1.
FIBRE TO FABRIC
FIBRE YARN FABRIC
Damayanti Meher
DRDO-SRF
Defence Research & Development Establishment
Date: 08.07.2019
Textile Manufacturing & Fabric Technology

2.
CONTENTS
Introduction of Textile fibers
Classification of textile fibers
Yarn manufacturing process(Spinning)- Synthetic & natural
Fabric manufacturing Process (Weaving)
Wet Chemical Processing of textile (Fiber, Yarn & Fabric)
 Dyeing
 Printing
 Finishing

3.
What is textile fibers?
It is a material mainly made from natural or synthetic sources. It is a hair
like strand having high length to diameter ratio. It is the smallest visible
unit of textile production.
Properties of textile fiber:
1. Staple Length
2. Strength
3. Elasticity
4. Uniformity
5. Spinnability
INTRODUCTIONS

4.
Textile Fibres
Natural Fibres
Animal
Fibres
Misc
Glass
Fibre
Vegetable
source
Animal
Source
Pure
Cellulosic
Modified
Cellulosic
Man made Fibres
Vegetable
Fibres
Mineral
Fibres
Inorganic
Fibres
Synthetic
Fibres
Regenerated
Fibres
Hair
Fibres
Secretion
Fibres
Fruit
Fibres
Leaf
Fibres
Bast
Fibres
Seed
Fibres
cellulosic
Fibres
Protein
Fibres
Polyamide
Polysters
Polyolefins
Polyvinyls
Polyurethanes
Zein
peanut
Casine
Viscose
Polynosic
Cupramonium
AlginateTricel/dicel
Wool
mohair
Silk
Cotton
Kapok
Jute
Hemp
Linen
ramie
Sisal
pineappl
e
Coir
Classification of Textile Fibers
Asbestos

5.
FIBRE YARN
DYEING/PRINTING
FABRIC
FINISHING
FABRIC READY
FOR USE
FIBRE YARN FABRIC
DYEING/PRINTI
NG
FINISHING
FABRIC
READY FOR
USE
FROM FIBER TO FABRIC

6.
COTTON SPINNING PROCESS DIAGRAM
Raw material
Blow Room
Carding
Draw Frame
Roving Frame
Carded Yarn
For Carded Yarn
Ring Frame
Raw material
Blow Room
Carding
Ribbon/Sliver Lap
Comber
Roving Frame
Draw Frame
Ring Frame
Combed Yarn
For Combed Yarn

7.
BLOW ROOM PROCESS
OBJECTIVES :
1. Opening
2. Cleaning
3. Blending
4. Mixing

8.
CARDING PROCESS
OBJECTIVES:
1. Opening in to individual fiber
2. Cleaning
3. Removal of short fibers
4. Parallelization
5. Sliver formation
1. Hopper feeder cylinder
2. Analogue pressure switch
3. Microcomputer
4. Colier
5. Lap thickness sensor
6. Funnel with monitoring sensor for
quality sliver
7. Card feeder cylinder
CARDING MACHINE

9.
DRAWING FRAME
Drawing is a operation by which slivers are blended, doubled or leveled
and by drafting reduced to proper sized sliver suitable of being fed to
simplex
It influence on quality of yarn(final product), as draw frame is the last
point of compensation for the elimination of error to produced by
subsequent m/c
OBJECTIVES:
Drafting
Parallelization
Improved Evenness
Dust Removal
Drafting Zone Drafting M/c

10.
ROVING FRAME
OBJECTIVES:
Drafting
Twisting(protective twist impart)
Winding
ROVING M/C BOBBIN PROFILE

11.
RING FRAME
The Ring frame transform roving from roving frame to spun yarn by
following operation
Drafting - Attenuate the roving until the required fineness is achieved
Twisting -To impart strength to the fiber strand by twisting it
Winding - To wind up the resultant yarn in a form suitable for storage ,
transportation and further processing
Drafting Zone Drafting M/c
Ring Frame Machine

12.
Manufacturing of the fibre forming polymer.
Spinning ( extrusion through spinneret)
Stretching/Drawing ( improving strength and crystanillity)
Texturing/Crimping ( developing natural fibre properties)
Intermingling/Interlacing (applied instead of twisting)
Heat setting (made dimensionally stable)
Cutting: According to requirements.
Flow chart of Man Made Fiber production

13.
The conversion of polymer into fibre is called spinning. The fibre forming
substance is made temporarily fluid, extruded through spinneret and then
returned to solid state (by solidification) in fibre form
Three types of spinning process:
– Melt spinning (Synthetic).
–Wet spinning.
– Dry spinning.
MAN MADE FIBRE SPINNING

14.
MAN MADE FIBRE SPINNING TECHNOLOGY

15.
PARAMETERS MELT SPINNING DRY SPINNING WET SPINNING
Process The process of spinning by
which fibre or filament is
produced from melted
polymer chips by extruding
through spinneret
continuous filament
produced here.
In dry spinning, the fibre
forming polymer dissolved
in a volatile solvent is
introduced into a heated
drying chamber where the
solvent is evaporated and
solid fibre is obtained
through spinneret
In wet spinning the dope
is extruded through
spinneret and in contact
of coagulant cellulose is
regenerated.
Solvent Not Required Only volatile organic solvent Both organic or non
organic solvent can be
used
Spinning Speed 3000 m/min 500-1500 m/min 30-300 m/min
Heat of
spinning
High Very High Low
Application Filament / Staple Filament Filament / Staple
Hazard Non Toxic Toxic Toxic
Investment
Cost
Low High Low
Fibre can be
spunned
PET, Polyamide, Polyolefine Cellulose acetate, Triacetate,
Acrylic
Viscose, Cuprammonium,
Acrylic
SPINNING DIFFERENCE

16.
DRY JET WET SPINNING
Dry jet wet spinning is a modification of wet spinning, where the spinneret
is kept just outside the surface of coagulation bath. In this case, the fibre is
extruded into air/gaseous environment and then is pulled inside a
coagulation bath
Example : Meta-aramide Fibre (Kevlar, Nomex)
General Characteristic of Meta-aramide
Fibre :
•Good resistance to abrasion
•Good thermal insulation
•Nonconductive under normal condition
•No melting point, degradation start from
500◦C
•Low Flammability
•Good Fabric integrity at higher temp Dry – Jet Wet Spinning Process

17.
FORMATION OF FABRIC
• Weaving
• Knitting
• Braiding
• Nonwovens

18.
WEAVING
• Interlacement of yarn is called Weaving
Warp
Plain Weave
Weft
There are three basic weaves:
1.Plain
2.Twill
3.Sateen
Twill weaveSateen weave

19.
MATERIAL FLOW IN WEAVING
WINDING
WARPING
SIZING
DRAWING IN
WEAVING

20.
WINDING
OBJECTIVES:
• To produced a good package that contain long length of yarn &
unwound well during warping
• To removed objectionable yarn fault
Yarn Package

21.
OBJECTIVES:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarn so that they can be
collected on a single warper ’s beam
An operation where yarn is transferred from single packages of yarn
to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound
on to a warp beam.
WARPING

22.
OBJECTIVES:
 To Improve the tensile strength &
abrasion resistance of yarn
Strengthen the yarn
Make outer surface of yarn smoother
Lubricate the yarn
Adhesives : Starch and gum
Lubricant : Fatty & Oily substance
SIZING
Sizing Machine

23.
DRAWING -IN
This is a process of drawing every warp end through its drop wire, heald
eye and reed dents
Drawing –in process

24.
Shedding
Picking
Beating
Take up
Let off
Warp stop
Weft stop
DIFFERENT MOTIONS OF WEAVING

25.
Shedding
To Separate the warp thread in to
two layers, one is raised and other is
lower
Picking
To insert weft thread across the
warp through shed
Beat Up
To push the weft yarn that has
been inserted across the warp ,to
the fell of the cloth
PRIMARY MOTION

26.
Take Up Motion
To draw the fabric to the
cloth roller regularly as it
woven, maintaining the pick
density and pick spacing
through out the cloth
Let-Off Motion
To regulate the amount of warp
delivered from the warp beam
during weaving
To maintain the necessary
tension upon the warp
To influence the number of picks
per unit space in a fabric being
subsidiary to take up motion
SECONDARY MOTION

27.
FACTOR EFFECT THE PROPERTIES OF END PRODUCT
Parameter Fabric Properties
Fiber Length 1. Durability-Tensile strength,
Tearing strength, Abrasion
resistance
2. Aesthetic Properties-
Drape, Stiffness, Stability,
Crease recovery
3. Comfort- Waterproof,
Water repellent, stretch
and recovery, Thermal
insulation
4. Maintenance – Color
fastness,(light, rubbing,
perspiration) storage(moth
resistance, stain
resistance)
Fineness
Type of fibre
Yarn Count
Twist
Process of manufacturing
Fabric Weave
Yarn density
Fabric manufacturing process
Fabric dyeing process
Dye/ finish Solubility
Compatibility

28.
WET CHEMICAL PROCESSING OF TEXTILE
There are three step of wet processing sector
Preparation process Coloration process Finishing Process
These process ensure
that textile have the
right physical and
chemical properties to
enable them to be
colored or finished
Examples:
Singeing
De-sizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Heat Setting etcs .
The processes exist to
provide the textile with
color either for
aesthetic reasons or
for some functional
purpose determined by
the product
Examples:
Dyeing
Printing
These processes exist
to provide the textile
with the properties that
the end- use demand
and which have not
already been provided
by any earlier process.
Examples:
Starch Finish
Resin Finish
Water Repellent
Flame Retardant

29.
Dyestuff is organic or inorganic substances which can absorb light
and reflect some lights to show color . Actually the dyestuff is water
soluble substance
Pigment is a substance that can absorb light and reflect some light to
show color but it is water insoluble substances. Normally it is used for
printing(with the presence of binder) or mass –coloration of the
synthetic fibres
Mechanism of Dyeing:
1. Moving of dyestuff from dye bath to surface of fibre
2. Adsorption of the dyestuff into the surface of the fibre
3. Diffusion of dyestuff in to the interior of the fibre
Basic Textile Term & Definitions Used in Dyeing

30.
Coloring
matter
Direct
Dye
Pigment
Ingrain Dye
Natural Dye
Synthetic Dye
Dyestuff
Water insoluble DyeWater soluble Dye
Vat Dye
Sulphur
Dye
Disperse
Dye
Reactive
Dye
Acid
Dye
Basic
Dye
Optical
whitener
Mineral
color
Oxidation
Color
Azoic
Dye
phthalocyanineMineralVatAzoic
Classification of
Dyes

31.
Dyeing process can be applied in many stages such as :
CLASSIFICATIONS OF DYEING PROCESS
1.Mass coloration method is for dyeing of molten
fibre or plastic chip or textile polymer with pigment
dyes. After that the molten or polymer will extrude
from a spinneret to form fibre
2.Fibre Dyeing is method of dyeing fibre dyeing
before it blend with other color to giver fancy
yarn or fabric
3.Yarn Dyeing is a method of dyeing yarns in hank
form s or package dyeing. This is used in
handloom weaving
4.Fabric Dyeing is the method after weaving,
knitting or non woven to make fabric. This is
very popular method of dyeing as the dyed
fabric will be processed further to garment
industries easily.

32.
Fibre, Dye & Dye- Fibre Bonds
Fibre Dye Class having affinity Types of dye-fibre bonds
Cellulosic :Cotton, Jute,
rayon etc
• Direct, Vat and Sulphur Vander waals’ forces
and Hydrogen bond
• Reactive Covalent bonds
Protein/Polyamide:
Wool, Silk, nylons
Direct, acid, metal
complex and basic
Ionic or electrostatic
bonds
Reactive Covalent bonds
Polyster Disperse Vander waals’ forces
and Hydrogen bond
Cationic dyeable PET Cationic Ionic or electrostatic
bonds
Disperse Vander waals’ forces
and Hydrogen bond
Acrylic Cationic Ionic or electrostatic
bonds
Disperse Vander waals’ forces
and Hydrogen bond

33.
What is Printing ?
Printing is a branch of dyeing and is generally defined as the “
Localised Dyeing” i.e dyeing which is confined to certain portion
of the fabric that constitute the design
Defined as the application of dye or pigment in a different
pattern on the fabric and by Subsequent after treatment of fixing
the dye or pigment to get a particular design
In cotton , dye likes vat, reactive are used
In man made , dye likes disperse and cationic
> 26 billion m2 screen printed fabric produced every year(Du pont
Report)

34.
In printing style means the manner in which a printed effect
produced
There are three approaches to printing a color on fabric:
1. DIRECT PRINTING
2. DISCHARAGE PRINTING
3. RESIST PRINTING
DIFFERENT STYLE OF PRINTING

35.
In this type of printing dye is applied on to the fabric by craved block,
stencil, screen, Engraved roller etc.
The Dye is imprinted on fabric in paste form and any desire pattern may be
produced
Example : Block printing, Roller Printing, Screen Printing
DIRECT PRINTING

36.
In this method the fabric is dyed and then printing with chemical that
will destroy the color in designed area.
Some time the base color is removed and another color printed in its place
DISCHARAGE PRINTING
White Discharge printing Color Discharge printing

37.
White Discharge
Color Discharge
Application of
discharge paste
Application of
discharge paste
Discharging agent Dye
Rongalite C Azoic dye , direct,
acid, reactive
ground
Safoline Disperse dye
Sodium bi-sulphite Naptholated
ground
Tin salt Color discharge of
azo dye

38.
In this method bleached fabric are printed with a resist paste ( a resinous
substance that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye .
The dye will only affect the parts that are not covered by the resist paste.
After the fabric has passed through a subsequent dyeing process the resist
paste is removed leaving a pattern on a dark background
RESIST PRINTING
Bandhej Fabric Ikat Fabric

39.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
ROLLER PRINTING
SCREEN PRINTING

40.
ROTARY PRINTING
TRANSFER
PRINTING
BATIK PRINTING

41.
Fabric finishes are used to improve the fabric in some way. This could be:
Improve appearance - color, pattern
Change the texture of fabric - embossing, brushing/ smoothing
Improve the feel- softer, crisper, firmer
Improved wearing qualities- crease recovery, waterproof, flame retardant
 Provide aesthetic value
 Soften fabric or change the hand
 Add to durability
 Adds to comfort
 Provide safety
 Improves performance
Why are fabric finishes used ?
What Finishing Do?

42.
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
Finishing mainly falls in to three category -
1.Temporary Finish: not stable goes off after 1st wash
Mechanical – Calendring , Embossing etc
Chemical – Starching, Softening (except reactive softener)
2.Permanent Finish : Not effected or disappear through out all condition
Mechanical – Sanforizing , Milling,
Chemical - Resin finish, water proof, FR finish
3.Semi- Permanent : stable not more that 5 to 10 washes
Mechanical – Schreiner Calendring
Chemical - Buckram finish

43.
FLAME RETARDANT FINISH
FR finishes provide textile with an imp performance characteristic that is it
stopped the propagation of fibre when it comes in contact with fire
FR finish is a surface finishes and coating that inhibit Suppress or delay
the production of flames to prevent the spread of fire
Element of FR finish:
1. Bromine, Phosphorus, Nitrogen &
Chlorine
2. Inorganic Compound
Process:
Pad – Dry- Cure

44.
WATER REPELLENT FINISH
Characteristics:
Water repellent finish are chemical finish
Resist the penetration of water in to the fabric
Permit the passage of moisture or air through the fabric(breathable fabric)
Element of WR finish:
1. Metallic salt- aluminium/lead acetate
2. Silicone emulsion , Wax Emulsion
3.Pyridinium compound
4. Fluro-carbons
Process:
Pad – Dry- Cure

45.
INSECT REPELLENT FINISH
Insect repellent agent : It is a substance applied to skin, clothing, or other
surfaces which discourages insect from landing or climbing on that surface.
Aim of LLIRF : To protect from
insects which causes different
type of diseases.
Chemical used: Permethrin
Process: Pad – Dry - Cure

46.
LAMINATION
Lamination involved binding together two or more
fabric of same or different varieties to increase
strength and other properties.
The technique of lamination are:
Hot melt bonding
Adhesive Bonding
Stitching Bonding
Flame lamination
Hot melt bonding:
Laminating agent Used- Cellulose acetate ,
Thermoplastic resin etc
Process :
Laminating agent sandwich between fabric -
calender
Adhesive Bonding:
Adhesive used: Reactive monomer like acrylamide,
N-methylolacrylamide
Process: Pad- Dry - Cure Hot melt Lamination M/c