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Akshay sharma,BS.c-Fashion Technology,+2 years Diploma
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5. CONTENT
CASE STUDY: client profile
SAREE : Introduction
DRAPING STYLE OF SAREE
INDIAN TRADITIONAL SAREE
MOTIFS IN INDIAN SAREE
DEZYNE DEVELOPMENT
• Motif selection
• Simplification of motif
• Repetition of motif in shape
• Border design
• Saree body
• Fabric selection
• 10 saree design
• 2 saree with specification
• 1 final draped saree
BIBLIOGRAPHY
6. CASE STUDY
As a designer we are suppose to design the saree collection for Air hostess of “Indian Airlines”.
CLIENT PROFILE
• She is a national client and repudiated air hostess of “Indian Air lines”
• Age between 28-30 with fair skin tone and height 5’8”
• Her demand look young and elegant.
• She want a unique collection of sarees according to her work.
7. SAREE
A SARI or SAREE is a South Asian female
garment that consists of a drape varying
from five to nine yards (4.5 m to 8 m) in
length and two to four feet (60 cm to 1.20
m) in breadth that is typically wrapped
around the waist, with one end draped
over the shoulder, baring the midriff.
8. SAREE DRAPE STYLE
ASSAMESE – This sari style is three-
set garment known Mekhela chador.
The bottom portion, draped from
the waist downwards is called
Mekhela and veil is known
as Chadar and is worn with long
sleeve choli.
NIVI – styles originally
worn in Andhra Pradesh.
MAHARASHTRIAN, Konkani
or Kashta; this drape is very
similar to that of the male
Maharashtra dhotI.
9. SAREE DRAPE STYLE
MADISAR : This drape is
typical of Iyengar/ Iyer
Brahmin ladies from Tamil
Nadu. Traditional Madisar
is worn using 9 yards saree
BENGALI & ODIA style is
worn without any pleats.
MALAYALI STYLE – the two-
piece sari, or Mundum
Neryathum, worn in Kerala.
Usually made of unbleached
cotton and decorated with
gold or colored stripes and
borders
11. Chanderi sari is a traditional sari made
in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India.
Fabric - pure silk, chanderi cotton and silk cotton.
Patterns- Traditional coin, Flora art, Peacocks and
geometrics are woven into different chanderi patterns.
History-But the weaving culture or tradition has been
available from the 13th century. In the beginning the
weavers were Muslims and later in 1350 the Koshti
weavers from Jhansi were migrated to Chanderi and
settled down there. During the Mughal period the cloth
business of chanderi has moved to peak.
CHANDERI SAREE
12. Sambalpuri Saree is a traditional handwoven ikat saree
where the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving.
It is produced in the Bargarh, Sonepur, Sambalpur, Balangir
district, Boudh District of Odisha
Motifs shankha (shell), chakra (wheel), phula (flower), all
of which have deep symbolism,
In this technique, the threads are first tie-dyed and later
woven into a fabric, with the entire process taking many
weeks. the highpoint of these sarees is the traditional
craftsmanship of the ‘ Bandhakal ', the Tie-dye art
reflected in their intricate weaves, also known as
Sambalpuri "Ikkat".
These sarees first became popular outside the state when
the late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi started wearing
them. In the 1980s and 1990s they became popular across
India
SAMBALPURI SAREE
13. TANT SAREE
TANT SAREE is a traditional Bengali saree and usually used
by Bengali women. It is traditionally made by the weavers from all
over West Bengal and Bangladesh but Murshidabad of West Bengal
and, Tangail of Bangladesh are famous for tant saree weaving
Tant saree are woven from cotton threads and distinguished by its
lightness, transparency, thick border and a decorative pallav . It is
considered to be the most comfort .
MOTIF : Bhomra (bumble bee), Tabij (amulet), Rajmahal (royal
palace), Ardha-Chandra (half moon), Chandmala (garland of moons),
ansh (fish scale), hathi (elephant), nilambari (blue sky), ratan chokh
(gem-eyed), benki (spiral), tara (star), kalka (paisley) and phool
(flower).
West Bengal chief minister Mamata Banerjee wears tant saree which
is brought from Dhaniakhali. This has a typical dimension. This is 6-
metre long instead of usual 5.5-metre long saree.
14. BALUCHARI SAREE
BALUCHAR SARI or Baluchuri Sari originated in Bengal and is
known for depictions of mythological scenes on the pallu of the
sari. It was mainly produced in Murshidabad but presently
Bishnupur and its surrounding places of West Bengal is the only
place where authentic Baluchuri sarees are produced. Producing
one sari takes approximately one week or more.
The production process of Baluchari or Baluchuri can be divided
into several parts:-
Cultivation of cocoons
Processing of yarns
Weaving Motif making( jacquard machine.)
15. PATOLA SAREE
PATOLA are a double ikat woven sari, usually made
from silk, made in Patan, Gujarat, India.
They are very expensive, once worn only by royalty and the
aristocracy, There are three families left in Patan that weave these
highly prized double ikat saris. It can take six months to one year
to make one sari.
PATTERN: There are four distinct patterns which are woven
primarily in Gujarat by the Salvi community. In Jain
and Hindu communities, double ikat saris with entire designs of
parrots, flowers, elephants, and dancing figures are generally
used.
In Muslim communities, saris with geometric designs and flower
patterns are typical, being worn mostly for weddings and other
special occasions.
Maharashtrian Brahmins wear saris woven with plain, dark
colored borders and body, and a bird design called Nari Kunj.
16. POCHAMPALI SAREE
POCHAMPALLI IKAT is a saree made in Bhoodan
Pochampally, Nalgonda district, Telangana State, India.
MOTIFS : They are popular for their traditional geometric
patterns in Ikat style of dyeing. The intricate geometric design
find their way into the hands of skilled weavers
Pochampally Ikat uniqueness lies in the transfer of intricate
design and colouring onto warp and weft threads first and
then weave them together globally known as double ikat
textiles. The colors themselves are from natural sources and
their blends.
FABRIC: The fabric is cotton, silk and sico - a mix of exquisite
silk and cotton. Increasingly
17. KANCHIPURAM SAREE
KANCHIPURAM SAREE traditionally made by weavers
from Kanchipuram located in Tamil Nadu, India. Popularly
known as Kanjivaram Saree
MOTIFS : Temple borders, checks, stripes and floral (buttas)
are traditional designs found on a Kanchipuram sarees. Suns,
moons, chariots, peacocks, parrots, swans, lions, coins,
mangoes, leaves and many such motifs are woven into
Kanchipuram patterns. Other common motifs include a
jasmine bud within a square or a round frame, locally known
as mallinaggu.
FABRIC : saree are wovened by pure mulberry silk. The pure
mulberry silk used in the making of Kanchipuram saris comes
from the neighboring state of Karnataka and the zari comes
from the state of Gujarat and the sari weaving process is done
in kanchipuram.
18. VENKATAGIRI SAREE
VENKATAGIRI SARI is a sari style made in Venkatagiri, Andhra
Pradesh, India. They are popular for their unique zari designs.
Venkatagiri sari is known for their fine weaving. The looms
used in Venkatagiri are mostly pit looms. Pit looms are looms
which are fixed at the ground level and there is a pit in which
the loom's pedal is placed. The weaver will sit on the floor
and use her hands and legs to weave.
There are many varieties, such as Venkatagiri 100, Venkatagiri
Putta and Venkatagiri Silk. Venkatagiri 100 is the lightest sari
and popular.
19. KOTA DORIA SAREE
KOTA DORIA is one of many types of sari garment Made
at Kota, Rajasthan and Muhammadabad Gohna, Mau in Uttar
Pradesh and its nearby area.
FABRIC: Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk
MOTIFS: The square like patterns used are known as khats .
The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular.They are very
fine weaves and weigh very less.
Kota Doria is woven on a traditional pit loom in such a fashion that
it produces square checks pattern on the fabric. The delicately
wrought checks are locally known as khats.
20. BANDHANI SAREE
BANDHANI is a type of tie-dye .Today most Bandhini making centers
are situatied in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab region.
Bandhani is also known as Bandhej, Bandhni, Piliya, and Chungidi in
Tamil as per the regional delicate.
TECHNIQUES: It include Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the
manner in which the cloth is tied. The final products are known with
various names like Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and also Chandrokhani
etc.
The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a
thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like
Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etc.
COLORS: The main colours used in Bandhani are natural : yellow, red,
blue, green and black. As Bandhani is a tie and dye process, dying is
done by hand and hence best colours
41. FABRIC SELECTION
According to my client aspects I have choose fabric which give her feel of
comfort ,soft and some flexibility. The fabric with such finishes:
• Stain & wrinkle resistance
• Color fastening
• Soft hand
• Little luster
49. BIBLIOGRAPHY
The sources which help me to complete my project:
• Traditional Indian textile: my course book
• Fabric studies
• My mentors
• Our faculty