This document discusses ingredients used in cosmetics as antioxidants, free radical scavengers, antiseptics, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, and anti-wrinkle agents. It provides information on common antioxidant ingredients like vitamins C and E, polyphenols, and thiols. It also discusses various antiseptic, antibacterial, and antifungal ingredients used as preservatives in cosmetics like parabens, isothiazolinones, and phenoxyethanol. Finally, it covers anti-wrinkle agents such as retinol, vitamin C, hydroxy acids, coenzyme Q10, and niacinamide.

1. Ingredients used in Cosmetics as
Antioxidants, Free-radical Scavengers,
Antiseptic, Antibacterial,
Anti-wrinkle, Anti-fungal Agents
VIKHYATI PATEL
15MCT111
SEMESTER II
ADVANCED SKIN CARE COSMETICS
C.E. I SUBMISSION

2. CONTENTS
• INTRODUCTION
• TYPES OF COSMETICS
• ANTIOXIDANTS AND FREE-RADICAL SCAVENGERS
• ANTISEPTIC AGENTS
• ANTIBACTERIAL AND ANTIFUNGAL AGENTS
• ANTIWRINKLE AGENTS
2

3. INTRODUCTION
• USFDA defines cosmetics as “anything intended to be applied to the human body
for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
without affecting the body's structure or functions.”
• The word cosmetics derives from the Greek word meaning "technique of dress
and ornament"
3https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetics

4. TYPES OF COSMETICS
4http://www.bidnessetc.com/subindustry/cosmetic/overview/

5. ANTIOXIDANTS AND FREE RADICAL
SCAVENGERS
5
• An antioxidant is a molecule that inhibits the oxidation of other molecules.
• Oxidation is a chemical reaction that can produce free radicals, leading to chain
reactions that may damage cells.
• Antioxidants are found in many foods, including fruits and vegetables. They are also
available as dietary supplements.
• FREE RADICAL: A free radical is an atom, molecule, or compound that is highly
reactive as it attempts to pair up with other molecules, atoms, or even individual
electrons to create a stable compound. Any element that has an unpaired electron in its
outermost shell is considered to possess a "free radical“. It is an atom that has lost an
electron and is left with an unpaired electron. Free radicals are highly reactive and can
cause damage to molecules in the cell.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant

6. 6
Radicals and ROS:
• ROS are main source of oxidative damage
• Oxidative stress in one the major reason for many degenerative
diseases
• Generate structural changes in DNA
• Decrease DNA repair by damaging essential proteins
• Ultimately can cause cancer

7. MECHANISM
7
• Antioxidants are capable of reducing the causes or effects of oxidative stress .
• Oxidative stress can be caused by environmental factors, disease, infection,
inflammation, aging (ROS production) .
• In turn, these radicals can start chain reactions. When the chain reaction occurs in a
cell, it can cause damage or death to the cell
• Antioxidants terminate these chain reactions by removing free radical intermediates,
and inhibit other oxidation reactions. They do this by being oxidized themselves, so
antioxidants are often reducing agents such as thiols, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), or
polyphenols.

8. CLASSIFICATION OF ANTIOXIDANTS
8

9. 9
• Supplements that are marketed as having antioxidant activity include:
-vitamin A (usually as beta-carotene),
-vitamin C and E (ACE vitamins, often with selenium)
- alpha-lipoic acid
-carnitine
-carotenoids
-coenzyme Q
-green tea extract
-zinc.

10. I. VITAMIN E
10
• It is the major lipophilic antioxidant in skin, and it is the most commonly used natural
antioxidant in topical formulations.
• It is found in all parts of the skin, the dermis and epidermis as well as in the stratum
corneum (SC), and is believed to play an essential role in the protection of biomolecules
from oxidative stress.
• Delivery of vitamin E to the SC occurs in two different mode.:
1) On the one hand, it is stored into differentiating keratinocytes and moves up into the
newly formed SC, which leads to a gradient-type distribution of a-tocopherol with
decreasing concentrations toward the skin surface
2) On the other hand, vitamin E is secreted by
sebaceous gland reaches the SC from the outside.
In sebaceous gland-rich regions such as the face,
this delivery mechanism is responsible for the enrichment
of the outer SC with vitamin E .
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2040110/

11. 11
SOURCES:
The best way to get the daily requirement of vitamin E is
by eating food sources. Vitamin E is found in the following
foods:
i. Vegetable oils (such as wheat germ, sunflower,
safflower, corn, and soybean oils)
ii. Nuts (such as almonds, peanuts, and hazelnuts/filberts)
iii. Seeds (such as sunflower seeds)
iv. Green leafy vegetables (such as spinach and broccoli)
v. Fortified breakfast cereals, fruit juices, margarine, and
spreads. Fortified means that vitamins have been added
to the food. Check the Nutrition Fact Panel on the food
label.
vi. Products made from these foods, such as margarine,
also contain vitamin E.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2040110/

12. II. VITAMIN C
12
• Vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid, or simply ascorbate.
• Ascorbic acid is an essential to maintain connective tissue and bone.
• Its biologically active form, vitamin C, functions as a reducing agent and coenzyme in
several metabolic pathways. Vitamin C is considered an antioxidant.
• Ascorbic acid can scavenge many types of radicals, including the hydroxyl (OH.), the
superoxide (O 2), and water-soluble peroxyl (ROO.) radicals as well as other reactive
oxygen species such as O3, and quenches singlet O2.
• In the skin, vitamin C is found in all layers. Vitamin C is depleted by O3, And UV
radiation.
• One of the earliest discoveries of vitamin C benefits in the skin was the observation that
it stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts .
• Also, vitamin C is essential in the formation of competent barrier
lipids in reconstructed human epidermis .
• Systemic application of vitamin C in combination with vitamin
E protected against UV-induced erythema in humans .

13. 13http://www.top10homeremedies.com/kitchen-ingredients/10-best-natural-sources-of-vitamin-c.html

14. III. POLYPHENOLS
14
• Polyphenols are a structural class of mainly natural, but also synthetic
or semisynthetic, organic chemicals characterized by the presence of
large multiples of phenol structural units.
• The number and characteristics of these phenol structures underlie the
unique physical, chemical, and biological (metabolic, toxic,
therapeutic, etc.) properties of particular members of the class.
• Examples include tannic acid , and ellagitannin .
• The “deactivation” of oxidant species by polyphenolic antioxidants
(POH) is based, with regard to systems that are deteriorated by
peroxyl radicals (R•), on the donation of hydrogen, which interrupts
chain reactions:
R• + PhOH → R-H + PhO•

15. 15

16. SOURCES
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• Blueberry
• Coffee, Filtered Sweet Cherry
• Strawberry Blackberry Plum red Raspberry
• Flaxseed Meal
• Dark Chocolate
• Chestnut
• Black tea, green Tea
• Pure Apple Juice And Apple
• Hazelnut
• Red Wine
• Soy Yogurt
• Cocoa Powder
• Pure Pomegranate Juice
• Black Olive

17. IV. THIOLS
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• Thiols are the sulfur analogue of alcohols
• Glutathione (GSH) is a tripeptide whose SH group at the
cysteine can be oxidized, forming a disulfide oxidized
glutathione with another GSH molecule.
• Physiologically, more than 90% of the GSH is in the reduced
form.
• Glutathione peroxidases use GSH oxidation to reduce H2O2
and other water soluble peroxides.
• The synthesis of GSH by the human cell is stimulated by N-
acetyl-cysteine (NAC), which is hydrolyzed to cysteine
intracellularly. Moreover, NAC acts as an antioxidant itself.
• General drawback in the use of thiols in skin applications are
the typical smell and the poor solubility in aqueous solutions
below pH 7.
• Yet, several thiol agents have been tested for protective effects
in the skin. For oral as well as topical application in mouse
models.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiol

18. SOURCES
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• Asparagus
• Bakery products containing whey, cysteine, eggs .
• Bean
• Curd/tofu milk
• Broccoli, spinach, turmeric (though not high in thiols, it is really
good at raising thiol levels)
• Yeast extract ,cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chocolate, coffee cheese of all sorts
• Dairy products
• Eggs
• Garlic
• Green beans
• Mustard onions

19. 19

20. ANTISEPTIC AGENTS
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An antiseptic is a substance which inhibits the growth and development of microorganisms.
Antiseptics are routinely thought of as topical agents, for application to skin, mucous
membranes, and inanimate objects,although a formal definition includes agents which are used
internally, such as the urinary tract antiseptics.
• Commonly used antiseptics for skin cleaning include benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine,
hexachlorophine, iodine compounds, mercury compounds, alcohol and hydrogen peroxide.
Other agents which have been used for this purpose, but have largely been supplanted by
more effective or safer agents, include boric acid and volatile oils such as methyl salicylate
(oil of wintergreen.)
http://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/antiseptics

21. 21
• Chlorhexidine shows a high margin of safety when applied to mucous membranes, and has
been used in oral rinses and preoperative total body washes.
• Benzalkonium chloride and hexachlorophine are used primarily as hand scrubs or face
washes.
• Iodine compounds include tincture of iodine and povidone iodine compounds. Iodine
tincture is highly effective, but its alcoholic component is drying and extremely irritating
when applied to abraided (scraped or rubbed) skin. Povidone iodine, an organic compound,
is less irritating and less toxic, but not as effective. Povidone iodine has been used for hand
scrubs.
• Hydrogen peroxide acts through the liberation of oxygen gas. Although the antibacterial
activity of hydrogen peroxide is relatively weak, the liberation of oxygen bubbles produces
an effervescent action, which may be useful for wound cleansing through removal of tissue
debris.
• Thimerosol (Mersol) is a mercury compound with activity against bacteria and yeasts.
Prolonged use may result in mercury toxicity.
http://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/antiseptics

22. 22http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/rr5116a2.htm

23. 23
ANTIMICROBIALAND ANTIFUNGALAGENTS
• Cosmetic and beauty products are made up of ingredients that are
biodegradable, and this means that microbes can easily break them down. This
causes a product to become unpleasant and unsafe for consumers with an added
antimicrobial.
• Preservatives are antimicrobial ingredients added to product formulations to
maintain the microbiological safety of the products by inhibiting the growth of
and reducing the amount of microbial contaminants.
• Preservatives are added to aqueous products to prevent spoilage, that is, to
prolong the shelf life of the product, and to protect the consumer from the
possibility of infection.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimicrobial

24. PARABENS
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• Examples
-Germaben II
-Methylparben
-Propylparaben
-Butylparaben
• Economical
• Most widely used group of preservatives
• Effective for fungal protection and some gram positive bacteria
• Must be combined with others for gram negative protection
• Allowed for both rinse-off and leave-on products
• It was concluded they were safe for use in cosmetic products at levels up to 25% and
PH 7. Typically parabens are used at levels ranging from 0.01 to 0.3%.
http://cosmetictestlabs.com/five_most_common_types_of_preservatives_used_in_cosmetics.html

25. 25
Isothiazolinones
• Examples-Kathon
• Broad spectrum effectiveness
• Best for Rinse – off products
• Effective over the entire pH range normally encountered in
cosmetics
• Toxicological data has shown them to be non-carcinogenic
• May cause skin irritation for some consumers

26. 26
FORMALDAHYDE RELEASERS
• Examples:
-Germall Plus
-DMDM Hydantoin (1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin Glydant)
-Imadozolidinyl Urea
-Diazolidinyl Urea
• Effective for bacteria, weak fungal efficacy
• Releases formaldehyde as needed so maintains low levels
• The use of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives ensures that the actual
level of free formaldehyde in the products is always very low, yet sufficient to ensure
microbial inhibition.

27. 27
PHENOXYETHANOL
• Examples
-Optiphen, Optiphen Plus (contains phenoxyethanol combined with others for broad spectrum
protection)
• Often considered a "milder alternative" to traditional preservatives
• Not broad spectrum (by itself)– often combined with caprylyl glycol, sorbic acid / potassium
sorbate or EDTA to create broad spectrum efficacy.
• Good bacterial efficacy, best against gram negative bacteria
• Very stable, not pH dependent
• Allowed in most areas up to 1%, though found to be non-irritating or sensitizing up to 2.2%
• Concerns of carcinogenic activity

28. 28
ORGANIC ACIDS
• Examples
-Benzoic Acid / Sodium Benzoate
-Sorbic Acid / Potassium sorbate
-Levulinic Acid
-Anisic Acid
• Higher use levels to be effective leading to higher costs .
• Aqueous base required.
• Effective against most fungi with weak efficacy against bacteria.
• Often combined with other organic acids or diazolidinyl urea (DU) for broad spectrum
effectiveness .
• Considered to be “natural alternatives” though they are often made synthetically .
• Precipitate in high water content and become no longer active.
• Require pH 2-6 .

29. 29http://www.dcskinsolution.com/anti-aging/

30. 30

31. ANTI-WRINKLE AGENTS
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• Retinol: Retinol is a vitamin A compound, the first antioxidant to be widely used in non-
prescription wrinkle creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals
unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles.
• Vitamin C: Another potent antioxidant, vitamin C may help protect skin from sun
damage. Before and between uses, wrinkle creams containing vitamin C must be stored in
a way that protects them from air and sunlight.
• Hydroxy acids: Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are
exfoliants- substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the
growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin.
• Coenzyme Q10: This ingredient may help reduce fine wrinkles around the eyes and
protect the skin from sun damage.
• Niacinamide: A potent antioxidant, this substance is related to Vitamin B-3 (niacin). It
helps reduce water loss in the skin and may improve skin elasticity.
http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/wrinkles/in-depth/wrinkle-creams/art-20047463?pg=1

32. THANKYOU!
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