1. SCANDINAVIA
D E N M A R K • S W E D E N • N O R W A Y
E X P L O R E
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
2. CONTENTS
INTRO
Many shades of
Scandinavia
NORWAY
Stunning force
of nature
SWEDEN
Culture, nature,
and great food
CRUISES
Take in the sights
in style
STAY
Hotels that add to
the experience
DENMARK
Happiness in the
little kingdom
THE GUIDE
Make your dream
trip happen
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SWEDEN
STOCKHOLM
A blend of old
and new
LAPLAND
Explore the last
wilderness
E X P L O R E
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
Watch the drama
in the skies
Visitors can
participate in the
Swedish midsum-
mer tradition of
dancing around a
maypole to bring
good fortune and
health to all.
Scandinavia occupies a special spot in the travellers’ imagination.
We’ve all exclaimed over pictures of the Northern Lights
and the midnight sun, curled up with a noir thriller, been
wowed by the leaps and bounds made in the realm of design,
and dreamt of visiting the stunning fjords.
It’s a region where visitors can experience the confluence of
Sámi heritage and a fierce Viking past, visit medieval
towns with soaring church steeples, and walk through imposing
castles. To relax, stroll along cheerful waterfronts or people-
watch at buzzing restaurants and cafés. Outdoor lovers can hike
through dense fir forests or embark on a boat ride through
the fjords. And that’s just the showreel.
In winter, Scandinavia is a place of dramatic landscapes, with
swirling cold winds and magical colours in the sky.
Summer is glorious, with a burst of golden sunlight that envelops
the land in a warm glow. For the Indian traveller, it is convenient
to visit the three countries—Sweden, Norway, and
Denmark—together. They have a lot in common besides
history and landscape: a love of minimalist design, outdoor
culture, a strong sense of personal space, and a sustainable way
of life. Scratch the surface and different personalities emerge.
Regardless of which city is your entry point, whether it is
Oslo, Copenhagen, or Stockholm, the excellent
infrastructure and transport options make it simple for the
traveller to explore all three and discover their diversity.
SCANDINAVIA
A U T H E N T I C
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SPIRITED STOCKHOLM
Called the Venice of the North, Stockholm is where Lake Mälaren meets
the Baltic Sea.The cobblestone pathways, medieval architecture, and
futuristic, ultra-modern spaces blend into the city’s fabric seamlessly.
HOTSPOTS For sweeping views of this
city built on 14 islands, head to the tower
of Stadshuset (City Hall) where the annual
Nobel Prize banquet is held in the Blue
Hall. The cobblestone streets of the popular
medieval old city, Gamla Stan, are dotted
with old buildings. Upbeat Södermalm is
the hipster hangout. While at Björkö Island,
Birka, one of Stockholm’s first real towns,
has excellent museums and a guided tour
that afford time travel to the mid-800’s.
ROYAL RENDITIONS At astounding
structures like The Royal Palace feel the
pulse of the 700-year-old history of this
country. For a possible royal sight-
ing, stop at their residence
Drottningholm Palace,
one of Stockholm’s World
Heritage Sites.
MUSEUM MANDATE Hop
on a ferry to Djurgården
island for a day at the museums. At the
Vasa Museum see an impressive restored
69-metre-long carved wooden warship
that sunk within minutes of sailing. Perfect
for a family visit is Skansen Museum, the
world’s oldest open-air museum and time
capsule for life in old Sweden.
DANCEATHON At the ABBA Museum
don digital costumes, and sing and dance
with holograms of the pop icons.
WHILE IN STOCKHOLM, SHOP
H&M lies at every block. Stockholm is also
the home of Ikea, Happy Socks, and
Sandquist. Shop in the glamorous
Östermalm district, the affluent
Bibliotekstan or the commercial
centre, Norrmalm. Well-crafted
clothes, glassware, jewellery,
modern curios and home decor
reflect a Nordic tradition of
simple yet beautiful design.
EAT & DRINK
Sweden’s modern cuisine is complex and
creative. Reindeer meat in all its forms as
well as a smörgåsbord including pickled
herring is a must-try. Fikapaus (coffee break)
with a cinnamon bun is a national tradition.
Savour husmanskost, a Swedish favourite.
Mårten Trotzigs
Gränd at Gamla
Stan is Stockholm’s
narrowest street,
measuring only
three feet.
Read The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo
before visiting the city in which the
grim story unfolds.The Millennium
Tour covers areas featured in the
novels and is a great way to experi-
ence Stockholm’s non-touristy side.
BOOK
DAY TRIPS Decipher the mysteries of the
runes of Sigtuna, Sweden’s oldest town
lined with pretty pastel townhouses. Live
the archipelago life starting with sailors’
hangout Sandhamn, historical Vaxholm
and the old mining town of Utö. Soak in the
laid back academic vibe of the university
town of Uppsala by the River Fyris with the
largest cathedral in Scandinavia watching
over it. For a beachside town, there’s a lot
to do in the fashionable Saltsjöbaden like a
game of tennis or golf, a massage at the spa
or a dip in its open-air bath house; it can
get absolutely exhausting. The steamship
S.S. Mariefred is a romantic way to get to
Mariefred where the domed and turreted
Gripsholm Castle with detailed frescoes and
an interesting portrait gallery awaits.
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SONG OF FIRE AND ICE
Get a taste of Sámi culture while staying in traditional tents in
Swedish Lapland and learn to make ice lanterns.
SWEDISH LAPLAND Sápmi, as the
Sámi call their traditional lands stretching
from the Artic north of Norway, Sweden,
Finland, and the Kola Peninsula of Russia,
is a way of life, rather than a geographical
border. For a sense of history of this shared
world, visit Fatmomakke, a mix of tepees
and cottages by a beautiful lake and a his-
torical meeting place for the settlers and the
Sámi. It is also on the famous 400-kilome-
tre Wilderness Way; so motorheads might
want to drive here.
Camping on the cold and beautiful ter-
rain of the Swedish Lapland surrounded
by snow-dusted forests of fir and birch in a
lávvu (tent) with a Sámi guide and his pack
of huskies or reindeer, is a Waldenesque
experience. At Arjeplog’s Silver
Museum, a stunning collection
of Sámi silver is on display while
the Båtsuoj Sami Center is a
chance to live the Sámi way. Head
to Jokkmokk, the annual 400-year-
old winter market, a big Sámi party that
is the best place to eat souvas (smoked
reindeer carpaccio) with lingonberries,
buy Duodji (Sámi handicraft) items, see art
exhibits, and participate in seasonal events.
SÁMI CULTURE Visit the Ájtte Museum
for deeper insights on the cultural heritage
of the Sámi. Experience the magic of ice
lanterns and learn to make one at Vuollerim
Ice Lantern Festival in winter. In the light
of a lantern-guided tour, explore the church
town of Gammelstad, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site outside Luleå, the largest in
Scandinavia. Parishioners would make an
arduous journey across the region to attend
Sunday mass at the 15th-century
church and stay the night
in one of its 428 cottages.
Let an enthusiastic pack of
huskies pull your sled over the
frozen Bay of Bothnia. Follow the
paths of Sámi reindeer herders
who still fish and graze along the Padjelanta
Trail in the Padjelanta National Park. Rein-
deer are at the heart of Lapland’s calendar
and calf marking is a significant event in
Lapland. At Överkalix even guests can get
involved at the Rokkas Reindeer Farm
and help mark newborn calves with
the herder’s mark. Under the night sky,
sitting around a bonfire listening to stories
and joiks (Sámi songs), the Swedish
Lapland, Europe’s last remaining wilder-
ness, feels warm.
FOR MORE INFO
WWW.SWEDISHLAPLAND.CO.UK/
Sámi
language
has over 150
words for
snow.
Traditional Sámi songs called the
yoik (or joik) are one of Europe’s
oldest living music traditions.
MUSIC
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Relax along the
Danish Riviera,
which is dotted
with picturesque
towns and family-
friendly beaches.
THE LIGHT FANTASTIC
Watch the greatest magical show on Earth as bright lights dance in
the sky, and sled through a winter wonderland.
AURORA BOREALIS Between
September and end-March, all
roads or tracks lead to the North-
ern Lights in the Arctic plains of
Sweden. Everything else is a side
attraction. Even if it is the Kiruna
Kyrka, a neo-Gothic church voted
the most beautiful public building
in Sweden. Remember that this is
the land of the midnight sun, so
instead of sleeping you can snow-
mobile, dog sled and take reindeer
tours just outside the mining
town of Kiruna. Nothing instils a
sense of wonder in the universe
like the stunning Aurora Borealis.
To ensure you are taking no
chances, head to the Aurora
Sky Station for a guaran-
teed good show. With its
ideal location in the Abisko
National Park, high platform
and clear skies away from
light pollution, it’s the best seat
in the house. If the weather
conditions dither, ski through
the classic, 440-kilometre-long
King’s Trail, a winter wonderland
of majestic peaks, dramatic valleys
and frozen waterfalls. Lazy ones
could just choose a snowmobile,
dog sled or even go on horseback
or moose it. The frozen waters
of Torneträsk lake are nature’s
spectacular stage where the
Northern Lights is best
photographed.
Stay in Abisko for
three days and
there’s an 88 per cent
chance of seeing
a dazzling display
of Northern Lights,
provided the skies
are clear.
DENMARK
COPENHAGEN
Partake of the happy,
cosy vibe
VIKINGS
Tales and folklore of
a warrior race
DANISH RIVIERA
Indulgence by
the seaside
E X P L O R E
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Everything about the city of Copenhagen, located on the coastal
islands of Zealand and Amager, is hygge (cosy). Local shops and cafés,
dedicated cycling bridges, and communal barbecues go a long way in
making this a happy place.
FAVOURITE HOTSPOTS Ease into
the Copenhagen state of mind at Nyhavn,
Copenhagen’s idyllic waterfront with
17th-century townhouses (tip: Writer
Hans Christian Anderson lived in nos. 20,
67, and 18 at various points in his life).
Visit the horse stables and get a beer-
making tour at the Carlsberg brewery.
Hang out in higgledy-piggledy Christiania,
a vibrant community with a unique auton-
omous status. Also known as “freetown”,
alternative Copenhagen thrives in its artsy
cafés and fun bars.
THE USUAL SUSPECTS Visit Runde-
tårn, a 17th-century vertigo-
inducing observatory with
a helical ramp, that has
graced the pages of many an
architectural magazine.
The inspiration for Disney-
land, Tivoli Gardens checks
all the boxes with
a world-famous theme-park, thrilling
rides, entertaining shows, outdoor cafés,
and splendid 18th-century landscaped
gardens too.
A dose of art is essential at the National
Gallery with artists Picasso, Rembrandt
and Asger Jorn in their collection.
OFFBEAT Pedal to the beach at Amager
Strandpark on a sun-soused day to blokart,
kayak, or play a game of beach volleyball.
COPENHAGEN KNOWS HOW TO
SHOP Check out houseware geniuses,
Hay and Illum Bolighus at one
of Europe’s longest pedestrian
streets and shopping mecca,
Strøget. Take a detour to the
Latin Quarter or Kronprin-
sensgade for something more
unique. Auctions at Bredgade
and Store Kongensgade
offer exclusive finds.
EAT & DRINK World’s best restaurant,
Noma (reopens in 2017) is the calling card for
Copenhagen’s inventive food scene. Whether
it’s a hearty bowl of Grød (porridge), organic
hotdogs, formel B or Amass’s new Nordic
cuisine, or recycled food, the city is a foodie
lab. Head to Copenhagen Street Food, a food
truck station and Torvehallerne market for
gastronomic experiments. Wash it all down
with a drink at the hip Meatpacking District.
“Wonderful, wonderful
Copenhagen” Frank
Loesser’s song from
the 1952 film Hans
Christian Andersen
also inspired the
city’s motto.
DAY TRIPS Admire the ornate craftsman-
ship of 39 tombs of queens and kings at the
imposing 12th-century Roskilde Domkirke,
Europe’s first gothic cathedral in brick. Get
your Viking helmet on at Vikingeskibsmu-
seet, where five ships that sat at the bottom
of Roskilde Fjord stand proud. Travel to
the vibrant Swedish town of Malmö taking
the impressive Øresund Bridge connecting
Denmark and Sweden. Even locals think
Møns Klint’s breathtaking white cliffs
and its turquoise sea is the most beautiful
place in Denmark. Every August, watch
the Shakespearian classic Hamlet in the
backdrop of Kronborg Castle, which the
inspired Elsinore castle in his tragic play.
There’s good reason why so many royal
weddings take place at turreted fairy-tale
Frederiksborg Castle, surrounded by
glistening waters. Bliss out in Bornholm,
known to be Denmark’s sunniest spot dot-
ted with red-roofed fishing villages, historic
smokehouses and artisanal industries.
Visit the
Louisiana
Museum of
Modern Art by
the sea.
Catch an event
at Huset KBH,
Denmark’s
largest cultural
house.
Eat at “Paper
Island” (Papir-
øen), Copenha-
gen’s destina-
tion for great
street food.
Haggle for a
good bargain at
the flea markets
of the popu-
lar Remisen.
Get a photo-
op with the
statue of Hans
Christian An-
derson’s Little
Mermaid.
5 MUST DOS
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WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN
BEST VIEW
Vor Frelsers Kirke
(Church of Our Sav-
iour) on Christian-
shavn with its glori-
ous golden corkscrew
spire is a local secret.
It offers an amazing
view of Copenhagen.
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VIKING HEADQUARTERS The Vikings
chose Aarhus as an important port town
because of its strategic location at the point
where River Aarhus meets Aarhus Bay.
The second largest city in Denmark, this
university town is a kaleidoscope of art,
museums, and cafés. Life from the 18th to
20th centuries comes alive in the chatter
of pretend schoolhouses and workhouses
of Den Gamle By (The Old Town), a bril-
liant open-air museum. Undoubtedly, this
collection of 75 historic buildings, meticu-
lously recreated at Old Town should be the
first stop.
The ARoS (Aarhus Art
Museum), Scandinavia’s
largest museum, houses the
works of exciting contem-
porary artists. Hunt for that
elusive pot of gold at the end
of artist Olafur Eliasson’s
360-degree coloured glass
walkway, Your Rainbow Panorama, perched
atop the museum roof. ARoS is surrounded
by innovative museums that include the
Danish Poster Museum, Women’s Museum,
and Occupation Museum.
Located on the old stomping grounds of
the Vikings, the architecturally breathtak-
ing Moesgård Museum reveals fascinating
aspects of early Viking life (and even mor-
bid ones, like the famous Grauballe Man, a
corpse preserved in a bog, suspected to be
evidence of human sacrifice).
Explore the spot where Vikings first
settled in Aarhus at the Viking
Museum, where an entire
Viking town was excavated.
With so much to see, make
time to sit back and enjoy
the relaxed cafés and stroll
through the old Latin Quarter
and enjoy a spot of jazz at the
legendary bar Bent J.
DANISH RIVIERA The best beaches in
Denmark stretch for around 230 kilometres
along the winding coastal roads of the Dan-
ish Riviera or North Zealand. Enjoy shallow
beaches, warm summer sun, and spar-
kling white sand between Sejerøbugten to
Øresund. Watch for blue flags that flutter
throughout Denmark on beaches that
meet stringent standards of water quality,
safety, and sustainability. Many
Danes cycle down this
coastal trail dotted with
wild-flowering chicory in
a slow languorous journey
that embraces nature,
history, and culture. The
soft white dunes and wild
deep-pink roses of Hornbaek,
the charming fishing town of
Gilleleje, and designer
Arne Jacobsen’s distinctive striped life-
guard towers at Bellevue are top favourites.
On non-beach days, the Kronberg
Castle (of Hamlet fame) at Helsingør, the
Frederiksborg Castle at Hillerød, and the
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, with
its winning combo of sculptures and sea
air, are perfect alternatives. The geriatric
82-year-old wooden roller
coaster at Bakken, the world’s
oldest amusement park in
the woods of Dryehaven is
a throwback to sepia-tinged
images of a funfair. There is
no better place in the world to
pig out on excellent seafood
and indulge in Gammeldags
(old fashioned ice-cream)
than at Tisvildeleje, a quiet
seaside village.
In July, the Moesgård
Viking Moot, an
annual festival, attracts
aspiring Vikings in
full regalia to
celebrate age-old
lore and customs.
In Rungsted, author
Karen Blixen’s home,
which houses a mu-
seum, a library and a
café, is an interesting
detour. Her books
inspired several film
adaptations like Out
of Africa and Babette’s
Feast, among others.
CITY OF SMILES SUMMER LIVING
Delve into Viking culture on a visit to the warrior race’s first settlement
in the country.
Explore this hidden gem with laid-back beaches and coastal trails.
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Create an unfor-
gettable holiday
memory with
a family picnic
overlooking
the iconic
Geirangerfjord.
STORIES IN FUNEN Funen (Fyn in
Danish), or rather Odense, its capital, is
the birthplace of writer Hans Christian
Andersen. With its green pastoral hills,
atmospheric inns and historic houses, it’s
easy to see how Funen played muse to the
writer. See the island through the imagina-
tive eye of the man who gave us fairy tales
like The Ugly Duckling, The Princess and the
Pea and The Little Match Girl.
Andersen called Egeskov Castle, the
“finest and most beautiful on
Fyn” in a diary entry. Born-
holm Castle left its mark
on the writer who describes
it vividly in his novel, Only a
Fiddler. Hindsgavl Castle was
recommended to an acquain-
tance for having “the finest
view in Fyn”. He remembers Valdemar’s
Castle for its fine portraits and a lady with a
face that touched his heart. A stay at a castle
or manor, many of which are partly convert-
ed hotels, is a true experience of old Funen.
Celebrate Odense’s most important resi-
dent at a museum dedicated to the writer.
Keep your eyes peeled for tributes to the
man in the form of nooks, gardens,
statues and cute Andersen-
shaped silhouettes in “Walk/
Don’t Walk” signs.
Finally, take the time to
stop for a picnic with a basket
laden with goodies from the
farmer’s market, while pass-
ing through villages with
thatched roofed homes
and windmills.
The playful world of
Legoland in nearby
Billund is the original
Legoland Park and
also features a 3D
Lego figure of Hans
Christian Andersen.
FAIRY-TALE LAND
Relive childhood stories in Hans Christian Anderson’s home.
NORWAY
OSLO FJORDS FLÅM
A place where culture
and nature unite
Nature’s gorgeous
works of art
A wild and
beautiful land
E X P L O R E
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Oslo is surrounded by verdant forests, deep blue fjords, and lofty
mountains.This seat of the Viking kingdom is a bustling modern city,
with new wave restaurants, contemporary architecture, trendsetting
design, and cultural vibrancy.
HOTSPOTS Go café hopping and yacht
spotting to immerse in waterfront life at the
Aker Brygge wharf. Catch a world-class per-
formance at the glacier-inspired Oslo Opera
House or enjoy unbeatable views of the fjord
from its rooftop. Take a guided tour at the
Arkeshus Fortress, better known as the
castle that inspired scenes in the animated
film Frozen. The eccentric Vigeland Park has
200 sculptures featuring Gustav
Vigeland’s interpretation of
man’s journey from cradle to
grave. On the museum trail, put
Astrup Fearnley Museum of
Modern Art and Munch Museum
on your list, although the oldest
version of “Scream” by Edvard
Munch is at the National Gallery.
SHOP Savvy shoppers browse at
Markveien street at Grünerløkka’s indepen-
dent stores and at Karl Johans gate, which
features a mix of haute couture, high street,
and pret lines. Buy local at Basarhallene,
Friends Fair Trade, Moods of Norway, and
Norway Designs.
EAT & DRINK Indoor food
hall, Mathallen serves
everything from brunost
(a kind of brown cheese)
and the famed Norwe-
gian salmon to smalahove
(sheep’s head). Try the
spiced potato-based
spirit akvavit, the
national drink.
The Nobel Peace
Prize is presented at
the City Hall on 10
December.Take part
in the pageantry by
joining the traditional
torchlight parade.
VIBRANT OSLO
Canoe at
Oslomarka and
stay in a forest
hytte (hut)
Check out
music spaces
Bla and
Kulturkirken
Jakob
Go see quaint
wooden houses
at Kampen
Visit the Ibsen
Museum, the
home of play-
wright and poet
Henrik Ibsen
Take a two-hour
cruise around
the Oslofjord
5 MUST DOS
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The path along
Aker River (Ak-
erselva), Oslo’s
green lung, is
a perfect trail
that follows
waterfalls, old
mills, cafés, and
riverside lawns.
DAY TRIPS While in Bygdøy, gawk at
exquisitely artful seafaring vessels used as
tombs and artefacts from the pre-Christian
era at the Viking Ship Museum. Skiers can
marvel at the 1,000-ton modern ski jump at
Holmenkollen, which has marvellous views
of the fjords. Non-skiers can cultivate an
appreciation for skiing at the world’s
oldest ski museum. Watch the magic of
glass-blowing at Hadeland Glassverk in
Jevnaker, Oslo’s oldest glassworks factory.
Follow the winding trails in the woodlands
of Nordmarka either on foot or bike, ending
with a picnic at the lake.
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WATER WONDERLAND The deep,
calm sea flows in the mountainous veins of
Norway, the blue-blood infusing life into the
craggy mountainsides. Everywhere, stagger-
ing landscapes unravel along the time-tested
trails of historical chugging ferries favoured
by modern-day cruise liners, and roads like
the Atlantic Road. With old wooden houses
and charming streets shops, Stavanger is
a good launch point to start exploring the
fjords of Norway. Combine a hike to Pulpit
Rock, the popular and sometimes crowded
hangout on a perch above the fjords in
Ryfylke (600 metres above Lysefjord), with
a boat trip. A hike called the
Troll’s tongue should be warn-
ing enough but at Trolltunga,
another superb perch hang-
ing 700 metres above Lake
Ringedalsvatnet awaits. Rest
your adventure gear at Bergen,
the gateway to Norway’s fjords
which offers a historical
The first cruise sailed
into the Geiranger-
fjord in 1869, after it
was “discovered” as a
travel destination by
British mountaineers
in the mid-1800s.
TROLL HUNTING
The origin of the word troll finds its roots in Norwegian folklore.There are some
pretty friendly looking trolls, especially at Karl Johans gate.“Trolls not Allowed”
is a fun sign put out by some shops. In Trollstigen, and elsewhere, look out for
‘Troll Crossing” road signs. On your ride up the Fløibanen funicular, keep your
eyes open for troll totems. Although they live mostly online now, the traditional
home of the troll was Trollheimen. Henrik Ibsen’s Peer Gynt met the Troll King in
Rondane National Park. Meet the world’s largest troll, the Senja Troll who lives in a
folk tale-themed family park on the ocean side of Senja. Many places are named
after trolls such as Troll Church, Troll Wall, Troll Path, and Troll’s Tongue. Remem-
ber to get a troll as souvenir; they are considered a good luck charm!
FANTASY
FJORD TRAIL
Click a thousand pictures surrounded by the beauty of Norway’s fjords.
FOR MORE INFO
WWW.FJORDNORWAY.COM
WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACE
The king of the Norwegian fjords, Geirang-
erfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
is Norway’s star attraction. There are two
routes to Geiranger via meandering sea
inlets and the Geiranger–Trollstigen road
(closed in winter) with hairpin bends and
steep inclines. Doubtlessly, the magnificent
fjord warrants a top-down view and the
best vantage points are Dalsnibba, Flydal-
sjuvet, and Ørnesvingen. The thundering
waterfalls of Brudesløret (Bridal Veil) and
De syv søstre (The Seven Sisters) flow
down emerald-green mountainsides. Across
the fjord, is a waterfall called Friaren (the
Suitor), said to try to woo the Seven Sisters.
Once docked at the village of Geiranger,
a cup of java at cafes that offer one of the
best views in the world is recommended.
The hillside is dotted with abandoned fjord
farms that have been preserved to give trav-
ellers a perspective of life in the region.
perspective on the region. The wharf at
Bryggen, is best seen through a guided tour
taking you through its medieval past. For a
spectacular view of the city and the fjords,
take the Fløibanen funicular cable car up
the Fløyen Mountain. In Ålesund, the town
that rose from its ashes after a terrible fire,
checking out the art nouveau tableau of
turrets and spires is what the travel experts
prescribe. Get up close and personal with
tiny cottages, farmlands and the wildlife in
Nærøyfjord, whose narrowest point is only
250 meters wide. Voss is an adrenaline fix
with adventure fare like white
water rafting, parasailing,
and bungee jumping. Glacier
walking in Stryn, at the
Nigardsbreen glacier is a
way to glimpse the Ice Age.
18 19
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THE FLÅM LIFE Flåm visitors travel in
style. Choose between the gleaming
Flåmsbana train and several cruises that
tour the region. The railway cuts through
20 kilometres of wild landscapes, and with
its almost spiral turns through 20 tunnels,
this is one hair-raising ride. Flåm village is
located on the bank of Aurlandsfjord and
it is the last settlement at the end of the
innermost arm of the Sognefjord, one of
the longest and deepest fjords in the world.
Decompress after your journey with a half-
an-hour film, Living with the Fjord, screened
daily. The famous, handmade Aurland shoe
is only made at the Aurland Shoe Factory,
so owning a pair that inspired the classic
penny loafer style in America is like buying
wearable art. Cycle to Otternes Bygdetun
farm, which is still much like it used to be
in the 1700s. Enjoy a guided tour and a
communal meal of sour cream
porridge, cured goat meat,
smoked salmon, and other
seasonal treats. Continue this
culinary sampling at nearby
Undredal or squeeze into the
cosy Undredal Stave Church,
the smallest stave church (made
of wooden planks) in Norway. A
day of kayaking on the still waters of
Aurlandsfjord should restore your faith in
the world. The journey is as much part of
the experience as the destination.
FOR MORE INFO
WWW.VISITFLAM.COM &
WWW.FLAMSBANA.NO
LAND AHOY In a way, the story of Hur-
tigruten’s ships is the story of the fjords.
A working passenger and freight service
since 1893, this Norwegian coastal express
traversing the jagged fjords is a vital supply
line for the 34 ports along its route. The 11
coastal ships that sail the length of Norway
started with one ship, Captain Richard
With’s steamer, D.S. Vesteraalen. Hop on
at any point between Kirkenes and Bergen,
or do the 12-day round trip, which includes
the mesmerising Geiranger
fjord, awe-inspiring glaciers,
and islands like those in the
Lofoten, which are dotted
with grass-thatched cabins.
It offers the voyage of a life-
time. Since it sails through
delicate environments,
there is a great emphasis
on sustainable travel.
The Navvies Road is an
old service road used
by railway workers.
Disembark from the
train early and hike or
cycle to Flåm along a
theatrical backdrop.
A WILD LAND CRUISIN’ SCANDINAVIA
VOYAGES ON THE
HURTIGRUTEN
Live it up aboard the Hur-
tigruten ships. Based on
the season in which you’re
visiting, you can choose
from its range of excellent
coastal voyages. The relaxed
vibe of its well-appointed
cabins punctuated with
the excitement of seeing
each stunning locale that
the ship travels through
is unparalleled. Cabins on
the higher deck come with
picture windows while the
lower ones have portholes.
Whether you select the
12-Day Classic Roundtrip
Voyage, 11-Day Classic
Norwegian Discovery Voy-
age, 7-Day Voyage North
or 6-Day Voyage South,
breathtaking scenery (both
in summer and winter),
world-class hospitality, and
unique excursions make
the Hurtigruten ships
a perfect travel partner
(hurtigruten.com; the classic
12-day round-trip starts from
€1,206/`86,700 per person;
a six-day voyage south from
Kirkenes to Bergen costs
€770/`55,350 per person).
EASY CONNECTIONS
ON DFDS
For travellers, making con-
nections are a dreaded task.
DFDS Seaways has a great
network of ferries across
Europe. In Scandinavia,
Crown Seaways or the Pearl
Seaways, with the biggest
ships on the fleet, provide
one of the best ways to
travel between the two main
capitals of Scandinavia,
Copenhagen and Oslo. With
two classes of cabin—Com-
modore Class, a premium
cabin, and Seaways Class,
a standard inner cabin-
-the overnight journey is
comfortable. An entertain-
ing evening is assured with
several restaurants, clubs,
shops, and bars on board.
Passengers are allowed to
bring their vehicle (bicycle,
car, or caravan) on board
at an added cost. (dfds-
seaways.com; cabins start
at €170/`12,250 per person
and go up to €379/`27,250
depending on cabin and
number of people).
PARTY SHIP TO
STOCKHOLM
To make the most of the
scenery of the beautiful
archipelagos of the Bal-
tic Sea, take a round-trip
from Stockholm to various
ports on the well-known
Viking Line. On board, the
reputation of Viking as a
party ship is well-founded.
There’s always a line-up of
great entertainment and
music acts, grand smörgås-
bords at the restaurants,
steaming saunas, and bars
that are buzzing round
the clock (vikingline.se; there
are different levels of suites
available, overnight cruise
starts from €21/`1,500
per couple).
*Rates can vary between
summer and winter, and
during holiday season.
Please reconfirm before
booking.
Embark on train and boat journeys through dramatic landscapes.
20 21
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THE GUIDE
ORIENTATION
Scandinavia, which com-
prises Norway, Sweden,
and Denmark, is part of
Northern Europe. It is
Europe’s largest peninsula
and extends from the Arc-
tic circle to the North and
Baltic seas.
GETTING THERE
There are frequent flights
from India to Copenha-
gen, Stockholm, and Oslo
(11-16 hours, depending on
layover) with a stopover at
a Middle-Eastern hub like
Doha or Dubai, or Euro-
pean cities like Moscow,
Paris, Amsterdam, Munich,
or Zurich.
Copenhagen Airport has
been voted Europe’s most
efficient airport 10 times
in the last 12 years, so it’s a
good option for a smooth
entry to the region (www.
cph.dk).
GETTING AROUND
By Air For travellers
pressed for time, air
travel is a convenient
way to travel within
Scandinavia. The largest
domestic operator is SAS
which offers convenient
connections
to major airports (www.
flysas.com). Other airlines
include Widerøe
Flyveselskap in Norway
and Malmö Aviation in
Sweden, among others.
By Rail In Scandinavia,
rail travel is first-rate and a
convenient way to navigate
between the three capi-
tals as well as to other
destinations in the penin-
sula. There are a number of
scenic train journeys, like
the Bergen railway, which
are a great way to see more
of Scandinavia (details of
routes and deals at scandi-
naviarail.com). It’s key to
plan and book ahead.
By road All major car
rental firms like Hertz,
Avis and Europcar operate
in Scandinavia and have
kiosks at major airports.
VISAS
Since all three are
Schengen countries,
visitors need to apply for
a single visa covering all
the days of their visit in
the country of longest stay.
Flight and hotel bookings
have to be submitted with
the visa application.
Denmark A tourist visa is
given for valid passport
holders for a travel period
of less than 90 days. The
cost of the visa is `4,300
while the VFS fee is `1,432.
Visas take a minimum
of 15 days to process (dk.
vfsglobal.co.in).
Norway A 90-day, mul-
tiple entry visa costs
€60/`4,390. In addition,
there is a VFS fee of `1,450.
Applicants have to register
and pay online (selfservice.
udi.no). Processing time is
15 days (www.vfsglobal.com/
Norway/India).
Sweden The cost of the
Swedish visa is `4,300 for
adults. Fees are to be paid
in cash at the Swedish Visa
Application Centre, along
with a service charge of
`760 and a cash handling
charge of `57. The visa is
processed within 12-15
days (www.vfsglobal.se/
india/Index.html).
SEASONS
Scandinavia takes on new
avatars through the year.
In May-August, daytime
temperature rises to 20°C,
making the weather balmy
and the landscape a lush
green. It’s the time of the
gorgeous midnight sun,
and all of Scandinavia
puts the daylight to good
use with food, culture,
and music festivals. This
is also when camping
grounds re-open. During
spring (March-May) and
autumn (September-
November) the weather
is pleasant at about 18°C,
and a buoyant mood
takes over the cities.
Travelling in winter
(October-March) has its
own charm too. Though
the temperatures range
between 2°C and -10°C,
there are colourful
Christmas markets to bring
good cheer. This is also a
popular time for winter
sports like skiing and
sledding. And for spotting
that amazing visitor draw,
the Northern Lights.
23
SUMEDHASAH
14. www.
visitsweden.com
www.
visitnorway.com
www.
visitdenmark.com
www.
vasamuseet.se/en/
www.
hurtigruten.com
www.dfds.com
www.
swedishlapland.
com
www.
hotel-geiranger.no
www.
visitstockholm.com
www.
nordicchoicehotels.
com
www.
visitcopenhagen.
com
www.
visitflam.com
www.
vikingline.com
DENMARK
BUDGET COPENHAGEN
Wake Up Copenhagen
has two centrally located
hotels, with slick, modern
interiors and well-planned
rooms (+45-44800090 and
+45-44800010; wakeupco-
penhagen.com; doubles from
DKK500/`4,928)
COMFORT COPENHAGEN
Skt. Petri is a contemporary
chic hotel in the medieval
centre of the city, with
wooden parquet balconies
that overlook Copenha-
gen’s rooftops and spires
(+45-33459100; sktpetri.
com; standard doubles from
DKK801/`7,740).
EXCLUSIVE COPENHAGEN
D’angleterre is a historic
hotel dating back to 1755.
It was built as a neoclassi-
cal palace, offering guests
an old-world elegance
with modern style and
technology (+45-33120095;
dangleterre.com; doubles from
DKK3,250/`31,408).
SWEDEN
BUDGET STOCKHOLM
Comfort Hotel Stockholm
has quirky, colourful inte-
riors that give it a friendly
air and is centrally located
(+46-856622200; nordic-
choicehotels.se/comfort/com-
fort-hotel-stockholm; doubles
from SEK710/`5,587).
COMFORT STOCKHOLM
Clarion Hotel Sign is a
model granite and glass
building. Design connois-
seurs will enjoy sinking
into the Arne Jacobsen’s
Egg and Swan chairs in
the lobby and going up to
rooms named after design
icons (+46-86769800;
nordicchoicehotels.se/clarion/
clarion-hotel-sign; doubles
from SEK2,029/`15,750).
EXCLUSIVE STOCKHOLM
Grand Hotel Stockholm
is a waterfront property
overlooking the Royal Pal-
ace and Gamla Stan. This
is where the Nobel Laure-
ates stay, ever since the
first Nobel banquet in 1901
(+46-086793500; grandho-
tel.se/en; doubles from SEK
3,145/`24,747 with breakfast).
SWEDISH LAPLAND
Ice Hotel is made anew
each year, sculpted en-
tirely out of ice each
winter, only to melt back
into the River Torne in
summer (+46-98066800;
icehotel.com; doubles from
SEK2,500/`19,672; warm
boots, a snowsuit, mittens,
and a balaclava are provided
during your stay).
Tree Hotel has a unique
selling point: Guest rooms
are located in pods that
hang among the treetops
in the forests of Lapland,
just south of the Arctic
Circle (+46-92810403;
treehotel.se; doubles from
SEK4,700/`36,984).
NORWAY
BUDGET OSLO
Thon Hotel Oslo Pan-
orama has rooms with
clean lines with cheery
accents, and balconies that
offer panoramic views
of the beautiful bay and
city lights (+47-23310800;
thonhotels.no/hoteller/
land/norge/oslo/thon-hotel-
oslo-panorama; doubles from
NOK2,090/`15,750).
COMFORT OSLO
The Thief is a trendy hotel
located in Tjuvholmen,
an area that was known
as a den for thieves in
the 18th century. Now it
is a centre for contempo-
rary art and good living
projects (+47-24004000;
thethief.com; doubles from
NOK2,390/`18,475).
EXCLUSIVE OSLO
Hotel Continental is one of
Norway’s finest five-star
hotels and has stayed with
the same family for four
generations since 1899
(+47-22824040; hotelcon-
tinental.no; doubles from
NOK2,995/`23,152).
FLÅM
Fretheim Hotel used to
be a farm that hosted
English lords who came
to fish in rivers rich with
salmon (+47-57636300;
fretheimhotel.no; doubles from
NOK1,350/`10,436).
GEIRANGER
Hotell Geiranger is located
in one of the world’s most
beautiful spots. Not surpris-
ingly, each window looks
out over a breathtaking
view (+47-70263005; hotel-
geiranger.no; doubles from
NOK1,300/`10,049).
STAY
SCANDINAVIA
E X P L O R E
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15. ONLY IN SCANDINAVIA
fjords | northern lights | midnight sun | royal history |
nordic cuisine | design | sustainable living | unesco world
heritage sites | sámi culture | vikings
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