A brief view of some of the most common Dry processes applied on Garment to achieve various aesthetic effects. The point to keep in mind is that Garment dry processes are different from Garment wet processes. Usually, the processes are Whiskering, Sand Blasting, Grinding, Tying, Tagging, Distress, Hand Scrapping, Crinkles... I hope this will help you.. Thanks
2. WHAT IS GARMENT DRY
PROCESS(GDP)?
The processes which are applied in the dry condition
of the garments to achieve various aesthetic properties
without changing their construction are called
Garment Dry Process.
Garments achieve more fashionable look by applying
dry processes. Dry process is mainly done by hand or
mechanically. Dry process section maintains a process
flow-chart, which is discussed upnext:
3. WORKFLOW OF GARMENT DRY
PROCESS:
Whisker
↓
Scrapping
↓
Tacking
↓
Grinding
↓
Destroy/ Tearing
↓
Tie
↓
P.P Spray
↓
3D
5. TYPES OF WHISKERING:
There are two ways of whiskering:
Manual Whisker:
This whisker is done manually with the help of pattern. On denim
garments we have done it by abrasive paper. This whisker absorb the
color homogenously.
Laser Whisker:
This whisker is done by laser machine.
At First, design is made in the Photoshop or illustrator, then it is inserted
into the laser machine and
The intensity is fixed and imposed on the garments according to marking
and the indigo is burned.
After wash the burned indigo is removed and whisker is visible.
6. SCRAPPING:
Removing color from the specific part of surface of garment (denim) is
called scrapping. Here, fabric is scrapped with different tools in order
to get an fading effect.
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing
high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. Sand and
compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at
10-200 angle by hand spray pipe. Air compressor is started and
pressure to be maintained between 3 – 4 kg/sq.cm. The angle of sand
blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading
effect and higher the risk of fabric damage. Fading is done on pre-
marked areas.
7. TACKING:
In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the
help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get
contrast in shade of the garment. It is usually done at the edge area
by folding the garments. This process can be done by the tag gun,
plastic staple machine or manually.
The effect is visible after wash. In this case, the inner of the fold is
dark due to less exposure of rubbing and chemicals. Faded effect
comes on the folded parts.
8. GRINDING:
It is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running
against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. This
process is completely done at edges area.
9. DISTRESS/DESTROY/TEAR:
To rupture or tear the garment according to the buyers design is called
distress or destroy. One of the most popular distressing effects currently,
‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make
destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to
apply on desired area. It can also be done by laser machine. It can also be
achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is
to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp
yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique &
different than others.
10. TIE:
Tie Wash also known as crunch wash is very typical in high fashion
articles. The process is very simple but results to marvelous looks.
Garment is usually tied with white cotton strips and washed with
stones. The exposed portions got faded effects and a pattern of dark
to light patches appears on garment. Different patterns can be
formed by tying garment in different ways.
11. P.P SPRAY:
P.P means potassium per manganate. P.P sprayed onto desired areas
of garments and P.P oxidizes indigo color. Here, at first have to
sprayed P.P, then it should be neutralized to get final effect.
12. WRINKLE / CRINKLE/3D CRUSH
EFFECT:
Crinkle is the process by this we squeeze the garments at front and
back knee area. This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual
clipping of specific area. Resin (Formaldehyde free) being used for
achieving 3D effect ( 3 Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc. This process
can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin,
Catalyst, Silicone solution in right combination according to the fabric
strength & desired effect needed. After application of resin solution in
right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip
& back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it , it
should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must be
cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin
product manual.
If resin not cured properly, 3 D effect will not be permanent & can
cause skin irritation/rashes to the wearer.
14. RESIN APPLICATION:
Resin is used as various agent in textile section. It is used for 3d
crinkle, resin spot on the garments, making surface coating on
garments ,increase the hardness of fabric. Resin reacts with fiber and
makes bond with cellulose at high temperature. Then permanent
pleat is formed. The resin which we use that must be formaldehyde
free.
Resin should be applied at optimum level. Because, exceeding the
limit might
cause permanent damage to the fabric.
Resin should be applied according to fabric strength and
construction.
15. MECHANISM OF LASER BEAM:
The laser works by creating extensive heat. Within the focused
region, the material is subject to very intensive heating within a very
small region. Laser energy is absorbed as heat and the material
rapidly heats leading to melting as a phase change from solid to
liquid takes place. The liquid heats very rapidly, boiling and releasing
vapors another phase change takes place from liquid to gas. Thus
fading effect created.
16. MACHINES/APPARATUS USED IN
GDP:
Abrasive paper
Hand Scraping machine
Whiskering pattern
Grinding machine
Destroying machine
3D Crinkle machine
Normal Crinkle machine
Pen grinding machine
Tagging machine
Oven dryer
Heat setting machine
Conveyer oven
Sprayer
Laser machine
Air dummy
Tie ( Net, Socks , Rope , Cable etc. )
Chalk
Pencil
