Student of Dezyne E'cole College ,doing her Degree Programme in Interior Design .Along with the Degree programme the student is also updating her industry required skills of Fashion Design through the Diploma Programme.This is a work showcase of the work of this student after Two year of her study of Design.www.dezyneecole.com
2. Project report on
Topic name
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College, Ajmer towards the
Partial fulfilment for awards of
Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology
Submitted by
FARMAN ASLAM
Dezyne E’cole College, Ajmer
2014-2015
www.dezyneecole.com
Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer
Tel. no. 0145 2624679
3. The Project of Ms. Farman Aslam student of Bachelors of Fashion Technology with two years of women's wear
Fashion Diploma programme has been checked & every aspect of design developed has been & overall grade is-
__________
Thanking You
Principal
Seal& Signature
4. I am thankful to all my mentors whose guidance has helped me to complete my portfolio according to industry.
I am also thankful to Dezyne Ecole college for being my mentor and giving me such a grateful opportunity to make a
industry ready project and I also thanks Dezyne Ecole for giving me wings to fly high in my career.
Farman Aslam
Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
6. What I do is restricted by cloth and the human body.
My job is to make that cloth give expression to the body.’
(VIVIENNE WESTWOOD)
April 1941 is an English Fashion Designer and businesswoman, largely
responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the
mainstream.
QUOTATIONS
7. WHY PEOPLE WEAR CLOTHES?
Physical needs
• Protection
• Safety
Psychological needs
• Identity
• Adornment
• Cultural identity
Social needs
• Affiliation
• Standards
Why clothing?
8. FASHION CAPITAL’S
PARIS
Chic and stylish
MILAN
Casual elegance
LONDON
Unorthodox clothes
NEW YORK
Clean-cut & casual
Dior, Chanel,
Yves Saint Laurent
Valentino, Milan Fair Vivienne Westwood
Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren
9. GOOD FASHION = GOOD DESIGN
A combination of-:
• LINE
• SHAPE
• FORM
• COLOR
• TEXTURE
10. • Fashion is the accepted day to day way of dressing
at a given time. If u see everyone wearing the same
color or style when they have not been the trend before,
such is “in-fashion”.
• Never has and never will-fashion is the outlook of an
individual of today. Even the retro fashion is never seen.
WHY DOES FASHION CHANGE?
• Fashion change because people change.
• We always want something new.
• Clothing always change for practicable reasons.
• “Take the black skirt” as an example.
WHAT IS FASHION?
FASHION DESIGNING
It is the art of application of design and
aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and
accessories. Fashion designing is influenced
by cultural and social latitude, and has varied
over time and place. Fashion designers work in
a number of ways in designing clothing and
accessories.
11. • Ready to wear (Pret-a-Porter)- it’s mass produced
garments. It includes designers originals manufactured to
a certain number for department stores offered at low
cost.
KINDS OF FASHION
HAUTE COUTURE
• Haute Couture- French word meaning high
fashion. It means a one-of-a-kind. These include
designers original designs or clothing that are
custom made.PRET-A-PORTER
12. CATEGORIES OF FASHION
HAUTE COUTURE
Sr. no.
Fashion
categories
Property Lines Textures Colors Effects
1
HAUTE
COUTURE
Designers
collection, very
attractive
Layered and
very specific
Soft textures Soft colors Unique effect
2 CLASSIC
Emphasis's
more on
business and
corporate look
Simple and
traditional
Soft textures
Beige,navy,red
,blue and black
Effect of
leader,
practical
3 ELEGANT
Expensive
designers
collection
Mostly
uncomplicated
Fine fabric
textures
Muted, solid
colors
Executive look
effect very
refined
4 CASUAL
Feeling at
home, denim
Simple and
easy
Natural and
blended fabric
textures
Bright's,
pastels and
earthy tones
Simple and
easy going
effects
CATEGORIES OF FASHION
13. HAUTE COUTURE
Sr. no.
Fashion
categories
Property Lines Textures Colors Effects
5
6
FUTURISTI
C
Emphasis's on
look of
electronic and
computer age
Angular, sharp
and
asymmetric
hard textures
Gold, silver
and
contrasting
Impractical to
our present
times
7 DRAMATIC
Style creates
glamorous
impact
Mostly
uncomplicated
Fine fabric
textures
Strong and
contrasting
Confident
effect
8
CONSERVA
-TIVE
Old fashioned
Simple and
easy curves
Lacy textures
Pastels, soft
and muted
Simple and
innocent
effects
WESTERN
Clothes are
reduced from
the feminine
emphasis
Durable,
simple
and easy
going
Soft textures Earth tones Unique effect
CATEGORIES OF FASHION
14. COLOR WHEEL
IMPORTANCE OF COLORS
• DEFINITION-
• Colors are used in many ways to assert recognition
• Colors have a demonstrable psychological effect
• Military uniforms are intentionally colored to give statement
and impose authority
COMPARATIVE VALUE RELATIONSHIP
15. Sr. no. Colors Emotions
1 BLACK Sophisticated, mysterious
2 WHITE Pure, safe, simple
3 GRAY Dignified, cold and gloomy
4
BROWN Earthy and warm
5
GREEN Fresh, calm, restful, loving
6 ORANGE Warm, new, happy and cheerful
7 PINK Feminine, soft and innocent
8 RED Warning, energetic, cheerful and exciting
9 YELLOW Bright, sunny, alive and positive
10 BLUE Cool, calm, quiet
11 VOILET Royal and rich
COLORSCOLORS
22. FASHION SHOW
DIFFERENT FASHION SHOW
• A fashion show is an event put by fashion designers to
showcase his or her upcoming line of clothing during
fashion week.
• Fashion show debut every season, particularly the
spring/summer and fall/winter seasons.
• Here the latest fashion trends are made.
Fashion shows in INDIA and ABROAD-:
• Lakme fashion week
• New York fashion week
• Wills lifestyle fashion week
• Milan fashion week
• Paris fashion week
• London fashion week
• Miami fashion week
• Japan fashion week
23. FASHION SHOW
New York Fashion Week
Lakme Fashion Week
Bangalore Fashion Week Milan Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week London Fashion Week
24. FASHION BRANDS
TEN VALUABLE BRANDS
• Fashion Brands are the ones that give identity to a
fashion. They are created by designers and are meant
to sale. They carry the trust of the brand and
designers.
Fashion brands-:
• Adidas
• Armani
• Benetton
• Calvin Klein
• Fastrack
• Gucci
• Nike
• levis
• Pepe jeans
• Prada
• Puma
25.
26. FASHION BOUTIQUE
INDIAN BOUTIQUES
• Fashion Boutiques are the ones that give identity to a
fashion. They are created by designers and are meant
to sale. They carry the trust of the brand and designers
• In boutiques the designers keep the selected dress or
the dresses which are highly maintained in advance to
differentiate the garments from other ones.
• Manish Arora's
• Ritu Beri’s
• Amara Pali’s
• Umrao Tailors
• Aki Narelle's
• Chanel
• Yves saint Laurent
• Christian Dior
• Seven
• Oak
• Outfit
• Cos
• Macka
• Vakko
• Matches
INTERNATIONAL BOUTIQUES
27. FASHION SCHOOLS
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
PRET-A-PORTER
• Fashion Schools will provide you the training you
need to advance in your fashion career. Whether you
are interested in clothing design, fashion
merchandising, fashion marketing, or fashion in
general, they provide you with all. Here are examples
of very famous fashion schools.
• Westwood college
• Arizona fashion design schools
• Tucson design college
• California fashion design schools
• International academy of design and technology
• Brooks college
• Colorado fashion design schools
• Denver south Florida fashion designer schools
• American intercontinental university
28. FASHION SCHOOLSFASHION MAGAZINES
• Fashion Magazines bring the world of international fashion home. The best fashion, beauty, shopping, health,
travel and culture, trends, runway slideshows are written in these magazines.
• Vogue: magazine for sophisticated female fashion mavens. Covers the latest in beauty, style, health, fitness and
celebrities.
• Fashion office- features international trends in fashion, design, arts, and photo stories from New York, Paris, Milan.
• Bibi- bridal and fashion magazine geared towards the people of the South Asia.
• Cashak- fashion magazine covering fun, styles and trends.
• Elle- covers style and beauty trends to personalities and lifestyle issues.
• Iconique- includes catwalk shows, trends,.
• Influenza- trade publication for fashion industries.
• Flip-zone- French online fashion magazine featuring couture, ready-to-wear, bridal.
• Nirvana woman- high fashion, beauty, upscale lifestyle magazine for south Asian woman.
• Sassy Bella- Australian fashion magazine.
• Lucire- international source for latest in fashion.
• Adversus- lifestyle magazine featuring fashion, beauty.
29.
30. FASHION CHANNELS
• Fashion Channels are channels on television which
are devoted to fashion and modeling. They show
everything related to fashion from fashion shows to
models.
• Fashion TV
• World fashion channel
TWO FASHION CHANNELS
32. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block
pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic
pattern from which patterns for many different styles can
be developed. The process of changing the size of a
finished pattern is called grading.
Fashion design runs the garment from eveningwear to
sportswear, women’s wear to menswear, and kids wear to
knitwear. Garment Construction popularly called as Pattern
Engineering has a great importance in the fashion design
industry. The companies like Van Heuson, Dockers, Levis,
Adidas etc. are all providers of perfect fit and this is what
we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern
making.
The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up
pattern by pinning fabric directly on a form, then
transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper
pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
33. • The first clothes were made of natural
elements-:
Animal skins
Furs
Grasses and leaves
• Clothing was draped and tied, needles were
made of bones.
• Before sewing machines all clothing were
simple and hand sewn, after sewing
machines were invented, the clothing was
industry took off.
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
• Garment making is a technical accomplishment
that requires knowledge of fabrics, principles of
clothing construction and skills involved in it.
• This depends on the ability to select the correct
fabric, color, design and accessories to suit an
individual occasion.
NATURE AND PURPOSE OF DRESS
• Most obvious function of dress is warmth and protection.
• Identifying the wearer and making wearer appear more
attractive.
HISTORY
34. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT’S
The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers,
curves and straight-edges. A pattern maker uses various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern.
Usually, flat patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted garment made to the
wearer's measurements.
A patternmaker typically employs one of two methods to create a pattern.
35. SYMBOLS AND PATTERN MARKINGS
Onfold
Darts
Pleat
Tuck
Balance Mark
Zip Placement
Bust Point
Buttonhole
Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern
36. SYMBOLS AND PATTERN MARKINGS
Combine buttons
Button positions
Snap fasteners
Single notches
Double notches
Triple notches
Markings to be transferred from
the pattern pieces to the fabric
for matching to indicate for
details
Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern
37. NOTCHES
• Seam allowances
• Center line
• Ease and gathers control
• Dart legs
• Identification of front and back
• Identification of joining parts
• Zipper placements
• Facings
• Hemlines
• Waist lines
• Shoulder tip
• Placement of trims and pockets
• Sleeve cap
Punches/ circles:-
• Dart intake
• Corners
• Button holes/ buttons
• Pocket placement
Seam allowances:-
¼ inches-
• All faced areas
• Narrow spacing
• Extreme curves
• Sleeveless armholes
½ inches-
• Side seam
• Armhole with sleeves
• Waist lines
• Center line
• Style line
Variable(1/4 to ½ inches)
• Placket or zipper
• Top stitched seam
• Side seam
1 inches
• Shoulder
2 inches
• Straight hemline
40. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
• A costume or garment is constructed by cutting the
fabric into parts according to a pattern which fits the
human form; then the different parts
are joined together by sewing.
FINISHES
• Finishing is a final process given to garments-
• Gives a good appearance
• Desirable feel
• Impart certain durable properties
1. Stiffness
2. Softness
41. NECKLINE FINISH- PIPING
PIPING – Piping is a bias strip of fabric on 1 ¼” wide and is attached to the neckline on the seam line after starching.
The piping is finished either by heming or machine stich it is finished to about 1/8” to ¼” wide ready on the right side of
the garment it is a popular finish for necklines.
Here are several steps of preparation to finish a neckline threw piping -
1. Take measurement of
neckline.
2. Mark a bias strip which is
1.5“ wide and length
according to neck + seam
allowance.cf 3. Cut the strip.
4. Pin this strip at neck.
42. NECKLINE FINISH- FACING
SHAPED FACING- A shaped facing is cut following the shape of the neckline and its attached on the right side and
then it is completely turned in. the width of this facing varies for each design but is generally 1-1/2”
3. Cut the strip.
4. Pin this strip at neck.
1. Trace the neckline on fabric
2. Mark a bias strip which is
1.5“ wide and length
according to neck + seam
allowance.
43. GEOMETRY
As since from childhood we are using geometry. We worked through our geometry boxes. As we grew up we came to
see that geometry is everywhere. Geometry is seen in plants, mountains, human figure, architects and many more. The
things which we take in daily use like pen, pencil, rubber, boxes, scales, etc. are also based on geometry.
• Geometry is the combination of shapes, lines, and forms.
• Things that are available in market are in rectangular shapes- copy, boxes, rubbers, sharpeners, pencil, etc.
• In geometry we can find how circles can be used in myriad ways to create geometrical shapes and patterns.
• From Ancient times geometry could be seen in the dresses. Pyramids were constructs through geometry.
• Geometry is all about GOLDEN RATIO.
• Everything on earth is based on FIBONACCI SERIES i.e. human figures.
• Things based on Fibonacci series looks beautiful and elegant.
When I entered in the field of FASHION DESIGNING I came to know that all the cuts on the dresses are based on
geometry. Garment construction totally depends upon geometry. The patterns are developed through geometry.
So, presently I am working on a project which is based on geometry, as geometry fascinated me a lot.
In the subsequent pages you will be able to see how geometry has been used to create different patterns.
44. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new floral pattern is
created by the help of a
circle
45. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new 4 sided floral
pattern is created by
the help of a circle
46. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new square pattern is
created by the help of a
circle in which a square
is developed.
47. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new hexagonal and
diamond shape pattern
is created by the help
of a circle in which a
square is developed.
48. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new triangular and
square pattern is
created by the help of a
circle in which a square
is developed.
49. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new floral pattern is
created by the help of a
circle in which a square
is developed.
50. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new 6 sided floral
pattern is created by
the help of a circle in
which a square is
developed.
51. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new hexagonal pattern
is created in which a
floral pattern is also
developed inside the
hexagons by the help
of a circle in which a
square is developed.
52. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new big hexagon is
developed along with a
6 hexagons inside it
with a 12 triangle
pattern is created by
the help of a circle in
which a square is
developed.
53. PLAYING WITH CIRCLES
• It’s the drafting page in
which circles are used
in different manners to
create a wonderful new
pattern.
• As we can see that a
new 12 side geometric
pattern is created by
the help of a circle in
which a square is
developed.
54. THE ANCIENT WORLD
This civilization reached impressive level of development.
• Clothing & accessories-including protective armor
& talismanic were used .
• Fine linen was woven on the banks of the Nile of Egypt.
• China was the main to produce the silk .
• The Greeks & Romans created fantastic wool Tapestries.
• The Etruscans crafted ornate , tooled metalwork.
55. STARTING POINTS
• The time come when Style & Shape comes in a dress
• Two pieces of material are connected to form a garment.
• The another major thing evolved in this era was Embroidery came.
• The embroidery is majorly done on Neck Hem, Shoulders and Wrist.
56. CYCLE OF FASHION
• The elegant draperies of classical Greek and roman.
• 2. Ancient Egypt’s massive jewelry & the Kohl-eyed, black bobbed “CLEOPATRA LOOK”
• If the cloths people wore in the distant past often look remarkably modern and familiar because the styles are
continually revived through cycle of history.
CLEOPATRA LOOK ELEGANT DRAPERIES
57. FASHION FROM STONE AGE
(500,000-100,000BCE)
• Hides of animals were worn as a first clothing
(40,000BCE)
• The earliest bone needle date
back to 30,000BCE
30,000BCE
• People used Ochre, Hematite,& Charcoal to
decorate their own bodies
(1,900BCE)
• Jewelry started to play an important role.
• Colored glass & semi precious gems were also used.
58. PREHISTORY-600CE
FROM FUNCTION TO IDENTITY
The Prehistory time has the impressions
of :-
• Bone sewing needles, reindeer horn
buttons, amber necklaces , etc.
• Furs were dated back from
prehistoric time period.
• T-Shaped Tunic was worn.
• Stitching has been used sometime.
JEWELLERY
• Bone, stone & shell jewelry were
used in prehistoric time.
• Gold was prized item which was
used.
Geometric
patterns
impresses
with a stylus
Early Bronze Age
Gold lunula
59. MINOAN CULTURE
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
• Minoan ideas was accepted
by Egypt and Greece.
• Men wore peaked, caps, wrapped
loin cloth.
MEN’S CLOTHING
Women wore flounced skirts , Embellished sleeves
and hats.
60. ANCIRNT EGYPT(3150BCE-30CE)
MEN’S CLOTHING
• Clothing worn by Egyptians was of Linen.
• Minimal cutting was there & clothes was simple.
• Egyptians used Indigo Dyed wigs.
• Men’s wore a SCHENTI cloth wrapped around the hips
which hung fold in front.
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
Women wore a KALSIRIS(Sheath like dress) with
detachable sleeves
INDIGO DYED WIGS
61. WOMENS CLOTHING
QUEEN NEFERTITI
A beaded dress worn by Egyptian women
This beaded dress is having
3000 cylindrical & disc – shaped
colored beads
2400BCE
Hems fringe of mitra shells
Beads glazed in green, blue,
black, brown
High waistband
• Decorative collar circles her neck & shoulders.
Most famous image of Queen Nefertiti From
Egyptian museum 1350BCE
• Nefertiti wears a flat-topped crown with decorative
ribbon & a symbol of cobra.
62. STYLE IN THE EAST
• China was the main center for silk fiber
• They included highly patterned , light reflective
fabrics.
• The T-shaped kimono –style garment
(having wide sleeve) they wore.
WIDE SLEEVES
SASH IN CONTRASTING COLOR
TUBULAR SKIRT
UPTURNED SHOES
The type of dress worn by
Chinese people
Robe wrapped around
the body
Richly Embroider Dress
Diagonal Front of robe
Contrasting Silk Border
STYLE IN THE EAST
63. GREECE
STYLE IN THE EAST
Greek wore CHITON(Tunic) up to Knee – length, with long
sleeves & held up at the waist.
CROWN OF
LAUREL LEAVES
CLOAK OF
WOOL
GALLICAE
(KNEE HIGH BOOTS)
The type of dress that
Influenced the Greece
Period
The another costume wore by Greek people was
PEPLOS
As with Tunic this garment is
managed by the wearer &
may be wore with the belt.
This pepols was made from
Wool
GARMENT FALLS IN
HEAVY FOLDS
LINEN
UNDERSHIRT
NATURAL OPENINGS
CREATED FOR ARMS
BROOCHES
64. ROMAN EMPIRE 509-476BCE
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
• Only the emperor can wore PURPLE TOGA .
PURPLE BORDER
INDICATES HIGH STATUS.
TOGA DRAWN
OVER THE HEAD
• Women's basic garment was stola which hung in
pleats from shoulders .
• The brooches which they use for fastening
considered as “FIBULAE”.
• Over stola they wore
“PALLA” a kind of shawl.• Leather sandals or boots
protected the feet.
65. ROMAN EMPIRE 509-476BCE
HAIR STYLES
• The memorable garment of roman
male dress. was “TOGA”, basically a
semi circle piece of fabric
MEN’s CLOTHING
• A subucula (simple tunic )
was worn underneath.
• They wore shoes
known as
“CALCEI”.
• Men generally keep their hair short
• Women used to curl their hairs through the hot metal
rods.
• Hair pieces & wigs were used in this culture.
WOMEN’S HAIRSTYLE
CURLS WERE MADE
USING HEATED METAL
CURLING TONGS
HAIR POMADES & CREAMS
WERE MADE FROM ANIMAL
FATS
MEN’S HAIRSTYLE
66. BYZANTINE STYLE
WOMEN’S COSTUMES
• After the fall of Rome in 476CE the Byzantine Style
came into existence
• This Style was the fusion of Greek, Roman ,
Middle eastern , & Oriental styles.
EARLIER ATTIRE
OF THE BYZANTINE
EMPERORS
LATER ROYAL ATTIRE
OF THE BYZANTINE
EMPERORS
• The veils & silk were worn by women
• Poor people wore plain woolen
tunics, knee-length with leggings
,boots & a cloak on the top
67. BYZANTINE STYLE
MEN’S COSTUME
EMPEROR;S ATTIRE
•The T-shaped tunics & cloaks worn by men
CROWN INLAID WITH JEWELS
JEWELS HANGING
AROUND FACE
LARGE FIBULA HOLDS
MANTLE IN PLACE
GOLD & SILK WOVEN
TABILON ( DECORATIVE
PANEL)
SHOES EMBROIDED &
ENCRUSTED WITH PEARLS
68. BYZANTINE STYLE
MEN’S COSTUME
EMPERESS ATTIRE
•The T-shaped tunics & cloaks worn by men
PADEED HEADDRESS
CALLED PROPOLOMA
STRINGS OF PEARLS
AROUND FACE
IMPERIAL DECORATIVE
COLLAR
JEWEL-EMBLISSHED
PANEL AT WAIST
SEMCIRCULAR CAPE
CALLED A MANTION
EMBROIDERED SHOES
70. MARKET RESEARCH
• In order to gain an understanding of current fashion
stock and ranges across market level, the designers
need to conduct “COMP SHOP” this term refers to
competitor, retail outlets, stock and comparing this
stock with each other.
• Quality of fabric construction and detailing are carefully
studied along with prices and origin of manufacturers.
• It provides a great deal of information like planning and
selling fashion collection.
• Finally, it will be the fashion buyers who make the
decision to order fashion.
• Decisions based on-
1. Historical knowledge of customer
2. Quality of merchandise
3. Exclusivity, price and stock in previous season
HOW TO START COLLECTION
• Any successful or financially viable collection
require an enormous amount of research.
• Designers, manufacturers have information of their
customers need.
• In addition to creation of any collection we need to
consider a lot of consideration.
71. THEMES FOR COLLECTION
• Designer selects theme, color, type of fabric, place,
history, event.
DESIGNING FOR COLLECTION
• Designing builds of theme and includes number of
garments, to be done. From paper pattern to muslin
sample, adjustments, accurate pattern, samples in
fashion fabric and various colors in three month
period.
72. COLLECTION AND THEIR INFLUENCES
• ARCHIVISM
In a fashion context, archivism refers to the way in which designers look back to previous collections for inspirations. In
particular the original aesthetics of all well established label may be revisited decades later, with collection referencing
the same design influences and detailing. Designers such as Karl Lager field for Chanel and John Galliano for Christian
Dior continue to refer the fashion houses iconic statements, playing with scale, logo and accessories,. These designers
continue to update the signature of past. These fashion sources fluctuate in importance and influence due to trend
directions and fashion ever changing aesthetics.
KARL LAGERFIELD
73. CONCEPTUAL INFLUENCES
The origin of contemporary conceptual fashion may well be credited to the Japanese designers Rai Kawakubo, Yohoji
Yamamoto, Issey Miyake. For decades these designers have been producing the most intriguing, provocative fashion
by creating new ways of cutting and constructing. Conceptual collections are often beautiful, timeless, ageless, and
dislocated from most visual narratives, however they can also be challenging, abstract. There is usually little or no
decoration to obscure the essence of proportion, cut, finishes, or quality, of fabric, used
REI KAWAKUBO YOHOJI YAMAMOTO ISSEY MIYAKE
74. GLOBAL INFLUENCES
International developed the world and influence knowledge Japanese Kimono, Chinese Cheongsams, Indian Sari,
Tartans, Jacquard, Ikkat, Paisley, Russian Prints went on refining and developed into new fashion collections.
CHINESE CHEONGSAMS RUSSIAN PRINTS PRINTS
75. FORM AND FUNCTION
Functional garment like military wear and expeditions clothing, work wear and utility clothing fall under this category of
design there performance erogenous of the wearer activities and environment are paid attention while designing.
SPORTS WEAR
• Cary Williams, Calvin Klein got attached by camouflage and silhouette. Calvin Klein created military inspired
PARKA.
• The SAFARI JACKET, riding jacket, cargo pants.
CALVIN KLEINPARKA JACKET SAFARI JACKET ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
76. DRAPING
TWO FASHION CHANNELS
PRET-A-PORTER
• Fashion Channels are channels on television which
are devoted to fashion and modeling. They show
everything related to fashion from fashion shows to
models.
• Fashion TV
• World fashion channel
77. DRAPING
WHAT IS FASHION DRAPING?
• Draping technique is the technique means the way of
fabric changing.
The method of draping includes stitching the garment by
use of loosely hanging material to create flowing effect.
Draping needs ability to do exact fitting, fall and fullness.
Fashion draping is an important part of fashion
designing. It’s the process of positioning and pinning
fabric on dress to develop the structure of garment
design. It’s done with muslin. Fashion designers
drape garments in sections- front & back bodice,
front and back skirt. Only the right side of the fabric
is draped.
78. PROCESS OF DRAPING
MECHANISM DRAPING?
• Pieces of muslin are cut and prepared. It includes-
measuring, blocking, marking grain lines.
• Fabric is pinned to dress form and positioned to form
darts, tucks, to give shape and fit to the garment.
• Once the design is achieved, marking of seam lines
darts etc. are marked on muslin.
• After marking muslin is removed and laid on flat table
for trueing for giving smooth curves.
• Again the muslin is pinned on dress form along with
pinned darts to check fit accuracy.
• Muslin is removed and pressed flat to transfer markings
on paper, creating sewing pattern.
Designers have to consider many aspects while
draping fabrics like, material and GSM of fabric.
Materials like chiffon, satin, silk are used in draping.
Drape meter was used to determine a drape
coefficient. It contains a number from 0 to 100 in
written format.
Eg. Satin and muslin clothes have good draping
property than twill hosieries.
80. SURFACE DESIGN TECHNIQUE
• Surface design encompasses the coloring, patterning, and structuring of fiber and fabric. This involves creative
exploration of processes such as dyeing, painting, printing, stitching, embellishing, quilting, weaving, knitting, felting,
and papermaking, manipulation.
SHIBORI COLLAR SCREEN PRINTING
FABRIC PAINTING
81. EMBROIDERY
• Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread. It may incorporate other
materials like, metal strips, pearls, beads quills and sequins.
• Stitches used- chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch.
82. PRINTS
• PRINTING is a process for reproducing text and images using a master form or template.
• Earliest examples- Cylinder seals, Cyrus cylinder, and Cylinders of Nabonidus.
For designing garments one has to have a good knowledge of elements and principles of design.
The elements play a major role in development of any design. Elements like line, shape, color, value, texture are used
as structural and decorative way on a garment so that the appearance comes out beautiful and pleasing.
In the subsequent pages I have presented how basic prints can create optical illusion on the garment.
Prints are decorative elements which can create beautiful textures on the garment. In this portfolio I have presented
using Photoshop the basic prints dress form. For designing garments one has to have a good knowledge of elements
and principles of design. The elements play a major role in development of any design. Elements like line, shape, color,
value, texture are used as structural and decorative way on a garment so that the appearance comes out beautiful and
pleasing.
In the subsequent pages I have presented how basic prints can create optical illusion on the garment. Prints are
decorative elements which can create beautiful textures on the garment. In this portfolio I have presented using
Photoshop the basic prints dress form.