This document summarizes Jen Ballie's PhD research on how textile design can sustainably influence an emerging digital consumer culture. The research uses co-design methods to explore how digital technology can enable collaboration and how workshops can change design pedagogy and practice. The goal is to identify new ways of practicing and teaching textile design that have social, environmental, and economic benefits.

1. E-co-textiles: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital
consumer culture?
Design PhD Conference 2011
Friday 1st July 2011!
Jen Ballie PhD Student
Chelsea College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, London
Email: hello@jenballie.com
www.jenballie.com

2. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Contents!
CONTENTS
PhD overview - WHAT? WHY? WHO?
Methods & Process - HOW?
The Challenges
The Results - what is my original contribution?
Re ections & advice
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

3. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
Research Questions
E-co-Textile Design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
co-design, digital media, sustainability
1. How can co-design be de ned and applied through textile design practice?
2. How can digital technology be used to enable and support co-design practice?
3. How can co-design methods be applied through workshops and how will this change pedagogy and practice?
4. Can this research identify new ways to practice and teach that have social, environmental and economic bene ts?
5. How will technology impact and in uence the way we practice and teach textile design in the future, what new markets will be created?
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

4. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
Over Consumption
The Fashion Industry is worth an estimated £300 billion positioning it as the 6th largest global industry.
• Each year UK fashion consumers spend an average £23 billion (2 million tonnes of clothing)
• 1/5 of these purchases are within the fast/discount sector (characterised by low cost, short lifetimes garments)
• 1.2 million tonnes of these purchases are sent to land ll.
The Sustainable Clothing Roadmap (2009)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

5. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
"I believe a desirable life depends on
our deliberately choosing a life of
action, over a life of consumption, on
our engendering a life style that will
allow us to be spontaneous,
independent, yet related to each
other, rather than maintaining a
lifestyle which only allows us to
produce and consume.”
Ivan Illich (1973)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

6. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
Workshop Title: Old is the New Black / Date: July - Dec 2010 / Location: Fashion Footprints Exhibition, Devon
www.oldisthenewblack.org
What is the role of the designer?
“By habit, we make user-friendly stuff – so simple that we never let users know how it works or what the true cost is.
But we need to design agency and involvement. We need to design for inclusion, repair, co- innovation, and to
involve many more stakeholders as agents and actors”
Dr Otto von Busch (2010)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

7. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs
“People need not only the need to obtain things, they need above all, the freedom to make things among which
they can live, to give shape to them according to their own tastes, and to put them to use in caring for and about
others....” Illich (1973)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

8. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
Collaborative Consumption and the Creative Consumer
“Design not only has to sell itself in the wider world of things but needs to develop relationships with consumers.”
How might we become better owners?
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

9. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
PhD Overview!
The Digital Consumer
“Gen Y were Born between 1977-84 and currently spend $150 billion a year on consumer goods. That’s five times
more than their parents did at their age. They also influence another $50 billion in purchases made by others. Their
profound influence in the market place is directly linked to their familiarity with digital media.”
L2 Lab Generation Next Forum (2010)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

10. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Designing in Beta...
Tools For Conviviality
“Designers have been traditionally know as aesthetic finishers of ideas... Rather than serving as the reproductive
organ of a consumer society, the designer mindset needs to be cultivated to create new methods and tools which
enable people to become empowered and willing to actively contribute to the design of their life and community.”
Ivan Illich (1973)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

11. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Designing in Beta...
Tools For Conviviality
“Designers have been traditionally know as aesthetic finishers of ideas... Rather than serving as the reproductive
organ of a consumer society, the designer mindset needs to be cultivated to create new methods and tools which
enable people to become empowered and willing to actively contribute to the design of their life and community.”
Ivan Illich (1973)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

12. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
1. “Co-creativity requires that one believes that all people
are creative. This is not a commonly accepted belief...”
2. “When we acknowledge that different levels of creativity
exist, it becomes evident that we need to learn how to
offer relevant experiences to facilitate people’s expression
of creativity at all levels”
Liz Sanders | Make Tools (2011)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

13. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
“The notion of participatory design has the potential to identify a new role for the fashion consumer that aims to
promote sustainability by shifting from global to local, from consuming to making and from illusion to imagination.”
Dr Kate Fletcher (2008)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

14. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Project 1: The Shared Scarf Project
1
Public Interaction
2
Pilot 6
5
3 1. co-design workshop
2. co-design workshop
3. co-design workshop
4. co-design workshop
5. market stall - DESIGNERS|MAKERS
4
6. interactive exhibition - Future Everything 2011
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

15. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
The Democratisation of Design
“When the high cost of prototyping can be diffused very widely, the result democratises the opportunity to create.”
Eric Von Hippel (2008)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

16. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Workshop: Exploration of App’s / Date: Jan- ongoing 2011 / Locations: London / Scotland / Sweden
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

17. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
A Play between the Hand & Digital
Quick and Dirty Prototyping
low delity prototypes
hand drawing or embroidery samples are scanned
and digitally manipulated, they are then printed
and re-worked by hand
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

18. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Developing Design Games
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

19. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

20. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Public interaction
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

21. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
online interaction
www.thesharedscarfproject.com
Twitter @sharedscarves
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

22. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Think Make Style Share
Design Thinking Re- ne concept Tweet Tags
Brainstorming Quick & Dirty Prototyping think about how it will be used? Blog / website
Cultural Probes scenarios Community
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

23. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Capturing data from di erent perspectives
Auto-Documentation
A disposable camera and ip camera are placed in the middle of the table and all participants are encouraged to take turns capturing
data. This captures and collects data from their viewpoint.
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

24. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Creating a Shared Space
“Design spaces are where we take turns telling stories, making storyboards, and building prototypes... Sometimes
we take a prototype and create a storyboard around it; other times, we do a sketch that gets us to building another
model. All our discussions are facilitated by either prototypes or the sketches or the storyboards.”
Rheinfrank (2000)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

25. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Project 2: DRESS UP/DOWNload
1
Public Interaction
1
Pilot
3 4
OPEN DESIGN SPACE
2
1. co-design workshop
4 2. co-design workshop via skype
3. online interaction
4. interactive showcase / workshop
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

26. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
www.dressupdownload.com
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

27. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Pilot - running test sessions and producing prototypes
www.dressupdownload.com
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

28. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Methods & Process!
Pilot - running test sessions and producing prototypes
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

29. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Challenges!
“If I had asked people what they wanted they would have asked for a faster horse.”
Henry Ford
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

30. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Challenges!
Designing in Beta: open design
“Essentially everything should be delivered in beta... we should always look at things as unfinished as that’s the only way we
can improve them...
It’s an improvised way of working - put it out there and see if it works
It is about having the opportunity and ability to access and change things - it’s the ultimate form of collaboration...”
Betahaus: Open Design City (2011)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

31. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Challenges!
Collaboration & Meta-design
“Creativity can be exercised in two manners: team creativity and individual creativity.
The key is finding a collaborative rhythm that incorporates both. A good rhythm looks a bit like playing the
concertina, alternating between expression and impression - working seperately, then working together. “
Neumeier (2011)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

32. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Challenges!
The Speed of Technology
“Technology used to dominate innovation. Today, technology is everywhere and accessible to all. Design is far
more important to innovation than technology.
Within the marketplace, the Gen Y cultural preference translates into what I call the “iPhonisation of service”.
Young people want service delivered over Facebook or iPhone or MySpace where they can instantly access it,
share it, change it and use it. “
Nussbaum (2010)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

33. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Challenges!
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

34. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
The Results!
Building a shared space
Who are tomorrow’s consumers?
What will future ‘fast fashion’ experiences be?
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

35. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
The Results!
Building a Platform
“The information age has been hailed are the successor to the industial age, but the true gift of digital
invention is not information. It’s collaboration. We have barely scratched the surface of how intranet sites
can mediate the process of working together. “
Neumeier (2011)
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

36. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
The Results!
So what?
What is your original contribution and
how do you present it?
Written Thesis
Portfolio of practice
A tool kit
A series of scenarios / business models to illustrate “how-to”
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

37. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Reflections!
Transforming Knowledge GODS: Glee of delight
SODS: Sigh of despair
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

38. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Reflections!
Sketchnotes: Visual Note taking
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

39. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Reflections!
Knowledge Swatches
Knowledge Swatch Method: Hazel White & Mdes students 2008-present!
Document talks, presentations, exhibitions, workshops, seminars, tutorials, etc...
Archive and Organise your research as you go.
Share and connect
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

40. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Reflections!
Building a Support Network
Identify your peers and support each other
Through TFRC we do presentations via skype, PhD seminars and events.
But identify and connect with peers beyond your institution/ research centre
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

41. E-co-textile design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture?
Reflections!
Passion & Conviction
You need to be the driving force behind your PhD
Your energy and enthusiasm really drives you forward
Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Design PhD Conference July 2011

42. E-co-textiles: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital
consumer culture?
Design PhD Conference 2011
Friday 1st July 2011!
Jen Ballie PhD Student
Chelsea College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, London
Email: hello@jenballie.com
www.jenballie.com