The Codex of Business Writing Software for Real-World Solutions 2.pptx
Coating book
1. d
n
m
o
k
14
e
i
b
o
DENIMIST
2011
DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE
DB
DENIM BOOK
D E N I M I S T
2. DB
DENIM B O O K
DENIMIST
T U R K E Y
Since
decades
Denimist
has
developed
know-‐how
in
denim
finishing
prior
to
garment
manufacturing
and
also
in
jeans
washing.
Our
customers
derive
benefit
from
this
experience.For
the
fabric
production
we
offer
finishing
chemicals
which
provide
the
demanded
fabric
properties
such
as
good
sewability,
stiffness,elasticity
and
handle.
The
other
field
of
our
activity
is
the
recommendation
of
laundring
Procedures
for
ready-‐made
clothing
such
as
trousers,
jackets
or
skirts,
shirts.
In
doing
so
we
have
learned
that
many
errors
may
occur
in
this
complicated
production
process.
The
laundry,
the
last
step
in
the
sequence
of
producers,
is
faced
to
difficulties
which
are
caused
by
previous
inaccuracies.
Therefore,
a
good
cooperation
among
the
steps
of
jeans
manufacturing
is
required
to
avoid
problems.
Fabric
producer,
garment
manufacturer
and
laundries
have
to
work
together
to
obtain
the
desired
end
result.
By
means
of
our
contacts
on
both
sides
of
the
production
process
we
are
able
to
make
our
contribution.
The
technical
stuff
of
Denimist
is
always
ready
to
help
our
customers
with
eventual
problems
and
to
modify
production
procedures
according
to
the
respective
requirements.
Through
our
numerous
contacts
which
we
have
got
with
denim
producers,
garment
manufacturers
and
laundries
during
the
years
we
support
the
team
work
among
all
sections
of
the
jeans
chain
and
make
our
know-‐how
available
to
all
of
the
parties
concerned
3. DB
DENIM B O O K
Agenda
Introduction
Overview
of
coating
systems
Coating
products
Applications
Applications
of
Denimist
products
Examples
4. DB
DENIM B O O K
Definition
Coating
means
:
one-‐sided,
plane
application
of
textile
auxiliaries
Limits:
• Textile
printing
• Nip-‐padding
• Spray-‐application
• Lamination
5. DB
DENIM B O O K
• Special
machines
necessary
for
coating
• Modular
systems
are
most
common
• Coating
station
• Different
knife
systems
• We
coat:
• Pastes
with
high
viscosity
• Foams
• Hot
melts
• After
coating
we
need
a
stenter
or
dryer
• Drying
and
condensation,
in
the
majority
of
cases
in
one
step
• Crush-‐cylinder
and
calander
are
useful
additional
machinery
• Printing
screens
can
be
used
to
apply
coating
pastes
and
foam
9. DB
DENIM B O O K
• Air
knife
• Coating
is
affected
by:
• Rigidity/Elasticity
(of
fabric)
• Absorbency
of
the
fabric
• Surface
condition
(roughness)
• Viscosity
of
the
paste
• Solid
content
of
the
paste
• Knife
profile
10. DB
DENIM B O O K
Roller
knife
• Often
used
with
a
gap
(between
fabric
and
knife)
• Add-‐on’s
from
50
g/m²
to
6,000
g/m²
(wet)
possible
• Very
high
viscosities
can
be
handled
3,000
mPas
to
120,000
mPas
possible
• Very
slick
fabrics
are
coatable
• Commonly
used
for
application
of
stable
foams
11. DB
DENIM B O O K
Sharp
profiles
• Low
penetration
in
the
fabric
• Less
dry-‐add-‐on
• Soft
handle
• Strong
inter-‐dependence
with
the
surface
of
the
fabric
Round
profiles
• Good
adhesion
• Higher
stiffness
• More
dry-‐add-‐on
1
mm
3
mm
6
mm
sharp
round
shoe
12. DB
DENIM B O O K
Coating
systems
(application)
Paste
coating
Pastes
• Add
thickener
to
adjust
viscosity
from
6,000
mPas
to
20,000
mPas
• Good
mixer
is
essential
• Defoaming
not
only
for
preparation
but
also
for
running
on
the
fabric
Paste
coating
• Closed
surface
after
coating
• Compaction
of
the
fabric
• Bad
permeability
to
air
• Good
water-‐proof
performance
Glossy
surface
No
foam
or
particles
13. DB
DENIM B O O K
Coating
systems
(application)
Foam
coating
• Air
for
dilution
• Less
energy
costs
(less
water
to
vaporize)
• Soft
handle
stitches
are
not
bonded
together
• Breathability
with
normal
(
cheaper)
polymers
Foam
mixer
(industry)
14. DB
DENIM B O O K
Coating
systems
(application)
Instable
foam
Instable
foam
does
not
destruct
under
normal
conditions
Instable
means
• Foam
destructs
in
heat
• Foam
destructs
under
the
knife
• Preserves
the
porosity
of
the
fabric
• No
closed
film
• In
use
for:
• Sealing
of
the
surface
• Wash-‐out
effects
• Double-‐side
coloration
Instable
foam
Coated/porous
Air
knife
15. DB
DENIM B O O K
Coating
systems
(application)
Stable
Foam
• After
drying
it‘s
still
a
foam
• Foam
stabilizers
necessary
• Application
with
roller
knife
and
gap
• Drying
at
max.
100
°C
• Instantly
grout
after
drying
• Don’t
roll
it
up
without
grouting!
• Condensation,
embossing
and
calandering
in
second
step
• Calandering
increases
the
adhesion
Stable
foam
Gap
0.2
to
2
mm
Coated
Roller
knife