2. OBJECTIVE
To understand the concept of spun yarn
production, grey fabric production, dyeing,
printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing
and their quality aspects for both technical as
well as for commercial purposes.
3. Estb. 1925
FIRST POLY-WOOL BLEND in India
(1959)
MNFD. WOOL/ WOOL BLENDS
STARTED MNFG. JEANS, SHIRTS
TOTAL TEXTILE SOLUTIONS
4. ChairmanandManagingdirector
oftheRaymondGroup
INTRODUCTON
Raymond Group is an Indian branded fabric and fashion retailer,
incorporated in 1925.
Raymond group is the world's largest producer of worsted suiting
fabric.
Raymond Limited (Textile Division) has more than 60% market share
of the Indian market for worsted suiting fabrics.
. It has launched its ‘Technosmart’, ‘Technostretch’ and
‘Technofresh’ in the Techno-series.
RAYMOND GROUP DIVISONS
TEXTILE
ESP.
WORSTED
SUITING
FABRIC
AVIATION
&
COSMETIC
S
ENGINEERING
FILES &
TOOLS
DENIMS
&
DESIGNER
WEAR
PROPHYLACTIC
&
TOILETRIES
7. VAPI PLANT
ABOUT VAPI PLANT
1. Industrial Area 94.4 acres
2. Residential Area 18 acres
3. Rest forest area
4. digital computer-controlled manufacturing
System
5. Automated warehouse system
6. Well connected by rail and road.
7. Fabric production: 25 million metre/annum
9. DEPARTMENTS
AT
VAPI
DEPARTMENTS
Production Designing Service Quality
Control
Sampling Supply Chain
Management
a. Raw Material
Godown (RMG)
b.GreyCombing
c. Dyeing
d. Recombing
e. Spinning
f. Yarn Room
g. Weaving
h. Mending
i. Finishing
j. Folding
k. Warehouse
a.Human Resource
b. Accounts
c. Commercial
d.Engineering,Civil,
Mechanical,
Electrical,Safety,
Instrumental
e. Store
f. Effluent
Treatment Plant
10. OVERVIEW
PROCESS FLOW
Scouring
• Opening
• Scouring
Grey Combing and
Converter
• Carding
• Gilling
• Combing
• Converter
Top Dyeing
• Dyeing
• Drying
Recombing
• Gilling
• Combing
• Pre-Finisher
and Finisher
Spinning
• Pre spinning
• Ring Frame
• Post Spinning
Yarn Room
Weaving
• Winding
• Warping
• Drawing in
• Weaving
Mending
• Perching
• Mending
Finishing
Folding
• Cutting
• Packing Warehouse
16. 2.WOOL
SCOURING
Wool Scouring is the
process of washing
raw wool in an
alkaline solution
(Esteem AJ 80-48) or
detergent
. It is done to remove
impurities like mud,
vegetable matter and
grease present in the
raw wool.
100
60
80
0 20 40 60 80 100 120
GREASE
VEGETABLE
MATTER
MUD
Removal of Waste
17. Scouring includes mixing, beating, cleaning, and drying
Feed
Hopper 1
Double
Drum
Opener
Feed
Hopper 2
Wing Belt Bowls6
Drum
Dryer
Stepped
Opener
Washing
and
Rinsing
Drying
18. SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM OF SCOURING MACHINE
1. scouring department capacity -14,000 kg of wool per day
2. Efficiency - 94%.
3. Machine cost- 1.8 cr
4. MACHINE CONSIST OF FOLLWING ACTION–
A.MIXING:- Inclined spiked lattice and roller setup - penetrates the raw wool fibers, opens and transport further.
B. BEATING- cleans the wool and removes the mud
C.. CLEANING -six bowl system – 3 bowl for washing with detergent (ESTEEM 48 – AJ 80) and the last three bowls
are used for rinsing the washed fibers
D. DRYING - 6 drum dryer & 3 drum stepped opener
19. 6 BOWL WASHING
DRYING
1.The wet wool is rotated over a perforated cylinder for its drying action
2. Three varying temperature at three different stages 75c , 80c, 85c
3. The drying wool is sprayed with the mixture of the oils for lubrication to provide antistatic properties b/w fiber- fiber
& fiber – metal.
4. The oils used - Selbena 4554 and Selbana 301IN , added in the ratio of 7:3.
21. GREASE RECOVERY MACHINE
Dirty water from bowls of scouring machines is pumped to Grease Recovery Machine , which is clean in three level .
GREASE
• Grease is recovered in
drums
• Capacity of 180kg
• Used by cosmetic
companies.
MUD
• Sent to decanter
• Purified using chemicals
WATER
RECYCLED
• Sent to ETP
• Water fed back to bowls
DIRTY
WATER
23. 3.GREY
COMBING
PROCESS FLOW OF GREY COMBING
a. The Department has
1.2 carding machines, French manufacturer N.
Schlumberger.
2. 3 gill boxes , N. Schlumberger GN8 machines
3. 10 combers ,
24. CARDING
Carding performs many functions including:
removal of vegetable impurities (like burrs)
gradual opening of wool fibers
Parallel arrangement of fibers as evenly as possible called card sliver.
26. GILLING
The card sliver undergoes three gilling operations that prepare the card sliver for combing. This is done:-
• To remove hooks, align, straighten and blend the fibers
• To improve sliver uniformity (by doubling) so as to reduce fiber breakage and noil during combing
• To reduce any excessive extensibility of the card sliver.
• To ensure less chances of fiber breakage during combing.
Gilling machine consists of:-
• Draw or feed rollers - put uniform tension through the sliver and opens the fibers.
• Detaching or delivery rollers- detaches the short fibers.
• A nozzle -the gilled sliver is lubricated with SelbanaUN to reduce crimp and maintain friction.
28. COMBING
The result is the sliver
consisting of only long
wool fibers parallel to
each other, combed out
noils which are sold to the
carpet industry and are
utilized in making shawls
and blankets
29. After combing, sliver is
sent to top forming
machine. This machine
automatically takes a
fixed weight of sliver,
8.5Kg and convert it
into top which is ready
for dyeing.
TOP FORMATION
30. CONVERTER MACHINE
A Converter machine is
used to cut polyester
tows of continuous
filaments into a sliver of
shorter length. This
process is known as
converting .
Converting cuts the
filaments by passing
them between 2 rollers.
Result is a top formation
of 8.5 kg.
31. DYEING
Wool and polyester cannot
be dyed together as they
have different properties
and affinity to different dyes.
The overall dyeing
process takes about 3-4
hours.
Parameters Wool Polyester
pH 4.5-5 4.5
Temperatur
e
90 0C 1200C
Dye
Metal Complex
Acid Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Disperse Dyes
Time
30 minutes (only dyeing) 15 minutes (only dyeing)
34. Superlab - The Sampling room
It has a dyeing machine which runs
by automated Computer Color
Matching Software (CCM).
The Superlab machine consists of
eight dyers for lab sampling with the
capacity of 20g each.
All the shades are given a Shade No.
and Reference No. along with blend
details on the shade card,
SAMPLING ROOM
37. RADIO FREQUENCY DYEING PROCESS:
Preparation of Dye
Medium
Dyeing and Washing Hydro Extractor Radio Frequency Drier
0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3
EXTRA DARK
DARK
MEDIUM
LIGHT
Color Percentage
PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF COLORS
39. RECOMBING
Recombing means combine or cause to combine
again or differently. Recombing is done when fine
yarns of uniform shade and high quality are to be
made.
DEFELTER BLENDER GILLING 1 GILLING 2
GILLING 3 COMBER PRE FINISHER FINISHER
PROCESS FLOW
51. WEAVING
The weaving is a process of formation of fabric
with interlacement of warp and weft yarns using
a machine called loom.
PROCESS
52. WINDING
Winding is the
process of yarn
transfer to obtain a
larger package from
several small
spinner’s packages.
. There is only one soft
winding machine with
48 heads and 3 SSM
winding machines
with 55 heads at this
unit.
53. Warping is a process by
which long length of
many yarns are winded
on a flanged bobbin to
produce a warp beam.
Warping may be carried
out directly (direct
beaming) or indirectly,
in sections (sectional
warping)
WARPING
54. DRAWING
&
DRAFTING
The warp ends are
passed through the
drop wires and
heddles of the
harness frames and
dents of the reeds
by drawing
process.
This can be
performed either
manually or by
automatic
machines.
MACHINE DRAWING MANUAL DRAWING
55. KNOTTING
It refers to dressing of
old warp sheets over
new warp sheets by
clamp knotting
process. It is done
only for same quality
material. The dressing
of the yarns is done to
get the parallel yarns
for knotting.
56. GATING
In this process the drawn beam, which is prepared in warping, is directly mounted on a loom
LOOM SPECIFICATION
59. MENDING
Fabric is checked on both the front and back sides i.e. 100%
inspection.
Minor defects such as protruding fiber are corrected on the
spot manually; this Is known as general mending
The major marked defects comes under extra work category.
General Mending includes:
Nods pulling and relaxing
Nods and tails are trimmed
Wrong end – correct end is inserted
Broken pick – refilling by needle
End missing – refilling by needle
60. 30,000-35,000 meter
of fabric on average
checked per day .
In the mending
department 90% of
the workers are hired
on contract basis
MENDING AREA
61. FINISHING
Textile finishing is a term used for a series of
processes to which all bleached, mended, dyed
and certain grey fabric are subjected before they
are put into market.
They are carried out to improve the natural
properties of the fabric
Various finishes applied on fabrics in Raymond are
- soft finish, anti microbial, water repellent, wrinkle
free.
70. FOLDING
. The folding of the fabric is carried out according to the
requirements of the civil and exports market
Inspection is done using the 4 point system
Batch number, piece number, width, weight, quality and the
quantity for each roll is mentioned on a flag attached to the
package.
Different qualities have different flags. Then selvedge
stamping, hand rolling and top-end stamping is done.
Minimum length of each package: 15m
Minimum Tube roll length: 20m
Maximum length: Depends on the customer
72. Stentering Damage Press Mark Uneven Stentering
Water Mark Stentering Pin Holes
End mark Yellow Stains/Patches
Mildew Draining
Oil stains Rub Mark
Mud stains / rust stains Scouring Damage
Holes Scouring Patches
Steam band Singeing Band
Chemical / Resins spot Colour Contact
SOME COMMON OCCURING DEFECTS
73. PROCESS FLOW OF FOLDING
Checking Perching Doffing Folding Wrapping
Bar Code Packaging Warehouse
74. WAREHOUSE
The warehouse is spread across an area of 1 lakh square
feet with the capacity of up to 60 lakhmetres of fabric
. This department is managed by Warehouse Management
System (WMS)
they are packed with HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene)
bags by the packing machine
There are various Zones in the warehouse which enables
efficient management of the large quantity of fabrics.
76. DESIGNING
It plays a vital role in determining the quality, pattern and
color types of the fabrics to be produced for the civil as well
as export market, every season.
Design Sample
Approval Final Order
PROCESS FLOW
79. SAMPLING
Once the design has been made, it goes for sample
production. During this time, the master card containing all
the necessary and vital information regarding the fabric
construction, draft, peg plan, shade, warp & weft
arrangement, yarn count, twist direction, TPI & tentative
calculated fabric specifications.
82. QUALITY
CONTROL
The purpose of quality control laboratory is to ensure the level
of quality at the different stages of the production.
The standards followed by the Quality Control laboratory at
Raymond are: ASTM,AATCC, ISO and JISL.
The machines have been purchased from various
manufacturers across the globe
94. SUPPLYCHAIN
MANAGEMENT
Supply chain management means management of the
material flow from customer to customer. It includes
various attributes –
• Production target
• Sales
• Marketing
• Factory planning
•Warehouse
• Logistics At Raymond,Vapi supply chain management
is mainly used for FACTORY PLANNING
