Slide deck from my 3DP workshop at the Bitraf hackerspace (http://bitraf.no) in Oslo, Norway. The example code can be found here https://github.com/bitraf/Cannybot-kurs

1. Jens Chr Brynildsen / @jenschr
bitraf.no
Wednesday, April 15, 15

2. 3D PRINTER WORKSHOP
Bitraf, September 24 2014
Jens Chr Brynildsen @jenschr / jenschr på gmail
Wednesday, April 15, 15

3. OVERVIEW
• How does our printers work?
• What software should you download?
• Printing workflow
• Finding 3D models online
• How to solve common problems
• ABS printing
• How to make your own 3D models
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4. HOW DOES OUR PRINTERS
WORK?
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5. ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL
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6. ULTIMAKER 2
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7. FRAME
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8. ON / OFF
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9. WHENTHE LAST PERSON LEAVES -
ALL 3D PRINTERS ARETURNED OFF.
LONG PRINT? STAY AND READ A BOOK...
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10. 4 AXIS
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11. X &Y AXIS
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12. Z-AXIS
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13. ENDSTOPS
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14. BUILD PLATFORM
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15. PLASTIC FEEDING
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16. HOTEND
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17. EXTRUDER
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18. BOWDENTUBE
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19. ULTICONTROLLER
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20. OTHER PRINTERS?
• All printers will have similar features/equipment
• All you learn today will apply to other machines, but the
physical layout may be different
• Open Source printers encourage you to learn & print
• Closed Source printers encourage you to print
• Bitraf encourages Open Source
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21. WHAT SOFTWARE SHOULD
YOU DOWNLOAD?
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22. FOR ALL USERS
Download Cura
http://software.ultimaker.com
(Windows, Mac, Linux)
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23. CURA
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24. PLASTICS
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25. PLA
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
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26. PLA ABS
• melts at >110C
• rugged / LEGO plastic
• made from oil
• requires special care
• needs a heated bed
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
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27. PLA ABS
• melts at >110C
• rugged / LEGO plastic
• made from oil
• requires special care
• needs a heated bed
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
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28. OTHER PLASTICS
• PLA/ABS with additives
• PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) / XT
• Nylon / PC (Polycarbonate) / HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
• NinjaFlex, EcoFlex, FlexiFil, Rubber-like
• Woodfill/Copperfill, Laywood/Laybrick/BendLay
• Poro-Lay (porous, fibrous, foam, felt, jelly consistency)
• PVA (AquaSolve), thermocromatic
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29. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
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30. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
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31. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
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32. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
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33. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
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34. FILAMENT TIPS
• We have some donated plastic here to play with.YMMV
• The “cheap plastic” is often expensive if time is a cost
• Buy your own plastic to learn what you are printing with
• Buying from a renowned vendor will save you time and grief
(use Ultimaker, Faberdashery, DiamondAge, Ultimachine, GRFF
or Protoparadigm)
• Colorfabb’s PLA/PHA mixture can be difficult to work with
unless you only print with that one plastic. It’s more sticky...
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35. Ball Bearing in filament? Image by RichRap, http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-days-1518.html
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36. ALTERNATE SOFTWARE
• Check out Slicer http://slic3r.org/
(for Windows, Mac & Linux)
• Repetier Host for direct control of the printer
http://www.repetier.com/download/
• Kisslicer & Netfabb may be interesting too
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37. PRINTING WORKFLOW
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38. WORKFLOW
1. Find / make model
2. Slice model & save to SD
3. Prepare the printer
4. Start printing!
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39. 1. FIND A MODEL
• Thingiverse.com
• Youmagine.com
• Cubehero.com
• Bld3r.com
• Github
Read more at http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.html
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40. 2. SLICETHE MODEL
• Cura
• Slicer
• Kisslicer
• Netfabb
• Skeinforge / RepG
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41. CURA
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42. 3. PREPARETHE PRINTER
(All steps may not be required)
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43. 3. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Prepare the build surface
Image by Ultimaker
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44. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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45. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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46. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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47. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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48. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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49. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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50. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Level the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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51. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Inserting filament & priming
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52. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Use Ulticontroller to heat the nozzle
1. Push Encoder
2. Select “Control”
3. Select “Nozzle”
4. Set to 210C
Image by Ultimaker
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53. PREPARETHE PRINTER
When heated, open extruder latch
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54. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Open extruder drive
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55. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Insert the filament
Insert filament all the way
through the bowden tube.
Push until it reaches
the extruder.
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56. PREPARETHE PRINTER
Close and prime the extruder
Lock the extruder & then
turn the big extruder gear
until you see plastic coming
out of the nozzle.
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57. 4. START PRINTING
1. Insert SD card
2. Push Encoder
3. Select “Print from SD”
4. Scroll to the file & select
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58. WHEN THE LAST PERSON
LEAVES - ALL 3D PRINTERS
ARE TURNED OFF.
NO EXCEPTIONS!
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59. Image from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,375707
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60. Image from http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/7/13/near-disaster-while-3d-printing
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61. Image from https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/tOx2ED07F9A/YdNPOL8I8NwJ
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62. PRINTING BREAK...
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63. PRINTING RULES
1. You break it, you fix it
2. Keep the space clean. Don’t
leave a mess.
3. The printers are a
membership advantage.
Only Bitraf members may
use the printers (as well as
other machines).
4. For good prints - buy your
own quality plastic. Keep it
in a bin in the Lab.
5. No unattended
printing. When the last
person leaves - all 3D
printers are turned off
along with all other
equipment.
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64. HOWTO SOLVE
COMMON PROBLEMS
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65. SWITCHING PLASTICS
• Feed plastic manually until
new color shows
• Keep extruding for a while
or do a test print
• Old colors will keep
contaminating your print
until you got it all out
• Slightly hotter temp may
help cleaning out the old
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66. GREAT HELP-SITE!
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67. HOTEND
Copper nozzle
Aluminium heater block
Peek tube
PTFE insert (White plastic)
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68. CLOGGED HOTEND (A)
1. Warm extruder to 200C
2. Hold aluminium block still with a wrench
3. Use another wrench to unscrew
the copper tip. Can’t be done when cold!
4. Heat copper using a burner
5. Insert a piece of ABS/PLA firmly
into the warm tip.Wait a few
seconds and pull back.This removes
plastic & impurities
6. Use the wire of a resistor to push any impurities into the nozzle tip & then do #4
+ 5 until clean
7. Re-assemble while warm or it won’t fit
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69. If you leave the extruder
hot for a long time
you’ll create one of the
most time-consuming
problems for yourself.
A plug forms here since
the heat creeps up the
brown PEEK piece.
When you try to
push warm plastic into
a tube, it expands
and creates a plug...
CLOGGED HOTEND (B)
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70. To solve this, you need to:
1. Heat the extruder & retract
the filament
2. unscrew the long screws
3. Lift out the hotend assembly
so you can remove the plug
4. Screw the thing back
together while you make
sure the bowden tube is
flush with the white plastic
piece that goes into the
brown peek. Any gap there will
allow plugs to form again.
CLOGGED HOTEND (B)
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71. COLD-PULL
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72. OTHER ERRORS?
jenschr [ på ) gmail { punktum ) com
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73. ABS PRINTING
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74. DIFFERENCES
• Heated build platform
• Kapton or PET tape
• UHU glue stick
• No print-fan
• Enclosure
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75. WARPING
http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpg
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76. WARPING
http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpg
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77. PREVENTING WARPING
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78. WARPING
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79. POST-TREATMENT
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80. POST-TREATMENT
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81. QUESTIONS?
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