3 9 Marina 2 Escarpment
  • 48. F E R M E N T A T I O N T E M P E R A T U R E S fermentation temperature in Celsius number of kveiks
  • 49.
  • 51. F E R M E N T A T I O N T E M P E R A T U R E S number of sources fermentation temperature in Celsius
  • 52. W H Y S O H O T ? • During cooling temperature falls slower the lower you get - with old-fashioned methods and 150 liters this was slow • Brewers were impatient • The longer they waited, the greater the risk of infection • The warmer you could ferment, the better
  • 53. D R Y I N G • Brewer’s yeast usually cannot be dried • It loses this ability because it’s not needed • Brewers keep it wet between brews • But kveik can be dried - why?
  • 54. B R E W S P E R Y E A R
  • 55. A L C O H O L S T R E N G T H kg malts pr litre of beer latitude
  • 56. M A L T U S A G E kg malt per year latitude
  • 57. F L O C C U L A T I O N • Sigmund harvests from the bottom - kveik flocculates very, very quickly • Terje Raftevold harvests from the top - kveik gathers like porridge on top of the wort • Eitrheim family harvests wherever - the kveik flocculates, but stick a spoon in it and it whirls up
  • 58. F E R M E N T A T I O N T I M E fermentation time in hours brewers
  • 59. G R O W T H S P E E D • Saccharomyces cerevisiae 80 minutes • Lactobacillus 25 minutes to several hundred • The yeast usually grows faster than the bacteria - the beer usually doesn’t sour before after a week - at that time the yeast has already finished • Harvesting the yeast early reduces the chances of infection
  • 60. F E R M E N T A T I O N S P E E D Data from Øyvind Løkling, Tilt Brewometer, Nøgne Ø Porter, fermented with #6 Lærdal
  • 61. A T H E O R Y • Several yeasts researchers say the different strains need each other - some might produce vitamins that the others need • But pure cultures will also grow • From Richard Preiss’s results it looks like the single strains grow more slowly - because the need the vitamins? • Pure speculation so far
  • 62. H O W T O B R E W W I T H K V E I K • Use same temperature as the owner • Short fermentation time • Harvest the yeast the same way as the owner • How to get the most flavour - underpitch (compared with normal yeast) - lots of oxygen!
  • 63. L I T H U A N I A
  • 65. E X I S T I N G Y E A S T
  • 66. J O V A R U A L U S
  • 67.
  • 68. T H E Y E A S T S # Name Species POF 16 Simonaitis Saccharomyces cerevisiae + X ? Saccharomyces cerevisiae + ? X ? Saccharomyces cerevisiae ? X ? Saccharomyces cerevisiae ? X ? Nakazawaea holstii ? X ? Brettanomyces + ?
  • 69. K E E P I N G T H E Y E A S T • Aldona Udriene, Jovaru Alus - kept the yeast in a jar, buried in the ground • Julius Simonaitis - keeps the yeast in a jar in the well • Lithuanians would brew when the barrel was empty • Yeast probably can’t be dried
  • 70. L I T H U A N I A N Y E A S T • Doesn’t seem to be related to the Norwegian ones • Handles high temperatures • Much greater species variation • Less tradition for sharing the yeast in Lithuania - is that why?
  • 71. R U S S I A
  • 72. C H U V A S H I A
  • 73. K S H A U S H I
  • 74.
  • 75.
  • 76.
  • 77. T H E Y E A S T S • #39 Marina - pitched at 39 - both Saccharomyces and non-Saccharomyces • #40 Rima - contains mould, bacteria, and yeast - both Saccharomyces and non-Saccharomyces - makes good beer
  • 78. C O N C L U S I O N
  • 79. “ K V E I K ” • What should it mean? - Farmhouse yeast? - Norwegian farmhouse yeast? - Farmhouse yeast from western Norway? • Where does “gong” from Hallingdal fit?
  • 80. K V E I K • Definitely domesticated yeast, not wild • In many ways a super-yeast - high alcohol tolerance - very fast fermentation - extreme temperature tolerance - can be dried - new flavours - easy to use
  • 81. F A R M H O U S E Y E A S T • It seems farmhouse yeasts all over Europe were temperature tolerant • They also don’t seem to be related • Most modern yeasts descend from just 2 strains • Is the modern yeast a deviant? And the kveik normal?
  • 82. – J U S T I N A M A R A L , M A I N I A C A L B R E W I N G C O M P A N Y , U S “I can't say enough good things about Kveik. They are beasts.”

Notas do Editor

  1. Gjæren var altså tilpasset varm temperatur. Og det ser vi på de forskjellige kveikstammene som er samlet. Men ikke tro at WLP 6788 gir appelsinaroma. Det gjør den ikke. De ulike kveikene er veldig forskjellige.