Application of Contemporary Fibers in Apparel

www.vasantkothari.com
A
Series of Articles
On
Application of Contemporary
Fibers in Apparel
By
Vasant Kothari

www.vasantkothari.com
Index
1 Ingeo
2 Bamboo
3 Lyocell
4 Soybean
5 Modal
6 Chloro
7 Cocona
8 Coffee
9 Carilare
10 Melamine
11 Dyeable Polypropylene
12 Cupro
13 Milk
14 Nettle
15 Pearl
16 Chitosan
17 Banana
18 Pina
19 Lotus
20 Seaweed
21 PTT
22 Spider Silk
23 Feather
24 Rice
25 Abaca
26 Hibiscus
27 Camel
28 Silver
29 Aloe Vera
30 Sugar Cane
31 FIR
32 Horse Hair
33 Angora
34 Chiengora
35 Llamas
36 Amicor
37 Qivit
38 Vicuna

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2011 57
Ingeo™ is a trademark for the first commercially
viable man-made fibre made from 100 per cent
annually renewable resources. Renewable resources
examples are corn and genetically modified corn. It is
more hydrophilic than common polyester fibres, when
blended with cotton and wool, Ingeo™ results in
lighter garments that absorb moisture better, wicking
water away from the skin.
Ingeo™ fibres are Polylactide(PLA) fibres, an unique
bio-based material derived from corn and also from
sugarcane instead of oil, as other polymer fibres. Poly
(lactic acid) or polylactide (PLA) is a bio-degradable,
thermoplastic polymer that is extracted from natural
renewable resources. The fibres are now being
manufacturedinlargescaleintheUSfromcorn.These
fibres can be manufactured from grass, bio-mass and
other crops that are capable of producing starch
sugars. The subsequent processes of yarn production,
fabric production and apparels are similar to the
processes of producing polyester.
History
PLA fibre has been known since the 1930’s when it
was first synthesised. PLA has been synthesised
widely from starch, and hence sugarcane was
considered as the predominant source of PLA until
corn production went on a hike in the US for
manufacturing ethanol. Ever since then various
researches were conducted on corn. In the 1980’s
the first break was obtained when PLA was
synthesised from corn starch. In 2000’s production
of fibres from corn PLA was set up in a large scale.
It was introduced globally in 2003 on a
commercially viable scale by NatureWorks LLC, a
company dedicated to more sustainable and
environmental product and business development.
NatureWorks’ mission is to drive real
environmental progress through its global market
development and communication of the many and
varied Ingeo™ branded products made today from
Ingeo™ fibre.
Fibre properties
Ingeo™ PLA is the first melt-processable natural
based fibre, with the PLA resin using readily available
polyester type fibre manufacturing processes. The
fundamental polymer chemistry of PLA allows control
of certain fibre properties and makes the fibre suitable
forawidevarietyoftechnicaltextilefibreapplications,
especially apparel and performance apparel
applications such as:
The fibre with good strength, the corresponding fabric
with many properties, such as gentle bright luster,
good crease recovery and shrink resistance, good
air-permeability and moisture absorption, high
resistance to UV. Moreover, it is soft, silk-like luster,
comfortable handle, exquisite skin sensation, bacteria
resistanceandmildew-proof.Afterdyeing,manysmall
holes can be found on the side surface, which has the
same effect as wool squama, such as absorbing
moisture, quick dry and breathing freely. The clothing
made of it with graceful drape ability, wash and wear

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 201158
treatment, rebound resilience, size stability to the
many solvents including dry cleaning agent, dirt
resistance, endurance to the sunlight and the climate,
it is a new generation of green fibre.
This fibre can replace various textile materials, it is
most fit for clothing, can be made into yarn, fabric,
knitting, nonwoven, staple fibre, multifilament and
single filament. It can be spun into pure yarn, at the
same time can be spun with cotton, wool, viscose
and other chemical fibres. It has been widely used in
underwear, outer coat, sports wears, shirt, T-shirt,
jacket, trousers and dress. It is regarded as an
environmental-friendly new textile material. It blends
the humanity, nature and technology into a unity
concordantly.
Main features in clothing industry:
• Soft handle, which assures you of an irreplaceable
good feeling
• Low moisture absorption and high wicking, offering
benefits for sports and performance apparel and
products
• Low flammability and smoke generation
• With good wrinkle and shrink resistance, graceful
drape ability, easy care
• Antimicrobial, mildew-proof, keep skin clean and
safe
• High resistance to ultra violet (UV) light, a benefit
forperformanceapparelaswellasoutdoorfurniture
and furnishings applications
• A low index of refraction, which provides excellent
colour characteristics. The refractive index of 1.35–
1.45 is lower than PET(1.54)
• Bio-degradable completely and environment-
friendly
• Lower specific gravity, 1.25 g/cm3, making PLA
lighter in weight than other fibres
• In addition to coming from an annually renewable
resource base PLA fibres are readily melt-spun,
offering manufacturing advantages that result in
greater consumer choice
• High resilience
• Low odour retention
• Biological resistance: Not inherently ‘antimicrobial’
without suitable after-finish treatment
• Care must be taken in dyeing and finishing, as PLA
is a linear aliphatic fibre, its resistance to hydrolysis
PLA is even less environmentally costly than other
bio-degradable thermoplastics, since the entire mass
of PLA can eventually be re-converted into new PLA,
whereas many other bio-degradable thermoplastics
incorporate at least some material derived from fossil
fuels.
Comparison with other fibres
When compared to other fibres like cotton, nylon,
PET, rayon and silk, the properties that are considered
are generally for the yarn forming nature and physical
and mechanical properties (See in table 1).
Hydrophilicity
Water molecules have access to the polar oxygen
linkages in the PLA molecule, it has a higher natural
hydrophilicitythanmostotherthermoplasticpolymers,
including polypropylene, nylon, and PET. This improves
the wettability of the fibre as well as the moisture
vapour transmission of fabrics made with PLA fibres,
which allows improvements in “breathability” of
garments such as shirts, dresses, underwear, and
shoes. PLA fibres are not as wettable as cotton, but
they can provide moisture transport improvements
when they replace fibres like PET or nylon.
Dyeability
Also important to its use in various apparel
applications is PLA’s dyeability. It can be disperse-
dyed using standard PET dyes and dyeing procedure,
but again there is a difference between PLA and PET.
PLA’s refractive index is lower than that of PET or
nylon, so it can be dyed to deeper and brighter
shades.
Other attractive properties
Amazingly for a polymer that is readily consumed by
microbes in composting, PLA does not support
bacterial growth before composting. Finally, PLA’s
specific gravity is only 1.25. Since this is less than
that of PET, and since fibres are sold by the pound and
converted into fabrics sold by length or area, PLA
fibres can replace PET with no increase in cost, even
if PLA fibres are priced 12 per cent higher.
From the comparison between the
fibres we can derive some positives
and negatives for PLA fibre.
Positives:
• PLAistheonlymeltprocessablenaturalbasedpolymer
• PLA has a lower specific gravity than natural fibres
• Optical composition allows control of crystalline
melting point
• The tenacity of PLA is higher than natural fibres
• Moisture regain of PLA is significantly lower than
natural fibres
• Elastic recovery is superior to all other fibres
compared at 5 per cent strain
• PLA has a lower heat of combustion than PET
• Burns with lower smoke than synthetic polymers
compared
• PLA has outstanding UV resistance
• PLA has a low refractive index which produces
intense colours on dyeing
• The low contact angle compared with PET leads to
improved wicking with water
• PLA shows faster moisture spread than PET
Negatives:
• Poor alkali resistance causes strength loss in
conventional disperse dye process
• Low crystalline melt temperature leads to low
ironing temperature
Reduced environmental impact
Ingeo™ fibre leads the way toward producing a wide
range of materials from renewable resources, to meet
Fibreproperty Nylon6 PET PLA Rayon Cotton Silk Wool
Specific gravity 1.14 1.39 1.25 1.52 1.52 1.34 1.31
Tg ºC 90 125 55 – 60 - - - -
Tm ºC 215 255 130-175 None none none none
Tenacity(g/d) 5.5 2.4 - 7.0 2 – 6 2.5 4.0 4.0 1.6
Moisture regain per cent 4.1 0.2 - 0.4 0.4-0.6 11 7.5 10 14-18
Elasticity strain 5 per cent 89 65 93 32 52 52 69
Heat of combustion MJ/kg 3.1 25 - 30 19 17 17 - 21
Flammability Medium smoke, High smoke, burn 6 High smoke, burn 2 Burns Burns Burns Burnsslowly, self
melts min after flame min after flame extinguishing
removed removed
LOI ( per cent) 20-24 20-22 26-35 17-19 16-17 - 24 – 25
UV resistance Poor Fair Excellent Poor Fair - poor Fair-poor Fair
Refractive index 1.52 1.54 1.35-1.45 1.52 1.53 1.54 1.54
Contact angle 70 82 76 - - - -
Wicking - 0.7-0.8 (no finish) 6.3 - 7.5 (no finish); - - - -
19-26 (after finish)
Table 1: Comparison with other fibres
Dyed Ingeo™ fibres

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2011 59
the world's needs today without compromising the
earth's ability to meet the needs of tomorrow. The
fibre is an environmentally preferable option to
petroleum-based synthetic materials:
1. It uses an annually renewable resource, field corn,
instead of petroleum, to make synthetic materials
2. NatureWorks PLA is the world's first greenhouse-
gas-neutral polymer*
3. Products made with Ingeo™ fibre are compostable
where that attribute is desired
4. From cradle to resin, production of this fibre uses
68 per cent less fossil fuel resources than resins
for traditional synthetic fibres
Drawbacks
Of course, no material has only useful and valuable
properties. But those properties of PLA, which could
be called drawbacks, are relatively few, and some are
even useful for certain applications.
The one property for which we have not found a
promising application is PLA’s relatively poor abrasion
resistance. This may limit or even preclude the use of
PLA fibres in some high-performance apparel
applications, in ropes, or in other uses where abrasion
resistance is required. But in tests to date, it has not
proven severe enough to limit the usefulness of PLA
fibres in carpet.
A second “drawback” is PLA’s relatively low melt
temperature. Even the most crystalline form melts at
about 175°C. This will limit PLA’s applicability in high-
temperature environments, but it is at least high
enough not to preclude ironing and drying in apparel
applications.
Uses and applications
Ingeo™ fibre – an innovative performance fibre ideally
suited for apparel, furnishings and nonwovens
applications is ideal for packaging manufacturing.
Applications using Ingeo™ bio-polymer can be clear,
opaque, flexible or rigid. It provides gloss and clarity
similar to polystyrene, and exhibits tensile strength
and modulus comparable to hydrocarbon-based
thermoplastics.
The fibre can have the look and feel of natural fibres
with a comparable performance to traditional
synthetics. Its natural versatility offers the opportunity
to design new yarns, fabrics and garments for a
contemporary wardrobe in both pure qualities and
innovative blends. A new style of fine woven
lightweights plays with reflections, textures and
transparency. Knitwear begins with refined and
functional weights for home wear, separates and
underwear.
• Versatility Ingeo™ fibre is versatile, available in
both filament and staple spun forms. It can make a
wide variety of textile styles from dress to
sportswear, furnishings to drapes and soft
nonwoven baby wipes to tough landscape textiles
• Performance this fibre can outperform traditional
synthetics for UV light resistance, hypoallergenic
properties, outstanding moisture management,
stain resistance, low odour retention, easy care/
quick dry, breathability, comfort and insulation
properties
Thisfibreisusedinmanydifferentapparelapplications:
Contemporary sports and casual wear – T-shirts,
fleece and jeans. Functional fashion separates-
shirting, trousers, duvet jackets, jersey dressing and
essential next-to-skin items such as underwear and
hosiery. Ingeo™ fibre can also be used in new fibrefill
blends for thermal wadding that offers unique natural
insulation properties.
T-shirt
Contemporary-iconic-everyday-unique-performing
- easywear - comfort - quick dry - low odour
Key performances
Moisture wicking: Ingeo™ fibre wicks, (transports
moisture) better than a wide range of other synthetic
fibres.
Comfort: This has proved to be quicker dry than all
the other competitive fibres.
Confidence: This fibre does not allow bacteria
proliferationandthereforeoffersexceptionallowodour
retention.
Shirting
Classics reborn - easy wear - comfort - quick dry -
new touch - iron free
Key performances
Easy care: It's possible either to wash or dry clean
garments made from Ingeo™ fibre.
It is ideal for today's life: It has natural resilience and
holds its shape well over time lighter
Touch: Ingeo™ fibre has an unusual light, dry hand
feel.
Jersey dressing
Fashion driven - special aesthetics - deluxe touch -
unique character - sensual drape - filament sheen
Key performances
Versatility: The fibre is available in both staple and
filament forms in a wide variety of counts from a
micro denier for the finest lightest fabrics to higher
counts for more robust applications
Practicality:CanmachinewashIngeo™fibreproducts.
They show good soil release, are quick drying, and
have excellent after wash appearance. There is no
need to iron.
Duvet jacket
Functional - summer shell/winter duvet - unique
aesthetics - performing - lightweight - comfort - warm
- cool
Key performances
Uniquelusterandtouch:Ingeo™filamentfabricshave
a subtle luster and fluid drape with a natural hand
offeringabeautifulnewmaterialtostimulatecreativity.
Warmth and loft: The fibre has a soft, fluffy feel and
after it's compressed, it easily returns to its bulky
appearance. It provides the outstanding insulating
performance properties.
Performance underwear
Insulating- dry fit - easy care - low odour - lightweight
- moisture - management
Key performances
Confidence: Low odour
FabricMfg Description
Avelana Plain woven fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre for fashion separates
Bel Maille Weft knit fabrics in 100 per cent fibre piece dye for the high fashion market
Chia Her A small range of woven fabrics combining Ingeo™ fibre with wool and cotton in twists
and slub yarns
Cotonificio Veneto Fleece and garment dyed jersey double face fabrics in Ingeo™ fibre mixed with cotton
Everwin A range of fabrics in Ingeo™ fibre blended with cotton
Figli di Michelangelo A range of different fabric structures: corded fabrics, interlock, fleece in 100 per cent
Calamai Ingeo™ fibre and vanisé with Ingeo™ fibre blended with cotton
Fountain Set A new range of nearly 40 jersey fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre solid piece dye,
and in Ingeo™ fibre blended with cotton including a small range of heather mixtures
Gipitex New range of woven filament outerwear - a specialist filament mill working in
partnership with Ingeo™ fibre to uncover the full potential of new yarns, structures
and finishes
Louis Vidon A range of very light weft knit fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre for intimate
wear garments
Mario Cucchetti Jersey qualities in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre and blends with cotton
Pontetorto Fleece and interlock in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre; double face jersey combined with
Ingeo™ fibre cotton and wool
Radici Tessuti A range of woven fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre and blended with cotton and
linen with waterproof membrane laminate finishes
Tessitura Romanò A range of 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre woven fabrics
Tintex A range of super smooth jersey fabrics (Interlock, rib, single jersey and fleece) in
100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre
Fabrics from Ingeo™ fibres

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 201160
Comfort: Dry fit, moisture management, natural touch
Easy care: Quick dry, no iron
Future
As it can be seen, only few applications for the unique
property set offered by PLA fibres. Many more
applications are likely to arise just from the properties
discussed above. But there is also still quite a bit of
investigation to be done regarding the properties of
the polymer and fibres made from it. With future
discoveries in polymer and fibre properties and future
developments in appropriate applications for the
fibres, we expect the use of PLA fibres to expand
rapidly in the next several years. It seems likely that,
as it matures, PLA will eventually find acceptance in
an array of applications as broad as PET, nylon, and
polypropylene. PLA is also being used in the packing
and plastic industries. If the fibre production from
corn is commercialised, there is a great scope for the
fibres to replace fossil fuel fibres like PET, nylon; thus
reducing the carbon emissions in the atmosphere
and also providing excellent properties.
Brands using Ingeo™ fibre products are:
• Armani, men’s and women’s fashion brand (Italy)
• FrancoFrancesca,Italianfashionbrandanddesigner
(Italy)
• Kei Kagami, avant-garde fashion designer (UK)
• Linda Loudermilk, eco luxury designer (USA)
presenting a range of garments made of Ingeo™
(USA)
• Nadia Fassi, Italian fitness brand using Ingeo™ in
their key woman line (Italy)
• REI,hikingsocksfromoutdoorsportsretailers(USA)
• Versace, luxury fashion brand (Italy)
• Diesel, jeans wear fashion brand (Italy)
Conclusion
This fibre is a novel product that combines the best of
both worlds: The performance of a synthetic fibre and
the advantages of a natural material. Ingeo™ fibre
provides one of the best options for society to become
more environmentally-friendly and responsible. This
successful blend of environmental soundness,
aesthetic appeal and proven performance are
combining to propel Ingeo™ fibre products to affirmed
international success. Today, there are many leading
manufacturers around the world actively developing
products made from Ingeo™. Products are already on
the market and available for purchase in places like
the US, Japan, and Europe.
It is helping humanity decrease its dependency on
petroleum and given the textile world an opportunity
to manufacture products without the need for
petroleum. In addition, this fibre production emits 60
per cent to 80 per cent less greenhouse gases into
the atmosphere. It is made from 100 per cent natural
resources that can be grown as quickly as one year.
Thebestalternativedowncomfortercanonlybemade
of a natural resource fibre such as Ingeo™ and still
provide the same quality and comfort as other man
made products. This fibre has completely
revolutionised the textile world and allowed the
companies to be environmentally responsible
Thinking bio-renewable? Think corn! Think…
By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor,
NIFT, Bangalore & S.Vaithilingam,
MFTech, NIFT Bangalore (Author can be
contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)

APPAREL VIEWS / FEBRUARY 201148
Bamboo fabric is a natural textile that has been
growing in popularity in recent years, both for its
quality and its environmental friendliness. Bamboo
grows fast, strong adaptability, and also has a wide
range of uses. Bamboo in people's lives, involve the
use of bamboo clothing, food, shelter, transportation,
use of all. Bamboo fabric is similar to the softness of
silk. Since the fibres are without chemical treatment,
they are naturally smoother and rounder with no sharp
spurs to irritate the skin, making bamboo fabric
hypoallergenic and perfect for those who experience
allergic reactions to other natural fibres such as wool
or hemp. On that same note, bamboo is also
antibacterial and antifungal, allowing it to naturally
flourish and grow in the wild without the use of
pesticides or fertilisers. This beneficial quality of the
plant remains in its textile form, killing all bacteria
keeping the wearer feeling fresher and odour free for
longer, making the garment healthier and more
hygienic.
Unlike many of the other fabrics, bamboo is extremely
breathable. The cross-section of the bamboo fibre is
covered with micro-gaps giving the fabric better
moisture absorption and ventilation. As a result, it is
able to keep the wearer almost two degrees cooler in
the heat and noticeably warmer in the cold. Bamboo
fabric is also "anti static and UV protective as it cuts
out 98 per cent of harmful UV rays" providing the
wearer with another beneficial quality from bamboo
made clothing.
History of bamboo fibre
Historically, the most flexible item that could be made
from bamboo was paper, which was invented in China
centuries ago. Bamboo, among other materials, was
used in the construction of some types of this early
paper.Bamboowasusedformanyotherthingsbesides
paper during this time, including houses, weapons,
needles and most products we use wood to make
today.
Bamboo fibre started being used for clothing in the
20thcentury.InChinaandJapan,thinstripsofbamboo
were woven together into hats and shoes. One
particular design of bamboo hats was stereotypically
connected with rural life, being worn almost
universally by farmers and fishermen in order to
protect their heads from the sun.
Qin and Han dynasties appeared with a bamboo cloth,
take bamboo crown, made of bamboo products
bamboo rain shoes, bamboo hats, bamboo umbrella,
still in use.
pulping the bamboo grass until it separates into thin
threads of fibre, which is then spun and dyed for
weaving into cloth.
Extraction process of bamboo fibre
Two types of processing are done to obtain bamboo
fibres- Mechanical processing and Chemical
processing.
Chemical processing: As shown in fig 2; it’s
basically hydrolysis alkalization. The crushed
bamboo is "cooked" with the help of Sodium
hydroxide (NaOH) which is also known as caustic
soda or lye into a form of regenerated cellulose fibre.
Hydrolysis alkalization is then done through carbon
disulfide combined with multi phase bleaching.
Although chemical processing is not environmental
friendly but it is preferred by many manufacturers as
it is a less time consuming process.
Mechanical processing: In this method, the
crushed bamboo is treated with biological enzymes
as shown in fig 3. This breaks the bamboo into a
mushy mass and individual fibres are then combed
out. Although expensive, this process is eco-friendly.
Dyeing and finishing of bamboo
textile
Light sergeing, enzyme de -sizing, moderate bleaching
andsemi-mercerizingshouldbeappliedtothebamboo
fabric during its dyeing and finishing process. Avoid
drastic conditions and use small mechanical tension.
Dyeing and finishing
Light singeing, enzyme desizing, moderate bleaching
andsemi-mercerizingshouldbeappliedtothebamboo
textile substrate prior to its dyeing and finishing
Definition
Bamboo fibre is a regenerated cellulose fibre, which
is produced from bamboo pulp, processed from
bamboo culms. The bamboo fibre is then made by
Fig 1: Protecting clothing made from bamboo
Bamboo
ApplicationApplicationApplicationApplicationApplication
of contemporaryof contemporaryof contemporaryof contemporaryof contemporary
fibres in apparelsfibres in apparelsfibres in apparelsfibres in apparelsfibres in apparels

APPAREL VIEWS / FEBRUARY 2011 49
Fig 3: Mechanical processing of bamboo fibre
process. It is better to avoid drastic conditions and
use low mechanical tension.
Singeing: Bamboo fabric can be signed in moderate
condition.
Desizing: Desizing rate should be over 80 per cent.
Scouring: Pure bamboo normally needs no scouring;
sometimes washing with a little alkaline soap may
serve the purpose. The scouring process should be
made in terms, if fibre blend contains cotton. When
pure bamboo fabrics are scoured, the alkali should
not be over 10 g/litre but can be applied in accordance
with the thickness of fabrics.
Bleaching: The processing should be made in terms
of the specification and thickness of fabrics.
Mercerizing: Fabrics of bamboo fibres normally
should not need mercerizing due to their sound luster
and poor anti-alkaline properties. However, in some
cases, to increase their absorbance capacity to
dyestuff, it can be mercerized.
Dyeing: Reactive dyestuffs are used during dyeing
process - alkali should not be over 20 g/litre;
temperature should not be over 100°C. During drying
process,lowtemperatureandlighttensionareapplied.
Yarn dyeing: Alkali should not be over 8 g/l in yarn
dyeing. Chemically-manufactured bamboo rayon has
some wonderful properties which are adored by
conventional and eco-aware designers and
consumers involved in towel sector:
Characteristics of bamboo fibre
• Smooth, soft and luxurious feel: It has a basic
round surface which makes it very smooth and to
sit perfectly next to the skin. Bamboo apparel is
softer than the softest cotton, and it has a natural
sheen like silk or cashmere. Bamboo drapes like
silk or satin yet is less expensive and more durable.
Bamboo/organic cotton blends are also extremely
soft but heavier in weight
• Allergy reduced: Bamboo’s organic and naturally
smooth fibre properties are non-irritating to the
skin,makingitidealforpeoplewithskinsensitivities
or other allergies and dermatitis.
• Good absorption ability: Bamboo fibre absorbs
and evaporates sweat very quickly. Its ultimate
breathability keeps the wearer comfortable and dry
for a very longer period.
• Temperature adaptability: Fabrics made from
bamboofibrearehighlybreathableinhotweatherand
alsokeepthewearerwarmerincoldseason.Bamboo
isnaturallycooltothetouch.Thecross-sectionofthe
bamboo fibre is filled with various micro-gaps and
micro-holes leading to much better moisture
absorption and ventilation. It is also very warm in
cold weather, because of the same micro structure
as the warm air gets trapped next to the skin.
• Antibacterial: Bamboo is naturally antibacterial,
Fig 2: Chemical processing of bamboo fibre
antifungal and anti-static. Bamboo has a unique
anti-bacteria and bacteriostatic bio-agent named
"bamboo kun," which bonds tightly with bamboo
cellulose molecules during the normal process of
bamboo fibre growth. This feature gets retained in
bamboo fabrics too. It makes bamboo fabrics
healthier, germ free and odour free
• Thermal regulating: Bamboo fabrics are warm
in the winter and cool in the summer. Bamboo
clothing's excellent wicking properties also make
it ideal for warm summer days.
• UV protection: Bamboo naturally provides added
protection against the sun's harmful UV rays.
• Antistatic: Due to its high moisture absorption
property,bamboofabricresultsintheenhancement
of anti-static property
• Green and bio-degradable: As a regenerated
cellulose fibre, bamboo fibre was 100 per cent
made from bamboo through high-tech process.
They are all three-four year old new bamboo, of
good character and ideal temper. The whole
distilling and producing process in our plant is green
process without any pollution. It produces natural
and eco-friendly fibre without any chemical
additive. As a natural cellulose fibre, it can be 100
per cent bio-degraded in soil by micro-organism
and sunshine. The decomposition process doesn't
cause any pollution environment. Bamboo fibre is
praisedas"thenatural,green,andeco-friendlynew-
type textile material of 21st century"
• Breathable and cool: Bamboo fibre gives human
skin a chance to breathe free. Because the cross-
section of the bamboo fibre is filled with various
micro-gaps and micro-holes, it has much better
moisture absorption and ventilation. With this
unparalleled micro-structure, bamboo fibre apparel
can absorb and evaporate humans sweat in a split
of second. According to authoritative testing
figures, apparels made from bamboo fibres are 1-2
degrees lower than normal apparels in hot summer.
Apparel made from bamboo fibre is crowned as
Air Conditioning Dress
• Cost: The cost differences range from 20 per cent
to 40 per cent more expensive than cotton
Advantages
Apart from above characteristics, bamboo also have
the below benefits
• The fabric is light and strong
• Has the ability to take colours well
• Anti-fungalandhypoallergenic-evenafter50washes
• Dries quickly - about twice as fast as most other
fabrics
• Perfect travelling clothes - the wrinkles fall right
out so there's no need to iron
• Bamboo is less than half the price as compare to
cashmere
Disadvantages
• Bamboo loses 60 per cent of its strength when
wet,soitmaynotbesuitableforindustrialuniforms
and washings
• It is not ideal for screen printing
• Expensive as compare to cotton
Environmental benefits of bamboo
• Cleans the air: Bamboo gives clean air to breathe,
consumes carbon dioxide and, because bamboo
forests are so dense, returns 30 per cent more
oxygen to the atmosphere than trees. Some
bamboo sequester up to 12 tonne of carbon dioxide
from the air per hectare
• Requires less energy, water to grow: It takes
much less energy to grow and sustain bamboo than
othersimilartreesandplantsusedforfibreproduction.
Bamboo plantations require very little maintenance.
Bambooalsorequiresverylittlewaterandcansurvive
drought conditions as well as flooding
Bamboo Fiber Production Circle
Bamboo Bamboo sheet Refined Bamboo Pulp Bamboo Cellulose Bamboo Fibre

APPAREL VIEWS / FEBRUARY 201150
Fig 4: Absorption test of bamboo fibre
• Reclaims land: Because of its rapid growth and
root structure, bamboo can, in a very short time,
reclaim land destroyed by overgrasing and over-
building and clean the soil of toxins.
• Can be grown without pesticides: Bamboo can
be grown without pesticides or chemicals because
of its own anti-bacterial agent
• Can be harvested sustainably: Bamboo is one
of the fastest growing plants on the planet, making
it a high yield renewable resource. It can be
selectively harvested annually and is capable of
complete regeneration without need to replant
• 100 per cent bio-degradable: Unlike synthetic
fibres, which incorporate petroleum additives,
bamboo clothing is safe for municipal disposal
programmes, whether by landfill or incineration
• Soil erosion:Theextensiverootsystemofbamboo
actually helps preserve soil and prevent soil
erosion. The bamboo plants root system creates
an effective watershed, stitching the soil together
along fragile river banks, deforested areas, and in
places prone to mudslides. It also greatly reduces
rain run-off
• Deforestation: Bamboo planting can slow
deforestation, providing an alternative source of
timber for the construction industry and cellulose
fibre for the textile industry. Tree plantations have
to be chopped down and terminated at harvest but
bamboo keeps on growing. When a bamboo cane
is cut down, it will produce another shoot and is
ready for harvest again in as little as one year
Physical parameters of bamboo fibre
• Testing condition: Temperature : 20°C
• Relative humidity: 65 per cent
• Fibre length: 8-12mm
• Fibre diameter:0.03-0.18mm
Applications of bamboo fibre
After gaining popularity as a green fibre, bamboo has
found place in significant fashion circles. However,
questions are often raised due to textile chemicals
applied to bamboo for making them usable as fibres
for clothing and other textile products.
Bamboo intimate clothing
• Socks • Underwear • Bathing suits
• Bathing suits cover ups • Bath robes
• Sleepwear • Active wear
Bamboo T-shirt
In most cases people prefer to be dressed in T-shirts
and singlet tops on summer days. Individuals like
the T-shirt to look attractive, are comfortable in the
right colour and made with an excellent fabric.
Generally, people only know about the cotton T-shirts
however a lot of people don’t have any idea about the
Table 1:
Table 2: Comparison between bamboo and cotton
bamboo T-shirts. If one is looking for a t-shirt which
is the best in quality, is super comfortable, with good
feeling and is environmentally friendly, bamboo fabric
is the best solution.
Bamboo T-shirts happen to be incredibly comfortable
and soft. Made from organic and natural bamboo,
they fit true to size, do not shrink or fade. Relish the
experience. The mens bamboo T-shirts and ladies
singlet tops are very well-liked for everyday wear.
These particular environmentally-friendly materials
are manufactured especially to provide an easy but
attractive look.
Items Units Reference unit
Dry tensile strength cN/dtex 2.33
Wet tensile strength cN/dtex 1.37
Dry elongation at break % 23.8
Linear density percentage of deviation % -1.8
Percentage of length deviation % -1.8
Over length staple fibres % 0.2
Over cut fibres mg/100g 6.2
Defects mg/100g 6.4
Oil stained fibres mg/100gm 0
Coefficient of dry tenacity variation % 13.45
Whiteness % 69.6
Moisture regain % 13.03
Quality Cotton Bamboo Comments
Abrasion resistant Both are very abrasion resistant
Absorbency Bamboo is three times more absorbent
Strength Both are strong
Machine dryable X Not recommended for bamboo
Resiliency X Bamboo is very resilient
Lustre X Bamboo is naturally lustrous
Elasticity X Bamboo is more elastic
Pesticide free crop X Bamboogrowswithouttheneedofpesticidesandfertilizers
UV protected X Bamboo naturally blocks UV rays
Anti-bacterial X Cotton is not anti-bacterial
Insulation X Cotton fabrics when wet loses its insulating power
Moisture wicking X Cotton fabrics cant wick
Soft X Bamboofeelslikecashmere.Cottonisabrasiveagainsttheskin
Bio-degradable X Bamboo is more bio-degradable
Enriches the soil X Bamboo enriches
Properties Bamboo Viscose Cotton
Linear density(dtex) 1.67 1.67 1.5-1.7
Single dry tensile strength(cN/dtex) 2.2-2.5 2.5-3.1 2.5-3.1
Single wet tensile strength(cN/dtex) 1.3-1.7 1.4-2.0 1.5-2.1
Dry tensile elongation % 14-18 18-22 8-10
Moisture regain% 13 13 8.5
Absorbency rates% 90-120 90-110 45-60
Specific density 1.32 1.32 1.5-1.6
Double length(mg/100g) 1.2 1.2 -
Mass specific resistance 1.09x106
2.29x107
105
Table 3: Physical parameters compared with other fibres

APPAREL VIEWS / FEBRUARY 2011 51
Bamboo for kids wear
Bamboo wear is also excellent for children. Children's
and babies bamboo wear is luxuriously soft, but
practical, bamboo fibres render this breathable and
are naturally antibacterial. Even children will notice
thedifferencewhentheyfirstwearit. Allofthebamboo
fabric chosen without the harmful chemicals is used
in the manufacture of this fabric, making it an ideal
selection for kid’s sensitive skin. Bamboo is incredibly
silky and comfortable much more than the softest
cotton. Bamboo wear is actually pre-washed so no
worry about shrinking.
Home furnishings fabrics
• Sheets • Comforters • Duvet covers
• Pillow shams • Pillows • Bed skirts
• Table cloth • Drapes • Blinds • Sofa slipcovers
• Zhejiang Kingtex Co. Ltd. - China
• Zhejiang Texwell Textile Co. Ltd. - China
• Jeen Wei Enterprise Co. Ltd. - China
• Abalioglu Textile Industries Inc. - Turkey
• Eren Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S - Turkey
• Bilkont Dis Ticaret Tekstil Sanayi A.S - Turkey
• Table Bay Spinners - South Africa
• Richfield Tang Knits Ltd. - Mauritius
• Tenbro - China
Fashion trends
Due to the global focus that environmental issues
has received, Bamboo-fibre products have caught the
fancy of consumers, who are considering its many
eco-friendly advantages. It is no wonder experts have
predicted that bamboo-fibre products will set new
fashiontrendsforautumn-winterclothinglikescarves,
ties and outdoors sportswear. There are many local
clothing, textiles and fabric enterprises that produce
bamboo-fibre products. The companies are reaping
rich harvests from the sale of bamboo-fibre products.
One such success story is that of Jigao Chemical
Fibre Co. Ltd., whose products made of bamboo-fibre
have become popular both in the domestic as well as
the overseas markets. Currently, Hebei Jigao's
products occupy over 90 per cent of China's bamboo-
fibre market. Such is its rage that despite high prices,
bamboo-fibre products sell very well in the market. A
piece of leisure suit and jacket made from bamboo-
fibrecosts40,000&45,000yuanrespectivelyinJapan.
Conclusion
Bamboo fabric is a natural textile that has been
growinginpopularityinrecentyears,bothforitsquality
and its environmental friendliness. Bamboo and
people's lives, involve the use of bamboo clothing,
food, shelter, transportation, use of all. In the apparel
side, bamboo clothing plays an important role in the
origin and development. Bamboo fabric is used for a
range of clothing, such as shirts, dresses, socks and
slacks and because of its antimicrobial properties, is
ideal for active wear. Other applications include
bathrobes and towels, foot mats, mats, bed clothes,
underwear, close-fitting T-shirts, and stockings.
Bamboo fabric products include sweaters, bath-suits,
mats, blankets, towels, nappies (diapers), underwear
and other lingerie, all types of clothing, and linen.
Bamboo is often blended with 30 per cent cotton
to add structure to garments. Bamboo is also used
for sheets and pillowcases, because its smooth
fibre lends a satin feel; bamboo sheets also feel
warmer in winter and cooler in summer. The fastest
growing grass species in the world, in fact, making
them one of the most easily renewable natural
resources we have. Aside from being more
sustainable, bamboo fabric is also light and strong,
with excellent wicking properties
Bathroom Textiles
• Hand towels • Wash cloths • Body towels
• Tub mats • Bath rugs • Decorative lid covers
• Shower curtains
Non woven fabrics
• Sanitary napkins • Face masks (industrial and
medical) • Food grade packaging • Mattresses
Medical and hygienic clothing & products
• Sanitary towels • Gauze • Bandages
• Absorbent pads • Surgical wear
• Doctors coat • Medical masks
Nanotechnology in bamboo clothing
industry
New nano-technologies are also being introduced into
the bamboo clothing industry. It is based on a bamboo
clothing line made from nano-particles of bamboo
charcoal. In this process, bamboo is dried and burned
in 800°C ovens until it is reduced to charcoal. The
bamboo is processed and converted into fine nano
particles which are then embedded into cotton,
polyester or nylon fibres. This conventional fibre yarn
that contains trapped bamboo charcoal nano particles
is then woven into fabrics mostly socks and blankets
now. It is reported that the active bamboo charcoal
ingredients will only remain active in the clothing for
about six months of active use.
Caring for bamboo clothes
Like average garment, bamboo fabric can be washed
with everything. For the best maintenance of bamboo
clothing, it should be washed using the gentle cycle,
cold (up to 60°C) or luke warm water, where line dried
is preferred. Because bamboo fabric loses some of
its strength when it is very wet, putting bamboo
clothing into a lingerie bag will protect it during the
wash cycle. Colour bamboo clothes can also be
washed with whites or lighter shade even in the first
wash. Due to the absorbency of bamboo the dye is
absorbed into the yarn and does not bleed.
It is best to refrain from machine drying even on low
heat as it may cause the garment to lose its shape
sooner than if line dried is done only. Air-dry a bamboo
fabric item for best results. Drying it flat on a drying
rack is the preferred method. If it is hang on a
clothesline, it is recommended to double the garment
to avoid stretching or distortion.
Garments may be ironed with low heat and keep your
iron setting no higher than 'synthetic'. Bamboo cannot
handle the same degree of heat as a cotton garment.
Do not use any steam on bamboo fabric; this can
cause noticeable rings to appear on the fabric. If this
happens, wash the clothes again. Never bleach
bamboo fabric, Chlorine bleaches often cause
yellowing.
Bamboo fabric manufacturers
• Zhejiang Texwell Textile Co.,Ltd - Mainland China
• Lee Yaw Textile Co. Ltd. - Mainland China
Washing and maintenance of bamboo fibre products
NIFT, Bangalore & Pallavi Jain, MFTech
(Student), NIFT Bangalore (Author can be

APPAREL VIEWS / MARCH 201146
Basically, there are two broad categories of fibres: Natural fibres like cotton, wool, hemp, ramie and silk; and
artificial fibres synthesized out of petrochemicals like nylon and polyester. Lyocell falls somewhere in-
between. The raw material for lyocell is cellulose from wood pulp, a mix of hardwood trees like oak and birch,
although Lyocell branded lyocell is made from eucalyptus trees, which are broken down chemically in a soupy
sludge that is squirted out a showerhead spinneret and reformed as fibres. Lyocell is more accurately described
as a recovered or regenerated fibre, although manufacturers’ makes a distinction between regenerated fibres
and lyocell which they describe as a "solvent spun fibre" that keeps the cellulose structure closer to that found
in nature. This makes it a natural fabric, and it is noted for its durability and strength, in addition to its eco-
friendly manufacturing techniques.
History
The first fabrics made with wood pulp were made as far back as the mid 19th century. They were not universally
accepted or very profitable. At the end of the 19th century, a method for creating rayon out of wood cellulose
became popular, and rayon became one of the first manmade fibres, as a silk substitute, and an inspiration to
later produce lyocell. Success of rayon particularly in the latter 20th century fuelled interest in making other
products from wood pulp.
Application of contemporary
fibres in apparels
Lyocellisafabricmostknow
better by its brand name
Lyocell owned by Lenzing
Fibres of Austria. Lyocell
heralds the beginning of a
new age in fibre technology.
Completely natural, Lyocell
offers a unique combination
of the most desirable
properties of manmade and
natural fibres: Soft as silk,
strong as polyester, cool as
linen, warm as wool and as
absorbent as cotton.
Lyocell

APPAREL VIEWS / MARCH 2011 47
The solvent-spun cellulosic fibre lyocell was first produced commercially in the
United States in 1992 by Courtaulds Fibres (now Acordis Cellulosic Fibres), an
international supplier of rayon. The company used the brand name Lyocell. Lenzing
AG had acquired patents and research on lyocell from American Enka when it
bought that company's rayon operation in 1992. In 1996, lyocell became the first
new generic fier group in 30 years to be approved by the Federal Trade Commission
as the properties and production processes were unique to designate it as a
separate fibre group. Since then, lyocell has realised increasing visibility and
acceptanceintheapparelmarket,especiallyindesignerandbetterpricedgarments.
Its versatility and desirable properties provide many advantages, both functional
and aesthetic.
Federal Trade Commission Definition for Lyocell Fibre: A cellulose fibre obtained by
an organic solvent spinning process where:
1) “Organic solvent” means a mixture of organic chemicals and water, and
2)“Solvent spinning” means dissolving and spinning without the formation of a
derivative
Although it is given a separate generic name, the FTC classifies Lyocell as a sub-
category under “Rayon.”
Fibre properties
A manufactured fibre composed of regenerated cellulose. Lyocell has excellent
properties of cellulose fibres. Lyocell fabric feels very cool, moisture permeability;
texture can be changed to cotton wool, silk and all kinds of feelings. It is having
similar hand and drape as rayon, but is stronger, more durable, and in many cases
machine washable. It has a subtle luster and is rich in colour. Lyocell possesses
low shrinkage characteristics, as well as good absorbency and wrinkle resistant
qualities.
Lyocell fibre characteristics
• Texture
• Soft, simulates silk, suede, or leather touch
• Great for sensitive skin
• Loycell smooth fibre surface feels soft and supple against the skin and its
incredible wicking abilities keep the skin dry
• Strength
• High tensile strength
• Excellent wet strength (2X rayon dry/3X rayon wet)
• Lyocell fibres dry strength close to the polyester fibre, wet strength decreased
only 15 per cent
• Moisture absorbent
• Highly absorbent
• It has natural breathability and 50 per cent greater moisture absorption than
cotton
• Swells radially when wet
• Due to its moisture management, it is also anti-bacterial
• Dyeing
• Lyocell was created with colour in mind, because of the fibres' high absorbency
• The fabrics can be dyed to high quality standards
• Very versatile fabric dyeable to vibrant colours, with a variety of effects and
textures
• Easily dyeable to strong colour-fast shades
• Drape
• Good drapability
• Temperature
• Does not melt
• Outperforms cotton and rayon at high temperatures
• Fibrillation
• This eco-fabric has controllable fibrillation (the very fine hairs found on the
outer fibres), which can be manipulated into everything from suede-like softness
to a silky smooth finish
• Dimensional stability
• Low shrinkage
• Good wash ability
• Can be hand washable
• Bio-degradable
• The fibre is economical in its use of energy and natural resources, and is fully
bio-degradable
• Durability
• Wrinkle resistant
Since Loycell is a manufactured fibre, the diametre and length of fibres can be
varied. Lyocell can be made into micro fibres (very fine fibres), offering depth and
body to fabrics combined with luxurious drape. Short staple length fibres give a
cotton-like look to fabrics. Long filament fibres are successful in silk-like end uses.
Lyocell blends well with other fibres including wool, silk, rayon, cotton, linen,
nylon, and polyester. It successfully takes many finishes, both functional and
those designed to achieve different surface effects and dyes easily. Overall, lyocell
is a versatile fibre with many desirable properties.
Important features of Lyocell fibres
Moisture
Unlike synthetic fibres Lyocell offers unique moisture transport, as a result of nano
technology. The nano technology of the fibre supports this natural fibre property,
guaranteeing optimum conditions for the skin. Synthetic fibres are unable to absorb
moisture into the inside of the fibre. The illustration shows that in contrast to
cotton and polyester fibres, Lyocell controls and regularly absorbs moisture. Also
Lyocell absorbs 50 per cent more moisture than cotton. By contrast polyester
does not absorb moisture.
4000B.C. 3000B.C. 2600B.C. 200B.C. 1939 NOW
WOOL SILKCOTTON LINEN POLYESTER
VISCOSE
TENCEL®
Moisture transport is largely determined by climate. Depending upon climate
conditions, Lyocell either absorbs or releases moisture. Compared to other fibres,
Lyocell features the highest moisture absorption-rate: With air humidity at 65 per
cent, Lyocell still has unused capacity to absorb moisture from the skin.
The skin sensor
The skin is the largest human respiratory organ. Human skin acts as a protective
shell, regulates body temperature and maintains water balance. Lyocell supports
these body functions acting like a second skin. A subjective feeling of well-being
depends considerably on moisture absorption and on surface structure of the
fibres. Rougher fibres can lead to skin irritation. The extremely smooth surface of
Lyocell feels soft and pleasant to the skin. The reason
for the fine surface of the fibre is low fibre stiffness.
A comparison of the fibre surfaces makes the
difference patently obvious. Lyocell fibre has a
smoother and suppler surface than wool or cotton.
Wool tends to have a scaly surface, while cotton is
irregular and rough.
PolyesterCotton Lyocell
MOISTURE (VAPOR) MANAGEMENT WITH EXTREME AIR HUMIDITY
30%
25%
20%
15%
10%
05%
00%
POLYESTER COTTON WOOL TENCEL®
The water is coloured in Green

Lyocell is a godsend for anyone with sensitive skin. The combination of a smooth
fibre surface and excellent moisture absorption creates a positive environment
for healthy skin, making Lyocell ideal for anyone with sensitive skin.
According to recent dermatological studies, wearing clothing made of Lyocell
significantly improves comfort and promotes a feeling of well being. Also, Lyocell
is chemical free, an important factor for sensitive skin and another asset in
comparison to other fibres of a natural origin.
In many ways, lyocell is more similar to cotton than it is to rayon. Like other
cellulosic fibres, it is breathable, absorbent, and generally comfortable to wear. In
fact, lyocell is more absorbent than cotton and silk, but less so than wool, linen,
and rayon. It can take high ironing temperatures, but like other cellulosics will
scorch, not melt, if burned, and is susceptible to mildew and damage by silverfish.
Cellulosic fibres are not resilient, which means they wrinkle. Lyocell has moderate
resiliency. It does not wrinkle as badly as rayon, cotton, or linen, and some wrinkles
will fall out if the garment is hung in a warm moist area, such as a bathroom after
a hot shower. A light pressing will renew the appearance, if needed. Also, slight
shrinkage is typical in lyocell garments. Stability, overall, is similar to that of silk
and better than cotton or linen.
Lyocell has strength and durability. It is the strongest cellulosic fibre when dry,
even stronger than cotton or linen and is stronger than cotton when wet. Lyocell
is much stronger than rayon when wet. This property of high wet strength usually
determines the extent to which fabrics can be machine washed successfully.
Disadvantage of Lyocell
• Lyocell will shrink (approx. 3 per cent) after its first washing but retain its shape
after that
• The manufacturing process for lyocell is more expensive than cotton or rayon
• Lyocell is more expensive than most eco-fabric alternatives
• Lyocell fibre has a relatively low surface energy, which makes it difficult for dyes
to bind to it. This can cause fading
• Although Tencel fibres themselves are eco-friendly, some manufacturers use
processes such as enzyme baths, chemical processes, and dye treatments
that are in no way "green." These chemical treatments can cause allergies in
people with sensitivities.
Application of Loycell
• Denim
• Suits
• Casual clothes
• Underwear
• Shirts
• Knitted
Whether the need is denim for casual looks or sueded silk- like ensembles for
evening wear, lyocell can create the right look and the right fabric. This by nature
is the strongest cellulose fibre and thus ideal for hard-wearing textiles.
Initially, Lyocell was marketed as and can generally be found in high-end and
designer apparel. Production cost is greater than for cotton, making lyocell
more expensive in finished garments. However, as production increases, bulk
production, and costs decrease, expect to see more lyocell in moderately priced
apparel. Lyocell’s soft drape and luxurious hand make it very desirable in
women’s fashion garments as well as men’s shirts, particularly apparel
traditionally made from silk. Other lyocell end uses include denim, chino, and
chambray casual wear. Look for these fabrics in 100 per cent lyocell as well as
in blends with cotton, rayon, or polyester.
Lyocell gabardines take water resistant finishes for coatings. Other fabrics
successfully made from lyocell include jersey-knits, which exhibit a soft hand and
luster. Nowadays, lyocell is readily available and manufacturers already have
experience in handling it, look for more varieties of fabrics including knits of all
types, leotards and hosiery, velvets, velours, and corduroys.
It can be blended with nylon in which the nylon can be on the surface for durability
and wind and water resistance, while the lyocell has greater exposure on the
backing surface for warmth, absorbency, and comfort. Blends with wool and wool
with Lycra®
spandex and nylon have been successful. Blends of lyocell with cotton,
linen, and rayon, are becoming popular, especially for spring, summer, and fall
fashions. In addition, blends with silk and rayon are common, especially in
lightweight silky fabrics including those with sueded surfaces.
Lyocell denim
Lyocell is almost twice as strong as cotton. As a result, Lyocell jeans make
good sportswear. This new natural fibre provides all the durability required for
in a denim garment, yet it is not harsh to the body or tough-looking. With a
pair of Lyocell jeans wearer can even climb a mountain or ride a horse with
less fear of damage to the garment. For those who are very active, Lyocell
denim is the best choice.
More importantly, Lyocell denim
makes wearer feel much more
comfortable than cotton denim.
Lyocell denim breathes better. In
the winter, Lyocell denim keeps
wearer’s body warmer than
cotton denim. It is also lighter and
easier to pack than heavy jeans in
case of travelling to cold climates.
Hundred per cent Lyocell denim is luxurious, self-indulging, and prestigious. It’s
very soft to the touch and drapes finely. It flows nicely with the body's movements-
absolutely an upscale denim. Lyocell/cotton denim creates a look with more body
and excellent texture. For those who don't want as much draping, this fabric is a
good choice-very appropriated for menswear. Lyocell/rayon denim is best
conceived of as a compromise between 100 per cent Lyocell and Lyocell/cotton.
Lyocell/rayon makes very good denim, softly textured with a great feel. Lyocell/
rayon denim is less expensive than 100 per cent Lyocell.
Kids wear
The combination of properties in the Lyocell fibre quite simply makes it ideal for
kid’s wear. Kid’s skin is tender and sensitive and demands the very best materials.
Lyocell offers all of the properties so much in demand by the sensitive skin of
children. Perfect moisture management coupled with skin-sensory properties is
extremely important in the apparel next to children’s skin.
Lyocell’s smooth fibre surface prevents irritations to the skin. Lyocell’s purity is
another asset since it is not contaminated with agricultural chemicals. The perfect
moisture management of Lyocell -can absorb 50 per cent more moisture than
cotton – automatically supplies a natural hygiene. Thanks to the particularly high
LyocellCotton Wool
Typical properties of Lyocell fibre
Property Units Typical values
Denier g/9000m 1.25, 1.5, 2.2, 3.0
Cut length Mm 0.5 - 25 (precision cut)
Cross-section Round
Luster Bright, dull
Crimp percm 0 - 2.5
Finish Various
Dispersibility in water Very good
Comparison with other fibres
Property Units Lyocell Polyester Rayon Cotton
Dry tenacity g/den 4.5 - 5.0 4.5 - 5.5 2.3 - 2.7 2.3 - 2.7
Elongation at break, dry % 24 - 26 15 - 55 20 - 25 7 - 9
Wet tenacity g/den 3.9 - 4.3 4.5 - 5.5 1.4 - 1.8 2.8 - 3.4
Elongation at break, wet % 16 - 18 15 - 55 23 - 35 12 - 14
Waterimbibitions % 65 - 70 N/A 90 - 100 44 - 55
Cellulose DP 550 - 600 N/A 250 - 350 2 - 3000
Initial modulus, wet g/den* 250 - 270 N/A 40 - 60 200
*At 5 per cent strain
100% Tencel 8.9 OZ

APPAREL VIEWS / MARCH 2011 49
moisture absorption of Lyocell, the growth of bacteria can be nipped in the bud.
The moisture is transported from the skin directly into the inside of the fibre. Thus
no film of moisture, which can be the basis for bacterial growth, forms on the fibre.
Home textile
To some extent, lyocell is available in home products including bath towels,
sheets, pillowcases, and window treatments. Industrial uses for lyocell include
conveyor belts (because of the fibre's strength), ultra-low tar cigarette filters,
printer’s blankets, abrasive backings, carbon shields, specialty papers, and medical
dressings.
Caring of Lyocell
Washing: Because of its high wet strength and cellulosic or plant base, lyocell
can generally be either hand washed or machine washed and tumbled dried
successfully; however, some lyocell fabrics perform best when dry-cleaned.
Lyocell will shrink about 3 per cent with the first washing, and will resist shrinking
from then on.
Hand washable/line dry lyocell fabrics are frequently knits (often blended with
rayon or cotton) or wovens, such as chambray or sand washed "silk-like" fabrics.
When wet, fabrics made from lyocell become stiff and almost boardy. Although
this improves as drying occurs, undesirable stiffness may be removed by tossing
the garment into the dryer with a towel on low temperature to enhance the fabric's
softness and drape.
Machine wash and tumble dry lyocell fabrics are either treated with a special
finish or modified as they are manufactured. These fabrics can be machine washed
and tumble dried much like cotton or cotton/polyester blends are handled in the
homelaundry.Mediumtemperaturesettingsforwateranddryingarerecommended
as well as permanent press settings. If line dried, be sure to toss in the dryer with
a damp towel to soften the fabric after it is dry or nearly dry.
Dry cleaning: Lyocell fabrics that require dry cleaning may have either a smooth
or sanded surface. If machine washed or hand washed, it could develop a "hairy"
surface. In addition, water spotting may be noticeable in some fabrics that are
"spot" cleaned to remove stains. Wrinkling may occur after wetting the fabric.
Fabrics made from lyocell that is not specially treated to prevent fibrillation are
usually labelled as "dry clean only.” Reduced moisture and agitation during dry-
cleaning prevent fibrillation.
Ironing: Lyocell is a cellulosic fibre and, as a result, will wrinkle. It may need a
slight touch up with a warm iron. Because lyocell is similar to cotton, it can take
medium to high temperature settings. The exception is fabric made from fine
yarns or micro-fibres. Heat will penetrate these fabrics more quickly with the
potential for scorching. In many instances, however, wrinkles are likely to hang
out overnight, particularly in a warm, moist environment.
Bleaching: Generally, use of oxygen or chlorine bleaches should not damage the
lyocell fibre itself, but may affect either dyes or resin finishes applied to the
fabrics. Also, because the surface of some fabrics can be damaged when wet if
subjected to abrasion, avoid excessive rubbing during stain removal.
Storing: Moths and mildew can damage garments made by lyocell. It is necessary
that lyocell should be clean and dry when stored in a cool, well-ventilated location.
Don't store lyocell in plastic bags.
Conclusion
Today the world demands for “Organic, eco-friendly and bio-degradable” products.
Lyocell is the environmentally friendly fibre, and, the first truly revolutionary
fibre introduced to the market since Spandex 40 years ago, is made from wood
pulp. Virtually all of the chemicals used in the production process are reclaimed.
The resulting fibre, lyocell, is both bio-degradable and recyclable. It’s an
improved fibre, in terms of performance and properties. Its outstanding, essential
and desirable properties make it suitable for development of a variety of high
value-added woven and knitted products, an extremely broad market prospect
for various end uses. It is easy to conclude that the future scope for Lyocell fibre
is definitely vast
By Vasant R Kothari
Assistant Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
(Author can be contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)

APPAREL VIEWS / MAY 201142
SPF is a kind of regenerative plant fibre. SPF is the
only botanic protein fibre in the world, a newly
born guard to mankind's skin. This fibre appears from
soybean a plant which has enormous source and
affluent in nutrition. As it contains 18 amino acids
beneficial to the human body, and added anti-bacterial
elements, SPF offers a protective function to the skin.
SPF has been praised locally and internationally by
industry expert as the healthy and comfortable fibre
of 21st Century. The main component of soybean fibre
is it possesses the superiorities of many natural fibres
and synthesised ones and it is quite similar to those
of cashmere and silk, featuring fine denier, low density
and good tenacity and elongation. The resulting fabric
can give cashmere-like hand touch, silk-like luster,
cotton-like moisture conduction and wool-like warm
retentiveness. The invention of SPF is the contribution
of mankind to the protection of natural rare minerals,
the protection of resources, the care of the
environment and the consideration of the global
balance. It is an active fibre, a new green textile fibre.
SPF is an advanced textile fibre. It is also known as
"vegetable cashmere" or "soy silk." It is made from
the soybean cake after oiling by new bioengineering
technology. Firstly, the spherical protein is distilled
from the soybean cake and refined. Secondly, under
the functioning of auxiliary agent and biological
enzyme, the space structure of spherical protein
changes, and then protein spinning liquid is confected
by adding high polymers, and then thirdly, after the
liquid is cooked, the 0.9~3.0dtex fibre is produced by
wet spinning, and stabilised by acetalising, and finally
cut into short staples after curling and thermoforming.
SPF is praised as the health, comfortable and green
fibre of the new century. Its major material is soybean
protein from the farmers, massive in quantity and
inexpensive in price, and using it will not cause the
predatory development on the resources but is helpful
to resources' recovery and redevelopment. The
production of SPF will not bring pollution to the
environment, as the accessory and auxiliary agent
used are not poisonous, while the residue after the
protein extracted can be still used as feed. SPF has
not only the superiorities of the natural fibres but also
the physical properties of synthetic ones. SPF meets
the people's demand of comfortable and beautiful
wearing and also conforms to the trend of easy care.
It is the potential material for middle and high class
clothing in textile industry.
History of SPF
In 1932-33 the Ford Motor Company spent millions of
dollars on soybean research. Henry Ford promoted
the soybean, helping to develop uses for it both in
food and in industrial products. By 1935 every Ford
car had soy involved in its manufacture. For example,
soybean oil was used to paint the automobiles as
well as fluid for shock absorbers.
In 1935, Ford hired chemists Robert Boyer and Frank
Calvert to produce artificial silk. They succeeded in
making a textile fibre of spun soy protein fibres,
hardened or tanned in a formaldehyde bath, which
was given the name Azlon by the Federal Trade
Commission.Theproductionstartedin1939andfibres
were used to make upholstery for motorcars. It was
also usable in the making of suits, felt hats, necktie
and overcoats.
ThoughpilotproductionofAzlonreached5,000pounds
per day in 1940, it never reached the commercial
market. Then the production was taken over by the
Drackett Products Co. and a new plant was set up in
1949. After 10 years of hard work of Li Guanqi's as
well as the contribution and assistance of many other
departments and organisation, soybean fibre has
come into birth and its industrialisation started.
China began the commercial production of soybean
fibre in 2001 in line with the call from China National
Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC). According rough
statistics, over 500 textile mills have been concerned
withthedevelopmentandapplicationofsoybeanfibre.

APPAREL VIEWS / MAY 2011 43
Microscopic features
Vertical shear of SPF is irregular and has moisture
absorbing grooves. When lengthwise fibres are
examined microscopically, longitudinal lines called
striations are seen. In cross section it appears
dumbbell shaped and has Island-in-a sea structure.
Physical parameters of soybean fibre
No. Items Unit Figure
1 Moisture regain Per cent 8.6
2 Frictionforce F/gf 33.4
3 Breaking strength CN/dtex =>2.5
4 Drape coefficient Per cent 7
5 Antistatic property g/cm2 10.33
6 Elastic recover Per cent 55.4
7 Crimp ratio Per cent 1.65
Characteristics of SPF
• Cashmere feel: The fabric made of SPF is soft,
smooth, light. It has cashmere feel, but smoother
than cashmere; it is as comfortable to the skin as
human's second skin
• Dry and comfortable: The moisture absorption of
SPF is similar to that of cotton fibre, but its
ventilation is more superior to of cotton. Knitting
fabricofSPFhassoft,smoothandlighthandlewhich
isthesameasthatoffabricsmadefromsilkblended
with cashmere
• Luxurious appearance: SPF fabric has joyful silky
lustre with perfect drape and elegant; fabrics of
yarn in high count has fine and clear texture and is
classical shirting
Vertical shear of SPF under
Electron microscope
Cross section of SPF under
Electron microscope
Property SPF Cotton Viscose Silk Wool
Breaking strength 3.8-4.0 1.9-3.1 1.5-2.0 2.6-3.5 0.9-1.6
(CN/dtex) 2.5-3.0 2.2-3.1 0.7-1.1 1.9-2.5 0.7-1.3
Dry breaking 18-21 7-10 18-24 14-25 25-35
extension (Per cent)
Initialmodulus(kg/mm2
) 700-1300 850-1200 850-1150 650-1250
Loop strength (Per cent) 75-85 70 30-65 60-80
Knot strength (Per cent) 85 92-100 45-60 80-85
Moisture regain (Per cent) 8.6 9.0 13.0 11.0 14-16
Density(g/cm3
) 1.29 1.50-1.54 1.46-1.52 1.34-1.38 1.33
Heat endurance Yellowing and Becoming brown Strength Keep stable when (Good)
tackifing at about after long time down after long time temperature
120° C processing at 150° C processing at 150° C <=148° C
(Bad) (Excellent) (Good) (Good)
Moth resistance Excellent Excellent Bad Bad
Fungus resistance Excellent Bad Excellent Excellent
Alkali resistance At general level Excellent Excellent Good Bad
Acid resistance Excellent Bad Bad Excellent Excellent
Ultraviolet resistance Good At the general level Bad Bad Bad
Wet
Dry
Physical parameters compared with other fibres
• Good colour fastness: The original colour of SPF is
ivory like tussah colour. It can be dyed by acid dyes
and active dyes especially the colour is quite fresh
and lustrous with the later dyes while quite stable
in the sunshine and perspiration. Compared with
silk products, the problem of freshness of colour
and stability of dyeing
• Function of health: SPF possesses many amino
acids necessary to human's body, so this sole
botanic protein fibre has the function of health that
no other fibre processes. Meeting people's skin,
the amino acid in soybean protein can activate the
collagen protein in the skin, resist tickling and
evaporate the skin. Bacteria resistant elements
are integrated in fibre's molecule chain, which
makes the fabrics keep the property of resisting
coli bacillus, staphylococcus aureus and candida
albicans permanently, this avoids the shortcoming
of not permanent effect when the anti-bacteria
function is added to the yarn when finishing
• Good physical property: Breaking strength of the
single SPF is over 3.0CNdtex, which is higher than
that of wool, cotton and silk and only lower than
that of polyester fibre of high intension. By now,
1.27dtex fibre can be spun into 6dtex yarn with
high quality, which can be used for high-quality and
high-density fabrics. Also, fabric of SPF has
outstanding anti-crease, easy-wash and fast-dry
property
• Anti-ultraviolet: Its anti-ultraviolet property is
superior to cotton fibre, much more superior to
viscose and silk. The absorptive of ultraviolet
radiation could reach upto 99.7 per cent
• Far infrared function: The emissivity of far-infrared
could reach upto 87 per cent, have the function of
heat-effect, promoting micro circulation of skin and
enforcing the immunity etc.
• Skin evaporation: Its amino acid can activate the
collagen protein in the skin, resist tickling and
evaporate the skin
• Antibacterial: Soybean protein fibre has
antibacterial properties that resist colibacillus,
staphylococcus aurous and candica albicans.
Fabrics made from soy protein fibre and linen or
other fibres are ideal for functional underwear and
summer wear
Blending of SPF
SPF can be blended well with other fibres to give
more features.
1) With cashmere:Blendedwithcashmerefibre,SPF
enhances the hand as well as lowers the
manufacturing cost of cashmere products. Gives
superior natural softness, lustres and comfort, as
well as anti-pilling and drape properties along with
intimacy to skin, easy care. E.g. suitable for
cashmere sweater, shawl and coat.
2) With mercerised wool: Blend gives a kind of knit
fabric quite similar to that of cashmere with colour
more abundant and better mercerised effect.
Produces excellent results taking advantage of
both fibres, the lustrous, soft hand and strength of
soybean fibre, and the elasticity and heat-retaining
properties of wool. As its shrinkage is less, it is
easier to wash and preserve. Spinning of high-
count yarn is possible. E.g. suitable for wool
sweater, interlock underwear and blanket
3) With silk: Combination has not only lustre and
elegance of silk but also a good draping. At the
same time, provides a solution to problems of
silk, such as poor resistance to staining from
perspiration and water, sticky to skin being wet,
poor light fastness and moisture permeability.
Higher quality can be achieved at a lower cost.
E.g. suitable for printing silk, knitting underwear,
sleepwear, shirts and evening dress
4) With combed cotton: Compared to cotton fabrics,
ithassofterhand,lustre,bettermoistureabsorption
and ventilation, quick dry, better bacteria
resistance, more comfort for wearing. Blend also
enhances the drape properties of cotton. E.g.
suitable for men's and women's underwear, T-shirt,
infant's wear, towel and beddings
5) With elastic fibre: Adding a small portion of
elastic fibre makes fabrics more elastic and easier
for washing and caring. It is quite active and
charming
6) With polyester and other synthetic fibres: The
blends raise the properties of comfort, beauty
and wrinkling resistance. E.g. suitable for spring
and summer fashion apparels, underwear, shirt
and sportswear
1. Soybean Plant
2. Soybean cakes
3. Raw Material
4.SPF+PVA
5.Wet spinning
6. SPF

APPAREL VIEWS / MAY 201144
Applications of soybean fibre
Yarn: Spinning methods have already been
established for 100 per cent soybean fibre, its blends
with natural (cotton, linen, wool, cashmere and silk)
and chemical (modified polyester, viscose, tencel,
polynosic etc.) fibres, and used in plants dealing with
cotton, silk and wool. Production of 100 per cent
soybean fibre yarns in the range of 21S-80S and
blendedyarns(28/72,30/70,45/55,60/40,70/30,85/
15 etc.) is possible.
Knit fabric: Soybean protein contained in the fibre
makes a superior, soft hand endowed with both
moisture absorbency and permeability, which makes
best application in knits and innerwear. Finished with
an anti-bacterial agent, health-care functionalities are
also given. It has great potential in its use in high-
grade knits and innerwear.
Woven fabric: Weaves made of soybean fibre blends
with other natural or chemical fibres have so far been
used in shirting and home textiles. A series of such
products, too, has already been developed. Their
special feature is the lustre and soft hand found in
silk. Their economic effects are extremely high.
SPF are soft and smooth as well as absorbent it is
ideal for products that are worn close to the skin such
as underwear, sleepwear, sportswear and children's
and infant's clothes, bed sheets, towels and blankets.
Undergarments: The undergarment made by SPF and
spandex, has incomparable and unimaginable
softness and comfortableness. Wearer’s skin enjoys
the pleasing breath after wearing SPF fabric, easy
stretch and fine caring especially “skin on skin”
feeling.
Baby wear: Eco-friendly soybean baby clothing offers
many benefits to baby. The breathability, warmth and
comfort are outstanding.
Skirt: SPF has lustre of silk which is joyful and an
excellent drape which makes the fabric elegant;
fabrics of yarn with high count has fine and clear
appearance and is ideal for top-level shirt.
Advantages
• Luxurious appearance
• Fabric is soft, smooth and light
• Naturallyhasthelight,smooth,softfeelofcashmere
• Light-reflecting properties gives the lustre of silk
• Elegant draping abilities
• Anti-wrinkle
• Provides better ventilation than cotton
• Higher breaking strength than wool, cotton or silk
• Good absorbency - moisture absorption equal to
cotton
• Warmth retention like wool
• No shrinkage
• Antibacterial qualities
• Colour-fast and has good dyeing properties
• Sunlight resistant
• Perspiration fastness
• Dries quickly and easily
• Very lightweight - perfect for undergarments or
summer wear and excellent for kids clothes
• Natural golden colour
Disadvantages
• Due to the low frictional coefficient, low crimp
number and low crimp stability of soybean fibre,
the soybean fabric is easy to fuzz
Caring for soybean clothes
• Soy clothing is easy wash and dries quickly
• Hand wash or gently cycle in cold water
• Get shrink in boiling water
• No dry cleaning is necessary
• Avoid chlorine bleaches
• Either air dry, or tumble dry with no heat
• Fast drying fibre
• Can be ironed on a low setting without steam
• High heat may damages the fabric
• Like many other fabrics, dark coloured soy materials
can bleed when laundered. Wash these separately,
or use a dye catcher sheet
• Hang or lay flat to dry
Environmental benefits of soybean
SPF fabrics are considered green. These consist of
by-products left over from processing tofu, soybean
oil, and other soy foods. The raw materials’ being a
natural product available in abundance and recyclable
there is no waste of resources. All auxiliary materials
and agents used in the production of SPF are harmless
to nature, and most auxiliaries used and even
unfinished products are recyclable. The bean dregs,
too, after having their protein extracted can be used
as fodder. SPF is a kind of environmentally protecting
product which does not harm to the environment,
atmosphere,waterandhumanbodyduringitsprocess
of production.
Conclusion
The invention of SPF is the contribution of mankind to
the protection of natural rare minerals, the protection
of resources, the care of the environment and the
consideration of the global balance. SPF produces a
positive effect on human skin improving its overall
energetic balance. Some of the healthy organic
components prevent early skin aging. SPF offers a
number of great properties for both the wearer and
the environment. It is a renewable natural resource
that is bio-degradable and eco-friendly.
SPF can fill up the vacancy in textile material
development of our country as a big textile-producing
country. It will inevitably stimulate the new product
development in the field of cotton, wool and spun silk
spinning, and bring the textile corporations new
development opportunity
Tee-shirt in ‘Luxury soy’ 55 per cent soy, 40 per cent
cotton, 5 per cent Lycra
NIFT, Bangalore & Pallavi Jain, MFTech
(Student), NIFT Bangalore (Author can be
2(x)ist's recently released soy collection features several
styles of briefs and a T-shirt made with 95 per cent soy-
based fabric (the rest is nylon).

APPAREL VIEWS / JUNE 201132
Modal is a wood pulp based cellulosic fibre, made out of pure wooden chips
from the beech tree, technically as the European Schneider Zelkova tree.
While viscose rayon can be obtained from the wood pulp from a number of different
trees, Modal uses only beech wood, thus it is essentially a variety of viscose
rayon; a generic name for modified viscose rayon fibre that has high tenacity and
high wet modulus.
ModalwasfirstdevelopedbyAustriabasedLenzingAGCompanywhotrademarked
the fabrics’ name, but now many manufacturers make their own versions. It was
initially imported from Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary and Germany; but now
for the Indian market, it is catered by Lenzing, Austria, which has tied up with
Rajasthan Textile Mills.
History of Modal
Modal fibres’ staple versions were initially developed in 1930s for industrial textiles
(in tires, conveyor belts and hose pipes), and for blending with rapidly growing
synthetics. Changes in viscose rayon processing such as spin conditions; chemical
solutions and stretching sequences produced viscose rayon fibres with increased
crystalline and thus greater strength. Additional developments in Japan in 1951
by S. Tachikawa led to the production of Modal fibre with high wet modulus called
polynosic fibre.
Definition
Modal fibres are defined in International Standard ISO 206: 999 (E) as high wet
modulus, high breaking strength regenerated cellulose fibres produced by using
particular viscose rayon, and regeneration bath compositions which allows greater
molecular orientation during stretch and coagulation of the fibres.
Again,ModalasdefinedbytheInternationalBureauforStandardisationofManmade
Fibres (BISFA) is a distinct viscose rayon fibre genre, which has a higher wet
modulus and satisfies a minimum value of tenacity in the wet stage at five per
cent elongation.
Characteristics of Modal
In many ways Modal acts like cotton, but it also have some significant advantages
over cotton.
Modal: Functional utility
1. Modal displays high dimensional stability, both for low shrinkage and low
unrecoverable extension. These benefits can be attributed to the morphological
structureofModal,whichimpartsexcellentelasticproperties.Itblendsbeautifully
with almost all textile fibres, viz. cotton, wool, silk synthetics and elastane
2. It is more hygroscopic in nature i.e. absorbs 50 per cent more water than cotton,
hence, keeps wearer cool during summers and warm during the winters
3. Modal is as strong as polyester with excellent wear resistance
Modal: Aesthetically appealing
1. Garments made from Modal fabrics can benefit by acquiring a desirable clean,
soft touch finish on the surface of finish. Its smoothness makes hard water
deposits less likely to adhere to the surface (say lime from hard water), so the
fabric stays soft through repeated washings. Thus the fabrics have a truly
pleasant touch and are comfort to wear
2. Unlike cotton, Modal fabrics show more resistance to shrinkage, has good
moisture regain and air permissibility, thus considered best for exercising
clothing and health suit
3. Reduced growth of bacteria when compared to cotton, if both stored for the
same long period of time; and doesn’t age like cotton
4. Modal has an advantage that it is less likely to fade or to form pills as a result
of friction
5. Modal imparts colour brilliance to fabrics and garments which remain bright
and true, also retains its appearance after several washes as shown in figure
below. This is because Modal takes up colour uniformly, deeply, and fast which
brings out the natural brilliance. Modal also maintain anti crease properties (in
blends) and have relatively easy care.
Physical parameters of Modal fibre
The “all skin” high tenacity yarns consist of finer and more uniform texture. When
coagulation and stretch occur together, before regeneration and crystallisation of
cellulose, structure has a fibrillar texture. The cross section is either circular or
bean shaped.
Modal: After 25 washes Cotton: After 25 washes

APPAREL VIEWS / JUNE 2011 33
The cross section analysis of both Modal and viscose rayon fibres are analysed
and are shown in figure below:
• Promodal: Produced by modal and Lyocell’s fibres blend of 65/35 per cent ratio.
Keep cool, 100 per cent natural and harmony is very well with skin. Expel steam
to outside, dimension stability is well. Presents to lower pilling value, better
using values and easy clean
• Modal/Nylon: Modal/nylon blend ratio is 80/20 per cent. Blend has a well-
known characteristics of modal which softness, do not disturbance to skin and
also higher wet and dry tensile strength fastness values, easy iron
Applications of Modal
Modal is preferred, where comfort and aesthetics, brightness and naturalness
are demanded. Today Modal is widely used in clothing as a replacement for
cotton, with an annual production of more than 4,000 tonne with the Indian textile
industries. Modal may be used on its own or in a blend with cotton, wool and other
synthetic fibres viz. spandex etc.
1. It is very soft and thus is popular for both clothing and house hold textiles
2. Used for tablecloths and bed linen (beddings), bathrobes, upholstery and in
home furnishings. Also used as outerwear, sportswear and leisurewear.
Microscopic view of Modal fibres
Physical parameters compared with other fibres
A typical comparison of properties of high wet modulus viscose rayon with
commonly used convectional fibres is as follows:
Blending of Modal
The fibre cross-section of Modal is similar to that of cotton ensuring that Modal
is an optimum blending partner. Modal cannot only be blended with cotton to get
optimum results. Like no other cellulose fibre, Modal® harmonises with other
fibres in a simple and uncomplicated manner, to give the desired properties.
• Modal/cotton: Both fibres’ based cellulosic and being natural presents 100 per
cent naturalness. Blend makes cotton soft and supple. It also improves the
fabric uniformity. Modal and cotton fibre’s colour fastness resembles to provide
uniform appearance which impart sheen and colour brilliance in the final product
• Modal/wool: Modal/wool blend fabric presents climatic, high comfortable,
softer, bright and woollen characteristics thanks to combination of wool fibres’
warm, softer, stuffed handle, taking shape with steam and modal fibre’s superior
characteristics
• Modal/Linen: Brightness,softerhandleandcomfortablecharacteristicsofmodal
and cooler and special effect of linen shows on blend. Presents to comfort and
elegant characteristics for long time by superior tenacity
• Modal/Polyester: Modal/polyesterblendyarnpresentsbrightness,softerhandle
and comfort with easy clean and higher tenacity characteristics. Fabric has
well-fitting structure
• Modal/Acrylic: Hasasofterhandleandsilkysurface.Presentstohighercomfort.
Pilling is lower
• Modal/Tencel: Modal/tencel blend presents better dimension stability; good
handle and comfort characteristics due to perfect combination of blend
Regular viscose rayon Modal fibre
Properties High-wet modulus Commonly used
Modal Viscose rayon Cotton Polyester Wool
Density (g/cm3) 1.53 1.51 1.55 1.39 1.31
Moisture regain (per cent) 11.8 per cent 12.5 per cent 8.5 per cent 0.4 per cent 13.5 per cent
Tenacity (GPD) 2.2-4.0 dry 1.2-3.0 3.0-5.0 3.0-5.8 0.8-2.0
3.8-5.0 wet 0.5-0.8 4.0 2.4-3.0 1.0
Bkng elongation ( per cent) 7.0 per cent dry 15-30 per cent 3-10 per cent 19-55 per cent 20-40 per cent
8.5 per cent wet 30 per cent 10 per cent 47 per cent 31 per cent
Work of rupture (mN/tex) 11.5 25 20-23 - -
Initial modulus (mN/tex) 13300 8850 5450 8830-10150 4300
As for 1.3 dtex Modal fibre, given by Ford and Courtaulds
3. Also find applications in undergarments and toweling purposes
4. Lenzing Modal is used exclusively for soft flowing tops and lingerie; exclusively
in knitwear markets having high-end apparel/non apparel products.
5. For socks and stockings, as well as in technical applications, such as tire cord,
abrasive ground fabric, rubber cloths and other coating supports
Advantages
• Absorbs 50 per cent more water than cotton
• Takes dye as well as cotton
• Lightweight fabric
• Has the appearance of silk: Lustre/sheen/gloss
• Holds colour when machine washed in warm water
• Fabric isn’t stiff, doesn’t become rigid when machine washed
• Can be repeatably washed and holds soft and smooth characteristics
Used as Leisure wear Comfortable sportswear

APPAREL VIEWS / JUNE 201134
• Soft and smooth against the skin
• Doesn’t pile as much as cotton
• Resistant to fading
• Resistant to shrinkage
• Resistant to mineral build up when washed again and again e.g. lime from
hard water
• Blends are more crease resistant
• Doesn’t age like cotton
Disadvantages
• 100 per cent Modal requires ironing
• 100 per cent Modal has tendency to pile due to long fibres
• Modal is more expensive than viscose rayon and cotton
• Processing the beech wood into a cellulose fibre is a man made process, which
uses more energy than processing natural fibres
Caring for Modal
Modal fabric needs to be cleaned gently to avoid damage and help the fabric stay
flexible and colourfast. When well cared for, this fabric is highly durable. Some
modal fabric items are delicate and should be hand washed in cool water with a
mild detergent, wrapped in a towel to squeeze out the water, and then dried flat in
the shade. Modal should not be washed or dried in high heat or subjected to
bleach and other harsh cleaners.
Stainsonmodalfabriccanberemovedwithhandscrubbingandagentledetergent.
The fabric should not be soaked or vigorously rubbed to remove stains. The earlier
a stain is treated, the better; when a stain is brand new, blotting with cool water
can sometimes flush out the stain, especially if a gentle detergent is added to
encourage the stain to lift.
If the fabric becomes wrinkled, it can be ironed at a low temperature. Fabric
that is dulled may benefit from ironing to restore the sheen by smoothing the
individual fibres. To avoid wrinkling while traveling, modal garments can be
rolled up as opposed to folded. Modal garments should not be left on hangers
as the prolonged hanging can cause the garments to distort and may also
break some of the fibres, weakening the garment and causing it to lose some
of its elasticity. Such garments should be stored flat or rolled to protect the
fabric while also avoiding wrinkles.
Environmental benefits of Modal
University of Utrecht in Netherlands carried out a life cycle analysis of Modal
fibres i.e. evaluated all of the environmental impacts caused by making fibres. The
topics examined were over fertilisation, the excess acidity of air, water and soil
consumption, global warming and the effects on human health. Another important
point was the consumption of non-renewable resources, as in the case, is raw
material wood. Utrecht came to conclusion that with Modal, the toxic load on
fresh water and soil is 100 times less as compared to cotton.
The yield of Modal is upto six times higher; and for their cultivation, needs 10-20
times less water in contrast to cotton. Since Modal uses beech wood i.e.
sustainably grown forest plantations, thus the land could not have been used for
any other purpose. Cotton on other hand requires agricultural land. Modal is 100
per cent bio-degradable fabric and can be recycled into lesser worth products e.g.
filling materials.
Conclusion
Modal, the second-generation viscose fibre, currently called the new "wonder"
fabric, fulfils man's eternal quest for a textile fibre that combines the best of both
aesthetics and utility performance. Today, Modal fibre is replacing the cotton from
its current dominant market very fast. Its eco-friendly, 100 per cent bio-degradable
characteristics has made it accepted globally within a short period of time
By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor, NIFT, Bangalore and
Prashant Verma, MF Tech (Student), NIFT Bangalore

APPAREL VIEWS / AUGUST 201136
Characteristics of Chlorofibre
Like polyester, Chlorofibre is a synthetic polymer that
is spun and turns into yarns and weaved to become
fabric. Chlorofibre is a soft, dry and comfortable fabric.
Chlorofibre fabrics are non-absorbent which is why it
is easy to keep dry. Its construction gives the fabric a
wicking effect, channelling perspiration from the skin
and expelled through the fabric. This helps to keep
the skin dry and increase level of comfort. The fabric
is soft and has an excellent isothermic property,
keeping away cold air and acting as an insulator.
It also has the highest thermal efficiency of any fibre
(natural or manmade) and, being totally non-
absorbent, is easy to launder and does not retain
odour. To make garments even more comfortable, it
is recommended to brush the inner surface of the
fabric to give a warm furry finish and use flat-locked
seams to ensure comfort when carrying a rucksack,
golf clubs or fishing bag.
Chlorofibre is likely to be PVC of low degree of
polymerisation, which accounts for its softness
without the need for plasticiser. Like most synthetic
Application ofApplication ofApplication ofApplication ofApplication of
contemcontemcontemcontemcontemporporporporporarararararyyyyy
fffffibribribribribres in appares in appares in appares in appares in apparelselselselsels
CHLCHLCHLCHLCHLOROROROROROFIBREOFIBREOFIBREOFIBREOFIBRE
The Chlorofibres are textile fibres synthetic made
from Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) with a base derived
from natural products (salt, coal and oil). The term
refers to all the textile fibres from PVC. They are sold
in cut fibres and like polyester, it can be spun and
turn into yarns and weaved to become fabric.
Chlorofibres are flammable and emit no droplets
during combustion but emit toxic gases. They dry
quickly, waterproof, crease-resistant and have a high
co-efficient of thermal, electric and acoustic.
Chlorofibre came to be noticed because of its
special properties. With high performance products
and fibre of innovative characteristics, it became
an established material. Rhovyl is the leading
manufacturer of synthetic PVC based fibres
polymers, it is likely to be protected against oxidative
degradation with antioxidant. Another redeeming
quality for Chlorofibre is that the fabric is surprisingly
soft and comfortable. As a good insulator, it has the
property of keeping out the cold, which has
traditionally relied on air (and perspiration) trapped in
the air pockets of wool and other thick fabrics.
Negative ion clothing
Chlorofibre generates static electricity with just a
mild friction with our skin. Chlorofibre is the only
fibre for clothing that produces negative ions. Static
electricity is generated easily when brushed against
the skin. The electrical charge in turn generated a
massive amount of negative ions. These ions are
trapped between the body and the fabric which acts
like a giant negative ion patch which allows the
beneficial negative ions to penetrate the skin.
This unique fibre can produce anions for a long time
and can adjust the balance and stability of the energy
insideandoutsidethehumanbody.Thefibrehasgreat
ability to keep warm in cool temperature and keep
cool in hot temperature, produce anions, remain
permeable and flame retardant thus improving the
health. Once the body is restored to the normal state,
the immune system can fight pathogens and thus
keep wearer healthy.
Blending of Chlorofibre
Like other fibres Chlorofibre can be blended from 25
to 30 per cent with other fibres either spinning or
during the weaving or knitting to give the desired
properties.
• Cotton: ThepropertiesofChlorofibrecombinedwith
those of cotton guarantee warmth, natural skin
breathability and extreme softness. Besides all
clothes made with cotton blend are machine
washable, dry quickly in the open air and need no
iron. Products can be worn as underwear or
outerwear to give the comfort and softness to body
• Wool: The performances of Chlorofibre combined
with those of wool guarantee a perfect insulation
against cold. Blend gives the combination of
warmth with softness and provides a dry skin in
every circumstance. Besides, products made of

APPAREL VIEWS / AUGUST 2011 37
this fibre that does not felt, are machine washable,
dry quickly and need no iron and can be used in
clothing (sweaters, underwear, lingerie and socks)
• Silk: Chlorofibre can be easily blended with silk
fibre. The breathable fibre ensures optimum
evacuation of moisture and offers a dry comfort
even during the effort. It provides an optimum heat
regulation whatever the atmospheric conditions.
The final product of this blend was developed to
meet the requirements of sportsmen. It is used in
clothing (sports clothes, technical underwear,
hosiery and polar knit)
• Aramid: Combination of Chlorofibre and aramid
fibre protects its user from heat and flames, while
remaining comfortable, supple and economical.
These garments may be dry cleaned, washed in
standard industrial washing machines. They dry
rapidly, do not need ironing and are fully bleach-
resistant.
Applications of Chlorofibre
Hosiery
Technique and comfort are the key words for
Chlorofibre used in hosiery. These characteristics
blend happily with other fibres to respond most
accurately to the requirements of the end-users.
Casual outerwear
Chlorofibre casual outerwear line gives the ability to
really take pleasure in looking casual while also giving
human body the added health benefits, like, the rapid
moisture permeability and added warmth that these
garments have to offer and feel protected all day long.
Kids wear
Chlorofibre provides the excellent range of kids’
garments to assist their bodies to breathe easier and
fight those seasonal allergy attacks by surrounding
them with a healthy an ionic atmosphere.
Undergarments
Warmth, softness and comfort are among the qualities
that make Chlorofibre such an essential part of the
world of underclothes. Chlorofibre undergarments
deliverpremiumhealthbenefitsprotectingagainstharsh
environments every day. They are light weight and
breathable to keep person dry and comfortable in the
areas where they need it the most.
Sporstwear
Comfort and performance are among the qualities that
make Chlorofibre so essential to the sports world. It
offers a range of products that meet the requirements
of sportsmen for technical clothes that are
comfortable, warm and breathable.
Socks
Socks made out of this fibre are the perfect socks for
activewear,businesswear,orevenstay-at-home-wear.
Thenegativeiontechnologyrepelsmoisture,protecting
against infection, foot odour, and forming bacteria.
Advantages
• Thermal insulation
• Wicking of moisture
• Flame retardancy
• Resistance to mildew and fungi
• Resistance to acids, bases, reducing and oxidising
agents
Health benefits
• Purify the blood, regulate its PH balance, and
stimulate circulation
• Rejuvenate cells, stimulate cell metabolism
• Strengthen the immune system
• Regulate autonomic nerves
Caring
Belowareafewtipsandthingstoavoidwhencleaning
and caring for Chlorofibre products.
Washing instructions
• Do not wash Chlorofibre garments with regular
clothing
• Temperature cannot exceed 70°F
• Use laundry bag (s) for the wash cycle
• Wash in cold water with a low setting (Piling of the
fibres may occur after washing, but this will not
affect the quality of the product)
• Use a delicate rinse cycle, limit the time to one-
two minutes
• Lay it flat on a towel and stretch it to the correct
size and shape before setting to dry
• Air dry naturally by laying over a clothes line, flat
surface, or drying rack with netting
Precautions
• Avoid industrial, commercial, or dry cleaning
machines and all Laundromat dryers
• Do not dry Chlorofibre products with a home dryer,
laundromat dryers, or any added heat devises such
as an iron or steam cleaner
• Do not use fabric softeners (they can interfere with
static dispersion)
• Do not use bleach
• Do not iron
Conclusion
Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC is as ubiquitous a synthetic
polymer as one can imagine. Its use as a textile fibre
is however very little known. This is not surprising
since Chlorofibre is but one amidst a wide variety of
synthetic fabric material amongst polyester,
polyamide (nylon), rayon (which is semi-synthetic),
polyvinyl alcohol, polypropylene etc. which in turn are
combined with other fibres including natural fibres to
produce a wide variety of textile
Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

APPAREL VIEWS / JULY 201134
Application of
contemporary
fibres in apparels
History of coconut shell fibre
Cocona®, TrapTek LLC's patented innovative technology that incorporates
activated carbon derived from recycled coconut shells into fibres and yarns, has
received accolades as a natural, sustainable technology. The technology was
developed in 2002 by Gregory W Haggquist, Ph. D. the Longmont, Colo. based
company's founder and made its consumer market debut in 2006 in knitted cycling
apparel developed by United Knitting, Cleveland, Tenn., and Bethel, Conn.-based
Cannondale Bicycle Corp.
Technology of coconut shell fibre
Cocona’s outstanding features are due to the fact that the surface of the activated
carbon has a pore structure. The pores absorb odour molecules at the same
time as enabling the moisture to escape from the skin’s surface and absorb into
the sock more quickly than normal due to the large surface area. Yarn made with
Cocona®
has a surface area that is upto 10 times larger than conventional
polyester yarn.
The Cocona®
technology imbeds activated carbon from coconut shells into
polyester or nylon polymers. The coconut shells, recycled waste from the food
industry, are burned at 300°C followed by a 1,000°C steam-activation process.
The activated carbon is used for water and air filtration, wastewater treatment,
and other such industries. The microscopic, ultra-fine particles that are too
small for those applications are just what TrapTek needs to incorporate into its
fibre and yarn.
The coconut tree is known as “The tree of life.” Coconut meat, milk and oil have been widely used in products like
suntan lotion, cooking, oil, medicine, water and air filters. In textile also, coir is very popular which is extracted from
the husk of coconut and used in products such as floor mats, doormats, brushes, mattresses etc. Now, the finest
quality of activated carbon comes from coconut shells to provide superior dry times, odour adsorption and UV protection
on a wide range of product applications. The Cocona®
material is a natural fabric enhancer that is produced from
activated carbon from coconut shells, which is infused into the textile fibre by Cocona Inc. patent method. The activated
carbon is derived from coconut husks; it is a “waste” product of the water filter industry and is known since immemorial
times to absorb poisons and odours. Activated carbon has a huge absorbing area — one gram of it has a surface area
the size of two tennis court. This activated carbon is infused into natural fibres like cotton, wool and synthetic fibres
like polyester, nylon, etc, which is then blended with other fibres to create performance fabrics
COCCOCCOCCOCCOCONUTONUTONUTONUTONUT SHELLSHELLSHELLSHELLSHELL
FIBREFIBREFIBREFIBREFIBRE -C-C-C-C-COCOCOCOCOCONAONAONAONAONA®®®®®
COCCOCCOCCOCCOCONUTONUTONUTONUTONUT SHELLSHELLSHELLSHELLSHELL
FIBREFIBREFIBREFIBREFIBRE -C-C-C-C-COCOCOCOCOCONAONAONAONAONA®®®®®

Application of Contemporary Fibers in Apparel

Application of Contemporary Fibers in Apparel

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