3. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
1.1. Clothes made in the home, someClothes made in the home, some
homes even producing the rawhomes even producing the raw
materials such as cotton.materials such as cotton.
2.2. Custom-madeCustom-made-clothing fitted-clothing fitted
specifically to the wearerspecifically to the wearer
5. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
3.3. 1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn
together to make the first RTWtogether to make the first RTW
dressdress
Ready to wear – clothing made in
factories to standardize
measurements.
6.
7. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay)Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay)
french term for ready to wear.french term for ready to wear.
9. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
Garment District – Seventh AveGarment District – Seventh Ave
(Fashion Avenue)(Fashion Avenue)
WHY DID NYC BECOME THEWHY DID NYC BECOME THE
CENTER OF THE GARMENTCENTER OF THE GARMENT
INDUSTRY?INDUSTRY?
1.It had a large pool of cheap, immigrant labor.
2.It was located near textile producers in New
England and the South
3.It was a port city
10. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
UnionizationUnionization
1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment
Workers UnionWorkers Union
1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective
bargainingbargaining
1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed
led to strict building codes and protective labor lawsled to strict building codes and protective labor laws
Today – 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations,Today – 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations,
health, welfare and pension programshealth, welfare and pension programs
LOOK FOR THE UNION LABELLOOK FOR THE UNION LABEL
11. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
FIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORYFIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORY
The Triangle factory, at Greene Street andThe Triangle factory, at Greene Street and
Washington Place near the New YorkWashington Place near the New York
University law school, made shirtwaists, orUniversity law school, made shirtwaists, or
woman’s blouses. The blouse and skirt waswoman’s blouses. The blouse and skirt was
the uniform of the truly modern woman.the uniform of the truly modern woman.
Unlike corsets and hoops, the shirtwaist wasUnlike corsets and hoops, the shirtwaist was
practical, and appropriate for the factory.practical, and appropriate for the factory.
12. The Triangle Factory Fire Con’tThe Triangle Factory Fire Con’t
The fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, 1911, asThe fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, 1911, as
workers were getting ready to leave. Some were primping forworkers were getting ready to leave. Some were primping for
dates that evening, others had stopped to chat with friends ondates that evening, others had stopped to chat with friends on
their way out. As was customary at Triangle’s closing time,their way out. As was customary at Triangle’s closing time,
some doors were locked: Management wanted all the workers tosome doors were locked: Management wanted all the workers to
leave by the same exit, so their bags could be checked for stolenleave by the same exit, so their bags could be checked for stolen
goods. Many workers’ deaths were attributed to these lockedgoods. Many workers’ deaths were attributed to these locked
doors. In all, 146 people died. Some burned to death, whiledoors. In all, 146 people died. Some burned to death, while
others jumped to their deaths to escape the flamesothers jumped to their deaths to escape the flames
13.
14. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
CREATION OF WOMEN’SCREATION OF WOMEN’S
APPARELAPPAREL
1.1. Developing a lineDeveloping a line
Collection – expensive lineCollection – expensive line
18. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
2.2. Producing a lineProducing a line – Production– Production
begins when a sample pattern isbegins when a sample pattern is
created and presented to retailcreated and presented to retail
buyers at manufacturer’s seasonalbuyers at manufacturer’s seasonal
shows. Orders are placed orshows. Orders are placed or
dropped.dropped.
19. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
CuttingCutting
Graded or SlopedGraded or Sloped – developed from– developed from
the sample pattern, adjusted to meetthe sample pattern, adjusted to meet
dimensional requirements of eachdimensional requirements of each
size.size.
20. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
MarkerMarker – A long piece of paper– A long piece of paper
upon which the pieces of the patter ofupon which the pieces of the patter of
a garment in all its sizes are outlineda garment in all its sizes are outlined
and which is placed on top of manyand which is placed on top of many
layers of material for cuttinglayers of material for cutting
purposes.purposes.
21. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
The layers of material are placedThe layers of material are placed
accurately by aaccurately by a spreader.spreader.
After pieces are cut , they areAfter pieces are cut , they are
bundledbundled
22. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
BundlingBundling – pattern pieced tied into– pattern pieced tied into
bundles according to their sizesbundles according to their sizes
23. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
2.2. SewingSewing- Most American- Most American
manufacturers are usingmanufacturers are using off-shoreoff-shore
production-production- the manufacture ofthe manufacture of
American goods in cheap laborAmerican goods in cheap labor
foreign countriesforeign countries
24. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
TYPES OF PRODUCERSTYPES OF PRODUCERS
1.1. ManufacturersManufacturers
2.2. Apparel JobbersApparel Jobbers
3.3. ContractorsContractors
25. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
1. Manufacturer – performs all the– performs all the
operations required to productoperations required to product
apparel, from buying the fabric toapparel, from buying the fabric to
selling and shipping the finishedselling and shipping the finished
garment.garment.
Adv.Adv. – close quality control can be– close quality control can be
maintained.maintained.
26. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
2.2. Apparel Jobbers-Apparel Jobbers- handles thehandles the
designing, the planning, thedesigning, the planning, the
purchasing, usually the cutting, thepurchasing, usually the cutting, the
selling, and the shipping, but not theselling, and the shipping, but not the
sewing operation.sewing operation.
27. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
3.3. ContractorContractor – is a producer whose– is a producer whose
sole function is to supply sewingsole function is to supply sewing
services to industry. It is sometimesservices to industry. It is sometimes
called ancalled an outside shopoutside shop..
28. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
MASS PRODUCTIONMASS PRODUCTION
Section work or piece workSection work or piece work – each– each
sewer sews only a certain section of thesewer sews only a certain section of the
garment such as a sleeve or hem.garment such as a sleeve or hem.
29. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
TRADITIONAL BASICTRADITIONAL BASIC
CATEGORIESCATEGORIES
a)a) Outerwear – coats, jacketsOuterwear – coats, jackets
b)b) DressesDresses
c)c) Sportswear and SeparatesSportswear and Separates
d)d) After- five and eveningAfter- five and evening
e)e) SuitsSuits
34. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
Off-price apparel stores- the sellingOff-price apparel stores- the selling
of brand name and designer labelof brand name and designer label
merchandise at lower than normalmerchandise at lower than normal
retail prices.retail prices.
EX: Marshall’s, TJ MaxxEX: Marshall’s, TJ Maxx
36. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
PublicityPublicity
1.1. Supply celebrities with clothsSupply celebrities with cloths
2.2. Fashion Shows and Press Weeks.Fashion Shows and Press Weeks.
3.3. Trunk Shows- A form of pre-testingTrunk Shows- A form of pre-testing
that involves a producer’s sending athat involves a producer’s sending a
representative to a store with samplesrepresentative to a store with samples
and exhibiting those to customers atand exhibiting those to customers at
announced showings.announced showings.
37. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
Trunk Shows give theTrunk Shows give the
designer or manufacturerdesigner or manufacturer
the opportunity to meetthe opportunity to meet
customers in the storecustomers in the store
and obtain anand obtain an on-siteon-site
reactionreaction to the line andto the line and
promote salespromote sales
38. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
QUICK RESPONSE -QUICK RESPONSE - A strategyA strategy
used by manufacturers to shorten theused by manufacturers to shorten the
ordering cycle to compete withordering cycle to compete with
foreign importsforeign imports
