In this course we will get to know about linen Fibre to Fabric process system.

1. Linenfibreto
fabric
By Shubham Pandey
About Me

2. Linen Facts-
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Properties of
linen fibre
Heritage of Linen Fibre?
Linen is one of the oldest fabrics known to
mankind. It has been venerated for its purity
and longevity - found in a condition of
perfect preservation even after more than
3,000 years.
Why Linen in Unique?
Cultivated with love, Flax is grown in a wide
coastal band of Western Europe, stretching
from the South of Normandy in Northern
France through Belgium and the
Netherlands. European flax cannot be
duplicated anywhere else on the planet.

3. INTRODUCTION
 Flax being a bast (wood based) fiber, is the
strongest among the natural cellulosic fibers.
 Extracted from the skin of the stem of the flax
plant, Flax is manufactured into linen yarn for
thread or woven fabrics.
 Flax fibre from Belgium & France
 Flax fiber length varies from about 25 to 150 mm
(1 to 6 in) and average 12-16 micrometers in
diameter.
 Classified further : Shorter tow fibers - used for
coarser fabrics Longer line fibers - used for finer
fabrics.
 Flax fibers can usually be identified by their
“nodes” which add to the flexibility and texture
of the fabric.
 The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of
irregular polygonal shapes which contribute to
the coarse texture of the fabric.
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4. Present scenario of Linen Fibre
& End use of fabric.
• Linen is an all-season fabric with thermoregulatory
properties.
• Linen used for Home Textiles, ethnic wear, suiting &
shirting & few segments in women wears.
• Due to anti-bacterial properties highly used in Medi-
textiles.
• According to the latest report in covid-19 linen is using
huge quantity in mask & cover fabric.
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5. PROCESS FLOW
Bale Opening Segregation Drawing
Conditioning Hackling Roving

6. Boiling
Bleaching
Drying Yarn Dyeing
Wet Spinning Winding Warping

7. Yarn Drawing Piece Dyeing Inspection
/Testing
Weaving Finishing Packing
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8. Bale Opening
Procured Bales (raw material) from France, Belgium are in two forms: Cylindrical , Cuboidal
Manually opening / loosening of fibers is done.
Conditioning
Segregation
Water is sprinkled/sprayed over the bale.
Improves strength , smoothness
Moisture- 75-80%
 Temp. – 30-35 degree centigrade
 Done manually by workers
 Sorting of raw material in bundles according to Quality and fineness.
 Bundles of about 100-120g raw fibers is made.
 Perforated table (with air suction) is used.
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9. Hackling
 Cleaning the raw fibre materials Separation of quality
fibre from the low
 Segregated fibre Hackled slivers (30 – 40 gm/m)
 Waste: Tow (25% - 30%)
 Make: FLCB, James Mackie, Belfast. Model – FH3898
 4 hackling machines in Plant-1
 Cycle time of hackling machine is 7 minutes.
 Processing capacity: 400 kg/ shift
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10. Drawing
• Hackled slivers passed through rollers.
• Improves shine, texture
• Hackled slivers Drawn slivers
• Machine : James Mackie, Italian. Model – FX280B. (24 draw frames, 6 in each
system)
Roving
Boiling and Bleaching
• Provides strength , false twist to drawn slivers.
• Essential before bleaching / boiling process
• Drawn slivers Roved slivers
• Roving machine by James Mackie, model – FX 402A
• Feed of 48 sliver cans & output of 96 spindles per machine
• Boiling - Done to remove grease and dust materials.
• Bleaching - Removal of natural colouring matters
• Roved slivers Boiled/bleached roved slivers
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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11. WetSpinning
• Imparts definite count to the yarn.
• Makes slivers suitable for weaving .
• Bleached or boiled roved slivers Spun yarns
 Spindle Speed: 3700-3800 m/min
 37 machines having 120 bobbins each
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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12. Drying
• Drying of the wet yarns after the wet spinning process.
• Wet spun yarn Dried spun yarns
• Machine used: RF drier
• Speed of conveyor - 4.5m/h
Winding
• Helps in manageable package formation of yarns
• Big yarn packages are formed
• Dried spun yarns Packages of spun yarns (Weight: 1-1.5 kg)
• Machine : Schlafhorst Autoconer
• Production – 3 tones/day
Image source – Internet
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13. YarnDyeing
Process of applying the desired colours to the spun yarns.
Undyed yarns Dyed yarns
Machines used: Hank dyeing machine
Dye Used: (1) Reactive Dyes
(2) Vat Dyes
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• Process of arranging warp in stretched , parallel position .
• Dyed /undyed yarns Stretched, parallel yarns
Sectional Warping
Single End Warping
Warping

15. Drawing
• Warped yarn is passed through the appropriate eye of the
heddles of a harness.
• A harness performs the shedding operations.
• The series of wires that are called heddles.
• The heddles have openings like eyes of needles.
• Warped yarns Drawn yarns
Image source – Internet
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16. Weaving
•Process interlacement of two sets of
yarns, the warp and the weft.
•Spun dyed /undyed yarn Dyed
/undyed linen fabric
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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Projectile Loom
Sulzer Ruti P7200
Rapier Loom
Sulzer Ruti G6200
Picanol Optimax
• RPM of looms – in the range of 250 to 400
• Widths attained – 64” & 111”
• Weft Insertion rate = 72-80 picks per minute
• Wastage – 2 meters per beam
Weaving

18. FabricProcessing
PieceDyed
YarnDyed
FABRICS
SINGEING
WASHING RANGE
ROTORMAT MACHINE
FABRIC
SINGEING + DESIZING
CONT. BLEACHING RANGE
STENTER
COLOR PAD (24 hr Rotation)
WASHING RANGE
WHITE FABRICS
SINGEING
CONT. BLEACHING RANGE
WhiteFabric
STENTER
CALENDERING MACHINE
SANFORIZING
FOLDING 18

19. FabricProcessingMachine
SINGEING
Gas used – LPG
WASHING RANGE CHAMBER DETAILS
1. Chamber 1 &2: water wash
2. 3rd chamber: soap wash
3. Chamber 4 & 5 : water wash
4. 6th chamber: neutralization with acetic acid
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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Fabric Processing
Machine
CONTINOUS BLEACHING RANGE - Desizing, scouring and bleaching
CHAMBER DETAILS:
Chamber 1 &2: hot water (90°c)
Chamber 3: peroxide, caustic soda, stabilizer ,wetting agent wash
Chamber 4 : steamed at 99°c
Chamber 5: hot water (100°c) wash + steam spray
Chamber 6 & 7: hot water(90°c) wash
Chamber 8: cold wash - neutralisation with acetic acid
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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ROTOMAT MACHINE
• Is used for scouring
• Inculcates soft look effects in fabrics
• Fabrics are dry-treated at speed of
800/900 m/min

21. FabricProcessingMachine
CALENDERING MACHINE
• Smooth silky touch to the fabric.
• Compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
• Reduce yarn slippage
STENTER MACHINE
• It is use for stretching or stentering fabrics.
• Brings the length and width to pre-determined dimensions.
• It is used for applying finishing chemicals and also to adjust
shade variation
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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22. FabricProcessingMachine
SANFORIZING MACHINE (Zero-Zero)
• Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage
• After sanforizing, the residual shrinkage of fabric may be
zero.
• So, this is called zero- zero process.
FOLDING MACHINE
Folding finished fabrics ready to be delivered to
the warehouse section.
Image source – Internet
Image source – Internet
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23. • Fabrics, for easier transportation, comes in the form of rolls or
meter flat roll in export and production houses. This form of
storage is more compact and sturdy making it easier for handling.
• This process takes place when the fabric is set to our rolling
department where it is checked by our inspectors, defected areas
are marked by stickers and sent to our stitching department for
final editing before production.
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Fabric Rolling

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