2. How the course is structured
* Six chapters
* Test at the end of each chapter
* Once you have successfully submitted a chapter
test, you will be sent a link to the next chapter.
* When you have successfully completed all six
chapters you will receive a certificate for your 4 CEUs.
Demystifying Skin Care
2
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3. ∗ Our Industry
∗ Values
∗ Focus
∗ People (Work-life
balance)
∗ Environment
∗ Awareness
∗ More Product
Options
Changing World
Changing Market
4. Beauty & Wellness
Industry is Changing
Our industries are
challenging each
other to claim
‘rights’ to modalities
in health, wellness
and beauty
Crossovers……
6. ∗ New opportunities
for business growth
by expanding your
knowledge
∗ Your value can be
greater as a healing
professional with
awareness of greater
health choices!
Your Shifting Business
6
7. ∗ I. Understanding Skin, The Body’s Largest Organ
∗ II. Skin Concerns & Conditions – Body
∗ III. Skin Concerns & Conditions – Face
∗ IV. Skin’s needs for health & maintenance
Skin types, 6 step homecare program
∗ V. Natural vs. synthetic vs. organic
∗ VI. Examining the ingredient ‘myths’ and ‘realities’
The good, bad & ugly of ingredients
∗ VII. General References
Demystifying Skin Care
7
8. 8
∗ THE STRUCTURE OF SKIN & HOW IT WORKS
∗ CAUSES OF AGING
P I. Understanding Skin
9. The Structure of Your
Skin
9
The epidermis layer where the natural process
of exfoliation occurs. This is the protective layer for
the body.
The dermis layer is the “living skin”. This layer is
contains the collagen and elastin that gives our skin
it’s plumpness and elasticity.
The muscular structure gives your face
the fullness and shape as it wraps
around the skeletal structure.
10. Structure of your Skin
Epidermis
tratum Corneum – the outer most layer of the
epidermis
eratinocytes - the bulk of the cells within the
epidermis
eratin – Protective protein that forms the chemical
basis of epidermal tissues
elanocytes - An epidermal cell that produces
melanin, a black to brown skin pigment
elanin - The primary purpose of melanin is to
absorb UV rays.
angerhans Cells - specialized cells of the immune
11. Epidermal Skin Cells
Life Cycle
11
nspecialized stem cells in the deepest part of the epidermis
divide by mitosis. They start to migrate upward toward the
skin’s surface.
long the way they manufacture a tough, resilient protein
called keratin.
s the cells migrate upward, they gradually flatten.
nce they are too distant from any blood supply they die.
hey remain bonded together by a waterproof adhesive until
they are lost as some of the millions of skin flakes that fall
from our bodies daily.
INTERESTING FACT:
Humans shed and re-grow
outer skin cells approximately
every 27 days.
12. Structure of Skin
Dermis
ollagen - the main structural protein of the all connective
tissues
lastin - is a protein in connective tissue that is elastic
ibroblast - a cell that produces and secretes collagen
ebaceous Glands - secrete an oily/waxy matter, called
sebum, to lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair
ebum - a fatty substance made by the sebaceous glands
that help move toxins through the dermis and out to the
epidermis, where they can be shed.
apillaries - the body’s smallest type of blood vessels,
13. kin Cell Turnover Rate. Is higher in facial skin. Dryness
and decreased environmental exposure result in a slower
skin cell turnover rate in body skin. The result is less
natural exfoliation resulting in often thicker, scalier skin.
ebaceousness (Oiliness). Body skin is less oily than facial
skin because it has far fewer sebaceous glands. Dryness
may be more problematic.
kin thickness. The facial epidermis is about 0.10mm thick,
while body skin is thicker, around 0.60 mm. This
environment can lead to a build up of dead skin cells.
Differences between
Face and Body Skin
15. Causes of Aging
15
XTRINSIC AGING
nvironmental
∗ Sun,
∗ Wind
∗ Harsh, cold climate
∗ Ingestion (food, alcohol,
drugs)
∗ Gravity, etc
NTRINSIC AGING
eredity
∗ see Fitzpatrick Scale –
the fairer your skin the
quicker you age!
∗ Loss of collagen & elastin
∗ Loss of facial fat
∗ Dry skin
16. Heredity – “Natural” Aging
16
∗ Loss of collagen and elastin
∗ Structural attachment
between the dermis and
epidermis weakens
∗ Skin sags and thins
∗ Skin renewal process slows
17. New Theories in
Science on Aging
The Wear and Tear Theory
Body and cells decline with use and abuse from stress, overuse, diet, toxins, bacteria,
etc.
The Free Radical Theory
Just by breathing and breaking down food, our body
creates free radicals, or molecules with unpaired electrons.
These unstable molecules make their way through the body,
scavenging our cells, trying to snatch up that missing part.
17
18. New Theories in
Science on Aging
The Telomerase Theory of Aging
Findings that Telomeres, which are sequences of nucleic acids extending from the ends
of chromosomes become shortened, frayed and contribute to degeneration of cells.
The Mitochondrial Decline Theory of Aging
The Mitochondria (organelles) found in every cell creates
ATP which the body uses for fuel. It becomes less efficient,
fewer in number and ATP(Adenosine Triphosphate)
production declines.
18
19. New Theories in
Science on Aging
The DNA & Genetic Theory
Accumulation of unrepaired DNA damage.
The Acidification Theory
Acid Waste Buildup in system which can be
flushed out by an alkaline food and water.
19
22. II. Skin Concerns &
Conditions - BODY
KIN CONDITIONS
∗ Melanoma (Cancer)
∗ Squamous Cell Carcinoma
∗ Actinic Keratosis or solar
elastosis
∗ Pityraisis Rosea
∗ Systemic Lupus (butterfly rash)
∗ Solar Lentigo (liver spot)
∗ Dermatitis
∗ Solar Urticaria (Sun Hives)
ack Acne
nflammed hair follicles
aricose veins
erpes Simplex
ingworm
22
23. Pityriasis Rosea – Annular Lesions
23
Pityriasis
rosea
Cause reactivation of
herpes virus 7
herpes virus 6.
Presentation
Common during winter
affects children and young adults
second attacks are rare
At first herald or
‘mother’ plaque
larger than later lesions
Rounder
Redder
more scaly
After several days
smaller plaques appear
On trunk mainly
also on neck and extremities
plaques
are oval
salmon pink
delicate
scaling
adherent peripherally
collarette scales
configuration
Christmas tree
axes run down and
out from the spine
along the lines
of the ribs
Differential diagnosis
tinea corporis
pityriasis versicolor
guttate psoriasis
secondary syphilis
drug eruption
gold
captopril
Treatment
No Cure
For itching
topical steroid
calamine lotion
Sunlight
UVB
ointment reduces scaling
Course
herald plaque precedes the generalized eruption
Subsequent lesions enlarge
systemic symptoms such as aching and tiredness
eruption lasts 2–10 weeks
resolves spontaneously
leaving hyperpigmented patches
3/12/2011 - Maen K. Abu Househ | Reviewed by Reem Al-qudah - Pityriasis rosea
25. Skin Cancer
now the warning
signs for skin cancer
e ready to refer to dermatologist
ore information at
www.skincancer.org
“ABCs” to watch for:
∗ A - Asymmetry - not symmetrically
round if you draw a line through it
∗ B - Border is irregular
∗ C - Color varies, even within the
lesion; may be brown, tan, black,
red, white
∗ D - Diameter is usually larger than
6 mm, or a pencil eraser
25
27. Skin Conditions
Refer to chart a,b,c in
back of booklet to
discuss contagious skin
conditions
then BREAK
28. ine Lines & Wrinkles
cne/Blemishes/Rosacea
yperpigmentation
ark or Puffy Eyes
28
III. Skin Concerns - FACE
29. Fine Lines and Wrinkles
pidermal cells become thinner and less
sticky
ecreases in moisture causes dryness.
ollagen production decreases and elastin
fibers gradually begin to wear out.
at cells get smaller and no longer provide
even support beneath the tissue.
uscles loose their tone.
hanges is hormones contribute to
decreased estrogen production. This
causes a 2% decrease in collagen per year.
abitual facial expressions (ex grimacing)
29
30. Hyperpigmentation
ommon, mostly harmless,
condition causing areas of skin to
become darker than surrounding
tissue.
ometimes referred to as “brown”
or“age” or “liver spots”
aused by over-exposure to the sun
and UV rays
evelops on areas frequently
exposed to the sun.
elasma are similar in appearance
31. Dark or Puffy Eyes
ommon causes for Dark Eyes
include:
∗ Allergies, Eczema
∗ Hereditary
∗ Lifestyle factors; physical,
emotional stress,
smoking, chronic alcohol
consumption
∗ Liver Congestion
∗ Pigmentation
Irregularities
∗ Rubbing the eyes
∗ Sun exposure (over
production of melanin)
Puffy Eyes
(Fluid Retention or Fat Deposits)
Common Causes for “bags” include
Stress
Allergies
Hormone Changes/Crying
Sleeping or Lack of Sleep
Salty Foods
32. Redundant Skin
∗ This commonly develops as we age,
partially because of the effects of gravity on
the skin.
∗ Other causes:
∗ Collagen Elastin Loss (thinning skin)
∗ Decrease in Hyaluronic Acid (holds
skins outer cells together)
∗ Decreased Cell Production
∗ Lack of Nutrients (such as Vitamin C)
∗ Obesity and Weight Loss
∗ UV Damage
∗ Facial Muscle Tone
∗ Surgery is the most common treatment
∗ Neck exercises involving the tongue can
help tighten the skin naturally and tighten
loose skin but with minimal results
32
33. Couperous “Broken Capillaries”
ouperous skin(also called
Telangectasias)can be
caused by environmental
elements (cold, wind,
alcohol and tobacco use) as
well as thinning skin and
Rosacea
33
34. Acne & Blemishes
cne occurs when the oil glands of
the skin become plugged.
t is more common in people with oily
skin.
cne occurs in adolescents and young
adults.
n acne there are blackheads (the
plugs found in blocked-off oil
glands), whiteheads (pimples), or
red bumps on the face, neck, and
shoulders.
34
35. IV. Skin’s needs for health
and maintenance
Repairing skin is a combination of factors:
∗Feeding the skin with NUTRITION
through
∗ INGESTION (supplements, food and
water!)
∗ TOPICALLY (treatments and
homecare products and massage)
∗Exposure to the for at least 15
minutes a day for Vitamin D
∗Creating CIRCULATION via massage or
exercise
35
ALSO TIME
AND
COMMITMENT
!
36. Healthy Skin - Diet
he food we eat has a major impact on
the look and appearance of our skin
itamins and minerals will help to keep
your skin looking smoother
and younger
eneficial ingredients include
Selenium
Omega 3’ fatty acids
B vitamins 36
37. Healthy Skin - Exercise
xercise is not only good for your heart
and muscles, it is great for keeping your
skin looking younger, longer
∗ Increased circulation helps to clear toxins
from the body and increase the delivery of
essential nutrients to the skin cells
∗ Provides optimal conditions for collagen
production which will help reduce the
formation of wrinkles
∗ Can reduce the pockets of cellulite of
“cottage cheese” that develop on fatty
areas of the body such as the thighs and
butt
∗ Exercises such as yoga can help increase
blood flow to the face (supplying the skin
with more nutrients) and provide a“facelift”
benefit from backwards poses by exercising
the facial muscles 37
38. Healthy Skin - Treatments
eceiving a Facial Treatment
such as a deep pore
cleaning, occasional deep
exfoliation or Bellanina
Facelift Massage keeps the
skin stimulated and
healthy!
38
40. Healthy Skin - Homecare
CIRCULATION &
ENERGY FLOW
∗Massaging your face in an
upward fashion each day
when you wash your face
keeps it healthy!
∗Pressing acupressure points
stimulate energy flow and
tissue cleansing.
40
41. Determining Skin Type
Symptom Y N
Dull Color
Acne
Shiny or
Greasy
Enlarged
pores
Symptom Y N
Blotchy
Flushed
Broken Veins
Reactive to
Symptom Y N
Flaking
Fine Lines
Dehydrated
Itching
Symptom Y N
Smooth
Even tone
Small pores
Little to no
blemishes
41
Normal Dry Oily/Blemished Sensitive Combination
OilySensitive
DryNorma
l
42. Skin Types
42
DRY skin is often a
temporary problem but can
be irritating.
Re-hydrating the skin is
important to resolve this
condition.
SENSITIVE skin is highly
reactive to certain products.
This causes irritation and
redness.
OILY skin can be caused
by several factors.
Frequent acne and
enlarged pores are
common occurrences.
NORMAL skin will have
occasional dryness or
blemishes but is usually
smooth, clear and hydrated.
Combination
Most people have a
combination skin type that will
be a mixture of two or more
common types.
For example, a person with
“combination” skin may have dry
hands but oily face problems.
INTERESTING FACT:
The skin is the largest organ in
the body and accounts for
12-15% of total body weight.
43. Creating Your 6 Step Skin Care Plan
1: Cleanse
Remove dirt &
cellular debris
2 X Daily
2: Exfoliate
Remove dead
skin cells
2 X Weekly
3: Tone
Balance pH and
remove hard
minerals from
water
2 X Daily
4: Correct
Repair,
replenish and
promote anti-
aging
2 X Daily
5: Moisturize
Hydrate
2 X Daily
6: Protect
From sunburn
and free
radical
damage
Every 3 hours
when in sun
43
44. rganic – Refers to how a plant is grown.
atural – A product derived from a plant (botanical)
combined with naturally occuring carrier agents,
preservatives, surfactants, humectants, and emulsifiers.
ynthetic – Science of creating, in a lab, which molecularly
match those from nature in every way, i.e. nature-identical.
V. Natural vs. Synthetic vs. Organic
Ingredients & Products
44
45. ∗ Hypoallergenic and natural can mean anything and nothing, really –
market words
∗ The FDA has no authority to require companies to test cosmetics for
safety
∗ People are affected by ingredients by breathing in sprays and powders,
swallowing chemicals via lips and hands, or absorbing them through
the skin
∗ The average woman uses 12 personal care products daily; men use 6,
exposing themselves (women) to more than 80 unique ingredients (teens
more)
∗ The only ‘safe’ sunscreen ingredients are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
(maybe)
NOT A FACT: Americans are getting dumber; Average IQ below average
intelligence, thought to be caused by toxic affects to brain chemistry!
V. Product Ingredients Facts
46. Healthy Sunscreens….Oxymoron?
s the saying goes……
The sun is dangerous
Stay out of the sun
The sun is the primary
cause of skin cancer
Sunscreen will protect
Possible truths:
Sunscreens can be toxic to skin
Sunscreens can cause skin cancer
Nearly all conventional sunscreen
products contain toxic and cancer
causing chemicals
Sunscreen blocks over 70% vitamin D
production which your skin needs
Sunscreens are valuable under
certain conditions (10/4 rule)
Natural ingredients (botanicals) can
help to block the damaging rays
46
49. Cosmetic Safety
n 30 year history, the FDA industry panel has declared only
11 ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe in America
he European Union has banned more than 1,000
ingredients from use in cosmetics that the FDA allows
49
Today, we are going to learn all about skin; how it functions, concerns about conditions or disease and concerns about conditions that would take away its’ inherent beauty.
Also, we will review the skin’s needs for health maintenance and the 6 step skin care system.
Natural vs. Synthetic vs. Organic and how they are defined and last, we will learn more about product ingredients, the good, bad and ugly!
Our industry continues to grow. Except for the 2008 – 2010 dip, it’s growth continues to accelerate. But it is becoming ‘different. We’ll talk about those differences.
What used to be strictly a hair & nail salon and a Massage Parlour transitioned to Hair Salon and Spa with massage, skin care, and nails, then massage moved over to work with skin and then massage moved in to work with chiropractors and skin care specialists moved in to working with doctors then skin care specialists started doing acupressure and then massage therapists started doing lymph drainage and fitness and yoga, and on and on. The licensing bureaus are still trying to figure out who does what and when the dust is all settled we all may be dual licensed if we work in spas because spa owners must utilize labour to its’ optimum in order to keep its’ doors open.
Today, Massage Therapist and Estheticians both do all these treatments in your typical spa, but are only licensed to do some of them based on their state license. But again, spa owners can’t afford to segregate these services and cut it’s chances on serving its’ customers.
With that said, as a massage therapist, the more you can learn about skin and go beyond your focus of muscles, the broader your career and the farther you can go in your profession. Knowledge is power!
Today, we are going to learn all about skin; how it functions, concerns about conditions or disease and concerns about conditions that would take away its’ inherent beauty.
Also, we will review the skin’s needs for health maintenance and the 6 step skin care system.
Natural vs. Synthetic vs. Organic and how they are defined and last, we will learn more about product ingredients, the good, bad and ugly!
In the Bellanina Facelift Massage class, our focus has been to just understand enough about the epidermis and dermis but we really never got into the more finite aspects of skin and skin cells, vessels, and tissue. COMPLEX structure.
In the Bellanina Facelift Massage class, our focus has been to just understand enough about the epidermis and dermis but we really never got into the more finite aspects of skin and skin cells, vessels, and tissue. COMPLEX structure.
In the Bellanina Facelift Massage class, our focus has been to just understand enough about the epidermis and dermis but we really never got into the more finite aspects of skin and skin cells, vessels, and tissue. COMPLEX structure.
Now that we have reviewed the structure, let’s look at the aging process. Accepted wisdom has told us that aging happens either by the environment or through our genes. However, there are many theories on aging.
There are so many skin conditions plaguing the human experience. Some are easily identified but there are many that baffle doctors and these doctors have to do elaborate tests to determine what it is or even what caused it.
Tell the story of my hives incident. Body covered in hives. Dermatologist thought it was scabies but had to do a biopsy. Treated it with pyrithrum. Hard to diagnose just by visual sight.
If your skinis red, itchy, inflamed, or painful? These symptoms can indicate a host of skin conditions, including rosacea, eczema, contact dermatitis, psoraisis, ringworm, eczema, impetigo, pityriasis rosea
Lupus Solar Lentigo Pityrasis Rosea Keratoses Pilaris(chicken skin) Cellulite Ringworm (Tinea Corpis) Poison Ivy Herpes
Lupus – Auto Immune (butterfly rash)
Solar Lentigo – age or liver spots, benign
Pityrasis Rosea -Although the etiology of pityriasis rosea is unclear, several factors indicate an infectious cause. First, outbreaks of the condition occur in clusters, suggesting that an infectious agent is circulating within a community.4 Second, recurrence of pityriasis rosea outside the acute phase is rare, suggesting that there is long-lasting immunity after the infection. Third, up to 69 percent of patients with pityriasis rosea have a prodromal illness before the herald patch appears.5 Finally, some patients with pityriasis rosea show an increase in B lymphocytes, a decrease in T lymphocytes, and an elevated sedimentation rate.6
Keratoses Pilaris - is a common skin condition in which a protein in the skin called keratin forms hard plugs within hair follicles. (Chicken skin) backs of arms
Ringworm – fungus like athelete’s feet
SKIP TO THE BACK CHART ABOUT WHAT IS CONTAGIOUS!
Actinic Keratoses
Basal Cell Carcinoma
Granuloma Annulare - is a fairly rare, chronic dermatological autoimmune condition which presents as reddish bumps on the skin arranged in a circle or ring.
Malignant Melanoma
As we age Telomeres shorten. The genes and chromosones become frayed
Aplle Stem Cell
Multi chain peptides are cellular messengers
TAKE A BREAK BEFORE GOING INTO SECTION 5
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