This document provides an overview of fashion designers from the 20th century through today. It discusses influential designers from each decade and their signature designs, including Coco Chanel, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Mary Quant, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, Jason Wu, and Alber Elbaz. Each designer's background and key contributions to the fashion industry are summarized. Influences on fashion from events like the world wars, hippie movement, and technology era are also mentioned. The document includes images and citations to provide context on the highlighted designers and periods.
1. 20th Century Fashion
Designers
Name: Kitty Goh Xin Ting (201410016)
Maffinda Liu Sze Min (201410011)
Wong Jing Wen (201410004)
Lecturer: Ms. Dot MacKenzie
Module: Critical Thinking
Date: 17th July 2014
2. Outline
• Introduction to designers in these periods:
-1900s-1920s
-1930s-1940s
-1950s-1960s
-1970s-1980s
-1990s-2000s
-2000s-current
• Influences on fashion history
• Contributions
• Signature designs
3. 1900’s- 1920’s
Influence on Fashion History
1900s- 1910s
Industrial Revolution
1910s
World War l
1920s
Roaring 20s
( Estherlarson, 2011)
4. 1900’s- 1920’s1900s- 1920s
Paul Poiret
• French Designer (Clark, 2007)
• Born on April 8th 1879, in Paris (Poiret
1879, 2002)
• Known as “King of Fashion” (Poiret
1879, 2002) or “ Father of Modern
Fashion” (Clark, 2007)
• Could not eliminate the use of corsets
(Clark, 2007)
“It was my inspiration of artists, in my
dressing of theatrical pieces, that I served the
public of my day” (Paul Poiret 1879-1944,
n.d.)
6. 1900s- 1920s
Coco Chanel
• Born in Saumur, in the Loire Valley of France
• Lived in poverty since young
• Convent education
• Inspired by the hardship of her early life & men’s clothing
• Eliminated the use of corsets
• Used Jersey in most of her design (fabric ommonly used
for men’s underwear)
(Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883- 1971) and the House of
Chanel, n.d.)
8. 1930s- 1940s
Influence on Fashion
History
1930s
• Depression Era
1940s
• World War ll
• Military Influence
( Estherlarson, 2011)
( Estherlarson, 2011)
9. 1930s- 1940s
Elsa Schiaparelli
• Italian designer (Sowray, 2012)
• Born on September 10, 1890, in Rome
• (Biography.com, n.d.) (Sowray, 2012)
• Became famous- cooperated with artist -
Salvador Dali
• “Schiaparelli pink”- packaging of perfume
• Created zippers in colors
• Presented her ideas - catwalk accompanied
by music & art
11. 1930s- 1940s
Madeleine Vionnet
• Born in June 22, 1876 (Medeleine
Vionnet, n.d.)
• Called “ queen of the bias cut” and
“architect among dressmakers”
(Medeleine Vionnet, n.d.)
• Influenced by Greeks (Vionnet, master
in manipulating fabric, n.d.)
“when a woman smiles, then her dress
should smile too” (Vionnet, n.d.)
14. 1950s-1960s
Pierre Cardin
• Born on 7th July 1922, Venice, Italy.
• Fond of ballet and theatre.
• World's best designer in 1962.
• Influenced by art of Salvador Dali and
Pablo Picasso.
(IMDb, 2014)
(Fashion School Daily, n.d.)
15. 1950s-1960s
Contribution
•Goodwill Ambassador of UNESCO in 1991
•Support ed World Foundation for AIDS Research and Prevention Programs
•Humanitarian Projects
•Global Traveler
(IMDb, 2014)
(Innovations in Civic Participation, n.d.)
17. Mary Quant
• Born on 11th January 1934
• London, England.
• Inventor of mini-skirt and hot pants
(Aqidah, n.d.)
• Received medal of achievement from
Queen in 1966 (Fact Monster, 2007)
• Influenced by Chelsea beatniks she
knew and dance outfits she
remembered from childhood lessons
(Victoria and Albert Museum, 2014)
(Aqidah, n.d.)
1950s-1960s
18. Signature design
(Victoria and Albert Museum, 2014)
•Simple shapes combined with
strong colours.
•Low prices.
(Victoria and Albert Museum, 2014)
•Create a London Look:
-Knee-high
-White
-Patent
-Plastic
-Lace up boots
-Tight, skinny rib sweaters i stripes
& bold checks
21. 1970s-1980s
Ralph Lauren
• Born on 14th October 1939, New York.
• His style has sense of snobbism.
• Influenced by his wife.
(Infomat Fashion, 2013)
• Won COTY Award in 1970.
(Andrea, 2011)
• American Fashion Award in 1975.
(Polo Sport, 2011)
(Koket, 2013)
22. 1970s-1980s
Contribution
•Established Fashion Targets Breast Cancer (FTBC) in 1990.
•Donated $13 million to Smithsonian Institution in 1998.
•Established Ralph Lauren Centre for cancer care
and prevention in 2001.
(Look to the Stars, 2014)
24. 1970s-1980s
Calvin Klein
• Born on 19th November 1942, New York.
• Sales of 200,000 pairs of jeans were sold in
1978.
• Youthful, understated.
(Parmodt782, 2013)
• Won COTY Awards from 1972-1974.
• Won American's Best Designer Award in 1993.
(Indobase, n.d.)
(Davis, n.d.)
28. Marc Jacobs
• Born in New York City, April 9th 1963 (
Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)
• In the fall of 1993 ( Marc Jacobs Biography,
n.d.)
- Own licensing and design company
• In 1994 ( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)
frst full collection of menswear
• In 1997 ( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)
- Appointed Louis Vuitton’s (LV) creative
director
First ready-to-wear clothing line
( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)
(Marc Jacobs, n.d.)
29. Contributions of Marc Jacobs
(Marc Jacobs beauty packaging design by Established, 2013) (GOOD UNIQUE FASHION, 2012)
30. Designs
• pairs patterns and textures (Critchell, 2011)
• finds balance between artistry and commercialism (Critchell, 2011)
• sees the importance in a visual statement (Critchell, 2011)
• Influenced on “grunge” (Dung Le, n.d.)
( Reuters, 2012)
(Marc Jacobs 2009, Too Weird for Normal People, 2009)
31. Tom Ford
(Tom Ford is a Fashion God, 2013)
• Born in Austin, Texas, August 27th 1961
(Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)
• In 1992 (Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)
- rising to Design Director
• In 1994 (Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)
- Creative Director in Gucci
• In 2005 (Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)
- own fashion company (Tom Ford Brand)
32. Contribution of Marc Jacobs
(Tom Ford collection of cosmetics for men, n.d.) (Verma, 2013) (FashionLover3, n.d.)
33. Designs
(London Fashion Week / Tom Ford
Spring-Summer collection 2014, 2013)
(London Fashion Week / Tom Ford
Spring-Summer collection 2014,
2013)(Joan, 2011)
• Classic simplicity (Rules of Style From
Tom Ford, n.d.)
• Mixing patterns (Rules of Style From
Tom Ford, n.d.)
35. Jason Wu
(About Jason Wu, n.d.)
• Born in Taiwan, September 27th 1982 (Jason
Wu, n.d.)
• In 2007 (About Jason Wu, n.d.)
- debuting his Ready-to-Wear collection
• January 2009 (All About Jason Wu: American
Designer Catapulted to Fame, n.d.)
- Michelle Obama wore a white gown to her
husband's first Inaugural Ball
• In 2011 (About Jason Wu, n.d.)
- handbag and shoe collection
• In June 2010 (About Jason Wu, n.d.)
- won the Swarovski Award for Womenswear at
the CFDA Fashion Awards
37. Designs
• Design Collection for Target (Jason Wu releases collection
at Target Stores, 2012)
- Idea of American girl in Paris
- Fresh, new line
- Cat (Milu) decorated on some garments
(Jason Wu releases collection at Target stores, 2012)(Zipp, 2009)
38. Alber Elbaz
(Alber Elbaz, n.d.)
• Born in Casablanca, Morocco, in 1961
(Alexander, 2011)
• In 2001 (Alexander, 2011)
- Creative director of Lanvin
• CFDA's 2005 International Designer
Award (Alexander, 2011)
• In 2007, Paris (Alexander, 2011)
- highly prestigious Legion of Honour
• In November 2010 (Alexander, 2011)
- H&M for Lanvin line
41. References
• About Jason Wu. (n.d.). Retrieved 7 July 2014 from Jason Wu: http://www.jasonwustudio.com/about/.
• Alber Elbaz. (n.d.). Retrieved 7 July 2014 from FashionIndustryArchive:
http://fashionindustryarchive.com/people/Alber-Elbaz/.
• Alexander, E. (2011). Alber Elbaz. Retrieved 7 July 2014 from Vogue:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/alber-elbaz-biography.
• All About Jason Wu: American Designer Catapulted to Fame. (n.d.). Retrieved 7 July 2014 from StyleList:
http://www.stylelist.com/view/all-about-jason-wu-american-designer-catapulted-fame/.
• Andrea. (2011). Retrieved 7 July 2014 from http://mynextshoes.net/tag/ralph-lauren/.
• Aqidah. (n.d.) Retrieved 7 July 2014 from http://www.beautytipsmart.com/top-10-most-famous-british-
women-fashion-designers.html/.
• Baby Boomer Central. (2010). Retrieved 7 July 2014 from
http://www.babyboomercentral.com.au/icons_miniskirt.htm.
• Bias cut. (n.d.). Retrieved 7 July 2014 from http://wikifashion.com/wiki/Bias_cut.
• Biography. Com (n.d.). Biography Coco Chanel. Retrieved 7 July 2014 from
http://www.lifetimetv.co.uk/biography/biography-coco-chanel.
42. • Brajovic, S. (2012). Lanvin Fall 2012- Stunning Collection Alber Elbaz's creates for his 10th
anniversary@Maison Lanvin. Retrieved from sarabrajovic: http://sarabrajovic.com/2012/11/lanvin-fall-2012-
stunning-collection-alber-elbazs-creates-for-his-10th-anniversary-maison-lanvin/.
• Chanel Wallpaper Bit. (n.d.). Retrieved from Wallsistah.com: http://wallsistah.com/chanel-wallpaper-bit/.
• Clark, S. (2007). Paul Poiret’s Contribution to Fashion Design. Retrieved from
http://www.fashionschoolreview.com/news/paul-poiret.html.
• CRITCHELL, S. (2011). Fashion industry prepares lovefest for Marc Jacobs. Retrieved from Today Style:
http://www.today.com/id/43270623/ns/today-today_style/t/fashion-industry-prepares-lovefest-marc-
jacobs/#.U8En7_QW3tk.
• Davis. M. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.fashionwindows.com/fit-receives-2-million-gift-from-calvin-
klein/.
• Elsa Schiaparelli and Sunday galleries. (2010). The History Blog [ Blog post]. Retrieved from
http://www.thehistoryblog.com/archives/date/2010/08.
• Estherlarson. (2011). Fashion History. Retrieved from http://www.slideshare.net/estherlarson/fashion-history
• Fact Monster. (2007). Retrieved from http://www.factmonster.com/ipka/A0906905.html.
• Fairley, J. (2008). We should Coco! A celebration of Channel. Retrieved from
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/you/article-1095658/We-Coco-A- celebration-Chanel.html.
• Fashion School Daily. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.fashionschooldaily.com/index.php/2012/06/14/that-
guy-is-pierre-cardin/.
• Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883- 1971) and the House of Chanel. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm.
43. • Hamlin, C. (2014). Lancome Jason Wu 2014: Pre Fall Collection Available Now! [VIDEO PREVIEW]
Designer Teams Up with Lupita Nyong'o & Lily Collins Loving Makeup Brand For Second Collaboration.
Retrieved from Beauty World News: http://www.beautyworldnews.com/articles/9711/20140607/lancome-
jason-wu-2014-pre-fall-collection-available-now-video-preview-designer-teams-up-with-lupita-nyongo-lily-
collins-loving-makeup-brand-for-second-collaboration.htm.
• Howard, J. (n.d.). Tom Ford, A Fashion Icon Revealed. Retrieved from About.com:
http://fashiondesigners.about.com/od/Popular_Fashion_Designers/a/Tom-Ford-A-Fashion-Icon-
Revealed.htm.
• IMDb. (2014). Retrieved from http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0136467/bio.
• Indobase. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.indobase.com/fashion/fashion-designers/calvin-klein.html.
• Infomat Fashion. (2013). Retrieved from http://fashion.infomat.com/ralph-lauren-designer.html.
• Innovations in Civic Participation. (n.d.) Retrieved from http://www.icicp.org/2014/06/icp-founder-and-
director-susan-stroud-presents-research-findings-at-unesco-summit-in-paris/.
• Isaspacey. (2011, June 22). As I Said...[Pierre Cardin-Geometric Guru]. Retrieved from
http://lifeisexamined.blogspot.com/2011_06_01_archive.html.
• Jason Wu. (n.d.). Retrieved from FMD: http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/jason-wu/.
• Jason Wu Fall 2012 Shoes Collection. (2012). Retrieved from Become Gorgeous:
http://www.becomegorgeous.com/fashion-style/shoes/jason_wu_fall_2012_shoes_collection-7648.html.
• Jason Wu releases collection at Target stores. (2012). Retrieved from BaylorLariat:
http://baylorlariat.com/2012/02/22/jason-wu-releases-collection-at-target-stores/.
44. • Koket. (2013). Retrieved from http://www.bykoket.com/blog/top-50-fashion-designers/.
• Leibovitz, A. (n.d.). Marc Jacobs. Retrieved from models.com: http://models.com/people/marc-jacobs.
• LONDON FASHION WEEK / TOM FORD COLECȚIA PRIMĂVARĂ-VARĂ 2014. (2013). Retrieved from Fashion Guide:
http://fashionguide.md/blog/fashion/fashion-week/london-fashion-week-tom-ford-colectia-primavara-vara-2014.html.
• Look to the stars. (2014). Retrieved from https://www.looktothestars.org/celebrity/ralph-lauren.
• Madeleine Vionnet, master in manipulating fabric. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-manipulating-fabric/.
• Madeleine Vionnet. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.pinterest.com/pin/518054763357359176/.
• Madeleine Vionnet. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.vionnet.com/madeleine-vionnet.
• Marc Jacobs. (n.d.). Retrieved from Influential Designers: http://influentialdesigners.weebly.com/marc-jacobs.html.
• Marc Jacobs 2009: Too Weird for Normal People. (2009). Retrieved from LOVELYISH:
http://www.lovelyish.com/2009/08/23/marc-jacobs-2009-too-weird-for-normal-people/.
• Marc Jacobs Biography. (n.d.). Retrieved from bio.: http://www.biography.com/people/marc-jacobs-594096#struggles-and-
success&.
• Marc Jacobs catwalk show at New York fashion week . (2012). Retrieved from theguardian:
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/video/2012/sep/11/marc-jacobs-new-york-fashion-video.
• Mary. (2010). Coco Chanel, 20th century fashion icon. Retrieved from http://www.inrumor.com/in/all/coco-chanel-
20th-century-fashion-icon/.
• Net Industries. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://encyclopedia.jrank.org/articles/pages/6291/Klein-Calvin.html.
45. • Parmodt782. (2013). Retrieved from http://www.studymode.com/essays/Calvin-Kelin-Presentation-
1430630.html
• Paul Poiret~ 1879- 1944. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://headtotoefashionart.com/paul-poiret-1879-1944/
• Paul Poiret 1879. (2002). Retrieved from
http://www.google.com.my/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=16&ved=0CGoQFjAP&url=http%
3A%2F%2Fwww.pages.drexel.edu%2F~np44%2FFASH201%2FPoiret1879.pdf&ei=B8bAU5-
QIoei8AWQ0IDADQ&usg=AFQjCNERLwd_6GshM0dcQNP8H4qr7vnK4g&bvm=bv.70810081,d.dGc
• Paul Poiret. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.pinterest.com/cls1956/paul-poiret/
• Pinterest. (2014). Retrieved from http://www.pinterest.com/pin/344173596494440459/
• Polo Sport. (2011). Retrieved from http://www.polosport.org/ralph-lauren-in-the-1970s/
• Rules Of Style From Tom Ford. (n.d.). Retrieved from Details: http://www.details.com/style-advice/rules-of-
style/200811/rules-of-style-from-designer-tom-ford
• Schiaparelli- shoe- hat. (2011). Retrieved from http://www.getbullish.com/2011/09/bullish-3-career-mistakes-
young- women-make-and-how-to-smash-the-competition/schiaparelli-shoe-hat/
• Sowray, B. (2012). Elsa Schiaparelli. Retrieved from http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/elsa-
schiaparelli
46. • The Fashion Spot. (2008). Retrieved from http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f52/patti-hansen-61980.html.
• THE LANCÔME SHOW BY ALBER ELBAZ COLLECTION. (2013). Retrieved from MailmMovement:
http://www.mailmovement.com/the-lancome-show-by-alber-elbaz-collection/.
• The Red List. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1185-1192-view-stars-1-profile-ralph-
lauren-3.html.
• The Week. (2011). Retrieved from http://www.theweek.co.uk/pictures/42504/poster-babes-1970s/page/4/0.
• The World of Kays. (2011). Retrieved from http://www.worldofkays.org/website/body-image/1960-2.
• Tom Ford Biography. (n.d.). Retrieved from bio.: http://www.biography.com/people/tom-ford-5936.
• Tom Ford is a Fashion God. (n.d.). Retrieved from Joan Davis Blog: http://joandavisblog.com/tag/tom-ford/.
• Verma, G. (2013). TOM FORD PERFUMES FOR SALE(INDIA). Retrieved from Premium Niche Fragrance
For Sale in India: http://splashfragnance.blogspot.com/2013/05/tom-ford-perfumes-for-saleindia.html.
• Victoria and Albert Museum. (2014). Retrieved from http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/mary-quant/
• Zipp, M. (2009). Jason Wu Designs Michelle Obama's Ball Gown. Retrieved from thestir:
http://thestir.cafemom.com/beauty_style/2449/jason_wu_designs_michelle_obamas.
• (2012). Retrieved from GOOD UNIQUE FASHION:
http://gooduniquefashion.blogspot.com/2012/12/perfume-trends-most-recommenda-create.html.