Survey of future 3D design tech in fashion & clothing industry

VTT 2018 1
Survey of Future 3D
Design Tech in Fashion
& Clothing Industry
Summary of the survey results

2VTT 2018
• The 3D design technology in fashion and clothing industry survey was planned, formed
and organized as part of the DICI project in collaboration between VTT Technical
Research of Finland and NOMO Technologies Ltd (NOMO 3D).
• A primary goal of the questionnaire was to collect data from professionals in clothing and
textile industry in order to study utilization and needs related to 3D design technologies.
• Technology companies can utilize the results when planning 3D design technology
initiatives for fashion and clothing industry.
• An online questionnaire was open one month (from May 31st to June 30th 2018) and 67
professionals from the apparel sector responded to the questionnaire.
• The questionnaire consisted of three main themes:
• Background information
• Utilization of digital solutions
• Digital tools and future of clothing and textile industry
• This document presents the summary of survey results.
Background

3VTT 2018
What does your company do?
28,4 %
19,4 %
11,9 %
0,0 %
11,9 %
28,4 %
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
Clothing
manufacturer
Fashion brand
(that outsources
the production)
Bespoke service
firm
Retailer (that also
provides tailor
services)
Freelancer
(clothing designer
for example)
Other, please
specify:
N=67
Other options include e.g.:
• Clothing buyer
• Education
• Alteration and repair services
• Fashion design in a game industry
(19/67)
(13/67)
(8/67)
(0/67)
(8/67)
(19/67)

4VTT 2018
What size is your company?
52,2 %
19,4 %
9,0 %
19,4 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
Micro size (from 1 to 9
employee)
Small size (from 10 to 49
employee)
Medium size (from 50 to 249
employee)
Large size (more than 249
employee)
N=67
(35/67)
(13/67)
(6/67)
(13/67)
Three most represented
professions by respondents:
• Fashion designer (34.3 %)
• Pattern maker (26.9 %)
• Garment technologist (23.9 %)

5VTT 2018
If you work with measurements, do you work with…
Multiple choice question
(113 selections in total)
46,3 %
53,7 %
56,7 %
11,9 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
Actual body
measurements
Standard size chart (for
example ISO, Passeli, ...)
Company-owned size
chart
Other, please specify:
N=67
(31/67)
(36/67)
(38/67)
(8/67)

6VTT 2018
How often is your size chart updated?
15,8 %
31,6 %
13,2 %
7,9 %
13,2 %
18,4 %
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
Annually Every 3-5 years Less frequently
than every five
years
Not updated at
all
I don't know Other, please
specify:
N=38
Criteria: "Company-owned size chart selected" in earlier question (N=38)
(6/38)
(12/38)
(5/38)
(3/38)
(5/38)
(7/38)

7VTT 2018
Do you use different sizing for different collections or brands or target groups?
Criteria: "Company-owned size chart" or "Standard size chart" selected in the earlier question (Number of those respondents is
53; 14 respondents (~20,9%) did not use those charts at all).
67,9 %
32,1 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
Yes No
N=53
(36/53)
(17/53)

• The following factors were especially highlighted in terms of sizing related differentiation.
1. Business and marketing related factors:
• Market area
• Brands
• Fashion trends
• Garment types
2. Human related factors:
• Gender
• Age
• Body types/shapes
8VTT 2018
How different sizing differ from each other?
Criteria: Response in a previous question "Yes" question (N=36).
“The trendier collection has more length, and hips and waist narrower than the in the
corresponding collection for older ladies. The size of the table comes from the collection's brand.”
“[Different sizing] for Europe, China and India customers.”
“The ranges are different for different target groups.“

9VTT 2018
In order to create a good size chart for collection and garment, what information would be important?
Criteria: "Company-owned size chart" or "Standard size chart" selected in the earlier question (Number of those respondents is
53; 14 respondents (~20,9%) did not use those charts at all.
• The following factors were especially highlighted in terms of important information for
creating a good size chart.
• Body measurements
• Body type/shape
• Properties of a garment material
• Knowledge about the target group
• Body composition; muscular body vs. non-muscular body with more adipose tissue
• Naturally a needed amount of measurements varies highly between different garment
types, e.g. coat vs. t-shirt.

10VTT 2018
Which of the following ways of taking body measurements have you experienced in a work context?
95,5 %
17,9 %
11,9 %
6,0 %
1,5 %
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
100%
120%
Traditional tape measure 3D body scanner Scanning applications
that integrated in your
mobile phone
I don't take body
measurements
N=67
(64/67)
(12/67)
(8/67)
(4/67)
(1/67)

11VTT 2018
What is the average time in minutes to manually take body measurements for the following garments?
Criteria: "Traditional tape measure" selected in the earlier question (N=64)
10,0
7,8
9,5 9,3
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
Jacket Trousers Dress Shirt
Minutes
Total avg. time (min)
Garment Total avg. time (min) I don't know N
Jacket 10,0 25 39
Trousers 7,8 23 41
Dress 9,5 26 38
Shirt 9,3 26 38

12VTT 2018
How many body measurements are needed for the following garments?
Criteria: "Traditional tape measure" selected in the earlier question (N=64)
Garment Avg. body measurement times I don't know N
Jacket 11,6 16 48
Trousers 7,1 16 48
Dress 10,8 19 45
Shirt 9,8 18 46
11,6
7,1
10,8
9,8
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
Jacket Trousers Dress Shirt
Measurementtimes
Avg. body measurement times

13VTT 2018
What are the most difficult body parts to measure correctly? Choose all options that are applicable.
Other option include e.g.:
• Width of a back
• Height of a waist measured from a shoulder, when a
big sized person
(90 selections in total)Criteria: "Traditional tape measure" selected in the earlier question (N=64)
31,3 %
14,1 %
7,8 %
18,8 %
32,8 %
6,3 %
3,1 %
20,3 %
6,3 %
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
N=64
(20/64)
(9/64)
(5/64)
(12/64)
(21/64)
(4/64)
(2/64)
(13/64)
(4/64)

14VTT 2018
What can be done to minimize unnecessary alteration for a ready-made garment?
• The following factors were highlighted in order to minimize unnecessary
alteration.
• Good base work (preparation)
• More body measurements / minimizing errors
• Good patterns
• Meticulousness in a work
• Good communication and instructions (e.g. between design and pattern
making)
“Measures taken more carefully.”
“Understanding customer preferences.”
“Good spec sheets/ explanations for factory, reference images for fit and styling details, detailed drawings.”
“Good communication between the designer and the planner.”

15VTT 2018
What is the acceptable tolerance (measurement accuracy) of body measurements, in your opinion? Which
of the following options indicate tolerance for measurement of 1,000 mm?
0,0 %
22,4 %
35,8 %
17,9 %
16,4 %
7,5 %
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
+0.0 mm +2.0 mm +5.0 mm +10.00 mm I don't know Other, please
specify:
N=67
• Depends on a product/model/material
(0/67)
(15/67)
(24/67)
(12/67)
(11/67)
(5/67)

16VTT 2018
Which of the following systems have you used in the process of producing garments?
80,6 %
46,3 %
20,9 %
11,9 %
9,0 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
Traditional/manual
pattern making/garment
designing (with papers
and pens/pencils)
2D system for pattern
making/garment
designing
3D system for pattern
making/garment
designing
I don't use above
systems in my work.
N=67
(54/67)
(31/67)
(14/67)
(8/67)
(6/67)

17VTT 2018
What are benefits and challenges of traditional systems?
Criteria: "Traditional systems" selected in the earlier question (N=54)
• The following factors were highlighted as benefits and challenges regarding traditional systems:
• Benefits:
• Supports creativity
• Trustful
• Low cost
• Ease to use, fast (individual perspective)
• Challenges:
• Error sensitivity
• Time-consuming (process perspective)
• Storing/archiving patterns
“Fastness, best way to make quick sketches and sketch notes.”
“Familiar experience, but good 3D perception skills are needed…slow”
“You can physically see the pattern, put it on the stand. It's more convenient for beginners.”
“Benefits - it is well known, with old traditions, feels more trustful. Challenges - human factor mistakes, time consuming.”
“The challenges of digitization afterwards.”
“Touch and creative feeling. It arises by using a pen and paper in a hand. It can be different from the screen, in my opinion.”
” In any case, files must be on a computer to be used in a production.”
”When the computer is not a continuous tool, it is faster to work with pen and paper.”
“Challenges are interpretation of sketches, as designers often like to make them look life-like, however for a pattern cutting they are better
really flat, no wrinkles and folds etc.”

18VTT 2018
What are benefits and challenges of 2D systems?
Criteria: "2D systems" selected in the earlier question (N=31).
• The following factors were highlighted as benefits and challenges regarding 2D systems:
• Benefits:
• Ease of use (e.g. grading)
• Speed
• Capacity for modifications
• Challenges:
• Requires training and/or good perceptive skills in 3D
• Human body and garments are 3-dimensional → 2-dimensional layout gives a limited presentation
“Work gets easier / faster. you can see the results of the job faster”
"Fast and efficient, replicable.“
”Fast, exact information remains, adaptation of a pattern.”
“Speed, easy to repair and experiment with different options, when having good manual skills.”
“Shape is difficult for untrained eye to see”
“…fluent interpretation requires long experience or a special perception skills in 3D.”
"People are three-dimensional, live and mobile, numbers and front-back do not tell everything."

19VTT 2018
What are benefits and challenges of 3D systems?
Criteria: “3D systems" selected in the earlier question (N=14).
• The following factors were highlighted as benefits and challenges regarding 3D systems:
• Benefits:
• 3-dimensional representation of a final outcome
• Speed
• Eases prototyping
• Challenges:
• Requires training
• 3D fitting issues
”Editing of 3D fit model is difficult and model’s position can go wrong giving a wrong image about a fit.”
”Taking measures with scanners save time and it is always possible to go back and check the customer’s avatar. Scanners enable
taking measurements that are impossible to take manually.”
”Fast iterations are definitely the plus.”
” Easy to understand the final look of a garment.”
“As a challenge, garment simulation and testing of functionality over a digital character“
”A new software must be learn, it gets old and there is a need for updates.”

20VTT 2018
How do you fit garment samples in a production process?
Criteria: "3D systems, 2D systems, traditional systems or Other" selected in the earlier question (N=62)
96,8 %
48,4 %
6,5 %
0,0 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
On actual human body On tailor’s dummy 3D body model Other, please specify:
N=62(60/62)
(30/62)
(4/62)
(0/62)

21VTT 2018
If you were provided with 3D body models of your customer or fit model, would this information be
useful for your job?
61,2 %
6,0 %
32,8 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
Yes No I don't know
N=67
(41/67)
(4/67)
(22/67)

22VTT 2018
If you were provided with body measurements from your customer's or fit model’s 3D model, would these
digital measurements be useful in your job?
62,7 %
7,5 %
29,9 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
Yes No I don't know
N=67
(42/67)
(5/67)
(20/67)

23VTT 2018
If you were provided with precise measurements of certain body surface area, which you can’t measure or
it is time consuming to measure in traditional way, for example, bust/chest volume or measurements of
the buttock shape (especially on curvy or muscular body), would this information be useful for your job?
59,7 %
10,4 %
29,9 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
Yes No I don't know
N=67
(40/67)
(7/67)
(20/67)

24VTT 2018
Where would you use 3D body models?
Criteria: "Yes" selected in the previous question (N=41)
The fitting and grading were especially highlighted when utilizing 3D body models.
Where would you use digital measurements?
Comparing/checking measures were especially highlighted when utilizing digital measurements.
Where would you use precise measurements of a certain body surface area?
Better garment fit and detail placement (e.g. position of a pocket) were especially highlighted when utilizing
precise measurements of a certain body surface area.

25VTT 2018
Which of the following software tools have you used in a garments production process?
67,2 %
10,4 %
4,5 % 3,0 %
20,9 %
16,4 %
28,4 %
3,0 %
14,9 %
17,9 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
ADOBE
ILLUSTRATOR
CLO 3D &
MARVELOUS
DESIGNER
V-STITCHER LOTTA GRAFIS® CAD
SOFTWARE
VERSION 12
GERBER LECTRA OPTITEX I have not used
any programs
Other, please
specify:
N=67
(45/67)
(7/67)
(3/67) (2/67)
(14/67)
(11/67)
(19/67)
(2/67)
(10/67) (12/67)

26VTT 2018
Where do you use above systems in garment production process?
61,4 %
47,4 %
15,8 %
26,3 %
52,6 %
8,8 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
Sketch/Design Patterns Garment fittings Lay plans Production
instruction
Other, please
specify:
N=57
Criteria: Some of the available program options selected in the earlier question (N=57)
(35/57)
(27/57)
(9/57)
(15/57)
(30/57)
(5/57)

27VTT 2018
86,6 %
3,0 %
10,4 %
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Yes No I don't know
N=67
Would you be interested in to design clothes in the future by using 3D software tools, which enable
designing clothes directly into the 3D scanned body model?
(58/67)
(2/67)
(7/67)

28VTT 2018
 Over half of survey respondents represented micro-size companies.
 A minority of professionals have used 3D body scanners (17.9 %) or mobile scanning applications (11.9 %) in
their work.
 Most professionals saw 3D body models (61.2 %), digital body measurements (62.7 %) and precise
measurements of a certain body surface area (59.7 %) as useful for their work. Only a small minority of
respondents did not see them useful and less than one third of respondents were not able to say whether they
would be useful or not for their work.
 Measurement and sizing related requirements (e.g. accuracy) vary based on human and business related factors.
 Requirements for updating size charts varies clearly based on the targets of use.
 About one fifth (20.9 %) of professionals have used 3D systems for pattern making or garment designing.
 Professionals commonly used software tools in a garment production process. Most commonly used tools were
used for making sketch/design, patterns and production instruction.
 A clear minority of professionals (6.5 %) have fit garment samples on a 3D model in a garment production
process.
 A large majority of professionals (86.6%) were interested in to use 3D SW tools, which would enable designing
clothes directly into the 3D scanned body model. Only 3 % of respondents were not interested in to use these
tools in the future.
 The most highlighted potential future benefits of emerging 3D technologies were more effective processes (incl. a
reduced need for a traditional sample making) and the ability to provide more personalized products with a better
fit for customers.
Brief summary

29VTT 2018
 There is a clear interest to utilize 3D based solutions in the future by apparel industry professionals. However, a further
development is still needed in many areas; e.g. improving ease of use of applications. That requires a close collaboration
between domain and technology experts.
 Many apparel companies in Finland are micro-size companies or SMEs, which does not have a financial opportunities to
invest expensive and large 3D systems. Thus, there is a need for diverse 3D solutions by different types of companies.
 Emerging digital solutions regarding 3D body models and human body measurements are seen as useful by
professionals and these solutions can support their work in many ways in the future.
 Emerging Industry 4.0 trend presents new models of operation to the whole industry (see e.g. Bellemare, 2018) and at the
same time requires new digital competences from professionals (Wang & Ha-Brookshire, 2018).
 New technologies (e.g. 3D technologies) will change traditional roles of designers, makers and users, and enable new
business models (Sun & Zhao, 2018) e.g. through the apparel customization and collaborative design (Wang et al., 2018).
 Advancements in 3D modeling and digital costume design in a game industry provides opportunities also for the apparel
industry (Makryniotis, 2018).
Future insights
References:
Bellemare, J. (2018). Fashion Apparel Industry 4.0 and Smart Mass Customization Approach for Clothing Product Design. In Customization 4.0 (pp. 619-633). Springer, Cham.
Makryniotis, T. (2018). Fashion and Costume Design in Electronic Entertainment—Bridging the Gap between Character and Fashion Design. Fashion Practice, 10(1), 99-118.
Sun, L., & Zhao, L. (2018). Technology disruptions: exploring the changing roles of designers, makers, and users in the fashion industry. International Journal of Fashion Design,
Technology and Education, 1-13.
Wang, B., & Ha-Brookshire, J. E. (2018). Exploration of Digital Competency Requirements within the Fashion Supply Chain with an Anticipation of Industry 4.0. International Journal of
Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 1-10.
Wang, L., Shen, B., & Liu, X. (2017). The Value of Design Collaboration in the Fashion Business: A Literature Review. The Design Journal, 20(6), 795-820.

VTT 2018 30
For more information please contact
Satu-Marja Mäkelä
Senior Scientist, Project Manager
VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland
Email: satu-marja.makela@vtt.fi
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Survey of future 3D design tech in fashion & clothing industry

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