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Riesling: nobiltà e lignaggio al servizio del terroir

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Massimiliano Argiolu, sommelier AIS Master Class, spiega la legislazione tedesca sulla classificazione dei vini con gli ultimi aggiornamenti entrati in vigore nel 2012. Questa presentazione è avvenuta durante la degustazione di Riesling organizzata da AIS Como il 17 aprile 2015 .

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Riesling: nobiltà e lignaggio al servizio del terroir

  1. 1. Il Riesling Nobiltà e lignaggio al servizio del terroir
  2. 2. La legislazione tedesca Qualitäswein mit Prädikat (QmP) Vini la cui classificazione è fatta secondo dei “predicati” secondo la maturazione delle uve (no chaptalisation). La base del sistema legislativo tedesco è il livello minimo di maturazione delle uve misurato in gradi Oechsle (°Oe). I predicati : Kabinett Vendemmia normale Spätlese Vendemmia Tardiva Auslese Uve surmature non botritizzate Beerenauslese (BA) Uve surmature parzialmente botritizzate Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) Uve surmature totalmente botritizzate Edelbeerenauslese (EBA) Vecchia denominazione con gli stessi °Oe di un TBA ma da uve non botritizzate
  3. 3. Prädikat Peso minimo richiesto Esempio di requisito per il Riesling Livello minimo di Alcool Dipendente dalla varietà dell’uva e dalla zona Mosella Rheingau Kabinett 67-82°Oe 70°Oe 73°Oe 7% Spätlese 76-90°Oe 76°Oe 85°Oe 7% Auslese 83-100°Oe 83°Oe 95°Oe 7% Beerenauslese, Eiswein 110-128°Oe 110°Oe 125°Oe 5.5% Trockenbeerenauslese 150-154°Oe 150°Oe 150°Oe 5.5% La legislazione tedesca: i gradi Oeschle (°Oe)
  4. 4. Ulteriori indicazioni … Si usano ulteriori diciture in etichetta per distinguere la qualità superiore o il maggior grado di maturazione delle uve all’interno di un Prädikat. In particolar modo per gli Auslese, la presenza di una di queste indicazioni tende ad indicare un vino più o meno dolce. Non c’è una regolamentazione specifica per queste designazioni. Goldkapsel (GK) – Lange Goldkapsel (LGK) Una capsula dorata indica un vino che è considerato il migliore dal produttore. Solitamente indica un Prädikatswein che è più dolce o più intenso, oppure indica che per il piccolo lotto di produzione di questo vino è stata fatta un’asta. *, ** o *** Stelle Indica un Prädikatswein che è stato vendemmiato ad un maggiore livello di maturazione delle uve o più significare un vino più intenso o più dolce. Numero della Fuder (botte) o della Parcella Indica il vino migliore della partita di vinificazione. I numeri non sempre hanno un ordine logico e non sempre ricorrono in tutte le annate. Questa pratica è molto comune per i vini dolci e semidolci della Mosella.
  5. 5. I criteri di classificazione
  6. 6. I criteri di classificazione ERSTES o GROSSES GEWÄCHS • Dai migliori vigneti e terroir di Germania • Parcelle con varietà classificate • Resa massima 50 hl/ha • Raccolto manuale selettivo • Monitoraggio del vigneto durante l’intero ciclo vegetativo • Degustazione da una commissione di esperti VDP. • Peso del mosto equivalente ad uno Spätlese • Commercializzazione 1 settembre dell’anno successivo la vendemmia, per gli Spätburgunder un anno dopo
  7. 7. La classificazione dal 2012 Großes Gewächs Trocken Große Lage Prädikate Süsse Erste Lage Erstes Gewächs Trocken Prädikate Süsse Ortswein Qualitätsweine (QbA) Trocken Prädikate Süsse Gutswein Qualitätsweine (QbA) Trocken Prädikate Süsse Grand Cru Premier Cru Village Bourgogne Einzellage Großlage Bereich Anbaugebiet
  8. 8. La classificazione dal 2012 Valido solo in Rheingau SOLO PER RIESLING TROCKEN
  9. 9. La classificazione dal 2012 GROβES GEWÄCHS • Dai migliori vigneti e terroir di Germania • Parcelle con varietà classificate • Resa massima 50 hl/ha • Raccolto manuale selettivo • Monitoraggio del vigneto durante l’intero ciclo vegetativo • Degustazione da una commissione di esperti VDP. • Peso del mosto equivalente ad uno Spätlese • Commercializzazione 1 settembre dell’anno successivo la vendemmia, per gli Spätburgunder un anno dopo
  10. 10. ERSTE LAGE e ORTSWEIN Vini prodotti da vigne classificate di qualità superiore che mantengono il nome del vigneto in etichetta.  La provenienza è ristretta a vigne che trasmettono al vino delle caratteristiche sempre perfettamente riconoscibili  Scelta delle varietà determinata dalla VDP regionale  Resa Massima di 60 hl/ha  Peso minimo del mosto determinato dalla VDP regionale   Vendemmia con selezione dei grappoli  La vendemmia deve essere fatta a perfetta maturazione La classificazione dal 2012
  11. 11. GUTSWEIN Vini di alta qualità che riflettono il carattere regionale. E’ anche un tentativo di regolamentare zone e produttori che non usano la classificazione VDP  Almeno l’80% delle vigne di un produttore sono impantate con varietà tipiche della regione di appartenenza, come raccomandato dal VDP  Resa massima di 75 hl/ha  Peso minimo del mosto (più alto di quanto prescrive la legge) determinato dalla VDP regionale  Vendemmia manuale per gli Auslese e per le uve ancora più mature  Le procedure in vigneto devono aderire alle misure prescritte per una viticultura integrata  I vini sono soggetti ad esame durante le ispezioni del VDP all’azienda  Le aziende devono rispettare e mantenere nel tempo i criteri di imposti La classificazione dal 2012
  12. 12. La degustazione di oggi 1. Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Kabinett, 2009 Von Schubert 2. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, 2009 J.J. Prüm 3. Steeger St. Jost Grosses Gewächs, 2009 Ratzenberger 4. Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Erstes Gewächs, 2009 Schloss Schönborn 5. Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs, 2009 Hermann Dönnhoff 6. Forster Jesuitengarten G.C., 2009 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf 7. Saarburger Rausch Auslese, 1999 Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

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