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Abstract
With the recent trend of global climate change and its effect on the earth coupled with world-
wide environment concerned buyers and consumers demand as well as the demand of time rather
than current form of production which consumes a lot of natural resource. Textiles industry of
Bangladesh is bound to going a green industry which has been observed the present trend. This
study revealed the approaches to improve the overall environmental and working condition of
textile industries in Bangladesh along with a certain target to achieve an internationally
recognized standard and also attempt to discern the significances of green textiles industries by
comparative analysis between green and non- green industries with the cost measurement of
polo-shirt for same quantity. This study also disclosed that due to the FOB facility in the green
textile industry, its production costs are less, although cost of clothing for both industries is the
same and green textile industry can ensure environmental sustainability.
Introduction
Years of human ignorance has diminished our natural resources and aged our planet. Now,
people are making an effort to change the way they are treating the planet. Eco-friendly or green
production involves activities such as reducing and recycling. The 'green technology' field
incorporates a consistent group of energy production strategies and strategies in non-toxic clean
products. This field has been able to bring innovation and change in daily life in the equivalent of
'Information Technology' explosion for the same two decades. In this initial stage, it is
impossible to predict how 'green technology' can finally be surrounded. Green textile can directly
change the environmental model of clothing industry which is related to environmental issues.
As well as improving the industry with green textile industry, it helps to make the difference
between green and non-green industry. By going eco-friendly can be less harmful to our natural
resources. Not all fashion is following this eco-friendly trend, but more designers are embracing
the trend toward eco-fashion than ever before.
Green Production and Technology
The field of "green technology" encompasses a continuously evolving group of methods and
materials, from techniques for generating energy to non-toxic cleaning products. It has been
related to energy, green chemistry, green building and green nanotechnology. The Green
Production is a production that results in reducing environmental risks and ecological scarcities,
and that aims for sustainable development without degrading the environment. Green production
can be described as eco-friendly production. Same as eco- or environmentally friendly
manufacturing protects the planet from exploitation and conserves natural resources. Products are
made from sustainable materials, while waste is reduced through remanufacturing, reuse and
recycling. Besides being a friend of the earth, being eco-friendly can reduce a business' costs
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through reduced energy use, for example, or lower transportation costs. Both recycling fashion and
organic clothing can contribute to eco sustainable development.
Pollutions due to Textile Industries
The sad fact is that the human greed to look appealing and wear glamorous clothes has ended up
causing harm to the environment. The textile industry is one of the most pollutants releasing
industries of the world. Surveys show that nearly five percent of all landfill space is consumed by
textile waste.
Besides, 20 percent of all fresh water pollution is made by textile treatment and dyeing. It pollutes
land and makes them useless and barren in the long run. At least 8,000 chemicals are used to turn
raw materials into textiles. Surveys show that cotton consumes the highest amount of harmful
pesticides and fertilizers. Majority of them fall on land while they are sprinkled on the crop.
Similarly, textile manufacturing units release hazardous waste into the nearby land.
The majority of the water consumption (72%)takes place in the chemical (wet) processing, i.e.
preparing the fabric for dyeing, printing and finishing operations, intermediate washing/ rinsing
operations and machine cleaning. Other major uses of water in the textile industries are
following:
WATER CONSUMPTION AREA PERCENTAGE
WET PROCESSING (DYEING,
PRINTING, AND FINISHING)
72%
WATER TREATMENT FOR SPECIFIC
PURPOSE
8
COOLING (PROCESSING MACHINES,
COLLING TOWER)
6
STEM GENERATION (BOILER FEED
WATER)
5
DOMESTIC PURPOSE 8
The specific water consumption for cellulosic fabric processing ranges from 100 to 200 liters/kg
of fabric processing, where for synthetic fiber, yarn and fabric irt ranges between 25 to 70 liters/kg
of the product proceed.
Mainly two types of effluent (waste water) are generated from wet processing mill. In main dyeing
process produces effluent which contains strong chemical and intensive color, which contain high
load of pollutant such as biological oxygen demand (BOD), chemical oxygen demand (COD), and
suspended solids (SS). Total organic carbon (TOC) is the amount of carbon bound in an organic
compound and is often used as a non-specific indicator of water quality or cleanliness of a textile
manufacturing industry. In washing and other process produces low to moderate load of pollutant
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such as BOD and COD. Absorbable organic halogens (AOX) are also maintainable effluent in
textile dyeing and printing.
With the progress of industrial growth, noise has become a part of our environment. Development
of modern automated machines in textile industries has considerably decreased the physical burden
of work and worker but one of the most undesirable and unavoidable product of these machines is
noise pollution. High level noise, not only hinders communication between workers also
depending upon the level, quality and exposure duration of noise have physical, physiological and
psychological effects on workers. It should great have concerned about the magnitude of industrial
noise exposure.
Ambient air is a mixture of gases i.e. 78% Nitrogen, 20% Oxygen, about 1% Argon, 0.03% Carbon
dioxide etc. When there is disturbance in the composition of air due to the particular matter or
gases let out from the industries into atmosphere, is considered as air pollution. The particulate
matter may be in the form of fine dust, aerosols, fumes and gases in significant quantities.
Green Textile Processing
Both recycling fashion and organic clothing can contribute to eco sustainable development.
Using organic fabrics is not the only way the fashion industry is going "green" and protecting the
future of our natural resources. Creating and using plant-based-dyes is a wonderful way to gain
an understanding of the biology and the chemistry at work in the plants around us.Sources of
natural dyes are everywhere. Dyes can be extracted from roots, foliage, nuts, berries and flowers.
Until the mid-19th century plants were the primary source of dye. The process of natural dyeing
became obsolete with the discovery that dye pigments could be produced through modern
chemistry. Dyes produced by chemical means are more easily transferred to fibers, do not require
as much time in preparation, and stand up better to repeated washing and exposure to sunlight.
Today natural sources of dyes are used by artisans and crafters. Natural dyes are desirable mainly
because of the quality of color that can be created with them. Dyes extracted from plants contain
many different pigments, and thus are not the "pure" forms of pigment used in today's chemical
dyes. These impurities create rich and sometimes unexpected color, that can never be duplicated.
For many the process of extracting the dyes from their natural sources connects them to their
work, and gives them control over each step of creation.There are many methods used to extract
dyes from plants and use them to color fibers. For the purposes of this web page I will be
describing the mordant method used to dye cotton fibers.
Recycling
Textile recycling is the process by which old clothing and other textiles are recovered for reuse
or material recovery. First and foremost, the renewability of the product. Renewable resources
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are items that can be replenished in a relatively short amount of time. It is the basis for the textile
recycling industry.
For textiles to be recycled, there are fundamental differences between natural and synthetic
fibers. For natural textiles:
 The incoming unwearable material is sorted by type of material and color. Color sorting
results in fabric that does not need to be re-dyed. The color sorting means no re-dying is
required, saving energy and avoiding pollutants.
 Textiles are then pulled into fibers or shredded, sometimes introducing other fibers into
the yarn. Materials are shredded or pulled into fibers. Depending on the end use of the
yarn, other fibers may be incorporated.
 The yarn is then cleaned and mixed through a carding process
 Then the yarn is re-spun and ready for subsequent use in weaving or knitting.
 Some fibers are not spun into yards, however. Some are compressed for textile filling
such as in mattresses.
In the case of polyester-based textiles, garments are shredded and then granulated, and processed
into polyester chips. These are subsequently melted and used to create new fibers for use in new
polyester fabrics.
As society becomes more familiar with the hazards associated with sending old textiles to the
landfill, and the demand and the supply of recycled textiles continue to develop, it can be
anticipated that the textile recycling industry will continue to grow. At the same time, watch for
trend such as slow fashion to draw continued attention to the interplay of clothing and
sustainability.
Organic Clothing
Simply, to qualify as being organic, textiles should be made from natural sources, such as plants
or animals, collected or from organic manufactured. Dyes used on organic clothing should be
either plant/mineral derived or if not of natural origin are environmentally responsible low
impact dyes. No heavy metals or other harmful chemicals should be used in the dyeing process.
An ethically and environmentally aware approach is extended to all aspects of the organic
clothing industry. There is need for eco-friendly wet processing that is sustainable and beneficial
methods. Number of sustainable practices has been implemented by various textile processing
industries such as Eco- friendly bleaching; Peroxide bleaching; Eco-friendly dyeing and Printing;
Low impact dyes; Natural dyes; Azo Free dyes; Phthalates Free Printing. There are a variety of
materials considered "environmentally-friendly" for a variety of reasons.
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Natural Fibers
Natural fibers are fibers that are produced by plants, animals, and geological processes. They can
be used as a component of composite materials, where the orientation of fibers impacts the
properties. Natural fibers can also be matted into sheets to make products such as paper, felt or
fabric. The natural fibers are vegetable, animal, or mineral in origin. Some of the natural fibers
like vegetable fibers are obtained from the various parts of the plants. They are provided by
nature in ready-made form.
Natural Fibers include the following:
Plant Fiber: Abacá, Bamboo, Coir, Cotton, Fique, Flax, Hemp, Jute, Kapok, Pine, Sisal.
Animal Fiber: Alpaca, Angora, Byssus, Camel hair, Cashmere, Catgut, Llama, Mohair,
Pashmina, Rabbit, Silk, Wool, Yak.
Mineral Fiber: Asbestos
Others Natural Fiber: Organic Linen, Rayon, Azlon
Natural Dyes
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority
of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood—
and other biological sources such as fungi and lichens. Archaeologists have found evidence
of textile dyeing dating back to the Neolithic period.
Animal-derived dyes: Cochineal insect (red), Cow urine (Indian yellow), Lac insect (red,
violet), Murex snail (purple), Octopus/Cuttlefish (sepia brown).
Plant-derived dyes: Catechu or Cutch tree (brown), Gamboge tree resin (dark mustard yellow),
Himalayan rhubarb root (yellow), Indigofera plant (blue), Kamala tree (red), Larkspur]
plant
(yellow), Madder root (red, pink, orange), Myrabolan fruit (yellow, green, black),
Pomegranate peel (yellow), Weld herb (yellow)
Different Colors from natural dyes
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 Red: Cochineal(a small insect found on nopales or paddle cactus), Lac(insects),
Hibiscus(flowers), Madder(roots), Red Elderberry(berries), Sumac(berries),
Beetroot(root vegetable), Brazilwood(wood), Sycamore(bark),
Cadmium(mineral), Avocados(fruit)
 Redish Purple: Red Basil(whole plant), Dark Red Hibiscus(flowers),
Daylillies(flowers past their prime), Vermillon(mineral), Lac(insect)
 Pinks: Red Basil(whole plant), Dark Red Hibiscus(flowers), Daylillies(flowers past
their prime), Vermillon(mineral), Lac(insect)
 Yellow: Bayleaves(leaves), Saffron(stamens), Marigold(flowers), Queen Anne’s
Lace(flowers), St John’s Wort(plant), Golden Rod(flowers), Turmeric(roots or powder),
Osage Orange(inner bark or shavings)Tea(leaves), Brown Onion(skins), Larkspur(plant),
Chromium(mineral), Lead(mineral),Titanium(mineral), Annatto(seeds)
 Orange: Brown Onion(skins), Tumeric(roots), Barberry(any part of the plant), Giant
Coreopsis(any part of the plant), Bloodroot(roots), Eucalyptus(leaves) Carrots(root)
 Brown: Oak Bark(bark), Walnut(Hulls), Dandelion(roots), Coffee(grinds), Yellow
dock(plant), Ivy(woody stems), Golden Rose(shoots), Tea(leaves), Sumac(leaves,
powder)
Birch(bark), Brown Clay(clay soil), Limonite(clay), Octopus/cuttlefish(ink)
 Blue to bluish Purple: Dogwood(fruit), Hyacinth(flowers), Indigo(foliage), Red Maple
Tree(inner bark), Woad (leaves), Mulberries(fruit), Elderberries(fruit), Blueberries(fruit),
Cornflower(flowers), Black beans(dried bean), Cobalt(mineral), Copper(mineral), Murex
Snail(trunculus)
 Green: Tea Tree(flowers), Spinach(leaves), Larkspur(plant), Red Onion(skins),
Yarrow(flowers), Chamomile(leaves)Black-eyed Susans(flowers), Nettle(leaves), Dyer’s
Broom(plant), Chromium(mineral)
 Gray to Black: Oak Galls(Galls), Sumac(leaves), Walnut(hulls), Iris(roots), Black Beans
(dried bean), Titanium(mineral), Carbon(mineral)
Other Textile Process Where Natural Resources
Chlorine-free bleaching: Chlorine-free bleaching is the use of hydrogen peroxide to whiten
fabrics. Hydrogen peroxide naturally degrades into oxygen and water, leaving no harmful
chemical residue on the cloth or in the effluent. It is sometimes referred to as Green Bleach.
Cold or low temperature dye processes: Cold or low temperature dye processes save energy by
operating at atmospheric temperatures and do not require steaming of the textile to set or fix
dyes.
Dry-heat fixation: Dry-heat fixation is a method of fixing reactive dyes printed through the ink-
jet method. The dyed/printed fabric is passed through hot iron plates in lieu of steam. This
method conserves water and energy by using an alternative to steam fixing as well as the ink-jet
printing method.
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Dye bath reuse: Dye bath reuse is the practice of recycling the water used in dye baths for
subsequent baths. The water conserved through the bath's reuse is substantial, as anywhere from
10 - 50% of dye from one bath does not fix to the fabric.
Eco bleach: Eco bleach is the use of natural phosphates and silicates in cow dung combined with
sunlight to achieve whitening of natural fabrics. This is the most eco-friendly form of bleaching.
Ink-jet printing: Ink-jet printing is a method of applying pigment and dyes to cloth using an
ink-jet printer. It is considered the eco-friendliest and efficient method of printing due to its
lower water usage, water wastage and energy consumption compared with other commercial
printing methods.
Vegetable tanning: Vegetable tanning refers to the use of natural tannins to create usable leather
from hides. Natural tannins are present in bark, wood, leaves and fruits of chestnut, oak and
hemlock trees. This process is time intensive, as it can take up to three weeks for the tannins to
fully penetrate a hide. From an ecological perspective, vegetable tanning is preferable, however
the leather produced is not stable in water as it shrivels and becomes brittle.
Use of Enzymes: Many textile process can be completed by using of enzymes. Those are given
below:
Process Enzymes used
Desizing Amylase, Lipase
Scouring Pectinase, Cellulose
Bleaching Oxidoreductase, Xylanase
Dyeing Laccase, Oxidoreductase
Finishing Cellulose (Bio-polishing), Oxidoreductase,
Lipase
Compositing (Biodegradation of textile waste) Cellulose, protease, nylonase, polyesterase
Multifunctional finish (Antioxidant, antimicrobial
and water repellent) of wool [6]
By grafting alkyl gallants through Laccase
Anti-felting / Anti-shrinking of wool Proteases and Lipase
Scouring of wool (merino and rambouillet) and
specialty hair fibers (llama, alpaca, mohair and
camel)
xylanase, pectinase, savinase, and resinase
Carbonizing of wool Cellulose, Pectinases, Proteases, , Xylanases
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Degumming of silk [7] Proteases
Retting of Flax and Hemp Pectinases
Polyester finish (removal of oligomers) Esterases
Reduction of hydrophobicity and electrostatic
charges of polyester [8]
Lipase, Esterases and cutinase
Finishing of Nylon [9] Amidase
Finishing of Polyacrylonitrile [10] Nitrilase
Household washing (removal of protein
containing soil & stains)
Proteases
Eco finishing: A finishing process that is most suitable and within the norms of eco label
standards is called Eco Finishing. Some of the useful tips you may consider are:
 Do not use formaldehyde based crease resist/anti-shrinking/wrinkle free finish
substances.
 If you are using any binder type of resins for stiff finish, check for free formaldehyde.
 Have the practice of stocking the finish liquor used in stented padding mangles.
 Please go into the details of chemicals in every finishing agent you are using, such as
anti-pilling agent, antimicrobial agents, etc. The presence of PCP, PCB and TCP should
be checked and avoided.
 Avoid using Acetic acid in your finishing recipes and better use formic acids wherever
possible.
 Vapors and fumes of Ammonia, Formaldehyde, Benzaldehyde, etc are injurious to health.
Water Reuse in the Textile Industry
The textile industry is very water intensive. Water is used for cleaning the raw material and for
many flushing steps during the whole production. Produced waste water has to be cleaned
from, fat, oil, color and other chemicals, which are used during the several production steps.
The cleaning process depends on the kind of wastewater (not every plant applies the same
production process) and also on the amount of used water. Also not all plants use the same
chemicals, especially companies with a special standard (environmental) try to keep water
cleaned in all steps of production. So the concepts, to treat the water can differ from each
other.
It is quite difficult to define a general quality standard for textile water reuse because of the
different requirements of each fiber (silk, cotton, polyester etc.), of the textile process (e.g.,
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scouring, desizing, dyeing, washing, etc.) and because of the different quality required for
the final fabric.
It appears to be, that membrane filtration would be a preferable option compared to other
wastewater treatment techniques because of the constant quality of effluent, that is partly or
almost completely softened and free of color and surfactants
Benefits of Eco Clothing Besides Being More
Environmentally Friendly
One of the greatest benefits of eco clothing is that they are healthier for us.
Conventional garments are often contaminated with chemical dyes and garment finishes (eg.
finishes to make your clothing wrinkle-free, anti-bacterial etc), or even synthetic pesticides
left over from the agriculture processes. For example, many conventional dyes and fixatives
contain heavy metals and dioxins that are found to be carcinogenic.
These harmful chemicals on our conventional clothing come into ready and prolonged
contact with our skin, and can cause us skin irritations and even allergies. Some of these
chemicals might even diffuse through our skin into our body, especially when the chemical
particles are small enough, when our sweat pores are open during sweating, or if the
protective ability of our skin has been reduced substantially. The toxins that enter our body
might then bio-accumulate and can cause harm to our health in the long run.
Besides being healthier for our skin, ecofriendly clothing are also comfortable to wear. They
have been around for centuries and used by our ancestors, before the invention of harmful
synthetic chemicals like toxic dyes, pesticides and fertilizers, etc.
For example, organic cotton is absorbent, soft and comfortable to wear in warm climatic
conditions. Eco-clothing made of soy fibre are light and even have anti-ultraviolet
properties. Bamboo fibre and wool fibre clothing help keep you comfortable throughout the
seasons – warm in winter and cool in summer.
Restriction of Eco-friendly Textiles
Fibres
 Price can fluctuate by harvest results or agricultural politics.
 Lower durability, fiber treatments can improve this considerably.
 Moisture absorption, which causes swelling of the fibers.
 Lower strength properties, particularly its impact strength.
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Enzymes
 The process continues until the enzyme is deactivated
 Most of the enzymes are usually active over narrow range of pH and Temperature, so need
to maintain the Temperature and pH [4].
 Once destroyed, they cannot be reactivated (Exception-Thermo stable enzyme- α-Bacillus
subtilis)
 Certain alkalis, antiseptics and acid liberating agents tend to inhibit the enzyme activity.
 Some enzymes (Proteolytic) may cause irritation (skin and eyes), respiratory allergies.
 Certain enzymes require specific bivalent metallic ions (Ca2+, Mg2+, Fe2+, Mn2+) as
activators to stabilize enzyme substrate complex or by sensitizing substrate to the attack of
enzymes.
Dyes
 Cost – A larger amount of natural dyes may be needed in order to dye a specific amount
of fabric as opposed to synthetic dyes. For instance, one pound of cotton may be dyed
with just five grams of synthetic dye, whereas 230 grams of natural dye are needed to dye
the same amount of material. Since that is the case, using natural dyes is more expensive
than synthetic dyes.
 Color pay-off – Color pay-off from natural dyes tend to fade quickly. More so, quality
may not be as consistent than what synthetic dyes can deliver.
 Availability – Another issue with natural dyes is their availability. It can be difficult to
produce because the availability of raw materials can vary from season to season,
place, and species, whereas synthetic dyes can be produced in laboratories all year round.
 Harmful Effects – Natural dyes can also be harmful to some extent. Logwood has
ingredients, hematein and hematoxylin, that can be have harmful effects when inhaled,
ingested, or absorbed through the skin. Bloodroot, another natural dye source, can cause
irritation and inflammation when inhaled. More so, natural dyes may need mordants for
application. While these substances help the dye stick to fabrics, they can also be toxic.
Example of mordants used in natural dyes are aluminum, copper, iron, and chrome.
 Sustainability – While natural dye sources are renewable, sustainability can still be an
issue for natural dyes because producing them require vast areas of land.
Conclusion
With the eco-fashion industry still in its infancy, the main responsibility at the moment lies with
clothes manufacturers and fashion designers, who need to start using sustainable materials and
processes. Fashion world is showing an enormous growth in the field of eco-friendly clothing
and accessories. Many European and Asian companies are showing a due impact by adopting
some of the generous ways in this context. Getting the great designers from around the world, the
fashion industry is targeting on the organic clothing rather the synthetic or fibre cloths that puts a
lot pressure on the nature.
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In this great step it is not only the fashion world to prop the chart, it is also us who have to take
the initiative. For this we have to recycle the cloths and make them use in the reversible manner.
This will increase the life of the cloths and on the contrary it eliminates the pressure on the
farmlands to grow huge amount of cotton using chemicals. Imagine the amount of land that we
can save through this easy and tolerable step.
Making the land free from the chemicals is the best way to have and eco-friendly fashion world.
However, another step is that to stop the use of the synthetic and chemical coating apparels like
fashionable jackets and closets.
Eco-friendly clothing is also a socially taken step that has the responsibility of having the youth
to participate in it. Most clothing is mass-produced in many countries the company’s line is
manufactured either in Canada or abroad under fair labour practices.

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Green textile processing

  • 1. Page | 1 Abstract With the recent trend of global climate change and its effect on the earth coupled with world- wide environment concerned buyers and consumers demand as well as the demand of time rather than current form of production which consumes a lot of natural resource. Textiles industry of Bangladesh is bound to going a green industry which has been observed the present trend. This study revealed the approaches to improve the overall environmental and working condition of textile industries in Bangladesh along with a certain target to achieve an internationally recognized standard and also attempt to discern the significances of green textiles industries by comparative analysis between green and non- green industries with the cost measurement of polo-shirt for same quantity. This study also disclosed that due to the FOB facility in the green textile industry, its production costs are less, although cost of clothing for both industries is the same and green textile industry can ensure environmental sustainability. Introduction Years of human ignorance has diminished our natural resources and aged our planet. Now, people are making an effort to change the way they are treating the planet. Eco-friendly or green production involves activities such as reducing and recycling. The 'green technology' field incorporates a consistent group of energy production strategies and strategies in non-toxic clean products. This field has been able to bring innovation and change in daily life in the equivalent of 'Information Technology' explosion for the same two decades. In this initial stage, it is impossible to predict how 'green technology' can finally be surrounded. Green textile can directly change the environmental model of clothing industry which is related to environmental issues. As well as improving the industry with green textile industry, it helps to make the difference between green and non-green industry. By going eco-friendly can be less harmful to our natural resources. Not all fashion is following this eco-friendly trend, but more designers are embracing the trend toward eco-fashion than ever before. Green Production and Technology The field of "green technology" encompasses a continuously evolving group of methods and materials, from techniques for generating energy to non-toxic cleaning products. It has been related to energy, green chemistry, green building and green nanotechnology. The Green Production is a production that results in reducing environmental risks and ecological scarcities, and that aims for sustainable development without degrading the environment. Green production can be described as eco-friendly production. Same as eco- or environmentally friendly manufacturing protects the planet from exploitation and conserves natural resources. Products are made from sustainable materials, while waste is reduced through remanufacturing, reuse and recycling. Besides being a friend of the earth, being eco-friendly can reduce a business' costs
  • 2. Page | 2 through reduced energy use, for example, or lower transportation costs. Both recycling fashion and organic clothing can contribute to eco sustainable development. Pollutions due to Textile Industries The sad fact is that the human greed to look appealing and wear glamorous clothes has ended up causing harm to the environment. The textile industry is one of the most pollutants releasing industries of the world. Surveys show that nearly five percent of all landfill space is consumed by textile waste. Besides, 20 percent of all fresh water pollution is made by textile treatment and dyeing. It pollutes land and makes them useless and barren in the long run. At least 8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles. Surveys show that cotton consumes the highest amount of harmful pesticides and fertilizers. Majority of them fall on land while they are sprinkled on the crop. Similarly, textile manufacturing units release hazardous waste into the nearby land. The majority of the water consumption (72%)takes place in the chemical (wet) processing, i.e. preparing the fabric for dyeing, printing and finishing operations, intermediate washing/ rinsing operations and machine cleaning. Other major uses of water in the textile industries are following: WATER CONSUMPTION AREA PERCENTAGE WET PROCESSING (DYEING, PRINTING, AND FINISHING) 72% WATER TREATMENT FOR SPECIFIC PURPOSE 8 COOLING (PROCESSING MACHINES, COLLING TOWER) 6 STEM GENERATION (BOILER FEED WATER) 5 DOMESTIC PURPOSE 8 The specific water consumption for cellulosic fabric processing ranges from 100 to 200 liters/kg of fabric processing, where for synthetic fiber, yarn and fabric irt ranges between 25 to 70 liters/kg of the product proceed. Mainly two types of effluent (waste water) are generated from wet processing mill. In main dyeing process produces effluent which contains strong chemical and intensive color, which contain high load of pollutant such as biological oxygen demand (BOD), chemical oxygen demand (COD), and suspended solids (SS). Total organic carbon (TOC) is the amount of carbon bound in an organic compound and is often used as a non-specific indicator of water quality or cleanliness of a textile manufacturing industry. In washing and other process produces low to moderate load of pollutant
  • 3. Page | 3 such as BOD and COD. Absorbable organic halogens (AOX) are also maintainable effluent in textile dyeing and printing. With the progress of industrial growth, noise has become a part of our environment. Development of modern automated machines in textile industries has considerably decreased the physical burden of work and worker but one of the most undesirable and unavoidable product of these machines is noise pollution. High level noise, not only hinders communication between workers also depending upon the level, quality and exposure duration of noise have physical, physiological and psychological effects on workers. It should great have concerned about the magnitude of industrial noise exposure. Ambient air is a mixture of gases i.e. 78% Nitrogen, 20% Oxygen, about 1% Argon, 0.03% Carbon dioxide etc. When there is disturbance in the composition of air due to the particular matter or gases let out from the industries into atmosphere, is considered as air pollution. The particulate matter may be in the form of fine dust, aerosols, fumes and gases in significant quantities. Green Textile Processing Both recycling fashion and organic clothing can contribute to eco sustainable development. Using organic fabrics is not the only way the fashion industry is going "green" and protecting the future of our natural resources. Creating and using plant-based-dyes is a wonderful way to gain an understanding of the biology and the chemistry at work in the plants around us.Sources of natural dyes are everywhere. Dyes can be extracted from roots, foliage, nuts, berries and flowers. Until the mid-19th century plants were the primary source of dye. The process of natural dyeing became obsolete with the discovery that dye pigments could be produced through modern chemistry. Dyes produced by chemical means are more easily transferred to fibers, do not require as much time in preparation, and stand up better to repeated washing and exposure to sunlight. Today natural sources of dyes are used by artisans and crafters. Natural dyes are desirable mainly because of the quality of color that can be created with them. Dyes extracted from plants contain many different pigments, and thus are not the "pure" forms of pigment used in today's chemical dyes. These impurities create rich and sometimes unexpected color, that can never be duplicated. For many the process of extracting the dyes from their natural sources connects them to their work, and gives them control over each step of creation.There are many methods used to extract dyes from plants and use them to color fibers. For the purposes of this web page I will be describing the mordant method used to dye cotton fibers. Recycling Textile recycling is the process by which old clothing and other textiles are recovered for reuse or material recovery. First and foremost, the renewability of the product. Renewable resources
  • 4. Page | 4 are items that can be replenished in a relatively short amount of time. It is the basis for the textile recycling industry. For textiles to be recycled, there are fundamental differences between natural and synthetic fibers. For natural textiles:  The incoming unwearable material is sorted by type of material and color. Color sorting results in fabric that does not need to be re-dyed. The color sorting means no re-dying is required, saving energy and avoiding pollutants.  Textiles are then pulled into fibers or shredded, sometimes introducing other fibers into the yarn. Materials are shredded or pulled into fibers. Depending on the end use of the yarn, other fibers may be incorporated.  The yarn is then cleaned and mixed through a carding process  Then the yarn is re-spun and ready for subsequent use in weaving or knitting.  Some fibers are not spun into yards, however. Some are compressed for textile filling such as in mattresses. In the case of polyester-based textiles, garments are shredded and then granulated, and processed into polyester chips. These are subsequently melted and used to create new fibers for use in new polyester fabrics. As society becomes more familiar with the hazards associated with sending old textiles to the landfill, and the demand and the supply of recycled textiles continue to develop, it can be anticipated that the textile recycling industry will continue to grow. At the same time, watch for trend such as slow fashion to draw continued attention to the interplay of clothing and sustainability. Organic Clothing Simply, to qualify as being organic, textiles should be made from natural sources, such as plants or animals, collected or from organic manufactured. Dyes used on organic clothing should be either plant/mineral derived or if not of natural origin are environmentally responsible low impact dyes. No heavy metals or other harmful chemicals should be used in the dyeing process. An ethically and environmentally aware approach is extended to all aspects of the organic clothing industry. There is need for eco-friendly wet processing that is sustainable and beneficial methods. Number of sustainable practices has been implemented by various textile processing industries such as Eco- friendly bleaching; Peroxide bleaching; Eco-friendly dyeing and Printing; Low impact dyes; Natural dyes; Azo Free dyes; Phthalates Free Printing. There are a variety of materials considered "environmentally-friendly" for a variety of reasons.
  • 5. Page | 5 Natural Fibers Natural fibers are fibers that are produced by plants, animals, and geological processes. They can be used as a component of composite materials, where the orientation of fibers impacts the properties. Natural fibers can also be matted into sheets to make products such as paper, felt or fabric. The natural fibers are vegetable, animal, or mineral in origin. Some of the natural fibers like vegetable fibers are obtained from the various parts of the plants. They are provided by nature in ready-made form. Natural Fibers include the following: Plant Fiber: Abacá, Bamboo, Coir, Cotton, Fique, Flax, Hemp, Jute, Kapok, Pine, Sisal. Animal Fiber: Alpaca, Angora, Byssus, Camel hair, Cashmere, Catgut, Llama, Mohair, Pashmina, Rabbit, Silk, Wool, Yak. Mineral Fiber: Asbestos Others Natural Fiber: Organic Linen, Rayon, Azlon Natural Dyes Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood— and other biological sources such as fungi and lichens. Archaeologists have found evidence of textile dyeing dating back to the Neolithic period. Animal-derived dyes: Cochineal insect (red), Cow urine (Indian yellow), Lac insect (red, violet), Murex snail (purple), Octopus/Cuttlefish (sepia brown). Plant-derived dyes: Catechu or Cutch tree (brown), Gamboge tree resin (dark mustard yellow), Himalayan rhubarb root (yellow), Indigofera plant (blue), Kamala tree (red), Larkspur] plant (yellow), Madder root (red, pink, orange), Myrabolan fruit (yellow, green, black), Pomegranate peel (yellow), Weld herb (yellow) Different Colors from natural dyes
  • 6. Page | 6  Red: Cochineal(a small insect found on nopales or paddle cactus), Lac(insects), Hibiscus(flowers), Madder(roots), Red Elderberry(berries), Sumac(berries), Beetroot(root vegetable), Brazilwood(wood), Sycamore(bark), Cadmium(mineral), Avocados(fruit)  Redish Purple: Red Basil(whole plant), Dark Red Hibiscus(flowers), Daylillies(flowers past their prime), Vermillon(mineral), Lac(insect)  Pinks: Red Basil(whole plant), Dark Red Hibiscus(flowers), Daylillies(flowers past their prime), Vermillon(mineral), Lac(insect)  Yellow: Bayleaves(leaves), Saffron(stamens), Marigold(flowers), Queen Anne’s Lace(flowers), St John’s Wort(plant), Golden Rod(flowers), Turmeric(roots or powder), Osage Orange(inner bark or shavings)Tea(leaves), Brown Onion(skins), Larkspur(plant), Chromium(mineral), Lead(mineral),Titanium(mineral), Annatto(seeds)  Orange: Brown Onion(skins), Tumeric(roots), Barberry(any part of the plant), Giant Coreopsis(any part of the plant), Bloodroot(roots), Eucalyptus(leaves) Carrots(root)  Brown: Oak Bark(bark), Walnut(Hulls), Dandelion(roots), Coffee(grinds), Yellow dock(plant), Ivy(woody stems), Golden Rose(shoots), Tea(leaves), Sumac(leaves, powder) Birch(bark), Brown Clay(clay soil), Limonite(clay), Octopus/cuttlefish(ink)  Blue to bluish Purple: Dogwood(fruit), Hyacinth(flowers), Indigo(foliage), Red Maple Tree(inner bark), Woad (leaves), Mulberries(fruit), Elderberries(fruit), Blueberries(fruit), Cornflower(flowers), Black beans(dried bean), Cobalt(mineral), Copper(mineral), Murex Snail(trunculus)  Green: Tea Tree(flowers), Spinach(leaves), Larkspur(plant), Red Onion(skins), Yarrow(flowers), Chamomile(leaves)Black-eyed Susans(flowers), Nettle(leaves), Dyer’s Broom(plant), Chromium(mineral)  Gray to Black: Oak Galls(Galls), Sumac(leaves), Walnut(hulls), Iris(roots), Black Beans (dried bean), Titanium(mineral), Carbon(mineral) Other Textile Process Where Natural Resources Chlorine-free bleaching: Chlorine-free bleaching is the use of hydrogen peroxide to whiten fabrics. Hydrogen peroxide naturally degrades into oxygen and water, leaving no harmful chemical residue on the cloth or in the effluent. It is sometimes referred to as Green Bleach. Cold or low temperature dye processes: Cold or low temperature dye processes save energy by operating at atmospheric temperatures and do not require steaming of the textile to set or fix dyes. Dry-heat fixation: Dry-heat fixation is a method of fixing reactive dyes printed through the ink- jet method. The dyed/printed fabric is passed through hot iron plates in lieu of steam. This method conserves water and energy by using an alternative to steam fixing as well as the ink-jet printing method.
  • 7. Page | 7 Dye bath reuse: Dye bath reuse is the practice of recycling the water used in dye baths for subsequent baths. The water conserved through the bath's reuse is substantial, as anywhere from 10 - 50% of dye from one bath does not fix to the fabric. Eco bleach: Eco bleach is the use of natural phosphates and silicates in cow dung combined with sunlight to achieve whitening of natural fabrics. This is the most eco-friendly form of bleaching. Ink-jet printing: Ink-jet printing is a method of applying pigment and dyes to cloth using an ink-jet printer. It is considered the eco-friendliest and efficient method of printing due to its lower water usage, water wastage and energy consumption compared with other commercial printing methods. Vegetable tanning: Vegetable tanning refers to the use of natural tannins to create usable leather from hides. Natural tannins are present in bark, wood, leaves and fruits of chestnut, oak and hemlock trees. This process is time intensive, as it can take up to three weeks for the tannins to fully penetrate a hide. From an ecological perspective, vegetable tanning is preferable, however the leather produced is not stable in water as it shrivels and becomes brittle. Use of Enzymes: Many textile process can be completed by using of enzymes. Those are given below: Process Enzymes used Desizing Amylase, Lipase Scouring Pectinase, Cellulose Bleaching Oxidoreductase, Xylanase Dyeing Laccase, Oxidoreductase Finishing Cellulose (Bio-polishing), Oxidoreductase, Lipase Compositing (Biodegradation of textile waste) Cellulose, protease, nylonase, polyesterase Multifunctional finish (Antioxidant, antimicrobial and water repellent) of wool [6] By grafting alkyl gallants through Laccase Anti-felting / Anti-shrinking of wool Proteases and Lipase Scouring of wool (merino and rambouillet) and specialty hair fibers (llama, alpaca, mohair and camel) xylanase, pectinase, savinase, and resinase Carbonizing of wool Cellulose, Pectinases, Proteases, , Xylanases
  • 8. Page | 8 Degumming of silk [7] Proteases Retting of Flax and Hemp Pectinases Polyester finish (removal of oligomers) Esterases Reduction of hydrophobicity and electrostatic charges of polyester [8] Lipase, Esterases and cutinase Finishing of Nylon [9] Amidase Finishing of Polyacrylonitrile [10] Nitrilase Household washing (removal of protein containing soil & stains) Proteases Eco finishing: A finishing process that is most suitable and within the norms of eco label standards is called Eco Finishing. Some of the useful tips you may consider are:  Do not use formaldehyde based crease resist/anti-shrinking/wrinkle free finish substances.  If you are using any binder type of resins for stiff finish, check for free formaldehyde.  Have the practice of stocking the finish liquor used in stented padding mangles.  Please go into the details of chemicals in every finishing agent you are using, such as anti-pilling agent, antimicrobial agents, etc. The presence of PCP, PCB and TCP should be checked and avoided.  Avoid using Acetic acid in your finishing recipes and better use formic acids wherever possible.  Vapors and fumes of Ammonia, Formaldehyde, Benzaldehyde, etc are injurious to health. Water Reuse in the Textile Industry The textile industry is very water intensive. Water is used for cleaning the raw material and for many flushing steps during the whole production. Produced waste water has to be cleaned from, fat, oil, color and other chemicals, which are used during the several production steps. The cleaning process depends on the kind of wastewater (not every plant applies the same production process) and also on the amount of used water. Also not all plants use the same chemicals, especially companies with a special standard (environmental) try to keep water cleaned in all steps of production. So the concepts, to treat the water can differ from each other. It is quite difficult to define a general quality standard for textile water reuse because of the different requirements of each fiber (silk, cotton, polyester etc.), of the textile process (e.g.,
  • 9. Page | 9 scouring, desizing, dyeing, washing, etc.) and because of the different quality required for the final fabric. It appears to be, that membrane filtration would be a preferable option compared to other wastewater treatment techniques because of the constant quality of effluent, that is partly or almost completely softened and free of color and surfactants Benefits of Eco Clothing Besides Being More Environmentally Friendly One of the greatest benefits of eco clothing is that they are healthier for us. Conventional garments are often contaminated with chemical dyes and garment finishes (eg. finishes to make your clothing wrinkle-free, anti-bacterial etc), or even synthetic pesticides left over from the agriculture processes. For example, many conventional dyes and fixatives contain heavy metals and dioxins that are found to be carcinogenic. These harmful chemicals on our conventional clothing come into ready and prolonged contact with our skin, and can cause us skin irritations and even allergies. Some of these chemicals might even diffuse through our skin into our body, especially when the chemical particles are small enough, when our sweat pores are open during sweating, or if the protective ability of our skin has been reduced substantially. The toxins that enter our body might then bio-accumulate and can cause harm to our health in the long run. Besides being healthier for our skin, ecofriendly clothing are also comfortable to wear. They have been around for centuries and used by our ancestors, before the invention of harmful synthetic chemicals like toxic dyes, pesticides and fertilizers, etc. For example, organic cotton is absorbent, soft and comfortable to wear in warm climatic conditions. Eco-clothing made of soy fibre are light and even have anti-ultraviolet properties. Bamboo fibre and wool fibre clothing help keep you comfortable throughout the seasons – warm in winter and cool in summer. Restriction of Eco-friendly Textiles Fibres  Price can fluctuate by harvest results or agricultural politics.  Lower durability, fiber treatments can improve this considerably.  Moisture absorption, which causes swelling of the fibers.  Lower strength properties, particularly its impact strength.
  • 10. Page | 10 Enzymes  The process continues until the enzyme is deactivated  Most of the enzymes are usually active over narrow range of pH and Temperature, so need to maintain the Temperature and pH [4].  Once destroyed, they cannot be reactivated (Exception-Thermo stable enzyme- α-Bacillus subtilis)  Certain alkalis, antiseptics and acid liberating agents tend to inhibit the enzyme activity.  Some enzymes (Proteolytic) may cause irritation (skin and eyes), respiratory allergies.  Certain enzymes require specific bivalent metallic ions (Ca2+, Mg2+, Fe2+, Mn2+) as activators to stabilize enzyme substrate complex or by sensitizing substrate to the attack of enzymes. Dyes  Cost – A larger amount of natural dyes may be needed in order to dye a specific amount of fabric as opposed to synthetic dyes. For instance, one pound of cotton may be dyed with just five grams of synthetic dye, whereas 230 grams of natural dye are needed to dye the same amount of material. Since that is the case, using natural dyes is more expensive than synthetic dyes.  Color pay-off – Color pay-off from natural dyes tend to fade quickly. More so, quality may not be as consistent than what synthetic dyes can deliver.  Availability – Another issue with natural dyes is their availability. It can be difficult to produce because the availability of raw materials can vary from season to season, place, and species, whereas synthetic dyes can be produced in laboratories all year round.  Harmful Effects – Natural dyes can also be harmful to some extent. Logwood has ingredients, hematein and hematoxylin, that can be have harmful effects when inhaled, ingested, or absorbed through the skin. Bloodroot, another natural dye source, can cause irritation and inflammation when inhaled. More so, natural dyes may need mordants for application. While these substances help the dye stick to fabrics, they can also be toxic. Example of mordants used in natural dyes are aluminum, copper, iron, and chrome.  Sustainability – While natural dye sources are renewable, sustainability can still be an issue for natural dyes because producing them require vast areas of land. Conclusion With the eco-fashion industry still in its infancy, the main responsibility at the moment lies with clothes manufacturers and fashion designers, who need to start using sustainable materials and processes. Fashion world is showing an enormous growth in the field of eco-friendly clothing and accessories. Many European and Asian companies are showing a due impact by adopting some of the generous ways in this context. Getting the great designers from around the world, the fashion industry is targeting on the organic clothing rather the synthetic or fibre cloths that puts a lot pressure on the nature.
  • 11. Page | 11 In this great step it is not only the fashion world to prop the chart, it is also us who have to take the initiative. For this we have to recycle the cloths and make them use in the reversible manner. This will increase the life of the cloths and on the contrary it eliminates the pressure on the farmlands to grow huge amount of cotton using chemicals. Imagine the amount of land that we can save through this easy and tolerable step. Making the land free from the chemicals is the best way to have and eco-friendly fashion world. However, another step is that to stop the use of the synthetic and chemical coating apparels like fashionable jackets and closets. Eco-friendly clothing is also a socially taken step that has the responsibility of having the youth to participate in it. Most clothing is mass-produced in many countries the company’s line is manufactured either in Canada or abroad under fair labour practices.