Tie and dye of Rajasthan

Tie & Dye of Rajasthan
Name – Richa Kumari
B.Des, Sem – VI
Subject- History of Indian Textiles
and accessories.
Silpa- Sadana, Visva Bharati
April 06, 2020
April 6, 2020 By Richa Kumari 1

Rajasthan
Capital: Jaipur
Districts: 33
Area: 342,239 sq km
Population:
68,548,437
Borders: Punjab to
the north, Haryana and
Uttar Pradesh to the
northeast, Madhya
Pradesh to the
southeast, and Gujarat
to the southwest.
Map of Rajasthan
2By Richa KumariApril 6, 2020

Traditional Textiles of Rajasthan
1. Woven textiles
 Dhabla
 Kota Doria
2. Painted and Printed textiles
 Pichwai painting
 Block prints-
 Bagru prints
 Sanganeri prints
 Barmeri prints
3. Embroidered textiles
 Jaat embroidery
 Sunf embroidery

 Sujni work
 Applique work
 Zari work
 Jain embroidery
 Quilts of Jaipur
4. Resist dyed textiles
 Batik
 Tie & dye (Bandhani/ Bandhej)
 Laheriya
 Mothra
5. Non- woven textiles
 Namda

Bandhej of Rajasthan

Tie & dye of Rajasthan
Bandhej, also known as Bandhani is a tie & dye method
practiced mainly in states of Rajasthan, Gujarat and parts of
Uttar Pradesh.
The word Bandhani is derived from a Sanskrit word Banda
which means “to tie”.
1. History:
This technique began about 5000 years ago.
One of its earliest visual representations can be seen in the
Ajanta caves, depicting the life of Lord Buddha on the walls of
Ajanta caves. (ref-1)
2. Centres: Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer.
3. Materials: Fabric (cotton, silk, satin), threads, needle,
colours for dyeing.

4. Techniques:
 The fabric to be dyed is tied at different points in knots
and then dyed with colours.
 When the tied fabric goes for dyeing, the thread or knots
resists that part from being dyed and allows to stay
white or whatever colour the fabric has.
 Once the fabric is dyed, it is left for drying in open air.
Fabric with knots

• Procedure:
Tie & dye design to be transferred as
stencil printing to fabric
Fabrics are tied with threads for dyeing
Fabric immersed in boiling dye bath Tie and dyed fabric laid out to dry

For multi-coloured Bandhani
•At first the fabric is dyed with light colour such as yellow.
•After the first dye, the loose knots are re-tied in a repairing
process. For the complex pattern the resist tying happens more
than once in varying sizes as per the design.
•The fabric is dyed again as per the pattern and then washed
and dried.
(ref-6)
Multi-coloured tie and dyed fabric

5. Design characteristics:
 Colours: The colours that are most prominently used in
Bandhani are yellow, red, green, blue and black.
Generally bright and contrasting colours are used.
 Bandhani work results into a variety of symbols including
dots, waves, stripes and squares.
 Patterns: The patterns include Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali,
and shikari depending upon the manner the cloth has
been tied.
 The design include Ekdali (single knot), Trikunti (three
knots), Chaubandi (four knots), Dungar shahi (mountain
pattern), Boond (small dot with a dark center), Kodi
(tear drop shaped) and Laddu jalebi (swirl like pattern).
(ref-3)

Classification of Bandhej according to the process of
making:
A. Rolling the fabric and then tying it to resist it from
dyeing.
1. Laheriya
2. Mothra
B. Making knots on the fabric with the threads to resist it
from dyeing
1. Shikari
2. Ekdali

Laheriya: It is the basic design of tie and dye work.
• Famous in jodhpur, Jaipur, Udaipur, Nathdwara.
•Laheriya has come from word ‘laher’ , which means
waves of sea.
•The ‘laheriya’ tie and dye work pattern shows waves or
ripples, running diagonally on the fabric.
•In the making of laheriya, fabric is rolled and then tied
with threads, then it is dyed.
•Traditionally multicoloured laheriya was made.
•Now- a-days Laheriya is usually done using two colours
(initially red and yellow were used). These colours
occupy the alternate waves.
•Laheriya materials were used to make odhnis, turbans,
sarees, etc. Now-a-days salwar kameez are also made.
(ref-2)

Laheriya

Mothra: It is an another design of tie and dye work.
•Mothra is inspired by laheriya design, it can be best
described as double dyed laheriya.
•The word ‘moth’ means lentil, hence the name came as the
undyed area are about the size of a lentil.
•In the making of mothra, at first diagonal waves are created
with the resist (same process as of laheriya is followed),
then the original resists are removed and the fabric is re-
rolled and tied along the opposite diagonal.
•This results in a checkered pattern, with opposite diagonal
waves running across the cloth. (ref-5)

Mothra

Shikari: In Shikari bandhani, human and animal figures are
tie and dyed in vibrant colours.
Shikari

Ekdali: In Ekdali bandhani, in Rajasthan geometric pattern
like small squares, in different shades and clusters are used.
Mostly seen in Shikar and jodhpur.
Ekdali

Bandhej of different regions of Rajasthan.
The regions are:
1. Shekhawati region
2. Mewar region
3. Marwar region

Bandhej of Shekhawati Region
Tie and dye of this region is famous for Bajri Bandhej
which is very fine dots spread all over in a motif.
Use of earthly colours was more prominent like brown,
red, maroon, rust, yellow and black.
Motifs used were dungar shahi (geometrical shapes),
phool patti (floral designs used as border), phool jalebi,
kalli bel (diagonal lines with flowers spreaded all over),
hazara phool, bel patti, goraiya (bird). (ref-3)

Motifs of Shekhawati Region
Phool patti Phool jalebi Hazara phool

Bandhej of Mewar Region
Region of Mewar is famous for its Mewari turbans or
pagdi made of Bandhej fabric.
Kodi Bandhej (tear shaped) is a famous pattern dyed in
the region of Mewar.
Other motifs of Mewar region are chaos, laddu, mor
(peacock), dibia phool, heart bel, kalash, mothra, oogi
jaal and sangam border.
Commonly used colours are yellow, orange, red,
saffron, velvet. (ref-3)
Mewari turban

Motifs of Mewar region
Dibiya phool
Kalash Diamond
Oogi jaal Dhaari
Satbindu gol bandhej

Bandhej of Marwar Region
Geometric and figurative designs are used in the Bandhej
of Marwar region.
The craft is practiced by Khatri, Jaat and Muslim
community.
Motifs include dancing doll, haathi, sakhi mor, ashok
patti, bundi laddu, pan patta and sangam. (ref-3)
Products include odhna (dupatta), sarees, turbans (saafa) .

Motifs of Marwar Region
Dancing doll Sakhi mor

6. Products: Traditionally Sarees, kurta, chaniya cholis,
turbans were made. In addition to these, now-a-days
salwar kameez is also made.
7. Uses:
 Sarees with Leheriya patterns are usually worn for day time
ceremonies.
 Ghatchola lehengas & sarees are worn for occasions at
night.
 Bandhej dupattas with plain white salwar kameez are very
popular among young girls.
 Now-a-days simple Bandhani salwar kameez are an
everyday attire for women.
 Turbans are popular among men.

Turban
Odhani

Tie and dyed fabric

The cost is highest of Shekhawati region as compared to
the other two, because of the intricate dot bandhej
resulting in higher labour charges. Also, the intricate and
small designs increased the labour cost of the products.
So, the more is the intricate patterns, the more will be the
cost of the material.
(ref-2)

References:
1. https://strandofsilk.com/journey-map/rajasthan/tie-and-
dye/government-and-ngo-support (on 04.04.2020)
2. http://www.indiamarks.com/bandhani-indian-tie-and-dye/ (on
03.04.2020)
3. https://essence-journal.com/wp-
content/uploads/Volume_IX/Special_Edition_I/Documentation
-Of-The-Motifs-Used-In-Tie-And-Dye-Of-Rajasthan-
Bandhani.pdf (on 03.04.2020)
4. https://www.ohmyrajasthan.com/textile-work-of-rajasthan (on
03.04.2020)
5. http://www.industries.rajasthan.gov.in/content/industries/han
dmadeinrajasthandepartment/artandcraft/textilework/mothar
a.html# (on 06.04.2020)
6. http://www.dsource.in/resource/bandhani/process/bandhani-
process (on 04.04.2020)

Thank You

Tie and dye of Rajasthan

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