Museum Collections Management and caring for personal collections.

1. Preventive conservation for your family treasures.
Melissa Bechhoefer | Registrar
Jen Dibbern | Serials Manager

2.  The act of taking precautionary
measures to slow object
deterioration caused by
inherent aging, in an effort to
provide long term stability.
 It is first and foremost proactive rather
than being just reactive.

3. 1. Physical forces
2.Thieves and vandals
3. Dissociation
4. Fire
5.Water
6. Pests
7. Pollutants
8. Light
9. Incorrect temperature
10. Incorrect relative humidity

4.  So, how do we fight
against powers that
weaken and destroy our
family treasures???

5. 1. Physical Forces
 Impact and Shock
(bumping, dropping,
etc.)
 Vibration
2. Thieves and vandals

6.  The loss of family history, ownership and use of
objects, or associated stories can make an item
quickly go from priceless…to worthless!

7.  Record all known
information about an
object in a place where
it will be saved and
stay with the object.
 Keep all records,
receipts, photos, etc.
that relate to the
objects and the people
who owned or used
them.

8.  Flames, smoke, and fire extinguishing
methods (chemical, water) all cause
damage to most objects
 Some objects have inherent vice, such as nitrate film and
negatives
 Nitrate is highly combustible .
▪ Burning or deteriorating nitrate film or negatives releases toxic nitric acid.
▪ Nitrate film in advanced deterioration will show bubbling, a honey-like goo, or
rust colored powder.

9.  Store objects away from ignition sources:
overloaded electrical outlets, household
chemicals, open flames, etc.
 It is still better to extinguish flames and
deal with the damage caused by the
extinguisher, than to let it burn!

10.  Good storage location is the
easiest way to avoid water
damage.
 Avoid attics or basements where floods are most likely.
 Avoid areas under pipes or near windows.
 Keep objects at least 6 inches off the floor.
 Make sure any floor drains are working.
 Keep in mind that water being present can also affect
relative humidity (still to come…).
 If objects do get wet, contact a professional conservator
right away – different types of objects require different
treatments and “drying things out” isn’t always best!

11.  Numerous types of bugs found in the home
can damage objects.
Carpet Beetles
Roaches
Clothes Moths
Mice
Silverfish
Book Lice

12.  Very small silvery white or yellow moths (1/3 inch).
 Case-making – create small “cocoons” on wool or other animal-based
fabrics, often the same color as the fabric itself.
 Webbing – leave small webs on materials.
 Along with moths in the air, you may find small inch-worm-like larva
(these are the guys that cause all the damage).
 Infested objects may also show signs of small white, brown or black
balls – these are frasse (a fancy technical term for bug poop) or eggs.

13.  Very small black or brown
beetles, often with spots or
small patterns on their backs.
 Larva, which again do the
damage, are small brown and
“hairy”.
 On infested objects you may
see cast skins, which look like
little fur coats that the larva
have shed.
 Though technically not the
same family, similar to
drugstore and tobacco beetles.

14.  Most commonly found in cool, damp places such as basements and
near plumbing.
 Mostly eat cellulose, so a common pest for papers and books, but will
also eat cotton and linen fabrics, starches in book or wallpaper paste,
flour, etc.
 Related firebrats like hot humid places.

15.  Commonly known as book lice.
 Can eat glue used in book bindings.
 Feed mostly on molds, so presence is a sign of mold
growth.

16.  Omnivores (surprise –
cockroaches eat almost
anything!).
 American cockroaches
are reddish-brown and
can be 1.5 inches long.
 German cockroaches
are brown or tan and
.5-.75 inches long.

17. MICE RATS

18.  Clean regularly to remove food sources and
places to hide.
 Bugs feed on other dead bugs.
 Dust can contain hair, skin, and other food sources for
pests.
 Food crumbs, drink spills, stains and trash are all good
food sources.
 Know that pesticides can be damaging to
objects (and people and pets!)…. Go green!

19. 1. Isolate the infested object(s) so you can better monitor the
number and types of pests and prevent spread.
2. Remove as many pests or pest evidence (webs, frass, etc.) as
possible using tweezers, vacuum, etc.
 Be aware that sometimes in removing pests, parts of the object will
also be removed or damaged!
3. Deep clean affected areas and continue to monitor.

20. 4. Sealing and freezing objects may be effective, but
requires special equipment (the freezer on top of your
fridge won’t do!).
5. Pest traps for certain types of pests are widely available
online or at hardware stores.
6. REPEAT as necessary.

21.  Airborne pollutants – chemicals from cleaning
products, paints, etc.
 Particulate pollutants – most common is DUST
 Abrasive, absorbs moisture, attracts pests, acidic

22.  Keep areas where objects are stored clean.
 Use HEPA filtered vacuums.
 Use soft brushes or cloths when dusting.
 Avoid introducing chemicals when possible.
 Clean with water rather than harsh cleaners.
 Avoid storing important items in buildings where
people smoke.

23.  Silver – loss of plating

24.  Three types of light all cause damage:
 Visible
 Ultraviolet (UV)
 Infrared
 Museums (and you) are most concerned about visible and
ultraviolet.
 Visible light causes fading and color shifts.
 UV causes deterioration of objects by affecting chemical bonds.
 Light damage compounds over time and is irreversible.

25.  The only way to avoid light damage is to reduce
or remove light exposure to an object
 Light exposure = light intensity x exposure length.
 UV can be filtered and reduced based on light sources.
 Always avoid direct light.
 Honestly, keeping things in the dark is always ideal.

26.  Incorrect in this case can mean three different
things:
 Too high (speeds up deterioration and chemical
processes, high RH can lead to mold growth).
 Too low (can cause physical deterioration).
 Too much fluctuation (can cause materials to swell
and shrink, leading to deterioration).

27.  Avoid storing items in areas of environmental
extremes (attics, basements, garages).
 Avoid displaying or storing objects in areas of
greatest temp or RH fluctuations (e.g. near
radiators or vents, near windows, etc.).
 Create “micro-climates” using housing
materials.

28. So now that we know what to avoid and
what NOT to do…what CAN we do to
protect important items at home?

29.  Handling artifacts increases:
 Risk of physical damage
 Chances of oils on hands reacting with materials
 When possible, store objects in containers
that can be moved rather than having to take
objects out

30.  Keep out of direct sunlight.
 Reduce amount of light exposure by reducing
intensity and exposure time.
 Filter as much UV from light sources as possible.
 Protect objects from dust and other pollutants.
 Clean objects as little as possible.
 Regularly inspect objects and areas around them for
pests.
 House objects in appropriate materials.

31.  Should be in high quality, acid-free materials
 Containers should be pH neutral (acid-free) and if possible, lignin free.
 Buffered vs. Unbuffered – when in doubt, use unbuffered!
 Beware: with the proliferation of scrapbooking as a hobby, many
materials are now advertised as “acid-free” that may or may not be
high quality.
 Even though materials start out acid-free, the acid will migrate over
time and these materials must be replaced.
 Avoid most plastics
 They deteriorate over time (many very quickly).
 High quality polyethylene bags can be used.
 Polyethylene foam such as Ethafoam can be used.
 Mylar or Melinex sleeves are good for photos

32.  Try to reduce the need for folding.
 If folds exist in paper items, talk to a conservator
before trying to “flatten” them.
 Textiles:
▪ If they must be folded, pad out the folds with acid-free tissue
to avoid harsh creases and change the fold pattern regularly.
▪ Keeping clothing flat is better than hanging it, but if it must
hang, pad out the hanger with cotton batting and cotton
muslin.

33.  Within a box:
 Don’t allow objects to touch each other.
 Remove loose parts such as lids and store separately.
 Pad out any rough, sharp, or abrasive surfaces.
 Make sure containers are designed for easy access to
materials while protecting them during movement.

35.  Canadian Conservation Institute
 www.cci-icc.gc.ca/caringfor-prendresoindes/collections-
eng.aspx
 Nitrate Film (from Northeast Document Conservation Center)
 http://www.nedcc.org/resources/leaflets/5Photographs/01Short
Guide.php
 Book – Caring forYour FamilyTreasures by Jane S. and
RichardW. Long
 http://www.heritagepreservation.org/PUBS/treasures.HTM
 Library of Congress Preservation
 http://www.loc.gov/preservation/family/

36.  American Institute for Conservation
 www.conservation-us.org
 AppraisersAssociation of America
 www.appraisersassoc.org/
 American Society of Appraisers – Denver Chapter
 http://old.appraisers.org/denver/

37. Archival Methods
866.877.7050
www.archivalmethods.com
Gaylord Brothers
1.800.962.9580
www.gaylord.com
Hollinger /Metal Edge
1-800-634-0491
www.hollingermetaledge.com
Light Impressions
1-800-975-6429
www.lightimpressionsdirect.com
University Products
1-800-628-1912
www.universityproducts.com
The Container Store
Stores near Cherry Creek, Flatiron
Crossing, Park Meadows
1-888-CONTAIN
www.containerstore.com