PRESENTED BY
MD RAKIB HASAN(20)
RAKIB ULLAH EMON(21)
MD GOLAM RABBY(19)
Special thanks to our honorable teacher
ASST.PROF ALI AZAM ROKON
Pabnatextile engineering college
DENIM DRY WASHING PROCESS
THE WASHING PROCESSES WHERE THE GARMENTS ARE KEPT
DRY/NOT NEEDED TO WET TO DEVELOP THE WASHING EFFECT.
SOME DRY PROCESSES:
WHISKERING
LASER WHISKERING
HAND SCRAPPING
WRINKLES AND 3D WRINKLES
TAGGING OR PICKING
PP SPRAY ETC.
WHISKERING
WHISKERING
It is the process of creating crease line around the crotch.It is also knows as
cat’s whisker. Whiskering is the first dry process and one of the most important
process in denim dry washing process.
Also used for
‘Knee whisker’(whiskers on the side of knees)
Honeycomb(crease mark on the back of the knee)
Whiskering is done on the basis of different design and pattern.
TECHNIQUES USED IN WHISKERING
INDUSTRIALLY DONE BY THESE
FOLLOWING TECHNIQUES,
LASER
SAND BLASTING
MACHINE SANDING
HAND SANDING
ABRASIVE RODS
LASER WHISKERING
LASER WHISKERING
It is another popular dry process in denim processing, and transfer of different
images/effect to denim garments is possible by using laser beams.
This process is done after the washing process. Different intensity of light is used
to get the desired design. Laser is produced by the combination of CO2 and DC
current.The indigo dyestuff is burned and is removed during the washing
process.The intensity and duration of exposure determines the final effect on the
fabric. The laser intensity must be chosen correctly not to damage the garments.
SPECIAL FEATURE OF LASER WHISKERING
FEATURES
It is a computer controlled process for denim fading;
This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots,
images, text or even pictures;
It is water free fading of denim
Being an automatic system, chances of human error are non considerable
Also called spray painting in denims;
This technique has relatively high cost
PROCESS OF LASER WHISKERING
THE PROCESS IS GIVEN BELOW :
First, the whiskering design is made by photoshop or illustrator
Design is transferred to laser machine
The intensity of laser light is selected
Laser light is imposed on the denim garments to get the design
After the wash the burned indigo is removed and the whisker is visible
OPERATING FLOW PATH OF EASY MARK SUPERVISOR SOFTWARE IS GIVEN BELOW :
OPEN —> IMPORT IMAGE —> OPEN FILE FOR INSERT DIAGRAM —> IMAGE SIZE —> SELECTION —> TOOLS —> POINTER ONLINE
—> POINTER ONLINE OFF —> PRINT.
CONFIGURE —> ADVANCE CONFIGURE —> ENABLE AUTOMATIC SELECTION —> OK.
CONFIGURE —> MASSAGE TABLE —> ADD (FRONT RIGHT, BACK RIGHT, FRONT BACK RIGHT) —> AFTER ADDING OK —> PRINT.
LASER WHISKERING IS DONE BY THIS PROCESSES.
HAND SCRAPPING
HAND SCRAPPING / SANDING : This dry process is applied after whiskering to
remove the color or fade specific area of the garments and it become very
important now a days.
Equipment used,
Abrasive paper ,
Air dummy ( horizontal ) ,
Gum tape
And hand is used .
This process is more used as sand blasting process is banned due to hazadous to
health.
PROCESS OF HAND SCRAPING
HAND SCRAPING PROCESS IS GIVEN BELOW :
First the garments is mounted on the air dummy and fitted into two
M.S. Pipe.
Both end of each pipe covered with rubber tube and tightened by
suitable clamping.
After inserting the garments then the dummy is filled with compressed
air as per required pressure.
While scraping with hand , pressure should be uniform.
Then sent to washing to get the desired effect.
3D WRINKLES
3D WRINKLE:It is one of the important finishing treatment on denim
garment which is applied after wet process. Bringing 3D CREASE effect
permanently on denim garments by treating with or without resins are
called 3D crinkle.
This process is done manually or semi autometically using resins like low
formaldihyde type resins which make crosslinks between cellulosic bonds
and when the fabric deforms or folds or losses its normal orientation , those
chemicals prevents the transformation to normal position and that causes
wrinkles or creases. Various supporting auxilliaries are used for better
penetration of resins and softeners used for softness.
TECHNIQUES USED FOR 3D WRINKLES
TECHNIQUES FOR 3D CRINKLE FINISH :
By 3D crinkle machine
By heat setting machine
By spray and chemical application cabinet with conveyer
By 3D wire crinkle machine
By 3D bendable leg or air dummy
By using clip
By garment crushing machine
By tying garments with air
But most commonly 3D wrinkles machine is used for industrial purpose.
3D WRINKLES PROCESS BY 3D WRINKLE
MACHINE
3D CRINKLE MACHINE :
• The machine consist of 6 heads and changeable leg distance .
• Both legs can work simultanously.
• It requires no chemicals for crinkle effect on denim.
PRECAUTIONS
PRECAUTIONS FOR 3D WRINKLE EFFECT WHEN RESIN IS
APPLIED :
If more resin is applied in a specific area , the garment may tear.
If resin applied more than one time , garment may tear.
If oven time is more , tear can occur.
If exposure time is more, tear may occur.
For more resins , garments can be so hard.
Unwanted spots can appear.
If more resin applied in pocket area ,then pocket may damage.
TAGGING
TAGGING OR TAG PINNING
Tagging or more commonly tag pinning is a very popular in fashion style in denim
garment now a days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the
help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get contrast.
Features
• Tagging is done at unwashed condition of garments.
• It is done by tag gun or plastic staple machine which binds or fold the edge of the
garments.
• Manually by niddle and thread.
• After wash the effect is visible.
• Sometimes it creates hole on the edge.
MACHINE USED
Usually tag pin machines are used to attach tag pins to garment. The
procedure is very simple and proceeds as; garment is folded on required area
and tacked through folds. Number of folds can be two to four or five in
regular in tacking. These tag guns are not especially designed for heavy folds
like we do in tacking so durability of the gun is a consistent problem. Also
broken needles of tag gun are issue for both operator and consumer.
Automated tacking machines are used more successfully in some units.
These machines are bit expensive but are far more efficient and secure than
tag guns.
MECHANISM
PROCESS MECHANISM OF TAGGING
This process is done by tagging small plastic tag pins to hold small gathers of
fabric around pockets, hips, seams and bottom hems to get strong contrast
due to less exposure of the folded parts to mechanical rubbing and chemicals.
Figure shows the tag pins on the waistband and on the pocket of the jeans.
After washing, the tags are snipped and colour contrasts and 3D effects are
obtained in these areas.
Variations are provided by using different lengths of tag pins. Using thick tags
leaves large holes on the fabric surface after the washing processes, on the
other hand, finer tags may break off during washing and the contrast
appearance may not be achieved.
TAGGING EFFECT/APPLICATION ON DENIM
Area of Application
This effect can be
designed any where on
the garment in
different styles. Most
favorite areas for
tacking are on
waistband, bottom
hems, back pocket and
front pocket corners
etc.
On front or back sides
of garment, tacking
can also designed
horizontal of vertical
patterns on full length
panel
PP SPRAY
PP SPRAY
This is the procedure of applying potassium permanganate as spray on the
washed areas of garments to give it a certain after effect after further
processing.
Features
Done on special areas of garments.
Used to create special effects after mechanical abrasion.
It is often done on denim, twill, poplin, corduroy fabrics.
It is done after the first wash.
Liquid potassium permanganate used.
PROCESS MECHANISM
Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a
bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing
about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a
sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast.
Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted
area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun
and air flled rubber dummy.
Potassium permanganate spray concentrations ranges
form .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to
required results and fabric.The garment is hanged in open
to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the
potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then
it is considered to ready for next process.
It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium
meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer.
PRECAUTION
PRECAUTION SHOULD BE FOLLOWED
BY OPERATOR:
It is very important to equip the
operator with gloves, gas mask and
gaggles.
Long time breathing in potassium
permanganate spray may cause
health complications so proper
preventive measures are to be taken
for this department.