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From Ingredients to Beer: From
    Design to Realisation
          Stuart Howe
Contents
•   Background: Brewing is complicated
•   Background: Flavour is complicated
•   Beer design: How the big boys do it
•   Beer design: Smaller brewery method
•   Summary
•   Questions, arguments and fighting in the car park
Brewing is easy peasy
•   Beer is 4 basic raw materials
•   Cooked together in a simple process
•   Beer tastes of malt, hops and fruit
•   Flavour is controlled through recipe changes
•   It’s all down to selecting the right varieties
•   None of this is accurate!
••                                                   • Adjunct cooking • Cell mass
     Adjunct purity temperature•• •Adjunct cooking temperature• temperature
 •   Adjunct cooking temperature Adjunct cooking temperature •Adjunct cooking temperature
      Liquor cooking                • Wort DO2cooking temperature Adjunct cooking temperature
                                           Adjunct
••                                                   •
                                    •• •Adjunct level Adjunct level • •Adjunct level state of yeast
                                                                               Metabolic
 •   Adjunct salt profile
     Adjunct level
      Cell mass increase
      Liquor level                  • Adjunct level regime
                                         Wort heating
                                           Adjunct level                   • Adjunct level
••
 •   Mash pH 2
      Wort DO
     Mash pH                        •• •Mash pHpH• Mash pH
                                         Wort pH
                                    • Mash pH
                                           Mash                         • •Mash pHpH
                                                                               Fermentation temperature
                                                                           • Mash
 •    Liquor temperature                             • Run
••
 •   Run offFAN
     Run off profile
      Wort profile                  •• •Run offoff profile off profile • •Degreeoff filtration
                                    • Run off profile
                                         Wort viscosity
                                           Run profile
                                                                               Fermenter shape
                                                                           •Run off of profile
                                                                               Run profile
••
 •
 •   Lautering rateacid oxygen
      Liquor dissolved
      Wort amino
     Lautering rate      profile                     •
                                    •• •Lautering rateLautering rate • •Temperaturerate pressure
                                    • Lautering rate wort
                                         Final gravityrate
                                           Lautering of
                                                                               Fermenter top
                                                                           •Lautering rate
                                                                               Lautering drop
••
 •
 •    Liquorrake spectrum
      Wort pH
     Lauter sugarangle
     Lauter rake angle                   Wort rake•angle
                                    •• •Lauter silicate level rake angle•Temperature of maturation
                                    • Lauter rake angle
                                                         Lauter
                                           Lauter rake angle
                                                                               Fermenter depth
                                                                        • •Lauter rake angle
                                                                               Lauter rake angle
••                                                   • Sparge
                                    •• •Spargepolyphenol level          • •Concentration of dry characteris
                                         Wort temperature temperature Sparge temperature
                                                                               Yeast flocculation
 •   Sparge temperature
      Barley variety
      Zinc level
     Sparge temperature             • Sparge temperature
                                           Sparge temperature              •Sparge temperature hops
••
 •   Spargemodification
     Sparge rate
      Vitamin level
      Malt rate                     •• •SpargeFAN • Sparge rate • •Sparge rate hops
                                    • Sparge rate
                                         Wort rate
                                           Sparge rate
                                                                               Yeast head potential
                                                                           •Type of dry
                                                                               Sparge rate
••
 •   Bed height
      Wort colour
             pH drop
     Bed height                     •• •Bed height • Bed height level •Varietyheight hops
                                         Wort Maillard precursor
                                    • Bed height
                                           Bed height                   • •Bed height concentration
                                                                               Yeast cell
                                                                               Bed of dry
 •    Malt
••
 •   Collection rate level
      Wort carbonate
     Collection rate                     Wort beta•glucan level rate • •Maturation yeast
                                    •• •Collection rate
                                    • Collection rate
                                                         Collection
                                           Collection rate
                                                                               Yeast growth rate
                                                                           •Collection rate
                                                                               Collection rate
••
 •
 •
      Grist composition
     Hop type fermentation
      Vigour of
     Hop type                            Type of •
                                    •• •Hop typekettleHop type
                                    • Hop type
                                           Hop type                     • •Diacetyl rest
                                                                               Fermentation temperature p
                                                                           •Hop type
                                                                               Hop type
••
 •    Special malt                                   •
     Hop variety modification •• •Hop variety Hop variety • •Free variety      Attemperation rate
 •    Rousing
     Hop variety                    • Hop variety heater
                                         Type of wort
                                           Hop variety                     •Hop rise
                                                                               Hop variety
••
 •   Hop addition timings
     Hop addition roast
      Special malt timings
      Yeast viability                    Delta T on•heatingaddition timingsHop addition timings
                                                         Hop surface • •Hop addition timings
                                    •• •Hop addition timings
                                    • Hop addition timings
                                           Hop addition timings
                                                                               Fermenter cleanliness
                                                                           •Antioxidant use
••                                                   • pH at
                                         Worthop additions hop          • •Yeast hop additions
                                    •• •pHpH at hop additions additions pH concentration strains used
                                                                               Number of yeast
 •   pH at hop additions
      temperature
      Yeast variety
     pH at hop additions            • pH at hop additions
                                            at velocity                    •pH at at hop additions
••                                                   •                  • •Maturation vessel size
     Cation vitality roast moisture •• •Cation level inCation level in wort Cation level wort
                                                                               Presence of bacteria
 •   Cation level in wort
      Yeast level in wort
      Special malt                         Cation level wort
                                    • Cation level in of heater
                                         Temperature in wort
                                                          wort             •Cation level in in wort
••
 •   Shape of kettle
     Shape autolysis
      Yeast of kettle
      level                         •• •Shape of of•kettleof heater • •Maturation vessel pressure
                                    • Shape of kettle
                                         Steam pressure
                                           Shape kettle
                                                         Shape of kettle Shape of kettle wild yeast
                                                                               Presence of
                                                                           • Shape of kettle
••                                                   • Degree
     Degreestorage temperature •• •Degree of of reflux of reflux •Maturation of fermeter constru
                                                                               Material vessle
                                                                        • •Degree of of refluxmaterial
 •
 •   Degree of reflux time
      Yeast of reflux
      Special malt roast            • Degree of reflux
                                         Evaporation rate
                                           Degree reflux                       Degree reflux
••                                                   •
                                         Boil vigour Boil temperature•profile treatment profile
                                    •• •Boil temperature profile            Wood temperature constructio
                                                                               Material of kettle
 •   Boil temperature profile
      Yeast storage time
     Boil temperature profile              Boil temperature profile • •Boil temperature profile
                                    • Boil temperature profile                 Boil
••
 •
 •   Type ofstorage DO2 system •• •Typedrop in• kettle of system • •Maturation addititvessystem
      Grist size profile                                 Type trub removalConcentration of fatty acids
                                         pH of trub removal system              system
     Type of trub removal system • Type of of trub removal system •Type of of trub removal system
      Yeast trub removal                   Type trub removal                   Type trub removal
••
 •
 •    Gristlevels of time
      CO moisture level
     Hop residence time                  hot break • time
     Hop2residenceyeast storage •• •Hop residenceHop residence • •Maturation additive polyphenol
                                                                        time Concentration of
                                    • Hop residence time in kettle •Hop residence time concentrat
                                                     formation
                                           Hop residence time                  Hop residence time
••                                                   • Transfer from • •Transfer time and of size
                                    •• •Transfer time and rate time and•Maturationtime and silicates
     Transfer timetemperature • Transfer time and rate from                 rate from additive from
                                                                               Concentration rate
 •   Transfer time and yeastfrom
      Conversion and rate from
      Ethanol levels in rate storage Wort colour and rate from
                                           Transfer time                       Transfer           rate from
     kettle on mash yeast            • kettlepH drop
                                         Boil            kettle           •Filtration delta P
                                                                               Use of amylolytic enzymes
                                                                        • kettle
 •   kettle stress on
      Shear                             kettle
                                           kettle                              kettle
••                                                   • 2+Design of calandria Use of proteolytic enzymes
     Design of calandria of wort •• •Designof Mgcalandria                 •Design of calandria
                                                                        • •Stabilisation calandria
 •
 •    Osmotic potential
     Design viscosity
      Mash of calandria             • Design of of in wort
                                         Level of calandria
                                           Design calandria                    Design of regime
•                                                    •2+ in wort of calandria rate of calandria
                                                         Flow rate
                                    •• •Flow rateCa of calandria
                                         Level of of conversion • •Stabilisation of calandria
 •   Oil leve lof hops
     Recirc through hops            • Degree rate calandria
                                           Flow of malt                     Flow rate time
                                                                               Flow
Flavour is Complicated
• Flavour = aroma + taste
• Taste not just bitter, sweet, salt, umami, and
  sour, these are just like the primary colours
• Taste is sensed by taste buds or gustatory
  calyculi on tongue, roof of mouth, inside of
  cheeks and throat
• Tastes can be hedonically enhancing or
  suppressive
Boring’s load of old bollocks
Aroma
• Involves only volatile compounds
• Is sensed by receptors olfactory mucosa
• No “primary colours” of aroma – much more
  complex than taste
• Aromas can be
  additive, antagonistic, synergistic, hedonically
  enhancing or suppressive
• How an aroma is perceived also depends on its
  concentration (diacetyl)
• Aroma can influence taste and taste can influence
  aroma (ethyl-maltol)
Olfactory mucosa
and nerve
Where it gets complicated
• Receptors in your olfactory mucosa and gustatory
  calyculi are stimulated by chemicals in the beer
• They send an electronic message to the brain for
  processing
• The brain gives you an appraisal of what it might be
• Every step in this process is subject to genetic variation
  and inaccuracy
• Beer flavour is conferred by 1000s of chemicals all
  interacting
• Despite the 1000s of aroma compounds evolution is
  quite conservative (α-pinene)
Beer Design Stages
       Concept

      Definition

     Specification

        Recipe

      Pilot brew

    Full scale brew

       Market
Big Boys’ Design
1.   Market research
2.   Focus group
3.   Fuzzy front end
4.   Attribute specification
5.   Pilots
6.   Focus groups
7.   Full scale brew
Labatt Ice
• 1992 in shrinking market
  innovation needed
• Idea generation developed beer
  names
• Focus groups used to select best
  and define attributes
• “Ice Brewing Technology™”
  developed to attain attributes
• Beer launched an became
  world’s biggest selling Ice beer
  and gained 10% market share in
  Canada
Smaller Brewery Process
“We come up with ideas for new beers after a few jars in
Cask, Pimlico”
• The brew is often the first step in the process
• Concept developed by brewer
• Focus group of one or two
• Pilot brew may be sold
• Whether it is brewed again depends on sales
• Brewer’s palate and understanding of the
  market’s palate needs to be excellent
• Product is personal to brewer
Chalky’s Bite
• Rick likes Sharp’s beers
• Rick wanted to market a beer (£Kerching!)
• Rick’s team asks Stuart to brew a beer with
  wild fennel
• Stuart re-educates Rick’s team
• Pilot beers produced
• Definitive pilot selected
• Commercial scale beer brewed
Fennel
• Shares many essential oil components with hops
  such linalol and terpenes
• Has non-sugar sweetness from estragole
• Has mint like character from fenchone
• Aniseed aroma from anisole, another hop
  component
• Dried fruit have very high concentrations of these
  compounds
• Every variety and type of fennel has a different
  essential oil composition
Designing the beer around fennel
• Selection of right base beer
• Consistent supply of fennel
• Controlling the dominance of fennel notes
• Timing the point of addition
• Beer sculpted from original beer through
  iterative brews with small changes
• Compromise on taste between design team
From pilot brew to full regular brand

 •   Upscale calculations
 •   Split brews
 •   Specify, specify, specify
 •   Change to maintain
Summary
• Brewing and flavour are highly complex and
  interesting
• The process of beer design shows as much variation
  as breweries themselves
• Novel ingredients constitute a unique challenge to
  the brewer
• Flavour is sculpted through an iterative process
• The beauty of the sculpture is in the eye of the
  consumer

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From ingredients to beer

  • 1. From Ingredients to Beer: From Design to Realisation Stuart Howe
  • 2. Contents • Background: Brewing is complicated • Background: Flavour is complicated • Beer design: How the big boys do it • Beer design: Smaller brewery method • Summary • Questions, arguments and fighting in the car park
  • 3. Brewing is easy peasy • Beer is 4 basic raw materials • Cooked together in a simple process • Beer tastes of malt, hops and fruit • Flavour is controlled through recipe changes • It’s all down to selecting the right varieties • None of this is accurate!
  • 4. •• • Adjunct cooking • Cell mass Adjunct purity temperature•• •Adjunct cooking temperature• temperature • Adjunct cooking temperature Adjunct cooking temperature •Adjunct cooking temperature Liquor cooking • Wort DO2cooking temperature Adjunct cooking temperature Adjunct •• • •• •Adjunct level Adjunct level • •Adjunct level state of yeast Metabolic • Adjunct salt profile Adjunct level Cell mass increase Liquor level • Adjunct level regime Wort heating Adjunct level • Adjunct level •• • Mash pH 2 Wort DO Mash pH •• •Mash pHpH• Mash pH Wort pH • Mash pH Mash • •Mash pHpH Fermentation temperature • Mash • Liquor temperature • Run •• • Run offFAN Run off profile Wort profile •• •Run offoff profile off profile • •Degreeoff filtration • Run off profile Wort viscosity Run profile Fermenter shape •Run off of profile Run profile •• • • Lautering rateacid oxygen Liquor dissolved Wort amino Lautering rate profile • •• •Lautering rateLautering rate • •Temperaturerate pressure • Lautering rate wort Final gravityrate Lautering of Fermenter top •Lautering rate Lautering drop •• • • Liquorrake spectrum Wort pH Lauter sugarangle Lauter rake angle Wort rake•angle •• •Lauter silicate level rake angle•Temperature of maturation • Lauter rake angle Lauter Lauter rake angle Fermenter depth • •Lauter rake angle Lauter rake angle •• • Sparge •• •Spargepolyphenol level • •Concentration of dry characteris Wort temperature temperature Sparge temperature Yeast flocculation • Sparge temperature Barley variety Zinc level Sparge temperature • Sparge temperature Sparge temperature •Sparge temperature hops •• • Spargemodification Sparge rate Vitamin level Malt rate •• •SpargeFAN • Sparge rate • •Sparge rate hops • Sparge rate Wort rate Sparge rate Yeast head potential •Type of dry Sparge rate •• • Bed height Wort colour pH drop Bed height •• •Bed height • Bed height level •Varietyheight hops Wort Maillard precursor • Bed height Bed height • •Bed height concentration Yeast cell Bed of dry • Malt •• • Collection rate level Wort carbonate Collection rate Wort beta•glucan level rate • •Maturation yeast •• •Collection rate • Collection rate Collection Collection rate Yeast growth rate •Collection rate Collection rate •• • • Grist composition Hop type fermentation Vigour of Hop type Type of • •• •Hop typekettleHop type • Hop type Hop type • •Diacetyl rest Fermentation temperature p •Hop type Hop type •• • Special malt • Hop variety modification •• •Hop variety Hop variety • •Free variety Attemperation rate • Rousing Hop variety • Hop variety heater Type of wort Hop variety •Hop rise Hop variety •• • Hop addition timings Hop addition roast Special malt timings Yeast viability Delta T on•heatingaddition timingsHop addition timings Hop surface • •Hop addition timings •• •Hop addition timings • Hop addition timings Hop addition timings Fermenter cleanliness •Antioxidant use •• • pH at Worthop additions hop • •Yeast hop additions •• •pHpH at hop additions additions pH concentration strains used Number of yeast • pH at hop additions temperature Yeast variety pH at hop additions • pH at hop additions at velocity •pH at at hop additions •• • • •Maturation vessel size Cation vitality roast moisture •• •Cation level inCation level in wort Cation level wort Presence of bacteria • Cation level in wort Yeast level in wort Special malt Cation level wort • Cation level in of heater Temperature in wort wort •Cation level in in wort •• • Shape of kettle Shape autolysis Yeast of kettle level •• •Shape of of•kettleof heater • •Maturation vessel pressure • Shape of kettle Steam pressure Shape kettle Shape of kettle Shape of kettle wild yeast Presence of • Shape of kettle •• • Degree Degreestorage temperature •• •Degree of of reflux of reflux •Maturation of fermeter constru Material vessle • •Degree of of refluxmaterial • • Degree of reflux time Yeast of reflux Special malt roast • Degree of reflux Evaporation rate Degree reflux Degree reflux •• • Boil vigour Boil temperature•profile treatment profile •• •Boil temperature profile Wood temperature constructio Material of kettle • Boil temperature profile Yeast storage time Boil temperature profile Boil temperature profile • •Boil temperature profile • Boil temperature profile Boil •• • • Type ofstorage DO2 system •• •Typedrop in• kettle of system • •Maturation addititvessystem Grist size profile Type trub removalConcentration of fatty acids pH of trub removal system system Type of trub removal system • Type of of trub removal system •Type of of trub removal system Yeast trub removal Type trub removal Type trub removal •• • • Gristlevels of time CO moisture level Hop residence time hot break • time Hop2residenceyeast storage •• •Hop residenceHop residence • •Maturation additive polyphenol time Concentration of • Hop residence time in kettle •Hop residence time concentrat formation Hop residence time Hop residence time •• • Transfer from • •Transfer time and of size •• •Transfer time and rate time and•Maturationtime and silicates Transfer timetemperature • Transfer time and rate from rate from additive from Concentration rate • Transfer time and yeastfrom Conversion and rate from Ethanol levels in rate storage Wort colour and rate from Transfer time Transfer rate from kettle on mash yeast • kettlepH drop Boil kettle •Filtration delta P Use of amylolytic enzymes • kettle • kettle stress on Shear kettle kettle kettle •• • 2+Design of calandria Use of proteolytic enzymes Design of calandria of wort •• •Designof Mgcalandria •Design of calandria • •Stabilisation calandria • • Osmotic potential Design viscosity Mash of calandria • Design of of in wort Level of calandria Design calandria Design of regime • •2+ in wort of calandria rate of calandria Flow rate •• •Flow rateCa of calandria Level of of conversion • •Stabilisation of calandria • Oil leve lof hops Recirc through hops • Degree rate calandria Flow of malt Flow rate time Flow
  • 5. Flavour is Complicated • Flavour = aroma + taste • Taste not just bitter, sweet, salt, umami, and sour, these are just like the primary colours • Taste is sensed by taste buds or gustatory calyculi on tongue, roof of mouth, inside of cheeks and throat • Tastes can be hedonically enhancing or suppressive
  • 6. Boring’s load of old bollocks
  • 7. Aroma • Involves only volatile compounds • Is sensed by receptors olfactory mucosa • No “primary colours” of aroma – much more complex than taste • Aromas can be additive, antagonistic, synergistic, hedonically enhancing or suppressive • How an aroma is perceived also depends on its concentration (diacetyl) • Aroma can influence taste and taste can influence aroma (ethyl-maltol)
  • 9. Where it gets complicated • Receptors in your olfactory mucosa and gustatory calyculi are stimulated by chemicals in the beer • They send an electronic message to the brain for processing • The brain gives you an appraisal of what it might be • Every step in this process is subject to genetic variation and inaccuracy • Beer flavour is conferred by 1000s of chemicals all interacting • Despite the 1000s of aroma compounds evolution is quite conservative (α-pinene)
  • 10. Beer Design Stages Concept Definition Specification Recipe Pilot brew Full scale brew Market
  • 11. Big Boys’ Design 1. Market research 2. Focus group 3. Fuzzy front end 4. Attribute specification 5. Pilots 6. Focus groups 7. Full scale brew
  • 12. Labatt Ice • 1992 in shrinking market innovation needed • Idea generation developed beer names • Focus groups used to select best and define attributes • “Ice Brewing Technology™” developed to attain attributes • Beer launched an became world’s biggest selling Ice beer and gained 10% market share in Canada
  • 13. Smaller Brewery Process “We come up with ideas for new beers after a few jars in Cask, Pimlico” • The brew is often the first step in the process • Concept developed by brewer • Focus group of one or two • Pilot brew may be sold • Whether it is brewed again depends on sales • Brewer’s palate and understanding of the market’s palate needs to be excellent • Product is personal to brewer
  • 14. Chalky’s Bite • Rick likes Sharp’s beers • Rick wanted to market a beer (£Kerching!) • Rick’s team asks Stuart to brew a beer with wild fennel • Stuart re-educates Rick’s team • Pilot beers produced • Definitive pilot selected • Commercial scale beer brewed
  • 15. Fennel • Shares many essential oil components with hops such linalol and terpenes • Has non-sugar sweetness from estragole • Has mint like character from fenchone • Aniseed aroma from anisole, another hop component • Dried fruit have very high concentrations of these compounds • Every variety and type of fennel has a different essential oil composition
  • 16. Designing the beer around fennel • Selection of right base beer • Consistent supply of fennel • Controlling the dominance of fennel notes • Timing the point of addition • Beer sculpted from original beer through iterative brews with small changes • Compromise on taste between design team
  • 17. From pilot brew to full regular brand • Upscale calculations • Split brews • Specify, specify, specify • Change to maintain
  • 18. Summary • Brewing and flavour are highly complex and interesting • The process of beer design shows as much variation as breweries themselves • Novel ingredients constitute a unique challenge to the brewer • Flavour is sculpted through an iterative process • The beauty of the sculpture is in the eye of the consumer