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Akshay sharma,BS.c-Fashion Technology,+2 years Diploma
1.
2. I am deeply thankful to all those who help me to complete my project.
I am thankful to our mentors been the part of my hard work to complete the project.
AKSHAY SHARMA
B.Sc. Fashion technology +
2yrs. Advanced Diploma in Fashion technology
AKNOWLEDGEMENT
3. What is Collection ?
A collection is a range of garment,
accessories or products that are designed
and produced for sale to retailers or direct to
customer.
This range of pieces may be inspired by a
trend, theme or design direction reflecting
culture and social influence, and it is usually
designed for a season or particular
occasion.
A collection is a grouping of outfits or look
that are presented in a variety of ways , from
catwalk presentations to online webpages.
Collection are usually constructed from a
combination of silhouettes, colours and
fabrics, with emphasis varying depending on
the designer’s particular aesthetic.
4. Collection & Their Influences
It is possible to group or identify common themes in fashion, those which influence the creative
process in developing a collection, or how we choose to wear cloth. Recurring influence include
traditional costume, active sports, workwear, the military, politics and futurism.
Each new collection can explore a subtle redefinition of these recurring influences through the use
of colour, fabrics, proportion and juxtaposition. Many designers establish successful brands based
on a visual identity that celebrates a particular theme.
CONCEPTUAL INFLUENCE
FORM & FUNCTION
WORKWEAR
SPORTWEAR
FUTURISTIC
GLOBAL
POLITICAL
ARCHIVISM
5. Conceptual Influence
The origins of contemporary, conceptual fashion may
well be credited to the Japanese designer Rei
Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
For decades, these designers have been producing the
most intriguing, provocative fashion by creating new
ways of cutting and construction.
Conceptual collections are often beautiful, timeless and
dislocated from most visual narratives. However, they
can also be too challenging, abstract or unrelenting in
identity, diminishing their influences on fashion trends.
Designers Hussein Chalayan, Helmut jil sander are all
known for a minimalist, exacting aesthetic, which owes
much to the rigours and precision of innovative
architecture and reductive product design.
There is usually little or no decoration to obscure the
essence of the proportion, cut, finish or quality of fabric
used. Beauty derives from the garments’ core
components and construction.
DESIGNERS
6. Form & Function
Functional garments, such as military wear and expedition
clothing, have long influenced fashion designers. Menswear in
particular continues to reference iconic military garments,
workwear utility clothing, being updated in fabric, colour and
details.
Military clothing has informed fashion partly due to the
performance and ergonomic considerations of the wearer’s
activities and environment, as well as its overall look.
Designers, such as Robert Cary-Williams, whose army
background influenced his earlier collections for colour and
silhouette, specifics such as camouflage have created and
entire fashion agenda, involving recolouration and reapplication
in unexpected contexts.
The outcome may be as simple as Calvin Klein showing a
military-inspired parka worn over a neat, single-breasted suit,
with a shirt and tie.
The safari jackets, the jacket, trench coat, shooting/fishing
jacket, the cargo pants and the biker jackets are all example of
this type of fashion transition.
DESIGNERS
7. Work Wear
The origin of source and aesthetic is arguably
Levi Strauss, who in the late 1800s created the
first work overalls using twill cotton from Nimes, in
France.
This twill cotton-denim-has since been
popularized by nearly every known designer and
an infinite number of manufacturers across the
world. In music, films, politics, youth culture and
high-end fashion,
Denim is used as a basic upon which unlimited
fashion stories can be created. The cloth’s
traditional construction details can be reworked
with endless possibilities; it is ageless global and
accessible to every social group.
When asked if there was a garment he wished he
had created, Yves saint Laurent answered ‘ the
blue jean’.
BRANDS
8. Sport Wear
In the early 1980s American designer Norma Kamali launched a fashion
celebrating the use of traditional sweat shirting as a fashion fabric. This
proved successful at a time when exercise and healthier lifestyle were
beginning to dictate a new style of clothing. Kamali recently revisited this
type of fashion by collaborating with Everest in the USA to design an
extensive range of ‘fashion sweats’ for today’s body conscious woman.
The sports world has inspired a number of fabrics and garment
developments specific to athletic performance and associated activities.
The international interest, appeal and support for modern sport has
proven irresistible to designers and producers. Companies have been
swift to collaborate with number of fashion and product designer to raise
consumers awareness of sportswear as a credible lifestyle. fashion
statement
Brand puma has collaborated with designers such as Alexander
McQueen, Fred Perry has worked with Comme des Garcons in
refreshing the iconic sports polo shirt and Adidas has successfully
created Y3 with Yohji Yamammoto, to include full catwalk presentation of
this sportswear and fashion fusion.
DESIGNERS
9. Futuristic Influence
The US designer Geoffrey Beene is regarded as a futurist , in
late 1990s he decided to no longer use historical reference on
the basis that too many designer over-depended on them,
restricting their development as innovative designer. He was
responsible for redefining modern womenswear as we know
today.
In the 1950s and 1960s French designer Pierre Cardin, along
with his contemporaries Andre Courrages and Paco
Rabanne, designed futuristic, space-age fashion, which
referenced science fiction rather than historical and traditional
sources.
Futuristic fashion can be obvious in its presentation (such as
‘space-age’ clothes) but , more importantly, it is about breaking
new background, taking a fashion in new direction.
For example, Cardin was first couturier to launch a ready-to-
wear line and he was subsequently expelled from Chambre de
Syndicale in Paris.
Gareth Pugh has evolved and refined the futuristic aesthetic
displayed in his graduate collection. His exquisite pieces
combine strong silhouettes and bold colour, which represent
the future of fashion todayDESIGNERS
10. Global Influence
Since the 1960s international travels has become affordable
and accessible to the majority of the developed world. This has
greatly influenced our knowledge; how we can furnish our
homes; choices in the food we eat; and how we dress.
Ever since Yves Saint Laurent first showed the Moroccan
Jellabh in the 1970s, designers and fashion consumers have
understood the value and attraction of exotic, unusual
garments, Fabrics and Accessories.
Garment such as the Scottish kilt, Indian sari, Chinese
cheongsam and Japanese kimono have been continuously
redefined in fashion collection.
Folklore and ceremony provide a wealth of information that can
inform fabric design-such as tartan, Ikat embroidery, paisley,
prints and jacquards- as well as jewellery, footwear and
accessories.
Two such a examples are kenzo and dries van noten. Kenzo
has championed the multicultural narrative, placing Russian
floral prints
DESIGNERS
11. Political Influence
Fashion reflect society and designer will often
reference political change in their collections.
Messages through the clothes that we wear
can be subversive or can be a bold statement
to create a reaction.
Katharine Hamnett famously did this when
she invited the slogan T-shirt in the 1980s.
These now iconic T-shirt were basic white
with large, bold black lettering featuring socio-
political messages such as anti war
statements. She intended for her slogan to be
copied and read by people all over the world.
Hamnett has now moved on to the global
problem of ethics in the fashion
manufacturing process, she is one of the
designers responsible for introducing organic
cotton to the masses.
DESIGNERS
12. Archivism
In a fashion context, Archivism refers to the way in
which designer look back to previous collection for
inspiration. In particular, the original aesthetic of a
well-established label may be revisited decade later,
with collection referencing the same design
influences and detailing.
For example, Italian nobleman Emilio Pucci was
popular throughout the 1960s(and again during
1980s) for his use of wild, colourful patterns taken
from renaissance paintings, filigree, feathers,
animals, stained glass windows and ceramic tiles.
He designed simple belted dresses, bodysuits, boat
neck, tops and pants in silk jersey.
These iconic, bold prints continue to be referenced
today, with creative director such as Matthew
Williamson bringing the label up to date for the
modern consumer.
DESIGNERS
14. Collection
Case Study
As a designer my way of thinking is that the collection should be wearable
or not but that must have a long journey of thought process. I make a
capsule collection. My client is hypothetical. I doesn’t focus on client
because it bound my idea generation, so I came up with the creation
which I feel on Geometry
15.
16. Research & Development
I start from our college library for research our library that cater for fashion and textile courses, offering a variety of costume history
, craft techniques ,fashion & textile books . Look out to far ,for new and vintage magazine (vogue ,apparel online etc.) and
newspaper clipping . The internet is also a huge resources for research and images. Some designer arrange their inspiration and
research ideas on wall, assembling visual pathway through interesting connection and the juxtaposition of image , fabric sample,
and sketches . Other designer develop research book and sketches book s that reflect the thought process behind the project
from start to finish.
However, a designer choose to work , the most of ingredient remain same : all research should have include fabric , color palette
,texture, patterns, as well as found photos,& some little data.
The subsequent pages as my research book which help me for further design.
Designer are constantly seeking and collecting new ideas and sources
of inspiration. Good designer need enquiring minds in order to
continually produce fresh.
Research is that part which took you on right track and build up your
imagination power to create something new. First of all the designer
would have awareness to her working subject, that what has been
past, what going on ,which come from research designer develop an
identity through the way they collect and process research that should
became second nature over time. Many interesting starting point for
design can be found through the going on investigation every newly
found piece of knowledge feeds the imagination and bring up new
question and pathway to follow.
17. Inspiration Geometry
As a designer I work on a project for my project the thing which attracted me most is geometry.
Geometry is not only that part shape, size, line, etc. Which we study in childhood. Geometry can
seen around all around us whether it is natural or manmade things. It exist every where.
Geometry derived from Greek word meaning “earth measurement” .It is one of the oldest science.
It was first formally organized by the Greek mathematician ECULID around 300 B.C. He came up
with 13 books ,titled” element’. This how ever, was not the first time geometry has been utilized .
as a matter of fact, there exists evidence to believe that geometry dates all the3 way back to
3000 B.C. In ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt . Egyptian began using their knowledge to construct
pyramid with four triangular face and a square base. The things around us all follow the rules of
geometry, some are visible and some are unseen. during research I study about some interesting
parts of geometry.
Sacred geometry involves sacred universal pattern used in the design of every thing in reality.
Most often seen in sacred architecture and sacred art. The basic belief is that geometry and
mathematical ratio, harmonics & proportion Are also found in music, light, cosmology.
The golden ratio, which is equal to approximately 1.618. it is the ratio of two no. of Fibonacci
series which add upon to give next no. 0,1,1,2,3,5,8,13,34.
Some of greatest mathematical minds of all ages from Pythagoras, Euclid in ancient Greek ,
Leonard Fibonacci have spent endless hours over this simple ratio and its properties. Golden ratio
follow from pre historical time period.
• The Parthenon are alleged to exhibit the golden ratio.
• Vitruvius men painting suggest the relationship to the golden ratio.
• The golden ratio is commonly used in every day design ex. Books design, postcard, playing
card, photography & buildings (with proportion) etc.
18. Inspiration Geometry
Islamic Geometry
Geometric patterns occur in a variety of forms in Islamic art
and architecture including kilimcarpets, Persian girih
and Moroccan zellige tilework, muqarnas decorative
vaulting, jali pierced stone screens, ceramics, leather,
stained glass, woodwork, and metalwork.
The earliest geometrical forms in Islamic art were
occasional isolated geometric shapes such as 8-pointed
stars and lozenges containing squares. These date from
836 in the Great Mosque of Kairouan, Tunisia, and since
then have spread all across the Islamic world.
Fractal Geometry
Fractal Geometry is define as a “rough or Fragment
Geometric Shape that can be split into parts, each of
which is (at least Approximately) A reduced –size Copy of
the whole ,”according to their discoverer” Benoit
Mandelbrot ( 20, Nov. 1924 – 14, Oct. 2010)
In plain English this means that something is “self- similar,
"or at least generally liked Zoom in/ out iteration of itself
Jaali work
Moroccan zellige or
girih work
Benoit Mendelbrot Research
20. Concept
CONCEPTUAL INFLUENCE
The origins of contemporary, conceptual fashion may well be credited to the
Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
For decades, these designers have been producing the most intriguing,
provocative fashion by creating new ways of cutting and construction.
Conceptual collections are often beautiful, timeless and dislocated from most
visual narratives. However, they can also be too challenging, abstract or
unrelenting in identity, diminishing their influences on fashion trends.
Designers Hussein Chalayan, Helmut. Jil sander are all known for a
minimalist, exacting aesthetic, which owes much to the rigors and precision
of innovative architecture and reductive product design.
There is usually little or no decoration to obscure the essence of the
proportion, cut, finish or quality of fabric used. Beauty derives from the
garments’ core components and construction.
After research I came to that conclusion that geometry were seen all around us whether it is natural or man-made. I also
study about the collection & its influence. I came up with the idea which I feel on geometry with the concept of conceptual
influence.
DESIGNERS
Hussein Chalayan
29. MOOD
Pink suggests romance. Pink is white
added to red in varying amount and is
the lightened vale of red. Like red, pink
arouses interest and excitement, but in a
softer, quitter way. To arouses interest
and excitement in my creation I
combined pink with white.
ROMANTIC
30. Final outfit
Inspiration : Geometry
Concept : Conceptual influence
Technique : Origami
Material : Lycra, Organdy.
While before design I pay attention to
elements and principle of design. I play with
two different texture; one Lycra (smooth) &
another are organdy (rough) and try to
create a romantic look with the help of the
art of origami.
32. MOOD
TRANQUILITY
White is not merely the absence
of colour , but also a hue that
designate purity, innocence, and
the class. It is hopeful,
suggesting, goodness and truth.
For my sculpture creation I use
white for the purity and
ageless.
33. Final Outfit
Inspiration : Geometry
Concept : Conceptual influence
Material : Lycra,
While for this sculpture creation. I pay
attention to elements and principle of
design. I play with proportion and try
to create new silhouette with 4 way
viscous Lycra.
35. MOOD
PROFFESIONAL
In the world if business professional , colour
is evaluated with scrutiny. In fashion, the
word “professional” has come to mean grey
and tonal black because these colors lack
personal characteristics and are truly
neutral.
While I use neutral white with black to give
professional platform to my creation of
folding art.
36. Final outfit
Inspiration : Geometry
Concept : Conceptual influence
Technique : paper folding art
Material : blended cotton.
This is a bamboo paper folding art.
Which I use for the upper garment.
The Fabric is blend cotton with a
stripe pattern, it is easy to convey the
way of folding through the stripe
pattern rather than plain color fabric.