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STUDY
DENIM SHRINKAGE &
EVALUATION
Mansoor Faiz Cheema
1 SHRINKAGE
The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or
garment. This dimensional change may be in a positive (growth) or negative (shrinkage)
direction for fabric length, width, and thickness. For a cotton fabric, shrinkage relates to the loss
of the length and/or width dimensions.
Shrinkage is a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by an application of a
force, energy, or a change in environment that either allows the goods to relax or forces the
fabric to move in a given direction. When yarns are woven into fabrics they are subjected to
considerable tensions, particularly in warp direction. In subsequent finishing processes such as
calendaring, this stretch may be increased and temporarily set into the fabric. The fabric is then
in a state of dimensional instability, subsequently when the fabric is thoroughly wetted it tends to
revert its more stable dimensions which results in the contraction of yarns. This effect is usually
greater in warp direction than in weft direction.
1.1 Types of shrinkage:
There are number of different causes of dimensional change. Some of which are
connected to one another. Relaxation shrinkage can affect any fiber type. Following types of
dimensional change are generally recognized.
 Hygral expansion
 Relaxation shrinkage
 Swelling shrinkage
 Felting shrinkage
Hygral expansion: It is a property of fabrics made from fibers that absorb moisture, in
particular fabrics made from wool. It is a reversible change in dimensions which takes place
when the moisture regain of a fabric is altered.
Relaxation shrinkage: It is the irreversible dimensional change accompanying the release of
fiber stresses imparted during manufacture which have been set by combined effect of time,
finishing treatments and physical restraints within the structure.
Swelling shrinkage: It results from swelling and de-swelling of the constituent fibers of a
fabric due to the absorption and desorption of water.
Felting shrinkage: It results from the frictional properties of component fibers which cause
them to migrate within the structure. This behavior is normally considered to be significant only
for fibers having scale on their surface such as wool.
Shrinkage and the cause of shrinkage can be further defined or broken down into two
different types:
 Construction shrinkage
 Processing shrinkage.
This means that shrinkage is affected by the construction parameters of the fabric, and it is
also affected by the forces applied in processing in the dyeing and finishing departments as well
as the apparel manufacturing facility.
1.2 Construction Shrinkage:
After cotton fabric is constructed on a knitting machine or weaving loom, it has inherent
characteristics based solely on the yarn construction variables used. These characteristics or
conditions affect various specifications including shrinkage. The type of shrinkage measured at
this point is defined as construction shrinkage. Construction shrinkage is defined as the amount
of dimensional change in a fabric based solely on the construction variables used to create the
fabric.
1.3 Processing Shrinkage:
All processing steps in a finishing and garment wet processing plant affect the
dimensions of a product. Some techniques have more impact than others. These steps create
processing shrinkage, which can be defined as the dimensional change that a process adds to or
removes from the construction shrinkage of a fabric. Length and width dimensions are both
affected, and the fabrics may either be stretched or consolidated. Most often, the length is
stretched and the width is reduced during finishing process. Some of this shrinkage is composed
of elastic shrinkage and can be easily recovered while some of the change in dimensions may not
be recovered, because the elastic limits of the fabric as constructed have been exceeded.
In today’s modern finishing plants, methods are used to attempt to overcome processing
shrinkage and reduce construction shrinkage. The dimensions of fabrics can become set while
they are deformed if they are subjected to a suitable process. Fibers that absorb water can be set
if they are deformed while in the wet state and then dried at those dimensions. Thermoplastic
fibers can be set if they are deformed at a comparatively high temperature and then allowed to
cool in the deformed state. The set may be temporary or permanent depending on the severity of
the setting conditions. During relaxation shrinkage it is temporary set that is released. It is
generally the case that deformation that has been set can be released by a more severe treatment
that than the setting treatment.
1.4 Factors affecting shrinkage:
There are many factors that relate to shrinkage. These include the
 Fiber type
 Yarn size and type
 Construction variables
 Wet processes
 Finishing procedures
 Apparel manufacturing techniques
 Garment care methods
Cellulosic fibers are not as easily stabilized as are thermoplastic synthetics, because they
cannot be heat set to attain stability. The comfort and overall appeal of cotton has resulted in
greater demand by the consumer and by usage in the textile industry. Therefore, the relaxation of
fabrics made with cotton fibers requires either mechanical and/or chemical means for
stabilization.
The manner by which fibers are oriented in a yarn will affect certain properties of the
fabric including shrinkage. Cotton singles yarns of high twist will usually yield higher shrinkage
values than yarns of lower twist levels and will certainly yield greater skewing or torqueing.
Different constructions can have significantly different shrinkage characteristics.
Finishing procedures may reduce or increase the dimensional stability of the fabric. If relaxation
dryers, compactors, and/or cross linking agents are used, then the residual shrinkage after wet
processing can be reduced
Figure 1.1
Apparel manufacturing processes often increase the level of shrinkage in a fabric. The
laying down of the layers for cutting and the physical manipulation of the panels in sewing are
examples of where shrinkage values can be increased. In fact, garments comprised of different
fabric constructions may have some panels relax with handling in cut-and-sew while other panels
may grow.
Garment care labeling and laundering practices will have a direct influence on shrinkage
performance. If the label calls for line or flat drying, then mostly elastic shrinkage will affect
performance.
In denim industry the shrinkage is the major problem. The excessive shrinkage level is
undesirable for the fabrics to be made into the garments and is usually controlled in finishing
processes.
1.5 Compressive shrinkage:
This is a mechanical finishing process that is used in denim industry. Compressive shrinkage is
defined as any operation performed to improve the fabric appearance or function by physical
manipulation, Steam or heat may be accompanied the physical manipulation; however chemicals
and other lubricants are seldom used. The method includes drying, compaction, and/or chemical
processes.
Fabric properties affected by the process are
 Luster
 Smoothness
 Softness
 Residual shrinkage
 Hand
In a few mills compressive shrinking of denim fabric is carried out in a separate range. A
heavy duty shrinkage machine is used for shrinking of denim fabric up to 14 – 17%.While others
use the integrated finishing range.
Integrated finishing and shrinkage:
In integrated finishing range finishing of denim fabric is carried out in a single range. In this
process the fabric is first passed through the brushing and singeing unit to remove the loose fluff
and lint from fabric surface and then padded to apply finish to the fabric. Many different
softeners and finishes are available which are suitable to denim fabric.
The fabric is then stretched by passing through two pulling devices and then skewed. After
skewing it is passed through the drying cylinders for partial drying of fabric. Subsequently the
fabric runs through a compressive shrinkage unit followed by drying and calendaring.
Sanforizing:
Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual shrinkage. The process forces the
yarns closer together and fabric becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of this the net residual
shrinkage reduces. The term Sanforized is a registered trademark and is used to market the fabric
that meets certain shrinkage specifications.
Fabric is passed through the sanforizer head followed by the steam heated cylinders used to set
the Sanforized or shrink fabric. The key to any compacter is head where the force is applied to
move the parallel yarns closer together. More length of fabric must be fed into the Head than the
delivered one.
A sanforizer actually uses a thick rubber blanket running against a steam heated cylinder.
This thick blanket goes over a small diameter roller which stretches the convex surface of
blanket. Fabric is passed outer the stretched blanket and the fabric and blanket come together in
contact with the steam heated cylinder. At that point the rubber surface contracts to its original
length and is forced to contract an additional amount as it forms the concave configuration of
heated drum ultimately the yarns in fabric become closed.
1.6 Parameters for process control:
The main parameters that affect the shrinkage level are
 Moisture
 Pressure between the roller and rubber belt
Due to the continuous stretching and relaxing of blanket, heat is generated. The blanket is
then cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric has been delivered through the unit. The
degree of shrinkage is controlled by the thickness of blanket. For better results the degree of
compactness is pre-determined which is done by characterizing the shrinkage behavior of fabric
by laundering. Degree of compacting should not exceed the degree of shrinkage.
2 SHRINKAGE EVALUATION
The shrinkage is evaluated by conducting the physical washing tests.
2.1 Construction Shrinkage
The following procedure is adopted for construction shrinkage measurement & evaluation;
 Samples are made of the fabric manufactured.
 The samples are marked with the help of AATCC standard scale with the help of textile
marker.
 The samples are over-locked to avoid fraying during washing.
 After marking samples are conditioned
 The samples are washed by three home launderings (3HL).
 After drying, samples are again conditioned.
 In the end, shrinkage is measured for both warp and weft dimensions.
Samples:
 25inch × 25inch
 Marked at 18inch × 18inch.
Conditioning of Samples:
 Temperature 21o
C ± 1o
C
 Relative humidity 65% ± 2%
 Time 4 hours before wash and 4 hours after wash
Machines used for 3HL
 Kenmore
 Vascator
Three home Laundering
Recipe:
Chemicals Quantity
Sodium per borate 1g/l
ECE 3.85 g/l
Liquid Detergent 45 ml
Conditions:
Temperature
40o
for stretchable denim
60o
for rigid denim
Time 67 min for every washing cycle
Procedure:
 Water and chemicals are loaded in the machine.
 Samples are also added.
 Then the machine is put into running position and samples are washed under the above
mentioned conditions.
 After one complete washing cycle fabric samples are unloaded and dried.
 Then the samples are again put into the machine and the whole procedure is repeated.
 After the completion of second cycle, the samples are again dried and the cycle is
repeated for the third time.
Shrinkage Test:
 After washing and conditioning the fabric samples are measured on marks with the help
of same scale.
 Shrinkage percentage is calculated in both warp and weft directions by using the formula:
Shrinkage % = Change in length × 100
Original Length
2.1.1 Shrinkage in Rigid and Stretch Denim
 Denim fabric without any stretch properties are known as rigid denim.
 Stretch denim fabrics have pronounced values of stretch. These are made up of the yarns
having elastomeric core.
Fabric
no.
Count
Fabric
Type
Denier+
draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
1 10 Ne
Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -13
Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -7.23 -24.84
2 14 Ne
Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -2 -12.3
Lycra 70 + 3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -3.7 -21.9
Table 2.1.1
Figure 2.1.1
Shrinkage (%) behaivior of Rigid n
Stretch Denim in warp
-8
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Rigid
Lycra
Shrinkage(%)
10 Ne
14 Ne
Figure 2.1.2
Conclusion:
By comparing the fabrics, it is concluded that stretch denim shrinks more than rigid denim,
as core-spun yarn undergo more tensions during yarn manufacturing and weaving of fabric.
So stretch denim tends to shrink more when it acquires relax state.
Shrinkage (%) behaivior between Rigid
n Stretch denim in Weft
-30
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
Rigid
Lycra
Shrinkage(%)
10 Ne
14 Ne
2.1.2 Shrinkage in Stretch Denim due to varying Picks per Inch
No. of
Observations
Count Denier+Draft Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
Warp Weft
1
10 lycra 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z-
twill -6.5 -23
10
spandex 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z-
twill -5 -22.13
10 lycra
slub 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z-
twill -4.12 -24.5
2
10 lycra 70+3.91 44
3/1 Z-
twill -5.37 -19.5
10
spandex 70+3.91 44
3/1 Z-
twill -4.5 -20.25
10 lycra
slub 70+3.91 44
3/1 Z-
twill -4.5 -22.5
Table 2.1.2
Figure 2.1.3
Shrinkage in Warp due to Picks per inch
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
40 Picks
per inch
44 Picks
per inch
Figure 2.1.4
Conclusion:
By varying the picks per inch in different stretch denim fabrics, shrinkage percentage is
varied. Due to Increase in no. of picks per inch, shrinkage percentage will decrease. Due to
more picks per inch, there will be less space for the yarns to relax after swelling that’s why
shrinkage decreases.
Shrinkage in weft by varying Picks per
inch
-30
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
40 picks
per inch
44 picks
per inch
2.1.3 Shrinkage due to varying Draft and Denier
Fabric
no.
Count
Denier+
draft
Picks
Weave
Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
1
10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23
10 Spandax 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -5 -22.13
10 Lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5
2
10 Lycra 40+3.24 40 3/1 Z twill -6.23 -20.5
10 Spandax 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.87 -18.75
10 Lycra slub 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.2 -18.77
Table 2.1.3
Figure 2.1.5
Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Draft+Denier
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10Lycra
10
Spandax
10Lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
70+3.91
40+3.24
Figure 2.1.6
Conclusion:
Denier and draft values directly affect the shrinkage behavior of stretch denim. More is the
draft values, more will be shrinkage. The level of stretch-ability of yarn depends on the given
draft and fabric made of highly stretched yarns will relax more and hence the shrinkage % of
fabric will increase as there are more tensions on the yarns.
Shrinkage (%) in Weft due to
Draft+Denier
-30
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
10Lycra
10
Spandax
10Lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
70+3.91
40+3.24
2.1.4 Shrinkage due to varying Weft Count
No. of
Observations
Count
Type of
Yarn
Denier +
Draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
Warp Weft
1
10
Single
Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.5 -23
Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -5 -22.13
Lycra
Slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.12 -24.5
2
14
Single
Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.1 -19.89
Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.4 -21.13
Lycra
Slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4 -21.5
Table 2.1.4
Figure 2.1.7
Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Weft
Count
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Lycra
Spandex
Lycra
Slub
Shrinkage(%)
10 Single
14 Single
Figure 2.1.8
Conclusion:
By comparing the fabrics having same construction (picks per inch) but different counts,
we concluded that coarser the yarn count more will be the shrinkage in fabric. Due to the
coarse yarn counts, there is more swelling in the yarns which tend to contract the fabric.
Shrinkage in weft due to Weft Count
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
Lycra
Spandex
Lycra
Slub
Shrinkage(%)
10 Single
14 Single
2.1.5 Shrinkage Due to varying Yarn Types
Trial No. Count
Fabric
Type
Denier+
draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
1
10 Ne
Cotton
lycra
70+3.91 40
3/1 Z
twill
-6.5 -23
2 Poly lycra 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z
twill
-6.1 -19.8
Table 2.1.5
Figure 2.1.9
Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Yarn
Type
-6.6
-6.5
-6.4
-6.3
-6.2
-6.1
-6
-5.9
Cotton lycra Poly lycra
Shrinkage(%)
Figure 2.1.10
Conclusion:
It is concluded that fabric made of cotton Lycra will shrink more than poly Lycra. This
is due to the reason that cotton has more affinity for the water than polyester so it will absorb
more moisture which results in more swelling of yarns; hence there is more shrinkage in fabric.
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Yarn
Type
-24
-23
-22
-21
-20
-19
-18
Cotton lycra Poly lycra
Shrinkage(%)
2.1.6 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Weave Type
No. of
Observations Count
Denier
+ Draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
(%)
Warp Weft
1
10 lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill
-6.5 -23
10
spandex
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill
-5 -22.13
10 lycra
slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill
-4.12 -24.5
2
10 lycra 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill
-5.4 -18.7
10
spandex
70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill
-4.7 -19.38
10 lycra
slub
70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill
-4 -21
Table 2.1.6
Figure 2.1.11
Shrinkage(%) in Warp due to Weave
Type
-8
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
3/1 Z-twill
2/1 Z-twill
Figure 2.1.12
Conclusion:
The results shows that stretch denim fabric worth 3/1 twill shrinks more than 2/1 twill
denim as 3/1 twill has loose structure and more spaces.
Shrinkage(%) in Weft due to Weave
Type
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
3/1 Z-twill
2/1 Z-twill
2.1.7 Shrinkage (%) due to Slub Yarns
Fabric
no.
Count
Denier+
draft
Picks
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
(%)
Warp Weft
1 10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23
2
10 Lycra
slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5
Table 2.1.7
Figure 2.1.13
Shrinkage (%) in warp in Lycra and lycra
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub
Shrinkage(%)
Figure 2.1.14
Conclusion:
Slub swells more when soaked in water. So due to more swellness, shrinkage in
yarn will be more.
Shrinkage (%) in weft in Lycra and Lycra
slub
-25
-24.5
-24
-23.5
-23
-22.5
-22
10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub
Shrinkage(%)
2.2 PROCESSING SHRINKAGE
The following procedure is adopted for process shrinkage measurement & evaluation;
 Samples are taken as for construction shrinkage.
 For finished fabric, 3HL washing is done at same conditions as in construction shrinkage.
 Studying washing conditions like temperature, washing cycles and washing types, 3HL is
done.
 Time is studied in Industrial washes.
Conditions:
Temperature 40o
C, 49o
C, 60o
C
Time 25 min, 40 min, 55 min
INDUSTRIAL WASHES:
Rinse Wash:
Recipe
Chemicals Quality
Detergent (CP) 100ml
Softener (Belfacin) 200ml
Enzyme (Aquazyme) 50ml
Acid 400ml
Conditions:
Time 15min
Temperature 60~70o
C
pH 6~7
Stone Wash:
Recipe
Chemical Quantity
Old Stone 5 kg
New Stone 5kg
Enzyme ( Valumax ) 150kg
Acid 400ml
Water 120 gallon
Conditions
Time 30~40 min
Temperature 60o
C
pH 5~6
Bleaching:
Recipe
Chemicals Quantity
Water 150litre
Bleaching Powder Bleaching Liquid (H2O2) 300g 500ml
Conditions:
Time 10min
Temperature 50o
C
Neutralization:
Recipe
CHEMICALS QUANTITIES
Sodium Meta bisulphite (Na2S2O5) 350ml
Water 150 liter
Tint Wash:
Recipe:
CHEMICALS QUANTITIES
Direct Dye 0.5gm
Salt 1kg
Softener (NI) 60ml
Water 150 liter
Conditions:
Time 10min
Temperature 70o
C
FABRICS USED FOR PROCESSING SHRINKAGE
Fabric No. Warp Count Weft Count Ends/inch Picks/inch Weave Type
F1 9.2 14/1+30D 64 48 2/1 RHT
F2 6.3 16/1+40D 68 44 2/1 RHT
F3 9 9/1+70D 64 45 2/1 RHT
Table 2.2
2.2.1 Shrinkage (%)due to varying Washing Time
Fabric No.
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Time (min)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
F1
10.3 25 -0.9 -5.3
10.5 40 -1.5 -5.5
10.7 55 -1.8 -5.8
F2
11.4 25 -0.44 -10.1
11.5 40 -1 -10.5
11.8 55 -1.5 -10.9
F3
10.8 25 -2.4 -4.3
11 40 -2.8 -4.5
11.3 55 -3.9 -5
Table 2.2.1
Figure 2.2.1
Figure 2.2.2
Conclusion:
The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing time’s shows by increasing the washing
time, shrinkage % tends to increase.
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing time
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
25 40 55
Time (min)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to washing time
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
25 40 55
Time (min)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
2.2.2 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Temperature
Fabric
No.
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Temperature
(o
C)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
F1
10.5 40 -0.4 -5.8
10.6 49 -1 -6.1
10.9 60 -1.9 -6.3
F2
11.6 40 -1.4 -10.8
11.7 49 -1.7 -11.4
11.8 60 -2 -11.9
F3
10.7 40 -2.4 -2.6
10.9 49 -2.6 -3.3
11 60 -2.9 -5
Table 2.2.2
Figure 2.2.3
Figure 2.2.4
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing
Temperature
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
40 49 60
Temperature (o
C)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing
Temperature
-14
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
40 49 60
Temperature (oC)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
2.2.3 Shrinkage (%) due to different Washing Cycles
Fabric
No.
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Washing
Cycle
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
F1
10.4 1 HL -0.37 -2.38
10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1
F2
11.53 1 HL -0.62 -4.69
11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4
F3
10.8 1 HL -1.5 -1.73
10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3
Table 2.2.3
Figure 2.2.5
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing
Cycles
-3
-2.5
-2
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
1 HL 3 HL
Washing Cycle
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
Figure 2.2.6
Conclusion:
The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing cycles shows that shrinkage % tends to
increase by increasing no. of washing cycles.
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing
Cycles
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
1 HL 3 HL
Washing Cycles
Shrinkage(%) F1
F2
F3
2.2.4 Shrinkage (%)due to Washing Type
Fabric
No.
Weight
(oz per
sq. yd)
Washing Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
F1
10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1
10.7 Industrial Wash -1.8 -5.8
F2
11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4
11.8 Industrial Wash -1.9 -11.8
F3
10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3
11.3 Industrial Wash -3.9 -5
Table 2.2.4
Figure 2.2.7
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing Types
-4.5
-4
-3.5
-3
-2.5
-2
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
3 HL Industrial Wash
Washing Types
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
Figure 2.2.8
Conclusion:
As industrial washing compose of many washing types and cycles with varying washing
conditions, so sometimes the shrinkage values are higher for industrial wash.
Shrinkage (%) in weft in Washing type
-14
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
3 HL Industrial Wash
Washing Type
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
2.2.5 Shrinkage % due to different Industrial Washing Types
First Wash:
First wash may include any of these washing types depending upon desired look and
properties as demanded by the customer:
 Rinse Wash
 Rinse and Stone wash
 Rinse and Stone wash with softener
 Rinse and Stone wash with tint.
 Rinse and Stone Wash with tint and softener.
FABRIC 1:
Washing
Type
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
Rinse Wash 10.2 0.4 -4
Rinse + Stone
Wash
10.5 0 -6.6
Rinse + Stone
Wash +
Softener
10.6 -1.4 -7.9
Rinse +Stone
+ Tint Wash
10.5 -1.3 -7.8
Rinse + Stone
+ Tint Wash +
Softener
10.5 -1.5 -7.9
Table 2.2.5
Figure 2.2.9
Second wash:
After first wash, any one or more of the following washes can be done according to the
look and properties demanded by the customer. The second wash includes:
 Rinse and Bleach wash
 Bleach wash with Neutralization
 Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint wash
 Bleach wash and Neutralization with Softener
 Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint and Softener
Shrinkage in Fabric Samples due to
Different washing types
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
2
RinseWash
Rinse+Stone
Wash
Rinse+Stone
Wash+Softner
Rinse+Stone+Tint
Wash
Rinse+Stone+Tint
Wash+Softner
Washing Types
Shrinkage(%)
Warp
Weft
Fabric 1:
Washing Type
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
Rinse + Bleach Wash 9.9 -1.3 -4.4
Bleach Wash + Neutralization 10 -1.6 -4.3
Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint 10.3 -1 -5.5
Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Softener 10.4 -1.1 -5.4
Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint + Softener 10.5 -1.3 -6
Table 2.2.6
Figure 2.2.10
Conclusion:
Shrinkage behavior is different for the different industrial washes depending the
procedure and combination of washes under which fabric go through. The different washing
types depend upon the customer requirement.
Shrinkage (%) in Fabric Sample due to Different Washes
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Rinse + Bleach W
ash
Bleach + Nuetralization
Bleach + Nuetralization + Tint
Bleach + Nuetralization + Softener
Bleach + Nuetralization + Tint + Softener
Shrinkage(%)
Warp
Weft
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Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

  • 2. 1 SHRINKAGE The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or garment. This dimensional change may be in a positive (growth) or negative (shrinkage) direction for fabric length, width, and thickness. For a cotton fabric, shrinkage relates to the loss of the length and/or width dimensions. Shrinkage is a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by an application of a force, energy, or a change in environment that either allows the goods to relax or forces the fabric to move in a given direction. When yarns are woven into fabrics they are subjected to considerable tensions, particularly in warp direction. In subsequent finishing processes such as calendaring, this stretch may be increased and temporarily set into the fabric. The fabric is then in a state of dimensional instability, subsequently when the fabric is thoroughly wetted it tends to revert its more stable dimensions which results in the contraction of yarns. This effect is usually greater in warp direction than in weft direction. 1.1 Types of shrinkage: There are number of different causes of dimensional change. Some of which are connected to one another. Relaxation shrinkage can affect any fiber type. Following types of dimensional change are generally recognized.  Hygral expansion  Relaxation shrinkage  Swelling shrinkage  Felting shrinkage Hygral expansion: It is a property of fabrics made from fibers that absorb moisture, in particular fabrics made from wool. It is a reversible change in dimensions which takes place when the moisture regain of a fabric is altered. Relaxation shrinkage: It is the irreversible dimensional change accompanying the release of fiber stresses imparted during manufacture which have been set by combined effect of time, finishing treatments and physical restraints within the structure. Swelling shrinkage: It results from swelling and de-swelling of the constituent fibers of a fabric due to the absorption and desorption of water.
  • 3. Felting shrinkage: It results from the frictional properties of component fibers which cause them to migrate within the structure. This behavior is normally considered to be significant only for fibers having scale on their surface such as wool. Shrinkage and the cause of shrinkage can be further defined or broken down into two different types:  Construction shrinkage  Processing shrinkage. This means that shrinkage is affected by the construction parameters of the fabric, and it is also affected by the forces applied in processing in the dyeing and finishing departments as well as the apparel manufacturing facility. 1.2 Construction Shrinkage: After cotton fabric is constructed on a knitting machine or weaving loom, it has inherent characteristics based solely on the yarn construction variables used. These characteristics or conditions affect various specifications including shrinkage. The type of shrinkage measured at this point is defined as construction shrinkage. Construction shrinkage is defined as the amount of dimensional change in a fabric based solely on the construction variables used to create the fabric. 1.3 Processing Shrinkage: All processing steps in a finishing and garment wet processing plant affect the dimensions of a product. Some techniques have more impact than others. These steps create processing shrinkage, which can be defined as the dimensional change that a process adds to or removes from the construction shrinkage of a fabric. Length and width dimensions are both affected, and the fabrics may either be stretched or consolidated. Most often, the length is stretched and the width is reduced during finishing process. Some of this shrinkage is composed of elastic shrinkage and can be easily recovered while some of the change in dimensions may not be recovered, because the elastic limits of the fabric as constructed have been exceeded. In today’s modern finishing plants, methods are used to attempt to overcome processing shrinkage and reduce construction shrinkage. The dimensions of fabrics can become set while
  • 4. they are deformed if they are subjected to a suitable process. Fibers that absorb water can be set if they are deformed while in the wet state and then dried at those dimensions. Thermoplastic fibers can be set if they are deformed at a comparatively high temperature and then allowed to cool in the deformed state. The set may be temporary or permanent depending on the severity of the setting conditions. During relaxation shrinkage it is temporary set that is released. It is generally the case that deformation that has been set can be released by a more severe treatment that than the setting treatment. 1.4 Factors affecting shrinkage: There are many factors that relate to shrinkage. These include the  Fiber type  Yarn size and type  Construction variables  Wet processes  Finishing procedures  Apparel manufacturing techniques  Garment care methods Cellulosic fibers are not as easily stabilized as are thermoplastic synthetics, because they cannot be heat set to attain stability. The comfort and overall appeal of cotton has resulted in greater demand by the consumer and by usage in the textile industry. Therefore, the relaxation of fabrics made with cotton fibers requires either mechanical and/or chemical means for stabilization. The manner by which fibers are oriented in a yarn will affect certain properties of the fabric including shrinkage. Cotton singles yarns of high twist will usually yield higher shrinkage values than yarns of lower twist levels and will certainly yield greater skewing or torqueing. Different constructions can have significantly different shrinkage characteristics. Finishing procedures may reduce or increase the dimensional stability of the fabric. If relaxation dryers, compactors, and/or cross linking agents are used, then the residual shrinkage after wet processing can be reduced
  • 5. Figure 1.1 Apparel manufacturing processes often increase the level of shrinkage in a fabric. The laying down of the layers for cutting and the physical manipulation of the panels in sewing are examples of where shrinkage values can be increased. In fact, garments comprised of different fabric constructions may have some panels relax with handling in cut-and-sew while other panels may grow. Garment care labeling and laundering practices will have a direct influence on shrinkage performance. If the label calls for line or flat drying, then mostly elastic shrinkage will affect performance. In denim industry the shrinkage is the major problem. The excessive shrinkage level is undesirable for the fabrics to be made into the garments and is usually controlled in finishing processes. 1.5 Compressive shrinkage: This is a mechanical finishing process that is used in denim industry. Compressive shrinkage is defined as any operation performed to improve the fabric appearance or function by physical
  • 6. manipulation, Steam or heat may be accompanied the physical manipulation; however chemicals and other lubricants are seldom used. The method includes drying, compaction, and/or chemical processes. Fabric properties affected by the process are  Luster  Smoothness  Softness  Residual shrinkage  Hand In a few mills compressive shrinking of denim fabric is carried out in a separate range. A heavy duty shrinkage machine is used for shrinking of denim fabric up to 14 – 17%.While others use the integrated finishing range. Integrated finishing and shrinkage: In integrated finishing range finishing of denim fabric is carried out in a single range. In this process the fabric is first passed through the brushing and singeing unit to remove the loose fluff and lint from fabric surface and then padded to apply finish to the fabric. Many different softeners and finishes are available which are suitable to denim fabric. The fabric is then stretched by passing through two pulling devices and then skewed. After skewing it is passed through the drying cylinders for partial drying of fabric. Subsequently the fabric runs through a compressive shrinkage unit followed by drying and calendaring. Sanforizing: Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual shrinkage. The process forces the yarns closer together and fabric becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of this the net residual shrinkage reduces. The term Sanforized is a registered trademark and is used to market the fabric that meets certain shrinkage specifications. Fabric is passed through the sanforizer head followed by the steam heated cylinders used to set the Sanforized or shrink fabric. The key to any compacter is head where the force is applied to move the parallel yarns closer together. More length of fabric must be fed into the Head than the delivered one. A sanforizer actually uses a thick rubber blanket running against a steam heated cylinder. This thick blanket goes over a small diameter roller which stretches the convex surface of
  • 7. blanket. Fabric is passed outer the stretched blanket and the fabric and blanket come together in contact with the steam heated cylinder. At that point the rubber surface contracts to its original length and is forced to contract an additional amount as it forms the concave configuration of heated drum ultimately the yarns in fabric become closed. 1.6 Parameters for process control: The main parameters that affect the shrinkage level are  Moisture  Pressure between the roller and rubber belt Due to the continuous stretching and relaxing of blanket, heat is generated. The blanket is then cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric has been delivered through the unit. The degree of shrinkage is controlled by the thickness of blanket. For better results the degree of compactness is pre-determined which is done by characterizing the shrinkage behavior of fabric by laundering. Degree of compacting should not exceed the degree of shrinkage.
  • 8. 2 SHRINKAGE EVALUATION The shrinkage is evaluated by conducting the physical washing tests. 2.1 Construction Shrinkage The following procedure is adopted for construction shrinkage measurement & evaluation;  Samples are made of the fabric manufactured.  The samples are marked with the help of AATCC standard scale with the help of textile marker.  The samples are over-locked to avoid fraying during washing.  After marking samples are conditioned  The samples are washed by three home launderings (3HL).  After drying, samples are again conditioned.  In the end, shrinkage is measured for both warp and weft dimensions. Samples:  25inch × 25inch  Marked at 18inch × 18inch. Conditioning of Samples:  Temperature 21o C ± 1o C  Relative humidity 65% ± 2%  Time 4 hours before wash and 4 hours after wash Machines used for 3HL  Kenmore  Vascator
  • 9. Three home Laundering Recipe: Chemicals Quantity Sodium per borate 1g/l ECE 3.85 g/l Liquid Detergent 45 ml Conditions: Temperature 40o for stretchable denim 60o for rigid denim Time 67 min for every washing cycle Procedure:  Water and chemicals are loaded in the machine.  Samples are also added.  Then the machine is put into running position and samples are washed under the above mentioned conditions.  After one complete washing cycle fabric samples are unloaded and dried.  Then the samples are again put into the machine and the whole procedure is repeated.  After the completion of second cycle, the samples are again dried and the cycle is repeated for the third time. Shrinkage Test:  After washing and conditioning the fabric samples are measured on marks with the help of same scale.  Shrinkage percentage is calculated in both warp and weft directions by using the formula: Shrinkage % = Change in length × 100 Original Length
  • 10. 2.1.1 Shrinkage in Rigid and Stretch Denim  Denim fabric without any stretch properties are known as rigid denim.  Stretch denim fabrics have pronounced values of stretch. These are made up of the yarns having elastomeric core. Fabric no. Count Fabric Type Denier+ draft Picks/inch Weave Type Shrinkage (%) Warp Weft 1 10 Ne Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -13 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -7.23 -24.84 2 14 Ne Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -2 -12.3 Lycra 70 + 3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -3.7 -21.9 Table 2.1.1 Figure 2.1.1 Shrinkage (%) behaivior of Rigid n Stretch Denim in warp -8 -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 Rigid Lycra Shrinkage(%) 10 Ne 14 Ne
  • 11. Figure 2.1.2 Conclusion: By comparing the fabrics, it is concluded that stretch denim shrinks more than rigid denim, as core-spun yarn undergo more tensions during yarn manufacturing and weaving of fabric. So stretch denim tends to shrink more when it acquires relax state. Shrinkage (%) behaivior between Rigid n Stretch denim in Weft -30 -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0 Rigid Lycra Shrinkage(%) 10 Ne 14 Ne
  • 12. 2.1.2 Shrinkage in Stretch Denim due to varying Picks per Inch No. of Observations Count Denier+Draft Picks/inch Weave Type Shrinkage Warp Weft 1 10 lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z- twill -6.5 -23 10 spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z- twill -5 -22.13 10 lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z- twill -4.12 -24.5 2 10 lycra 70+3.91 44 3/1 Z- twill -5.37 -19.5 10 spandex 70+3.91 44 3/1 Z- twill -4.5 -20.25 10 lycra slub 70+3.91 44 3/1 Z- twill -4.5 -22.5 Table 2.1.2 Figure 2.1.3 Shrinkage in Warp due to Picks per inch -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 10lycra 10 spandex 10lycra slub Shrinkage(%) 40 Picks per inch 44 Picks per inch
  • 13. Figure 2.1.4 Conclusion: By varying the picks per inch in different stretch denim fabrics, shrinkage percentage is varied. Due to Increase in no. of picks per inch, shrinkage percentage will decrease. Due to more picks per inch, there will be less space for the yarns to relax after swelling that’s why shrinkage decreases. Shrinkage in weft by varying Picks per inch -30 -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0 10lycra 10 spandex 10lycra slub Shrinkage(%) 40 picks per inch 44 picks per inch
  • 14. 2.1.3 Shrinkage due to varying Draft and Denier Fabric no. Count Denier+ draft Picks Weave Type Shrinkage (%) Warp Weft 1 10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23 10 Spandax 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -5 -22.13 10 Lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5 2 10 Lycra 40+3.24 40 3/1 Z twill -6.23 -20.5 10 Spandax 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.87 -18.75 10 Lycra slub 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.2 -18.77 Table 2.1.3 Figure 2.1.5 Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Draft+Denier -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 10Lycra 10 Spandax 10Lycra slub Shrinkage(%) 70+3.91 40+3.24
  • 15. Figure 2.1.6 Conclusion: Denier and draft values directly affect the shrinkage behavior of stretch denim. More is the draft values, more will be shrinkage. The level of stretch-ability of yarn depends on the given draft and fabric made of highly stretched yarns will relax more and hence the shrinkage % of fabric will increase as there are more tensions on the yarns. Shrinkage (%) in Weft due to Draft+Denier -30 -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0 10Lycra 10 Spandax 10Lycra slub Shrinkage(%) 70+3.91 40+3.24
  • 16. 2.1.4 Shrinkage due to varying Weft Count No. of Observations Count Type of Yarn Denier + Draft Picks/inch Weave Type Shrinkage Warp Weft 1 10 Single Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.5 -23 Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -5 -22.13 Lycra Slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.12 -24.5 2 14 Single Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.1 -19.89 Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.4 -21.13 Lycra Slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4 -21.5 Table 2.1.4 Figure 2.1.7 Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Weft Count -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 Lycra Spandex Lycra Slub Shrinkage(%) 10 Single 14 Single
  • 17. Figure 2.1.8 Conclusion: By comparing the fabrics having same construction (picks per inch) but different counts, we concluded that coarser the yarn count more will be the shrinkage in fabric. Due to the coarse yarn counts, there is more swelling in the yarns which tend to contract the fabric. Shrinkage in weft due to Weft Count -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0 Lycra Spandex Lycra Slub Shrinkage(%) 10 Single 14 Single
  • 18. 2.1.5 Shrinkage Due to varying Yarn Types Trial No. Count Fabric Type Denier+ draft Picks/inch Weave Type Shrinkage (%) Warp Weft 1 10 Ne Cotton lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23 2 Poly lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.1 -19.8 Table 2.1.5 Figure 2.1.9 Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Yarn Type -6.6 -6.5 -6.4 -6.3 -6.2 -6.1 -6 -5.9 Cotton lycra Poly lycra Shrinkage(%)
  • 19. Figure 2.1.10 Conclusion: It is concluded that fabric made of cotton Lycra will shrink more than poly Lycra. This is due to the reason that cotton has more affinity for the water than polyester so it will absorb more moisture which results in more swelling of yarns; hence there is more shrinkage in fabric. Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Yarn Type -24 -23 -22 -21 -20 -19 -18 Cotton lycra Poly lycra Shrinkage(%)
  • 20. 2.1.6 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Weave Type No. of Observations Count Denier + Draft Picks/inch Weave Type Shrinkage (%) Warp Weft 1 10 lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.5 -23 10 spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -5 -22.13 10 lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.12 -24.5 2 10 lycra 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill -5.4 -18.7 10 spandex 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill -4.7 -19.38 10 lycra slub 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill -4 -21 Table 2.1.6 Figure 2.1.11 Shrinkage(%) in Warp due to Weave Type -8 -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 10lycra 10 spandex 10lycra slub Shrinkage(%) 3/1 Z-twill 2/1 Z-twill
  • 21. Figure 2.1.12 Conclusion: The results shows that stretch denim fabric worth 3/1 twill shrinks more than 2/1 twill denim as 3/1 twill has loose structure and more spaces. Shrinkage(%) in Weft due to Weave Type -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0 10lycra 10 spandex 10lycra slub Shrinkage(%) 3/1 Z-twill 2/1 Z-twill
  • 22. 2.1.7 Shrinkage (%) due to Slub Yarns Fabric no. Count Denier+ draft Picks Weave Type Shrinkage (%) Warp Weft 1 10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23 2 10 Lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5 Table 2.1.7 Figure 2.1.13 Shrinkage (%) in warp in Lycra and lycra -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub Shrinkage(%)
  • 23. Figure 2.1.14 Conclusion: Slub swells more when soaked in water. So due to more swellness, shrinkage in yarn will be more. Shrinkage (%) in weft in Lycra and Lycra slub -25 -24.5 -24 -23.5 -23 -22.5 -22 10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub Shrinkage(%)
  • 24. 2.2 PROCESSING SHRINKAGE The following procedure is adopted for process shrinkage measurement & evaluation;  Samples are taken as for construction shrinkage.  For finished fabric, 3HL washing is done at same conditions as in construction shrinkage.  Studying washing conditions like temperature, washing cycles and washing types, 3HL is done.  Time is studied in Industrial washes. Conditions: Temperature 40o C, 49o C, 60o C Time 25 min, 40 min, 55 min INDUSTRIAL WASHES: Rinse Wash: Recipe Chemicals Quality Detergent (CP) 100ml Softener (Belfacin) 200ml Enzyme (Aquazyme) 50ml Acid 400ml Conditions: Time 15min Temperature 60~70o C pH 6~7
  • 25. Stone Wash: Recipe Chemical Quantity Old Stone 5 kg New Stone 5kg Enzyme ( Valumax ) 150kg Acid 400ml Water 120 gallon Conditions Time 30~40 min Temperature 60o C pH 5~6 Bleaching: Recipe Chemicals Quantity Water 150litre Bleaching Powder Bleaching Liquid (H2O2) 300g 500ml Conditions: Time 10min Temperature 50o C
  • 26. Neutralization: Recipe CHEMICALS QUANTITIES Sodium Meta bisulphite (Na2S2O5) 350ml Water 150 liter Tint Wash: Recipe: CHEMICALS QUANTITIES Direct Dye 0.5gm Salt 1kg Softener (NI) 60ml Water 150 liter Conditions: Time 10min Temperature 70o C FABRICS USED FOR PROCESSING SHRINKAGE Fabric No. Warp Count Weft Count Ends/inch Picks/inch Weave Type F1 9.2 14/1+30D 64 48 2/1 RHT F2 6.3 16/1+40D 68 44 2/1 RHT F3 9 9/1+70D 64 45 2/1 RHT Table 2.2
  • 27. 2.2.1 Shrinkage (%)due to varying Washing Time Fabric No. Weight (oz per sq. yd) Time (min) Shrinkage % Warp Weft F1 10.3 25 -0.9 -5.3 10.5 40 -1.5 -5.5 10.7 55 -1.8 -5.8 F2 11.4 25 -0.44 -10.1 11.5 40 -1 -10.5 11.8 55 -1.5 -10.9 F3 10.8 25 -2.4 -4.3 11 40 -2.8 -4.5 11.3 55 -3.9 -5 Table 2.2.1
  • 28. Figure 2.2.1 Figure 2.2.2 Conclusion: The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing time’s shows by increasing the washing time, shrinkage % tends to increase. Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing time -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 25 40 55 Time (min) Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3 Shrinkage (%) in weft due to washing time -12 -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0 25 40 55 Time (min) Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3
  • 29. 2.2.2 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Temperature Fabric No. Weight (oz per sq. yd) Temperature (o C) Shrinkage % Warp Weft F1 10.5 40 -0.4 -5.8 10.6 49 -1 -6.1 10.9 60 -1.9 -6.3 F2 11.6 40 -1.4 -10.8 11.7 49 -1.7 -11.4 11.8 60 -2 -11.9 F3 10.7 40 -2.4 -2.6 10.9 49 -2.6 -3.3 11 60 -2.9 -5 Table 2.2.2
  • 30. Figure 2.2.3 Figure 2.2.4 Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing Temperature -4 -3 -2 -1 0 40 49 60 Temperature (o C) Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3 Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing Temperature -14 -12 -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0 40 49 60 Temperature (oC) Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3
  • 31. 2.2.3 Shrinkage (%) due to different Washing Cycles Fabric No. Weight (oz per sq. yd) Washing Cycle Shrinkage % Warp Weft F1 10.4 1 HL -0.37 -2.38 10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1 F2 11.53 1 HL -0.62 -4.69 11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4 F3 10.8 1 HL -1.5 -1.73 10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3 Table 2.2.3 Figure 2.2.5 Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing Cycles -3 -2.5 -2 -1.5 -1 -0.5 0 1 HL 3 HL Washing Cycle Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3
  • 32. Figure 2.2.6 Conclusion: The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing cycles shows that shrinkage % tends to increase by increasing no. of washing cycles. Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing Cycles -12 -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0 1 HL 3 HL Washing Cycles Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3
  • 33. 2.2.4 Shrinkage (%)due to Washing Type Fabric No. Weight (oz per sq. yd) Washing Type Shrinkage (%) Warp Weft F1 10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1 10.7 Industrial Wash -1.8 -5.8 F2 11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4 11.8 Industrial Wash -1.9 -11.8 F3 10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3 11.3 Industrial Wash -3.9 -5 Table 2.2.4 Figure 2.2.7 Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing Types -4.5 -4 -3.5 -3 -2.5 -2 -1.5 -1 -0.5 0 3 HL Industrial Wash Washing Types Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3
  • 34. Figure 2.2.8 Conclusion: As industrial washing compose of many washing types and cycles with varying washing conditions, so sometimes the shrinkage values are higher for industrial wash. Shrinkage (%) in weft in Washing type -14 -12 -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0 3 HL Industrial Wash Washing Type Shrinkage(%) F1 F2 F3
  • 35. 2.2.5 Shrinkage % due to different Industrial Washing Types First Wash: First wash may include any of these washing types depending upon desired look and properties as demanded by the customer:  Rinse Wash  Rinse and Stone wash  Rinse and Stone wash with softener  Rinse and Stone wash with tint.  Rinse and Stone Wash with tint and softener. FABRIC 1: Washing Type Weight (oz per sq. yd) Shrinkage % Warp Weft Rinse Wash 10.2 0.4 -4 Rinse + Stone Wash 10.5 0 -6.6 Rinse + Stone Wash + Softener 10.6 -1.4 -7.9 Rinse +Stone + Tint Wash 10.5 -1.3 -7.8 Rinse + Stone + Tint Wash + Softener 10.5 -1.5 -7.9 Table 2.2.5
  • 36. Figure 2.2.9 Second wash: After first wash, any one or more of the following washes can be done according to the look and properties demanded by the customer. The second wash includes:  Rinse and Bleach wash  Bleach wash with Neutralization  Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint wash  Bleach wash and Neutralization with Softener  Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint and Softener Shrinkage in Fabric Samples due to Different washing types -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0 2 RinseWash Rinse+Stone Wash Rinse+Stone Wash+Softner Rinse+Stone+Tint Wash Rinse+Stone+Tint Wash+Softner Washing Types Shrinkage(%) Warp Weft
  • 37. Fabric 1: Washing Type Weight (oz per sq. yd) Shrinkage % Warp Weft Rinse + Bleach Wash 9.9 -1.3 -4.4 Bleach Wash + Neutralization 10 -1.6 -4.3 Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint 10.3 -1 -5.5 Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Softener 10.4 -1.1 -5.4 Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint + Softener 10.5 -1.3 -6 Table 2.2.6 Figure 2.2.10 Conclusion: Shrinkage behavior is different for the different industrial washes depending the procedure and combination of washes under which fabric go through. The different washing types depend upon the customer requirement. Shrinkage (%) in Fabric Sample due to Different Washes -7 -6 -5 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 Rinse + Bleach W ash Bleach + Nuetralization Bleach + Nuetralization + Tint Bleach + Nuetralization + Softener Bleach + Nuetralization + Tint + Softener Shrinkage(%) Warp Weft