Fibre,yarn,fabric

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Topic : Fiber, Yarn, Fabric

Characteristics of Natural Fiber
Properties of Natural fiber
 Absorbent
 Comfortable
 Cooler to Wear
 Wrinkle more
 Shrink when washed
Important Natural fiber are
 Cotton
 Jute
 Linen
 Wool
 Silk

Cotton Fiber
 Cotton is a cellulosic plant
fiber.
 Found from bolls (seed pods)
growing on bushed.
 Organic cotton can be called
as “Environmental friendly
Cotton” or “Green Cotton”.
 Environmental Cotton can be
grown in a range of colors.
 Main textile product of
India, Pakistan, Iran and many
other countries.
 Made into a wide range of
wearing apparel.

Advantage
 Comfortable
 Absorbent
 Good color retention
 Dyes & prints well
 Washable
 Fairly strong
 Drapes well
 Easy to handle and sew
 Low cost
 Environmental friendly
Disadvantage
 Shrinks in hot water
 Wrinkles easily
 Weakened by
perspiration and sun
 Burns easily
 Affected by mildew
 Affected by chlorine
bleach.

End Use of Cotton Fiber
 Summer season apparel such as t-shirt, polo shirt, shirt, trouser etc.
 Household fabric such as bed sheet, pillow cover, curtain etc.
 Medical textile produced from organic cotton.

Linen Fiber
 Flax is fiber name and Linen is fabric
name.
 Linen is the cellulosic bust fiber.
 Collected from linseed plant.
 World’s oldest textile fiber.
End Use
 Bath towel, hand towel etc for good
moisture absorbency.
 Household fabric.
 Ladies & baby dress due to high

Advantage of Linen
 Comfortable
 Absorbent
 Hand washable & dye
cleanable
 Dyes & prints well
 Resist dirt and stain
 Withstand high heat
 Drapes well
 Easy to handle and sew
 High luster
 Environmental friendly
Disadvantage
 Weak then cotton
 Wrinkles easily
 Shrinks
 Expensive than cotton
 Burns easily
 Affected by mildew &
perspiration
 Difficult to remove crease

Wool fiber
 Protein fiber from sheep or lambs.
 Worsted wool is higher quality with
longer fiber.
 Natural insulator.
End Use
 Men’s & women’s winter season
apparel.
 Machine or hand knitted good such
fully fashion wear.

Advantage of Wool
 Warm
 Light weight
 Wrinkle resistant
 Absorbent
 Dyes well
 Comfortable
 Durable
 Crease resistant
 Recyclable
Disadvantage
 Affected by moths
 Shrinks with heat and
moisture
 Need special care, dry
cleaning
 Scratchy on stain
 Weakens when heat
 Harmed by bleach or
perspiration
 Absorbs orders

Silk Fiber
 Silk is a natural animal fiber
collected from silkworm.
 Only a natural filament fiber.
 Filament is very fine, long and
continuous thread
End Use
 Men, women and baby clothing.
 Party dress.
 Home furnishing cloth.

Advantage of Silk
 Soft
 Drapes well
 High luster
 Light weight
 Resist soil, mildew and moth
 Absorbent
 Comfortable
 Dyes and print well
Disadvantage
 Expensive
 Need special care, dry
cleaning
 Stains with water
 Yellows with age
 Weakened by
perspiration, sun and
soap.
 Affected by insects.

Coir Fiber
 It is a natural fiber extruded from
coconut husk.
 Products such as floor mats, door
brushed, mattresses'.
 Technically coir is the fiber material
hard, internal shell and outer coat of
coconut.
 Other uses of brown coir (made from
ripe coconut) are in upholstery padding,
sacking and horticulture.

Jute Fiber
 Jute is a long, shiny vegetable
fiber that can be spun into coarse
and strong threads.
 Bangladesh is the world’s
largest exporter of jute.
 Jute fiber is hard.
 Low thermal conductivity and
good moisture absorbency.
 Cheap in market.
 Jute fiber can be blended with
natural and synthetic fiber.
 Crease resistant of jute is very
low and dape property is not
good.

Pina Fiber
 Pina is the natural fiber made from
leaves of pineapple and is commonly
used in the Philippines.
 It sometimes combined with silk or
polyester to create a textile fabric.
 Soft, sheer and little stiff fabric can be
made from pina fiber.

Manufactured fiber
 Manufactured fibers are created by a
manufacturing process of any substance
that is not a fiber.
 Regenerated cellulosic: From
generated fibrous substance in plant.
 Non cellulosic or synthetic- made
petrochemical products.
Process-
 Raw materials melted or dissolved to
form thick syrup.
 Liquid extruded through spinneret.
 Extruded filaments stretched and
hardened into fibers.

Viscose Rayon
 Regenerated cellulosic fiber.
 1st manufactured by American viscose
company in 1894.
 Derived from cotton linters, wood pulp
or vegetable matter.
End use
 Use for make crepe, velvet and satin
fabric.
 Produced highly lustrous fabric.
 Men, woman and baby wear.

Advantage of
Viscose
 Soft & comfortable
 Drapes well
 High luster
 Light weight
 Highly absorbent
 No static electricity &
pilling problem
 Low cost
 Can be washed
Disadvantage
 Wrinkles easily unless
treated
 Heat sensitive
 Susceptible to mildew
 Stretches
 Weakens when heat
 Fabrics shrinks when
washed.
 May be needed dry
cleaning.

Acetate Rayon
 Developed in early 20th century.
 Used in line coats and fabrics.
 Threads used for embroidery.
Advantage
 Luxurious
appearance.
 Soft hand.
 Dyes and print well
 Drapes well
 Resist shrinkage,
moth & mildew.
 No pilling, little
static.
Disadvantage
 Requires dry cleaning
 Weak
 Heat sensitive
 Poor abrasion resistant
 Dissolved by nail polish
remover (acetone)

Lyocell fiber
 Lyocell is the newest manufactured
cellulosic fiber.
 Trade name is Tencel.
 Used to make reusable woven
material, fashion fabric, soft denim and
shirt.
Advantage
 Absorbent
 Biodegradable
 Strong
 Resist sunlight,
aging and abrasion
Disadvantage
 Susceptible to
mildew.
 Expensive

Polyester fiber
 Polyester is a synthetic fiber
developed by DuPont in 1950.
 Ethylene glycol and (T.P.A)
Teraphthelic acid is used to
produce this.
End Use
 Household fabric.
 Men and women
clothing.
 Sports jersey.
 Longer durability fabric.

Advantage of
Polyester
 Strong
 Crisp but soft hand
 Resist stretching and
shrinkage
 Washable or dry cleanable
 Quick drying
 Resists wrinkles
 Abrasion resistant
 Resistant to most chemical
 Colorfast
 Durable
 Dyes well
 Cheap
Disadvantage
 Low absorbency
 Static electricity
 Pilling problem
 No comfort
 Toxic

Nylon fiber
 Invented by DuPont in 1938.
 1st synthetic fiber.
 Made completely from
petrochemicals in an
experimental laboratory.
End Use
 Household item.
 Used widely as monofilament
and multifilament yarn.
 Largely used as stockings,
tights etc.

Advantage of Nylon
 Light weight
 Exceptional strength
 Abrasion resistant
 Easy to wash
 Resists shrinkage and
wrinkles
 Fast drying, low
moisture absorbency
 Can be dyed in a wide
range of colored
 Resist damage from oil
and many chemicals
 Insulating properties
Disadvantage
 Low absorbency
 Pilling problem
 Heat sensitive
 Poor resistant to
sunlight

Acrylic fiber
 fiber composed of linear
macromolecules having in the
chain at 85% by mass of
acrylonatrile repeating units.
End Use
 Originally used for blanket
and resembled wool.
 Used for warm cloth.

Advantage of Acrylic
 Light weight, soft, warm
wool like hand.
 Dyed to bright color.
 Machine washable, quick
drying
 Resist shrinkage and
wrinkles
 Wool like or cotton like
blended appearance
 Excellent pleat retention
 Resist moth, oils and
chemicals
Disadvantage
 Low absorbency
 Pilling problem
 Heat sensitive
 Dissolves by nail
polish remover

Spandex fiber
 Stretches over 500% without breaking.
 Commercial name is Lycra.
 Highly used for making elastic product.
Light weight
 Retains original shape
 Abrasion resistant
 Stronger than rubber
 Soft, smooth and supple
 Resists body oil and
perspiration
 No static or pilling
Disadvantages
 Whites yellow with
age
 Heat sensitive
 Harmed by chlorine
bleach
 Non absorbent
 Higher cost
Advantages

Kevlar & Nomex
 High performance fiber
 Used in special cases such as fire fighting cloth,
bullet proof cloth etc.
Advantages
 Exceptional
strength
 Exceptional heat
and flame resistant
 Resistant to stretch
and abrasion
Disadvantages
 Non absorbent
 Higher cost

Yarn
Yarn is a continuous strand of
interlocking fiber together suitable for
the use of any textile such as weaving,
knitting, braiding, sewing thread,
embroidery etc.

Classification of Yarn
Yarn
Spun
Simple
Single Plied
Cord Cable
Fancy
Filament
Mono Multi
Flat filament
Twisted
filament

Basic yarn
 100% wool
 100% acrylic
 Wool & acrylic blended
 100% cotton (Carded or combed)
 Cotton polyester blended (PC, CVC or TC)
 Melange (Wool or acrylic)

Fancy or Decorative yarn
 Chenille yarn
 Loop yarn
 Cashmere yarn
 Pop corn yarn
 Angora yarn
 Filigree yarn
 Tape yarn
 Lurex yarn
 Smiling yarn
 Nep yarn

Basic yarn
100% Wool
 Wool has a rough surface and its cutting ends are so sharp.
 Bulky and fluffy appearance.
 Poor strength with good water absorbency.
 Hairiness problem. Further causes pilling problem.
 Higher price.
 Low luster.
 Good heat conductivity.

Basic yarn
100% Acrylic
 Substitute of wool.
 Smooth surface.
 Low cost.
 High strength with poor water absorbency.
 High luster.

Basic yarn
Wool & Acrylic Blended
 Moderate strength.
 Comparatively lower cost than wool but higher than acrylic.
 Moderate luster.

Basic yarn
100% Cotton
 Smooth surface.
 Moderate strength with higher comfort properties.
 Lower luster but luster can be increased by mercerization process.
 Two types of 100% cotton yarn. Carded & combed.
 Combed is the finer and high quality yarn with less amount of hairiness.
Where as carded yarn comparatively lower quality with high amount of
hairiness.
 Comparatively higher cost than synthetic yarn.

Basic yarn
Polyester Cotton blended
 Blending of cotton and polyester together.
 PC means polyester cotton where polyester percentage is higher than
cotton. CVC means chief value of cotton where cotton percentage is
higher than polyester.
 65/35 PC means 65% polyester and 35% cotton where as 65/35 CVC
means 65% cotton and 35% polyester.

Basic yarn
Polyester Cotton blended
 PC has higher strength than CVC. But CVC has higher comfort than PC.
 TC means Tetron Cotton. TC is one kind of PC where polyester is higher
than cotton. But in case of TC, Tetron type of polyester needed to be
used where as any type of polyester (Dacron, Tetron, Pentron etc) can be
used.

Basic yarn
Melange Yarn
 The yarn produced by combination of
at least two or more than two types of
different colored fiber mixed together.
 The different fiber either may same
type or may different type.

Chenille yarn
 Chenille is made from cotton, silk or
viscose.
 But silk or rayon is best.
 The yarn is soft and thick and
contains protruding pile in its
surface.

Loop yarn
 It contains at least 3 ply.
 The yarns contains loops in
severe palces.

Cashmere yarn
 A super luxery yarn.
 Made from soft wool of cashmere
goat.
 Soft and strong with smooth
surface.
 Highly used in fully fashioning.

Popcorn yarn
 This yarns are soft and voluminous.
 A larger version of raindrops
composed of 97% wool and 3%
nylon fiber.

Angora yarn
 Angora fibers are collected from
angora rabbit.
 Wool types of fiber.
 Yarns are ultra soft, fluffy, light
weight and warm.

Filigree yarn
 Lace type yarn.
 Luxury appearance.

Tape yarn
 Tape yarns are wide and flat like
ribbon.
 The yarn has high ratio of width to
thickness.

Lurex yarn
 Lurex is the metallic yarn.
 The yarn which shiny surface and
appearance like various metal such
as gold, silver etc.

Smiling yarn
 Multi colored plied yarn.
 Hairy yarns are used in the outer layer.

Nep yarn
 Nep is mixed during
the time of spinning.
 Normally contrast
color nep is used.

Types of Wool Yarn
Wool Yarn
Woolen Worsted

Difference Between Woolen &
Worsted
Woolen yarns are spun from short & coarse fiber where as worsted yarns
are spun from long and finer fiber. Woolen yarns are uneven and it
contains more fuzzy fiber. Worsted yarns are even and it has no or little
fuzzy fiber.

Disadvantages of Wool
Wool fiber has rough surface
structure like as snake skin. For this
reason, it creates allergic problem
when wearing as a inner cloth.
On the other hand, wool fiber source
is limited with higher price. Special
care is needed for wool.

Acrylic- Substitute of Wool
 Due to heat conductive wool is the unique choice for warm cloth.
 But wool can not be used as inner cloth. Also it has higher price and
limited source.
 Acrylic, a man made synthetic fiber which has heat conductive
properties as like wool.
 But it surface is smooth. So that, it can not create allergic problem
during wearing.
 On the other hand, wool fiber source is unlimited with low cost.

Yarn Count
 Count is the relation between length and mass of yarn.
 Count is a numerical value indicates the coarseness or fineness of yarn.
 According to Textile Institute, “Count is the mathematical expression
indicates the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn”.

Yarn Count
Types of Yarn Counting System
 Direct System: Mass per unit length.
 Indirect System: Length per unit mass.

Direct Count
 Tex count: No. of grams per 1000 meters of yarn.
 Denier count: No. of grams per 9000 meters of yarn.
Direct system of yarn count, yarn will be
coarser with the increasing of yarn count.

Indirect Count
 English count : No. of hank of 840 yards per pound of yarn.
 Woolen count (YSW): No. of hank of 256 yards per pound of yarn.
 Worsted count: No. of hank of 560 yards per pound yarn.
Indirect system of yarn count, yarn will be
finer with the increasing of yarn count.

Chart of yarn count:
Count
type
Count Short
form
Length unit
(L’)
Weight unit
(W’)
Direct
count
Tex Nt 1000m 1 gm
Denier Nd 9000m 1 gm
Indirect
count
English/Cott
on
Ne 840 yards 1 lbs
Woolen
(YSW)
NeS 256 yards 1 lbs
Worsted NeK 560 yards 1 lbs

Measuring Formula for Yarn Count
Where,
L = Length of Yarn
L' = Length Unit
W = Weight of Yarn
W' = Weight Unit

What is fabric
Fabric is a flexible planar substance constructed from
solutions, fibre, yarn or fabric in any combination.

Fabric classification
1.woven fabric
2.knitted fabric
3.Non-woven fabric
4.Braid fabric

woven fabric
 M/C=weaving m/c or loom
 Process=Weaving process-interlacing/interlacement
 Only 2 sets of yarn are needed-
 Warp yarn and weft yarn

Knitted fabric
 M/C=Circular knitting m/c
 Process=knitting process-intermeshing/interlooping
 One or one set of yarn is needed

Non-woven fabric
 Process=Nonwoven process-
Mechanical/chemical/Thermal bonding process.
Comes from=Fiber web.

Braided fabric
 M/C=Braiding m/c
 Process=Braiding process-intertwining/Diagonal interlacement
 At least 3 sets of yarn are needed.

Woven fabric specification
{EPI*PPI/Warp count*Weft
count}*Fabric width
Fabric weight calculation:
1. weight per unit area
{GSM}
2. weight in running length.

Wavy Line Printed Viscose And
Polyester(pet) Nonwoven Fabric
Roll

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