3. Classification of Fibers
Building Blocks of all materials- Smallest being ATOM-
To form Fiber –Carbon, Hydrogen, Nitrogen & Sulphur are Important ATOMS
ATOMS combine to form- MOLECULE- Smallest Unit of a compound
Eg -Water( 2atoms of hydrogen & 1 atom of oxygen)
Formation of chemical compound is SYNTHESIS
Separation of a compound into its constituents is -ANALYSIS
Different Physical forms of compound are called STATES
(Water) ---SOLID----LIQUID-----GASEOUS
Macromolecules- Very Large Molecules.
Long Chains of macromolecules is called –linear-POLYMERS
Fibers made from Fibrillar Bundles.
Individual Fibril made from- Long Chains of macromolecules
Vegetable fiber-chain is of cellulose, animal it is of protien…Synthetic from petroleum
Fiber Bulk is Amorphous and Crystalline.
Amorphous –Water/ dye can penetrate, It allow flexibility.
Crystalline- Water /Dye Cannot penetrate. It Gives strength. MOECULAR ARRANGEMNET IN
FIBER
Organization of Macromolecules , Amorphous, Crystalline regions ----Determines-Properties of Fibers
4. Classification of Fibers
Sources Of Textile Fibers
Solar energy –
basis of life
Cotton Flax Wool Silk Cellulosic- Synthetic-
Man made Man made
Cellulose- formed through Food taken by animals Petroleum
photosynthesis transformed into Fiber forming Cellulose –
extracted derived
Proteins from Sea
from Wood
Plankton
Plants & Animals Construct- NATURAL POLYMERS –form…Fibers
Cellulose dissolved ---passed through spinning jets
from Natural Polymers. Forms.. ALL FIBERS
Cellulosic man-made-Fibers Constructed From-
Petroleum products form Synthetic man-made-
LARGE POLYMER
Fibers --Artificially formed.
MOLECULES….
6. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
AESTHETIC- APPROPRIATE IN APPEARNCE FOR END USE
DURABLE- SHOULD LAST FOR ADEQUATE TIME
COMFORT- COMFORTABLE WHEN WORN/ USE
APPEARANCE- TEXTILE RETAIN APPEARANCE WHEN USE < CARE <
STORED
7. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
AESTHETIC- APPROPRIATE IN APPEARNCE FOR END USE
Luster- is Light Reflected by the surface –
SHINY- BRIGHT reflects fair amount of light than DULL -MATTE surface.
Yarn & Finish can change the Luster.
Drape-Way the Fabric Falls over a Body. or a Table…
FINE fabrics have better drape than COARSE .
Yarn & Fabric structure more Important in determining the Drape...
Texture- is Textiles Surface..
NATURAL Fibers has more texture than MAN-MADE.
Hand- Feels to the skin-
Warm/Cool, Bulky/Thin, Slick/Soft.
Luster-
Drape-
Texture-
Hand
8. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
DURABLE- SHOULD LAST FOR ADEQUATE TIME
Abrasion Resistance- Abiltiy of the Textile to With-Stand the Rubbing during Use .
(Flex-occur moving /bending …… Edge occur -when folded)
Flexibilty- Abiltiy to Bend Repeatedly Without Breaking related to Abrasion
.
Tenacity- Ability to Withstand a Pulling Force. Differs when Textile is WET & DRY.
Elongation- Degree to which Fiber may be Stretched without breaking. Related to Elasticity
Abrasion
Resistance
Flexibility
Tenacity
Elongation
9. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
COMFORT- TEXTILE COMFORTABLE WHEN WORN/ USE
Absorbency- Ability of a fiber to Take up Moisture (increase in MASS)
from Body /Environment.
Hydrophilic- Absorbs Moisture readily
Hydrophobic- Have Little or No Absorbency
Hydroscopic- Absorbs Moisture Without Feeling Wet.
Heat Retention- Ability to Hold HEAT.
Low in Summers & High in winters
Affected by - Fiber, yarn, Fabric structure, Layering,
Heat sensitive- Reaction to Heat-
Soften , Melts, Resistant . (Identify Safe Pressing temperature)
Density- Fiber Weight per Unit Volume
Lower density into fabrics, Heavy density into heavy fabrics
Absorbency
Hydrophilic- Hydrophobic- Hydroscopic-
Heat Retention
Heat sensitive
Density
10. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
APPEARANCE- TEXTILE RETAIN APPAERANCE WHEN USE< CARE< STORED
Resiliency- Ability of textile to RETURN to its Shape
Bending / Twisting/ Crushing
Do Not Wrinkle Are --Resilient.
Shrinkage- Ability to RETAIN its Original Dimensions throughout CARE
React to Moisture & Heat----SHRINK-- No longer Attractive
Elasticity- Ability to RETURN to its Original dimensions after ELONGATION.
Poor elastic Out of Shape. good elastic maintain shape
Dimensional stability- Ability to RETAIN its Original Size & Shape after USE
Depends on – Elasticity & Shrinkage resistance.
Dimensions Measured before and after cleaning.
Resiliency
Shrinkage
Elasticity
Dimensional
stability
11. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
RESISTANCE- Reaction to CHEMICALS & HEAT
Light- Exposure to Light (Natural/ Artificial) Damage Fabric.
like- yellowing /slight weakening/ complete disintegration
Chemicals- Resistance to Chemicals (ACIDS & ALKALIS)
determines - Care Procedures & End Use
12. Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY
ENVIORMENTAL IMPACT-
The Way- PRODUCTION < USE < CARE < DISPOSAL of Product--- Affects Environment-
•Soil conservation,
•Use of agriculture chemicals,
•Water demands,
•Cleaning requirements,
•Processing etc,,,)
CARE PROPERTIES-
Any Treatment to Maintain the New Look of textile product during use
Cleaning, Storage, is CARE
COST- Depends on----------------------------------
•Supply-Demand,
•Cost of Raw Material used to Grow them.
14. Fibers
How. Fibers -Contribute to Fabric performance?
Strong Fibers –Make Durable Fabrics
Absorbent Fibers- Make Apparels Suitable for Skin + towels + diapers
Fire resistant Fibers- Used for Children’s Sleep wear + Fire fighters Clothing
ble
ita ar
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HENCE…
Fiber Knowledge & Their Properties will HELP You understand
Fiber Contribution to…………………………….
Performance of a Fabric & Product ………made from It.
16. Fibers PHYSICAL STURCTURE
Length-
Fibers are- Staple, Filament/ Filament Tow.
STAPLE - Short Length in inches (3/4th-18” ) or cm (2-46cm)
Except silk all Natural fibers are available in Staple form
FILAMENT- Long Continuous, Strands Indefinite Length in
( Miles & kilometers)- Mono or Multi FILAMENT. Smooth or Bulked
FILAMENT Tow- Loose rope of several Fibers-
Crimped or textured cut to staple length.
17. Fibers PHYSICAL STURCTURE
Diameter
LARGE FIBER- Crisp Rough stiff… Resist Crushing
FINE FIBERS- Soft, Pliable.. Drape Easily….
Fineness or Coarseness of fiber
Determine by – Denier, Tex , Cotton count
18. Fiber: Fineness or Coarseness of fiber,
DENIER- Weight in (gms ) of 9000 meters of fiber /yarn
A single strand of silk is one denier. A 9,000 meter strand of silk weighs one gram
In practice measuring 9,000 meters is both time-consuming and wasteful.
Usually a sample of 900 meters is weighed and the result multiplied by 10 to obtain the denier
weight.
TEX- Weight in (gms ) of 1000 meters of fiber /yarn
Tex is more likely to be used in Canada and Europe,
Denier remains more common in the United States and United Kingdom
Cotton Counts:
The Number of HANKS of 840 yds in one pound of weight i.e
10 count cotton means that 10x840 yds weighs = 1 lb.
In the United Kingdom, ones to 40s are coarse counts (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are
medium counts and above 80 is a fine count. In the United States ones to 20s are
coarse counts.
19. Fibers
Cross Sectional shape
Affects-
Luster, Bulk, Body, Texture, & Hand—
Round , Dog bone, Triangular, Lobal, Hallow etc…
Through Orifice (opening in the body) . .insects extrudes Fiber,
Cellulose is Built-during plant growth, Shape of hair follicle/ protien formation.
20. Fibers
Crimp
Two kinds….
FIBER CRIMP- Refers to -Waves. Bends, Coils, Curls Along length of fiber
FABRIC CRIMP- Bends caused by Distortion of yarns due to weaving/knitting
Surface contour
Outer Surface of the fiber Along its length- could be Smooth, Serrated, Strait,
Rough
21. Fibers
Chemical composition
Fibers are Classified in Generic groups by their chemical compositions.
Properties of One Generic groups DIFFER from another.
Polymerization- Atoms bonded in millions to form Molecular chains
Polymer- Small Molecules joined together to form a Long chain
Amorphous- When chains are arranged in RANDOM / DISORGANISED way
within the fiber.
Crystalline- Molecular chains are organized PARALLEL to each other
Hydrogen Bonds - Stronger than Vander Wals forces
Molecular chains are held to one another by intermolecular forces.
The closer the chains the stronger the bonds .
Occurs mainly in Crystalline areas making them more strong than Amorphous.
22. Fiber
Fibril
Bundles
Macro
fibrils
Polymers
Part-2-Fibers- Types
Cellulosic
Protein
Regenerated fibers
Synthetic
Special use fibers
23. Classification of Fibers
NATURAL FIBERS
GROUP- (SUB Group) Name or Generic Name
Vegetable (cellulose)
Cotton ,
Kapok,
Seed Coconut
Flax
Hemp
Jute
24. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- seed
COTTON- History
(over 5000 years ago)- COTTON-Used for Making Textiles
Findings from Mohenjo-Daro suggest that.
Indian Cotton was Traded to Mediterranean Area from Alexander time – Who traded with EAST.
Venice was built due large Trade of Indian Cotton
,(8th Century) It thrived in Spain till Islam Came in 15th century.
Trade sea route established with Portugal
During 17th Century Britain became powerful in Textile manufacturing
18th Century America invented Cotton Gin.
And Britain developed spinning and weaving machinery.
Cotton Growing in 80 different countries World-wide.
Major Ones are-
USA, CHINA, INDIA, PAKISTAN, UZBEKISTAN, BRAZIL, TURKEY,
AUSTRALIA , TURMENISTAN, EGYPT.
25. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- seed
COTTON PLANT
• Cotton plant during Planting & Growth needs lot of water and for Ripening needs lot of heat.
• Mainly Grown in TROPICAL & Sub-TROPICAL Belt.
• After flowering …Fruit Nodes Grow into CAPSULE , which Cracks open to reveal Seed HAIRS
• Each Ball has 30 Seeds.
• Each SEED has 1000 to 10, 000 hair.
Harvesting
cracks open- several
Hand pick/machine pick CAPSULE SEED HAIR
Drying
Newly harvested seed is wet. Dry by
Warm Air
Ginning
FLOWERING
Separate Fiber from seed-LINT
Utilization Each BALL=30 SEED
Made into staple fiber yarns by spinning Each SEED= 1000s.HAIR
26. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- seed
COTTON- Commercial Quality
QULAITY STAPLE FINENESS COLOUR
LENGTH
UPLAND
COTTON
28mm
Longer Impurities High White
(America)- are Quality
the fiber detrimental = to
GIZA 36mm
Finer to Quality
High
Creamy-
Strength
COTTONS
(Egypt)
it is to
Light Yellow-
to
Brown
SEA ISLAND 50mm
COTTON
(West Indies) Silky texture
27. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- seed
COTTON- Thermal Insulation Low
Moisture High
Properties Absorption Up to 65% of their own weight
Strength Good
Stronger when wet than dry
Pure
Elasticity Poor cotton
Creases easily Good
Quality
Electrostatic charge Scarcely
develop any charge as contain
Moisture
Fineness Fine & soft
Next to skin Very
Comfortable
Apparel Accessories Household Industrial
textiles Textiles
Applications Shirts, Handkerchiefs
Blouses, Laces, Bed clothes, Protective
Nightwear, Ribbons, Kitchen, Furniture Clothing, Awnings,
Umbrellas coverings, Hand Tarpaulins, Sewing
Trousers,
bath Towels Threads
Jeans,
28. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- bast
FLAX / History
LINEN- LINEN –KNOWN to Civilized Society for thousands of years.
Cultivated by Ancient Egyptians, Babylonians etc..
Mummies found wrapped in Linen
Linen was popular in Middle Ages as well.
Major Ones are-
CHINA,
RUSSIAN FEDERATION,
UKRAINE,
FRANCE,
BELARUS,
NETHERLAND,
EGYPT,
ELGIUM,
CZECH REPUBLIC,
LITHUANIA
29. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- bast
FLAX / LINEN-
PLANT Harvesting
Pulled-plant as a WHOLE till roots. .for full length / nowadays.
machine pick
• Flax is extracted from the Stalks of Plant. Roughing Out
• TALL Varieties - For Fiber (shorter for linseed oil). Remove Seed + other materials from Stems
• Grows best in Temperate Climate. Retting
• Constructed from Cellulose Chain Woody part is degraded Thus, Fiber loosened-
Molecules. (LAY IN..WARM WATER FOR 5-8 DAYS)
• Flax is Stiffer than Cotton because of Drying
Cement that holds Fiber. Flax stalks Dried by Warm Air Oven
• Flax has Smoother Surface than Cotton.
Breaking & Scutching
After retting- Stalks broken, Woody part removed by scutching.
Line fiber-(45-90cm), Scutcher tow-(10-25cm)
Hackling
Bast fiber combed into spinnable bundles
.(woody part + short fibers removed)
Processing
Line /Tow-is spun into yarns.
30. Fibers---CELLULOSIC- bast
Thermal Insulation Poor-(cannot hold much air-
FLAX / as smooth fiber.. Poor insulation)
LINEN- Moisture High
Absorption (Absorbs Quickly and releases it quickly)
Properties
Strength Very Good
Stronger when wet than dry
Elasticity Lowest
Of all apparel fiber…
Electrostatic charge Nill
As contain Moisture
Fineness Coarse Fiber give Firm Handle.
Next to skin Harder and Stiffer Than cotton …(LESS SUPLE)
Lustre Smooth surface – gives Subdued Luster
Apparel Accessories Household Industrial
textiles Textiles
Applications Shirts, Suites, Pockets
Skirts, Bags Bed clothes, Table Tarpaulins
Blouses, cloths, Drapes, (POLYTRAP)
Shoes
Trousers, Mattress Linings, water proof material)
Trimmings
Interlinings for Furniture & Wall Ropes, Threads
stiffening Coverings.
31. FIBER USEFUL PART
NAME OF THE PLANT ORIGIN PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS
Very WEAK Fiber- due-to-
Brazil, Large Air-Filled Lumen
India, Cannot be Spun- into Stuffing &
Indoneasia, YARNS- Wadding-
Mexico, Wax Coating -Repellent to Cushions, Bolsters,
Fruit- seed hair East & water Mattresses,
KAPOK fiber West, Africa Fine, Soft ,Luster, Filling in Life jackets
High Abrasion
resistance Floor Coverings
Durable Stair
Good Carpets
India,
Indoneasia, Elasticity Ropes
Not Soil easily
Srilanka Good Furniture backings
Insulators
COCONUT Hard fiber - coconut
Coarse & Stiff Tarpaulins
Itlay
Poland, Strong Ropes
Yugoslavia, Elasticity is Good Carpet backings
Romania, Rot slowly
Spain,
Bast fiber- Algeria
HEMP
32. FIBER USEFUL PART
NAME OF THE PLANT ORIGIN PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS
Packaging fabrics
Woody & Irregular Base
Strength is Cloth for Belts &
LOWER Than Flax
Tapestries
Elasticity is similar to Flax
India, Strong Aroma Backing
Bangladesh Can Rot Cloth for Floor
Coverings
JUTE Bast fiber- Pakistan Easy to Dye
Strong
High Grade Blast
Fiber like Flax Fine , Light &
Smooth & uniform
Durable -Kitchen &
Easy to Dye
Table Cloth
Resistant to Light
White & Has Belts &
Lustre Ribbons
Absorbency
Good
Bast fiber- Far-east Harder than Cotton
RAMIE USA
Ropes
Carpet ,
High -Strength
Nets,
Brazil, High-
33. Part-2-Fibers- Types
Cellulosic
Protein
Regenerated fibers
Synthetic
Special use fibers
34. Classification of Fibers
NATURAL FIBERS
GROUP- (SUB Group) Name or Generic Name
Animal (Protein)
• Cultivated
Silk • Wild( Tussar)
Wool
Virgin wool
Wool
Fine hair-------------
Alpaca
Lama,
Vicuna,
Guanaco,
Camel,
Rabbit,
Angora,
Mohair,
Cashmere,
35. Fibers---PROTIEN- SILK
SILK
History
Silk –.Chinese Empress Si-Ling Shi -Observed the caterpillar spinning itself into a Cocoon.
She unraveled the filaments and made fabric… ..
Cocoons were Smuggled to Europe and Mediterranean Region thus, produced silk …from then…
Major Ones are-
CHINA,
INDIA,
JAPAN ,
RUSSIA,
BRAZIL,
KOREA,
THAILAND ,
TURKEY,
FRANCE
36. Mulberry Silk- Cultivated SILK
Fibers--- PROTIEN- SILK
Raw silk- Kills pupae with steam/ dryheat –
SILK Cocoon placed in hot water-soften gum
Filaments end found and wounded on a reel.
• Emerging From Egg, - worm feed on 7-10 filaments wounded together on a reel. and is called
Raw Silk.
MULBERRY LEAVES.
• Grows - As Caterpillar Spun Silk-
• Fibroin is Extruded- ANIMAL PROTIEN Unwinnable remnants from Cocoon and
• Fibroin Filaments -made from – Fibril Bundles other waste silk ---is converted into-
Spun Yarn of long fibers Combed-are fine, smooth, regular
---------------again are made from – Micro fibrils.
• Sericin- Silk GUM.- surrounds- 2 filaments Noil silk-
and hold them together-is PIGMENTED. Shorter Waste Fiber Spun into- Coarser, Irregular,
Nappy Yarn
• 50,000 silkworm yield 1000kg of cocoons
Wild Silk- Recovered
yields 120kg of RAW SILK.
Tussah-
• We have Mulberry Silk & Wild Silk ( like Tussah)
• Wild Tussah cocoons are gathered from Trees &
Bushes
• Difficult to Degum & Reel it
• Retains its Reddish Brown Colour
Degumming- Remove Gum-
• Variation In Finess-like irregular streaks…
by Gentle Boiling in mild soap solution.
Weighting- Degummed silk Made heavier by firming again with Metallic salts
37. Fibers--- PROTIEN
Thermal Insulation Good –Filament made into FINE FABRICS
SILK (Enclose small volume of Air –cooling effect. Nevertheless…Compact
silk are Good Insulators. .as..)
Layer of Warm Air lying between Fabric & Skin---Does not escape easily too. )
Properties
Moisture Hygroscopic
Absorption (Absorbs 1/3 of its weight of water vapour without feeling wet)
Strength Very Good Tenacity
Elasticity- & Outstanding Resilience-(does not wrinkle)
Extensibility Very Good( 10-30%)
Electrostatic charge Nil--As contain Moisture
Fineness Coarse Fiber give Firm Handle.
Next to skin Harder and Stiffer Than cotton …(LESS SUPLE)
Luster/Fineness/Hand Has Luster, is Fine and Pleasant Handle…
Sensitivity Perspiration/ Deodorant spray-
cause Discoloration or Brittle the fiber
Apparel
Applications Accessories Household Industrial Textiles
Dresses, Blouses; Scarves textiles
Formal dress Gloves Drapes , Sewing Threads
Sophisticated Lingerie Ties ,Hats Wall coverings, Carpets, Embroidered Threads
Handbags Umbrellas Lampshades, Racing Bicycle tyres
Artificial flowers Bed clothes
38. Fibers---PROTIEN- SILK
Above Properties are of Degummed RAW Silk- It
SILK varies also as per ……..Variety
DEGUMMED- WEIGHTED- WILD SILK
cultivated cultivated
Wrinkles, Seldom
Wrinkles Little Degummed,
Full ,Heavy, Stiff,
Supple Less Durable, Coarse,
Fine luster Stronger Luster Not Uniform,
Harsh to
RAW
Handle,
Smooth, Finest
Heavier,
SPUN/ Schappe-
Fine, Darker, Duller,
Smooth,regular Dull Luster,
NOIL/Bourette More sensitive
Coarse, Neppy, to perspiration
Irregular
39. Fibers---PROTIEN- WOOL
WOOL History
WOOL FELTS – were known in China, Babaylon, Egypt…
Shearing not Pulling-of Wool- Invention During Iron Age-
(Cutting Tools..found)
Sheep breeding… Started in 14th century in Spain..
Then in 18th century in Australia..
Australia has 14% worlds sheep..population….
Major Ones are-
AUSTRALIA
USSR
NEW ZEALAND
CHINA,
ARGENTINA
URUGUAY
SOUTH AFRICA
TURKEY,
GREAT BRITAIN
PAKISTAN
GERMANY
40. Fibers--- PROTIEN- WOOL Shearing
SHAVING the sheep- for Fleece
WOOL Classing
PLANT Fleece GRADED -(1-best -4-worst)
-as per-
• WOOL fiber is made of –Keratin-
•Fineness,
( PROTIEN MOLECULE )
• Long Chain Protein Molecules -formed Into FIBRILS- •Crimp,
• FIBRILS combine into- FIBRILLAR BUNDLES •Impurities,
• FIBRILLAR BUNDLES- Mass of Cell •Color
• It has Scales on Fiber surface Scouring
Dirt & Grease is removed- By Gentle
Scouring
Fiber
Carbonizing
Vegetable Impurities Removed –by
Fibril
fibrils Sulphuric Acid
Bundles
Processing
Protien
molecule Fibers processed into- Wollens or
Worsted
41. Fibers--- PROTIEN- WOOL
Thermal Insulation Excellent –
WOOL Bulky Looser yarn -better insulation than
Fine combed yarns)
Properties Moisture Absorption Hygroscopic
Strength Practically Not Durable
Lower than normal Apparel
Elasticity Excellent
Electrostatic charge Develop only Small Charge
As contain Moisture
Fineness Coarse / Fine depending on Variety
Next to skin Softness of wool depends on its Fineness
Fammability Does not Burn easily
Formability Durable shape
Can be re-oriented under Heat & Moisture
Felting Due to Scales
Heat , Moisture & Mechanical action –felting happen
Apparel Accessories Household Industrial
Applications Suites Ties textiles Textiles
Costume Pullovers Socks
Blankets Fire protecting
Waist Coats, Hats clothing
Overcoats, Carpets
Scarfs Industrial felts
Dresses Drapes
Stockings
Furnishings.
42. Fibers---PROTIEN- WOOL
WOOL TYPE FINE MEDIUM LONG , COARSE
WOOL- Merino /
Classification Breed Rambouillet South down Lincoln
Fineness/
Diameter Finest-15-23 Medium-24-30 Coarse above 30
Length 15-120 120-150 Over 150
Crimp/Waviness Highly crimped Normal crimped Low crimped
Australia/
Sources South Africa Argentina, Uruguay New Zealand, Great Britain
Fine Outerwear,
knitted & Woven Heavier, Sporting Carpets, Furniture
Applications Shawl, Socks Clothing Coverings
Shearing First shearing- (fine & not very strong) after 6 months….
WOOL- Second shearing – after 10-12 months from 1st shearing
Classification 6-month, 8month, 12month interval…shearing
Source Australian, New Zealand, Cape
Origin Virgin Wool- Shorn from healthy sheep
Dead Wool from Sheep died from Natural death
Skin Wool- from slaughtered sheep
Recovered Wool- From Production waste & Second hand clothing
Spinning Worsted----Spun into Fine, Smooth, Combed Yarns
Woolens---More Voluminous, On Woolen Spinning System
43. Fibers---PROTIEN- WOOL
WOOL- ALPACA Both wild & domesticated-
Classification South America
LLAMA
Sorted by Color + Fineness
ALPACA VICUNA
SOFT, LESS CRIMP, VERY WARM
GUANACO Blankets, Overcoats, Expensive knitted
SHORN –every 2 years
jackets,
VICUNA CAMEL SOFT, LESS CRIMP, FINE, Beige in Color
SHORN – Outer wear, Interlinings
every Year
CASHMERE In Magnolia,
LLAMA SHORN – Due to-High Altitudes- Has unusual FINE
every Year under fleece
GUANACO Fleece separated-by fineness & color
Sorted by Color + Fineness
SOFT, LIGHT , LUSTROUS, EXPENSIVE
MOHAIR/YAK Angora Goat
SHORN – Texcas, S.Africa, Turkey
Twice in a years LONG CURLED SILKY TEXTURE
White ,Good for dyeing
Outerwear
ANGORA/RABBIT Angora Rabbit
SHORN – Europe, East Asia
Four times in a year FINE , VERY LIGHT
44. Part-2-Fibers- Types
Regenerated fibers
Synthetic
MAN-MADE FIBER SPINNING PROCESS
45. MAN-MADE FIBERof FibersPROCESS
Classification SPINNING
3 MAJOR SPINNING PROCESS
1. Wet Spinning- Spinning from a Polymer Solution
Polymer solution is extruded into bath
containing chemicals
which Neutralize Solvent & Solidify Filaments
E:G- Viscose, Acrylics
ELEMENTS- Com
mon to …..
All 3 methods
• Reservoir &
Metering Pump
Fiber forming material
• Spinning Jet (S
pinneret)
Fluid in which Filam Neutralize Solvent & Solidify Filaments
ents are Formed
• Take up Mecha
nism
draws the Filaments & W
inds them onto a pa
ck age.
46. MAN-MADE FIBERFibers
Classification of SPINNING PROCESS
2. Dry spinning-(Warm Air) Spinning from a Polymer Solution-
Polymer solution is extruded into the Stream
of Warm air
which Evaporates Solvent & Solidify Filaments
E:G - Acetate, Acrylics
47. MAN-MADE FIBERFibers
Classification of SPINNING PROCESS
3.Melt Spinning- (Cold Air) Spinning from a Polymer Melt
Molten Polymer - extruded into the stream of Cold air
which Cools the MELT & Solidify Filaments
E.G -Polyester, Nylon
48. MAN-MADE FIBERFibers
Classification of SPINNING PROCESS
• Spinneret Shape – determines the Shape of Filament
E:G…Could be Circular or Some other shape.
•Different Cross sections- influences- LUSTER & HAND of fabric
• Filaments from different spinneret can be
Combined into a TOW… & Chopped into STAPLE fiber…
• MONO-filament- Spinneret has one Hole
• MULTI-filament-Spinneret has several Hole
49. Part-2-Fibers- Types
Regenerated fibers
CALLED Regenerated Coz …………Cellulose Scarcely is Altered
during Process.
Hence after Fiber Formation is AGAIN Cellulose. Therefore REGENRATED.
50. Regenerated fibers
Cellulosic:- Man -Made Fibers
Viscose Cuprammonium Acetate Organic
process process process process
E;G Cupro E:G E;G
E:G
Acetate,
Viscose, triacetate Lyocell
Modal
HISTORY….
1900 is seen as the birth of Man- Made Fiber Industry
Artificial Stockings after 1st World War." Roaring Twenties”, Artificial Silk Lingerie etc…
51. Regenerated fibers
Viscose process
VISCOSE- Use SODIUM HYDROXIDE solution+ CARBON DISULPHIDE to dissolve
CELLULOSE.
MODAL- Made from Modified Viscose Fiber.
( Solidifying bath has different chemicals resulting in Longer Cellulose molecules,
improvement structure. Therefore, Higher strength.)
Cuprammonium process
CUPRO- COPPER OXIDE & other copper compounds used to dissolve CELLULOSE.
Acetate process
ACETATE & TRI-ACETATE – where cellulose HYDROXYL GROUP is replaced by
ACETYL GROUP. Hence properties are different.
Organic process-
LYOCELL- Now AMINE OXIDE with water (organic) is used.
52. R. Fibers--- VISCOSE
Properties
Thermal Insulation Low, can be controlled to some extent
• Ex
tracted Moisture More Absorbent than Cotton
Eucal from
yptus - Absorption
/Beac /P
hwoo ine
d Strength Lower than Cotton
•Fibe
r len Elasticity Wrinkle easily
than C gth shorter
otton S
STRE o
NGTH , LOWER Electrostatic charge Low as Contain Moisture
.
Fineness Fine and soft
Next to skin Comfortable
Coloration Excellent
Luster High Luster to Matt ( depends on cross
section)
Applications CARE Viscose Swell in Water. Hence causes
fabric to shrink. In Modal it is Less.
FILAMENT- Viscose STAPLE -Viscose MODAL
Use for Blouses, Shirts, Used in Blends- Used Primarily in
LUSTROUS dresses, Drapes, Cotton , Wool Linen BLENDS- with Cotton
FABRICS Lingerie, Ribbons type- & Polyester
Trimming For- Absorbency, Uniformity, Underwear,Outerwear.
LINNING FABRICS Luster
54. Classification of Fibers
Synthetic Fibers
Polyamides (Nylon) Poly acrylic, poly-olefins elastane
Polyesters Polyvinyl-chloride elastodiene
Polyvinyl-alcohols
Poly-tetra-fluro-ethylene
HISTORY….
Synthetic fibers breakthrough was with- NYLON STOCKINGS. in 1950s.
Lycra-(Elastomers) Developed in 1959etc…
1st generation was Cellulosic-Fiber-
2nd generation was Synthetic Fiber
3rd generation is of – ARMIDS, CARBON, CERAMIC. fibers.
55. Fibers--- NYLON / POLYAMIDE
Thermal Insulation Depends on whether fiber produced is
Properties Flat, Textured, Staple.
Moisture Absorption Little
Amide group
Strength Highest Tensile strength
Nylon6-
Elasticity Very resilient, Wrinkle free
Nylon 6.6-
Electrostatic charge Has it, reduced by Finish
High drape, stiff
Fineness From Micro to Coarse
Next to skin Fine soft- for Apparels
Luster Matt to high Luster
Formability Thermoplastic- can be set
Resistance Resistant to alkalis, Fungi. Moulds,
Sensitive to Dry heat & Light, Abrasion
Applications resistance..
FILAMENT- STAPLE ARAMIDS
Sheer Stockings, Lingerie, Pile Upholstery Used in Blends- Used Primarily in
Swimming wear, Sportswear, Cotton , Wool Protective Clothing
Linen type- Bullet proof jackets
Water proof clothing
Racing drivers
Umbrellas, Linnings, Dresses, Blouses Fleece fabrics etc
Fire fighters
56. Fibers--- Synthetic- POLYESTER
Thermal Insulation Depends on whether fiber produced is
Properties Flat, Textured, Staple.
Ester- Moisture Little
group Absorption
Strength Highest Tensile strength
Elasticity Very resilient, Wrinkle free
Electrostatic charge Has it, reduced by Finish
Fineness From Micro to Coarse
Next to skin Fine soft- for Apparels
Luster Matt to high Luster
Formability Thermoplastic- can be set
Resistance Resistant to Alkalis Acids, Fungi.
Applications Moulds, Light & Heat.
FILAMENT-usually textured STAPLE
Dresses, Blouses , Ties, Scarves, Used in Blends- with
Rain wear, Linnings, Net curtains Cotton , viscose, modals, wool
FLAME RESISTANCE- good for children wear, hotel Filling material-Fberfill
beddings, Theater. Wadding's
HIGH TENACITY- Tent proof, tarpaulins, tyre cords, .. Sewing threads
57. FIBER NAME PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS
Bulky spun, wool like-durable,
Propylene + Blended Esp. with WOOL.
Socks, Blankets, Awnings,
Ammonia
Resistance to weather Outerwear, Carpets,
ACRYLIC Alone / Blended Poor –Shrink when washed Furnishings
Modified Acrylics- Are Flame resistant
MODA-ACRYLIC Protective Clothing
Used for Warm &
DUNOVA Acrylic Fiber Very PORUS Absorbent-Underwear
Excellent Abrasion , wind, water Protective Clothing
resistance.. Carpeting, Umbrellas. Sports
Elasticity, goods,
NYLON Amide Heat set
Widest end use-
Heat-Flame-resistant,
POLYESTER Antistatic, High Crimp,
Ester Very Versatile fiber Low pill, High strength..
Strong abrasion resistance
Low softening temp. Ropes, Cables, Nets, Filters
No wrinkle Sports Undergarments
OLEFINS Upholstery, carpeting
Poly-ethylene Absorbs no water Carpet backing
58. FIBER NAME Sub-group PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS
Water repellent
FLUORO Tetra Fluoro-ethylene Heat & Chemical resistance
FIBERS Cannot be dyed Weather proof clothing
CHLORO
FIBERS PVC High Chemical resistance Protective & thermal wear
Highly extensible,
Elastic,
Dyed easily,
Compared to Rubber Swimwear, stockings,
ELASTOMERS Poly urethane Dyed, Washable Stretch clothing
RUBBER
Elastomer
Extensible, dyeable, resistance
Elastomer to body oils, long shelf life than Shape wear, Hosiery,
SPANDEX/lycra rubber, Swimwear, Biking
Poly Vinyl Alcohol- Water- Soluble & insoluble
VINYALS PVA types Adhesives, Separation yarns
Resistance to Alkalis, Heat,
ARMIDS Amide Chemicals, Flame, aromatic, P rotective Clothing
59. FIBER NAME Sub-group PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS
Does not Burn Draperies of Public buildings,
Low moisture Absorption Reinforced plastics
GLASS GLASS Brittle
High strength, High Heat
CARBON CARBON resistance Reinforced plastics
Lurex- thin sheet of metal like
METAL METAL fine ribbon Lurex trims & borders,
